Rick Steves' France, Belgium & Netherlands: 2002
Please share any ways we can improve or fix this guidebook. Are there recommendations in this book that disappointed you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition? Here's what you thought about the 2002 edition:
our trip
We are not great vacation planners by nature, so Rick's book was a lifesaver
on our trip through Amsterdam, Belgium and France. It became as important
to safeguard as our passports. For example, Rick's advice about staying
in Haarlem instead of expensive Amsterdam was bang on. Thanks for that.
The notes I added to my book were minor suggestions/additions...for example,
we found Antibes far too touristy...never order a cappuccino in France unless
you like a lot of whipped cream and virtually no coffee...maybe it was the
time of year (Oct/Nov) but Cassis, on the French riviera, was way too crowded
and filled with tourists...the town of Gordes is absolutely exquisite, and
was almost neglected in the book....Arles' streets were so claustrophobic
and filled with constant traffic, that it proved hazardous walking down
the street...the Vitamine restaurant in Arles was a bit disappointing...
We loved Brugge, Amboise, Lyon....
kerry <email>
Vancouver, BC Canada 12/22/02
France
Paris: Stayed at Hotel Muguet in the Rue cler district Rooms were small
but quaint, well worth the price. Loved Cafe DU Marche in rue cler great
food and friendly staff Best tip for Paris: Hire a shuttle to the hotel
from the airport best 30 euro we spent when you are jet lagged it is so
nice to see your driver there w/ your name on a board waiting for you plus
you get a mini driving tour of Paris. Check with airport shuttle.com
SARLAT: wonderful town, Stayed at Hotel Des Recollets. First the man at the front desk pretended not to speak English, then when we asked to see a different room (as ours was of very poor quality, not at all what is advertised/Bait and Switch?) He demanded the key back in perfect english. Knowing there are no other rooms available in town. Would have been fine if he would have just said that this is the last room we have instead of being a total snot. He also refused to call a cab for us when we departed as we were suffering from bad colds and did not want to schlep our bags over a mile to the station. AVOID Des Recollets!! But still go to Sarlat anyway.
Arles: again wonderful Stayed at Hotel De Musee. By the river and well located, Nice staff and help there but parking was scarce.
Carcassonne: Book ahead! Excellent town can be seen in an afternoon or
evening. great photo opportunities here.
A Choate <email>
portland, OR USA 12/13/02
L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue — Accomodations
We have used your guidebooks for majority of all our travel in Europe. However,
found your France book limited in the area of B & B type accomodations in
the Isle sur la Sorgue area of Provence, which is a town you highly recommend.
I encourage you to add Le Pigeonnier a wonderful Bed & Breakfast we found
owned by Corrine Manni & her husband Gilles to your France Guidebook. For
only $68 US dollars a night you get a king size bed, beautiful bathroom
(with shower/toilet), full breakfast and inground pool. Corrine speaks English.
Can be emailed at "corrine.manni&wanadoo.fr". Also has web address of "biquette.pacwan.net/jfleroi/84/pigeonnier/ukindex.htm".
Corrine and her family are the warmest people and just bend over backwards
for their guests. I really hope you will consider adding them to your France
guidebook.
Laurie Danajovits <email>
Canton, CT USA 11/21/02
Brittany
85-year-old (who led European tours for years) was on a "roots" quest to
Normandy where ancestor left for Quebec in 1640. A most marvelous time.
Thereafter, turned to Rick's 1999 book on France. He advised Dinan, in Brittany.
Score one. Advised Hotel les Grandes Tours. A fine two story room: score
two. Advised dining at Le St. Louis. Fantastic Score Three. Rick is a real
winner!
Nelson F. Norman <email>
El Cajon, CA USA 11/19/02
Acco-Dispo in the Loire
The Acco-Dispo tour in the Loire was great. Pascal is a great narrator and
very informative. One suggestion I would make is to request his van. The
other van is connected via intercom and while I wasn't in it, I can't imagine
the experience is quite the same as he would point out references from our
van's point of view
Theresa <email>
Newcastle-Upon-Tyne, UK 11/18/02
Bruges-Hotel
We just returned from a trip from Amsterdam-Bruges-Normandy-Bastogne. The
absolute highlight of the trip was our visit to Bruges and our stay at the
Hotel Adornes. Our room was clean, charming, and had a lovely view over
the canal. The special attraction there is Natalie, an English speaking
lady who runs the front desk. She is very helpful and knowlegable. We found
her to be the most professional person in the hospitality industry with
whom we had contact on our trip.
Mary McNaught <email>
Pinnacle, NC USA 11/16/02
Loire Valley, Provence
Stayed at Hotel Bellevue in Amboise which was quite suitable, but
upon making reservations, it turned out we had mistakenly made them for
Hotel Bellevue in MontRichard, a town 100 mi. or so away (and prepaid).
The MontRichard Bellevue was lovely and refunded our money and the Amboise
Bellevue had room for us. And while we were there, the Rick Steves tour
group arrived! We didn't know there were tours and wished we were with them.
In Provence we stayed 4 nights in Arles in Hotel l'Amphitheatre (recommended
by Rick), and it was the greatest! Lovely remodeled hotel, wonderful ambiance,
very large room with fresh flowers upon our arrival...thought we were in
heaven.
Judy Erickson <email>
Santa Rosa, CA USA 11/09/02
Bruges accomodations
We just got back from London, Paris, Amsterdam and Bruges. By far, the highlight
was staying with Frieda and Benno at the Absoluut Verhulst in Bruges. They
gave recommendations for shops, chocolates and restaurants. Their breakfast
was wonderful. Great place.
Kathy <email>
Santa Clara, CA USA 11/05/02
Amsterdam Tram Tour
We just returned from Amsterdam where we tried to take Rick's recommended
#20 Tram Tour. As of 9/23/02 the #20 tram is no longer in operation.
Julie M. <email>
Omaha, NE USA 11/03/02
Bruges / Amsterdam
My fiancee and I agree with Rick that Bruges is a wonderful place to visit
but what he doesn't mention in his book is that Bruges can be very difficult
to navigate. Winding streets trick you into believing you're heading in
one direction and you end up in the opposite. In all my years of traveling
all around the world, Bruges was by far the most confusing. Arm yourself
with a good map, comfortable shoes and some extra time to find the place
you are looking for. We also felt that it was preferable to stay in Amsterdam
rather than in Haarlem if you want to enjoy all the nightlife Amsterdam has
to offer.
Mare <email>
New York, NY USA 11/02/02
TGV to Southern France
We just returned from a great trip to southern France, using Rick's book
as our guide. We took the TGV from Paris to Avignon, and then again from
Avignon to Nice, as we were staying in Antibes (per Rick's recommendation).
What we didn't know was that our TGV actually stopped in Antibes before
arriving in Nice. Had we known that, we would have gotten off the train
in Antibes and picked up a rental car there. Instead, we had to go to Nice,
pick up the rental car (we had arranged this before we left home), and then
drive all the way back to Antibes. So, I suggest that Rick add a note in
the "Antibes" section of the guidebook that indicates that the TGV stops
there, on the way to Nice and on the way back to Avignon and Paris as well,
so that others won't do what we did! Thanks!
Leslie Tedrow <email>
Palo Alto, CA USA 10/30/02
Loire chateaux tour
Another vote for the wonderful Acco-Dispo tour of the Loire chateaux. Pascal,
the tour guide, gave a great running commentary throught the tour. And the
ongoing view of the Loire countryside was, for me, as interestng as the
chateaux themselves. If you're taking the all-day tour, I highly recommend
the Bigot restaurant in Amboise for lunch (and don't forget their chocolates!).
One thing to note if you're arriving in Amboise by train for the tour — it's
about a 20 minute walk from the train station to the tour pick-up point,
so plan accordingly.
Mark <email>
Chicago, IL USA 10/29/02
Amboise, La Breche
Amboise was a good base in the Loire as promised for our October visit.
We stayed at La Breche for its convenience to the train station. Hosts Christian
(in person, helpful English language suggestions on the local area) and
Ann Marie (polite e-mail confirmation) were great. The bathroom was tacky,
with mold, cracked paint, and a cracked sink, but the dining room was a
work of art. No dinner served Sunday and Monday night at this time of year.
The bike shop near the hotel (Cycles Richard) was closed Mondays, but the
bike shop the center of town (Loca Cycle, good bikes, no English) saved
us.
Dave Rynerson <email>
Seattle, WA USA 10/28/02
France guidebook
We went to France in September and it was our 4th trip to Europe. We've
used Rick's books on every trip and have found them to be extremely useful.
In Bayeux, we stayed at the recommended Hotel d'Argouges, a really nice
place.
In Amboise, we used the recommended Acco-Dispo minibus tour to get to Chambord and Chenonceau. Pascal, the owner, drove our van. Pascal's a nice guy who speaks good English and we enjoyed the trip very much. Chambord is huge but not all that interesting inside, while Chenonceau is a nice size and beautiful. We stayed at Hotel La Breche, a nice place but we thought the mandatory dinner meals were only so-so. Le Clos Luce, Leonardo da Vinci's last home, was very interesting, especially for Leonardo fans.
In Sarlat, we stayed at the Hotel La Couleuvrine. Nice place but noisy in the front, where there's a large parking lot and lots of traffic. We used the recommended Allo-Taxi to get to Beynac and to the Souillac train station. It's driven by Philippe, a really nice and impishly funny guy who speaks excellent English. He was delighted when we shared the off color words fom Rick's French-German-Italian phrase book with him. He seemed pleasantly surprised to learn that Rick's book had these words.
At the Chateau in Beynac, the book indicates on page 167 that you must go with a French speaking guide. When we followed the guide, she told us that it was not necessary to stay with her. When getting off the train at Carcassonne, the listed bus #8 on page 188 does not exist. Hotel Montmorency at the entrance to La Cite was almost too nice in a front door kind of way. However, it's a very good value. La Cite is interesting but odd. A nifty medieval fortress that has lots of tourist shops and restaurants on the inside. Arles — what can we say except that it was one of our favorite places in France. The Roman ruins make it feel like a small Rome, and the Hotel Calendal was just right for the setting. We loved Arles for the people and sites. We also had some of our best meals in Arles. Nice is a large and noisy city. The beach reminded us of Waikiki, but the old city was very interesting. Castle Hill was a nice diversion and was full of local families enjoying themselves on a Sunday afternoon. We stayed at the Hotel Trianon, which the map on page 249 indicates is in Old Nice but is actually just a few blocks from the train station. The Hotel was nice enough but we were disappointed to not stay in Old Nice. The map needs correcting.
Beaune is beautiful with great wine country ambience and the recommended Hotel de la Paix was very nice. We rode Le Choo Choo, the little train that seem to be present in all the small towns. (They're not true trains because they don't run on tracks.) The one in Beaune took us through the town and into a vineyard right outside of town. A good, cheap way to spend a half hour.
Colmar is beautiful and fascinating. The Hotel Turenne was a bit on the
front door side but a good value. The directions on getting to this hotel
are very incomplete, like something was lost in the editing process. We
had to ask locals how to get there, which is OK because we like talking
to locals, but the directions should really be fixed. Any criticisms are
meant in the spirit of improving what we already think are valuable books.
We won't go to Europe without them.
