Rick Steves' France: 2004
Please share any ways we can improve or fix this guidebook. Are there recommendations in this book that disappointed you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition? Here's what you thought about the 2003 edition:
Hotel Rapp
Did not like our stay there recently when visiting Colmar. Although I had confirmed a double room via email, the accomodations they provided were very small.I am about 6 foot tall, and could not fit on bed by myself, let alone with my wife. When we questioned the size of the room, they made us upgrade for an additional 17 Euro per night.Also, hallways were musty and not very well lit and we wound up taking the stairs rather than wait for the slow lift.
USA Tue 12/14/2004
Isle Sur la Sorgue
In September we spent 10 wonderful days in a lovely garden house just outside Isle Sur la Sorgue. Le Pigeonnier Chambre d'Hotes (email: corinne.manni@wanadoo.fr) is run by the friendly and helpful Corrine Mani. The garden house was recently constructed and has all the modern conveniences while having enough reclaimed items to provide all the charm of Provence. "Our little cottage" had one bedroom, a kitchen, a small den, and an oversized bath with separate water closet. The cottage was located in the garden just in front of a quaint canal. Included in the 88 Euro a night cost(3 occupants) for the cottage is a wonderful breakfast consisting of fresh baked goods, fresh made preserves, and coffee/tea.
Corrine was a god-send to us, taking what started out to be a nightmare vacation and turning it into a relaxing, fun, and extremely enjoyable holiday. Corrine went beyond what anyone could expect in a hostess, she helped us find our lost luggage, get a flat tire repaired, and locate the many items that we planned to purchase on our trip from antique posters to Provencial fabric and even a metal dish drainer. We went to France expecting a nice vacation and left with a new friend. In fact, we loved Le Pigonnier so much we are already planning our next trip. The little garden house is a wonderful place to come home to after a long day of touring and shopping.
Anne Lynch <email>
Costa Mesa, CA USA Sun 12/05/2004
Bayeux
We spent four nights in Bayeux staying at Hotel d'Argouges located at 21 sue St Patrice. Cindy Amand was a wonderful hostess there. This really is like a B & B with breakfast included. It is located right the square where there is a colorful Saturday market. Also on this square is a wonderful restaurant, le Bistrot de Paris. It was so good that we ate there every night we were in Bayeux.
Cammie McCarvey <email>
Tucker, GA USA Sun 12/05/2004
Rick Steves hotel choices
Every trip I've made to France is based for the most part on Rick Steves recommendations. Without exception his Logis recommendations have been good choices. In Arromanches, the Parrot(Pappagall), right on Gold Beach, and The Gap (La Breche)in Ambroise are cases in point. Logis are family run hotels and have good restaurants. But, they are lousy accountants. Always, when I add up the number of nights stayed, the dinners and breakfasts we've had, the invoice is less than what I expected. Package deals are wonderful
Harvey <email>
Chicago, IL USA Tue 11/16/2004
South of France, Get Rick's Book!
2004 South France from Avignon to Nice, through Cassis, Villefranche Sur Mer, and Monaco.Every hotel and eatery Rick rocommended in his Provence book was right on the money!Thank you Rick! And to those who haven't bought his book, get it before you go and take it with you!Oh, and if you make it to Villefranche Sur Mer, say hello to Albert, he was great! (and he speaks English!)
Calin Day <email>
Chicago, IL USA Tue 11/09/2004
Chenonceau- Hotel la Roseraie
We recently returned from France. What a fabulous country! We stayed at the Hotel la Roseraie in Chenonceau, and we will definitely go back. The room was large, beautiful and comfortable. The meals in the dining room were the best of our whole trip....Wonderful food, great conversation with people around us, and most of all....being spoiled by Laurent and Sophie. They know how to make you welcome and want to return! We will definitely return. It is truly a special place to stay.
Sue Haggarty <email>
Peterborough , On Canada Fri 11/05/2004
Paris Catacombs
just a quick note about the catacombs in Paris. a sign was posted at the entrance that it will be closed from November until May of 2005. i don't know if this is routine or not, but it might save someone the trouble of getting there and it being closed. but as always, check ahead with the TI or your hotel. it's definitely worth seeing!
Timothy McCaffrey <email>
St. Louis, MO USA Thu 10/28/2004
Normandy
Some suggestions for driving--We used Michelin's atlas (1-200,000), with an inexpensive compass/magnifying glass. VERY helpful. We drove all over Normandy with no big problems. Know the city/town you are headed for because the signs don't emphasize the route numbers. Roundabouts are the best invention ever!
The B&B in Bayeux "Les Remparts" was a treat, a "would do again" stay.Follow RS's advice about things closing down Noon to 2, and in rural France, time your lunch accordingly.
BattleBus was the greatest. Gurt was a pleasure. I can't imagine anyone going to the "beaches" and not taking a guided tour. We saw so much more than we would EVER see on our own (and we did a ton of research)One last thing--as RS says don't be afraid to pantomime (spell?). to get your point across, we all had many good laughs communicating.
Paul <email>
Burlington, Wi USA Tue 10/26/2004
bike tours, Provence, Vaison
I was in Southern France on business and had a few free days to travel. I asked my wife to fax me the pages from Rick's France, Belgium and Netherlands book that dealt specifically with Provence. This was a tremendous help with making reservations and completely enjoying 3 days in Provence using Vaison la Romaine as a base. The high point was my tour by bicycle of several small medieval villages.
Rick's book is mistaken about the information for bike tours. What you want from the TI is 'Parcours Cyclo Touristiques' It is 5 eurosbut it has detailed maps for several bike tours from easy half day trips (which I took) and the 40 km tours for someone in much better shape. The bike tour was easily the high point of my entire trip and I highly recommend it.
BTW I purchased the Rick Steves travel bag with the hideable straps. It's *great*.
Damian Dlugolecki <email>
troutdale, OR USA Mon 10/25/2004
Travelling to Senlis
My wife and I decided to stay near the airport before our plane left back to the US the following morning. We liked the idea of staying in Senlis, as Rick recommended in "France 2004' . It was only "fiveteen minutes" from the airport, how much could a taxi be? Rick's book didn't mention how to get to Senlis, only that the room there was reasonable. The taxi metered out at almost 50 Euros plus the extra fee of carryng our bags.
We asked at the hotel about other means of transport and the desk person pointed us across the way to the bus line that only cost 5 euros each. We didn't know if Senlis was some inaccesible town or had bus service. We assumed, wrongly, that the taxi was the best or only way to get there. Short story, Rick, mention the bus as the way to go.Philip And Andrea
Philip Gerrie <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Sun 10/24/2004
My husband and I have just returned from three weeks in France--one week in Paris and two weeks driving (a short term lease from Renault). Burgundy, Lyon, northern Provence, the Dordogne (don't miss going to at least one of the caves--Lascaux II or Grotte de Font-de-Gaume were both awe-inspiring), Chambord, Chartres. A wonderful trip and everywhere we went the French were most helpful and kind. People went out of their way to help us when we were lost on the road or in the towns. We used Rick Steves France constantly and found that most of the time his suggestions and recommendations were very sound.
Laurent at the Hotel des Celestines (formerly Hotel Colbert) in Lyons was extremely helpful. The Chambres Residence Versailles at Beynac was charming as were its hosts Jean-Claude and Francoise. On the down-side, we found the Hotel Rousseau in Beaune to be quite basic (my grandmother's was never like that!). Beaune was very busy and we had trouble getting any accommodation that wasn't very expensive. As others have pointed out the Hotel du Grand St. Michel in Chambord is pretty frayed around the edges (our room was none too clean) but the location is hard to beat.
Overall, a great trip. We found that particularly in some of the smaller centres there were very few tourists. We had been in France two years previously in October and done our travelling by train which worked very well. This time we decided to drive which was equally as rewarding and it meant that we could go places that were not readily accessible by public transport.
Margaret Voice <email>
Edmonton, Alberta Canada Sat 10/23/2004
France 2004
France 2004 BookThis fall my husband and mother travelled with me to France. We used this book for our September 17-26 trip and had an excellent time. Here is our list of the best and worst.
The Best:
Restaurant-La Tortue in Honfleur has budget prices for four-star. Plus, we loved the service and the cozy enviornment.
B&B- La Jacotiere in Mt. St. Michel, most square footage for your euro with a very helpful staff and cute rooms! Plus, the biggest shower we encountered on our trip. Our hostess was really helpful when we had car trouble.
The Not-So-Good-Rouen seemed a bit over-rated to me. It was dirty and several things were closed for lunch etc. and us day-trippers had a hard time seeing what little this town has to offer. Flunch salvaged the day as far as we were concerned!
No bad experiences with food or hotels in France.
What we wish the book had was a bit more about driving in each country. Although the book gives an idea of what it will be like, things like knowing what the crazy signs mean at the un-manned toll booths would have been so helpful! Some were credit cards only, others were coins only, we never knew which line we were in and we had some close calls. There's really nothing to prepare tourists like us for that sort of situation, except for the RS book.
JSGoldsberry
Jackson, MS USA Thu 10/21/2004
Chateau du bosq
Correction of spelling, I found the right spelling on an Internet search. If you are traveling Normandy in a car, this is a great place to stay. Historical, inexpensive, great breakfast, close to the sights...
Richard
Bellingham, WA USA Wed 10/20/2004
Great Lodgings Deleted
I used Rick's France 2002 guidebook to do two wonderful trips to France. I was recently looking at the 2004 France guidebook and saw that two of my favorite places (that Rick had recommended in 2002) were now deleted.
The Chateau du Bosc in Normandy was wonderful! 700 year old chateau with a moat--lots of mysterious beauty and newly remodeled rooms. Great price and nice owners. Even though the phone call was a little tricky because the woman spoke no english, we managed to convey our intentions. The breakfast was super and we met a charming British couple retracing one of their father's footsteps who had landed during the invasion. I have great memories of my stay there and am saddened that others will miss out on the option to go there.
Another neat place was in Isle-sur-la-surgue. I don't remember the name of it, but it is right on the water with some waterview rooms. It has a nice restaurant on the first floor. It is right on a main street where the river goes under the road. The owners also were nice and the place was very charming and inexpensive.
