Rick Steves' France, Belgium & Netherlands: 2001
Please share any ways we can improve or fix this guidebook. Are there recommendations in this book that disappointed you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
Paris
A friend and I stayed at the Hotel Valadon, listed in Rick's books, for
four nights in September and loved it! Great location - right around the
corner from the Rue Cler - reasonably priced, really nice, well lighted
bathroom and congenial owner. Fellow guests were also happy and very friendly.
Rick's books were always discussed at breakfast! We found every one of the
French people we encountered to be pleasant, polite, and friendly. We visited
the roof top observatory at the Samarataine (not sure if this is correct
spelling) Department Store, and really enjoyed the view. Lunch there was
quite good also. I am anxious for a second, longer visit to Paris and to
see more of France.
Judith Beck <email>
Perkasie, PA USA 12/27/01
Tides in Normandy
Addition to Steve from Tulsa's 12/17 note about Normandy: The tides in the
English Channel (La Manche in French) are much, much higher and come in
a lot faster than in most places in the world (such as the West Coast of
the US). If you are lucky enough to be at Omaha Beach on a good sand castle
building day, keep a very close eye on your surroundings, or you may find
yourself wading waist deep to get back to shore! (Yes, the voice of experience
speaks here....)
Mary from Oregon
USA 12/22/01
Hotel, Other tips re Paris, Bayeux, Annecy
Paris — Great, reasonably priced hotel in Latin Quarter, one block from Metro:
Hotel St. Jacques. Great little Moroccan place between the hotel and the
metro stop: Dromoderie Gourmand or something like that (sorry my French
is not good!). Bayuex — Nice, inexpensive hotels: Hotel Mogador (GREAT owner!),
Hotel Notre Dame (ask for view of cathedral). D-Day Beach tour trip: schedule
your trip during LOW tide (ask). We went during high tide and were very
disappointed because there was very little beach exposed. It makes a BIG
difference! We went with Normany Tours and thought they did a good job.
Annecy: Most beautiful city I have ever seen anywhere on Earth! A day there
may be enough, but beautiful place just to wander around.
Steve <email>
Tulsa, OK USA 12/17/01
Most effective D-Day sight
Normandy D-Day beaches: Rick doesn't mention the "Cinema Circulaire" (360-degree
cinema) at Arromanches. It was highly recommended by our French hosts. We
visited a number of the D-Day museums and the Cinema Circulaire was by far
the most effective presentation. It has more original D-Day film (remember
that in those days movie cameras were wind-up and they could take only a
minute at a time) than any other film I've seen, mixed in with modern scenes
shot from helicopters to give you a perspective.
Mary from Oregon
USA 12/12/01
Rick's book and Normandy
We have recently returned from a trip to France, visiting Paris, the Loire
and Normandy all using Rick's great book. We didn't find the Parisian's
rude at all - if you're polite on the whole people will be polite back to
you! Just like America really! In Normandy, we actually stayed at La Caillerie
(www.lacaillerie.com) a tip from Rick's Graffitti wall. What a lovely central
position for visiting the Normandy beaches, Mont St Michel, Dinan, Bayeux,
Honfleur and Caen!! The house is slap bang in the middle of the countryside
- just in the position where the Allies during the war had a 'hard time'
- apparently they fought around La Caillerie for 8 days!! Apart from the
history of the place, the rooms were great, comfy beds, clean, spacious
and even better - the hosts! Samantha, her french partner Lionel and Sam's
mum Norma were there to answer all our questions, direct us to the beaches
and tell us all the best 'back door' places to eat. Our whole trip was superb
-visit France it's great!
Alexandra Deal <email>
NY, NY USA 12/11/01
Email access near rue cler
The Cyber World C@fe at 20, rue de l'Exposition (just down the street from
Restaurant La Serre) has inexpensive internet access (15 Frs for 15 minutes)
with American keyboards. It's a bit smokey, but handy to rue Cler.
Steve Barnard <email>
Jenison, MI USA 12/06/01
France/Benelux compliments
Rick's France/benelux book was a real help. I traveled with his book and
a Frommers. Rick's info was more accurate and his hotel advice saved me
alot on much nicer places. Great book/ fun read.
Alice Stehlin <email>
Tampa, FL USA 12/04/01
Bad Hotel of Bayeaux
If you visit Normandy, you have to visit Bayeaux! The Bayeaux Tapestry is
fantastic! But don't stay at Le Maupassant Cafe, the "Bad Hotel of Bayeaux".
The room smelled like an old, full ashtray, the bed was the Grand Canyon
of "Deep Valley" beds (bring a ladder to assist in climbing out), the bathtub
had not been cleaned since the previous visitors had used it and hot water
flowed into the tub only long enough for the first user to get soapy. We
had paid for 2 nights in advance, as they had demanded, and when we announced
at 10 in the morning our intention to not stay the second night, they refused
to refund our payment for the second night. As we attempted to calmly negotiate
with them on the matter, they screamed at us and suddenly could no longer
understand nor speak English. Revenge was sweet, however, as our credit
card company did not require us to pay! Ha!
Richard Scott <email>
Estacada, OR USA 12/03/01
D-Day landing beaches tour
I just met somebody travelling with your book. It appears that our company "Bus Fly Tours" (Bayeux) doesn't provide English guided tours to the D-Day
landing beaches. It is not true! Our guides are experienced and speak English..
Please check our website : www.busfly.com or join one of our tours...
Delphine <email>
Bayeux, FR 11/26/01
[Editor's Note: The 2001 edition of France, Belgium & the Netherlands lists Bus Fly Excursions as a tour company, offering English-speaking 4-hour tours of the D-Day Beaches and Mont St. Michel. E-mail: info@busfly.com.]
Rude people
I only encountered one rude person in Paris - the ticket lady at the Eiffel
Tower. For the life of me, I couldn't find an ATM anywhere, so I was low
on cash. After waiting in line to pay for the Tower, I handed over my credit
card. She wrinkled her nose, sniffed at me and told me that they DO NOT
take credit cards and summarily dismissed me. Just like that! Thank goodness
there was a couple from Michigan (Laurie & Gary) in front of me and they
very generously paid my way. Bless their hearts. They saved my afternoon.
Babe <email>
St. Petersburg, FL USA 11/23/01
Dutch Museums
After a year long planning, last June I took my 15 year old son to Europe
for the first time. A highlight of our trip was visiting our Dutch relatives
in northwest corner of the Netherlands. While most people think of the Netherlands
as Dutch, our family is Friesian. Through the Dutch Tourism web site we
found great information was available on line for almost every museum in
the Netherlands. Our relatives took us to the Fries Museum (Turfmarkt 11)
in the city of Leeuwarden. Along with the benefit of showing us the 2000
year history of the area and of Friesan culture which is our family heritage,
the museum contains a wonderful art gallery of the Dutch masters - without
the crowds of people. We got up close to view the paintings. I would encourge
travellers to the Netherlands to get out of the large cities into the small
cities and villages and explore the local history.
Timothy Dykstra <email>
Buffalo, NY USA 11/23/01
Comments on the France/Paris guidebooks
We loved your guidebooks (France & Paris) and were pleasantly surprised
by the wonderful, quaint & untouristy restaurants and hotels recommended.
We know you try to find these sorts of places, but we imagined they would
be overrun by other tourists toting your guidebook - not usually the case!
