Food Lovers' France: 2006
Snails... horse meat... tongue... goose liver paté... stinky cheese.... Even people who like American fast food might enjoy Europe's top cuisine. Share your best treats in France.
I love my corner Cafe, but I need coffee to go
Part of the pleasure of visiting Paris includes sitting at a cafe for hours; people watching and lingering over a cup of coffee. But sometimes, you may just need an expresso and pastry to go. If you are in the Rue Cler area, there is a solution. On Rue Saint Dominque, between Rue Amelie and La Tour Maubourg, is a Parisian version of (horrors!) Starbucks. There is a sign of a smiling bear in front of the store.
Rick
Sacramento, CA USA Wed 12/20/2006
French Menu Confusion
Rick's French Phrase Book was very helpful on my last trip to Paris. And, it's funny, too. I also recommend Eating & Drinking in Paris by Andy Herbach. This menu translator really helped us figure out confusing menus. It's a small pocket guide. Don't underestimate how confusing it can be to read a menu in French. And, the restaurant section has just been updated (3rd edition) and has quite a few good choices that aren't in other guides.
Lance
Chicago, IL USA Wed 12/06/2006
Breakfast in Eguisheim, Alsace
This is a recommend for anyone who might be staying at Hostellerie du Chateau (in Eguisheim, Alsace) - Rick Steves' France 2007, page 739:
You might be tempted to pick up breakfast out and about in town (often less expensive than in the hotel), but consider giving yourself a memorable experience and have your petit dejeuner right there in the breakfast room. The presentation was lovely, choices extensive (even a soft boiled egg on request), and all served in an unhurried fashion with grace and respect for the patron. A morning to remember!
Sylvia
Oregon USA Tue 11/21/2006
La Varangue
Have been to LaVarangue on past three trips to Paris. Each time you have a different experience depending on what mood Phillipe is in. When he is in a good mood you have a delightful time. He can be very loquatious. However, if he isn't in much of a mood you can be in and out in less than an hour. On out next trip in March we probably won't enjoy his delicious food as there are too many other good restaurants in the area.
USA Tue 11/21/2006
La Varangue-Paris
Excellent cuisine for a reasonable price in Rue Cler area. And a self serve laundry is next door. No wasted time watching and waiting for our laundry.
USA Wed 11/15/2006
Excellent Restaurant in Caen, Normandy
Rick recommends visiting the WWII Memorial Museum in Caen, Normandy. We suggest you also take in the Chateau Ducal (William the Conquerer hung out here) and enjoy a fine lunch (al fresco if the weather is good) at Cafe Mancel located adjacent to the Fine Arts Museum on the chateau grounds; tele. +33(0)2.31.86.63.64, www.cafemancel.com. Parking is available in the underground garage.
Dick Jordan
San Anselmo, CA USA Mon 11/13/2006
Great Restaurant in Beaune
Caveau des Arches, 10 Boulevard Repreuil, Beaune, Tel. 03.80.22.10.37 (not in Rick's guidebook) is about two blocks from one of Rick's recommended hotels (Hotel des Remperts). The food is typical Burgundy cuisine, well prepared, and reasonably priced. We thought the food was actually better than the well-known and highly touted (and much more expensive) Le Jardin des Remperts where we dined the next evening.
Dick Jordan
San Anselmo, CA USA Mon 11/13/2006
Pizza In Chartres
In Chartres, La Passacaille, 30 rue Sainte Meme, Tele. 02 37 21 52 10, www.lapassacaille.fr, (not in Rick's guidebook) serves decent pizza as well as other Italian dishes. It is located about mid-way between the cathedral and one of Rick's recommended hotels, Hotel Chatelet. (We dined there in Sept. '06)
Dick Jordan
San Anselmo, CA USA Mon 11/13/2006
Restaurants North to South
We are not card carrying foodies, but we appreciate restaurants that perform to a higher standard. Here are a few we enjoyed from our recent trip:
Paris (7th), Le Florimond; Bayeux (Normandy), La Rapiere; Amboise (Loire), L'Alliance; Sarlat (Dordogne), Le Quatre Saisons*; Villfranch-sur-Mer (Cote d'Azur), L'Echalote
*the favorite
John <email>
Arlington, VA USA Fri 11/03/2006
La Varangue, Paris
How do you do it, Philippe? You prepare, cook, serve & entertain. You have to give credit to your wonderful daughter, Marie Catherine, & your lovely helper, Lauren. Wonderful (& inexpensive) food in a cozy nook: magnifique! We wish we were sitting down at one of your tables now. Until we return, regards from Canada.
Brian Lee <email>
London, On Canada Fri 10/27/2006
Paris Restaurant
We had a fabulous time in Paris in September. A great little restaurant is in the Hôtel Les Degrés de Notre Dame 10, rue des Grands Degrés on the left bank just opposite Notre Dame. Cross the river on Rue d'Arcole, turn left on Rue de la Bucherie, and after a couple of hundred meters, you will see it on the corner. Great food and great service. Order a bottle of champagne with your meal..the proprietor loves to open it. Cheers.
Norm and Julie
Roberts Creek BC, Canada Wed 10/11/2006
Restaurant
Leo the Lion on Rue Duvivier just off Rue Cler is a great restaurant. Not a lot of tourists (a little more expensive than Rick's usual choices)and mostly well dressed French people. Great food and service.
USA Tue 10/10/2006
Villa Romana, Port Doree area
We stayed in the Port Doree area in a lovely hotel I found on Trip Advisor - and totally fell in love with a restaurant next door! There is once fancy restaurant with great reviews (we didn't go there), we skipped that for Villa Romana - the food was great and not too pricey! Like my spagetti bolognaise was 7 Euros, and my husband had a rib steak (not huge, but enough and very tasty) for 10 Euros. When the owner was there, he had the servers bring my husband a glass of ice, we didn't even ask for it - and they had a menu in English, which we didn't need too much. They were wonderful, and the food was sooo good! The pizza we had was terrific, the spagetti, the steak, the tortellini was good too.