Don and Diane Rake <email>
West Sacramento, CA USA 10/18/02
Bruges Lace Center
I just found a web site for the Lace Center in Bruges: http://www.kantcentrum.com
Karin
NC USA 10/17/02
France/Belgium tips
Have just returned from France and Belgium using your book, and it was great!!
We especially enjoyed the hospitality, quaintness, restaurant, location,
EVERYTHING, about La Roseraie in Chenonceaux, France- we will definitely
return!Also, your Hotel D'Argouges in Bayeux was excellent- breakfast, hostess,
price, quaintness, location, especially when we awoke Saturday morning to
find the town square outside our hotel converted to an AMAZING marketplace,
which was great fun to explore.
In Beaune France, you might research L'Hotel Bretonniere; we found it quite a bargain , downtown, quaint, friendly. In Reichstett, near Strasbourg, we can also recommend a charming small inn with a lovely breakfast, rooms, and hostess who speaks fluent English, sans big city traffic- it is called L'Aigle D'Or.
On the minus side, we believe you have made a grave error in omitting the Canadian battle memorial of Vimy Ridge near Arras- it was very moving and very interesting ( of course, being Canadian, we are a bit predjudiced! ) We feel it is a must see for any traveller interested in war history.
At the Memorial in Caen, which was great, we received no map of the massive place; the clerk sold us a small book which she implied had a map in it, but it didn't; the price has gone up to 16E each!
In Belgium, we also feel the unique and beautiful town of
Leuven deserves a mention. The buildings are very impressive, the people
are warm and friendly, the food is every bit as good as France's , and much
cheaper. In conclusion, we will now buy RS books whenever we travel- keep
up the great work!!
Lynn and John Near <email>
Chatham, Ontario, On Canada 10/15/02
France
Traveling around the French countryside can be a challenge for a vegetarian
— Le Robinson restaurant in Albi was a great recommendation — it was
very different, staff was great and they even had a vegetarian selection.
In Bayeaux the Le Pommier restaurant at 38-40 rue des Cuisiniers has a prix
fix vegetarian selection — a happy find after reading nearly every menu
in town! Might want to add this to the France book.
Other highlights from
15 days in France: the Hotel Donjon in Carcassone was a pleasant surprise;
the Hotel Roseraie in Chenceneaux was great too. Highly recommend stopping
at Oradour Sur-Glaine, hard to put into words the essence of the place....Mont.
St. Michel, Dinan, the D-Day beaches, all worthwhile. Had a great time
thanks to all the great tips in the France book.
Debbie Schonenberg <email>
San Diego, CA USA 10/14/02
Paris, Alsace
We visited France in June, including Paris (twice), Reims and Colmar. Used
the book extensively. In Paris stayed at the Tourville. It was a little
pricey by Rick's standards but clean, AIR CONDITIONED and convenient. I'm
sure the I'm being redundant by saying that Rue Cler was just as enjoyable
as the book says it is. We were well treated at the Flo Brasserie when we
arrived late and desperately needed sustenance. Great stuff and nice people.
Colmar is beautiful. Unfortunately we ran into a heat wave and roasted but
the town is well worth seeing as are the many other towns of Alsace. Equisheim
is especially nice. A rental car makes them easily accessable. Colmar is
an excellent home base. If you enjoy wine, don't miss Alsace. The tastings
and meals are great. I had enought sauerkraut for a year. If you want to
try a Michelin three star, L'Auberge de L'Ille is a good bet; very expensive
but not bad by three star standards. It's an elegant place for a special
celebration.
Ed <email>
Silver Spring, MD USA 10/08/02
More Bruges...
Our B&B recommended a great restaurant in Bruges: Grand Kaffee de Passage
at 26 Dweersstraat. Food & prices were both great. Fun & friendly place.
We accidentally went to the Gruuthuse Museum, next to the Church of Our
Lady (thinking it was the museum more highly recommended by Rick Steves — and not realizing until the end of our tour). My husband really liked
it! He ranks it higher than Rick did. I really liked the tapestries,
but wasn't quite as intrigued. Best waffles we had (waffles with ice cream!)
were at a restaurant directly across the street from the Hotel Ibis!
Karin
NC USA 10/04/02
Bruges, Belgium
Just returned from 3 weeks in Europe (Belgium, Germany, & France)!! We flew
into Brussels & headed immediately by train to Bruges for 2 nights. Stayed
at the Marieke B&B, which was recommended on this site by someone last year.
It was great!! Web site: http://users.belgacom.net/marieke The owners are
very nice & speak English! The rates were great too!! Our room was *very*
nice — with a view over the canal! :) They also have a computer downstairs
which they let us use for free to check email. It's not right in the center
of town, but it's very close — not a bad walk at all. We took a bus from
the train station to the B&B when we arrived — be sure to tell the driver
which stop you want — we missed our stop!! Bruges is wonderful!!! Adorable
canals (take a boat ride!), wonderful little streets to explore, waffles,
mussels, fries, chocolate, beer... what more could you want? ;)
Karin
NC USA 10/04/02
Paris-Amsterdam Trains — at least 12X/day
Re: the previous poster who said that trains Paris-Amsterdam do not run 12X a day like
Rick's book claimed. This may be true of the direct Thalys trains, but there
are Thalys trains about 3X an HOUR between Paris and Brussels, and there
commuter trains about 1X per hour between Brussels and Amsterdam (an easy
connection to make at Midi station). So I'd say there are AT LEAST twelve
train connections per day between Paris and Amsterdam.
Andrew H <email>
Portland, OR USA 09/27/02
fan club continued
The Rick Steves book in Paris was crucial and no other guidebook comes close.
In a place like Paris where there is more to do than there is time to do
it in, you need opinions so you can be efficient with your time. Other guidebooks
try to be exhaustive, listing all the museums. But when time and
energy do not permit one to visit them all, you need a source that is highly
opinionated, and that's what Rick Steves is. You can ask a few friends for
their opinions, but a professional opinion is more reliable. Secondly, if
you do the walking tours and see the sites, the book serves as a great souvenir,
because it shows in detail what you did and saw.
NY USA 09/27/02
Rick Steves fan club
I wanted to say thanks to the Rick Steves organization for their wonderful
Paris book. My first time traveling in another country, traveling alone,
not speaking the language, I was a little apprehensive. But thanks to Rick,
I was throroughly enjoying every moment. I quickly found that my likes/dislikes
and that of RS were the same. So when the book said turn left and look up,
I did whatever it said. At times it felt like a hunt, searching for the
sites or museum pieces that Rick Steves focused on, which was fun too. I
even felt like I wasn't alone with the book in hand telling me exactly what
to do & where to go. You only steered me wrong once and I forgive you. Trains
from Paris to Amsterdam do NOT run 12 times per day. So thanks again, and
next year when I go to Italy, we go together.
NY USA 09/27/02
Normandy, Brussels
Rick and Steve's "France, Belgium, & The Netherlands 2002" book was a great
help on my recent trip. A few comments:
Normandy/Bayeux: though it "makes a great home base" for touring the D-Day beaches (P. 121), it is a very sleepy town at night. Good luck getting a meal after 21:30. Caen may be further away and not as "old" feeling, but it is an exciting, interesting city. Wish I'd spent two nights in Caen and only one in Bayeux instead of the other way around. Stayed at the Hotel Du Havre in Caen — modern, colorful, small, but comfortable; centrally located (free car park, but a 10 to 15-min walk to the train station); owner speaks no English but is friendly and helpful.
Hotel Mogador (P. 125) in Bayeux was a great recommendation. I got a large room with a double bed, modern bathroom, friendly welcome. They have no email yet so if other places you can book via the internet are full, try calling the Mogador (most people will try the internet options first); owned by a couple, the husband speaks English well to make your reservation via the phone.
Brussels: 5-hour stopover on the Paris-Amsterdam train trip (p. 357), worked well. Somehow I got the impression (P. 358-359) from the book that there are special shuttle trains between stations, but you just ride the regular commuter trains that happen to go between the three Brussels stations. Easy to do, but you might wait 20 min for a train at mid-day. And someone at an info desk told me the trains are FREE between stations; the book hints you legally ought to pay 1.35 EUR though the "conductors rarely check".
Leaving luggage at Brussels Midi works great — both lockers and a luggage desk — but for the lockers you need EXACT change (lockers will not take too little OR too much), and good luck getting change at the station without buying something.
People in Brussels were friendly. Three regular people (not asking for money) in five hours came up to me and asked me (not always in English) where I was visiting from. That never happened to me anywhere else I visited in Europe (Paris, Normandy, Amsterdam)! I intend to visit Belgium again for that reason alone.
Stopover in Brussels cost me nothing but time; the direct Paris-Amsterdam
Thalys train costs about the same as taking Thalys Paris-Brussels then
a "commuter" (IC) train from Brussels to Amsterdam.
Andrew H <email>
Portland, OR USA 09/26/02
Steer clear of La Caillerie
In Normandy, I'd stay away from the La Callerie B&B near Cahagnes. Owned
by 2 Englishwomen who seem ambivalent about having guests in their house.
Examples: Sitting room (where TV was) locked when they weren't home. House
closed and locked between 10:30 am and 4:30 pm. Big red rulebook in each
room. Extra charge for everything! There are plenty of other places to stay
in the area, so look around.
Joanne <email>
San Diego, CA USA 09/24/02
Hotel in Bruges
I highly recommend the Hotel Adornes in Bruges, Belgium. The accomodations
were excellent, romantic, and the staff very helpful and friendly. Bruges
is a wonderful place to stay.
Gail Delfosse <email>
Boise, ID USA 09/23/02
FRANCE
Our family spent 16 days in August driving around France, and Rick's book
was invaluable. It was our third trip to France, and previous visits centered
only around Paris. Malcolm Miller's tour at Chartres' cathedral is outstanding — Hotel Chatelet nearby is a gem.
Amboise is a wondeful home base for chateaux touring and the Hotel La Breche is a winner. Three other American families with Rick's book were staying at the hotel with us! Monaco is spectacular and we followed Rick's tips on touring, and parked and rode bus #2 to Monaco-Ville. The Azure Express shuttle at 6 euros/person is a good way to see the port and Monte-Carlo. Tour the Palace and the Napolean Museum, too. Annecy's old city is delightful and the Kyriad Hotel/Annecy Centre is very convenient. The Bayeux tapestry (with headphones) is a must-see. The Normandy D-Day maps and info. are so helpful. If you take the recommendation to see Mont St. Michel after 5 p.m. you will miss the tour of the abbey.
We would rate Giverny higher than 1 triangle, but we are Monet fans
and were on a return visit. We booked the Hotel Ibis at CDG Airport for
our final night, and our return flight home was a short shuttle-bus ride
away. We confirmed all our hotel reservations beforehand via e-mail, and
were pleased with hotels Rick listed except Arles' Hotel Le Calendal —
front desk personnel were rude and very disinterested. We should have
booked at the Hotel Regence or skipped Arles (parking is impossible).
For our next trip, we will use no travelers cheques (few places to cash — banks refused), insist on small euro bills (20 preferred and they suspect
a 50 is counterfeit!), and carry another Rick Steve's guide book!
Helen Sessions <email>
Decatur, GA USA 09/23/02
Best of Europe
Just came back from a 10-day quickie to Amsterdam/Rhinevalley/Munich/Vienna/Paris.
