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Archive: Decadent Experiences

Yes, you're in Europe to learn, but it's a vacation! Have you soaked in a spa? Slept in satin sheets? Gotten a scalp massage? Had a mud bath? Broke your budget for a luxury experience that was a g-g-g-g-good deal? Go ahead, tell us. What fun spots or experiences can you recommend?


In the Dax area in southwestern France, there's a wonderful restorative for weary travelers: the mineral springs spa ("Thellasotherapie") at Salies de Bearn.

The pools are housed in an historic building from the 1930s (although there's been a spa at the site for two centuries). Inside are two large pools filled with comfortably hot water about 5 ft deep. Along the sides and overhead are jets and waterfalls of varying pressure. By moving from one area to another, you can get each part of your body massaged, from neck and shoulders to bottoms of your feet. There are two swim-against-the-current jets. There's an outdoor sunbathing area (open in summer) and three indoor tanning beds. (Just five minutes feels great; do use sunscreen.) There's also a steam room — the hottest and most mentholated one I've ever experienced.

Your admission ticket (about $7) includes use of same-sex locker rooms and a key to a private locker. There are toilets, showers, mirrors, and hair dryers in the locker rooms. Although families with children are allowed, in general the pools are quiet and peaceful places full of French pensioners getting therapy for sore joints. You can sign up for an optional light massage (15 to 90 minutes; extra fee). Proper swimming attire required. We brought our own towels; don't know if the spa rents them. It helps to wear flipflops between locker room and pools.

After your spa visit, stroll one block to the historic Hotel du Parc (on your left as you exit the spa). Check out the central lounge with tiered balconies. This room is leased to filmmakers as a set; one glance will show why. Have a hot chocolate or glass of wine at the bar or eat at the sunny glass-walled cafe.

Then, take a walk through Salies de Bearn, a beautiful medieval village nestled along the river.
C.
Seattle, WA   USA   05/30/01


If you want to truly indulge yourself, go to Baden-Baden, check into the Brenner's Park Hotel and Spa, get a nice massage and visit the Roman baths, get all dressed up, eat a fabulous dinner at the hotel restaurant, and top off the evening at the most beautiful casino in the world!
ts
  USA   04/24/01


I stayed at the Grandhotel Praha in Tatranska Lomnica, Slovakia in October, 2000. It is in the forest at the base of Lomnicky Stit (Peak), which you can ascend by the ski lift nearby (picture taking a gondola up the face of Half Dome in Yosemite).

The hotel, built in 1905, was the place royalty went to vacation. It has that old-world charm you don't often find. Although not restored, it is in good enough shape that you wouldn't want it to be. The finest leather chairs adorn the sitting room, where smart Germans get more than their mark's worth of atmosphere. The fireplace was built to please kings and queens. The wood paneling and live organ music and attendant tuxedoed staff cater to you. The Tatran Beer is excellent and robust.

The sauna was so hot, 5 minutes was all I could last without showering in cold water and re-entering. I lasted maybe 25 minutes of the hour I booked. The massage that followed was great, even though only 15 minutes long. But it was only $1.40. The sauna was $1.00 for the hour. In off-season October, the hotel was $27. I actually felt good about buying a T-shirt for $10 to remember it all by. But the Tatras are just spectacular!
Ken
Fullerton, CA   USA   04/17/01


The Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni is the nicest hotel that I have ever encountered! It is the only five-star hotel in the tiny town of Bellagio on Lake Como in northern Italy. The natural beauty of a pre-alpine lake surrounded by soaring mountains is breathtaking by day and by night. Some have compared it to Lake Tahoe in northern California, but I feel that Lake Como is in a class by itself.

The hotel is old but with updated facilities, gorgeous, opulent, and romantic. Ask for a room facing the lake. I believe that the cheaper rooms (full buffet breakfast included) start at US$230 or so (see http://www.villaserbelloni.it/pag2.htm). You won't be disappointed!
Michelle
LA but left heart in SF, CA   USA   03/26/01


Create your own decadence wherever you are.

Pick a really comfortable hotel, maybe waterfront (Sitges, Spain and Kusadasi, Turkey come to mind), forget the sightseeing, get some champagne and spend a day with just each other. It's good use of a rainy day, a good break in the middle of a vacation, and helps your marriage a lot.