We just really enjoyed our experience at the restaurant!
Denise
Lake Mary, FL USA Tue 09/26/2006
Near Rue Cler - La Litote
This is our initial trip to Paris and for our first dinner we wanted something uniquely Parisian and special. We found it at Restaurant La Litote on 24 rue Bosquet! Waiter Elie was fantastic and the food and wine selections are incredible (If you like fish try the Sea Bass - wow!). Opens at 7:15p - try to get there early and get to know Elie. Great guy - warm, friendly man who speaks very good english.
Chuck and Cathy
The Woodlands, TX USA Thu 09/21/2006
Reference book for food in Paris
Just returned from 3 weeks in France this week and wanted to share with you a good resource for food in Paris. It’s a book titled Great Eats Paris, authored by Sandra Gustafson. The author list’s places by arrondissement and has a nice cross referenced index by type of restaurant and specialty. She also includes a map of the location (sometimes a little off). I was traveling with friends and relatives and they were impressed by my ability to pick great spots to eat every night we went out. The only problem I found was actually making a decision on which place to make a reservations. The descriptions made them all sound great.
Mike
Saint Paul, MN USA Thu 09/21/2006
Paris Restaurant in the 7th!
Hey all! I just HAD to share this!! Just came back from Paris last weekend and chanced across this small restaurant which was a recommendation from the hotel in the 7th we were staying at.
The restaurant is "La Litote" at 24 Rue Bosquet in the 7th. (tel 01 45 51 78 82)It is around the corner from the metro (Ecole Militaire stop). It is a small place with about 8 tables, fantastic food (incredible presentation also) and warm friendly service from Ele (not sure how to spell his first name). It is by far the best place I've eaten in my travels to Paris. We didn't find it until 3 nights before we left and ate there every night after.
I highly recommend it!! Considering that Rick Steves loves the 7th, I can't figure out why it hasn't made one of his books! I will be emailing him to find out.
Liz
Liz <email>
Lake Worth, FL USA Wed 09/13/2006
Isle St Louis eating
We just returned from a week on Isle St Louis. The food at the bistros and cafes was no more expensive than the L.A. area, and infinitely better. Cheese prices were 1/2 of those here locally.
Bob Barnett <email>
Huntington Beach, CA USA Sat 09/09/2006
La Serre Restaurant in Paris
In 2002 when we first visited Paris, we ate at the La Serre Restaurant at 29
Rue L'Exposition. We hope to return to Paris in the near future. At that time of our 2002 visit, we spoke with a young woman named Margot who said she had bought the restaurant. I know that at one time the owner of the restaurant was also the owner of the the Hotel La Serre, 24 bis, rue Cler but do not know if that is who Margot bought it from. I believe she said she kept the same cook as the previous owner. Has anyone recently eaten at La Serre restaurant and do you know if Margot is the owner? Do you know the ownership history of the restaurant. What did you have to eat and how did you like the food? We thought it was very good when we ate there.
MariaTheresa
Chicago, IL USA Mon 09/04/2006
Restaurant in La Roque Gageac, Dordogne
I strongly recommend the food quality, outside dining experience and service at L'Ancre D'Or, a restaurant situated right up against the cliff walls in La Roque Gageac (approximately 5 minutes drive from Beynac in the Dordogne region. Best to go at sunset, then see the cliffs illuminated at night. Food and wine are marvelous. You may need to wait 30 minutes even with a reservation in the summer, but once seated the service is excellent. Make a reservation at least 12 hours in advance in summer.
Andy Andeck
Oceanside, CA USA Fri 09/01/2006
Les Maraichers - Rouen - Horrible!
Les Maraichers...worst restaurant in Rouen. We read some great reviews online, so maybe we caught them on a bad night, but...the food was mediocre at best, but any redeeming aspect was far outweighed by the absolutely horrible service! My wife and I were made to feel like a burden to the service staff, when they spent most of their time ignoring the patrons and chit-chatting amongst themselves. After years of eating in France, from tourist traps, to little hidden jewels, and everything in between, this was positively the worst meal I have had in France. Avoid "Les Maraichers" in Rouen at all costs!
GW
Wed 08/30/2006
Les Gastronomes - Caumont, France
When recently staying in Caumont, France (see posting under "Heroic B&B Friendliness"), our hostesse recommended a fantastic little restaurant in nearby La Bouille: "Les Gastronomes." This little place of maybe 8 tables, is run by a wonderful couple (whose name escapes me right now): he cooks, she hostesses and serves. Great set menus at various prices, depending on the number of courses. Very nice wine selection to include a wide variety of half-bottles, which just lets you sample more varieties! They also have a nice selection of Normand ciders from which to choose. Bottom line: a gastronomic feast, from soup to nuts, complete with aperitif and wine, for two, lasting almost four hours...total=80 Euros. This is a must visit if you are anywhere near Rouen.
GW
Wed 08/30/2006
forgetting to jot down addresses of restaurants
Wally, in Reno, use Les Pages Jaunes, the Paris yellow pages to find the restaurants mentioned here.
http://www.pagesjaunes.fr/
Sandy
IL USA Tue 08/29/2006
Avoid Chartier and go to Ulysses (and some others)
We took a lot of comments from others into account and want to add our 2 cents. To qualify these comments, let me first say that we have eaten all over the world in dives and top eateries.
Chartier (Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre): One of the worst dining experiences in my life - hot and cramped seating, surly waiter, terrible food...nothing good to say about this place. The waiter was even shuffling left over pieces of bread from one basket to the other by hand -- no wonder this was the stalest bread we had in Paris, not to mention unsantiary.