I was hardly prepared for the trip due to busy work schedule before the
holiday. I didn't know about Rick steves until i chanced upon it in the
bookstore, a day before i left on the trip. I took the Best of Europe edition
hoping it will be of "some" use. But, as i started reading it in the flight
journey to Amsterdam, it seemed a perfect guide to have for the trip.
I was constantly referring to Rick's book at every place i went to. For sights, for hotel suggestions, for food etc. It was a constant companion. My friend who accompanied me was initially sceptical but was won over by Rick's tips a few days in the trip.
The joke was in almost every place, we found travellers with Rick steve's book in their hands! A restaurant owner mentioned all "these Americans" come with Rick Steves' guide books. It was quite funny.
I had just a day and half to cover Paris and Rick's book was really
useful. For eg. Notre Dame- the best part of the cathedral structure is
in the facade which Rick mentions in detail. If not for the book, we
would have missed it for sure.
Thanks!
Raj <email>
Richmond, VA USA 09/21/02
Further Belgian Stuff
Re: eating in Brussels. Granted, the Grand Place is very touristy. But don't
forget that it's also the administrative center of Brussels... and the people
who work in those offices have to eat too!
For a memorable meal, try 't Kelderke, a fairly small cellar restaurant where gruff but friendly waiters serve hearty Belgian/French food at reasonable prices. Le Roi d'Espagne is a great place for a drink, especially one of the window tables on the upper 3 levels. If you're missing Starbucks, the local Jacqmotte chain has a branch right on the Grand'Place.
If you're willing to go a bit farther afield, check out the restaurants on Place de la Vieille Halle au Blé, just up the hill from the Manneken-Pis. The restaurants in the Ilot Sacré (except for Léon de Bruxelles) are notorious for ripping off tourists; however, the experience of wandering down the 'restaurant street' has been made a bit more pleasant by the enactment of a law forbidding restaurant staff to harass passers-by.
Just west of the Bourse, the St.-Géry and Ste.-Catherine areas are packed with wonderful bars, cafés, and brasseries.
On a completely different topic: those of you interested in nude recreation
will be pleased to know that there is now a clothing-optional beach on
the Belgian coast. It's between Bredene and De Haan, and so well marked
that you can't miss it. (It's closed now, obviously.)
Peter <email>
Brussels, Belgium 09/18/02
Angers
I spend 4 weeks in Angers this summer. I think it deserves a spot in your
book. The Apocalypse tapestries and the contemporary tapestries are a must
see in my book. Also, don't miss the Cointreau Museum.
Amiens needs attention. They have a show where they light the cathedral
with colored lights to make the statues appear painted. You should add
the Puy de Fou to your book as well.
Ed Sachnik <email>
houston, tx USA 09/09/02
Amsterdam/Haarlem
Once again Rick's book made our trip! From the audioguides and top 20 at
the Rijksmusuem to splitting the ricetable at the Nanking Restaurant in
Haarlem, we were impressed. Some suggestions we might add:
In Amsterdam, see the Dutch Resistance Museum before seeing the Anne Frank house or the Corrie Ten Boom Museum in Haarlem. Your appreciation for their experiences will be so much greater.
In our opinion, the Aalsmeer Flower Auction deserves another star...it was incredible. We had never seen flowers of such colors, quantity and quality moving at warpspeed. When visiting by car, follow the signs from Aalsmeer to the "Bloemenveiling" off N-231. Go before 10 AM and plan to spend at least 1 hour figuring out the auction boards and the transportation system.
And lastly, the Troppenmuseum is remodelling the first 2 floors. Start
at the top and work your way down.
Sherri <email>
Wuerzburg, GE 09/08/02
Amsterdam, Brugge, Paris
Just returned from two weeks in Amsterdam, Brugge and Paris. Amsterdam was
crowded and dirty. Floriade was OK but not special. Stayed at Canal House
in Amsterdam. Very nice people who speak proper British English. Top notch
breakfast with cereals, breads, cheeses, meats, eggs, juice and coffee.
Hotel is a little beat up. Room was small, hot and stuffy at 150 Euro per
night.
Brugge was wonderful. Many historic churches. Pretty town. Delightful hotel: Hansa Hotel clean and nice, great breakfasts (even better than Canal House but not by much,) free Internet access. Air conditioned. Rate 165 Euro per night.
Paris big, busy, crowded, but much to see. Stayed at Hotel Des Grandes
Ecoles, which is somewhat beat up. Elevator barely accomodates two. Courtyard
is cute but cobblestone, which means that rollaboard suitcases make a
terrible racket. Also, partygoers returning late at night may wake you,
as they did us. No air conditioning. Rate 95 Euro per night. Breakfast
only fair and costs extra (7 Euro per person, 10 if you have juice.)Croissants,
bread, jam and coffee. Interesting neighborhood that really begins to
roll in late afternoon (lots of people on the streets and in the streetside
cafes.) Laundromat only yards away from hotel, but not real clean. Internet
access a block away on Descartes street.
Geo
Costa Mesa, CA USA 09/08/02
Unfair business practice Chateau Taulignan
The Chateau Taulignan near Vaison la Romaine charged my credit card 50 Euros
for what it calls "an early cancellation fee". I had made a telephone reservation
for 2 rooms for 1 night, had given my credit card number as requested to
hold the booking; 5 days later I cancelled the reservation (this was over
3 weeks prior to the date of the reservation). When my credit card bill
arrived, the Chateau had charged 50 Euros. When I questioned the 50 Euro
charge, I was told that it was "an early cancellation fee". I told them
that I had not been informed at the time of the booking about such a fee,
that their web page does not publicize such a fee, that the Rick Steves
book, the chambre d'hote book and the Vaucluse tour books do not mention
this fee, and I asked them where it was published. They repeatedly just
say that they have such a fee. I would suggest you remove this place from
your list of recommendations. There is no hotel in the world that charges
a fee for cancellation 3 weeks prior for a 1 night stay, and then has no
notice to the public to back up its cancellation policy.
Dollie Llanso <email>
geneva, CH 09/04/02
Holland, Belgium and Normandy
We're just back from two weeks and were in Haarlem for the Jazz Festival,
too! I understand the the event pulled in about 150,000 people a night.
Haarlem itself is really a very nice town with incredibly nice people who
went out of their way to meet us. We found if we sat down anywhere, someone
would strike up a conversation. It was the only place we had that experience.
I'd never stay in Amsterdam over Haarlem. Our most enjoyable experience
was watching traffic in the morning as buses, cars and bicycles their way
to work. It's like a ballet.
We spent a day and a half in Amsterdam at the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum and the Anne Frank house. It's a very tired city that just screams for relief. The Floriade is worth a day and is an easy bus ride from the train station. We also enjoyed a few hours at Zaanse Schans. It's a bit touristy but is tastefully done. The biggest surprise was the resort at Zandvoort — this boardwalk and beach must go for miles.
Belgium is wonderful and really does not get the credit it is due. Brussels is an easy city to navigate on foot or by metro. The Grand Place is gorgeous but don't count on getting a meal there. Instead, head for the Ilot Sacre. Really though, you simply cannot get a bad meal in Belgium. Just walking through this street with back to back restaurants is a fun experience. We stayed at the Queen Anne hotel and had a blast trying to figure out the machines in the laundromat a few blocks away.
Waterloo is easy to get to by train but be prepared to walk about a mile to the TI where you not only can see the Wellington museum but can catch the bus to the battlefield.
Ghent was a worthwile trip from Brussels, as well. Take the tram from the station to St. Baafs Cathedral and get a walking guide from the TI next door.
We spent four days in Bruges and probably could have spent four more. If you go, make sure you get out of the center of town and into the neighborhoods. There's a lot to see in this city and not all of it is in that area. The Jerusalem Chapel is very interesting as well as the folkloric museum.
We really enjoyed driving in Normandy. It is beautiful countryside and the roads are good. Mont St. Michel is worth a few hours. Get there early as the parking lot fills up fast!
Bayeux is a beautiful little town and the tapestry is a must see. We were there in the middle of the day and had it all to ourselves. The countryside looks much like the midwest.
If you know a bit of WWII history, you'll almost feel the anticipation
of the German soldiers and the fear of the Allies when they encountered
the hedgerows that the intelligence hadn't revealed. The American D-Day
Memorial and beach at Omaha are very moving. Best of all, if you're driving
at sunset, you can't miss the way the sun sets on the hayfields. It's
just like a Van Gogh painting!
Dawn
Cottage Grove, MN USA 09/03/02
Netherlands-Belgium
During a trip to Holland and Belgium this past Spring, I found that all
the beautiful town squares (except in Brugge) were taken up with what we
call "carnivals". Very disappointing. You may want to check on what dates
this happens -I think it may go on for a month or more in late Spring.
Judy <email>
Perkasie, PA USA 09/03/02
Self Catering, B & B's in France
Thanks to someone on this board we found the French Connections website:
www.frenchconnections.co.uk We used this site to book two of our accomodations
in France- one night in an old Chateau (b&b)in Chinon and a week in the
Dordogne (self catering). Both were fabulous and very accurately represented
by their web page. You book directly with the owners and there is a wide
variety of choices. I highly recommend this site.
Karen <email>
Atlanta, GA USA 08/28/02
France, Belgium & the Netherlands
Just spent 14 days using Rick's France, Belgium & the Netherlands book.
The information, as usual, was excellent and invaluable. However, a few
minor nits to add in the future:
Comments on Bruges part: — Pannekoekenhuisjje — has a differnet name. We only found it by the address and on the side, in chalk on a blackboard was this title. We were puzzeled for a long time and though either we were lost or the place had changed since Rick last reviewed it.
Some comments on Haarlem: We found Haarlem to be much nicer then Amsterdam — might want to add Harleem Ans Zee restaurant near
the main square, can be pricey depending on what you get but excellent
food. Numerous people in town recomended it. Might want to mention the
jazz festival in mid august — probably not a good time to book a hotel
on the square, such as the Amadeus . De Lachende Javaan was very good
but they really discouraged us from the plate splitting option. So we
bought extra food and had way too much to eat. The train "tour" from
Amsterdam to Haarleem is boring — just tell people to look out the window,
very pretty. Either we missed the landmarks or some new construction is
blocking the drive-through brothel. The other "sights" are real "non sights".
Eriol <email>
Webster, TX USA 08/22/02
Versailles
6/02 — The gardens at Versailles are no longer free; it costs 6 Euros to
enter. The canal and hamlet and such are still free — you would need to
go around the gates outside of the palace to avoid paying to go through
the gardens.
Leslie <email>
WI USA 08/22/02
Latour Maubourg — not always good
We totally disagree with Kirsten regarding Latour Maubourg. I suppose it's
all by chance. They were not very helpful and rather stuffy to my whole
family.
CA USA 08/21/02
Noted from a Month in France
Just returned from a month in France, and Rick's guide was invaluable. However,
I do have some quick additions and corrections.
In Paris, the price for the Hotel de la Paix is increased due to remodeling. It is no longer 54 euros for a double, but 80 euros. This hotel is not worth 80 euros.
If you will be staying in Normandy without a car, then book the D-Day tour put together by the Caen Memorial. It begins in the morning with a guided tour of the Memorial, includes a decent lunch, and ends with a guided tour of just about every major D-Day related site (Arromanches, Longue sur Mer,Ponte du Hoc, Omaha Beach, and the American, German, and British cemeteries). It can be booked on-line through the Memorial's web-site.