Just a few comments/ updates:
1. We stayed at the Hotel Regence in Arles - a very cheap, clean, quiet place. The woman behind the counter was extremely nice & friendly but didn't appear to speak a word of English. Perhaps she was not Sylvie? Also, we felt a little guilty washing a few items of clothing in the sink, as there were signs posted everywhere asking people please not to do just that. Oops.
2. We followed your suggested tours of the Luberon & Cotes du Rhone - overall, they were great. However, we found it hard to find anything to eat/drink on a Friday afternoon in late September in Seguret - no sign of the cafes in the old upper town! Also, while we found a few wine-tasting places in Gigondas, there was none on the main square called "Caveau des Vignerons". (Note should be made of the "primitive" toilet facilities in Gigondas - while "the hole" seems not uncommon in Provence, it was a bit of a surprise to find it in a town square catering to wine-tasting tourists!)
3. A general suggestion: we would have found it helpful if you noted in the guidebooks which restaurants accepted credit cards. Credit card acceptance is not universal, and although dining is not too expensive, we relied more on credit cards than cash as we travelled.
4. The best meal for the money we had in our ten days in France was at La Paillotte in Arles - it felt like at least 3-star service for 1-star prices! And the food was of course wonderful. The best dish we had was the eggplant mousse ("papeton d'aubergine") at Criquet in Arles.
5. There was a wonderful Provencal festival on in Arles when we were there - on September 30. It was apparently the first of what they hope will become an annual event. There were people in regional dress from all over Provence, wandering around the town, performing their local dances & music at the ancient Roman theatre (free!) followed by a paid-admission concert in the evening at the amphitheatre.
6. There is no longer locker-service available in the train station at Colmar. We lugged our bags into town (quite a walk!) and asked at the TI if they knew of somewhere to check the bags, as we were only there for a day. They had no clue; we later discovered that the Unterlinden Museum would happily keep the bags for us, no fee required, so long as we retrieved them before the museum closed.
7. Biggest let-down: the Champs-Elysees. Our stroll along its length was certainly not the "dessert" to a meal in a great restaurant. Chacun a son gout - to each his own!
8. Trip highlight: Carcassonne. We did this as a day-trip from Arles,
and managed to use up over two rolls of film in the space of 8 hours.
It was incredible. We couldn't imagine going there in the height of tourist
season, but at the end of September, on a weekday, we had the ramparts
almost to ourselves, and there is nary a person in the majority of our
pictures. It was great! Hard to believe that places like that can still
exist!
Nancy & Cameron Forde <email>
El Cerrito, CA USA 11/18/01
Being A Tourist
Being a tourist in France, or anywhere, is like being a guest in friend's
home. It helps to be gracious and polite. Not to mention one should always
try to speak the language.
Americans always think the French are rude. The fact is that Americans are rude as well and don't take five seconds to learn the local customs. Parisians always say bonjour before they get to any business. I've made the mistake and seen others make the mistake of jumping into whatever it is I'm trying to accomplish.
Listen, observe, and act like a guest in someone else's home.
David
Seattle, WA USA 11/18/01
Hotel du Champs de Mars
We are scheduled to leave for Paris in a month and we to are scheduled to
stay at the Hotel du Champs de Mars. We spoke with them over the phone and
I tried my best French, and I agree, the woman was very rude.
Next, a friend of ours who is from Paris offered to call the hotel for us and make our reservations. The very first thing she said to us was that the woman she dealt with was very rude. And this is from someone who spent the first 40 years of her life in Paris! Her son, who still lives in Paris, stopped by the hotel to check it out and said that it appeared clean and comfortable, but he too came away saying the woman at the front desk was rude.
My husband and I are still planning on staying there, and I'm hoping
that this has been all a fluke, but I have to be honest and say I'm a
bit apprehensive of our stay there.
Carolyn <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 11/09/01
Hotel du Champs de Mars
I have to disagree with the comments regarding the Hotel du Champs de Mars
in Paris. I stayed there last fall and absolutely loved it. We thought the
rooms were great, the staff helpful, and the location excellent. I've recommended
it to several people, and each person has raved about it.
New York, Ny USA 11/05/01
La Dissapointment du Paris
We just returned from a visit to Paris. We stayed at Hotel du Champs de
Mars. Rick's book gave this hotel a great review. However, we found most
of the staff to be incredibly rude. The woman at the front desk (who appears
in Rick's travel video) was so unpleasant. Upon entering the hotel, and
greeting her in French, she put the key on the counter and told us one at
a time in the elevator - no hello, no directions to the room, no nothing!
The housekeeping staff was also incredibly rude. In all fairness, the male
staff that worked at the desk at night was very nice and helpful. Overall,
we found many people in Paris rude (yes, we tried to speak French and were
polite). However, where we expected rudeness (wait staff), they were very
nice.
Beatrice
Seattle, WA USA 11/04/01
feedback
The book was great! We chose it because of its size & weight, and we ended
up regreting not staying at recommended hotels and eating at Rick's restaurants,
because the ones Rick recommended were just our style. Hotel La Roserie
in Chenonceaux was the best, along with the restaurant. Pascal Accolay of
Acco Dispo tours in Amboise was arrogant and condescending, and blatantly
solicited tips two times before the end of the tour. The five day museum
pass was a waste of money due to a week long strike of every museum we wanted
to see (October 8-13). NOBODY new what a KOSMOS calling card was. We loved
the Pantheon neighborhood and Hotel Senlis, and the restaruants recommended.
Marc Dumas <email>
Mililani, HI 96789 11/01/01
Renting a gite
If you will be in the same area for a week or more, try renting a gite.
We rented ours from Gites de France, and stayed in the lovely village of
Sermizelles, in Burgundy. Talk about a backdoor! We got a 10 bedroom retired
hotel, with private baths for each BR, and split the cost with five other
couples. The total cost (not per couple, the whole thing) was about a thousand
bucks for the week. Wow.
USA 10/26/01
Beaune
Rick is right on about Beaune and Burgundy. As often as I can, I try to
use Rick's "backdoor" philosophy of travel, while often intentionally avoiding
the very locations he recommends, as there are often a zillion ETBD guidebook
toting tourists at every stop. Beaune, however, was really great. Especially
good was his recommendation of the "Marche aux Vins", where for about six
bucks, you can taste as many as twenty or so wines at your leisure, and
buy if you like. It's right across from Beaune's main tourist attraction,
the Hotel Dieu (Hospice of Beaune), which was also great. Wine producer
Moillard has a shop on the main square worth investigating.
joe santa maria <email>
Stratford, nj USA 10/26/01
France, Belgium and Holland
My wife and I have just returned from a wonderful three week vacation in
France, Belgium and The Netherlands. It was our second trip, so we knew
in advance that we would be walking a lot. I'm not kidding, we walked between
7 - 10 miles a day - and we used the Metro and trains a lot. France was
incredible. We spent 5 days in Paris and 3 days in the countryside - the
Loire Valley, Brittany and Normandy. It was a nice balance of a big city
atmosphere and the slower pace of the country. The French people were wonderful
- don't believe the old stereotype that they dislike Americans. Paris was
magnificient. We stayed at Hotel Des Grande Ecoles in the Contrescarpe neighborhood.
It was definitely worth the $87 per night.