Ulysses (Rue Cler): We had the crepes for dinner and dessert...loved them. Added benefit that you can watch them perpared right in front of you.
Cafe du Marche (Rue Cler): It was smoky inside, but luckily it was nice outside and we ate out there. The waiter was really nice and accomodating, making great suggestions to us. Duck was delicious. I would definately go again.
Cafe Do Re Mi (Ave. Hoche): Ate lunch here our first day. We picked randomly as we walked from our hotel to the Arc de Triomphe. How lucky we were. It was a typical Paris cafe/brasserie - we would have gone back if we hadn't swithed to a hotel closer to the Eiffel Tower.
We also enjoy just popping into a boulangerie and picking out a sandwich or quiche for a lunch or snack. We should have done this instead of Chartier that night ;)
Mike
Millburn, NJ USA Sun 08/27/2006
Just an Observation
Doesn't anyone think to jot down the address or a telephone number of a restaurant that they have enjoyed and want to recommend to others? I read these comments and want to try one place or another but now have to do some research online or in guidebooks to find a place that evidently tickled someone's palate. Even assuming that the restaurant name is correctly spelled, it is a chore looking for a restaurant without even an arrondisment or a street to reference. Help!!
Wally <email>
Reno, NV USA Fri 08/25/2006
french guide books
when my family went to france it was kind of hard for my dad because he is the only one in our family who doesn't speak french so he got a french translation book with phrases in french translated into english. there was one phrase that for a restaurant witch was "ma fourchette est sale" witch means my fork is dirty. if you ever said that you would probably be kicked out of the resteraunt. just watch what you say lol.
USA Fri 08/18/2006
Restaurant at Hotel les Florets near Gigondas
Hotel and Restaurant les Florets is located just a few minutes above the village of Gigondas, which is on Rick's Cotes du Rhone villages self-guided driving tour.
Everyone has special places that are etched in their memories forever, and one of ours would have to be the restaurant at Hotel les Florets.
After spending the day exploring the Cotes du Rhone wine villages, we (myself, husband and 15 and 20 year old sons) found ourselves at the end of the day in Gigondas. It was our oldest son's 20th birthday and we wanted to find a special place to dine that evening. We decided to check out the restaurant at Rick's recommended Hotel les Florets just a few minutes above Gigondas. What we found was a true paradise-a dining terrace surrounded by beautiful pots and pots of hydrangeas and flowers with filtered sunlight (it was about 6:30 p.m. on June 26) drifting down through the plane trees. It was absolutely beautiful and a place we will never forget.
We had an hour before dinner, so we had drinks and some wonderful tapenades on the terrace as we gazed in amazement at the beauty around us.
We all ordered the 25 euro four-course menu which was classic French cuisine and it was absolutely delicious. Everything was cooked to perfection and the staff was warm and welcoming with a very high attention to detail.
After finding out it was our son's birthday, Thierry (who speaks English) brought him out a dessert with a candle, which was very thoughtful.
This was a dining experience we will never forget, and we highly recommend this place. The indoor seating also was lovely and I can only imagine that they give the rooms in the hotel the same attention to detail. If we ever have the opportunity to visit this area again, we will return to dine, and maybe even stay, at Hotel les Florets.
www.hotel-lesflorets.com
Janet <email>
Maple Grove, MN USA Wed 08/16/2006
Cafe Au Gros Caillou
This review is LONG overdue! While visiting Paris in 2003, I stopped at a laundromat to do my family's laundry, only to discover that I could not figure out how to operate the machines! I knew enough French to get me by, but those operating instructions were beyond my skill level! A very nice gentleman helped me with the instructions and I learned then that he had just opened a new restaurant, Cafe Au Gros Caillou, which was located just around the corner. He invited my family to visit his restaurant. We did so, and enjoyed every moment of it! The food was absolutely delicious and the service was incredible! This owner was accommodating and extremely gracious. Cafe Au Gros Caillou bistro is a must stop; you will not be dissappointed!
Jody
Minneapolis, MN USA Sun 08/13/2006
Crepes at Rue Cler
I've been to Paris three times and each time had to have crepes at the stand (now with sit down service) on Rue Cler. What a disappointment! For the first time, crepes were not made to order, but pre-made! Worse yet, service was bad and the crepe maker was surly. This is one place you want to pass up.
Grace
San Francisco, CA USA Sun 08/06/2006
French food
Having said our goodbyes to the rest of the Rick Steves tour, we spent our last day on a long walk from the Bastille area up Rue de la Roquette to the Pere Lachaise Cemetery. This was July 18, 2006 a very hot month all over Europe. Near the Pere LaChaise we came across a lavender building called "Q BAR" It turned out to be an excellent Thai restaurant WITH AIR CONDITIONING! One of the high points of our day.
We had a hard time keeping cool. Only thing that really helped was cold showers. No iced drinks and very little AC, but you can tell right away from this that France must use less electricity than a similarly-sized state in the U.S.
Also, got a bit tired of heavy foods. Coming from the Western U.S., we have much more fresh food, salads, and a ready supply of cool drinking water. TAKE WATER WITH YOU WHEREVER YOU GO. STAND IN THE SHADE, GET UP EARLY, ETC.
Market day is also good for buying fresh fruit-- always very good. I love those excellent pastries, and no one makes them like the French, but I probably ate my fill for a few years.
Lucia <email>
Phoenix, Arizon USA Fri 08/04/2006
Under the Madeline
We read about a very unknown place for lunch in Paris. It is actually for all the employees but visitors are very welcome. The price 7 euros prix fix. Three choices with dessert, expresso 1/2 Euro. Not gourmet, but you will be the only english speaking patrons and my wife and I shared a table with two delightful Parisian matrons who gave us the lay of the land. When you face the entrance to the Madeline, walk on the right side halfway down thru the small passageway and Voila....Lunch! Interesting that our cab driver insisted that there was absolutely no restaurant in the Madeline. Ha Ha!
