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Food Lovers' France: 2005

Snails... horse meat... tongue... goose liver paté... stinky cheese.... Even people who like American fast food might enjoy Europe's top cuisine. Share your best treats in France.

NORMANDY
Great hotel and restaurant in the Normandy area. Near Bayeux, Arromanches and Caen. Look for Hostellerie St Martin in the small village of Creully. Absolutely wonderful restaurant and moderately priced. If you stay at their hotel, a small grocery store and a pharmacy are nearby. Check them out at: www.hostelleriesaintmartin.com. I highly recommend them!
Scott
Olympia, WA USA Mon 12/26/2005

Crepes on Champs de Elysées
My husband and I just visited the City of LIghts and discovered Nutella Crepes--Yummy!! If you haven't discovered Nutella, its a must have on a hot freshly made crepe. The Delis Cafe on Champs de Elysées (just west of the Sephora store) makes crepes fresh and lathers on a generous helping of this sweet condiment. At 3.50 Euros its the perfect treat to keep you warm during the Winter Season. We ate one each day savoring the treat as knowing they're not available in the US.
Elaine S
Orlando, FL USA Mon 12/12/2005

Open Markets
We stayed in Cohors by the Lot River at the Haut Baran bed & breakfast and we absolutely recommend it. Willam is fluent in French and he wife Roselee (an American) is an excellent cook and both are accomplish hosts.

There is great sight seeing in the area but my true delight was the market and cheese stores in Touluse. We spent a night there before going on to Barcelona and walked around that area to kill time. The market was better than the market at the Las Ramus in Barcelona.
Edward Lear
Cincinnati, , OH USA Tue 11/29/2005

Spices & Tea in Paris?
I’m hoping to find curry powder and Ethiopian tea among others, while in Paris. Are there stores or particular areas of town that might sell these things? I’m thinking of starting in Marais. Are the open air markets (Marche de Bastille & Marche de la place d’Aligre) seasonal, or do they run through December?
Constance <email>
Lansing, MI USA Sun 11/20/2005

Buddha Bar!
You must check out the Buddha Bar in Paris! There is a huge Buddha in the restaurant and they have a great soundtrack you can purchase! Plus other souvenirs, but the atmosphere and ambiance is great!
Lee-Lee
Houston, TX USA Sat 11/19/2005

Provence- La Bistro du Paradou in the little town of Paradou (south of Avignon) was great. We had read about the restaurant in the book "A Year in Provence" by Peter Maile (? sp). There is a fixed menu, so you eat what is prepared for that day. The food was fresh, well prepared and very delicous. We had two bottles of wine (four people) and it was included in the fixed price of the meal. If you are in Provence, be sure to make a reservation in advance for La Bistro du Paradou. We also recommend the book mentioned above for an entertaining story of a couple from England buying and fixing up an old house in Provence and their travails in getting things done in a very laisse faire environment.
USA Thu 11/17/2005

Le Fleuray in the Chateau area of France
We had a wonderful experience staying at Le Fleuray hotel (http://www.lefleurayhotel.com/) in the chateau area near Amboise. The hotel and restaurant is owned by the Newington family (English), who are very friendly, competent, hard working and helpful. The food was first class. Interesting and different from anything we had anywhere else in France. The rooms were very spacious and comfortable. It is in the country and has a wonderful, peaceful ambience. We heartily recommend Le Fleuray for the accomodations and the delicious food and wine. An excellent value.
Steve <email>
Spring, TX USA Sun 11/06/2005

Au Gros Caillou
Not far from rue Cler, on rue de Grenelle close to Champs de Mars, we found a fun, free-flowing bistro called Au Gros Caillou. Owner CJ spent several years in the US (Boston, San Diego) and has returned to France to fulfill his dream of owing a Paris restaurant. CJ is particularly proud of his menu and it shows - try the 7 hour lamb shank, the T-bone for two or parmesan chicken. He even offers the quintessential american Cheeseburger, although with a French flare. The atmosphere is vibrant, the wine and liqueur selection superb and yet the prices still bistro-like reasonable. Au Gros Caillou is as good or better than other bistros in the area, including those recommended elsewhere on this site. Closed Sunday and Monday, but well worth the visit the rest of the week. Prix fixe for lunch, a la carte in the evening. Just around the corner is Hotel de la Paix, a good alternative to rue Cler hotels and a lot quieter than market-facing rooms.
LT
St.Catharines, ON Canada Sat 10/29/2005

Caves Madeleine, Beaune
My favorite meal we had in France was in Beaune. Caves Madeleine was small and fantastic! There are a few tables for a more private setting, but we found the real fun was sitting at the community table. The menu is on a chalk board in the back. Feel free to get up and take a closer look. We met a super nice couple from Canada whose French was great compared to our non existent version! We learned the cheaper 12 euro menu was more for the locals to try cuisine from other areas (ex. ravioli from Italy). Through great translation, we learned the 22euro menu were the specialties. My husband and I both had escargot to start and then the Beef Bourgonion (sp?). If you go to Beaune, make a reservation, or get there early! This place is listed in Rick's book, but it's still packed!
Stacy <email>
Winston-Salem, NC USA Fri 10/28/2005

Special treat in Paris
For a special treat, and it is expensive, afternoon tea at the Ritz is fabulous. Just after being seated at a window with a beautiful view it started snowing. It was a memorable afternoon. Just a reminder though, you do have to dress appropriately. We made our reservations by email before we left home and planned it for the afternoon we arrived. If you go, enjoy!
USA Fri 10/28/2005

Reasonable Price Breakfast
If you want to eat breakfast for less than 5 Euros each, head to Rue Cler. Cafe du Marche has a good 1.50 Euro "Cafe Creme" and the bakery across the street has wonderful croissants, pain au chocolate, etc. If you don't mind eating your pastry while walking you will appreciate a cheap breakfast after a few days in Paris, where its sometimes hard to find a coffee for less than 6 Euros!
Rosemary
Norwood, MA USA Wed 10/26/2005

food
i wouldnt even try this some people might try and actually like but i dont think so th an sound so nasty
bianca miller
las vegas, nv USA Mon 10/17/2005

La Samaritaine
According to this large sign on the exterior: "La Samaritaine Magasin Fermé Pour Travaux De Sécurité"

There was not date for reopening posted but by chance on our return flight to SF we were seated with a gentleman who told us that the reason they closed it was because the ceiling etc. was falling and injuring people, and that it is being restored and will reopen.
Liane <email>
SF Bay Area, CA USA Fri 10/14/2005

Amboise dinner
Hotel Le Blason has a restaurant right behind it in Amboise. I received a small plate of 3 amuses bouches, and then a second serving of amuses bouches before my meal arrived. They ask that the last guests arrive no later than 9pm or so if reservations aren't made. An appertif, 3 course prix fixe good menu (two less expensive prix fixe options avail.) cafe and demi-bouteille of wine came to roughly $60. Highly recommend this place. Was in Paris 6 days and Amboise one, and this was my best meal by far.
Janice Nason
Chicago, IL USA Mon 10/10/2005