My Arles experience was ruined by the Hotel La Gallia. Listed by Rick
as a steal, this hotel should be removed from the guidebook (a sentiment
I saw on another post on this message board). It is not clean, and more
importantly not safe. My last night in Arles I was woken up by an altercation
in the courtyard of my hotel. there were men screaming and I heard the
sound of glass breaking. the entrance to the hotel is on a dark alley.
Do not stay here.
Andrew Dressel <email>
Edison, NJ USA 08/17/02
Top Rick Recommended Things in France
Just got back from 3 1/2 weeks in France. Thanks to Rick we enjoyed the
following:
1. Dinner at Chez Agnes in Paris — she seemed a bit abrupt at first but by the end of our meal we were laughing, exchanging gifts, etc. What a fun night!
2. The D-Day Museum at Caen — Don't miss this! Rick says 2 1/2 hours minimum, we stayed 4 and still rushed through quite a bit of it. It is one of the best museums I've ever been to — and my two teens agree.
3. Other D-Day sights — this was a moving experience for our entire family — from the German and American cemetaries to the old bunkers at Point d'Hoc.
4. Seeing the Bayeaux Tapestry — we got the audio guide and actually did look at it several times.
5. The Hotel La Roseraie in Chenenceaux — Sophie and Laurent were the best hosts ever. Our room — the two bedroom family apartment was HUGE! We ate dinner there both nights because after the first night I wouldn't dream of going elsewhere — absolutely fabulous food.
6. The Dordogne — the Dutch and English have discovered this place alright, but few Americans. Castles, Cro-Magnum sites, scenery, medieval towns — what's not to love?
7. Basilica Sainte Cecile in Albi — what an amazing structure.
8. The Languedoc region — the incredible Cathar Castles perched high
on top of rock mountains. If you stay in Caunes Minervois you must ask
them to call Restaurant L'oustal in Citou for you. This meal, a Table
d'Hote served by a gentleman and his wife at what looks like their dining
room table, was a one of a kind experience.
Karen <email>
Atlanta, GA USA 08/13/02
LaTour Maubourg Is a Great Place!
While looking through Rick's "Best of Europe Book" for my upcoming trip
to London, I glanced in the Paris section to see what was said about Latour
Maubourg — my favorite little hotel in Paris. I was so disappointed to
see that Rick wrote the owner was rude and the hotel erratically run! This
is just not true! (maybe Rick caught them on a bad day). This hotel is a
great find!
I cannot imagine staying at another place while in Paris! Victor and Marie went out of their way to be helpful, checking on strikes and train schedules without us even asking. In the morning, Marie would serve breakfast and we would chat about anything and everything. She is a very savvy woman who speaks at least 4 languages fluently. I also loved seing Faust, their beagle, every morning and night when we got home. You really get the personal touch here.
The rooms were plenty big with great linens and nice down comforters.
The hotel from the outside looks like a quaint manor home. We just loved
walking up to it and feeling like we were coming home. The common areas
are very charming. What a great place! Although I pretty much only rely
on Rick's recommondations when traveling in Europe, this is one time to
disregard what is said in his book — for sure! (Sorry Rick)
Kirsten Roddy <email>
Chicago, IL USA 08/08/02
Bruges & Brussels
We spent 3 days in Bruges and loved every minute. Took the Quasimodo bike
trip to Damme and the Flanders Fields bus trip — would recommend both. Enjoyed
mussels and waffles at Hennon and a splurge dinner at De Stove.
I would skip Brussels unless one of the museums is of interest — even
the Grand Place didn't appeal to me. The staff of the Hotel Welcome is
charming, but the hotel is in the midst of a remodel and not charming
at the moment. They told us they will be closed in August and should be
finished by the fall. Check before you go.
Ginny <email>
Walnut Creek, Ca USA 08/08/02
Chateau Nazelles
We agree wholeheartedly regarding Chateau Nazelles. We were there in April.
It is a wonderful place — the grounds alone are so beautiful that you can
just walk around and explore. We took about 2 rolls of pictures at this
property! The hosts, Oliver and Veronique, were so friendly and pleasant
and took care of anything that we needed. We stayed in the stand alone house
in the back and it was so quiet and relaxing. It had an unusual shower carved
out of the natural rock, which we loved. This B&B is a real value and a
perfect location for exploring the Loire Valley. Our stay was the highlight
of our France trip.
Lori and Jack Hopp <email>
Cleveland, OH USA 08/04/02
Le mas des Carassins in St. Remy
Hotel Le Mas des Carassins in St. Remy in Provence is a great place to stay
while touring in Provence. The rooms are bright and cheerful and best of
all airconditioned. The grounds including the pool are great. The rooms
run about 90 — 100 Euros without breakfast.
Elyce <email>
San Diego, CA USA 08/02/02
Chateau Nazelle
Chateau Nazelle is Amboise is fantastic. The new troglodyte rooms are beautiful.
Olivier and Veronique couldn't be any nicer or more helpful. This place
is a real find.
Elyce <email>
San Diego, CA USA 08/02/02
Hotel Champs du Mar
Hotel Champs du Mar — a great location. Beware . . . the rooms on the first
floor are very hot, noisy, and small.
Elyce Kaplan <email>
San Diego, CA USA 08/02/02
Brugge
Brugge was the greatest! We really enjoyed the 'small town' atmosphere.
The history and sights took us to a dream world that my daughter, 11, my
wife and I did not want to leave. Skip Amsterdam and Brussels if you must
BUT, Don't miss Brugge! There were no rooms in Brugge when we were there
three weeks ago. A little man that looked like Santa in blue, would not
leave us until he found us a room. It was 5 km from town and an easy bike
ride. It was one of the highlights of our trip. The chocolate is beyond
words! If you want to know where we stayed let me know.
Doug <email>
Youngsville, NC USA 07/31/02
More Belgian Stuff
I second the earlier recommendation of Mechelen. Unfortunately, the main
town square is completely ripped up right now; so even though the cathedral
is still worth visiting, the town itself may disappoint slightly. Incidentally,
if you're a railway buff, you might be interested in the fact that the world's
very first scheduled passenger rail service was between Brussels and Mechelen.
Another "beyond Rick" place not to miss is Dinant, on the Meuse in the foothills
of the Ardennes. It is dominated by a gigantic fortress, somewhat reminiscent
of the castle at Rocamadour but much less crowded. Take the "téléférique" to the top, where, if you understand French and/or Dutch, you can enjoy
a very comprehensive and interesting guided tour.
Peter
Brussels, Belgium 07/29/02
Collioure, France
Just returned from a month-long trip to Europe; two weeks of it through
France. We used Rick's book and it was very handy. Top picks in France —
Collioure, right on the Mediterranean on the Spain/France border...Rick is right when he says this is where you go for your vacation from your vacation. This place is gorgeous and laid-back minus all the tourists. We were there during holiday and it was still enjoyable. It is a bit of a trip to the city (6 hours by train from Paris) but it is well worth it. We spent 3 of the most lazy relaxing days here. We stayed at Hotel Templiers (Rick's suggestion) and found it very comfortable for the price. There are tons of little shops to while the afternoon in after you spend the morning at the beaches. This one city you won't be sorry you visited.
Versailles — I know, this is the top tourist pick, but just follow Rick's suggestion and get there early and make your tour reservations. We had a brilliant tour guide who really spent time with us and actually went over the allotted time but she was so interesting it didn't matter. Make sure you plan the time wisely- this is an all-day event; in fact we spent a day and a half here since we stayed overnight in Versailles at the Cheval Rouge (Rick's suggestion). The gardens are HUGE and that can take the most time, but it is well worth it. Sidenote — everything costs money here; the walking tours, the gardens, the main tour...not like England where many gardens are included in the price.
All in all, France is amazing and we only had one 'rude' encounter on
the train, and we came to the conclusion that this woman would have been
rude no matter what country we had been in. C'est la vie!
Sara <email>
Houston, TX USA 07/28/02
Belgium and Luxembourg: Beyond Rick
If you enjoy Rick’s recommendations in Brussels and Bruges, there
are many more gems in the “Be-Lux” region. Due to its compact
area, you can spend at least a week going from place to place on short (20
to 50 min.) train rides. We found Fodor’s to be a good source (though
we never found the charm suggested in Namur). Bruges is a wonderful place,
but is getting overrun. We loved Bruges’ Marieke B & B as outlined
on the Graffiti Board.
We agree with the other comments that Ghent is a worthwhile town to visit, with plenty of charm, history, guild houses, the Van Eyck polyptych and far fewer tourists than Bruges. Mechelen is another gem just a 20 min. train ride North of Brussels and far from most American tourist’s itineraries. It has something for everyone: a market square and cathedral, a beguinage, both a resistance and toy museum, and the Het Anker Brewery/Restaurant. We stayed in a terrific central, clean and modern guesthouse run by friendly and hospitable (they even picked us up at the train station) Fran and Ronny Von Buggenhout (www.mechelen.be/logies and fran.ronny@skynet.be).
Leuven (Louvain) is just East of the Brussels airport and a perfect first or last stop. It is a university town with beautiful squares, Belgium’s largest beguinage, and a city hall that is one of the most impressive examples of Brabant-Gothic architecture you will find.
One of our highlights was Antwerp, which welcomes you in its splendid, neo-Baroque train station, right next to its excellent zoo. Its historic center is anchored by the impressive Cathedral of Our Lady, which is surrounded by several magnificent squares that rival any European city. There are plenty of scenic lanes to stroll, Ruben’s masterpieces (in the cathedral, museums and his house), an old castle (Steen) along the river and great pubs. Must do’s include a De Konninck beer at Den Engel on the square with a view of the Cathedral and a Lindeman’s Kriek (cherry) beer on tap next to the Cathedral at Het Elfe Gebod. This is one of the most bizarre and interesting pubs we have visited anywhere, where you are surrounded by hundreds of old religious statues, lights and paraphernalia salvaged from local churches.
Beyond the North region, a rental car makes sense to visit the countryside, such as Boullion Castle and Orval Abbey. WWI history buffs must visit the Flanders Field area around Ieper (Ypres), which has an impressive museum and a stirring last post ceremony each evening at 8PM. A gem of a B & B is Camalou B & B (www.camalou.com), a converted farmhouse/brewery/WWI officers’ center several miles outside Ieper. Friendly and hospitable Annette Linthout will dispense advice on sights (she is a certified battlefield guide) and can be hired as a guide. She helped steer us to some of the more moving sights such as the Vladslo and Tyne Cot cemeteries and Hill 62, where some of the trenches and bomb craters are still intact.
Luxembourg provides a great 4-day loop, including the pretty capital, Luxembourg City and the many castles dotting the countryside (Vianden, Bourscheid, and La Rochette). Just an hour outside Lux. City is the pretty Moselle region – perfect for bicycling, wine tastings, etc. Ehnen’s Hotel Simmer is a great Moselle refuge serving excellent cuisine with old-world charm. We loved our Ardennes’ home base at Hotel du Parc in Clervaux, which overlooks the town and its castle and church. The castle houses a small but fascinating WWII museum and Steichen’s famous “Family of Man” photography exhibit. Visitors to the region will see many WWII reminders along the countryside, including tanks, diffused bombs and memorials. The USA and German cemeteries just outside Lux. City were moving. The best museums were in Diekirch and La Roche en Ardennes, Belgium. Skip the overpriced and disappointing “military fashion show” museum in Bastogne.