Chuck Kinsey <email>
Carlsbad, ca USA Thu 08/03/2006
Fabulous Avignon Dining Experience
We found this wonderful Bistro in Avignon. You can eat on Place Horlage under a tent but we chose to dine inside so we could watch the bar and kitchen and all the fun these wonderful people had. We had such a fun time, we ate there again on our second night in Avignon as well. We began with Kir Royals, (always have them looking at the eiffel tower in Paris too) I ordered a bottle of Clos De L'Oratoirie de papes Chateauneuf-du Pape '03. $26 (US) Perfect. We both ordered the fixed menu at 11 Euros(unreal) I had Moules Gratinee and my wife had the Salade Mistrel which has faux crab, asperugus, tomatoes and avocado with that wonderful mustard dressing. I had the duck leg and my wife had the Lamb Provencal. Both came with pommes frites and haricot vertes. We had cheese then coffee gelato from the third restaurant down which specialized in ice cream and desserts and a boy came racing up the square with our desserts on a tray on his shoulder and passed it on to Sonya and she floated over to our table with a "Voila" This is not Alain Ducasse but remember, eating 4 star every night is actually a chore. Incidentally, the family owns the three restaurants all in a row on the square so you can actually order off any of the three menus and each has a kitchen. I videoed our waitress Sonya and the owner Gerard and the "BIG BOSS", Gerard's wife who attended to the bar and of course the MONEY. Way yummy and way reasonable. Pope John loved this place....no just kidding!
Chuck Kinsey <email>
Carlsbad, CA USA Thu 08/03/2006
Restaurant on rue Bosquet in Paris - Le Septième Vin
We loved our meal at Le Septieme Vin on rue Bosquet right next to the Hotel Prince where we were staying. It was probably the highlight of our eating experiences in Paris. The personal service of the owner/chef was just wonderful. We lingered for hours over the meal. There are a lot of restaurants in the neighborhood and we had good experiences at all of them but this was the best.
rg
Anchorage, AK USA Sun 07/23/2006
Fine Dining in Beaune
We ate at the Chateau de Bellecroix near Beaune, on the road toward Macon. The meals at that restaurant were incroyable. They serve many local specialities in a superb dining room. And of course coupled with a very nice wine list.
Frances
Berkeley, CA USA Sat 07/22/2006
Paris food
Just returned from a week in Paris. Loved it! Three places to eat I highly recommend are Le Cafe du Marche on rue Cler, Nectarine in Place de Vosges, and, my favorite, Chez Agnes on rue Augereau. All have great food, reasonable prices and very friendly service. Agnes was a highlight of our trip. Eat dinner with Agnes and then take a short walk to the Eiffel Tower in lights. This is the true Paris experience.
Jay Cannington
Marietta, Ga USA Fri 07/14/2006
Restaurant near rue Cler
Just returned from two weeks in Paris. We came upon Restaurant La Litote and enjoyed two dinners there. They have a fixed price dinner 33E and an English menu. Elie waited on us and offered us samples of various French liquors/Cordials. He speaks very good English (and attempted to understand my fractured French). We had an excellent chocolate dessert which was as smooth as a chocolate truffle filling and contained pistachio cream. Yum!
www.la-litote-paris.com
Rand <email>
Milwaukee, WI USA Thu 07/13/2006
Paris restaurant, Rue Cler area
Just came back from Paris, and want to add my voice to all those recommending La Varangue (27 rue Augereau) in the 7th. We ate there several times during our trip, and not only was the food really good and bargain-priced, but the owner, Philippe, speaks English and is charming. Dinner seemed a mix of local French plus Americans, Australians, and even someone from Singapore. Lunch was mainly a French crowd. The quiche is obviously homemade, and the best I've ever had, and the chocolate cake is incredible!
I also recommend Tante Marguerite on rue de Bourgogne in the 7th--considerably more expensive, but very very good food and atmosphere, and relatively undiscovered.
Larry R Richard <email>
Wayne, PA United States Mon 07/10/2006
Bar/Bistro near Rodin Museum
Two strike outs to enter Le Musee Rodin near Varenne Metro gave us a chance to visit Le Martignac Bar & Bistro at 109 Rue de Grenelle, around the corner. There was wonderful food, perfect neighborhood bar ambience, great drinks, amazing food-particularly the deserts- I can still see the vat of custard and meringue overwhelming my eyes and stomach, and the most incredible welcoming attitude of the owner. Do yourself a favor and see the Rodin museum but be sure and partake at Le Martignac.
Fred Fox <email>
Austin , Texas USA Fri 07/07/2006
Maybe Best Meal We Ever Had!
Arriving late in the evening in storybook-beautiful Beynac (near Sarlat, in Dordoigne region) the chef at the Hotel Bonnet--not where we staying, incidentally--kindly offered to serve us. What came out of the kitchen was maybe the best meal we had ever had. Now, we are not gourmets (gourmands?) but it was exquisite. And with American forwardness, we asked the chef's wife (and hotel hostess) to ask him to come out of the kitchen so we could say "Thank you!!". The chef, Bruno Piquant, had studied under one of the great French chefs of the last twenty years, Marcel d'Oiseau....I think that's d'Oiseau's first name...just incredible food.
Bruno and his Swiss wife, Yvonne, had just recently taken over the running of the Hotel Bonnet. If you dont stay at the Hotel, at least EAT there a couple of times...we did and will talk about for a very long time.
Shane and Tina McCamey <email>
Clackamas, OR USA Thu 07/06/2006
Paris 7th Arrondissement Restaurant
Do not miss Phillippe's restaurant - La Varangue - 27 rue Augereau! Scrumptious entrees and superb desserts all served with hospitality and personal warmth by Phillippe himself. His chocolate cake is to die for!