Rick, you may need to rethink removing these two places--they were gems!
Richard
Bellingham, WA USA Thu 10/14/2004
Local tours
Your recommendation for Acco-Dispo tours in Amboise was very good.We also found an excellent one in Avignon for Provence tours, all day or half days. Fil Franck Tours. www.filfranck.com. I had found them on the internet, made the reservations, paid before we went. They showed up at the hotel last week right on time and were extremely informative, providing a very pleasant day of "All Provence" for 8 people. Perfect for someone like us who did not want to rent a car.
Liann White <email>
Columbus, OH USA Wed 10/13/2004
Hotel La Breche
The Hotel La Breche was one of the most charming places that my husband and I encountered on our two week tour of France. Because we were traveling by train, the hotel was just a short walk from the station. We took a noon train from Paris and arrived in Amboise with plenty of time to tour the Amboise Chateau, and DaVinci's home as well as take in the many shops. The following day, we had arranged for a full day tour of the Chateaux with Acco-Dispo. Breakfast and Dinner were included in the hotel rates. A great idea after a long day of sight-seeing!!
Marge Calcaterra <email>
St. Louis, MO USA Wed 10/13/2004
France hotels
We spent 3 weeks in France in September and mostly used Rick's book to plan the trip. We had a fantastic time! The rue Cler was a great area to stay in and the Grand Hotel Leveque was good value.
We took the TGV to Avignon to pick up our rental car (booked from home with Avis, no problems at all). We stayed at a small hotel called Mas la Bonoty, just outside of Pernes-les-Fontaines. It was a great location for exploring the area east of Avignon but too much driving if sightseeing to the west. The hotel was very charming. Les Beaux and Roussillon were my favorites.
Albi - we took Rick's advice to stay here on the way from Provence to the Dordogne. The drive is scenic but slow. We didn't have enough time to explore Albi or the surrounding area. We stayed at the Hotel St. Clair. Michelle was helpful but the room was awful. The very smallest room of our trip, you could barely walk around the bed. There was also a definite sewage smell wafting in through the window. The private parking cost 8euros a night and there is only one spot available in her garage. It was a disappointment but I would go back to see more of that area.
Sarlat - this was a highlight of our trip. We stayed at the chambre d'hote Toulemon in Rick's book. It was a huge room with a small balcony overlooking the main square. Breakfast was generous and only 5euros.
I would like to see some more info in the book on Cahors and the Lot river valley. Towns like St.- Cirq-Lapopie deserve exploration. If driving between the Loire and the Dordogne it is easy to stop in LeMans to see the auto museum and the race circuit. It was a highlight for my husband!
Loire - the chateaus were all wonderful. We stayed at the Hotel le Blason in Amboise, which I would recommend. They are in the process of redecorating, have done some rooms and to do the common areas this winter. It was a great home base. Don't try to explore west of Tours from here as too much driving on slow roads. The Tank Museum in Saumur was excellent,especially before going to Normandy.
Normandy - Bayeux was very nice, stayed at the Hotel d'Argouges, one of our nicer rooms. Good location. We explored the D-Day Beaches on our own. Although the Caen Memorial is excellent, I felt that 17euros each was too much. It was very crowded (midweek in the morning!).
Brittany - Mont St. Michel - the audioguide toiur of the abbey was very worthwhile. Just get out of town by noon or you will be run over by the masses. St. Malo was enjoyable, and the walk on the ramparts is a must. We stayed in Dinan at le Logis de Jerzual - what a jewel! This was our favorite hotel of the whole trip and Dinan was great.We did well with our driving but it would be helpful if Rick's maps of the town centres could be expanded. It caused some confusion with the one way streets. I always tried to get to the TI to get a map of the town as soon as I could.
We did not have any problems with the service in any of the restuarants,cafes or hotels. I really do believe that the secret is to learn a few words of French and be polite. Thanks Rick...your book was invaluable and we had a great holiday.
Susan Malo <email>
Lethbridge, Alberta Canada Tue 10/12/2004
France trip
We spent 11 days in France in late September, early October. Perfect weather. 4 days in Provence was headquartered at the Hotel Musee. Great place to stay..nice rooms and people, great location. Brin du Thym and La Boheme restaurants were excellent. Pont du Gard, Avignon, and Nimes were all worthwhile side trips. Lot's of ancient roman ruins. Three nights at the Riviera town of Villefranche sur Mer were perfect. Beautiful town. Hotel Welcome treats you well and the views are top shelf. The Citadel is a fantastic fortress.
Nights in Paris on Rue Cler. Hotel La Motte Pique was very nice, and just off Rue Cler. Versailles is great, but huge. Be prepared for a lot of walking. Opera Garnier is a great one hour place to tour.
Herb <email>
Crescent Springs, KY USA Mon 10/11/2004
B&Bs, cheaper travel, French kindness
This was our first trip to France,12 days. We can't say enough goog things about the first B&B we stayed at, Les Granges du Carlucet, just north of Sarlat. The place was out in the beautiful countryside, and Eric and Helen were the best possible hosts for unsure travelers. They are transplanted Brits who speak French fluently and know what their boarders' would like to see. We got wine when we arrived, directions, lowdown on local sights, and maps for country walks. In the 5 days we stayed in Dordogne, we never had a bad or even mediocre meal because we always took their advice for dinners.
Provence was beautiful, we loved Pont du Gard and Vaison la Romaine and Arles. We will skip Avignon on our next trip, we thought it grungy and seedy. Our hostess in Provence was an excellent cook (she offered dinner 3 nights a week)and the place was rustice and pretty, but she wasn't very helpful on places to visit or how to get there.
One note on travel: we flew from Marseille to Paris. We were going to take the TGV, but it was 144.00 each coach. We got a flight on Easyjet for 68.00 for both, and got there one hour earlier with no hassle.
Our last 2 days were in Paris. Hotel Muguet deserves more space in your book. It was immaculate and the staff very efficient. They pointed us to a neighborhood chocolatier around the corner from them, Hevin, where got excellent chocolates at less than the big stores on Champs d Elysees.
All of the French people we met were helpful and kind. We had a businessman in Paris help us get Metro tickets, so don't believe all the bad press you hear about the French! Tn & Kathy Zayatz- Hello from South Jersey!
Barbara & John Ranieri <email>
Bridgeton, NJ USA Mon 10/11/2004
Arles
Arles was a beautiful beautiful town. In a three week course on modern art in France I must say that I cherished the five days in Arles, even though I didn't expect to like life away from city life in Paris. Hotel De la Rhone has fre breakfast of coffee/tea and bread and the is clean and friendly. May I also suggest 2 euro sangria at a little hole in the war bar adn tobac up the hill from the park, behind the arena. Wonderful summer evenings those were!!
Mir <email>
Seattle, WA USA Mon 10/04/2004
Wonderful French
Please if you have any reservations about "The French"let me tell say they were wonderful to my sister and me.Twice a French couple gave us a lift to our hotels when we were lost.Believe me I could go on but the space does not allow.The French are polite,friendly and extremely helpful and like Americans.Maybe not politics but the people.YES.Visit France its beautiful,interesting and a great experience.Josephine
Josephine P. Duffy <email>
Osprey, Fl. USA Sat 10/02/2004
France and hotels
We just returned from a two week stay in France (Samur,Sarlat,Carcassone,Arles,Thiers, Orleans,) For 2 great B&B listings see that Graffitti Board. Arles was our biggest disappointment. Antenna on car ripped off, difficult to navigate or park with a car (we do have a lot of experience with cars in medieval cities). Expected more of the Hotel l'Amphitheatre but it was OK just don't look for the front of the bldg. to look like the picture on the website-you'll pass it by.
Madame Rousseau in Beaune (listied in RS France 2004)is a hoot. You must reserve by mail and she will send you a letter confirming your reservation. Don't expect to check in before 6PM though. You also can't leave before 7:30 AM.Nice traditional French hotel though and well worth the money.
Wonderful alternative to staying in Samur is l'Abbye Fontevraud about 15 minutes away. Hotel "La Croix Blanche" (www.fontevraud.com) is just across the street from the abbey where Richard the Lion Heart, Eleanor of Acquataine, and Henry II are resting. Good value, two excellent restaurants- one a semi-dress place (clean shirt and jeans) and the other a creperie.
As previously experience twice before, the French people we met and dealt with were friendly if not downright warm and we had a great time.
TN and Kathy Zayatz <email>
Vernon, NJ USA Sun 09/26/2004
Just returned from France
My wife and I just returned from a two week trip to France; Rouen, Bayeux, Dinan, Chenonceaux and Paris. We stayed at hotels recommended by the "France 2004" book and ate at many of the recommended restaurants as well.
The French people were uniformly polite and friendly; we did not encounter any of the rumored rudeness. We would attempt our best French and things worked well. Also, no hostility at all regarding Iraq.
Best hotels we stayed in were the Hotel la Roseraie in Chenonceaux and Hotel d'Argouges in Bayeux. Both exceptional values run by friendly and professional people. Best meal of the whole trip was at La Casa de Sergio in the Rue Cler neighborhood of Paris. Not that we didn't enjoy the French food, which we did, but the atmosphere and food at Sergio's was out of this world. What a great host he is.
Also memorable was a lunch time stop in Brittany, within sight of Mont St. Michel where we had the very best mussels in the world.
It was great fun encountering other holders of the blue books and often we would seek them out to take our photos in front of one site or another. What a great trip.
Wayne Beckwith <email>
Loveland, OH USA Sun 09/26/2004
Re avoid Arles overnight -Don't Avoid!
We spent two nights in Arles in early June and we loved it. The old section of the city is definitely not car-friendly, but it is picturesque and fun to explore on foot. There are several walking tours marked by small signs, including the Van Gogh tour where "easels" (10 in all, if I remember correctly) show copies of what he painted on the spot.
The food in Arles is marvelous, whether you buy from the market, grab a bite at one of the hole-in-the-wall pizza shops or dine outdoors in the Place du Forum in the shadow of Frederic Mistral's statue.
All Rick's recommendations that we tried in Arles were right on, particularly the Hotel de l'Amphitheatre, which was the nicest place we stayed during our entire visit to France.