Sea Food in Rue Cler Area of Paris
Just returned from 8 days in Paris. Stayed in the Rue Cler area. Had eaten at the recommended Varanque before and found it good. This time was very disappointed. Food was tasteless and poorly prepared. Think Phillipe is riding his "Rick Steves Reputation". Would not recommend. Did find a great sea food spot on the corner at the Ecole Militaire Metro stop at 3, place de l'Ecole Militaire. Brasserie de l'Ecole Militaire. Food was exceptional, service was excellent and the prices were very reasonable. Had two dinners there and both were outstanding. Highly recommend.
Tom
GA USA Fri 10/07/2005

Eating in Arles
Found I great restaurant in Arles, just off Forum Square, as we could not get into both of Rick's nearby recommendations.The Restaurant "La Grignotte" on Rue Favorin is run by a husband and wife team that serves great local Provencal cuisine at very reasonable prices. And, best yet! it is "non- smoking" .. unheard of in France.
John Miroslavich <email>
Oakville, Ontario Canada Fri 10/07/2005

Just back from a week in Paris
6 nights, 4 great dinners at 3 bistros well worth your consideration:

La Grille, 80, faubourg Poissoniere (10e, Mo Poissoniere) - after reading raving comments in 2 Paris Bistro books and Zagat, I had to try the Turbot in Beurre Blanc and was not disappointed. Although twice the price of all other plats (64 euro for 2), the Turbot in Beurre Blanc may indeed be the best seafood dish I have ever had. The other dishes were also wonderful, our waiter very friendly, and owner Madame Cullerre as charming as ever, even with no English. I repeat - you must try the Turbot!

Va et Vient, 8 rue des Bastignoles (NOT Boulevard!), 17e, Mo Rome. Recommended by our hotel, we went twice since it was so good. They had a degustation menu at 30 euros that included a carafe of excellent vin du mois, cafe, the works. The highlight of this place is the entree of escargots in a chanterelle cream sauce served en cocotte - incredibly rich and you will soak up every last drop of sauce with your ample bread. On Fri/Sat they also serve sweetbreads with a morel mushroon cream sauce over tagliatelle that was also fabulous. Great foie gras and duck confit as well. Finally, the creme brulee was the best I have had - about 8" across but very thin, with a wonderful crispy crust on top - tres magnifique!

Bistro L'Affiche, 48 rue de Moscou (8e, Mo Rome). A bit of a splurge since they do not offer a "Formula" for dinner, but well worth the cost (ours came to 112 euros for 2, with a nice Cotes du Rhone). The homemade foie gras terrine with candied onions, figs and apricots did not need the included glass of sauternes, but was still incredible. The 2 different sweetbread casseroles (one with kidneys) were swimming in a very rich brown sauce with bacon and small potatoes. And lastly, the baba au rhum was the biggest and best example of the classic I have ever seen - a huge hunk of sugar soaked cake that our waitress then poured rum all over, with the side bowl of thick Chantilly, was simply awesome.

Our other 2 dinners were only very good!

Bon appetit!
Dale <email>
Rancho Mirage, CA USA Tue 10/04/2005

Correction-Wine and Cheese tasting in Paris
Sorry. The correct web address is www.o-chateau.com . OH and he speaks great English too!
Jessica <email>
New York, NY USA Sat 10/01/2005

Wine and Cheese Tasting in Paris
In the new hip 11er there is o chateau (www.ochateau.com). You spend the afternoon in Olivier (professional sommelier whose family owns a winery in Boujelais) loft learning about differnt french wines and cheeses. The experience and very laid back. No snop wine people here. It's a lovely afternoon and a great introduction to learning about French wines and cheeses.
Jessica <email>
New York, NY USA Sat 10/01/2005

Eating in Paris
My wife and I have visited Paris so many times, and eating there as everyone knows, is the real reason to go. We have enjoyed a delightful restaurant, many time, called Cote' Seine, located next to the Seine on the quai des Grands Augustins, but recently trying to contact them,prior to planning another trip, I've gotten no response. Does anyone out there have any knowledge of what is happening if anything???
Gary Russell <email>
Hoschton, Georgia USA Fri 09/30/2005

La Fontaine de Mars is EXCELLENT
Pricey food, but the food (duck confit) was excellent. Service was excellent, and the waiters were very kind and patient, and weren't condescending when they spoke English. I left them a FAT tip for treating us so well. Highly recommended - but bring $$$ - it's not cheap. Our bill came out to be about $70 (before tip), and that included dinner, a glass of wine, sparking water, and creme brulee (which is killer).
Greg
Bay Area, CA USA Thu 09/29/2005

Great Reastaurant in Arles
Le Cilantro 31 rue porte de Laure email: infocilantro@aol.com tel: 04.90.18.25.05 Recommended to us by the staff at Hotel Calendal for dinner (just a block away). The meal we had was better than the one we had two nights earlier in Paris at Guy Savoy's Les Bookinistes. The chef is a local who returned last year to the family home in Arles to open Les Cilantro. Meal, wine and service was outstanding. Chef spent time at each table talking with customers (beware he is a Red Soxs fan after working a couple of years in New England). Hands down the best meal we had in Provence this September.
Allan
Calgary, Alberta Canada Mon 09/26/2005

Do Not Go Here For a Beer
The Great Canadian

This place seems to be an accepting place for local North American's to revert back to English and meet hometown folks. Well it is. At first. But the owner is a giant jerk. Turns out he's a seperatist from Montreal and hates anyone from English speaking Canada and the US. You only find this out once he's had a few. He puts on a lie when he's sober. He picked on me once he had a few pints in him, so I asked him if he wanted to settle it outside, and he wouldn't. He was afraid to leave the bar, but felt tough when surrounded by his little buddies. So I told him to kick me out unless he wanted to be a real man about it.

In any event, he gives Canadian's a bad name, and I apologise for anyone who runs into him by mistake. Too bad he took the name Great Canadian...because he sure isn't one.

Cheers
Jordan
Toronto, ON Canada Sun 09/25/2005

Eatting in the 6th e`me
We just got back from Paris and would recommed the following resturnats, most of which are recommmended in Zagat: Timbre, Chez Marcel and Saveurs Claude. These were small, intimate resturants in the Montparnasse area near Vavin, where Montparnasse and Raspail intersect. We stayed at the Hotel Le Sainte-Beuve. They couldn't have been more helpful.
Joe <email>
San Ramon, CA USA Tue 09/20/2005

restaurants in Paris
Our favorite place in Paris was on the Rue Cler next door to the Hotel Leveque, a tiny cafe called Le Diplomat. We arrived in Paris late in the morning, exhausted and hungry. We tried Cafe du Marche, but it was full. We wound up at the Diplomat and were greeted by the owner and his wife, who served us a delicious steak topped by goat cheese, frites and a small salad (le plat du jour). Our French was very rusty that first day but they did their best to be warm, welcoming and make us feel at home in Paris. How much better can it get?
Scout Mitchell
Bellingham, WA USA Wed 08/31/2005