In the Alps, carefully scout out some space in a meadow for some afternoon delight. (My lovely lady and I are in our 50's. We're probably more likely to be laughed at than arrested.)
Doug
Chester, VA   USA   03/14/01


I lived for 4 years near Frankfurt. I've been back to visit my German friends 11 times in the last 15 years. Here are my 2 favorite spa towns; the train will take you from Frankfurt to either one within an hour.

First is the nearest to Frankfurt: Bad Nauheim. The lake and spa are excellent and the dance clubs at night are also great. After all it's where Elvis Presley lived while stationed there.

In Bad Soden/Salmunster, just west of the Bad Nauheim area, the mineral baths and dance cafes are among the best I've found around the Frankfurt area. The restaurants are great and it has a wide variety of Zimmers (rooms) for rent as well as grand hotels like the Hotel Betz, St George and Zum Heller. The Konig river runs through town making for great romantic walks in the evening after a good meal.

Both places are relatively inexpensive as they are places the Germans go for vacations. And I've found them great for my days of break between travels.
Wally Roberts
Seven Points, Tx   USA   03/12/01


The Le Meriden Villon Hotel and Spa in Vilnius, Lithuania was amazing. It's about 15km north of Vilnius proper, set on acres and acres of birch/pine forest with 2 private lakes, floating bar, excellent spa, gym, sauna...too many perks to list. On top of that, like most establishments in Lithunaia, the staff was extremely friendly and multilingual. Their French restaurant was superb and deftly mixed Lithuanian and French cuisine. My wife and I totally enjoyed this decadent hotel. Like all Le Meriden hotels, this place was pure luxury.
JJurkynas
Chicago, IL   USA   02/16/01


AMSTERDAM! I was shocked and horrified in the most wonderful way.
Marcus
SAN DIEGO, CA   USA   02/14/01


In Baden-Baden, the Roman Irish spa experience is something every traveler must try out. I luxuriated there last September and cannot wait to go back. We're headed to Ireland next month and darn, but I don't see a Roman-Irish bath listed anywhere...
Joan
chicago, IL   USA   02/07/01


The Blue Lagoon in Iceland is certainly worth a trip. A thermal pool is a great way to relax at the end of a European visit and my wife, Mary, and I had a cozy swim to end our trip to Iceland.
Stephen Craig
Worcester, Ma   USA   01/14/01


For our 1st wedding anniversary, my wife and I spent a wonderful evening in the Chief O'Neils Hotel in Smithwick Village of Dublin, Ireland. Even though we have lived in Dublin for months, this was a hidden but very modern hotel experience. We splurged on a suite. The room was enormous with a huge king bed, modern lighting and art, a huge garden balcony and a great CD player sound system with complimentary CD. The creme de le creme was the huge Jacuzzi tub in the center of the coolest and most modern bathroom we had ever seen. Bubble bath is included!

Chief O'Neils provides breakfast (full Irish or continental) in bed upon request. We also checked out about an hour later than the 12noon time limit and no one cared!

While pricey, the Smithwick Village area of Dublin is a hidden treat, in the city centre (15-min. walk from Guiness Brewery and Temple Bar) Go for the 'suite' experience and stay for a ride up the Chimney, Irish music museum, tour of the Jameson distiller and lunch at Kelly and Ping's. An awesome modern Irish experience!
Pat
San Francisco via Dublin, CA   USA   01/08/01


I must add my vote for the baths in Baden-Baden. After nearly 3 weeks of traveling, we rolled into Baden-Baden late in the evening. As an afterthought, we decided to go to the baths. We took in the Caracalla baths not really knowing what to expect, except what we read in Rick's book.

It was pure heaven for our tired bodies. The indoor pools are wonderful; the outdoor pools are better. The "river," the neck waterfalls, the "cauldron" — each is relaxing and stimulating at the same time. Moving from hot to hotter sauna upstairs, then dumping the "artic bucket" on you is an experience I would go back for anytime.