James and Marion Calloway
Durham, NC USA Thu 09/23/2004
Normandy Battlebus tours
re: Battlebus tour Bayeaux, France Myriam Woodadge ownerIn June my husband Pete and I spent an incredible day with Dale and Gregory on the Battlebus Full Day American Tour. It couldn't have been better. Traveling with them was like being with old friends.
Dale's descriptions were vivid along with being informative. He spoke in a conversational way, not like someone who had learned a script. It was obvious he thoroughly enjoyed what he was doing. My husband is very interested in Normandy and they exchanged comments about "Normandy" and "World War II" movies they enjoyed. As I recall Dale said he had over 1000 films.
The van was extremely comfortable. My husband is a big guy and I was concerned. I looked on Rick Steves Graffiti wall and contacted someone who had done one of your tours and she assured me we would be fine.
It was amazing and moving to be able to be on Utah and Omaha beaches and in the actual bunkers. The museums with pictures, uniforms, boots and more items from our soldiers really hit home.
I especially remember Dale taking us off the beaten track to the village where the story that was turned in to the "Band of Brothers" movie had been set. To see the hedgerows that had been sheared off by the plane was quite an experience. The monument in the shape of the plane's tail fin was so telling of how our troops were appreciated.If we had been on a large tour bus we never would have seen this so I'm especially pleased that we chose Battlebus.
The beauty, perfection, and tranquility of the American Cemetery are etched in my mind. Until you are there it is really difficult to appreciate the feeling one gets in seeing row upon row of crosses and Stars of David, placed with precision overlooking the gorgeous coastline.We have told many people about your wonderful young company and hope it continues to grow so more can know the stories of the war. Dale was exceptional!Contact Myriam Woodadge the owner at office@battlebus.fr couldn't have been nicer. Theirwebsite is http://www.battlebus.fr/
Marti Varney <email>
Acton, MA USA Tue 09/14/2004
Re avoid Arles overnight -Don't Avoid!
We loved historic Arles. We stayed 2 nights and loved wandering around the Roman ruins, buying at the market and eating at the Cafe De La Nuit as painted by Van Gogh. Our car was parked for us (thank goodness!) by hotel staff. Our hotel, Hotel Arlatan, was fascinating(built over exposed Roman ruins) and very comfortable.
Margaret Mitchell
Milwaukee, WI USA Mon 09/13/2004
Avoid Arles overnight
When travelling in Provence this last May, we took Rick's suggestion and 'homebased' in Arles instead of Avignon. We did consider staying in Cassis but felt it wasn't as centralized as Arles. Big mistake! Arles streets were hard to navigate with a car, the city was dirty, very little parking, and not much to see. Cassis was a bit out-of-the-way but beautiful. Then we visited Isle-sur-la-Sorgue!! It's really not much further than Arles either. We loved this town and, had we had our luggage with us, we would never have returned to Arles. It was quite a disappointment to have to drive back there each evening after a beautiful day away. Our visit to this town was a memorable highlight of Provence.
B Lewis
Edmonds, WA USA Fri 09/10/2004
I stayed at the St. Georges hotel in Nice and thought it was great. It was a very short walk to the train station and about 15 minutes walking to the beach. Jacques was a great host. Thanks for the recommendation Rick!
Amy
USA Sun 09/05/2004
recommendation for future books
The guidebook was very helpful overall, especially in providing interesting and informative history for each area of the country. However, the book could be improved with additional maps of France. I could have used a more detailed map for each region, and even a map for each major city (ex. Nice, Lyon). The hand-drawn maps are useful to a point, but a more detailed map would have been better for exploring beyond the designated area, finding hotels in a city, etc.
Allison <email>
New Orleans, LA USA Tue 08/31/2004
Provence/Nice
We used many of Rick's recommendations, and never went wrong. We stayed at the Hotel d'Musee in Arles which was lovely, and the people were great. The Lafayette Hotel in Nice was very convenient and extremely reasonable. Although we are vegetarians, careful use of Rick's restaurant suggestions was useful. We drove over to Cannes for a day, despite Rick's cautions, and loved it as well as the hill country. The TGV train from Paris and from Avignon to Nice was an extraordinary travel experience we would highly recommend. Thanks Rick!!
Rita & Barry <email>
Vienna, VA USA Sat 08/28/2004
Eurail Pass
As always, travelling "with Rick" was great. We have one caution for users of the Eurail Pass. Be sure to fill in the date before boarding the train. If the conductor finds the date missing, s/he WILL fine you E10 per day!!
Barry & Rita Altman <email>
Vienna, VA USA Sat 08/28/2004
Provence area
This was our fourth trip to France using Rick Steve's books for all of our planning and accommodations. We always travel by train and rent a car in the rural areas. Our first week was spent in Italy and then we headed by train to Nice. In Nice we stayed this time at Hotel Clemenceau where there is a very friendly and homey atmosphere. The only disadvantage is the stairs if you have a lot of luggage. However, the location is convenient to Old Nice as well as the train station. By train we went to Arles and spent one night at Hotel Regence. We had a beautiful, clean and comfortable room overlooking the river. What a great city with so much to see.
We rented a car the next day and drove to Pont du Gard to see the Roman Aqueduct (fantastic!) and stopped at Les Baux on our way to the Vaison-la-Romaine area where we spent a week at L'Ecole Buissonniere B&B. Monique and John were superb hosts and gave us invaluable assistance in planning our sightseeing jaunts. There is much to see and do in this area and John was most helpful in offering suggestions and tips on the best places to go and mapping out the best routes to take. It was late June/early July so we were able to see the Lavender in bloom (it was outstanding!). We drove up to Mt. Ventoux for a spectacular view. One day was spent in Orange to see the Roman Theatre and Arch. Market day in Vaison-la-Romain was fun. We even took the TGV to Paris one day (which might have been a bit over-ambitious, but it worked out OK!) We have always found Rick Steve's books to be completely accurate and up to date each time we travel to Europe.
Michelle & Barry
Alden, NY USA Tue 08/24/2004
Paris...j'adore
I love every minute I spend in Paris--but love it even more when it doesn't cost too much. With the dollar undervalued--or the Euro overvalued--common sense says to purchase as much as you can before you go in USD. (hotel, rental car, museum passes etc.) Double check the price in Euro to see if you are getting a better deal.I almost bought Metro passes in USD--but checked the Paris Metro website and saved 30% by waiting to buy in Euro.
Michael <email>
Alpine, UT USA Tue 08/24/2004
Near Sarlat, what a welcome.
Thank you all so much for recommending for us to stay with Phil and Anne at Chateau Nineyrol/ Their 'chambres hotes' was so comfortable and right in the middle of all the chateaux in the area with perfect views across the Dordogne river valley.
They spoiled us from the moment we arrived, helped us plan our trips every day so that we didn't get caught up in the crowds, La Roque Gageac is stunning and the Belle Etoile a superb resturant, But Sarlat must be the best of all, especially in the evenings. We really didn't realize that there was so much to see and do in the area.
Thanks to all who recommended them.
Scott and Denise Moore <email>
Paradise, CA USA Fri 08/13/2004
Provence Farm Home
We returned this year to our favorite B&B in France for the third time. It is a beautiful farm house in Provence, not far from Isle Sur la Sorgue. They have added more bedrooms and a second pool, this one for adults only. Isabelle and Roland, the owners are warm and welcoming, and Isabelle and her son Julian are excellent cooks. A large breakfast is served at 9 a.m., outside with Isabell's homemade jams included! Most nights we dine outside under the large trees in the courtyard, with views of the Luberon. The meals start with appetizers and drinks, with guests from all over Europe then continue with several courses, including the cheese course, dessert and tea and coffee. Dinner rarely ends before 11 p.m. and is such a treat. Cost is 25 Euros per person. The link below shares our personal pictures of this special place.
http://share.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=EeAN2jdkybNmjDWA
or their web site is:
www.lestroisfiguiers.fr
Julian's rooms are actually in the same home and his house name is Sous l'Olivier and I think there is a link to them on this site.
A car is necessary to stay here, but they have adequate parking, although we have played boules in the gravel lot in the past (while enjoying wine!!) Most guests are repeaters so we know others love this B&B as much as we do.
Lorrie
Lorrie <email>
Cincinnati, Oh USA Thu 08/12/2004
Chambre d'Hote in the Loire
For an excellent Chambre d'Hote in the Loire Valley...
try "Les Sarments" in the village of Candes Saint Martin. It's a lovely stone house with charming rooms. The owners will give you a warm welcome and there's a great variety of homemade jams with your croissants in the morning. A beautiful, peaceful location with a great view and garden. The house is made of the local white stone called tuffeau. The village is between Tours and Angers -- the 2 major cities in the Loire Valley. Here's a link to their site which includes pictures of each room and rate info: http://lessarments.free.fr/ This Chambre d'Hote is also listed in the Gites de France. The Email contact is: sarments@wanadoo.fr
--- Happy Travels in France!
monceau <email>
New York, NY USA Tue 08/10/2004
Provence, Loire Valley
My family is just back from a month in Europe including time in Provence and the Loire Valley. Some highlights to pass on: the Marc Chagall museum in Nice is phenomenal. Whatever you think about the paintings, at least it makes you THINK..... Few paintings, but a terriic setting. How refreshing to see a modern look at biblical stories after a couple of weeks of Renaissance "high art" at the Uffizi, Accademia, Doge's Palace, etc.
Only stay in Cannes if you can use some hotel reward points! The height of ridiculousness: an AMG Mercedes Gelandewagen (useful for safaris) motionless in the Cannes traffic. Many 55 yr old guys with 30 yr old companions!
Stayed at the Hotel du Musee in Arles: old and delightful very very nice owners. Recommend purchasing the 7 Euro parking, altho' when the owner drives off down the one car wide street with your car you wonder where on earth he's going to put it. Les Baux is an absolute 3 star attraction: old city, great views, not many tourists.