Avignon
I just tried a couple of Ricks suggestions in Avignon... Epicere and "From here and elsewhere". Epicere was good, but quite expensive (28€ for one person with just "loh in carrafe"). The other was very mediocre... skimpy ammount of pistou (pesto) and rather bland scallops. I had better luck with two popular looking restaurants in the Horologue that Rick belittled... the Forum and a nearby restaurant that had a name that sort of looked like it might have Vienna in it. I got the plat du jour from both (tagiatelle au pistou and osso bocu). Both provided better food, much cheaper prices (less than 10€ for a plat du jour that was enough to be a meal by itself), and much better service. Yes they see plenty of tourists being neaar the Horologue, but that doesnt mean the food is bad. I dont mind paying for good food, but I do mind paying extra for really slow service (must be only one or two meals per table per night at Ricks suggestions).
Eric
Berkeley, CA USA Fri 08/26/2005

Restaurants in Paris
People eat late on the continent. If you eat between 6-7.30pm there is not need to book unless you are going to a really popular restaurant. Do not tie yourself down with bookings. Some of the best restaurants can be found by looking around the area and getting a feel for the most popular places.
Miss B Carr <email>
London, UK Wed 08/24/2005

Solo eating in St Germain de Pres, Paris
Lynn, I recommend Au Beaujolais Restaurant in the 6th arr. The address is 9 rue Gregoire de Tours, 75006 Paris. I stumbled upon this resturant when I travelled solo to Paris once. You can eat in peace before 8pm and before the dinner crowds come. It is resonably priced for Paris. I recommend: Starters - Goats cheese salad, French onion soup or duck liver pate Main Courses are all exceptionally good though I always end up getting the lamb. Desserts - Do not miss the profiterols which are stuffed with ice cream and come served with hot chocolate sauce.

You cannot fault Pain Quoitidien for large filling breakfasts that can keep you going until early dinner time.
Miss B Carr <email>
London, London UK Wed 08/24/2005

Reservations, etc. for meals in Paris
Amy - Thanks for the tips. I've had a chance today to look over guide books including Rick's, and they say pretty much the same thing, but it's good to hear it from someone who's just been there.
Lynn
NJ, NJ USA Sat 08/13/2005

Reservations?
Hi Lynn - we just returned from France and Paris. Our experience was that if you REALLY have your heart set on eating in a particular restaurant, make a reservation. However, most of the time we were able to eat in small restaurants and brasseries without making a reservation as long as we arrived between 7:45 and 8:00 pm. Sometimes we'd get an eyeroll, but we usually got a table. As far as paying by credit card - checking the door or the posted menu to see if they honor credit cards worked for us.
Amy
Westford, MA USA Sat 08/13/2005

More questions about eating in Paris
Follow-up questions to my previous posting. Looking over Rick's Paris guidebook, I got some excellent suggestions. Regarding cafe's, takeouts, brasseries - do I need a reservation (or only in fine restaurants) and secondly, will a cafe take a credit card or just cash? Thanks everyone.
Lynn
NJ, NJ USA Fri 08/12/2005

Recommendation for dining solo
Recommendation needed for dining alone in Paris. Going in the Fall. I want to eat well in a pleasant environment, yet feel comfortable about eating alone. Does not have to be expensive.
Lynn
NJ, NJ USA Fri 08/12/2005

La Calibressan in Semur-en-Auxois
If you're going to be in Burgundy, make time (and reservations) to be in Semur-en-Auxois and eat at La Calibressan. The owner and host, Jill, is Californian and is extremely gracious and friendly. The ambience in the small 10 table dining room is serene, romantic, and still a little quirky. And the food is UNBELIEVABLE! The bouef Bourgogne is absolutely mouth-watering. The canard with mango chutney is surprising and tender.

And the desserts were perfect. A beautiful creme brulee with a hint of kiwi. And something they call Delice Santa Ynez, a white chocolate mousse with on a sweet fig crust.

We spent about 65 euros for the two of us, a splurge for us, but well worth it. We had plenty of so-so meals in france for 40 euros, and I wish we ate here every day.

A dreamy way to spend an evening in a perfect Burgundy town. Thanks for the top-notch recommendation, Rick!
Mark
Los Angeles, CA USA Tue 08/02/2005

Ma Bourgogne
Rick's recommendation for Ma Bourgogne was right on the money. (BTW, take cash, they don't take credit!) Fantastic meal...smoked duck/duck liver salad was fantastic. Even if the waiter doesn't smile much, he's very friendly. After our meal he took us to meet the boss and her dog. Can't wait to eat there again on our next trip.
Chip Goodhart <email>
Harrisburg, PA USA Mon 08/01/2005

Best Falafel in Paris
You will never taste falafel as good as the ones served at L'Aus du Fallafel on Rue 34 rue des Rosiers which is in the Marais. Remember this is the Jewish qurter of Paris when the Marais feels like a ghost town during Sabbath. They do take away's but if you do decide to sit down, please be aware that it is a very tight fit as its typical in most Parisian eating places but then it adds to the quaintness of Paris. Order your fallafel "special" and it comes with sauteed aubergine and a huge dollop of humus
B Carr <email>
London, UK Tue 07/26/2005

Skip breakfast in Paris Hotels
Best cheap breakfast - Skip the overpriced croissant and coffee in the hotel and go to Pain Quotidien, there are various chains throught out Paris and one is located at 33 Rue Vivienne. get the mixed basket of breads and pastries which should keep you going until an early dinner
B Carr <email>
London, UK Tue 07/26/2005

Samaritain is Closed!
We were in Paris in mid-June and were looking forward to resting our weary and hungry selves at the Samaritain cafeteria, only to find it was closed! Seemingly permanently! The sign said something about security reasons......
Nancy <email>
Kirkland, wa USA Sat 07/23/2005

Bofinger in Paris
I have to heartily recommend Bofinger. It is a very glamorous place filled with posh-looking people, Euro-trash, locals, tourists and everything in between. The most beautiful and coveted spot to sit is under the stained-glass dome. Everything seems very big and over the top. It was a pleasing sight after trekking about like a Sherpa trying to get to the restaurant. (We left on time but one of our metro connections was shut down early for the evening to attend to repairs so we had to take a round-about way to get to the restaurant) They immediately sat us despite our tardiness and because we were late we had to sit in the smoking section. It wasn't really much of a punishment. We perused the menu. One of the reasons I wanted to come here was the oysters! We had a very flirty waiter who when asked if he spoke English said "No, Only American." He jokingly wouldn't speak to my Fiancé who is English and would answer questions when they came from me. He was extremely flirtatious with anything female and I noticed he spoke Italian, Spanish, English (pardon. American) and French with the grace and ease like a good dancer who switches from the tango to Samba with two subtle steps. He encouraged us to have a platter of oysters that featured four different kinds of oysters from a few different places. It was such a buffet. Some were immense and took a bit of breath to eat and others were petite and delicate. With just a bit of lemon and lots of enthusiasm they were soon gone. Along with our sexy oysters we had a bottle of champagne. I have found there is nothing finer then a dozen oysters and a bottle of champagne with my Fiancé. The waiter applauded us on our taste and picking the best oysters of the bunch and took the empty platter away. We drank more champagne, giggled a lot and enjoyed the decadence of a meal such as that; late in the evening on a Thursday. Our main course arrived with trumpets (so I made that up) and it was duck. Beautiful, just a touch of pink and laid before the diner like a prize. The room was so noisy with happy slightly drunk people making their way through the beautiful dinners of grilled meat, shellfish and pretty desserts that looked as if they would float away. We felt so filled with dinner by the end. For dessert? A beautiful chocolate mousse that my fiancé helped me eat. When we started to leave the waiter bowed deeply, kissed my hand and bid us farewell. Do go here with people you genuinely like. It will be a party. If you want to sit underneath the dome it is important to make reservations.