The Loire Valley was fantastic. We took the mini-bus tour Rick recommends in his book. We saw two chateaus in the morning, two in the afternoon. The town of Dinan in Brittany is really incredible. Rick's right - if you have time for only one stop in Brittany, make it Dinan. Suggest you rent a car and use it when driving around the countryside.
Bruges, Belgium is another incredibly beautiful small town. Everything you've heard or read about it is true. If you like lace, chocolate or beer, Bruges is the place. There are about 80 lace shops and almost as many chocolotiers. We stayed at Paul and Roos Gheereart's B&B. A beautiful house and a real bargain. The breakfast (included in the price) was very good. This was the best place we stayed, overall.
We finished our trip in The Netherlands. Delft was a beautiful smaller
town. Amsterdam was completely unique. Parts of it were very quiet. Other
parts were alive and exciting, lots of people and restaurants. My wife
and I took a nighttime tour of the red light district with about 15 other
people, and it was great.
David and Diane Anderson <email>
Roseville, CA USA 10/22/01
Sleeping In Paris
Just got back from a month in Europe. We spent 5 days in Oct in Paris. Stayed
at the Hotel Leveque in the Rue Cler neighborhood. The double paned windows
do block out the noise from outside. But it's so hot that it really didn't
do any good, because we had to open the windows. And then at 6:15 each morning
you could hear the maids starting work in the halls and everyone getting
going for the day. You could hear the people in the shower and hear them
talking. The doors leading to the halls are really worthless. Other then
not sleeping well the staff is nice. But as a light sleeper, and getting
in late, didn't like the 6:15 wake up every morning, and hot and stuffy
rooms. The Neighborhood was nice and enjoyed that it is close to the Eiffel
Tower.
Did find that Ricks suggestions were right on. We found that we agreed
with his rating and would only do the things with good marks and did not
regret one of them.
Wendy <email>
Brooklyn Park, MN USA 10/20/01
Paris and a Taste of Bruges
We went to Paris from 9/19 - 9/29 with a nights stay in Bruges in between.
Paris was great. We stayed in the Hotel Beaugency just off of Rue Cler.
Great neigborhood for a peaceful stay and a real good hotel for the price.
Museum pass is a must. I found the Parisians very hospitable especially
if you attempt to speak French. I basically get a language Cd and learn
the basics before I leave for a trip. Belgium was a great stop. Would like
to explore more northern European countries in depth after that side trip.
Robert <email>
Austin , TX USA 10/17/01
Feedback on Paris, Arromanche and Loire Valley tips
My daughter and I traveled in France just before 9/11. We stayed in Paris
at the Hotel Bastille Speria in the Marais neighborhood at the start of
the journey. I was disappointed as it was described as an English-language
friendly hotel in the guidebook. It was the one place where the desk clerk
did not speak much English and actually gave me wrong information on how
to buy a train ticket. My salvation was a guest with a rail schedule who
saved me an hour or more of commute by directing me to the best place to
buy a ticket. Hotel Lyon-Mulhouse, where we stayed on the way back, was
much better and had a great restaurant across the street with the name Couscous
in it.
In Arromanches we stayed at Hotel de la Marine despite the fact your
guide described the management as indifferent. In contrast, we found the
staff to be friendly and very helpful. In the Loire Valley we stayed at
Chateau de Pray and had what was one of the most elegant and well prepared
meals that I have ever had. It was well worth the price!
Judy Warner <email>
Victor, NY USA 10/16/01
Paris
We spent two weeks in the Swiss/French Alps and then on to Paris. We found
Rick's books to be extremely helpful, however it is a bit strange to go
to a restaurant so far away from home and have it filled with Americans,
all carrying a Rick Steves book of some sort. The recommended Hotel du Champ
de Mars in the Rue Cler neighborhood was delightful and very close to the
Metro. Alas, we did NOT fare as well with the Rick Steve's recommended eatery
Cafe le Bosquet at 46 Avenue Bosquet. We were rudely shooed away as we were
standing looking at the outside menu and then examing a map. When trying
to give the place "another chance" for dinner, we were met with mediocre
food and absolutely terrible service. The waiter completely ignored us for
almost an hour and a half, despite our friendly attempts for him to notice
us. We finally received the bill and had to leave without the dessert we
had ordered much earlier. There are far too many fine dining experiences
in Paris to waste time or money at this establishment.
Joni <email>
Bellevue, WA USA 10/11/01
France vacation
I just returned from a 2 week vacation in France, and spent most of the
time in Paris and Chamonix.
In Paris we stayed at the “Hotel Relais Bosquet”, in the Rue
Cler area, and found it to be a lovely, quiet, hotel, and close to Metro
etc. When checking several months prior to our arrival for rooms in various
hotels in this area, we found that most were fully booked, so we booked
this hotel quickly. We had breakfast at one of the small shops on Rue Cler.
Although the Rue Cler area is small, we really enjoyed being in this area.
From Rick’s book, we had dinners at “Auberge du Champs de Mars”,
and “La Fontaine de Mars”. Both were in the Rue Cler area and
were excellent. We also had lunch at “Café Med”, on Ile St.
Louis, one of Rick’s choices, and it was excellent as well.
We bought the 3 day museum pass, and as everyone has already said, it is
a necessity. We used it at several locations such as the Louvre, Orsay,
Versailles, and went past LONG lines waiting to get in, but we were in with
no waiting.
We used his tours for the museums, as well as the various area walks, and
found them to be very well done and worth the effort.
In Chamonix we stayed at “Hotel L’Arve”, one of Rick’s
choices. It was in a quiet area of town, along the river, and close to everything.
Our room was the large one shown in their brochure, on the 3rd floor, with
a large balcony looking towards Mont Blanc. We enjoyed having our breakfast
on the balcony looking out at the snow covered mountains.
Rick Herbert <email>
Fort Erie, Ontario, Canada, Ontario Canada 10/09/01
I went on my first back door tour this summer-Best of Europe. All the
books from Rick were great. After the tour ended in Paris I went for a week
to Bayeux in Normandy. Took Rick's book about France. Excellent! All the
tourist sites are worthwhile, especially the Tapestry Musuem, all World
War 2 museums and of course the Normandy beaches.
Stayed at Hotel Mogador in Bayeux. A Rick pick and it is a fine hotel. Mr.Mencaroni
is the owner, speaks great English is very, very helpful with all your questons.
For $4.00 more per day he provides a great breakfast of coffee, juice, fruit,
cereal, and rolls.
Try the calvados brandy and get the town brochure. There are lots of hotels
in Bayeux.
Craig Wilson <email>
Salt Lake City, Ut USA 09/11/01
I agree the tour boats on the Seine make for some spectacular sight-seeing....day or night. I was impressed with the Metro for its efficiency, but not for its cleanliness or safety. In fact, the New York City subways seemed cleaner than the Paris Metro!
Went to Versailles for the day. Forget the guided tour!! You can see all the spectacle and opulence of the Hall of Mirrors and other grand rooms (also the gardens unless the fountains are going off) by just paying for the general entry fee. You can rent the narrated cassette to describe the rooms to take with you as you walk from room to room. And you will not be subjected to the unsolicited commentary delivered by the rude, arrogant and inhospitable tour guides, who take you to the nothing-special-about-it chapel and royal bathing room. The guided tour was a waste of money!!
If you want to spend money for an informative tour of a grand palace,
go to England and tour Blenheim Palace (near Oxford). The tour guides
are a wealth of information and they are pleased you have made the effort
to come visit.