Please, please, please don't think twice about the nudity in the upstairs area. Sitting naked in a sauna with people the age of your grandparents will quickly make you forget any guilty thoughts or self-consciousness. Overall, this was the most unexpected pleasure of the trip.
PSlater
CR, IA   USA   12/11/00


My favorite decadent experience was when I had a local fling while in Italy. So enthralled with each other in this brief interlude, we found ourselves kissing in St. Peter's Square in Rome. Suddenly a monk (you could tell by his robe) came up and shook his finger at us, then gestured toward the cathedral with hands clasped in prayer. We got the message, but I have to say, how many people get scolded by a monk for kissing in the shadow of the Vatican? It was sinfully fun!
A Texas traveler
  USA   12/07/00


Showing at London's Whitehall Theatre (across from Trafalger Square) through February, 2001 is one of the weirdest stage performances imagined. Featuring two guys from Australia, "Puppetry of the Penis" is an adventure in "the ancient Australian art of genital origami." As the program states this is "two men, two dicks, no pants." A smile a minute and lots of screams from the mostly female audience. Though truly an art form show I'd suggest not taking the kids. A sneak preview is at www.puppetryofthepenis.com.
Glenn & Wendi
Salt Lake City, UT   USA   11/11/00


Albania! Stop by any family in Elbasan, Albania, and you will be welcomed like lost son or daughter. The food seems never-ending, but stay away from the Raki.
Todd
Cutlerville, MI   USA   11/10/00


Sitting in Bofingers in Paris, at midnight, gorging on oysters and drinking good champagne. Cost as much as a dinner, but oh, the feeling.
Nina
San Francisco, CA   USA   09/12/00


Baden Baden: Indulge yourself. Try both baths.

Everyone working at both spas speaks passable English, and their main goal is to see that you have a comfortable, enjoyable experience. Don't be afraid to ask stupid questions. I had to be shown how the lockers work! (It's simple — change in the locking changing room, then put your stuff in the locker on the other side. Your spa pass goes in the door and you take the key with you. Strap it to your ankle. If you paid for the massage at the old spa, the massage ticket attaches to the key strap just fine.)

Play and luxuriate in the Caracalla spa. Try both the outdoor pools. The tour buses unload in the mornings, so by 2:00 the place is yours. Wander upstairs into nakedland for an hour of quiet — saunas, tanning, whirlpools, foot spas.

The next day, try the Roman-Irish baths. Keep your voice down, follow the signs, and enjoy. Splurge on the massage — it leaves you tingly. Don't leave without taking a nap in the nap room — the attendant wraps you in warmed sheets and lays you down in a dark, silent room.

You'd be surprised how quickly you get over being naked. And also at how relaxing it is.

  USA   08/29/00


a 300 ft. ravine. The bathroom was the size of a normal room and the bedroom was as big as an apartment. The restaurant in the Paradore was the best experience, however. We feasted on pumpkin soup, incredible beef, fresh olives and a bottle of local wine. During dinner, a talented acoustic guitar player serenaded us with traditional Spanish music.
Ashley
Tampa, FL   USA   07/17/00


Afternoon tea at the Basil Hotel in London. It is located on Basil St., a short two-block street very close to Harrods. It is not elegant, but more real, I think. It seems to be populated by English women of a certain age wearing tweed. There are soft couches and big overstuffed chairs covered in red and yellow paisley. Tea is served on coffee tables covered with white cloths. There are all the traditional tea goodies — salmon sandwiches, cucumber sandwiches, clotted cream and scones. It is a great place to spend a rainy, winter afternoon. One of my favorite things to do in London.
Willene
St. Cloud, MN   USA   06/06/00


I got this hour-long seven-dollar massage in prague by a licensed massuese. It had to be the most relaxing thing i have ever done in my life for seven dollars. The girl was very beautiful too!
fejj emarf
atlanta,    USA   05/26/00


Several things come to mind...

At the Chinese Garden in Munich you can get amazing rotisserie chicken, pomme frites (french fries) and a Maas (large stein) of fresh very cold beer for about $15US — talk bout pigging out!

In Baden-Baden the Freiderich Spa is worth every dime. Do the "whole thing" and you'll not regret it! Roman baths, massage, the quiet sleep room...trust me, all of the kinks will be gone and you'll feel about 20 years younger.