John & Melinda Duncan
Houston, TX USA Mon 07/03/2006
Resto near Champs Elysees
Here is a good, reasonably priced restaurant at the foot of the Champs-Elysees. I wouldn't go out of my way to eat there, but it's a good location considering the much more expensive and less tasty options a few blocks further! Pasta PaPa, 1 bis, rue Jean Marmoz (Rond Point des Champs Elysées), metro Franklin Roosevelt. www.pastapapa.fr. Menus have English translations. Telephone 01.42.25.42.02
Amy <email>
Paris, France Thu 06/29/2006
Ecole Militaire Cafes
We did a 2 day side trip to Paris a few days ago with no advance preparation and everywhere we ate was great! I can recommend La Terrase cafe and Le Mepartu cafe and another one to the right of Le Titi-something in the Ecole Militaire area. In each restaurant they spoke English and were very nice. Each restaurant had a deal where you get an appetizer, entree and dessert for 20-30 Euros.
Laura
Bakersfield, CA USA Mon 06/26/2006
Yeah, the food's okay, but the Bread!!!!
If you're in Paris and love bread find an Eric Kayser Boulangerie. There are different locations; I think the flagship location is on Rue Monge in the Latin Quarter (?), but my family and I bought bread and croissants from the Rue Dauphine (near Rue de Buci) location every morning, and they were fabulous. If you love crusty, chewy baguettes and tender buttery croissants and pain raisins, this is the place!
Ellen <email>
Gurnee, IL USA Sat 06/24/2006
Arles - La Camargue
I've been to this fantastic restaurant in the middle of the Camargue area called La Chassagnette. It is an out of the time place where you can eat great fish in front of the organic garden. You go there and never want to come back to the real life!
Lisa Ryba
New York, NY USA Wed 06/21/2006
Fun dining...
We just returned from Paris. While there, we found this delightful place to eat in Montmartre. Pizzaeria Bella Italia - 7, reu Tardieu - 75018 Paris. 01-42-62-01-14. The food is excellent, the service is too. Inside or outside dining. We ended up going back two more times.
Gary Hoffman <email>
Post Falls, ID USA Tue 06/20/2006
Heavenly Dining
If in the Rue Cler area, please stop by and enjoy the best crepes, and believe it or not, the best greek food ever at - Ulysse at 28 Rue Cler. Please say hello to Vassilis, my dear friend and host, and tell him Julie from New York sent you! He is wonderful, funny, charming, helpful and most of all very cute! Also stop by a very new restaurant around the corner - LA Litote' - 24 rue Bosquet - where I had the best meal in Paris, and the most fabulous dessert of my life - the best ever mousse de chocolate, and the Basil icecream! I cannot wait to go back.
Julie Horvath <email>
New York, NY USA Mon 06/12/2006
Le Rousseau
Last night I went to a great restauraunt called Le Rousseau. It's around the St. Germain area in the 6th. The address is 45 rue du Cherche Midi. It was very nice inside, air conditioned, and had outside seating as well. The service was very friendly, though a bit slow, but it was a very enjoyable place to be. Our server spoke English.
The magret du canard with the sauce au miel (duck with honey sauce) was excellent. The potatoes were amazing. The creme brulee was also great. For two of us to share an entree, get our own plat, share a dessert, and each have a cocktail, it was about 60 euros total. Nearest metro is St Placide.
Liz
Ann Arbor, MI USA Sat 06/10/2006
I just returned last week from vacation in London & Paris with my sister. We had a wonderful time and Paris has fantastic food! One of the most memorable places we ate was Les Deux Magots... though I don't remember exactly what I had for lunch, I do remember the dessert for sure! Picture perfect and unbelievably good. Also, for anyone who loves crepes as much as we do, Ulysee on rue Cler has the best crepes in the city (we know, we ate them every night!). Based on our experience at trying all kinds of things and never missing, I can't imagine that Paris could produce a bad meal.
Carla
Columbus, OH USA Fri 06/09/2006
Leo le Lion and Les Deux Magots
I can only add to the list of people praising Leo le Lion. Wonderful food and spirited service made dining there a real pleasure. We had many good meals while in Paris and wonderful service. The only place that disappointed was Les Deux Magots, where our waiter (only, others appeared fine) seemed determined to provide service that was, at best, indifferent and, at worst, downright rude.
Chris
Virginia Beach, VA USA Thu 06/08/2006
Dessert in Paris
Tribeca, a wonderful little pizzeria on the Rue Cler, has the most excellent tiramisu we have ever tasted!
The Szkatulski Family
Glenview, IL USA Fri 06/02/2006
Wonderful cafe in Paris
The cafe A La Tour Eiffel on the corner of the Rue de Commerce and the Rue de Entrepeneurs (a short walk from the commerce metro stop) is an adorable little cafe.
The staff is very friendly.
I arrived in Paris after a sleepless night on a train only to find myself in the dark and locked out of my hostel (it didn't open until 8 am) and so I walked over to this cafe looking tired, disheveled, and doing terribly at understanding or using my French.
Despite this the staff was VERY friendly and when I returned for lunch the same day they were again very friendly and used what English they could for me.
The food was fabulous- I got the plate of the day which was a quiche.
It's a nice place, out of the main tourist fare. A good chance to enjoy good food, friendly service and have fun watching the locals converse.
Be sure to say "au revoir" as you leave - it's polite and they'll do the same.
But avoid the nearby 3 Ducks Hostel at all costs. It is simply disgusting.