Don Lambrechts <email>
Ellicott City, MD USA 09/10/01
Buy the museum pass in Paris. It saved us hours of time waiting in
lines, and paid for itself 1/2 way through our visit. We waltzed by lines
of people.
twostachs <email>
Chicago, IL USA 09/09/01
I think it's time to find a new back door..We were on Rue Cler a week
ago and thought it was Commonwealth Avenue in Boston..there were more Americans
than locals.
JD <email>
NY USA 09/09/01
Le 21émé hotel in Strasbourg (www.hotel_cyber_21.com) is an inexpensive
"cyber_hotel", which means you get a small, clean room, with cable (3 English
channels), and a computer in your room, with cheap internet rates. It may
not seem like a big deal, but after being offline for several weeks, having
unlimited access to send emails, conduct research, or just catch up on the
latest trends can be pretty cool.
Wes Sanders <email>
Santa Cruz, CA USA 09/08/01
The phone number for Internet access in Colmar at Poussin Vert is incorrect.
It is 03 89 41 18 58. They are only open in the evenings, so call before
you go. It is very reasonable, only 10 Francs an hour (but kind of smoky).
Wes Sanders <email>
Santa Cruz, CA USA 09/08/01
In Paris there is a convenient self-serve laundromat with soap and English instructions located near Hotel Leveque & Rue Cler. Take a right upon exiting the hotel and turn left at the next block, Rue de Grenelle. The laundromat is on the left side of the street at the corner of the next block.
The catacombs have been renovated and cleaned and are open for longer hours. The pickpockets were out in full force. We were harrased almost everyday, but avoided disapointment because we had on our money belts.
An excellent restaurant in Bruges is Bistro den Hazzen, a real chef lives above the restaurant and offers wonderful inexpensive meals.
We rented a houseboat in Amsterdam with a great view. They have a website
at www.amsterdamhouse.com We highly recommend the canal tour that is run
by Boom Chicago. It's a small, 10 passenger boat and you can bring food
and drinks with you. It leaves every night at 8:00 and goes until 9:30.
It's a bargain for only $10. Book early by stopping by the club or calling,
spots fill up fast. We do not recommend the Let's Go Amsterdam bike tour.
Their selling point was that you take a train out of the city and them
bike in the country. Our guide was very rude and insisted on setting a
very fast pace. We wanted to go slowly and enjoy the countryside at a
leisurely pace. We finally told him to just go on without us if he was
in such a hurry and eventually he begrudgingly slowed down.
Julian Buckner <email>
Charleston, SC USA 09/08/01
Third trip to Paris "with" Rick and still believe his tips are timely and relevant. Each time stayed in Rue Cler area. One may want to reconsider staying in this area in August as it is a more residential area and 75% of the shops/restuarants were closed. Hotel Relais Bosquet was lovely, but breakfast is overpriced for what you get. Cafe du Marche had too many Americans in it for my tastes: a comment on Rick Steve's success! Enjoyed boulangerie at corner of Rue Cler and Rue Dominique: try pain du pomme for a real treat.
Museum pass was a lifesaver in August, but have also used it during visits in March and October with similar success.
My friend was 'mugged' as she tried to go thru the subway turnstile at
the Ecole Militaire Metro stop. A man pushed up behind her as she was
about to go through, and shoved his hand in to her purse. Fortunately,
the purse was all zipped up and I was a few steps behind her so saw the
entire thing. This happened in the middle of the day, not late at night,
so it pays to be vigilent for pickpockets. All turned out fine for us:
the bad guy wasn't so happy!
Pamela Montgomery <email>
Anchorage, AK USA 09/08/01
Hotel du Turenne great! Rue du Cler a good area for us.(family of 4) We had no problems with crime, etc. (there mid July).
Amboise try the chocolate/cafe/tea "Brionet"? to die for! Sarlat as wonderful as ever. We winged it with accommodation and stayed at the Hotel Madeleine - perfect!
Arles Hotel Calendal was a real find they will wash your (our large load)laundry overnight for 50 francs good for us meant we had time for other exciting things and outside our room in the morning great breakfast except if you eat in the courtyard leave someone to guard the table from the pigeons!!
We swam under the Pont du Gard we are sure everyone thought we were mad,
but what the heck, it was hot and no one knew us! It's a great site now
with good safe parking and a good cafe for a quick lunch.
Colleen <email>
Auckland, NZ 09/06/01
I have to agree with the reader who says Rick is too hard on the Latin quarter. I stayed in Paris for three days at the Hotel de Latin. Very nice hotel. Great atmosphere! Close to Notre Dame and close to San Michel metro station where you can pick up the metro and the RER.
I suggest taking a night boat tour. Everyone gathers at the banks of the Seine at night. It's lit up and beautiful. People wave to the boats from the different bridges (who says Parisians are unfriendly) and we even saw a fireworks display. We also just happened to be in front of the Eiffel tower when it lit up and shimmered causing all shorts of ohhhh's and ahhhhh's from the crowd. It was also a good way to get oriented with the city.
A great restaurant is right across the bank from Notre Dame called Le
Petit Pont, right near the Petit Pont bridge. Great atmosphere, great
people watching and the most amazing French onion soup I have ever tasted!
Angie Lamerato
East Lansing, MI USA 09/05/01
BEWARE THE PARIS VISITE CARD!! When we asked for the museum pass this
is what we got! It is not the museum pass you want. We realized it when
we arrived at Versailles and still had to wait in the hour long line. We
immediately bought museum passes at the ticket office and didn't stand in
another line. I have to disagree with the person who felt the Versailles
gardens were a waste of time. We went on Sunday when all the fountains were
on. It was 92 degrees and we stayed in the palace for less than an hour.
The palace was overwhelming, almost gaudy. It made me understand why the
starving masses were so bitter. After trying to get past all the tours we
made a break for the gardens. They were breathtaking! We walked around,
ate ice cream and stuck our feet in the water along with everyone else.
I think I heard 7 different languages while relaxing by one of the fountains.
It was great!
Angie Lamerato <email>
East Lansing, MI USA 09/05/01
My wife and I just returned from 10 wonderful days in Paris. The Paris
2001 book was a lifesaver for us when it came to missing lines and getting
right in to seeing sights and exhibits. One night at the Cafe du Marche
on Rue Cler, I counted 4 Rick Steves' Paris Books out on tables. After that
I started noticing them in Metro stations and at airports. The only warnings
I would give is that things do change and you must check ahead. Metro stations
and RER lines close for maintenance and can leave you scrambling. The main
entrance to the Orsay is closed until 2002 for remodeling leaving entry
to a much smaller door on the north side of the building. Also an exhibit
my wife really wanted to see at the Louvre was closed because they did not
have enough people on duty to open it. The book was great and helped us
see a Paris we might have otherwise missed. Thanks!!
Carl Englund <email>
Fairport, NY USA 09/01/01
Traveling alone in Europe while having Rick Steves in your back pocket is like traveling with your best friend.
I was in France and Germany in June and July, which was my first trip to Europe at age 40. Not only did his PBS series, travel guides and website give me the confidence to go it alone, but referring to his guides reminded me that I was indeed an American in Europe. Traveling alone, it's easy to forget how far away from home you are because you become so absorbed in the culture. While feeling so independent, I also found I was highly dependent on the people there to meet my most basic needs. (Social skills training 101!) What an intense experience.