In the Loire Valley we stayed at a farmhouse/mill I found on the internet without Rick's books. A family room for 69 Euros, girls slept upstairs. Owner cooked duck, trout, etc from the farm. Local wine for 4 Euros, blissful desserts, cheeses, aperitifs, pates,.... Moulin de Saussaye in L'ile Bouchard. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Ray Clarke <email>
Malvern, PA USA Mon 08/09/2004
If you're not a morning person...
i'm sure it is excellent advice to visit popular museums and sites first thing in the morning to beat the crowds. but if you're not a morning person, i found that going in the evening is great too. we went to see mona lisa about 7 p.m., soon after we arrived at the Louvre, and there were only a dozen other people in the room. we stopped by again on our way out and had her all to ourselves. she is lovely in such an intimate atmosphere. and most restaurants are still lively and serving dinner after 10. be sure to find out ahead of time which day(s) the museum is open late.
Kate <email>
WA USA Fri 08/06/2004
poor room; Hotel danieli Avignon
Hotel Danieli in Avignon was dissappointing. Our stay was 3 nights and our toilet overflowed every night. We told the front desk the first time it happened but they couldn't help & said they'd call a plumber; nobody came. There was also a huge hole in the cieling in the bathroom; large enough for a man to climb through. The alley was noisy outside as we expected so we kept our window closed. We travelled for 5 weeks and this room was the worst. All the places we stayed were in Rick's book. If you can try to stay somewhere else. They did not have another room for us.
B. Salloum
Kelowna, B.C. Canada Thu 08/05/2004
Hunting Dogs at Cheverny
My daughters (ages 12 and 13) and I planned one of our days to be sure that we were at the chateau in Cheverny for the 5:00 feeding of the hunting dogs. Based on the write-up in the guide book, my youngest had listed this as one of her "must see's" as we planned our trip. This forced a hard choice on us on the day in question -- whether or not to pass up the Da Vinci exhibit at the Clos Luce in Amboise. We opted for the dogs. Alas, there was no feeding. We were there about a half hour early and hung around the kennel to be sure we had a good view (and in any case, the canines were a kick to watch). 5:00 came . . . and went. No announcement, no handler. The group watching the dogs dispersed. We went back to the ticket office and asked about the feeding time and were treated to a great rolling of French eyes. "We don't feed them EVERY day" was the only explanation. By all means, drop by Cheverny and see if it is one of the lucky days. I bet it is a sight to see since it was entertaining without the food. Just don't pass up anything else in order to be there.
Jim W. <email>
Kirkland, WA USA Mon 08/02/2004
Bayeux
We want to strongly second Rick's recommendation of Le Petit Normand. This restaurant was fantastic! Food was delicious (we both had chicken with a calvados & mushroom flavored sauce), crowd was local, service was friendly, and the price was very reasonable. If you sit windowside there's a great view of the lit-up cathedral at night.
As to hotel, Rick's recommendations were full so we stayed at the Hotel Churchill - location was fantastic and the room was drab but not too small. We would stay there again, especially for the price.
Gray Fontenot
Falls Church, VA USA Sat 07/31/2004
Loire Hotels
We just spent three nights at the Hotel Rosarie in Chenonceaux. It is the most beautiful and charming country hotel you could imagine - flowers everywhere. The food is fantastic. Is it possible they serve the best croissants in France - like crisp air. Laurent and Sophie could not be more friendly or helpful. A nice walk to the chateau. Don't miss it.
Brian
Nazareth, PA USA Thu 07/29/2004
Paris Metro
Rick needs more detail on negotiating the Paris Metro on the segments that overlap the RER. We were there four days and I still haven't figured it out.
Brian
Nazareth, PA USA Thu 07/29/2004
France
Rented a car through Auto Europe; there was a mistake on my reservation resulting in additional cost which they graciously refunded.
Really enjoyed Le Logis du Jerzual. Sylvie fussed over us and made us feel very welcome.
Mont St. Michel is well worth a night's stay. It is positively magical after dark after all the hordes have gone.
There is a minor mistake on the Honfleur map. Hotel L'Absinthe is marked as being above the restaurant when it is actually across the street as described in the book. This hotel was convenient and quite nice. It is definitely for the self-sufficient traveler as the desk was often not staffed. It is one of the few lodgings where we kept the room key.
Had a memorable dinner at La Terrasse de L'Assiette.
Took a Victory Tour of the D-Day beaches. It was excellent; my kids loved it.
If you want to get intellectual before your trip you can purchase series of college lectures at The Great Courses. I found these to be very high quality with a variety of topics to refresh what I long since forgot (or never knew!).
S. Barrows <email>
Fresno, CA USA Tue 07/27/2004
Loire Valley Wine Tours
If you are looking for wine tours or chateau tours in the Loire be sure to contact Pascal Mimeau. My wife and I had an unbelievably wonderful time. Pascal was able to open doors that we never would have found. We were able to visit three different wineries, meet the wine makers and taste some delicious wine. You can reach him at (33) 02-54-33-95-95 or pmineau@val-de-loire-prestige.com, or check out his website val-de-loire-prestige.com.
Brian
Nazareth, PA USA Mon 07/26/2004
Enjoying Sarlat
Several people mentioned problems at a certain hotel in Sarlat. I've always stayed at the Relais de Moussidiere and loved it. The staff is friendly and the breakfast is fresh with many choices. It's not in the old town, but if you're there, chances are you have a rental car anyway, and this quaint hotel is only 5 minutes or so from the center of old town. If you can find your way through the winding streets of the old city, try Le Presidial for great food and a nice outdoor terrace dining experience (not for you if you don't like cats, which are watchful but not pesky guardians). Make sure you visit the nearby towns of Larroque Gegauac and Domme, and visit the restaurant at the edge of the overlook over the Dordogne river in Domme (can't remember the name). Great food and beautiful view, make sure you get a window seat.
John Stubel <email>
Dallas, TX USA Fri 07/23/2004
France trip
Thanks for the great hotel recommendations. We stayed in Hotel Rapp in Colmar for 5 nights and made 3 side trips easily by train. Then we stayed in Beaune for 5 nights at the Hetel des Ramparts. Both hotels were great and a welcome experience after our stay in Paris at Hotel de la Paix. (See Paris Graffiti Wall.) We were so impressed with the Hotel Dieu in Beane. That fellow Nicholas Rolin was wonderful to build it for the poor people. We need someone like that in our time! We went everywhere by train or bus. France has wonderful public transportation. That's something else we need over here!
Enid Cleary <email>
Wilmette, IL USA Fri 07/23/2004
D-Day
I had a great tour of the D-Day beaches because of Rick Steve's tip on "the friendly Dutch couple" who run a bed & breakfast out of a spectacular 18th Century chateau called Lignerolle in the town of Planquerey near Bayeux in Normandy.
Roel (pronounced "rule") and Pia Kinkhamer are gracious hosts, and Roel is an expert on "Le Debarquement", as the French call it ("The Landing").
Also, everything Rick Steve said about Chamonix in the French Alps being crowded but worth the visit is true.
Rev. John Zingaro <email>
Cottage Grove, WI USA Wed 07/21/2004
Nice Hotel
Hotel Les Cigales in Nice had super friendly and helpful staff and was a wonderful place to stay while enjoying Nice!! Great location and close walk to beach, train station and old town. Super comfortable and well appointed rooms with perfect air conditioning.
Carla
Seattle, WA USA Mon 07/19/2004
Counting your Change in France
The only negative experience we had in France - all over France for 17 nights - was that quite a few vendors and clerks tried to short change us. We caught them many times (adding up bills incorrectly or just giving us the wrong amount of change).
We suggest not only always counting your change; also, try to pay with exact change rather than often getting change from $20 euros. Keep the large bills for lodging.
Becky McIntyre <email>
San Jose, ca USA Tue 07/06/2004
Auberge de la Reine Jeanne (hotel), St. Remy, France
We spent 17 nights in France, relying heavily on Rick Steves' books and travel consultants. The only lodging disappointment was Auberge de la Reine Jeanne in St. Remy. Rick's book says the hotels take a backseat to the restaurant (which has great food). More accurate would be "The hotel is an extremely noisy dump. Clean but totally run down." We left after 1 of 3 reserved nights.
As a restaurant, however, the hotel provides some of the best food we had in France.
The town in general is lovely, for a few hours of shopping/strolling.
Becky McIntyre <email>
San Jose, ca USA Tue 07/06/2004
SNCF
I found cheaper family rail fares (Discovery fares) at SNCF than available at RailEurope. I was able to use Netscape for the SNCF website without difficulty.
Susan <email>
Fresno, CA USA Mon 07/05/2004
Chateau Nineyrol chambres d'hotes
We've justcome back from France and have to tell you that Phil and Anne at Chateau Nineyrol near Sarlat are so kind and welcoming. Just to relax and speak English was nearly the best, after the big comfy beds and the freshly sqeezed every morning.
They also know the area well, so we saw all the five Chateau from a canoe on the river-fantastic, and then spent an action packed afternoon at the 'paint-ball' in La Roque Gageac, run by Bob Dillon. we will definately be back.call them on 05 53 30 46 01
Colin and Jane Major <email>
Oxford, UK Sun 07/04/2004
Normany Tours and Lodging
For an incomparable oppoturnity to tour the invasion area of Normandy and stay in a beautiful Chateau with wonderful hosts I heartily recommend Chateau du Lingnerolles. I understand they will be recommended in Rick's 2005 book so why not start now? Roel and Pia Klinkhamer own and manage a great Chateau in the middle of the invasion area and close to Bayeux. She is a great hostess and serves a tailor made breakfast. Roel, who has studied the invasion for decades will give you a private tour at a very reasonable price. His friendly but respectful approach was appreciated by our wives as well as the men. Avoid a crowed large tour bus and do it the backdoor way. The time we spent with them was a hightlight of our thirty day visit to France, Germany, and Switzerland. You cannot go wrong with this lodging or with this tour. See their website at www.chateaudelignerolles.com or send them an email at info@chateaudelignerolles.com. Thier english is perfect.
stan biles
blue river, or USA Sat 07/03/2004
Cotes Du Rhone
Cotes du Rhone visitors should plan to have a meal at the Chateau Redortier. Rick recommend it and so do I. I ate there last week. It is near the southern end of Rick's Cotes Du Rhone. We did the tour in reverse and it was a perfect place for lunch. Great food. Very reasonable prices, and as we were their only custormers the family gave us the royal treatment. Maybe the nicest restrooms in all of France.
stan biles
blue river, or USA Sat 07/03/2004
Rail Travel
Please expand your coverage of the French rail system. Or, maybe not expand so much as provide an overview. I got totally lost and confused trying to figure out all the different services: SNCF, TGV, RER, Metro, RTF, ....