Rachel <email>
Fayetteville, AR USA Wed 05/31/2006
Good food in Paris
We live in Paris and recommend an insider's restaurant guide, available at www.parlerparis.com, a site by a longtime American in Paris, Adrian Leeds. We enjoy Le Pre Verre in the 5th and Georges at the Pompidou for special dinners-great view. A don't miss treat-the gyro sandwiches in the Latin Quarter, stuffed with roasted chicken and frites. Don't grouse about the coffee prices, you are paying for real estate--great cafes and the eye-candy people watching. Pam and Jim in Paris
Pamela Leavy <email>
Paris, France France Wed 05/24/2006
Menu translator and restaurant guide
Love Rick's recommendations for eating in Paris. I recommend Eating & Drinking in Paris. It's a little pocket guide with great eating suggestions, but the best part of this guide is that it contains a menu translator that's really helped me avoid ordering stuff I don't like. Highly recommended! And, it only costs $10.
Karl
Milwaukee, WI USA Tue 05/23/2006
Paris restaurant recommendation
Paris dining alert: Very hungry after a lazy morning start to the Montmartre Cathedral, our party of 4 received a warm welcome and a fabulous late lunch at Bistro Lepicurien, 86 bis, rue Lepic, on the way down to le Moulin Rouge. We still talk about our lucky find!
Mary B. Johnson <email>
New York, NY USA Thu 05/11/2006
Favorite Lunch Spot
Naked Lunch -
No, not the book, but my favorite eating place in Paris called Naked - simply the best wraps and health food, free Wifi -
Naked, rue du Colisee in the 8th
Tony Tidswell <email>
Montpellier, France Thu 05/11/2006
Superb Nice Restaurant
In Nice, just off the Rue Massena (6 Bis Rue de France/tel 049.387.3055) is restaurant Il Violetto which serves superb food at reasonable prices and with one of the most courteous and cheerful staff I have ever encountered at a French restaurant. Their menu--from seafood pasta to a clam bisque to steak frites--reflects pride and culinary skill. After one dinner there, we dragged three friends for another dinner who then brought five other friends for yet another dinner. The waiter even brought out two uncooked fish to explain the differences between them. There's also an awning and heaters for dining comfort. Interior is clean and quaint.
Cathy Miler <email>
Shoreline, WA USA Wed 05/10/2006
Paris food
Favorite meal in Paris? Chez Agnes!!!! The 'menu' option was great!!! Also liked La Varangue on the same street (rue Augereau)
Sara
Redwood Falls, MN USA Tue 05/09/2006
Café Au Gros Caillou
Boy this is long overdue. I want to second Chris Hoverson from Texas. In March of 2005 my wife and I visited Paris and stayed there for a week. Each night we looked for a new and exciting dining experience and we were never disappointed. That said, we had our two favorite meals at Café Au Gros Caillou located at 210 rue de Grenelle. As Chris said, the owner speaks perfect English, was very friendly and engaging, and always helped us choose the best meal to fit our tastes. And I will add the food was incredible! I'm now convinced that wonderful dining in Paris need not cost you an arm and a leg. We had our two least expensive and best meals at this wonderful bistro. I'd strongly suggest giving it a go for a relaxing, comfortable dinner without all of the formality you expect in Paris.
Matt Fratzke
Lake Oswego, Oregon USA Sun 05/07/2006
French pal
Everyone has such a different idea of delicious food. Does anyone have a suggestion for a good affordable restaurant that I could take my french pen pal and her husband. We have not seen each other in nineteen years, so this is a big event. She came to me in the states and this is the first time I have gone to France. I speak some French, but English would be helpful.
Lorretta <email>
Houston, Texas USA Sat 05/06/2006
Food in Paris
Loved lunch at the Cafe du Marche on Rue Cler. Filling and tasty salads. There is a fabulous patisserie just across the way for dessert! They also sell tasty sandwiches for 4E.
The highlight was dinner at La Brasserie Bofinger off Place de la Bastille. Service is excellent and the place is stunning. Extensive kids menu with an "aperitif" that made my daughter feel like a princess. French onion soup is excellent. Our meal was great (I had veal stew and my husband had steak). The profiteroles for dessert are enough to split. Don't miss the Bofinger in particular!
Linda
Haverhill, Ma USA Fri 05/05/2006
Carcassonne
One of our better meals was at L'Auberge de la Dame Carcass in Carcassonne. It was receommend by the bed and breakfast owner where we stayed. It is located inside the cite and is very quaint. The food was excellent and very reasonably priced. Certainly not a tourist trap as I would have expected. Don't miss it.
Linda
Haverhill, MA USA Fri 05/05/2006
Cafe on Rue De Seine
After walking up and downthe Blvd. St. Germain to find "the perfect" cafe/bistro for our last night in Paris we walked down the Rue De Seine and found our place. At 81 Rue De Seine, "Peres Et Filles" was wonderful. Great food, affordable and full of young locals that we felt we found a hidden gem.
Jonathan Schulz <email>
New York, NY USA Sun 04/30/2006
Columbus Cafe in Paris - 1st French chain of expresso bars
For those of you who want or need a good caffeine kick start to the day, try Columbus Cafe in Paris. There are an alternative to traditional parisian cafes, and there several around Paris. They are a french chain inspired by American expresso bars and are much better than Starbucks. Website is www.columbuscafe.com The mocha is divine.
Iris
New Orleans, LA USA Wed 04/26/2006
Rue Cler and crepes
Our recent Paris trip contained tons o'indulgent eating...thanks to our perfect location on the Rue Cler.
Ultimately, our 2 favorites were 1) the crepes on the Rue Cler at Ulysses (we went every single day and are still craving the jambon et fromage crepes); and 2) L'Auberge du Champs de Mars where everything was perfect from the poulet, to the sauces, to the delightful humming of the woman who ran the place, to their extraordinary Creme Brulee (2 streets away from the Rue Cler)! Follow Rick's suggestions on checking out the boulangerie, fromagerie, etc...