We highly recommend this “beyond Rick” region for its beauty,
architecture, history, art and, of course, the four basic food groups
of Belgium: mussels, frites, chocolate, and beer.
Celeste & David Gobeille <email>
Rehoboth, MA USA 07/28/02
B&B near St Malo
We had one of the best meals in France at Le Petit Moulin du Rouvre just
south of St Malo (and west of Mont St. Michel). Owner Regis Maillard served
us cidre made with apples from his property and bakes his own bread. The
food was to die for! Rooms were delightful and each has its own bath.
Audrey Logan <email>
London, Ontario, Canada, USA 07/27/02
Hotel Massena in Nice, France
I did not have as good a experience with Hotel Massena. My husband and I
stayed there for 4 nights during September of 2001. We reserved a privileged
double room for 1050FF per night(the most expensive kind of the three types
of rooms they have). But to our surprise, our room turned out to be very
small, not "spacious" as Rick's book has described. When I asked the desk
if we could move to a larger room, I was told that the larger rooms are
for 3 or 4 people, meaning for families who paid additional for extra persons.
I am sure when Rick went to have a look, they showed him the best rooms.
Mei Tzeng <email>
Boston, MA USA 07/25/02
Hotel Massena - Nice, France
Based on Rick's review, I stayed at this hotel for three nights in July
2002 and could not have been more pleased. Several items attracted us to
this hotel. They included a 4 star rating, a room that would sleep four
people (wife and two kids), secured valet parking and a central location
in Nice. The hotel staff was extremely friendly and went out of their way
to answer any questions we had. We were also pleased with the buffet breakfast
that we enjoyed every morning. Although Rick mentions that this hotel caters
heavily to business clientele, we felt extremely comfortable and it appeared
that all of the other guests were there on vacation as well.
John R
Chicago, IL USA 07/22/02
Best Chinese Food in Europe
Amsterdam, three blocks from Dam Square on Voorburgwal at the "Oriental
City" is perhaps the best Chinese food in Europe. Meals are great and prices
are mid range.
Gary Sholer <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA 07/21/02
Lunch or Dinner in Brugge
Belgian Waffles — If you have not tried them, it is a must. Different from
the plain boring ones in the US. These are great especially with the chocolate
syrup on them. Also a unexpected surprise was having one of our best meals
in Brugge at a Chinese restaurant named "Singapore Chinese Restraurant." You won't be disappointed with the quality nor the price
Gary Sholer <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA 07/21/02
Northen France
We traveled from Paris to Brittany and found "The Book" to be such an asset.
One of the most awesome sights was the German cemetary just outside of Mont.
St. Michel. Sitting up on the beauty of the French countryside was almost
surreal. There were 3 guys with my last name!! La Diege...at the base of
Mont. St. Michel had the best service we had during our entire trip. Using
Rick's books allowed us to thouroughly enjoy our time in France!!
Mark Hinkle <email>
Visalia, Ca USA 07/20/02
First Paris/Brussels Trip
Back in April my wife and I stayed in the Rue Cler District at the Hotel
De Turenne. The staff was helpful and the room quiet and comfortable. We
would definitely recommend it. It was very reasonable at 76.50 Euros a night.
One addition that is worth seeing is the Opera Garnier. The opera house (viewed during the day when there are no performances) is a beautiful building with grand halls and staircases. (Chagall painted the ceiling in the performance hall)
A nice place for lunch after seeing the Louvre is the Cafe Le Nemours which is across the street and had great service and wonderful food. GET THE MUSEUM PASS!
Later in Brussels we stayed at the Hotel Welcome and had an enjoyable stay. Rick's suggestion about using a money belt or equivalent was extremely helpful. When we were in Brussels a guy pretending to be drunk tried to pick my pocket, but I had my money and papers around my neck in a security pouch.
In Brussels for good service and good mussels try Chez Leon. We also
dined at Chez Vincent with friends but we didn't enjoy it. We had 9 o'clock
group reservations but were not seated until 10:45 and our food didn't
arrive until 11:45. For being an expensive restaurant the service was
lacking.
Kevin Endo <email>
Carrboro, nc USA 07/18/02
As predicted by Rick and others, Bruges is very crowded this year ...
at least it is between 11:00 and 17:00 when all the day trippers are there.
If you want to see it this year, stay in town so you can do your must-sees
before 11:00 and have your pick of the best restaurants after 18:00. In
the afternoons, prowl the shops, take the boat (or bicycle) to Damme, hole
up in a cybercafe (I liked www.thecoffeelink.com), stroll the parks, or
just relax at your hotel. And if you are looking for a place that offers
great afternoon relaxing, try www.egmond.be. Superb ambiance in a superb
location, with very friendly proprieters. They only have 8 rooms, so if
this sounds like your cup of tea, book early.
John Late
Satellite Beach , FL USA 07/16/02
Hotel Familia vs. Hotel Muguet
I still stand by my earlier comments on this wall about the two hotels.
My sister and I weren't treated very nicely at the Hotel Muguet, therefore
our stay was not delightful. However, the Familia Hotel did treat us very
nicely. My comments weren't comparing the amenities of each hotel, but about
how we were treated.
Susan <email>
USA 07/15/02
Best Beer/Brugge
Brugge-Strong Henry — Excellent
Steve <email>
Prescott, az USA 07/14/02
Language Barrier in France
I'm sorry that Joe V. had such a hard time with the "language barrier".
Six of us just returned from France, including 4 days in Paris. Even in
the most rural areas of France we never had a problem with the language.
Some of us spoke a little french, my mother in law (71) spoke none. I believe
that if you make an attempt to speak the language, they will respond in
kind. At one small cafe between the Loire and Beynac, it became funny to
all of us, including the owner as we fumbled our way through the menu and
ordering process. She taught us some french, we taught her some english.
When we left, everyone was smiling. Life is an adventure...embrace it!
Keith Jones
Dallas, TX USA 07/14/02
Paris, Brugges, Waterloo, Amsterdam, Brussels
I took a 2 week trip to Brussles, Brugges, Paris and Amsterdam. Parisians
were the nicest people by far! And Paris was my favorite part of the trip.
I highly recomment Cafe du Marche and the Rue Cler area. In Amsterdam we
found a great lunch spot, The Soup Kitchen and I highly recommend the Crowne
Plaza City Centre. Also, I recommend eating at any Indonesian restaurant.
Brugges is beautiful. We took a canal tour and horse buggy tour. Brussels
and Waterloo are also great citys. I had a wonderful time and I can't wait
to get back!
Nicole Oxford <email>
Atlanta, GA USA 07/11/02
Hotel in Brussels
The Hotel Welcome in Brussels was the most delightful small hotel of our
June 2002 trip. Our family of four loved it. Michael & Sophie Smeesters
truly are the most energetic hosts in Belgium. They went way out of their
way to make our stay comfortable. The room decor representing different
countries made this a very interesting place. And very convenient to everything.
Almont Pierce <email>
McLean, VA USA 07/06/02
Nice, France
My husband and I decided to spend our honeymoon in Nice, France. We were
there in June 2002 for 1 week. What a lovely time! I had picked up a copy
of Rick Steve's guidebook in the hotel lobby. Someone had kindly left it
there for others to use. I read the entire section on Nice. Rick does an
excellent job of recommendations. However, I was quite surprised to find
the Hotel Splendid listed as one of his picks. Not that it is a bad hotel
to stay in, but if you do some checking, you will find the hotel next door,
the Hotel Gounod, a better bargain. We stayed at the Hotel Gounod (the sister
hotel of the Hotel Splendid) and were able to enjoy all of the amenities
(pool, restaurant, hot tub, etc.) of the Hotel Splendid at about 50-100
euros savings. The Hotel Gounod also has a daily breakfast buffet for about
10 euros (free if you are staying a week or longer) We had made our reservations
online. The staff was very curteous and our room was huge...we may have
had the largest one there.
Johanna Erbe <email>
Louisville, KY USA 07/06/02
The Language Barrier
If you go to France, learn as many French phrases as possible, and how to
pronounce them correctly. Despite the reassurances in the guidebook, we
still found the French relatively unforgiving [and unresponsive] if you
don't know French and pronounce it correctly.
Joe Valentine <email>
Seattle, WA USA 07/05/02
International Calls
Buying phone cards to call back home has become more complicated. We learned
the hard way that you need to buy TWO different kinds of phone cards: the
regular "telecarte" and a special "access" card that gives you a different
phone number to call to get access to the telecarte number. In general,
we found the phone systems in both Italy and France increasingly complicated
[just like ours]. This section of the guidebooks needs to be expanded and
updated.
Joe Valentine <email>
Seattle, WA USA 07/05/02
Clothing
Update the section on clothing. Seminars and the guidbook admonished us
not to dress like Americans. When we arrived in Paris, everyone was dressed
like Americans! Good taste and comfort should be the only guidelines.
Joe Valentine <email>
Kirkland, WA USA 07/05/02
Ghent
If you're ever in Brugge or Brussels and looking for a charming medieval
canal-laced town without big-city hassles or swarms of tourists, get on
the next train to Ghent. Its perfectly preserved center is a delightful
place for aimless wandering. At night its buildings are illuminated like
nowhere else in Belgium. Traditional tourist activities (canal tours, etc.)
are available, but the best sight is the city itself. Well worth a stopover
or even a special trip, especially since Brugge is the "cultural capital
of Europe" this year and will be even more mobbed than usual.
Peter
Brussels, Belgium 07/01/02
GREAT B AND B IN BRUGES
I stayed at the Daltiens B and B in Bruges. Website is : users.skynet.be/dieltiens.
It is a great place to say in Bruges in an excellent yet quiet location.
I paid about 54 Euros for a single with a nice big Buffet breakfast around
their big diningroom table. Bruges is a great place to visit and a nice
home base for Belgium. If you get a chance to see the annual fesival of
holy blood it is very impressive. It was in May this year.
HARVEY ROBBINS <email>
COLUMBUS, OH USA 06/30/02
Taxi Service with Allo-Taxi Philippe
We just returned from visiting the Dordogne area of France using all of
Rick and Steve's recommendations. All were great,especially the town of
St. Cirq Lapopie. The greatest experience was with Phillipe, the tour guide/taxi
driver. He picked us up as our hotel in St. Cirq and gave us a full day
of touring ending up in Sarlat. His english is fairly good and when he doesn't
understand he tells you so. He has learned most of his english from tourists.
He planned the tour for us and we saw many great sites although a bit rushed.
The river valley is beautiful. Just a couple of problems: His phone rings
constantly because of being listed in Ricks book and he turns down many
people. Make a brief outline of things you want to do and have him stick
to it or he will rush you to see too much because of his love for his area.
By the end of the day you will feel like you have a new good friend.
Suzanne <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA 06/30/02
Haarlem
My friends and I stayed at Hotel Amadeus — Landers B & B in Haarlem, Netherlands.
Don't stay at the Landers B & B if you have a mold allergy — our bathroom
had mold growing in it. Also, found the people that worked there to be rather
unpleasant when there was a mix-up with our rooms.