The following info would have helped me:
1) When searching for info online, you MUST use IE for your browser. Much of the SNCF's info is inaccessible with Netscape.
2) For planning rail travel intra-France, you only need to use the SNCF website. It includes rail travel for all routes (other than the Metro).
3) Trying to book tickets online from the US (if you are not fluent in French) is primarily an exercise in frustration. I spent hours and hours trying to figure it out -- and came out worse off financially than if we had simply booked and bought our tickets in France 2 days before travelling.
4) Does the SNCF ever sell out? If not, it'd be great for us to know that, so we don't panic about getting tickets in advance. If they do sometimes sell out, what's the minimum time beforehand one needs to buy a ticket? (E.g., is one day ahead always safe?)
5) Are any passes for intra-France travel recognized on the Metro?
Aleta <email>
USA Sat 07/03/2004
Lodging in Carcassone; restaurant in Collioure
1) In Carcassonne, Rick recommends the chambre d'hote of Madame Cordonnier. We stayed there 3 nights. It really is great. Our room was spacious, clean, pretty, quiet, and incredibly cheap. Also, we were able to book it at practically the last minute.
2) We ate at a very nice, not-expensive restaurant in Collioure. Le Puits is on rue Arago near the intersection with rue Mailly (close to the Restaurant Le Tremail which Steves recommends). Open 12-9pm. Phone: 04 68 82 06 24.
In particular, we recommend their escalavide (grilled vegetable salad), soupe de poissons (Le Puits version of this is an ugly but totally yummy fish broth soup), the chevre and camembert served for their frommage course, and the poire belle Helene.
Aleta <email>
CA USA Sat 07/03/2004
Northern France
My wife and I spent three weeks in northern France last summer. Rick recommended most of the places we visited, and his suggestions didn't disappoint. Here are a few tips/raves/addendums.
GIVERNY Even though Giverny is close to Vernon, it can be quite a time investment to get there. The best way to see the gardens is to stay the night in Giverny and view the gardens first thing in the morning. In Giverny we stayed at a great chamberes d'hotes called Le Coir des Artistes near Monet's Gardens. The gardens were beautiful. By the time we left (1.5 hrs after they were open) the place was taken over by tour groups and had lost its appeal.
You'll either like or hate (you know what I mean) the Satie museum in Honfleur. It's the weirdest/silliest museum I've ever seen. Its not a must see by any means, but if you have an odd sense of humor like myself, you might enjoy it.
LOIRE VALLEY A post on the 'Heroic B&B friendliness' board raves about La Chevalerie, a b&b recommended by Rick just outside of Amboise. I would have to agree. This modest and spacious farmhouse was incredibly cute. The owner M. Aleksic was kind and friendly. We chatted with him for a while, and the next morning he offered us his fresh eggs for breakfast. When we left I felt guilty. The price he charges guest are so cheap I felt we were stealing! The best French B&B we stayed at hands down.
Le Close Luce (Da Vinci's house) in Amboise was fascinating. Placing life size models of Da Vinci's sketches and models in the house and throughout the surrounding grounds was genius. It was one of my favorite places in France. Cheverny Chateau was fun, but I don't think it's a must see. The incredibly towering Chambord was our favorite chateau. The interior is very empty. To make it come alive, I highly recommend taking the English tour of the chateau. The tour is heavy on the chateau's history and travels though parts of the building closed to most visitors.
Will <email>
Vancouver, WA USA Thu 07/01/2004
Dordogne
We stayed in an absolutely terrific place (Le Moulin Neuf) in Paunat,a great value, great hosts. Heartily reccomend it. I also think you should expand on your Dordogne section--many really wonderful sights and villages you don't mention.
James Pugh <email>
Vienna, VA USA Mon 06/28/2004
Provence
We just spent a lovely two weeks in Paris and Provence. Following Rick's guidebook we stayed for two nights at L'Ermitage near Vaison-la-Romaine. It is in an absolutely wonderful location. You have a fabulous view, and the hosts are very helpful in suggesting wineries and villages to visit. We also enjoyed the pool, particularly since we had our two young children with us. We are hoping to rent one of their apartments for a week when we return to France next year.
The villages along Rick's Cotes du Rhone wine tour are also quite wonderful. We spent a day in Arles, and found that a bit disappointing after our time in Vaison-la-Romaine. It was worth seeing the Coliseum, but I was very glad that we had only planned to spend a day in Arles.
Terri, Austin, TX (form
Terri
Austin, TX USA Sun 06/27/2004
Returning from France - My recommendations
My wife and I just returned from France - four days in Normandy and Brittany and two days in Paris (in addition to one week in Switzerland and Germany- my comments on those countries in the other board).
Anyways I wish to add comments to Rick Steve's and Steve Smith's book, which I found excellent.
For Paris:
1)Do not expect Taxi drivers to drive you a short distance - Twice I asked for one to drive us for distances of about 10 minutes, which would cost about 10 Euros. This was for trips to and from the Roissy bus stop at the Opera while arriving and leaving Paris w/ our bags. Both times they told me to take the subway! This was quite inconvenient as there are many steps to climb in the subway stations with bags.
2)Do not eat in the Latin Quarter. This area is full of restaurants with men aggressively hawking their businesses to tourists. I was very suspicious but my wife and I were tired so we settled to eat in one of these places - the meal was the worst I've ever paid for (really). I don't think my experience would be much different in the other restaurants in this area. Rick and Steve list this as one of the areas of disappointment in Paris. I think they should go one step further and suggest not to eat here either.
3)When visiting the Louvre, I recommend going first thing when it opens at 9am and then heading straight to see the Mona Lisa. Soon after the museum opens, the area around the painting gets crowded - the museum even sets up a que for seeing this painting.
4)Hotel Castex is wonderful. Quiet, brand new bathrooms and furnishings. Although breakfast is not included (10 Euros). The cost of 140 Euros is well worth the extra price.
On taking train to Rouen:
1) My wife and I took the train to Rouen from Gare St. Lazare as soon as we arrived. I knew this would be painful as this was a 1.75 hour ride after flying overnight, but did not realize the train ride would make it worst. The train was very crowded - people even sat on the floor between the train cars. We had to settle for a smoking section which was a rude awakening for us. Don't know if this is typical of all trains from Paris to Rouen, but just wanted to let others know. We took this on a Sunday mid-morning too. My suggestion would be to get a reserved seat on this train in a non-smoking car or take the TGV to another city for a smoother ride.
Re. Normandy:
1)NST tours offers an afternoon American Beaches tour from Bayeux which was excellent - led by a local guy who is very knowledgeable, enthusiatic and friendly.
2) Hotel Lion D'Or in Bayeux was a bit of a disappointment. Room had strong tobacco odor. Shower drain did not work. Restaurant was very good, however. Felt a little under dressed - many others wore dresses, coat/tie.
3)Driving through Normandy and Brittany was a breeze for a first-timer- signs very clear and universal. Would definitely get a Michelin map as soon as you pick-up the car. Hertz gave great service. A diesal car is key - only spent about 17 Euros for about 200 miles of driving a Peugeot compact station wagon (that had a lot of zip).
3) Dropped off car in Rennes to take TGV back to Paris. This is a good option as this shaved off hours it would take to drive to Paris, not to mention the stress of driving in the big city, which I do not recommend.
Joel
Sacramento, CA USA Sat 06/26/2004
Nice in the South of France - the place to be!
I love France, and definately the Cote D'Azur. A great idea for a learning vacation is to spend a few weeks in the south of France, learning the language and visiting the sites with the locals. I would reccommend visiting www.lingoplanet.com, they offer programs for beginner to advanced students, and excursions to visit the Cote D'Azur. They have been welcoming international students for years, and include courses and housing -- you can stay with a french host family or have your own apartment in the centre of Nice --just like you are a local!
Great for anyone of all ages!
Alison <email>
Nice, France Thu 06/24/2004
Matisse in Nice
In Nice, you will want to take the Bus up to the Matisse museum as Rick suggests (and then walk down to the Chagall, don't even think about walking up to Matisse from Chagall...) but the guidebook steers you to catch the bus (no. 15) on the opposite side of the street (Jean Medecin) that you want to catch it on...you'll eventually get there either way, but you will circle circle circle throughout Nice first...there were other RS guidebooks fans on the bus and we clung to each other, wondering if ever we would climb that hill to see the Matisse Musee! But we did, and just remember Matisse first, walk down to Chagall, and you'll be very happy. And if the lovely woman from Bellingham Washington reads this, that we met on that loooong bus ride to the Matisse, I would love to hear from her to see how the remainder of her trip went!
Bonnie Russ <email>
Saint Paul, MN USA Wed 06/23/2004
France
We just returned from 16 days--mostly in France. We thoroughly enjoyed the trip, thanks again to Rick, his staff and his guidebook. We "don't leave home without it" (having read and studied it first of course).
After a couple of days in Paris (we've been there several times before), we struck out for some cities and areas of France that we had not visited.
Amboise is a wonderful city and a great base for exploring the Loire valley. We stayed at La Breche and took (for the first time ever) the half-pension. This was a very good decision and we highly recommend it to others. The meals were fantastic! Christian and the staff did everything possible to make you feel at home. We happend to arrive on Market Day! Try to be in Amboise on Market Day--it was definitely one of the highlights of our trip. This is a good opportunity to get next to the real people of France.
We traveled by TGV (from Paris--quickest route) next to Avignon. It's a good home base to explore Provence. However, if you're looking for an internet cafe, it will take some luck and patience. The Planet, mentioned in Rick's guidebook is gone. The other one mentioned it there, but filled with teenagers playing games. It is hot, crowded and very loud (as all the young boys play the same game and shout continually during it). The bridge and Popes Palace are a must-see, but there are lots more to see and experience here in Avignon. The Hotel de Blauvac was our home in Avignon. It doesn't look too inviting on the outside, but is beautiful on the inside. Our room was large with a high ceiling and loft. Again the staff here was very helpful and friendly. We recommend it.