Ness Ito <email>
Honolulu, HI USA Tue 04/11/2006
Great Fondue restaurant!!!
Les Refuge Des Fondues, 17, Rue de Trois Freres is an experience not to be missed! Itty-bitty, hole-in-the-wall place with 2 long tables. To get to your seat by the wall, you have to climb over the table(with assistance from waiters and other patrons). You're elbow-to-elbow with your seatmates, so you can't be shy. Set menu: You choose cheese or meat fondue, red wine or white, and your dessert. They start with a small glass containing (I think) rose and a slice of orange, with sugar crusted around the rim, and a relish tray. The fondue comes and wine is served in BABY BOTTLES with nipples!!!! Dessert includes tiramisu, chocolate mousse, and orange or lemon sorbet frozen into the scooped-out fruit. Great fun, usually a line to get in, but worth it!
Richard Powell
Birmingham, AL USA Sun 04/09/2006
Cooking Class
For a real treat take a french cooking class. Having just returned from Paris, I'd highly recommend Marguerite's cooking class in her home in Paris. The class was E80 per person but included the meal with wine after the cooking class. There were 6 of us in the class and I think it can go up to 8 people. It took about 4 hours between cooking and eating and socializing. Absolutely Delightful! Mmmmnnnn www.elegantcooking.com.
Catriona Binder-Macleod <email>
Newark, DE USA Thu 04/06/2006
Paris Italian Food
I visit Paris for 5 weeks each year and have found the best Italian food in the city. Gli Angeli at 5, rue Saint-Gilles (at rue de Bearn). The best pasta in Paris in an old and intimate setting with few tourists. All pasta entrees range from 16 to 22 euros. You won't be disappointed.
Daniel <email>
Chicago, IL USA Tue 04/04/2006
French Dining Times
I just came back from a great 10 days in France (Paris & Provence). One bit that was annoying is that the French restaurants are so rigid in their meal times, plus often extremely slow, that it disrupts the travel experience. For example, we had the crossiant and coffee "breakfast", go to the train station and spend some hours then its too late for dinner. Then we want to leave about 7 but there is not enough time to eat dinner - voila an entire day on snacks.
So the next day we decide to eat a good lunch at 12, then we get to the train station at 1:25 and miss the train, book the next train which turns out to be a bus ticket sold from the train station, then we make our "20 min by train" trip from Avignon to Arles and get there at 3:30. By the time we walk through town, have an ice cream, and find the museum "that closes at 6" according to their sign, we arrive after 5 and are not permitted in - thus we never saw the Rick Steves top rated sight in the city. We made sure to eat a real dinner but then had to wait an hour at the station and got back to our hotel about 11:00 or later - an extremely tiring day with only a few views of the roman ruins in compensation.
I would mention that for snacks the bakery "Eric Convert" around the corner from the Splendid in Avignon is extremely good for snacks (croissants, tarts, cold pizza).
Greg Moore <email>
Huntington Beach, CA USA Mon 04/03/2006
Paris - dining
We have just returned from a wonderful week in Paris. While there we enjoyed dinner at Restaurant Chez Julien at 1, rue du Pont-Louise-Philippe; and at Le Bistrot de Marius at 6, Avenue George V. The former restaurant was recommended by Oriel Caine of the fabulous Paris Walks. The restaurant faces the Isle Saint-Louis. Dinner for two with wine is about 80 Euro. The second restaraunt specializes in great seafood. Dinner there was about 75 Euros. I recommend both very highly. Steve.
Steve
Dayton, OH USA Thu 03/23/2006
Provence - Vaison la Romaine
La Bartavelle (recommended in Steve's Provence book) has undergone a recent change of ownership and is no longer acceptable. We own a house near Vaison and keep up on all of the local spots. We used to love the place -- food, ambiance, and Richard the owner. The people who purchased it have destroyed the food. We now highly recommend Le Bataleur, near the Pont Romain. The food is exceptionally well prepared and moderately priced. The daily menu is a great bargain and the wines by the glass chosen by the owner are very high quality and also a great bargain.
Lynda Gardner <email>
Portland, OR USA Wed 03/15/2006
We were in Paris with our children two summers ago and had a delicious dinner at Chez Agnes. It took her a while to warm up to us. She definetly prejudges American children. When she saw my kids eat and heard them rave about her cooking she couldn't be more friendly. By the end of the night we were fast friends. If your kids are picky eaters, go elsewhere. If they love good food then by all means help break down the sterotype of American kids eating only hamburgers, mac and cheese and pizza!
susan
st. Cloud, mn USA Wed 03/15/2006
Paris Restaurants
I agree with Jim, Leo le Lion is excellent. However I think the restaurant in The Latin Qtr he is referring to is The Petit Prince.
Joe
San Francisco, Ca USA Thu 03/09/2006
Paris Restaurants
I realize everyone has different tastes, but just left Paris with my son & our favorite Restaurant was Leo le Lion. Again, we were the only non French people in there, until a couple from Boston walked in who said they discovered the place by accident 7 yrs ago. They were so nice to us & we totally enjoyed ourselves, besides being served EXCELLENT food. Also very good very Petit France & Restaurant Perraudin, both in Latin Quarter.
Jim
Marietta, Georgia USA Wed 03/08/2006
1 Restaurant not to miss & 1 to MISS
For a great dining experience: the wonderful, Bouillon Chartier (7 Rue du Faubourg-Montmartre) – it’s conveniently located near the Opéra Garnier and the Galeries Lafayette. This is an historic restaurant with great food and reasonable prices.