Rob
Kent, WA USA 06/30/02
Foot-power between Vernon and Giverny
My wife and I are both complete Rick-o-philes from our first trip to Europe
in 1989. In Rick's 2002 France, Belgium & Netherlands guide book he leaves
the impression the bike ride (or the walk) between Vernon and Giverny is
on a very busy road. While you can stick to the busy road it is possible
to use a walking-bike path almost the whole way. It is a lovely trek, through
a small forest, along lush fields, the base of a steep hill, and past sweet
backyard splendor. This was a pleasant surprise and well worth the effort.
Also, at a brisk pace it takes between 1 and 1-1/2 hours to make the walk.
Enjoy & don't be late for your train!
George & Diane Geanuleas <email>
Huntingdon Valley, PA USA 06/29/02
HOTEL VALADON — PARIS
I visited the Hotel Valadon May 30 & 31 2002. The room is really nice. It
is similar to triple size rooms that I stayed at in London. The bed is very
comfortable, with a down feather bed comforter that is very soft. The bathroom
is very clean with hit tech motif. Many Americans stay there and so the
staff is very helpful. The breakfast is typical French — bread and coffee.
the croissants are excellent but the coffee is very American. The hotel
is within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower. There are lots of restaurants
and shops around. This hotel is an excellent place to stay. I highly recommend
it.
K & V Pope <email>
Lake Forest, , CA USA 06/27/02
Provence and the French Riviera
Going to Arles? Then you must stay at Hotel Le Calendal (www.lecalendal.com).
I think it may be one of the very best values in any of Rick's guidebooks.
Be prepared for helpful staff, lovely and relaxing common areas, Internet
access, clean and quiet rooms, modern bathrooms, and possibly the most convenient
location in town.
I purchased the town's museum pass at the TI. Like the Paris museum pass, it's a fine value. (Definitely use it to visit the Musee Reattu and its wonderful collection of Picasso works.) The Roman amphitheater held me spellbound for the greater part of my visit. It's so impressive from inside and out. Oh, and if you are in town during the full moon? It rises beautifully behind the arena.
Nimes and Orange were far more interesting day trips than Avignon. The Roman theater in Orange is particularly interesting and worth the time to explore.
Prior to Provence, I spent four nights based in Nice. I opted for a hotel I found via an online reservation service. Hotel Boreal (9 rue Paul Deroulede) is just off avenue Jean Medecin — midway between the train station and the beach. Friendly and helpful staff and clean and quiet rooms.
The regional Cote d'Azur museum pass is a smart purchase. Courtesy of the pass, I enjoyed visits to Nice's Chagall and Matisse museums; the fantastic Picasso museum in charming Antibes; and the Jean Cocteau museum in Menton.
Monaco proved to be a pleasant surprise. I skipped the Casino
and enjoyed a stroll around the old town. Train travel in the Riviera is
so astonishingly frequent and inexpensive that I was happy to simply purchase
point-to-point tickets over purchasing any sort of pass.
Tom <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 06/27/02
Versailles
I am fortunate to be able to take a small group to France every summer.
Of course, Versailles is a must see for the first time visitor. I still
get goosebumps when I visit the sites of Paris, but Versailles can be tiring.
I found the trick: upon leaving the Palace, of course you will want to see
some of the gardens. Head toward the canal and you will see the bike rental
area.I have been renting the bikes for my group the past couple of summers
and it makes Versailles come alive....plus it re-energizes everyone. The
vendor will give you locks for the bikes (just ask) and a map — -although
you cannot get lost. Head to the end of the road on which the bike rental
is located. Park and visit the farm and hamlet of Marie Antoinette. For
me the beauty of Versailles is the property on which it is located. And
the pictures for all you photographers! Now I look forward to seeing Versailles
each year, and no matter how crowded it is on the inside, you will have
this to look forward to.
Laurie
WI USA 06/22/02
Amsterdam, Bruges, Rhine River
In the last month we did Amsterdam, Bruges, Aachen, and Rhine River. The
Absoluut Verhulst in Bruges (that is in your book) get very high marks.
Benno and Frieda are great; I would put it high up on your list in Bruges.
We also enjoyed your hotel recommendation in Bacharach (in fact a Steves'
tour group was in the hotel the night we stayed). We were in Trier, Bacharach
and St. Goar. There is no problem with train noise at the Kranenturm Hotel
anymore — they have new windows.
I've always wanted to see Charlemagne's chapel /palace area in Aachen — it is quite important and deserves one night. (We stayed two.)
In Amsterdam — at the Hotel Filosoof — I am less certain of a recommendation (also in your book). Here is why. The price of a room is now 122. dollars. I scouted around down the street and in the area, and compared to other hotels it could be that the room is at least 10 euros overpriced. More of a problem is that ALL THE ROOMS HAVE THE SAME COST — if they all were of equal quality it would be less of a problem. We stayed two nights upon our arrival in A’dam and two nights on departure. For our second two nights we ended up in a room that barely had a double bed, it was extremely cramped, etc. Moreover, while the hotel is adding rooms (30 or so now in total), all are not upgraded. I think it is a mixed situation at this hotel and I am not familiar enough with Amsterdam to know anymore. The value was definitely better in Bacharach and Bruges.
We have found your books and travel videos quite useful. We have made
now quite a few trips to Europe and I will have to give Rick Steves —
and the original back door videos — the credit for convincing my wife
and me that we could travel in Europe and for making us want to travel
more.
John Havick <email>
Stone Mountain, GA USA 06/21/02
Netherlands & France
I saw SO many folks carrying various Rick Steves' guide books. It was always
fun to approach them and strike up a conversation, knowing that they would
be a friendly, open minded traveller. Can you believe that I forgot to bring
my guide books with me! After all that careful planning & packing. Lucky
for me I had read the books cover to cover prior to the trip so I wasn't
totally lost. Rick's advice for getting from the AMS airport to Central
Station was helpful.
I rented a small apartment next door to the Goldbloom B&B. The neighborhood was terrific. Renting a car and driving in France was a good experience. (Autoeurope) My teenage daughter helped me navigate and look for road signs. Springtime in Normandy is beautiful with all of the baby sheep, horses & cows. Not to mention the wild flowers.
We stayed in a 1000 year old bed & breakfast in Creances. The owner knows every bit of history that ever happened in the area. Mesnil de Creances is the name of the place. I loved it there, very quiet. In Amboise we stayed at La Breche. Good food and it was a treat to eat in the garden on some evenings. There are two great shops down the street where I stopped in the morning to get picnic supplies before feading out for the Chateaux.
Dropping the car in Chartres could have gone more smoothly. The Hertz place is far from the train station, and the train station had no luggage storage or restrooms. Had to take an expensive taxi from Hertz to the train station. The cathedral is however, a short walk from the train station.
We ended our trip with a week in Paris. Since I was with my two teenage children, I rented an apartment. Here's my one dumb tourist thing that I did: When you receive change from a purchase- make sure the change is in Euros, NOT FRANCS!! I know, you're supposed to count your change etc, but I didn't notice until after we got back to the apartment. Duh.
I purchased the 5 day museum pass, it worked beautifully. I'm so glad
that I read in Rick's book about the view from La Samaritaine department
store. I forgot about the expensive drinks up there- so beware. We had
a great trip. Thank you to Rick Steves for making the trip with my kids
a success. This was my sixth trip to Europe, but I haven't been for 21
years. I was a little nervous to go on my own, but Rick's information
gave me the confidence to just GO and ENJOY! Thanks
Linda R. <email>
Denver, CO USA 06/20/02
pickpockets
Exiting the RER at Charles deGaulle Terminal 1-then through the turnstiles
to the Navette. When I sat down on the navette, I discovered that all 3
pockets of my daybag were open, and a coin purse containing $13.00 was missing.
Thanks to my money belt, that was all I lost.
mary wildeman <email>
concord, oh USA 06/20/02
updates to 2002 France guidebook
avignon, france-hotel kyriad. fax# is 04909092. Breakfast no longer included.
Costs 6.50 euros. Auberge le chevalier is closed permanently. We were in
avignon 3 weeks ago. Liked the Kyriad. "Hi", to Dave Fox. September,98-Turkey
ETBD.
Mary Wildeman, <email>
Concord, OH USA 06/20/02
Haarlem
Stayed at Hotel Amadeus, they were great. Two suggestions.... If you want
a to rent a bike on the weekend, place a reservation in ahead of time or
you won't be riding a bike. Also, a great place to eat if you are looking
to eat great cheaply one night is Omar's. From standing in the center of
the Grote Markt, Walk north toward the Train station. Its the street that
runs between the two outside cafe's, not the one McDonald's is on the corner
of. My wife and I ate heartily, beer and wine, for 15 bucks. Be sure to
pet Tommy the cat while you are there. We personally found Zaanse Schans
to be more bang for the buck compared to the Openluchtsmuseum out in Arnhem.
Its pretty much free, compared to 10 dollars a person in Arnhem, and its
only a half hour train ride from Haarlem instead of an hour and a half.
Plus you see more hands on activities at Zaanse Schanse. But the windmill
and houses in Arnhem are worth the trip if you have the extra day.
Steve B <email>
Washington, DC USA 06/20/02
Feedback from our Euro Tour of 5/02
We followed your advice multiple times and enjoyed every one.
France — We went on the Acco Dispo full day tour of the Loire Valley and your description was right on!We really enjoyed the high energy commentary and tour; it's the most castles that anyone can get in one day, and the TGV connections from Paris worked like a charm.
Netherlands: Going to the Anne Frank house late in the day is wonderful; we had it all to ourselves and a few others carrying your guidebook. We could have spent the entire day in the Rijksmuseum. The wine and cheese canal cruise in Amsterdam was fun with both daylight and night views. One suggestion: by accident, we found a windmill museum in Alkmaar, Netherlands about 4-5 blocks (right) off of the route from train to cheese market. We climbed the windmill's ladders (~5 euros) and it was a true adventure (not for the timid). It is one good memory!
Brussels: We enjoyed the t'Kelderke restaurant. We picniced out of the
Ad Delhaize supermarket; Great!
Geoffrey Netzley <email>
North Augusta, SC USA 06/16/02
B&B in Brugge
B&B Brugge My husband, 3yr old daughter and myself travelled for 2 weeks
in Lux, Belgium and France with the help of your book. Very helpful with
ways to make the trip fun for all 3 of us! One B&B in Brugge worth bragging
about is Absoluut Verhulst run by Benno and Freida. The location was great,
the accomindations were very nice, and Benno's breakfast in the morning
was worth the stay. The owners were accomidating and welcoming. I can't
imagine there is a better value and more enjoyable place in Brugge.
Laurie <email>
Landenberg, PA USA 06/16/02
Paris & Nice
I want to thank all of the people who have provided their comments! This
is really helpful to us novices of the traveling world. Thank You! I went
to Paris two weeks after 9/11 last year and needless to say, it was not
crowded. I took my Father who turned 81 on our trip. We had a wonderful
time.
My father's highlight was Normandy and all the stops. He is a veteran and had a little difficulty at the cemetary. Visited the graves of some of his war buddies. We did all the normal tourist things in Paris. We stayed at the Holiday Inn on the outskirts of town and I would not recommend it from a convenience point of view. It was included in our tour so we had no choice. Clean, nice, and American but just too far away from everything. The Metro system is wonderful and easy to use. Very much like a NY Subway, San Francisco Bart and Washington DC Metro. Easy!
Beware of pickpockets, be careful wearing jewelry. The food was wonderful
in Paris and Some of the people were rude but not all. It goes both ways.