Colmar was our last "homebase" in France. What a beautiful city! Here, the town itself is the attraction. We fell in love with it. We stayed at Le Rapp Hotel and it was super. We can't say enough about the cheerfulness, friendliness and helpfulness of the staff. You can't do better than this in Colmar. Plan at least one day--two is better--just to walk around the town and enjoy the sights and the people.
From Colmar, we went to Strasbourg one day. You can see it in a single day easily. But, if you're following the guidebook (Rick's of course), there is a misspelling of the name of the street you turn on to go into the heart of "Petit France". Sorry, but I don't have the name with me at the moment, but it begins with a "B". It is not a serious problem, because you can find the area by a number of other streets anyway. It's only a couple of short blocks away from the main one.
During our entire trip, we never once ran into any sign or even a hint of the rumored "we hate Americans" attitude. But then we've never experienced it on any of our other trips to France either. In fact, no one was particularly rude to us, not even in Paris. It is pretty much the same throughout the world: if you treat other people with the same courtesy and respect you desire, you will get along with everyone and enjoy your travels. We did!
Ray and Kay
Clemmons, NC USA Tue 06/08/2004
Alpe d'Huez
The most famous climb in the Tour de France is up to the ski resort at Alpe d'Huez. Last month I made a sidetrip to do the climb and here's what I found out:
A bus will take you from Grenoble to the village of Bourg d'Oisans at the base of the climb. It's bus number 300 from the bus station right next to the train station in Grenoble. The ride takes an hour or an hour and a half (depending on traffic and the route the bus takes). Bourg d'Oisans is the last stop and the bus drops you right in the center of the village.
There are several inexpensive hotels and restaurants in the village and some shops. It's a nice little place.
A bike shop (Cycles et Sports) in Bourg d'Oisans will rent you a bicycle for 15 euros and point you in the right direction. The rest is up to you.
The road to Alpe d'Huez is only about 14 kilometers (8 miles). But it's up the side of the mountain (you can see much of the road and the ski resort far above you from Bourg d'Oisans). There are 21 switchbacks and they are numbered from 21 at the bottom to 1 at the top. Take water (there's water available at a restroom near turn 10), some energy bars, and a camera.
You won't be alone on the road - many other bike riders are here either training for competitions, out for a day of riding, or (like me) climbing Alpe d'Huez for the experience. The road is wide and paved and has cars and trucks on it (but it never felt unsafe).
At the top be sure to stop in at the Tourist Information Office where you can buy a very nice certificate for 1 euro to commemorate your climb (be sure to have the time it took so that they can put it on the certificate).
The trip down goes much quicker. The climb (at least for me - 53 years old and in generally good hiking and bicycling shape) was very, very tough. The bike racers can do it in about 40 minutes. My time was 2 hours and 47 minutes...
Overall it's a great experience. I highly recommend it!
Jack Fleming
Shoreline, WA USA Fri 06/04/2004
france
France is great. We stayed at the Family Home in Bayeaux, great room for couples plus huge breakfast included for 40E. In Amboise, stayed at Hotel Pergola, on the internet, funny,nice place with basic room for 36E. See the hounds being fed at Chateaux Cheverny, kinda funny, kinda sad. PH-Toulemon in Sarlat is great, nice town, beautiful area. L'Anncienne Boulangerie in Caunes-Minervois is very nice with a shared terrace. Le Piggeonier in Isle-sur-la sorge is very nice with a pool and great owners as is L'Ecole Buissonniere in Vaison-la-romaine. In Lyon, we stayed at Hotel St. Paul off the internet for 45E in Vieux Lyon. Nice owners, boring room but the location is excellent.
cheri o'brien
everett, wa USA Thu 05/27/2004
Enjoyable Arles
For the second time we were fortunate to be in Arles on May 1st for the Fete de les Gardians. The morning starts with a parade featuring incredible Camargue traditional dress (think lots of colorful taffeta with lace and silver hardware) and then in the late afternoon a 2.5 hour show is held in the Roman-era amphitheater. The arena "animal spectacular" includes agility contests involving bulls and agile young men, along with several events highlighting traditional Camargue "cowboy" skills as well as a nicely choreographed horseback musical number. This was the 492nd episode of this annual show so we expect to see it again in a few years.
And again this year we found the petit dejouner at the Hotel Calendal to be one of the better deals in town. Along with the usual fixins of coffee, juice, breads and yogurt it includes cold cuts, eggs (boil as desired), fruits and cereals for 7 euros. With a single cafe creme going for 3 euros in most places nowadays we were happy to start the day off with this one! We stayed at both the Calendal and Hotel Musee and found both to be per "le Rick" good values.
RogerM <email>
Oregon City, OR USA Sun 05/23/2004
Brittany Area: Hotel Manoir de Rigourdaine
Thanks for the info on this hotel as it was one of the best values we found during a just completed 3-week auto trip through France. A couple minor corrections to the guide are needed however. First, they do take credit cards and, second, the hotel is located on the opposite side of the highway from Plour sur Rance: it's about 1.5 km off the highway towards Langrolay, just follow the signs. This place is definitely 3 star comfort at a 2 star price and the bucolic setting was a great restorative after the noise and bustle of city lodgings. It's location is very convenient for exploring the eastern portion of Brittany including the Dinan, St. Malo, and Mont St. Michael areas.
Roger M <email>
Oregon City, OR USA Sun 05/23/2004
Take precautions
Just wanted to advise readers to be careful of bagsnatchers in Nice - especially if you're in a car, just off the freeway, trying to get your bearings. My friend had her bag snatched from under her legs while she was reading a map in the car. We were waiting for the lights to change & a guy on a motorbike stopped along side of us, reached into the car, grabbed her bag and took off! One positive thing was that the 3 cars behind us all stopped, mobile phones going mad ringing the police etc - very helpful! Keep doors locked and windows up!! However, once we recovered from the shock, we loved Nice.
A Jones
Adelaide, South Australia, AUST Sat 05/22/2004
hotel in Nice
I recently drove from Naples to Nice to pick up my parents who are in early 80s but fairly spry. We stayed at Hotel St Georges who now has I website ( whose address I misplaced. However I can not sing Jaques praises enough helping my parents, talking to my dad in the mornings at breakfast helping us with taking a bus tour of Nice and then one of his friends gave us a lift to the bus station to catch the bus to Monaco. Very inexpensive, Very quiet, great beds and super close to Nice Etoile. We had dinner at Le vin sur vin great service and wine.
carolyn
naples, Italy Thu 05/20/2004
Chartres
I much preferred Chartres cathedral to Notre Dame in Paris (where much of the interior is currently blocked off, and the stained glass is mostly grisaille). Take binoculars, as well as the Malcolm Miller tour, to really appreciate the stained glass.
Note that MM says that he always leaves town in August because it´s so full of tourists. He also told me that you can walk the labyrinth that forms part of the floor of the nave on Fridays -- it´s covered with chairs the rest of the time. I loved the old houses in the town too, maybe I´ll stay there next trip.
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC USA Thu 05/20/2004
Sarlat
Just returned from a 6 week jaunt in Europe. So many highlights, but my daughter and I both agree, that Sarlat in the Dordgone region, was the jewel in the crown.
It was like visiting a land at the top of the 'The Faraway Tree'. Our visit was further enhanced by the wonderful, welcoming accommodation at PH-Toulemon's Chambre d'Hotes, adjacent to the mediaeval town square. Had a memorable 4 hour taxi ride with Allo Philippe to Beynac, Domme, Castlenaud etc.
Unfortunately, I paid a 111 euro deposit to the Hotel des Recollets back in January, After reading the negative comments on this site, I cancelled my booking a few weeks later, only to be told there would be no refund. I have no qualms about losing my money, after reading further comments on this site.
Judy <email>
Adelaide, SA Australia Tue 05/18/2004
Great visit at Le Vieux Manoir in Amboise
Three of us stayed at the Le Vieux Manoir in Amboise in September, 2003. We stayed in the Maison de Gardien, a little house next to the manor house. Robert and Gloria were wonderful hosts. The first afternoon, they brought us a bottle of local wine to relax us after the long trip. In fact,all the breakfasts included local produce, jellies and the most wonderful baked goods. Gloria made reservations for us at two wonderful restaurants and assisted us with excellent driving directions. The manor is quiet, beautifully decorated and the grounds are in tip-top shape. I definitely recommend Amboise as a base for seeing the Loire and Le Vieux Manoir.
Christine Pon
Lakewood, CO USA Thu 05/13/2004
Roserie hotel in Chenenceau
cant say enough about the Roserie in Chenenceau! We were warmly welcomed by the very french and extremely charming Laurent who escorted us to our rose colored toile room just by the charming turret of this quaint hotel.Our room overlooked the garden with its chirpy birds. they perfume the air in france!? dinner is served in the warm and french country dining room. the food is to die for and the huge portions were seved on incredible dinnerware with great presentation! Everything here is done to perfection and with style...so French Oui?
greg
fl USA Wed 05/12/2004
back from brussels and brugge
went on a holiday weekend and there was a huge stage in the grand place in Brussels. The old men of yesteryears are rolling in their graves! what a terrble way to ruin the only place I wanted to enjoy there.there was broken glass all over the streets Get over the frites they are the same as here.dont stay at the hotel Mozart unless you want to get into political disussions on Bush and certain ethnic groups etc. Brugge was a delight.Another stage on the square in Brugge.What are they thinking? Rent a bike it is a the only way to go!!! ride to Damme for a toile-like views.guy at the station tried to rip us off for the already paid supplement on the Thaylis.Watch out
greg
fl USA Wed 05/12/2004
Normandy and Brittany
We recently returned from a quick trip to Normandy and Brittany, following many of Rick's suggestions. In Rouen the Hotel de la Cathedrale is very close to everything in town and the staff helpful and friendly. Roel Klinkhamer leads great D Day tours our of Bayeux. His energy, enthusiasm, and knowledge made a cold, wet day enjoyable, if somber. Another couple on the tour (there were only 6 people, as opposed to the big bus tours) were staying at his chateau (chambres d'hote) and said it was great. Mont St Michel was totally amazing and far exceeded our expectations.