Brasserie Bofinger 5-7 rue de la Bastille ph# 01-42-72-87-82 Metro:Bastille
Genevieve <email>
Seattle, USA Thu 07/21/2005

restaurant and wine
We found a superb restaurant in Le Chassagne, Burgundy. French Nouveau cuisine with a superb presentation. The Restaurant Le Chassagne could be in New York or Paris. Also, the Domaine Amiot Guy et Fils had some excellent wines. I would recommend these to anyone. Bon Apetite.
Adrienne Boutwell
Randleman, NC USA Sat 07/16/2005

Great restaurant in Nice
We just returned from France, and the best meal we ate was in Nice at the Restaurant Aphrodite. It's at 10 Blvd. Dubouchage, Tel. 0493856353. It has a beautiful romantic outdoor courtyard with torchlight, and exceptional food (what I'd call "Modern French") at very reasonable prices. The fixed price lunch is about 20E, dinner about 30E. The waiter recommended an exceptionally good wine which was under 15E. Waiter spoke excellent English and was so patient that he would have given us a detailed description (with ingredients) of EVERY item on the menu. This place is a real find in Nice.
Nancy
San Francisco, CA USA Thu 07/14/2005

restaurants 5th e
Please write in your favorite budget priced restaurants in the 5th e, around place maubert, the pantheon, rue mouffetard, blvd st michel, or le ile st louis. i thank you. france thanks you. m s
m s
san rafael, ca USA Tue 07/12/2005

italian in the rue cler
Iam not crazy about french food in paris although i love the food in the south. I found great casual restaurant for italian and pizza to stay or go in the rue cler neighborhood called pizza la gourmandise on 28 rue augereau. My husband and I showed up at 11pm when they closed and they served us anyway. Very nice people run this restaurant we ordered pizza the next day and had a pinic at the eiffel tower
jami <email>
santa rosa , ca USA Thu 07/07/2005

Leo le Lion
We ate at Leo le Lion our last night in Paris. Sorry we didn't go sooner. The food and service were fabulous. It is a restaurant favored by locals and we were the only "tourists" there. A little more expensive than some of Rick's picks but well worth it.
USA Thu 07/07/2005

Best Restaurant
Just returned from Paris. The best dinner we had was in the Rue Cler area -a restaurant called Leo Le Lion (it's in Rick's Paris Guidebook). The stuffed salmon was unbelievable!
Steve <email>
Sacramento, CA USA Tue 07/05/2005

B. Bofinger
Doug, do you have the Brasserie Bonfiger web site? In doing a key word search, I couldn't find it. Thanks.
Agnes B.
Cleveland, OH USA Thu 06/30/2005

Terrific restaurant in Nice
In Nice we ate the best meal of our entire month-long trip to France, and it was a great value. The restaurant was Aphrodite at 10 Blvd. Dubouchage. It has a beautiful, romantic outdoor patio with shrub "walls" to hide it from the street. The food was exceptional, what I'd call "modern French", beautifully presented and with excellent friendly service by an English-speaking waiter who was willing to describe EVERY item on the menu very patiently. There is a fixed price menu for about 20 Euros at lunch and about 30 for dinner. The recommended wine was exceptionally good and about 15 E for the bottle. A meal of this quality in a comparable restaurant in San Francisco would have easily cost twice as much. This place is a real find which was recommended to us by a friend who owns another Nice restaurant--otherwise we'd never have known about it and still had trouble finding it because our hotel insisted it was not in the phone book. Website is at www.restaurant-aphrodite.com
Nancy K
San Francisco, CA USA Wed 06/29/2005

Bofinger discount, Baracane recommendation
Brasserie Bofinger was offering a 15% discount off the entire check (wines included) IF you made a reservation by internet! Be sure to bring a copy of the offer from the French page as well as the reservation confirmation.

Just around the corner from Bofingers is the excellent bistro "Baracane" at 38 rue des Tournelles 01 42 71 43 33. English is well spoken and the staff is very helpful. Moderately priced. Reservations desirable unless you want to eat early. Check the prix fixe menu.
Doug Bly
USA Tue 06/28/2005

Delicious American Surprise in the Latin Quarter
My family spent a couple of weeks in europe at the beginning of June. After traveling about ten days we were all beginning to miss our American cuisine. While walking not far from our hotel in the French Quarter of Paris we stumbled upon an American style diner called 'Breakfast in America'. We enjoyed BLT's, a delicious cheeseburger basket with fries and a made to order breakfast - pancakes, eggs, toast and bacon - at about 10pm - Their sodas came with a full glass of ice. They even had Dr. Pepper! For dessert, we had root beer floats. It was just what the Dr. ordered to keep us going until the end of the trip. It cost a little more than your average crepe/hot dog lunch on the street (about $60 for all four of us) but well worth it!
Spey <email>
East Moline, IL USA Fri 06/24/2005

Agnes
We visited Agnes' restaurant on the second night of our honeymoon in Paris (Nov. 2004). Granted, we did not yet know that it is imperative to call-ahead at many of the restaurants listed in Rick Steves' book, but Agnes was exceedingly rude to us when we came in and asked (in French) to be seated. She all but cursed at us, gesturing to the packed little restaurant, and then turned her back. In retrospect I understood her frustration, but we were shocked at the time. We walked a bit more and found Le Petite Troquet where Dominique invited us warmly and totally soothed our ruffled feathers. Word to the wise: Plan where you want to eat, make a reservation, don't get offended.
Nadia <email>
Austin, TX USA Mon 06/20/2005

Good restaurant in Paris
Susan, We had dinner at the Restaurant Zo in Paris last March, it was very nice. A friend who lives in the neighborhood took us to it. Across the street was a Chinese restaurant he recommended highly but we didn't get a chance to dine there. It is on 13, rue Montalivet. We ate in the bar but there was a regular dining area also.
Doris <email>
WA USA Sun 06/19/2005

birthday lunch
I am traveling to paris with my daughter. She will be celebrating her 25th birthday on Bastille Day. Can anyone suggest a great restaurant for lunch or dinner - we are staying in the louvre area.
susan
Long Beach, ny USA Sun 06/12/2005

Where is the Health Department???
It is inappropriate to apply our standards to another country. The toilet you describe is all over the place in Europe. Is it what we are used to? Decidedly not. Does that make it intrinsically wrong? No
Steve
Richmond, VA USA Fri 06/10/2005