I loved shopping at the galleria LaFayette. Moulin Rouge was excellent.
Down the street from Moulin Rouge is a Irish Pub named Corcoran's. Great
atmosphere (It's also my maiden name!) The museums were on strike. All
and all, it was a memorable trip. I liked it so much I'm going again this
coming August.
Karyn Elkington <email>
Irvine, CA USA 06/15/02
France — Rude American and lovely bed and breakfast
My husband and I just returned from a 2 week trip to Paris, Nice, Antibes,
Arles and Cannes. We took the train from Paris to Nice (rather uncomfortable,
and I think it might actually be cheaper to fly), and then rented a car.
The country is just so beautiful and people are very nice. Here are a few
tips from the trip:
We booked our flight and hotel on FranceVacations.com. Things went smoothly until we realized that they had booked us on a 2 star instead of a 3 star hotel. Well, we complained and they changed it at the last minute, but we were still disappointed at the small hotel room. The deal with Paris is that the district you stay in matters a lot. A 2 star hotel in the St. Germain (6th) district actually looked better than our 3 star in the Opera (9th) district. So, be careful while booking hotels on the net, they don't look the same in reality.
We did not meet any rude French people. People in Paris were a little curt (and busy!). But the only rude person we met was an American lady, who in the middle of a show in Lido (Paris), turned around to the people sitting next to us and shouted "Shut Up", and I didn't even hear these people talk loudly. I was so embarrased!
Bed and breakfast near Avignon/Arles — We found this charming little guest house in a little village called Vallabregues. It was the cheapest place we stayed in (40 Euro with breakfast!) and the best. There are only 3 rooms in the house, very tastefuly done, but no phone or TV, but we didn't need them as we spent the nights drinking coffee and chatting with the village people. The name is Melchior, and the email address is melchior@avignon-et-provence.com.
And lastly, everyone in France smokes and has a dog, so watch out for
cigarette smoke and dog poop, its everywhere!!
Anjali Datta <email>
Austin, tx USA 06/14/02
Catching a bus from Le Havre to Honfleur
Once you arrive at Le Havre's train station (and want to catch a bus to
Honfleur), follow the signs which will direct you to take a side door on
your left to a big bus parking lot and look for one going to Honfluer. Do
NOT cross any street as Rick's guide book tells you to do. We saw the sign
but followed the book instead and much later realized that the book's instructions
are not/no longer valid. The buses don't run very often. We missed one because
we were wandering around and the next didn't arrive for another 3 hours.
We had a short stay planned for Honfluer, so decided to catch a taxi...
40 Euros! A very expensive lesson.
D Miller <email>
Ashland, OR USA 06/14/02
Paris — Hotel Familia NOT a good value/Hotel Muguet delightful
After reading teh Graffiti Wall wall, I boked a room at Hotel Familia for
a spontaneous trip to Europe that did not allow enough planning time to
ensure accommodations at Rick's favorites for all of my nights in town.
I would NOT recommend Hotel Familia unles you are in a desperate pinch for
a bed. For just $5 more per night, Hotel Muguet is much, much cleaner, much,
much quieter and much more comfortable. Muguet does not include breakfast
in the basic price, but I'm happier seeking out my own crossant and coffee
in the morning anyway. My stay at Muguet was absolutely delightful. I will
definitely return and recommend it to others.
ALindou <email>
Seattle, WA USA 06/11/02
Chinese food in Amsterdam
Chinese "food"?- Yes, I too was Amsterdam this spring — I was billed to
a bottle of wine which I didn't order- Foruntely my wife and I are vegetarians!!!
Steve
USA 06/11/02
Travels in France
I was in France in May, 2002 and used Rick's Guidebooks daily (hourly).
We stayed at the Hotel Muguet near Rue Cler in Paris and found it to be
delightful (and about half the price of the last hotel I stayed at in Paris — but the Hotel Muguet was nicer and larger!). We also visited Normandy
(off the beaten path in Jumieges near Rouen) and then on to Honfleur, the
D-Day beaches and then to the Loire Valley for five nights. Two nights were
spent in Blere (close to Amboise) in a B&B that used to be a mill — run
by Roger and Ann. Thanks, Rick for the advice to eat there if Ann was cooking.
She was and it was delightful.
It was interesting to speak with Roger (who
is English) and Ann (from Belgium) about how they get guests. They are listed
in numerous guidebooks (Frommers, Karen Brown, etc.), but told us that the
only guidebook that checks them out annually is Rick Steves. In his Guidebook,
Rick says that he would headquarter in Loches (rather than Amboise or Chinon)
if it were more conveniently located. We stayed two nights close to Amboise
and three close to Chinon. On our way back to Paris, we spent some time
in Loches and both agreed that this delightful town will be where we will
stay on our next trip to the Loire Valley. Make sure that you are there
on market day. Delightful!
Vicki <email>
Laguna Beach, CA USA 06/11/02
Dante Hotel in Bruges
Having just returned from a trip to The Netherlands, Belgium and France,
using your book, I would like to recommed a hotel in Bruges called the Dante-
family run, on a canel- offering a free breakfast that turned out to be
the "best" that we found in terms of choices. Price was very reasonable
with the rooms of good size with all the amenities, including a minibar,
hairdryer , etc. Price per night was about 100.00 US dollars.
Linda Shaw <email>
La Mesa, CA USA 06/06/02
Welcome Hotel, Brussels
My husband and I took your recommendation for the Welcome HOtel is Brussels
and found it less than satisfactory!! The room was SO small only one person
could be up( off the bed) at a time. The bed was ,at best, a 3/4 bed. The
hotel was clearly "under remodel", which was the reported state in your
2001 book. Naked wiring was handing out of the walls and ceiling in several
places; the windows looking over the street were cracked. All and all a
very bad experience. We left with a backache and wondering why it was so
glowingly described in your book. I might add that we have used your recommendations
for a number of European trips and have always been happy with our choice
of hotel. Perhaps rethinking the Welcome hotel is in order.
Linda Shaw <email>
San Diego, CA USA 06/06/02
Normandy D-Day Sights
Visited Normandy for 4 days during our recent trip to Paris. I may have
been somewhat biased based on my interest in WW II, but found everything
about Normandy to be wonderful. Picked up our car at Versailles just outside
of Paris through Auto Europe. Worked out real well both coming and going.
A-13 to Caen from Paris was a breeze. Use your credit card to pay the tolls
in a zip. Directions are very well marked and I think we made it to Caen
in a little over 2 hours.
Stopped by the Caen Memorial Peace Museum on the way to our Bayuex Hotel. Very well done exhibit as explained in Rick's book. Allow at least 3 hours. The US Memorial Garden was very special. Each state submitted a plaque commemorating their youth who gave their life in the liberation of France. I was sickened to notice that several plaques had been stolen from the wall.
If you plan to purchase D-Day related souvenirs, the Caen Memorial is the place! Gift shop had an excellent selection of books, posters, and videos. Other gift shops near the actual D-Day sights really had nothing. Be sure to pick up a small book sold at the shop explaining the history of the Allied and German cemeteries in Normandy with short bios of famous soldiers buried at each cemetery. This information in the book made visiting these sights even more moving. Departed for our hotel — La Calliere just outside of Bayuex. Friendly staff and nice rooms. Just a tad bit far from the D-Day sights and the nice restaurants in Bayuex.
Spent Saturday touring the D-Day beaches. Arrived at the American Cemetery mid-morning. The overall design and presentation of this sacred place is very moving. Road leading into the cemetery is lined with large trees and hedgerows As you enter the park and walk toward the cemetery, you are treated to view of the channel/D-day beach in the distance. God Bless America plays on small music boxes as you enter. Before even seeing a single grave I was already in tears.
You continue to walk down the path until you reach an opening on your left. You turn and 10,000 perfectly aligned white marble crosses and stars are facing west towards America. The park is on a very high cliff overlooking Omaha beach. On your right is the famous statue of the American youth emerging from the waves with two beautiful engraved maps on each side outlining the D-Day invasion and later liberation of Europe. Behind the statue are names of the 2,000 Americans missing from the battle. The graves seem to go on forever. Even more moving is reading the names of each fallen comrade....Texas, California, Illinois. Pay respects to Teddy Roosevelt and his brother Quentin, the Nyland brothers who were the inspiration for Saving Private Ryan, a father and son, 33 pair of brothers and 19 men all from the small community of Bedford, VA. There is even a grave for a young man named George Washington (no relation) who paid the ultimate price for freedom. If anyone ever tells you that America is selfish, tell them to visit this cemetery at Colleville overlooking Omaha Beach and see what 10,000 young Americans did for another in the name of freedom on June 6, 1944.
Then headed west toward Pointe-Du-Hoc, where the Rangers scaled amazing cliffs. Acres of craters and German bunkers. Look down the cliffs and ask yourself how any men could have attacked this position. Kind of sad to see the memorial at the far end of the cliff closed due to erosion of the cliff.
Next was Utah Beach outside St. Marie Du-Mont with a small museum and several monuments. Most of the museums at the D-Day sights were pretty much the same and didn't look like they had a whole lot. If you have time they may be worth checking out.
Next stop was the town of St. Mere-Eglise, the objective of the 101st (Band of Brothers) during the evening of June 5th, 1944. Very nice town center with several museums and a dummy of an American soldier who got caught on the church spire during his jump. Back to Bayuex for a nice dinner and stroll through the streets.
During April it stayed light well past 9:30 PM which helped for a full day of sightseeing. On the way back to our hotel we saw a sign for a British Commonwealth Cemetery on a small country road in the Normandy countryside. After witnessing the grandeur of the American Cemetery, the Commonwealth Cemetery was much more intimate. Approximately 200 graves with different types of flowers are planted at each site; it makes the cemetery feel like a garden. Immediate family members of the fallen inscribed some the most moving words on the headstone. The British believe a soldier should be buried where he falls. There are dozens of these small cemeteries across France — you must see at least one. The British cemeteries revealed the beauty and honor of an individual's death and sacrifice.
My wife was a great sport, but I would have loved another full day to
see the British and Canadian beaches and every museum. Be warned that
the weather in Normandy is unpredictable to say the least. Driving even
on the country roads is a breeze. Just know the town you want to go and
follow the sign at each roundabout. Would be glad to answer any questions
via e-mail.
Brian <email>
Chicago, IL USA 06/05/02
Bruges bike rentals
In Bruges, bike rentals are still fantastic from Eric Popelier's shop. You
do not need to leave your passport, or even a monetary deposit. (you pay
in advance for the time you expect to rent them). Our bikes were tuned up
nicely. The service was very friendly. A great recommendation.
Bill <email>
Seattle, WA USA 06/05/02
shuttle to/from airport
We used your Paris book on our first trip to France two years ago and the
France, Belgium & Netherlands book for our second trip last month since
we were going to tour the countryside. Again, great recommendations — some
I wish you wouldn't repeat in the future so that all the other folks traveling
with their Rick Steve's books in hand don't show up too while I'm there!
(The weirdest thing I saw was a man reading aloud to his companion from
Rick Steve's book as they walked from painting to painting at the Orsay
— and her listening to him!)
At any rate, now that I am much more familiar and comfortable with the
train/metro connection from CDG airport, I could easily navigate the trip.