In Paris we took the "Eiffel Tower at Sunset" tour. It was expensive, but we visited the Tower at sunset (very romantic), then had dinner aboard one of the boats on the Seine (the meal was superb, and so was the wine), and we danced to the music of a great combo. After the cruise we got a guided tour of many of the beautiful sights of Paris at night and then went to the Lido for the midnight show. By early morning (2:30 or so) when we got back to our hotel we were exhausted, but agreed it was a heck of a way to end our stay in Europe.
Jim Shucart
St. Louis, MO   USA   05/11/00


Croatia is the place to go in the Dalmation Islands. There you have it all: sun, seafood, great prices and friendly people whose second language is English. The ancient islands date back to Roman rule and are filled with history. Clear water beaches and fun to be had. Take an overnight cruise to Italy if you fancy a change.
George Gibbs
Buffalo, NY   USA   04/19/00


While wandering through Venice last July, slurping up delicious gelato, my traveling companion and I wandered into a small piazza and found some comfy stairs to sit on. While we were eating, a musician began to set up his "show" on the steps across the piazza. For two hours he played gorgeous classical guitar pieces, while we sat there, watched the crowds pass by, and soaked up the late afternoon sunlight and music. Much to our chagrin, the guitarist was eventually run off by a policeman. It was a completely unplanned, but serendipitous, back door moment, and still one of my all-time favorite memories. Some of life's most decadent experiences are free!
Kimberly Wannall
Charlotte, NC   USA   04/14/00


Even though our family usually stays in budget hotels while traveling, we still occasionally sample life at a five-star hotel by having lunch or dinner there. You get to take in the ambience of the hotel without spending a small fortune on a room. Lunch is usually relatively inexpensive but you still get the wonderful service that is accorded to the registered guest.
KMB
Lafayette, CO   USA   04/02/00


I have been researching hot springs in Italy! So far I have found several, which are developed as resort areas in Montecatini Terme and Bagno Vignoni, and the only undeveloped one I have found so far is in the south of Italy, in an island off Sicily, called Vulcano, where you can bathe in volcanic hot sea water.
Debbie Cousins
Willow Springs, MO   USA   04/01/00


Dinner in the Red Bar at the Sacher Hotel in Vienna. I chose the price fixe menu which was expensive but worth it. I told the maitre d' that my grandparents had come from Vienna & I wanted a special meal during my stay. Even dining alone, I was treated wonderfully. I kept a journal & wrote down everything I ate, & when I asked the maitre d' if I could look at the menu again to copy down my choice as a record of my meal, he brought me an old menu as a souvenir. Expensive but worth every schilling.
Jennifer
Seattle, WA   USA   03/03/00


Nothing like dinner at Cibreo Trattoria behind the main restaurant in Florence. The same food and wine for 1/2 the price. There is nothing like it.
Steve
ft lauderdale, fl   USA   01/21/00


Celebrate your 25th wedding anniversary walking around Venice...for a week!
Jay & Teri
Waupaca, WI   USA   11/19/99


Sipping Bellinis at the Gritti Palace overlooking the Grand Canal in Venice!
Dana
Bridgewater, CT   USA   11/04/99


The spas in Baden-Baden! We took a 3-week, 3500-mile trip this summer, so we had no time to relax. From Paris, we took a short drive to Baden-Baden on our way back to Frankfurt. One night and a day in Baden-Baden relaxing at the thermal spas was a relaxing, therapeutic, and hedonistic end to our vacation. There are two spas, one nude and one not...take your pick.
Nancy
Pollock Pines , CA   USA   10/06/99


Sachertortes in Austria!
Harvey
  USA   09/23/99


Decadence for me is staying in Brugge at the Hansa Hotel, eating mussels and drinking raspberry beer. I'm making a special side trip next month on my way to Paris just for the expensive pleasure of it.
Gregory
Seattle, WA   USA   08/27/99


Decadent does not have to be expensive or exclusive. Vernazza is my idea of decadence. Our inexpensive apartment looked right over the main/only street. There was nothing to do but eat pizza, compare the two gelato shops at least twice a day, and swim in the clear, calm harbor. The other towns are nice, but a few "do nothing" days in Vernazza is my idea of a reward.
Gary
Hanford, CA   USA   08/18/99


I also enjoy afternoon tea while in London and like to experience different venues. The Savoy serves a lovely one in their beautiful room, with piano music, beautiful china and linens. It is not as crowded as the Ritz, costs about 19 pounds (about $32). You may even have seconds...terrific shrimp finger sandwiches were my weakness. Quite civilized and filling enough to get you through a night at the theatre afterwards.
Andrea
San Diego,    USA   07/29/99