Restaurants
On the left bank of Paris we decided to try the 150 year old restaurant Polidor. I needed to use the rest room and that about ruined the evening! The toilet was a hole in the floor behind a filthy screen door. Where is the health department? The plat du jour was either beef or chicken. The house wine special was a 2003 Pinot Noir that was very good and also sold at Nicholas Wine Shop.The place was packed but we will not be going back. On the right bank after touring the Carnavalet Museum L'as du Falafel was a very good lunch spot to eat on the run at the carryout window.We saw only one Starbucks on the left bank. Wish there were more.
Anderson
Portland, OR USA Tue 06/07/2005

Cafe de la Riviere in Beynac
We recently enjoyed wonderful meals at Cafe de la Riviere in Beynac, France. It was listed in Rick's book and was a great choice for an enjoyable evening ( 3 evenings in our case). The owner is welcoming and entertaining and the food scrumptious. You can't beat the view over the Dordogne. Though we were not staying in the rooms which are above the restaurant I would certainly consider them for our next visit.
pat
pa USA Sat 06/04/2005

Restaurant Advice
Parisiens are serious about their restaurants. Many visitors ask personnel in their hotel for recommendation. The response can be expected to be thoughtful and accurate. I would think they would be happy to make a reservation for non-French-speaking guests.
USA Fri 06/03/2005

Use the experts for this -- Michelin
Paris is one of the best food cities in the world. You are foolish if you rely on an American general travel guidebook to find good restaurants here. Look at the French Michelin guide or website, they will direct you to the best restaurants. The Michelin reviewers eat in these places constantly and Paris is their home turf. Many Michelin listed restaurants are expensive, but they also list bargains (shown by a little picture of a smiling chef). In my extensive experience all Michelin listed restaurants in France are at least very good Any restaurant with one or more Michelin stars is pretty much guaranteed to be extraordinary. Three star restaurants are spectacular but generally unaffordable. The one downside is that you are not guaranteed that the place will be casual and "friendly" in the American sense -- the more expensive places may be quite formal -- but you will get excellent service.
Marc <email>
Cleveland, OH USA Sun 05/22/2005

Food in France
We ate at a wonderful Chinese place on Rue Cler. You chose your food, and then took it outside. Delicious.
Gail <email>
Houston, TX USA Fri 05/20/2005

Marmites D'Agnes--wonderful!
My new husband and I just returned from a trip to Paris. On Sunday evening, we visited the Eiffel Tower, and were looking for a restaurant in the area. It was about 9:30 pm, and most of the restaurants were closed, or were no longer accepting diners. We happened upon Marmites D'Agnes completely by accident, and were waved in by the diners inside, who were clearly having a great time. We had no idea whe was listed in Rick's book, which we had in my bag at the time!

What a wonderful experience! Agnes is delightful, as were the other diners and, of course, her dog Gypsy.

Despite the late hour, Agnes pulled out all the stops. We had chose from among the set menu items: delicious green salads with a dressing that I will never be able to duplicate (to my great dismay), steak with roquefort sauce that my husband went into a trance over, farm-roasted sage chicken, which was the juiciest I have ever had, and for dessert, creme caramel and warm tart tatin with ice cream. And, of course, French wine. We had not been fed so well during our entire stay in Paris.

The restaurant is very intimate, and Mme. Agnes' company was a treat. She was welcoming, and Rick's review was on target--we never felt rushed and we stayed far longer than we anticipated, talking with one another.

Afterwards, we walked back towards the Eiffel Tower again and arrived just in time to see the lights sparkle on all over the tower. What a delightful evening.
Lisa Notes <email>
Baltimore, MD USA Tue 05/17/2005

Favourites
Loved Paris especially the food. Research before we went and all were fabulous. Le Grizzli, Marias - roast chicken, rack of lamb, duck, potatoes, mmmm, great dark little bistro, went 2x, prices goodL'Epi Dupin - left bank, more eclectic, packed and fantasticAlcazar- left bank, more expensive hip place, fantastic food!
Kathy
Florida, USA Mon 05/02/2005

great restos in Latin Quarter
After a year living in Paris, my wife and I agree that the best place for classic french fare in the Latin Quarter might be Les Fontaines, a cafe on the street that connects the Jardin du Luxembourg with the Pantheon (I think it is rue Pantheon, but I'm not sure, it has been a few years!). But bring a good appetite, the portions are larger than the typical paris meal and the waiters want to see a clean plate.
Mark Sincell <email>
Houston, TX USA Tue 04/26/2005

My favorite Paris restaurants
Hi. Just found this page. It looks like a virtual goldmine.

I go to Paris to eat. Here are all my favorite Paris restaurants. I have eaten at least once at all of them. (you can paste this link below into you browser if you like).http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/48d21/18308/2/or goto davequ's page at vt / virtual tourist.Thanks to all on this page for sharing. I'm going to try these also.Merci beaucoup, and bon appetite!!!

ps also please let me know what you think about them if you try them, or if anything has changed. Any discussion about food in Paris is a good discussion. Thanks!!!
Dave the Gourmand <email>
Daves_not_here!, CO USA Fri 04/22/2005

Restaurant de la Cordonnerie
Genevieve - is this restaurant located in the first at 20 rue St. Roch?
Jodie
Seattle, WA USA Fri 04/22/2005

Bad evening Aux Marmites d'Agn?s
We were disappointed with an evening at Chez Agn?s (Paris 7th, near L'Ecole Militaire and Eiffel Tower). We found her very hostile to children and this created an unpleasant atmosphere. Also, her garnishes of main course is not great - always rice. I think there are better options in this part of town.
Fred Demillio <email>
Fri 04/22/2005

Paris 2001 - Le Paradis
Hi all,I'm looking for divine restaurants - with escargot - in the Latin quarter for a trip in August. Names and addresses, if your reading this and have them. Anyway, I've been meaning to herald one restaurant for quite some time. I traveled alone and stayed in the Montparnasse area in Sept. 2001. I found a lovely little place on my four day trip, and ended up going there 9 out of 13 days because I was waylaid by the attacks on Sept. 11th. A little place called Le Paradis was a comfort and a friend during those eight exrta days. I had just about everything on the menu - lamb, lasagna, veal, profiteroles, and lots of escargot. They served me a lovely wine? with apples cut up in it on several occasions. After dessert - the ice cream is to die for - you had a choice of coffee or a sweet cassis. Mmmm. I have no idea if it is still open, but I hope it is, because I plan to be welcomed back into its warm atmosphere in August. It's on Rue Du Maine, off Ave Du Maine. Just head down past the Gare Montparnasse and make a left on to Rue Du Maine. It should still be the 2nd restaurant on the right side. In 2001, I didn't pay any more than 79 FF - 11 US dollars at the time, and tipped them well because the food was so inexpensive and wonderful. It's a little crowded at times, but homey, and there are English menus. Just wanted to share. Vive la France!
Sandi <email>
Bridgeton, NJ USA Fri 04/22/2005

Eating well in Paris
One lovely evening in Paris we went to another itsy-bitsy restaurant that still makes me smile when I recall it because of the kindness of the people who ran the place. La Cordonnerie (Chez Ivette & Claude) is one of those places that has been around for thirty-some years and will survive any sort of trend and will continue to please people because of the almost heart-breaking sweetness of Hugo and Valerie. The restaurant was originally started by Claude and Yvette and then was taken over by their son Hugo who makes everything and I mean everything you eat. (right down to the sorbet) His wife Valerie serves the people in the evening while Hugo's mother Yvette serves people at lunch. These people were incredibly patient with us. We hardly speak French, and Valerie hardly speaks English but Hugo came from his kitchen and translated a few things for us that we didn't quite understand and said if we needed any further help that Valerie couldn't handle, he would come out to help us further. Oh the generosity of these people translates to the food which was exquisite.