But on our first trip, tired after a long flight, and with too much luggage,
we got confused by the directions in the Paris book and were "helped"
by a local who got more out of us than our tickets were worth. Whether
an experienced traveler or not in France, I highly recommend using a shuttle
to get in and out of Paris. They drop you off (or pick you up) at your
hotel or apartment, you don't have to haul luggage up and down the inevitable
stairs in the Metro, you can just relax after a long trip (or before a
long trip). We used Airport Shuttle at airportshuttle.com. You can reserve
trips to and from the airport before you leave by e-mail. It's only 14.50
euros each for two or more people (22 euros for one) for a one-way trip.
Cheaper than a taxi, easier than the SNCF/Metro drill — especially if
it's your first time in Paris.
Casey Longwood <email>
Puyallup, WA USA 06/04/02
A week in Paris
I went to France with my sister and a friend. One of the best New Years
Eve ever! We spent a week in Paris and had the opportunity to visit several
places of interest, typical tourist visits, but also...other places not
so turistic....more French.Where French people normally go. I highly recommend
Hotel Dukesne Eiffel. Beautiful! Friendly staff, great service, yummy breakfasts
(best croissants I ever tried)you can get breakfast in your room with no
additional cost, and when we got to the hotel at night after a long cold
day of sightseeing, the staff recieved us with a tray with three cups of
tea delivered to our room. You get plenty of information about tours to
Versailles and other places at the front desk, as well as information on "Gares" and how to get to other neighboring countries such as Belgium, Luxembourg,
etc...Also just a block away from Dukesne Eiffel, you have the METRO "Ecole
Militaire" to get around easily,a coffee shop "Terrace" where I tried the
very French delicious desert "Crème Brulèe", and a mini-grocery store "Shoppi"...where
we bought fruit and other snacks to carry with us during the day. It was
a very fun trip we really enjoy and from which we have so many great memories!!!
Ana Gutierrez <email>
Monterrey, NL Mexico 06/03/02
France
My husband, daughter and I spent 2 weeks in France. Five days in Paris and
then we rented a car at Orly Airport. Drove to Chartres to see the Cathedral,
magnificant. Whoever says the French are cold don't know what they are talking
about. We parked our car in the parking garage in Chartres and when we were
trying to figure out how to pay a very nice woman who spoke no English waited
until we paid so we would know what we were doing.
We stayed in Vouvray at a chateau for 2 nights. If you ever want a special treat stay at the Chateau Jallanges in Vouvray. It is a very old renovated chateau with all the modern amenities. The grounds are very impressive. 100 year old cedar trees and a Renaissance garden.
We then drove to Beaune and stayed at the Hotel Belle Epoque. Great hotel just outside the wall. If you are traveling with a family ask for the family suite. You get two bedrooms separated by a living room for only 106.00 euros. Lots of room and very comfortable.
We went to the Marche aux Vin and were very disappointed. We went there about five years ago and the wines were great. This time they were not even mediocre, they were awful. It was not just our opinion. I overheard several people on the street making the same comments. Go to other wine houses.
We then went to the Alsace area and stayed in Colmar. We stayed at the Hotel Le Rapp. Staff was very nice and helpful. Rooms were small and extremely noisy. If you wanted to go to sleep before midnight, forget it. I would find somewhere quieter to stay. The Route de Vin was fun. We saw many storks and babies. There was even a nest with two storks on the Cathedral in Colmar. Went to the Underlintin museum and saw the alter piece. Very impressive, however, the alter piece at the Hospice in Beaune was much more dramatic.
We then drove to Reims and remembered to pronounce it to rhyme with France. On the way we stopped at Verdun. It was a gray cold day and fit the mood of the place perfectly. Had a great time in Reims. Stayed at the Best Western. It was right at the center of town and very convenient but modern. Staff was great. Tight parking garage but, considering the lack of parking spaces, we were glad to have the garage. We went to Tattinger and Piper Hiedseck. Tattinger was informative and very interesting. Tasted the champagne and bought two bottles. Then we went to Piper Hiedseck. Their tour is Disney on champagne. We had a great time and laughed the whole 20 minute tour. The Casablanca scene and the bubbles were the best parts. Although having the ghost of Mr. Hiedseck greet you at the begining was pretty cool too. Bought more champagne.
Security at the airports was tight but not too bad. The woman checking
my carry on in Paris couldn't believe I had six bottles of wine wrapped
in dirty clothes. We came back with 7 bottles of wine and 4 bottles of
champagne. All in all had a great time and of course Rick's book was very
helpful.
Sharon <email>
Fort Lauderdale, FL USA 06/03/02
France tourbook
My sisters, my niece and I just returned from our trip to France and had
a wonderful time. We used the book's recommendations for hotel in Paris,
Chenonceaux, and Avignon and were not disappointed. Grand Hotel Leveque
is indeed a very nice and clean hotel with very helpful and friendly staff,
and what a nice neighbourhood Rue Cler is! The pastry shops, fruit stands
and the crepe stand were our favourites. The restaurant recommendations
were right on! Another highlight of our trip was our stay with Laurent and
Sophie in their charming hotel in Chenonceaux. Food was excellent! Keep
up the good work!
Patricia
Beaverton, OR USA 05/31/02
Arles
Shopping outside a store in Arles, my husband was very surprised to be hit
by car mirror and have the back of his shoe run over by a car tire. The
mirror broke right off the car! Many of the roads are very narrow in small
towns and have no curbs and he thought that he had left room for passing
cars. Luckily he wasn't hurt, thanks to the fact that he had Rick's book
2002 France in his rear Tilley shorts pocket which cushioned the blow! The
black tread on his runner showed how close the car drove past. The driver
got out and apologized, as he was as surprised as we were. Watch out for
cars on those narrow streets!
Craig and Louise Stewart <email>
North Vancouver, B.C. Canada 05/30/02
10 days in France
10 days driving in France visiting Cassis, Vaison-La-Romaine, Annecy, Beaune
and Paris. Rick's book was pretty much on the mark for the sites and hotels.
Didn't go to too many of his restaurant recs.
CASSIS — stayed at Hotel le Golfe. Great location on harbor. Rooms adequate and clean. No parking at hotel, but parking garage 5-10 min. walk from hotel has mostly pay (~$10 overnight), but some free spaces. 3 calanque boat tour was ok. Nice to be out on the ocean, but might have been nice to hike instead, but we ran out of time.
VAISON-LA-ROMAINE — This area of provence was the highlight of the trip. Street market was great in Vaison-La-Romaine, but about the same as ones we had been to in Arles and Isle sur la Sorgue. Stayed at Hotel Burrhus, which was excellent. Great location. Easy parking in adjacent square. Rooms were clean and comfortable. Wine tasting in this area was outstanding. Gigondas has several convenient places off the main square, but surrounding towns/countrside also have numerous places. If serious about wine, it might be worthwhile to plan which wineries you might be interested in before going. Otherwise there are tons of wineries with signs all over the countryside directing you to their cellar to taste, which could be hit and miss.
TWO SLIGHTLY OFF THE BEATEN PATH PROVENCAL RESTARAUNTS WE REALLY LIKED — One of our favorite restaurants (not in Rick's book) was in Le Beaucet(a beautiful tiny town on a cliff), about 40-50 km (45-60min drive) south of Vaison-La-Romaine near Carpentras. We went to the restaurant, Auberge du Beaucet, which we thought had an outstanding 30euro four course meal. The restaurant has about 12-14 tables and the owner, a very nice elderly gentleman, welcomes you with a warm handshake and thanks you for coming. Many dishes to choose from for each course. Cheese course had 7 types of local chevre and 7 types of cow's milk cheeses, from which you simply take what you like. It is a small place, so you definitely need to reserve ahead. Our overall experience was better than some of the Michelin starred restaurants we went to. (Gault-millau guide gave a 15/20 rating, which is not bad.)
Another interesting restaurant (not in Rick's book) was in the very small village of Buoux which is in the Luberon valley. It is called Auberge de la loube. The restaurant is a cozy inn with a nice outdoor terrace in a town which otherwise looked deserted and consisted of a dozen or so buildings. The restaurant was packed, though. We didn't have a reservation and luckily got in for lunch. However, they had to turn some others away after we had sat down, so you might want to reserve. Their highlight was a first course of traditional Provencal appetizers which was a platter of at least 15 different types of dishes. Their main dish and dessert were also good. The three course menu was 27 euros. (This place was written about in Peter Mayle's book A Year in Provence).
ANNECY — Charming town. Friday AM market was great as stalls lined the narrow streets of the old town. Stayed at Hotel du Chateau, which was great. Great location, parking, and comfortable. Many rooms have a nice view. Terrace overlooking the old town was perfect for a picnic after picking up stuff from the market.
BEAUNE-Stayed at Hotel Le home, which was nice, although location north of town means either a long walk or getting into the car and finding parking when going to Beaune. The drives around the Burgundian countryside which Rick describes are worth doing if you have the time. Chateauneuf en Auxois and the other chateau were pretty nice. This was a great area for a bike ride which we did on a previous trip here. The owner of the bike shop(who speaks english) can recommend a great ride tailored to your needs. Drove briefly through Semur-en-Auxois and walked around Flavigny which were also charming towns.
Paris-Stayed in Hotel de Turrenne across from Hotel des Invalides, which
was a good hotel for the price. Would stay there again.
S C <email>
Bellevue, WA USA 05/30/02
Good eating — cheap — in Haarlem and Amsterdam
My wife and I stayed in Haarlem, as recommended by Rick, during a recent
trip to the Netherlands. Furthermore, we stayed at the B&B next door to
the Amadeus Hotel, which is also run by Amadeus, and it was as nice as Rick
says. No regrets there! Loved Haarlem, which is a lively and beautiful city.
For good eating in Haarlem, check out Altro Mondo Trattoria, on Spaarne.
Wonderful food, with most entrees costing 10 Euros or less. And in Amsterdam,
go to Arnots, a sandwich place on Singel. Great bread, fresh ingredients,
good prices. Happy travels!
Michael Guravich <email>
Fredericton, N.B. Canada 05/27/02
room accommodations
On a recent trip to Europe (my first)one place we stayed in the Netherlands
was in a small town of Haarlem. The town was fine, but our rooms were horrible.
We stayed at Joops Innercity Partments. Our room had a terrible smell and
the service also stunk.
Ann Kass <email>
Tallahassee, fl USA 05/27/02
Bruge-Brussels- Amsterdam
We took the Thalys from Paris-Nord(see Paris) to Brussels Midi then connected
to Bruges.When booking the hotel we again usen www.viamichelin.com for recommendations
with a cross to Rick's book. We decided on the Hotel Egmond. When we contacted
them by e-mail they responded by saying that the main building was full(8rooms)
but there was space in the new extension. Upon arrival in Bruges we decided
to walk to the hotel since it appeared to be close to the station. It turned
out to be an easy 5 minute walk.
At the hotel we received an overwhelmingly gracious welcome. We were driven to the new extension because they wanted to ensure that we knew where everything was and that it was acceptable. As it turned out the new extension is a completely remodled building with all the modern conveniences. The facilities,location, and wonderful people made this one of the best hotels we stayed at in our 5 European trips over the last 27 months.
The weather wasn't great but Bruge was wonderful. The internet cafe described in the book is great.However, the location is poorly described. Yes it is across from the church of our lady but it is down a passageway. For a magnificant dinning experience including warm friendly servive and great food try bistro de