It was such a treat having dinner on the Eiffel Tower at the Altitude 95 restaurant. We made reservations by internet (www. tour-eiffel.fr) for 9:00 so we could enjoy the sunset. Our table was right against the window, facing the Trocadero. We went for the fixed menu, about 250FF per person, which included tax and tip. We had our choice of starters; my friend chose the seafood dish which was actually a huge platter of ice mounded with shellfish of all kinds...unbelievable. We both had wonderful filet mignon in truffle jus, and creme brulee. The colors of the sky as the sun set, then the glittering lights as the monuments lit up were spectacular. We felt like royalty. With wine, our total bill came out to less than $90. Amazing value, though not a budget choice!
Andrea
San Diego, CA   USA   07/29/99


For my mother and me, a decadent experience was having tea at The Ritz Hotel in London. Two months in advance, we made our reservations for the 5:00 seating (via The Ritz web site). Tea cost 24.50 ($40) and you are served in the premier dining room (The Palm Court) on linen tablecloths with the good china. It's dressy; most people wore suits. The staff wears "morning coats" (tails) and is very professional. They didn't even blink an eye when my mother spilled her coffee! You get unlimited tea/coffee, great finger sandwiches (salmon, cucumber), scones with clotted cream, and delectable desserts. It doesn't sound like much, but it definitely fills you up. I know there are other places for tea in London that are less expensive. But for a truly elegant experience, it can't get any better than The Ritz!
Erin
Montclair, NJ   USA   06/08/99


The baths in Baden-Baden are a delightful experience even for a country boy from conservative Kansas. You must try both to have a well-rounded experience.
Randy
Hutchinson, Ks   USA   06/02/99


Rick, thanks so much for your great Ireland book - we found it helpful. One suggestion: In Dingle, Co. Kerry, we came across a wonderful natural therapy centre called Lamh Iomlane Teo in the old Coast Guard Cottage. We had a wonderful massage and sauna on a rainy afternoon that precluded other diversions. It was decadent indeed. It's definitely worth checking out when you're in Dingle! (I think they're on the web somewhere...)
Christine
  USA   05/12/99


For a great show in Paris...you must stop at "The Crazy Horse". O.K. - it is a "strip joint" by American standards, but it's more like a comedy/musical performance. There are dancers, singers and comedians and the entire show lasts about 2 - 2 1/2 hours. It's a bit pricey (about $40 to get in, but less if you sweet-talk the doorman). It really was a great time!
Lisa
MN   USA   05/05/99


In Paris go to the Paris Mosquee (pronounced moskay) for a turkish bath experience that you won't believe. Called the Hamman, it caters to men and women on opposite days of the week. This is a communal experience with women of all ages, sizes and shapes, naked and in swimsuits, wandering from room to room. The sauna rooms get hotter and hotter with cool tubs to dip into. There are cushions to sit on and women were lounging all around. There is also exfoliation called gommage and massage at the end. Highly recommended for an offbeat bit of another culture.
Tina
Seattle, wa   USA   05/01/99


In Perugia, Italy, we were delighted to find Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) on TAP in the cafes! WOW!!! Combined with the experience of having freshly made chocolates from the Baci factory... we were in heaven.
Ron van Thiel
Menlo Park, CA   USA   03/13/99


Try the sauna on one of the top floors of the Hotel Olumpia in Tallinn, Estonia. It provides a wonderful view of the Old Town of Tallinn while enjoying a cold Estonian beer.
Peter Matonis
Idaho Falls, ID   USA   03/07/99


This is to add to my comment about Budapest spas. A friend who lives in Budapest took me to a great, inexpensive one- it's Szechenyl Bath across from the huge park that — surprise! — has a statue of George Washington. Check — there are separate men's and women's days. Be ready for the mother of all massages.
Jean Sharpe
Lake Oswego, Or   USA   03/07/99


We were sightseeing in the Lake Lucerne area of Switzerland, had been walking the entire day, and it was quite hot. As we walked along the lake toward our hotel at dinner time, one of us recalled that our train pass would also get us on a lake ferry. We had dinner (at extra cost, but well worth it) on the ferry (a 1910 refurbished paddle wheeler). The sun was just setting, and it was a 2 - 3 hour lake cruise that we will never forget. It was all just perfect, and happened by accident. Planning is good, too, but long live serendipity.
Roger Uhlich
New York, NY   USA   02/26/99


I dont' know if this is considered a decadent experience, but I thought it was the most peaceful/spiritual part of my trip. If you make it to Florence make sure you grab a bottle of wine and catch a sunset while sitting on the steps of the Piazza San Michelangelo. There you will find a spectacular view of Florence while sitting in the company of artists, students, backpackers and locals. It's a bit of a walk out of the central part of the city, but it's well worth it!