Madame Brault at La Jacoterie runs a beautiful chambres d'hote with views of Mont St Michel from her garden and she made us feel very welcome. Madame Ronnseray at Le Logis de Jerzual in Dinan went above and beyond in helping us (whose knowledge of French is limited) rearrange car drop off locations, which even required shortening our stay with her. Her chambres d'hote is in a great old house in Dinan on a little cobblestone street. Even though it was very wet and cold the first week of May when we were there, we enjoyed the beauty of the countryside in Normandy and Brittany and the welcome of the people.
Judy Bowers
Chattanooga, TN USA Wed 05/12/2004
Amboise Hotel
We were looking for a romantic hotel in Amboise and used Rick's advice for Le Manoir les Minimes. It was a fantastic luxury hotel with a view of both the Loire river and the castle in Amboise. Marble bath, king sized bed, english speaking help and large room for a reasonable 160 Euros. We'll definitely stay there again!
Walt
Danville, ca USA Fri 05/07/2004
Provence and Riviera
Provence and Riviera.
This was the best guidebook yet. Our family used it for our two weeks in Provence and the Riviera and it was right on the mark. Excellent itineraries, tips and maps. We were there for two weeks over Easter. Great weather, not a drop of rain. People were friendly and helpful everywhere we went. Biggest surprise was the cost of food and beverages while dining out. Most restaurants charged $4-$5 for a glass of soda and $7-$8 for a pint of beer. Tap water worked fine for us. Dining out is very costly, eating habits are changing and more and more restaurants are serving pizza. Even a lot of the traditional French restaurants were serving pizza which was expensive as well at $9-$12 per personal serving. It was uniformly great though. We ate in some cafes and were disappointed by the quality of the steaks and salads. I guess you have to eat at the finer restaurants to get the real French food experience. We had a few of those as well. We spent three days on the Riviera, nine in Provence and the last two back on the Riviera. Scenery in this area of France was much more spectacular than I had imagined. The mountain ride from Nice to Menton, via Eze, La Turbie and the Monte Carlo Golf Club was awesome. The coast road from Cannes south to St. Raphael rivals the Amalfi Drive and Big Sur. The Hilltowns of Provence were beautiful. I am glad we went in the off season as we had them pretty much to ourselves. We met some locals in Lacoste and we were the only visitors there. They told us that in season the tour buses are lined up and down the road, traffic is a mess and thousands invade daily. The tradeoff is that in season it is much more colorful and pretty. The flowers and trees were just blooming in April. Highlights were the Gorges du Verdun,Roussillon,Mount Ventoux and the village market days. In the Cotes du Rhone area we liked Vaison la Romaine, Fontaine de Vaucluse and all the Roman Ruins in Orange, Pont du Gard etc. The Palace of the Popes in Avignon was enormous and unbelievable. We also saw real Spanish bullfights in the Roman arena in Arles. I was surprised that we all enjoyed them although it is bloody and pretty cruel. Aix en Provence and Cassis, and it's boatride to the Calanques, were also a lot of fun. We basically followed the two week trip as outlined in the guidebook and were busy and engaged each day. We had some excellent B&B experiences which I will write about in Heroic B&B friendliness. I would recommend this trip for anyone and will be happy to advise anyone interested.
Brian <email>
Pompano Beach, FL USA Thu 05/06/2004
simply suggestions
A few recommendations:
- Hotel Ibis in La Rochelle: It's in the center of the city and an easy walk to the port. The closer you get to the port, the more expensive the food becomes, but it's well worth the cost.
- Fountaine de Medici in Paris: This is a great spot for anyone who loves to write or read. Where else do you get to see a stegasaurous covered in ivy shooting water out of his mouth...
- Village de Vacances in Calviac near Sarlat: this is owned and operated by a family who went out of their way to ensure our stay (all 23 of us) was memorable
- O'Donnells Irish Pub in Caen: always interesting - especially the beach parties where they cover the floor in sand!
- La Plage, a restaurant near Port Javel-Haut in Paris. It's situated along the Seine near the Eiffel Tower and the mini Statue of Liberty replica. Although it's expensive, the ambiance and service was well worth it.
JT
TX USA Thu 05/06/2004
Chateau de Nazelles
In his 2004 France book, Rick Steves recommended Chateau de Nazelles (near Amboise) for a visit to the Loire Valley. What a wonderful recommendation!! We stayed there April 30 and May 1, and really wish we could have extended our stay. The chateau is incredibly lovely, with troglodyte rooms, a cottage, and rooms in the chateau; the grounds are also beautiful and rustic. (We used a roll of film just photographing the grounds and the buildings). We stayed in the cottage; the shower was the best of any we had in France (including a four-star hotel in Paris). The owners were on holiday, but the owners' parents took such loving care of us. If you want a relaxing, laid-back environment, Chateau de Nazelles is the spot for you! Here's a link: http://www.chateau-nazelles.com/
P.S. If you are a pet-lover, you will love Nyoko and Sammy (the two dogs) and the cats. Sammy followed me during my hikes through the grounds; what a great companion!
Peggy
San Francisco, CA USA Tue 05/04/2004
Grenoble
Stopped in Grenoble in transit from Italy to Switzerland.
It is a very pleasant town but the key thing that struck me was how nice everyone was. Hotel staff couldn't be nicer (Hotel Mecure).
I arrived by car but was travelling on by train. At the train station I asked if I could speak English as my French was so poor. The ticket agent was incredibly helpful taking extra time to help get the routing I wanted (to Zurich via Geneva) and explaining the seating and connections in detail.
And staff at other places took my
very poor French is stride making my purchases and interactions painless.
Tony Galiani <email>
Carrboro, NC USA Tue 05/04/2004
Driving to Chateaus & Beaune
My wife, my best friend, and myself had the opportunity to spend 10 days in France during the dates April 9 through April 18.
We rented a car from Kemwel through the internet. Our rental agency was Europcar. At check in, we were required to give our credit card that was used to rent the car. I was then required to leave a 500 euro deposit on that credit card plus the actual rental agreement price. The clerk said this charge was necessary to make sure we brought back the car.
The car we were given was not the car that I ordered but was upgraded to a diesel engine. This was an unexpected good omen. The car was a Peugeot P6 307 standard. I recommend getting a diesel because of the cheaper price for gasoil and the excellent mileage.
This was my first time driving in France, and has been 20 years driving the standard shift car. I had no problems getting out of the airport, and finding my way to A-104 to N-104 to N-20 to Orleans.Getting back to the airport was even easier, just follow the rental car return signs.
I recommend going as far around Paris you can go because of the difficulty of reading the signs on the expressway and the traffic. It seems the road signs in France name the town(s) off that exit but, for the most part, not the route number. Or the route number would be a small green sign somewhere around(100 meters before the exit) and/or attached to the main exit sign. We passed many an exit trying to find a route number, instead of reading our LOCAL Michelin map for the town in the direction we wanted nearest the exit. As we traveled, we became more educated in road signs. All gas is cheaper at grocery stores. I never had a problem(two times) using a credit card for payment. I never paid at the pump. I paid by finishing the pumping of fuel, then drive up to a booth, hand the credit card to the attendant, sign, and go.
Be ready for the roundabouts and keep all eyes out for the sign of the town in the direction you need to go to. Or you will go around again.
Our sleeping arrangements in Orleans were free because of a friend allowed us to stay in his condo. Orleans is a nice, college-type, medium sized city. One major tram from the University to the South through the middle of the city and finishing North of the city. Orleans has a day pass good for all buses and the tram. You can purchase these from machines using only coins or a credit card and can purchase directly from the bus drivers. You must punch your times everytime you get on a bus/tram. I did not experiance any checking the entire time in Orleans. Orleans has a major shopping city district around the Joan of Arc statue which can also be used as a good meeting point when people split up to shop. The attractions are the St. Croix Cathedral, Hotel Groslot and the gardens behind, the indoor market place called Halles Chatelet walking north towards Joan of Arc statue from the George V bridge and angle towards the northeast diagonal road with a parking garage around the corner.
We traveled to Chambord. I recommend arriving as the chateau opens and get the audio guide with two head phones. An item with your name needs to be given as a security deposit, I gave my AAA card. Allow two hour to three hours for the chateau. Pack a lunch, sit in front of Chambord, feed the ducks, and watch the hordes of tour bus people walk into the chateau.
Do the same for Chenonceau but separate audioguides. Have your lunch at the tables to your right when you enter but first purchase a pitchet of the Chateau's wine from the cafeteria. Save some time to walk the village, too. Be at Cheverny before 5PM to watch and hear the dogs being fed.
We stayed two nights in Beaune. There is so much wine, and so little time. I recommend the Ibis or the Mercury Hotels which are an easy walk a block south of the main old center. I highly recommend going to the Marche aux Vins as your first wine tasting and do not buy any wine from them. Then go to Patriarche wine tasting and compare prices, Patriarche will be lower. The best wines are at the end of each of the tastings. I recommend talking to any wine steward who speaks English. If you are an interested patron(carrying more than three or four bottles of wine), the wine steward may take you into a small cave for a taste of two or three reserved wines. My friend and I ended up buying and spliting a case of two reserved wines not part of the regular tasting. Also, as Rick says, discreetly bring in some bread and a bottle of water, you will need it.
I took the Noon minibus tour of the vineyards. It was a good 2 hour driving tour but only tasted four different wines from one wine merchant. My expectation was tasting wines from each region we entered(Pommard,Volnay,etc.)
We dined at the Abbaye de Mazieres and had the 23 euro menu. I recommend buying a bottle of their best wine(red or white), and order some cheese with bread to munch on while waiting for each of your courses. Plan on spending the rest of the evening in the cellar being served in courses along with the other ten to twelve tables.
See Hotel Dieu and the polyptych which is opened up completely in a dark lighted room, and no pictures allowed. I walked the ramparts and took some interesting pictures. And I bought the roasted candied peanuts with a handful of soft/hard candy from the old guy in front of the TI during the morning market, try to bargain with him, he understands more English than he lets on, especially if you know French!