I remember being at Versailles using Rick's book for the abbreviated tour. It was raining that day, which made me feel particularly alone, and when I came to the end of the palace tour where Marie and Louis XIV were escorted off the property to later be beheaded, I read the line in his book that said...he could imagine Marie Antoinette singing "Louis, Lou-i, oh baby, we gotta go now." I burst into laughter at a rather inappropriate time, but I shared a moment with a fellow American that will remain unforgettable.
One thing about the Paris guide that I felt off-target was the description of the latin quarter. While it is true that this area is mostly northern African shops and restaurants, they are outstanding in quality and this culture now has a heavy influence on modern Paris. I found myself hanging out at St. Michael more than any other place because of it's beauty and charm.
Americans and Arabics have one thing in common.....they are not particularly appreciated by the French. While I had no problems with the French (I actually experienced some amazing displays of compassion) it would be more productive to embrace this race of people rather than postulate that they detract from a truly Parisian experience.
Thanks Rick, for helping me fulfill a life-long dream. Oh and by the
way, everything they say about Frenchmen is true......ooh, la, la. What
a celebration of la femme!
Deena Moore <email>
Houston, TX USA 08/30/01
I have bought and read many travel books by many authors but never
before have I enjoyed a travel book like Rick's. After researching many
travel books I noticed your excellent France, Belgium and the Netherlands
at Barnes and Noble. I decided to read it for I had not read any books by
you as of yet. I could not put it down. It was such a complete - cut to
the chase- book. It read like a novel to me. My knowledge of the area was
there but your book put everything in to perspective and made everything
coherent. I felt like I was seeing these things thru your words. I was particularly
interested in the D-Day Museums and that area because while my father was
not at Normandy, he was a participant at Anzio Beach. He survived and was
able to tell us about it. We live in the New Orleans, La. area and recently
acquired a beautiful D-Day Museum. One morning 2 days before my trip, I
began reading your section on D-Day at Caen on page 116. It reads: "The
finale is a walk through the U.S. Armed Forces Memorial Garden. I was a
bit bothered by the mindless laughing of lighthearted children unable to
appreciate their blessings. Then I read on the pavement, "From the heart
of our land flows the blood of our youth, given to you in the name of freedom."
And their laughter made me happy." It is interpitation like this that literally
brought me to tears. Thank you for your personal interest in every place
you travel; and the fact that it can be passed on to your readers and without
notice can cause a reader like me to cry with happiness. Thank you for your
insight!
Sheryn Finnan <email>
Metairie, La USA 08/29/01
We were very disappointed with the Hotel de Pont Vieux in Carcassonne. It
was one of the hotels recommended by Rick. We faxed a week ahead and were
assured of a garden room. When we arrived we were given a room that looked
across to a satellite dish and a wall, the garden was obscured by bamboo
mats. The room was small, hot, with old linen on the bed and a bathroom
light and shower that did not work. We felt disappointed because had we
known that our room was to be so inadequate we would have booked another
hotel. When we spoke with the owner, Serge, we felt less than satisfied
by his less than truthful responses to our questions.
Linda Stead <email>
Victoria, B.C. Canada 08/27/01
I have Rick's Paris guidebook and I must have overlooked the Mary cult
comment. What is the Mary cult? What did Rick say about it? If it really
is a cult and like most cults, they brainwash vulnerable people, who cares?
Unless you have known people involved in cults, then you can't really feel
sorry for any negative comments made about them. This is a travel message
board and I don't want to turn it into a political/ethical issue board.
However, when you go to Europe and you experience the whole Roma gypsy issue,
initially you are interested in their subculture. That is, until you get
robbed from them and realize that is a part of their culture. I'm sorry,
but I would be more sensitive over the loss of my passport and money than
worry about offending individuals who steal from others.
Lori <email>
USA 08/23/01
I only hope that I am being over sensitive and Rick Steves meant nothing
by it, but I too was slightly offended at his comments about the Mary cult
in his guidebook for Paris. I thought it went a little too far. I always
thought one should respect other customs and traditions as part of the experience
of traveling.
Carolyn <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 08/22/01
If you are determined to stay in the Rue Cler neighborhood and all
the rooms in Rick's suggested hotels are booked, try Hotel St. Dominique
on Rue St. Dominique. Located around the corner from Rue Cler, it is convenient
to the Invalides metro stop. My husband and I have stayed there twice. We
stayed in June 2000 and paid approximately $85 for a double room with a
bath. There are, of course, other hotels in the neighorhood that offer better
value, but this is a good option if others are booked. The staff is helpful
and the rooms are clean. They have no web page, but the phone number can
be located in the French on-line yellow pages (Les Pages Jaunes).
Jeanie Clayton <email>
Daphne, AL USA 08/21/01
Dear Fellow Travelers: Just got back from PAris and the Riviera. Three
important tips: 1) You must get the Museum pass- Rick was right- you pass
all the lines, no waiting. Makes you feel like a V.I.P. LOL 2) When using
the Paris metro- hold on to your ticket throughout your ride. We accidently
threw away our tickets and when we tried to catch the next train, Metro
ticket police were stopping people and we had to pay a fine ($15 per person)
We tried to explain that we had paid but they don't even want to hear it.
We felt so stupid but were relieved to find out that they are always fining
Parisians for not holding onto their Carte Orange. 3) YOU MUST WEAR A MONEY
BELT! I know it may sound and feel corny to wear one, but it is a must.
Pickpocketing has increased 15% in Paris ( read it in a Parisian newspaper)
My first trip on the Metro was interesting, I felt someone feeling my back
pockets. My boyfriend experienced the same thing. We would always say "
No one will pick pocket us, we have a Rick Steves moneybelt" Wear it, Pickpocketing
is terrible in Paris. Your passports are worth more than the Francs Ok now
Im going to the French tastebud section for my advice on Vegetarian eating
in France! Bon Voyage
Lori <email>
USA 08/20/01
we had a great time in paris, beynac,collioure, avignon, and back to
paris. our last night splurge was at le p'tit troquet. french friends took
us there 5 yrs. ago, and it was great. after being in rick's book for 2
yrs, the quality and ambience have gone south, while the prices have gone
north. i think they now have a "gig", so go at your own risk. mike spring
mike spring <email>
san rafael, ca USA 08/18/01
A recomendation of L'Hotel Boetie in Paris @600FF brought back fond
memories. We were stationed near Paris in 1962-64. We stayed there for $5.00-
Remember Europe on $5.00 a Day? Prices have changed. In 1999, we did a day
trip to Mt.San Michel from Paris. TGV train to Rennes & Bus Bretons (I think)
to MSM. Return bus came approx. 16:00 back to Rennes for TGV train back
to Paris. It gave plenty of time to tour. Return bus ride was very hot.
I think the AC wasn't working. I plan to take a 28 day involved train trip
thru France next year solo. Any precautions? I did well in Italy this year
& survived Budapest & Prague last year. While in Nice in June, I took the
bus to Vence on a market day. What a delight! St Paul Vence down the hill
was so charming. The streets are made up of black pebbles shaped like flowers.
There is a picture around each corner & the Views! I shall return. It was
so refreshing after my intense museum schedule in Italy. Nice is a good
entry or exit point if travelling to Italy since the border is so close
& sometimes the airfares are more reasonable.