They had many wonderful offerings but I took a look at their specials. I really encourage people to try specials in good restaurants. (and by good I don't always mean posh) When a menu doesn't change too often a chef gets pretty bored making the same thing over and over again and the specials board presents a place for a chef to really show off their art. Sometimes it may cost a little more but you are paying for someone's skill and talent. That evening I began with a soup. It was a pumpkin soup (pureed) with salty bits of bacon sprinkled across. This is a superb dish for the Fall and it was so flavorful. It had the tender subtle sweet flavor of pumpkin, butter, good proper chicken stock and then the perfect addition of the salty hot bacon. One could easily just eat the soup and some bread all evening. My fiance decided to have the fois gras that evening. (we often took turns ordering fois gras in restaurants because it is one of our favorite things to eat) This time it was fried with a bit of balsamic vinegar and it tasted divine. One was seduced by the warm smooth flavor of the fois gras and then receive a surprise of the au jus that was briny. It made me think of the sea.

We had a cozy house red wine with our meal. It made me think of cherries, chocolate. While we waited for the main course to arrive a dog came into the room. She was a King Charles Spaniel who was begging food from everyone. She would come and sit on my feet, look very sad and hope I might be kind enough to give her some bread. Typically I am a sucker for any animal but I had a bit of restraint initially but I eventually broke down and gave her bits of bread. She also took a liking to sniffing my legs and hanging about until she found someone else to give her morsels of food. Eventually our wonderful meals arrived. My fiance had the veal and I had the duck. Brown food but very good brown food. Delicate, juicy, and lovingly made.The duck was very simple in its presentation but was juicy and almost delicate. Duck is one of those things that can be over-cooked but the chef had the lightest hand and it translated in the flavor and texture of his food.The veal was tender and the ideal comfort food for my fiance who likes his food without too many details.Valerie would check on us occasionally and we managed to communicate how much we enjoyed the meal.

For dessert my fiance chose the strawberry sorbet which tasted marvelous. It was like someone had frozen strawberries. It was as if the chef had captured all the perfection of a ripe strawberry in one moment. He was like a magicican. I had the chocolate fondant. The outside was warm and rich. The inside has a sponge cake and a cold mousse-like filling. It was another piece of art. I wish I could have some more.It was a long, relaxing meal that allowed proper digestion. One felt absolutely at ease afterward. Oh what a meal.As we left Valerie came outside and waved good bye to us even though the small restaurant of 20 tables was full.I long to return to Paris to have meals like that once again.
Genevieve <email>
Seattle, Wa USA Wed 04/20/2005

Great coffee and hospitality
Bistro Du Monde, Metro Ecole Militaire, 85 Ave. Bosquet. Stopped in for coffee in Feb. English speaking Olivier tends the bar, makes the coffee and owns the place with his parents (his father is a retired pharmacist). He even took the time to introduce me to his mother. A great mix of clientle from locals with briefcases to Mairie De Paris city workers with brooms. Olivier's hospitality made me feel like a "regular", and he included me in the ongoing morning conversations, translating back and forth between French and English, knowing my nursery school level French was not up to the task. Would recommend without hesitation and I am looking forward to my next "real" cup of coffee when I return again to Paris.
Harry <email>
Philadelphia, PA USA Mon 04/18/2005

Restaurants
We had two wonderful meals on our visit to Paris. Au jardin in the Latin Quarter; 15, rue Git le Coeur. A small, intimate and creatve restaurant with fresh and inovative French cuisine. Katy and Phillip will be sure you have a wonderful meal.

Paul et Gwena 34 rue Durantin in Montmarte. A new restaurnt that opened just the day before we were there. Warm and comfortable with friendly service. The beef Bourignon was great!! The salad was fresh and very interesting!

PLease give both of these new restaurants a try on your next visit!
TLC <email>
Edmonds, WA USA Sat 04/16/2005

Dining in Paris
Polidor has been on of our favorite dining experiences so far, since we moved to Paris on April 1. The pork curry, bean salad, lentil soup, mousse, all were wonderful. We were told Bistro Fernand is even better. Lunch at BHV Dept. Store is good and low cost. Here's to a wonderful year in Paris. Pam and Jim Leavy, Paris, France, (formerly St. Petersburg, Florida),
Pamela Leavy <email>
Paris, France Tue 04/05/2005

3 great Paris eating experiences
Wife and friends spend easter weekend in Paris, and had three good eating experiences:

Caf? du March? on corner of Rue Cler and Rue Champs de Mars was great, our portuguese waiter was thrilled to get to practice his english. The fixed menu was good, with generous portions. We ordered 4 deserts and shared. They were all great. We spent 150 euro for 4 people including 3 bottles of wine and coffee and desert. Best caf? au lait and chocolat chaud (hot chocolate) that we had.

Caf? le Bosquet was a great dinner. Again, stick with the menu, and you can't go wrong. Desert was good, but not as good as Caf? du March?. Spent 140 euro for 4 people, including 2 1/2 liter carafes of wine. Good coffee and chocolat chaud.

"Spicy", on Ave Franklin Roosevelt was a good stop, just a block north of the Champs ?lys?es, near the Ave Franklin Roosevelt Metro Stop. The pesto ravioli was the best meal I had in Paris. Less casual crowd than the rue Cler area. English translations on the menu were a little off. Bad coffee.

I'm now on a mission to find coffee in Cincinnati that comes even close to what I had in paris. Starbucks sucks! Write if you have any suggestions.
Mike <email>
Cincinnati, OH USA Sun 04/03/2005

Cheap Lunch near Ecole Militaire Metro Stop
The grocery at the Ecole Militaire Metro stop offers a drink, a generous baguette sandwich, and a pastry for 4 euro. It's on Ave. de la Motte Piquet, right next to Hotel Royal Phare (which was inexpensive, functional, and had a GREAT friendly staff).
Mike <email>
cincinnati, OH USA Sun 04/03/2005

Paris food!
Just back from Paris - stayed in the 7th. Confit du canard and profiteroles at Cafe du Marche were great. Coq au vin and some kind of lapine (rabbit) dish at La Varangue were wonderful, although Philippe didn't seem to be in a good mood - it was a slow Friday night. La Source on la Tour Maubourg had an excellent roast beef special and a very prettily served Croque Madame. Tribeca on Rue Cler has Italian food that is okay for a change - the antipasto appetizer was very good. La Terrasse du 7eme (next to Ecole Militaire metro stop) was super. Smiling, happy waiters and super seafood. Order the Moules(mussels) - you get a huge pot full of them in a cream-wine sauce. Their potage la oignon(onion soup) was very tasty. Nice wine selection and big desserts!
kbrennan <email>
omaha, ne USA Wed 03/23/2005