One last recommendation, if you are driving on the toll A-Routes, stop at a rest stop that says it's a scenic one. Please make sure you have packed a lunch and follow the adventure dirt road drive. You will be glad you did!
C.J. Bruno <email>
Spring Hill, Fl USA Mon 05/03/2004
Provence
For a good home base in Provence we recommend L'Ermitage Chambres located near Vaison-la-Romaine and a pleasant walk from the medieval hill top village of Le Crestet. Our room was quiet, rustic and very reasonable. Our host Nick, truely went out of his way to be helpful when we were stranded for a day without a car. Take Rick's advice, the roads are narrow and have little ditches along side with hardly any shoulders. It is easy to end up down in one which is not good fon car radiators!
C. M. Johnson
Belleville, WI USA Sat 05/01/2004
Travels in Burgundy
For those of you considering travels in
Burgundy, we recommend the Hotel des Cymaises in Semur-en Auxois.
Many sightseeing opportunities in this area. (Chateauneuf-en-Auxois, Montreal, Flavigny) The hotel is clean, comfortable, and reasonably priced.
The innkeepers, Madame & Monsieur
Faidide are exceptional hosts with much knowledge about the area. They also speak excellent English. This hotel is listed in Rick's France 2004
Guidebook and their web address is
www.hotelcymaises.com
Jane & Michael Davis <email>
Lebanon, OH USA Wed 04/28/2004
D-Day Anniversary
Hello:
We are the Bed and Breakfast: La Cour Sainte Catherine in Honfleur
Saturday 5 june in Honfleur
Liliane GIAGLIS is organizing a barbeque for American guests and American residents
for the anniversary of D-day. Two veterants will be present.
LA COUR SAINTE CATHERINE
74, rue du Puits
14600 HONFLEUR
tél : 02.31.89.42.40
www.giaglis.com
Liliane GIAGLIS
Honfleur, France Wed 04/28/2004
We spent three nites at the Hotel Lafayette in Nice in March of 2004. We found the hotel very clean, friendly,fairly priced and in a great location. Sandrine is a sweetheart and extremely helpful.
USA Mon 04/26/2004
Chateau Nineyrol chambre d'hotes
I want to tell you all about Anne and Phil at Chateau Nineyrol in the Dordogne valley. We found them through this site, they made us so welcome, it was just like staying with old friends. They spent time with us, telling us the best places to visit, with good company over a great breakfast(freshly sqeezed every day) And what a gorgeous spot, near Sarlat, right between Beynac and La Roque Gageac with the most stunning views. e-mail nineyrol@wanadoo.fr
Tell them we sent you.
Bill and Iris Legon
Australia 04/21/04
Route Du Vin
We wanted to stop at a wine cave along the Route Du Vin. We kept missing the signs and finally decided to just stop in the next town. We stopped in Dambach La-Ville at the J.L. Dirringer cave and it was wonderful. He spoke great English and was very happy to take his time with us (we are a family of 6) and answer our questions. My young adult children made fun of my reliance on Rick's book but by the end of the trip they were all asking "Who's got Rick?"
Kathy
St Charles, IL USA 04/13/04
Delta Airlines Terminal Location @
Please update the air travel portion of the France guidebook regarding the location of the Delta airline terminal in CDG. Delta is located in the E terminal, not C, as indicated in the 2004 guidebook. Since we had flown in to Lyon, we relied on Rick's guidebook to help us get smoothly and efficiently through CDG for our return flight. This misinformation cost us at least an hour that we had planned for breakfast and shopping. Thankfully, we were offered a later flight and all ended well.
USA 04/11/04
Le Vieux Manoir - and good places to stay in Normandy area
Gloria was the rudest person we met on our entire France trip. Although her B&B is beautiful,she treated my family and I like we were little children. First thing upon our arrival she sat us down and lectured us for an hour - she didn't bother asking us if we wanted to relax first after our long car trip - or get to Clos Luce -which was what we had planned to do as soon as we dropped off our suitcases. Needless to say we missed it. The first breakfast she served tea made without teabags. She told me it was made from leaves, so I said ok, then she got right in my face and said "Listen....". Acckkk....I felt like she was a school teacher and I was in trouble. I think I have the tea leaf thing under control - thank you very much - I don't need a lecture - and if I do, I'll ask. We tried staying away all day just so we wouldn't have to listen to her "attitude" - which included telling us which chateaus we wanted to see and which we didn't - never mind I've wanted to see Chambord for 1/2 my life - let me determine if it's worth it or not. And since we were told "it wasn't possible" to see everything we planned in one day - we had to prove a point and see all 4 chateau/castles. We did it. It was not relaxing or fun at all to stay at Le Vieux Manoir.... now there is a Chateau in Vergoncey (15 minutes from Mont St. Michel), Chateau Bouceel, where I'd like to be adopted by the Count because he was so nice and genuine. He made us feel so at home. The house is spectacular and filled with his family history. Truly amazing. We also stayed at Le Mas Normand in Ver-sur-Mer. Wonderful place and wonderful owners. Fabulous fresh breakfast and close to the D-day beaches.
Leslie
Sherwood , OR USA 04/06/04
Hotel des Recollet, Sarlat
I wish I had seen the comments about Hotel des Recollets in Sarlat at this website. The owner was extremely unhelpful and arrogant. He totally ignored me when I arrived at the front desk in his very small lobby, leaving me standing for a while. Later, he refused to answer questions about sightseeing in the town. Also, this was the only hotel in my six-week stay in France that served dry, hard, day-old croissants for breakfast (unheard of in France)! When other guests complained, his response was, "Then what do I do with them (old croissants)?" Also, the room was very small. This was definitely the worst hotel experience I had in France during my six-week stay.
Kay
Hilo, HI USA 03/10/04
Normandy
if anyone is interested in the Normandy area, please email me at jquick99@yahoo.com
Jane <email>
baltimore, md USA 02/29/04
Mont St Michel
Mont St Michel is packed with Tourists during the day but they leave late afternoon which is the best time to climb tthe Abbey. I cannot recomment the Hotel Mouton Blanc--cheap but seedy. We stayed at Hotel Terasses on the first trip and it was worth it to spend more and stay there--had a quiet room on the back overlooking cemetery. We should have followed Rick's advice on not eating at Madame Poulard's omelet place--it was very mediocre and overpriced with arrogant service. The tab came to about $125 and we had better omelets for $6 each at a tiny place in Liseux. However, we did enjoy the Mont and the high tides came twice during our stay.
Susan <email>
Ga USA 02/24/04
Eating in Avignon
Our attempt to eat at D'Ici et d'Ailleurs in Avignon last fall was a disaster. They told us to come back in 45 minutes and when we returned they wouldn't even talk to us. They made room for another counple by bringing a table out, but they wouldn't even say they were sorry or they didn't have room. Of course, by then it was almost 10pm and very hard to find anywhere to go for dinner at all.
Liz Phelps <email>
Pitssburg, CA USA 02/16/04
Chateau de Lignerolles-Extraordinary Hospitality and Superb D-Day Tour!!!
I just returned from a week in France with my husband, two brothers and their spouses. We stayed one night at the beautifully decorated Chateau de Lignerolles, www.chateaudelignerolles.com (right outside of Bayeux) All of us now wish we had stayed longer! We found this hidden beauty from a previous Rick Steve's Graffiti Wall message. Pia and Roel went out of their way to make us feel at home. They even had electric bed warmers under our sheets, very welcoming to our sore muscles that had just done a three day "lighting tour" of Paris! The wonderful breakfast Pia prepared kept us full well into the afternoon. Roel took us on a half-day tour of D-Day sights, he was very knowledgeable, not to mention a lot of fun! I look forward to returning someday soon with my parents! This year is a great year to visit Normandy, June 6th will be the 60th Anniversary of D-Day.
Beth Williams <email>
Atlanta, Georgia USA 02/12/04
SARLAT - Hotel des recolets - AVOID IT
We spent four nights last december at the "hotel des recolets" in Sarlat and we don't recommend it.
The bathrooms were tiny and the boss very rude and unfriendly !!!
georges <email>
Sacramento, CA USA 02/08/04
Vaison la Romaine-Hotel Burrhus
Anyone thinking of visiting Vaison la Romaine and staying at the Hotel Burrhus- beware. I tried to make a reservation there for April (off season) but the rates quoted were much higher than expected.I was told they are not honoring the rates published in Rick's book nor even the rates on their own website. They have had a substantial rate increase and it is no longer the good value stated in Rick's book.
Brian
Pompano Beach, FL USA 01/29/04
Ver sur Mer, Normandy
While on an extended business trip to London, I spent weekends traveling.
I found the most wonderful spot in France, I can't wait to return. I was
in Ver sur Mer. Extremely rich in history and the feeling of being taken
back in time. I stayed at Le Mas Normand B&B, formerly a German-occupied
farmhouse. The hosts were the greatest. Fresh pastries each morning with
homemade jams and jellies. Ver sur Mer is located at Gold Beach and Avenue
6 Juin runs right through the town. I left this tiny town feeling like I
had left all of the stresses of my life right there on the beach next to
the German bunker. You can easily get to Arromanches, which I highly recommend,
Courseilles, another day trip I loved, and Omaha Beach. Bring a carton of
tissues, there are many museums detailing D-Day. But, as for Le Mas Normand
and Ver sur Mer, life is simple and lovely there. Gilles is a world class
chef and Madame is an organic farmer. I would retire to this part of the
world.
Tammy-Joy <email>
Boston, MA USA 01/11/04
Paris and Provence
Hotel Castex in Paris was great. Nothing bad to say about the whole city
- we had a wonderful time. We did not "click" with Arles - too many hooligans
running around. We would stay in a smaller town next time. We enjoyed virtually
all of the Provence towns - Les Baux, Sault, St. Remy, etc. Cassis was a
beautiful stopover. Hotel Cassitel had a nice pool with view but otherwise
was very basic for price. Room smelled of smoke. Rick's books don't cover
much on the Alps but we loved them - especially enjoyed the town of Valloire
- from which we watched the Tour de France. Great hiking. During the summer,
the chalets are very reasonable (cheap) lodging.
ABB
Arlington, VA USA 01/05/04