Liz <email>
San Antonio, , Tx USA 08/18/01
Wow! I stopped through Paris on a trip to Germany. The Paris guide book
was GREAT! From the best place to exit the subway to see the Eiffel Tower
to little hints about getting into the Louvre from the subway to avoid the
large crowds at the main entrance. I can go on and on about the walking
tours as well. I travel a lot for work but I want Rick's job! I just bought
the Italy book for my trip in January. Of course we'll be visiting Paris
again on the way home.
David Lindsey <email>
Augusta, GA USA 08/16/01
What a way to travel! The one carry-on bag is definitely the way to go. While others were doing a 21st century airport version of Ellis Island, my wife and I whisked through customs and were on our way into the Netherlands and Germany. Although we didn't use Rick's recommendations, we used Rick's philosophy. This led us to some Hotels that hovered somewhere between suspect and comfortable. I would recommend the Hotel Asterisk in Amsterdam, the Hotel Silberne Rose in St. Goar, and another I am keeping a secret in Delft. Our highlights were Delft and the Rhine. I am a Marine Inspector and had a delightful evening ensuring the passing Rhine freighters met my approval (a few beers helped).
If you like formal gardens go to the Paleis Het Loo in Apeldoorn. We
stayed the night before in nearby Deventer. Deventer has a classic central
square with all of the required tables, restaurants, itinerant Peruvian
musicians, etc. Take the stoptrein to Apeldoorn, and grab a connecting
bus to Het Loo. Only a guilder and easy to find on the posted bus map.
We skipped the Palace itself since furniture doesn't overly excite us
and the Dutch Royal Family is very nice but rather dull (compared to Windsors
and Capets). The gardens are a marvel, and we had them nearly to ourselves!
No Versailles crowds; you could hear the birds chirping (Dutch of course).
Thanks to all at ETBD!
Mark Rea <email>
Stockton, CA USA 08/14/01
TRAINS
I just read someone's comment about not being able to travel by train
from Rouen to Caen. Funny, we did just that in May! I found it really
helpful to go to the SNCF website and print the train schedules for one's
route. When we went to France, we landed in Paris, took the train to Reims
(Gothic cathedral), then from Reims via Laon to Amien (another Gothic
cathedral!), then Amien via Rouen and Caen to Bayeux, then Bayeux to Paris.
Upon arriving in Reims, I bought tickets for all other legs of our trip,
showing the very helpful clerk my printout to get the route I wanted.
Printouts of the train schedule also helped in Italy, when the first train
we wanted was full. They have a web site, too.
Debra
Plymouth , MI USA 08/14/01
My partner and I explored the Provence area, Nimes, Carcassonne, Cordes, Rocamadour, Sarlat, Albi, Toulouse, and ended up in Amboise for two nights. For starters, the info. on the laundry mats in Arles and Sarlat were very helpful.
I had booked our entire 14 night stay in advance via fax and email. I always specified a bright, airy, and quiet room. With two exceptions, my requests were honored. Hotel Medieval in Avignon — hosted our first night after our flight from San Francisco and arrival in Avignon nine hours after landing. I had requested a garden room, written that we might be arriving in the evening but left my credit card, etc. We arrived at 6PM to find that our room was in an airless fourth floor room (no lift and no help up). The floors were slippery, the bath tub a sliver in diameter, and a shower attachment hose head that splayed water everywhere. We thought we would slip on the slick floors so most of the towels went immediately on the floor. Garden view, all right, floors down, looking straight down out the window. When I appeared crestfallen the clerk basically said well, what did you expect..it is the last room available.
LaCoste — Cafe de Sade had a great little restaurant.
Arles-one of the highlights of the trip — Hotel D'Arlatan — "classy yet affordable" wonderful location, great room. Highly recommend it. Garage next to property. Helpful staff.
Carcassonne — stayed at Hotel Le Donjony — great location, clean and well-appointed room — view of the castle from the bedroom window. If you think you are going to return to France, make sure you get a copy of Best Western's France guide as well as the Europe guide. Both were free in the room.
Amboise — the last of the properties in Rick's guidebook — Hotel Le Manoir des Minimes — about $100 a night. Great room — low original beams added character to the room, huge tub, skylight in bathroom with view of castle, you are that close. It was a treat to be able to park directly in front of the hotel. This last feature made this hotel perfect for us. Quiet, air-conditioned, an umbrella loaned during a downpour, and glasses of ice cubes on request for our Coca Cola Lights.
Booked the sound and light show over the internet and had the best seats — we
booked for the section that had back supports. Show began at 10:45 and
by 11:45 we were frozen. Left and saw concluding fireworks fifteen minutes
later from the bathroom skylight.
Helen <email>
Pleasant Hill, California USA 08/11/01
We spent 1 1/2 days in the Alsace region of France, staying in Colmar. The entire area is like a storybook — half timbered buildings and tons of flowers. Quaint villages tucked into the mountains...very beautiful. We took a full day escorted tour through a company called LCA Toptour, which was briefly mentioned in one of Rick's newsletters. It was fantastic. Jean-Claude, who is the owner and driver and tour guide, is a native of the area. His English is perfect and he is fluent in several other languages as well. He offers several 1/2 day tours, and we combined 2 into a full day. Jean-Claude went seamlessly from English to Japanese throughout the day.
We toured a medievel castle in the mountains, stopped into a few little
towns, learned a lot about local history, the the vineyards and other
local industries, and tasted wine at one of his favorite vineyards. Jean-Claude
is an official wine-taster in the off-season, so he is very knowledgable.
It was about $75 each for the whole day, and we were picked up and dropped
off at our hotel. To contact him the web site is www.alsace-travel.com
and the e-mail is lca-toptour@alsace-travel.com. If you go, I'd recommend
staying for at least 2 full days so you can really stop and enjoy this
area. A good spot to recharge for a couple days.
Alisa Goldschmidt <email>
Washington, DC USA 08/09/01
Just got back from a great visit to France and Italy. Spent two weeks
in each. We were in Paris for 8 days, Bayeux, Arles, Aix, and Nice. With
some very useful help from this graffiti wall, our trip was outstanding.
If you want any information on where we stayed, where we ate, what we saw
please email me. Be happy to share.
Steve <email>
USA 07/25/01
Several items on France: (1)Paris (last week in June): MEMORIAL DE LA DEPORTATION closes at 7 p.m. (19:00), not 9 p.m. as described in Rick's France 2000.
HOTELS: In summer, it's worth springing for AC, not only because of the heat but because of the noise from all the other hotel rooms with open windows. June is a bad month for finding hotels in Paris. Make reservations way, way ahead! I strongly second the other entries recommending the Ibis and Mercure chain (www.accor.com) — sometimes you get so worn out that a comfortable place to rest is far more important than "character," and Paris is one of those places.
RESTAURANTS: I recommend the restaurant Les Deux Marcassins on the Rue d'Hauteville in the Gare du Nord area. This street is only a couple of blocks long and is off the Boulevard Lafayette. It is a new family run place that hasn't yet "caught on." We were worried when we found ourselves almost the only customers, but it was by far the best dinner of our stay and we were treated like royalty.