  USA   01/28/99


For one-of-a-kind experiences in Switzerland, go to Gimmelwald and do the cable car bungee jump and/or canyoning (register for both in Interlakken - TI has info). They are both lots of fun.

If in Haarlem (Netherlands), try relaxing by spending an afternoon at Sauna Sauna. They have a sauna, Turkish Baths and a heated pool. It's around 20 guilders, 'no frills' and seems to be popular with the locals.
Ted Long
Raleigh, NC   USA   01/25/99


The turkish baths in Budapest are great- but the best part are the massages. These are REAL massages! I paid $3 entrance to baths and $7 for an hour's massage by an amazon lady who made all travel kinks disappear.
Jean Sharpe
Lake Oswego, Or   USA   01/06/99


While my husband commenced on a mission to play every golf course in Ireland, I went and had a facial in Kilkenney. The facialists are required to have extensive training, she was the only young career woman I met. She was interesting and interested, the facial wiped a weeks travel off my face, and they included eyelash dyeing in the price ($30.00). Wouldn't have missed it.

One other thing, in Ireland they have a bazillion shades of red hair dye. You'll never duplicate it again, but it was great while it lasted!
Betheny Winkler
Kingwood, TX   USA   12/18/98


I did the Friderich (? old roman) bath in Baden Baden and it was great. If you have glasses, wear them - on a chain/strap to keep them on. Even though they'll end up wet/fogged at different times, you don't want to miss all the architecture. Also, you can pay extra at Baden Baden Roman baths for a massage - I recommend it! Great time.
Kathleen Kelly
Saint Louis, MO   USA   12/10/98


Though we visited many of the great natural and cultural wonders of the Continent, the high point for our 16-year-old daughter was running off a cliff in the Alps - tandem paragliding in Interlaken, Switzerland. Balmer's hostel there arranges many such "adventure" activities. My daughter may grow to appreciate the Van Goghs, the Residenz, David, etc., if you ask her now about the trip the first thing you will hear about in the paragliding!
jgh
Plymouth, MN   USA   12/01/98


Finland-yes on a Finnair tour-snowmobiling in the wilderness, riding with reindeer, and sledding with huskies.
betty wittels
tucson, az   USA   11/28/98


Like Rick says, you have to experience a Turkish bath! It begins when you leave your shoes at the door for rubber slippers. Next, you remove your clothes and put on a little cloth. You then head to the steam room. Next you are off to another room where you rinse yourself off prior to getting lathered up, rubbed with a loofah mitten and massaged by experts who seem to have the perfect touch. After rinsing again, you're done. Hours later, you can sit around, have wonderful Turkish tea and socialize with friends. I skipped the marble pool, but the beauty and tradition of a Turkish bath are enough reason to do it once in your life. All this for the bargain price of $7 in Cappadocia. It was the best $7 plus $1 tip I ever spent in my life!
Michelle Fujiwara
Seattle, WA   USA   11/23/98


You want to have fun? Go to Monterrosso in the Cinque Terre, rent a paddleboat with a slide, and go topless as you paddle the boat around. Make sure you go down the slide at least once. Sounds weird, but it is a fun and memorable experience!
no name needed
  USA   11/15/98


In Reutte, on the German /Austrian border, there is a gliderport, where for about $30 you can soar for 45 minutes above the ruins of a medieval castle. The gliders are pulled down the runway on a cable by a big motor, so there's no towplane noise. Lots of fun!

Also, try the summertime luges in Austria. I tried one that was almost one kilometer long. It was so fast that the trees next to the concrete track have foam pads on them. Try not to get behind a dad with young child though. You won't be able to satisfy your need for speed. Both of the above tips are Rick Steve recommendations. Just thought I'd let everyone know that they are indeed "worth the visit."
Mark Mellander
Freestone, CA   USA   11/07/98