Le Verre A Soi
If you would like a break from the traditional French custom of smoking during meals, try Le Verre A Soi, a small, non-smoking restaurant that offers excellent, traditional French food! It's walking distance from the Arc de Triophe just on the other side of the Champs de Elysee: 11 Rue de Armaille. The food was amazing and reasonably priced! We also enjoyed talking to Chef Evelyn who told us that she aspired to open her own restaurant in San Francisco.
Mirra Lamagna <email>
Oakland, CA USA Tue 03/22/2005

Eating on and around Rue Cler
Eating on and around Rue Cler!Just returned from four marvelous days in Paris staying at the Hotel LeVeque on Rue Cler. Leo le Lion on rue Duvivier has creative and wonderful food. Fredrick, our waiter, was delightful and made us feel welcome. We also enjoyed La Casa di Sergio and La Fontaine de Mars. A new restaurant on Rue Cler a place called Tribeca, near to Cafe du Marche. We did not encounter a bad meal.
R. Allie <email>
oklahoma City, OK USA Tue 03/22/2005

Le Gros Caillou
My mother, daughter and I went to Europe for 3 weeks last summer. We started out our trip in Paris. We stayed in the 7th arrondisement a few blocks from the Rue Cler. We visited the restaurant on the corner, Le Gros Caillou, for dessert our first night there and they were so warm and welcoming and the dessert was so delicious that we went there for dinner the following evening. The food was indescribable and we ate there every evening until we left. C.J. gave us such warm personal service that we still refer to him as "the delicious C.J." My daughter turned 18 our last night in Paris and our new friend C.J. graciously helped us celebrate with a round of champagne. Thank you C.J. for giving us great memories, travel tips and such a warm welcome to your fair city.
Shelley Olson <email>
Mn USA Mon 03/21/2005

Dinner in Paris
We loved Chez Agnes and Phillippe's place near the Eiffel Tower. These are both listed in Rick's book. These amazing chefs do it all!! Agnes is my Paris Maman!! She is wonderful as is the food!
Jill Biatek <email>
Shorewood, MN USA Sat 03/12/2005

Paris Restaurants
I second Pasco as an excellent restaurant. If you go there, try the Graves Chateau Pouyanne white wine. I had the demi-bouteille with my dinner and it was excellent! A fun place an easy walk from Notre Dame is Nos Ancestres Les Galois. If you are facing the front of the cathedral, walk down the left side across the street. Keep going across the pedestrian bridge over the river and the restaurant is on the right several blocks down. For 35 euros, you get salad (that you make yourself from a basket of fresh vegetables), unlimited bread, a main course (your choice of a variety of meats served with cooked vegetables--ragout and rice the night I went), serve-yourself sausage and side dish bar, serve-yourself red wine (not the best red table wine, but ok), a cheese platter and dessert. Bring a big appetite and go on a day when you have done a LOT of walking.
Nancy <email>
Taylor, TX USA Fri 03/11/2005

H?tel la Roseraie
We had a most enjoyable dinner at theH?tel la Roseraie www.charmingroseraie.com in Chenonceaux. You must try their foix gras and french onion soup. The hotel is more than charming and Laurant and Sophie are the ultimate hosts. We thank our friend the Foggs and Rick Steves for the rcommendation.
Robin and Marianna <email>
Washougal, WA USA Wed 03/09/2005

Restaurants near Rue Cler (February trip)
We stayed in the 7th Arr near Rue Cler.

There are many inexpensive eateries in the area, most mentioned in Rick Steves? Paris guidebook (well worth the investment). We particularly enjoyed La Terrasse du 7 eme (next to the Ecole Militaire metro stop) and Cafe du Marche (37 Rue Cler). The Petite Brasserie PTT (next to the Post Office at the end of Rue Cler) is good for breakfast.

A very nice restaurant just a few blocks away is the Mediterranean-influenced Pasco (74. Blvd. de la Tour-Maubourg, 01-44-18-33-26) with very good food and service and less expensive than I anticipated. I suggest making a reservation--it was full of local residents the night we went (the hotel is happy to help with this and can also make other recommendations).

As a note, we stayed at the Splendid Hotel. The hotel offers a breakfast option that includes, among other things, a large variety of pastries and bread, yogurt, juice, cheese, cereal, and pots of coffee (or tea) and hot milk. (For those who need fresh fruit daily, it is available at a low price just a few blocks away from any one of several vendors along Rue Cler?keep it in the room?s mini-bar.) I will stay there again when we return to Paris.
Jan Sandberg <email>
Minneapolis, MN USA Sun 03/06/2005

tiny places for lunch in Paris
Another delicious place I ate at was a small creperie in the seventh arrondissement which isn't too far from Musee Rodin. (we went to eat after a lovely morning looking at the statues and other art) 'Le Goemon' is a Breton-inspired creperie (complete with a sea-side decor) which offers over seventy different possibilities regarding crepes. For a little over 9 euros you can have the prix fixe of three courses (along with a beverage) and I indulged myself with three courses of crepes. I couldn't have been happier. Along with the crepes they also serve salads, soups and some mellow Breton cider.The prix fixe meals offers a choice of a crepe or salad for a starter, a choice of four different crepes for the main course and for dessert you can have a scoop of ice cream, coffee or a crepe dusted with sugar, butter and jam.My fiance and I had a nice big bottle of cider with our lunch and it made for a care-free afternoon.I began with the basic cheese crepe and then moved onto another crepe with smoked salmon, asparagus and cream and then ended the meal with one spread generously with raspberry jam and butter.My fiance enjoyed the goat cheese and green salad which he found to be quite filling and he went for broke and had "the super" which involved 'steak, eggs, tomato, bacon and melted cheese'.

It was a pleasing afternoon having a lazy lunch along with other Parisians who were on their lunch hour. Many didn't seem rushed at all which was such a contrast to my own experiences living in the United States where people gulp their food down before getting back to work. Even I am guilty of such practices.People gently enjoyed their meals, savored their coffee, and chatted. It was a nice afternoon of joining in with the locals in their life.

This creperie is run by a husband and wife (the day we were there, the son was helping the Father; who was very kind and patient about my French)There is a non-smoking section in the back.They are closed Sat/Sun.
Genevieve <email>
Seattle, Wa USA Mon 02/28/2005

food
best beef bougounoine is at Chez Rene, and we have sampled at Vieux Bistro and theirs is ok but nothing like Chez Rene and it is near Pl Maubert and full of locals not many tourist seeking it out Their portions are huge so probably you wont want a first course although the sausage (home madeand potatoes was terrifictheir petit plat des petites fours was a hugh plate of little cookieswe actually wrapped them in a kleenex and took them back to our apartment for snacks with tea
Susanne Chaney <email>
Fairfax, USA Sun 02/20/2005

Beef Bourguignon in Paris!
We made our second trip to Paris last September and stumbled on Le Vieux Bistrot, adjacent to Notre Dame (wedged between 2 trappy t-shirt shops!) We arrived 10 minutes before they closed for the afternoon, but they graciously served us. Boy, were we glad! Their Beef Bourguignon was the best we've ever tasted. It was served in individual iron crocks with the obligatory sourdough bread, which we used to sop up every drop of gravy! We sat outside and many people walked by, saw our meal and tried to get in, but alas! they had already closed...lucky us!
Jodie Howes <email>
Pensacola Beach, FL USA Sat 02/19/2005