MUSEUMS: Carte de Musee: This may be more expensive than individual tickets, especially for me since there is no senior discount, but the Carte saved us hours of standing in line. No Carte but no Carte was required for my 16-year-old granddaughter - under-18's get in free. Louvre: After trying unsuccessfully to do the Louvre from "Mona Winks," I now think your best bet is to sign up for a tour. They keep moving things around — hardly anything is where it was described in "Mona" any more. The Orsay doesn't have this problem and "Mona" really works well here. My favorite Paris museum was the Musee de Cluny, where original stained glass windows from the Sainte-Chapelle, viewed beautifully backlit and close up, and the absolutely divine "Lady and the Unicorn" tapestries. Versailles: Palace is great, but the gardens aren't worth the long, long hike; For the palaces, however, the reverse is true.
(2) PROVENCE: I went in July (my favorite part of France) to see the blooming lavender and sunflower fields. The flowers were beautiful but the heat is horrendous and the place is wall-to-wall tourists. May is a much better time to go — no lavender or sunflowers, but fields of wild poppies (coquelicots) in bloom, much less crowded and much more temperate weather.
(3) CEVENNES — try the Cevennes Mts. for a real back door experience;
you can even duplicate the trip taken by Robert Louis Stevenson (author
of "Treasure Island") as described in his amusing "Travels with a Donkey
in the Cevennes." Some of the driving is distinctly white-knuckle, though;
the French idea of driving on narrow, winding mountain roads is to go
way too fast while straddling the center line. Lonely Planet's "France"
has some good info on this area.
Mary from Oregon
USA 07/20/01
I just returned from a 2 week trip, briefly to England to drop our
oldest son at Oxford for the summer, and then on to France. We had 3 generations
travelling, my mom, me and my 10 year old son. We planned ahead for reservations
from the US. The chunnel ride was uneventful, but we didn't get the best
rates. Call ahead at least a week, since the cheapest seats sell out. We
were going on to Amboise (through Paris). We went to Gard Montparnasse to
get a TGV to Amboise, but were told it was unavailable and to go to Gard
d'Austerlitz. I still don't understand that, but we went by 2 buses (the
first broke down) and finally made it into Amboise. The travel was confusing
but the people were helpful especially with my broken French. I have also
found that looking slightly pitiful and saying merci alot is quite helpful.
Hotel La Breche that Rick recommends is convenient to the train station
and was very nice. They did ask for half pension. The food wasn't fancy,
but ok and is served outside in a very nice shaded garden area. We took
Acco-Dispo tours to the chateaus. Pascal was our guide and he was great.
He was knowledgeable and fun. I promised I would write and recommend him.
We booked him ahead on line from the US. He arrived on the dot and off we
went. My mom is a senior so some riding was actually preferable to us. We
later really enjoyed Le Clos Luce, Da Vinci's last house. Beynac was next.
If you go, make sure you have a French phone card first. We were staying
at Hotel du Chateau and they will pick you up in sarlat. There was no place
to get a card and the phones would not take money. Again smiles, poor French
and a little sheepishness got the ticket men at the station to call. Make
sure and make your reservations out of Sarlat before you leave. Phillipe
will come and get you but he won't take you back. He says "get a taxi",
even though Patricia said bothe ways on the email. She also agreed to a
room rate for 3 that they said was only for 2 and therefore 3 was more and
that Font de Gaume was open on Wed. When you get there, everyone just shrugs
and says "you know she doesn't speak English". One might wonder why she
answers English email then. But, we were on vacation. The extra money amounted
to about $30 and we went to Grotte de Rouffignac and had a wonderful time.
the taxi ride was about 550 ff. He waited on us and talked some on the way
to and from. The guide gave extra information in English because so many
of us were English speaking and the cave was incredibly interesting to all
of us. Later dinner at Hotel Bonnet was the best we had the entire trip.
Canoe trips were available and fun for my 10 year old and myself. The 2
hour trip which is the shortest trip, hover, is a plenty. We got to Paris
next, and found our hotel was unacceptable. I had to get to work quickly.
Around the corner was a Hotel Mercure that is a 3 star place. It was hot
in Paris and we felt we needed some air conditioning and not so much road
noise. We have stayed at this cahin before and recommend it. It was booked
for our last 2 nights so we found Hotel les Jardins Eiffel recommed by Rick
near the Rue Cler neighborhood. It was also very nice and a great place
to stay. The tour group out of that hotel was tour Paris and they would
come to the hotel and pick you up and return you. This was a great feature
for my mom and son to go off alone while I was at my conference. A last
note, the warnings about pickpockets are true. Three of my collegues were
robbed at 3 differnent times over a 3 day period...all in the Metro. Be
careful One lady was trapped in between the turnstyle and the metal doors.
The pickpocket held the turnstile and that keep he doors from opening. He
made a lot of noise and pusshes and shoved her back and forth, and releived
her of her wallet.
Caroline
USA 07/19/01
I just got back from Europe with my family. We used Rick Steve's book
for all of our hotel accommodations and were extremely pleased with all
of them. In Paris we stayed at Hotel Bastille Speria. The hotel had a great
location in the Marais neighborhood. The staff was helpful and friendly.
The rooms were very nice although they were the smallest rooms we encountered
on our whole trip. While staying in Paris, I would recommend going to Monet's
gardens in Giverny. Although it is a day trip, it is well worth it. We loved
Paris and found the people to be quite friendly if you try to speak their
language. Even asking them if they speak English in French helps them warm
up to you. Out next stop was down in Arles in Provence. We stayed at Hotel
Regence. It is family run and Sylvie is very helpful and friendly. The hotel
goes out of their way to make sure you have a wonderful stay. The rooms
were very clean and spacious. The hotel is located right on the river and
close to everything in town. The town is nice and has a great local flavor
to it. We loved it here and can't say enough good things about the area
and Hotel Regence.
Molly <email>
USA 07/18/01
Lori, I have used ParisVision and CityRama bus tours regularly over
the past 5 yrs for hard to reach rail destinations and both are very good.
Everyone should know that you can call to reserve the day before from your
hotel and need not pay until prior to boarding your bus. Both have websites
or you can check offerings in brochures in the hotel lobby. Have fun.
Laurie <email>
USA 07/17/01
Hi all, I DESPERATELY need some adivce. Although I have travelled to
numerous countries in Europe, I am taking my first trip to Paris in 2 weeks.
Now, I am spending 3 days in Paris. I am arriving on a Thursday morning.
Of course I dont want to waste any time, so I would like to do some sightseeing
as soon as I get there. Now, I usually like to explore places myself. However,
my travel partner has begged me to take a 3 hour tour the first day just
to get aquainted with Paris. Rick recommends PARIS VISION tour group. Has
anyone taken a tour with this company and what is your opinion? Thanks
lori <email>
parsippany, nj USA 07/16/01
Just got back from my first trip to Paris and Rick's books were indispensible!
We followed his advice and purchased a Carte Musee (museum pass). There
were ten people in our group and when we got to the Musee D'Orsay, the line
was wrapped almost all the way around the block. All of us waltzed to the
front door, flashed our cards at the man controlling admittance and were
let in with the next group! Sweet! Also, I strongly recommend buying a Paris
Visite card for the Metro. Many times both day and night, we encountered
closed ticket windows inside Metro stations. If we hadn't had a pass, we'd
have had to hunt around for a place to get a ticket. One final thought:
handicapped travelers or those with physical challenges should be aware
that stairs - lots of stairs - are the norm in Metro stations. Sometimes
there are escalators to assist with your exit but more times than not, you're
in for a climb to get back to street level. If you're really out of shape
or have physical challenges that make stair climbing difficult, you might
wish to consider taking the bus or a taxi. More expensive but definitely
flatter. Best Tip: Read Rick's books from cover to cover. You'll be prepared
and the Parisians will thank you for it!!!
Beverly Lueke <email>
Charlotte, NC USA 07/14/01
If you go to Cordes sur Ciel in Languedoc, I highly recommend staying
and/or eating at Les Ormeaux. This is a first-class restaurant with about
4 newly-remodeled rooms upstairs, but the building retains its 13th-century
ambience. Comfortable rooms, great food, reasonable prices. Tel 05 63
56 19 50; fax 05 63 56 23 37. Cordes is a remarkable town sitting on top
of a hill. It's not exactly undiscovered, since it lives off tourism now,
but the tourists are mostly French and British. I was told it is a smaller,
less-crowded version of Carcassonne (although I didn't go to Carcassonne,
so I can't really say). For something completely different, try St. Jean
de Luz, a Basque beach town on the Atlantic just a few km from the Spanish
border. It's also the place where Louis XIV got married - they sealed
off the door where he and his bride exited the church immediately after
the ceremony so no one else could ever follow. There were few Americans
there, but lots of French. This could be a relaxed place for your beach
break. It's about 5 hours by TGV from Paris. SNCF also runs trains from
there to Irun (18 francs, 15 minutes), where you can catch Spanish trains,
but I found no mention of that on any online timetable.
Steve Beck <email>
Menlo Park, CA USA 07/14/01
Following are some observations after a three week loop around western
France with my wife and two teens... We arrived at CDG in the afternoon,
spent one night at IBIS, and rented a car from Europcar the next morning
(reserved through Auto Europe). Our subsequent nights were in Rouen (1),
Arromanches (1), Plouer sur Rance (2), Chinon (3), Beynac (2), Albi (1),
Caunes-Minervois (2), Arles (2). We then caught the TGV to Paris for 5
nights. Rick's guides were invaluable, but if I had to do over again I'd
visit fewer cities and spend more time in each. The tips on by passing
Paris museum lines saved much time. We used ATM machines and VISA exclusivily,
never cashing our travelers checks. Some of our favorite lodging: Plouer
sur Rance - Hotel Manoir de Rigourdaine (www.hotel-rigourdaine.fr) is
in an very beautiful setting and reasonably close to Dinan, Dinard, and
Saint Malo by car. Chinon - Hotel Diderot was rustic, friendly, quiet,
close to the market, with exotic home-made jams. Albi - Le Vieil Alby
has modern rooms in an area with a lot of character. The owner went out
of his way to keep us happy. Caunes-Minervois - L'Ancienne Boulangerie
(www.caunes-minervois.com) is in a very small non-touristy town. Terry
& Lois were very helpful, and our meal at nearby Hotel d'Alibert was a
treat. Arles - Hotel Regence staff go out of their way to please. Paris
- Hotel Muguet was very comfortable, close to Rue Cler and metro. Some
negatives: Beynac - Hotel Bonnet was nice, but we were unable to cool
the rooms off in the evening dues to tiny bugs drawn from the nearby creek.
I wished I'd packed mosquito netting to cover the windows! Rouen - Driving
and parking were frustrating. Next time I'd take the train to Rouen and
pick up the rental car there.
Kirk <email>
Issaquah, WA USA 07/13/01
i spent four nights at the wonderful and inexpesive hotel lyon-mulhouse
on the non-existent bastille in paris. it was a great location and right
on two major metro lines. i highly recommend the place... if you don't
mind the occasional din of a metro passing below the hotel. BUY THE MUSEUM
PASS!!!!!! we used the three day one and used it to waltz to the front
of a three hour line on a saturday at the louvre, an hour long one on
free sunday at the orsay, and were able to walk into any museum without
wondering about the price. without it we would have walked right by saint-chapelles
magnificent stained glass and the fascinating conciergerie on the way
to the pompidou! take a seine river cruise! go to the eiffel tower at
night to watch it sparkle from the inside... don't miss the free movie.
go to versaille...it's close to the city by rer... and lastly make sure
that your rer ticket for your trip from the city to cdg airport does not
say "dans la cite" i speak french and just overlooked this as i spent
the last tickets of my beloved carnet...luckily i kept a 50 franc note
in my pocket....cause that's what it cost me to get out of the system!!!!
paris is friendly.... just ask politely in french if people speak english....they
always do.
krissy <email>
san jose, ca USA 07/10/01
Suzanna...note that you see few comments about Holland and the Netherlands
anyway, so it is not really an issue. You certainly are not a regular
visitor to this site. If you were, you would be appreciative of all the
wonderful tips shared here and less annoyed with how it is arranged (or
not arranged) for you. Put this site in your favorites and check it regularly.
Then make note of things that will be helpful to you on your well-planned-in-advance
trip. I have used so many of the tips shared here by generous travelers
and my trips have been very enriched. Mary
Mary
USA 07/09/01
Holland and the Netherlands aren't in France! Also, it would be really
helpful to group places together, so that if you're looking for Normandy,
for example, you don't have to scroll through comments on the whole of
France.
suzanna cardash
UK 07/06/01
Rick Steves' books are the best. Unfortunately, everyone else must think
so too because we found many of the recommendations to be way too popular.
For example, at the Eiffel Tower, my son coined the north gate line, the
Rick Steves' line. It takes 1 1/2 hrs. to go up in this line and 5 minutes
to get up using the other 3 lines! But your restaurant recommendations
are the best.
Linda <email>
Los Altos, CA USA 07/03/01
My husband and I have recently returned from 3 weeks in France. We liked
Hotel de Sevigne, Marais(400F with shower & WC, elevator, in late May)
and on previous trip Hotel St-Jacques, Contrescarpe (see comments in "sleeping").
We have not stayed at Hotel Practic nearby in the Marais, but it is on
a delightful little square with trees. Note that the RER does not have
schematic maps in the cars like the Metro — it's in the end car (you can
get an RER map off the internet). In the Loire Valley Hotel Georges Sand
in Loches was in a nice building but cheaper rooms came with a neon sign
outside and lots of street noise. The restaurant had a nice terrace overlooking
a small river, but the service was slow and self-important — only one of
the three servers could manage a hint of a smile. We arrived half an hour
early by mistake (most restaurants will not serve before 7:30)and received
no food or drink for 45 minutes to an hour. This is the only place we
did not receive wonderful service. We particularly enjoyed Chateau Langeais
and the small medieval chateau at Fougeres-sur-Bievre. It was impossible
to view Azay-le-Rideau from the outside (Rick's guide said "skippable
interior") without paying for the interior visit — there's a high wall
around it. The Agnes Sorel was very nice in Chinon; we liked Chinon as
being smaller and a little less touristy than Amboise. Fontevraud was
svery interesting. In the Dordogne Chambres Versailles in Beynac was very
nice and friendly. I loved St-Cirq la Popie, better than Rocamadour; it
is a small, quaint stone village high above the Lot River,and the Auberge
du Sombral was very nice (there was pressure to take dinner, but it was
reasonable and very good @ ~95F). The manager is a little curt, but she
did manage a smile, and the rest of the staff were very friendly.
Jinny Danzer <email>
St. Louis, USA 07/02/01