La Veranque
Thank you Katie in Huston for giving some perspective and critical comment to La Varanque. I had dinner there two years ago after reading good comments at this board. The food was mediocre at best, the ambiance was poor and the restaurant is not frequented by anyone except english speakers looking for someone to talk with. The fact that the owner/chef is occasionally friendly just should not be a sales point in a city with so many fabulous places to eat. Personally, I would choose the crepe stand on Rue Cler before returning to La Veranque.
Larry <email>
Florence, KY USA Sat 02/19/2005

Claude Monet/Meryl Streep/Fine Cuisine
visit www.monetspalate.comMonet's Palate TM - The new film about Claude Monet and fine cuisine including Meryl Streep, Daniel Boulud, Alice Waters, Michel Richard, Roger Verge, Giverny and so much more only available for sale at www.monetspalate.com
Claude <email>
Verona, NJ USA Wed 02/16/2005

Good food near the Opera? Best baguettes?
We're going to Paris with our 7-year old son and wondered if anyone has any inexpensive, kid-friendly restaurant suggestions for the Opera district, since that's where we're staying?Also: is there any bakery that particularly stands out for good baguettes? I don't want just heated par-baked bread, since I can get that in the States. . . Thanks!
Michaela <email>
Tarpon Springs, FL USA Tue 02/15/2005

Tea in Paris
Sally from PA mentioned some tearooms including the lovely Cador, one of our favorites. I would like to add Pegoty's at 79 Avenue Bosquet near the Ecole Militaire Metro. Breakfast, lunch, weekend brunch and afternoon tea are offered. We enjoyed a late afternoon tea after the English manner. My husband was pleased he could order a full English style breakfast even late in the afternoon. My French is poor, I thought I would be selecting a dessert from a cart at the end of tea but I was brought a plate with four desserts all for me! My husband was only to happy to help me with them. Very kind owner too.
Renee <email>
CA USA Wed 02/09/2005

La Varangue, Paris, France
We were VERY disappointed in La Varangue in Paris. After reading so many wonderful things about it, we thought our food was less than delicious compared to the many other places we ate. It was served almost immediately. We thought that was a bit odd, and then realized it was because he was unwrapping the meals from foil, and heating them up in a microwave! Ick! My friend had the duck. The first few bites I tried were good, then suddenly the taste of salt hit me - overdone for sure. I had the chicken tarragon. It was dry and tasted like a pre-frozen, pre-marinated frozen chicken patty. I will say that Phillipe is a nice man and speaks very good English. However, it was an interesting note to me that everyone in the restaurant when we were there were ... Americans! I highly recommend La Taverne (on rue de Italiens), Le Stella (on Victor Hugo), La Maison Victor Hugo (on Victor Hugo)... and actually recommend the chain Bistro Romaine long before La Varangue - they have a great goat cheese on toast with salad appetizer and faboulous desserts!I also highly recommend an in town, off the beaten path wine tasting called O chateau (www.o-chateau.com) - the young French host speaks very good English, and he's very knowledgable about French wines as his family owns a winery. It was a wonderful afternoon with him and the others. In fact, the author of Great Eats/ Great Sleeps (Sandra) was there as a guest as well - I highly recommend her books for restaurants!
Katie <email>
Houston, TX USA Tue 02/08/2005

St. Vincent Tourante wine festival in France
In the early morning of January 29th my husband and another couple and I joined the procession with the Bouzeron vineyard contingent in the St. Vincent Tourante celebration in Beaune, the center of the Burgundy wine region. We were welcomed with smiles and had a wonderful time, marching to celebrate the vineyards, the grapes and the wine. While it was cold, the hospitality was warm. The afternoon luncheon was expensive but fabulous with some of the best food we've had in France. We dined with a Chevalier, the leader of his appellation, which means he has the right to grow a certain grape to make a particular wine. He was a friendly and gracious gentleman. While the weather wasn't the greatest, the experience was delightful. During the tastings in the center of old Beaune prior to the luncheon, we carried our glasses in holders strung around our necks and tried some of the best wine they had to offer and learned a lot about wine and about the lovely people who make it.
Judy Dixon <email>
Dixon, IL USA Mon 02/07/2005

Simple but perfect dishes in Paris
In September I spent an incredible week in Paris (I even became engaged) and ate in a number of memorable places.

The first night we were there we ate in one of the tiniest restaurants in the world. Le Timbre serves some lovely cuisine and is exceptionally cozy and delightful. There is one menu that is passed about and only a prix fix meal is offered. They do offer some regular choices. I adored their Terrine de campagne aux pruneaux confiture d'oignens (terrine with a sweet onion compote) and the house dessert millefeuille du timbre (a napoleon) is always among the choice of sweets to end the perfect meal. Reservations are helpful since there are very few tables and they go quickly. The chef (Christopher Wright) does his shopping everyday so some things on the menu might not be available later in the evening. They cook until there is nothing left.
Genevieve <email>
Seattle, Wa USA Mon 01/10/2005

Wonderful dining in Normandy
L'ecailler. Port en Bessin. Delightful wharfside restaurant. Okay, this is just a bit above Rick's Normal prices (About 30 Euro for a 4 course meal with scallops - specialty of the house) The pumpkin soup was out of the world and their wine list was wonderful and not over priced! Delightful staff and owner. If you're in the area of Normandy... this is a delight! Only 5 km from Cemetaire Americaine.
Bob Stutts <email>
San Antonio, Tx USA Sun 01/09/2005

La Varangue, Paris, France
La VarangueMy wife and I spent two weeks in Paris this past December. Even when one is freezing, Paris holds a special charm. One of the highlights of our stay was the discovery of the cosy restaurant La Varangue situated at 27 rue Augereau, 2 blocks from the rue Cler area, as recommended by Rick Steves. We were staying just down the street, and after a long day of playing tourist owner/chef Phillipe and his excellent food made a wonderful ending to our days. Out of 15 days we spent 10 of those evenings at La Varangue enjoying Phillipe?s wonderful fare. Susan especially enjoyed starting her meals with the avocado salad, and I couldn?t get enough of the escargots and the lobster bisque. Both his chicken in tarragon sauce and his coq au vin were superb. His chocolate cake or cr?me brulee were a perfect ending to a warm and enjoyable evening. Phillipe?s fantastic culinary skills were equally matched by his friendliness and desire to make you feel at home. We frequently met other travellers during our dinners at Phillipe?s and the sharing of our experiences made our evenings that much more special. Phillipe?s young daughter, Marie Catherine, was a delight to meet and contributed to the family atmosphere of the restaurant. Their ability to converse in English was a great help to those of us struggling with our French. We highly recommend treating yourself to a lunch or dinner (he open?s at 6p.m.) at La Varangue. Alfonso & Susan TejadaVancouver, B.C., Canada 01/15/05
Alfonso & Susan Tejada <email>
North Vancouver, B>C> USA Sun 01/09/2005