DO NOT GO: le Dome – near the Eiffel Tower. The waiters are rude. And they disrespect Americans. We were seated at the same time as two other couples – one French, the other ½ French and ½ American. When we all asked for water – they received a carafe of tap water (free) – while we received an expensive bottle of Evian water (it cost more than most wines). We never received the requested condiments for our meal. The ½ & ½ couple next to us paid with a Visa credit card (the French man’s Visa) – yet when we tried to pay with a Visa card the waiters - who spoke English during the ordering process – now claimed to speak no English, but they did tell us that they would not accept our card. They mimed that the machine would not read it … yet the credit card reading machine looked exactly like the ones that waiters and other sales people had been using for days to take our card(s) all over the Paris. They refused to even try it and demanded cash. Then the icing on the cake … when they gave me my change they shorted me 2 Euros.
Lee
San Ramon, CA USA Fri 03/03/2006
Chamonix, France
The best shrimps (and the biggest) I have ever had in my life were in Chamonix.
I had a garden salad with shrimp. I can't remember the name of the restaurant (it had a terace), but it was on the main street were all the stores are, closest to the bank. Chamonix is a small city.
Beatrice
Cleveland, oh USA Sun 02/26/2006
Café Au Gros Caillou
My friends and I just had our best dinner in Paris so far. By our hotel we found this cool bistro. The owner lived in the states for a while and speaks perfect english. He made us very comfortable and helped us pick out the tastiest dishes on the menu. prices are very reasonable and for 25 euros per person we ate fantastic food and drank great bottles of wine. He even offered us some delicious apple liquor at the end. Check it out if you hang out by the eiffel tower. Au Gros Caillou, 210 rue de grenelle in the 7th arrondissement.
Chris Hoverson
Austin, USA Sat 02/25/2006
Viva la French Cuisine in Nice and Arles
After an exhausting drive from Venice to Nice we stumbled out of the Hotel Windsor for a sublimely simple and satisfying pasta and salad at Vinoina, a little Bistro two blocks from the hotel. Three of us ate with wine and dessert for 100 euros. At Arles we had our best taste of French cuisine at Le 16 and enjoyed a wandering French Balladier.
Clark and Tammy Heindel <email>
Milledgeville, Ga USA Mon 02/20/2006
Le Cafe du Marche
La Cafe du Marche! In the guide book it came recommended by Rick Steves. My husband and I are in Paris right now and we just had lunch there. What a bargain! Lunch specials are only for 9euros and we were stuffed.
Martine
San Mateo, CA USA Thu 02/16/2006
Restaurant Recommendations
Hi Everyone:
My non-French speaking husband & I are going to Paris for a week mid-March. Can anyone recommend some great restaurants? (We're staying near the Louvre.) Any other tips would be much appreciated!
Many thanks!
Carrie <email>
NewYork, NY USA Thu 02/09/2006
Ile St Louis-Eats and Markets
Staying on Quai de Bethune for a week
Need seafood and veggie recommendations-and a good daily a.m. market to get fresh stuff
Bob Barnett <email>
huntington beach, ca USA Sat 01/28/2006
Good Paris restaurant
I also recommend Au Gros Caillou. The owner was extremely cordial, and the food at lunch was excellent, and prices reasonable.
Stephen Bach
Charlottesville, VA USA Sun 01/22/2006
La Varangue
Wonderful Restaurant in Rue Cler area (Near Eiffel Tower)
We just returned from a week in Paris and some of our most memorable and enjoyable evenings were spent at La Varangue, a small and friendly restaurant tucked away on a side street. Business was slow in mid-January, and so we got to speak with the owner, chef, waiter, dish-washer and star of the show, Phillipe, who was more than happy to translate his menu for us. The food was delcisious and my wife especially recommends the chocolate cake (gateau au chocolat). Phillilpe caters to Americans by opening early (6 p.m.) and enforcing a non-smoking policy. We ate there 3-7 nights and only regret not having gone more.
Roger Brunelle
Paxton, MA USA Mon 01/16/2006
Great Food in Paris - No Smoking
We tried to get into Bofingers near the Bastille on Christmas Eve afternoon - but they were closing for the holiday. Wandering back through the Marais, we lucked into Chez Pierro on the Rue de Birague, just off Rue St. Antoine and steps from the Place des Vosages. We were attracted by the several no smoking signs on the door; fabulous food, lovely art, world music, presided over by a charming couple.
Jennifer
Bellevue, WA USA Tue 01/10/2006
Best Water in Paris
For those of you searching for the best water in Paris, try the Wallace Fountain in St. Suplice Square on the Left Bank. I discovered it by chance, walking back from Luxemborg Gardens. A refreshing, sweet, and historic experience; it was working as of September 2005.
Sachi
Bellevue, WA USA Tue 01/10/2006
Gas stations
Budget tip : This might sound weird but stop in at the local gas station while in Paris if you want a snack or if you want to fix your own meal. My family and I stopped in after a suggestion from a friend bc generally they are opened when the Grocery stores are closed. It was similar to a small market with everything... freshly baked bread, fruit, Dairy products, bottled water and even soccer balls and shampoo. There was more variety then you would expect here in the US at our gas stations. I found that it helps to speak French since mostly locals visit these places. Good prices too.
Kate
SC USA Sun 01/01/2006
Cheap Eats, Good Eats
Im a college student so I sought the lower budget places on my trip to Europe. I was lucky enough to meet up with my dad who travels to France at least 2 times a month. Anyways, on the first afternoon in Paris we visited Notre Dame and we wanted to grab a quick bite to eat afterwards. We headed to the right of the river and found this tiny, honestly a hole in the wall place that served nothing but Gyros and fries. They ROCKED!! There were only 3 small tables in the open air but it was tucked away on a tiny little street that was so picturesque. I think we paid about 7 euros each and that included a soda and a HUGE portion. There are lots of spots like that if you just keep walking. Oh near the Häagen-Dazs ice cream shop near Notre Dame there are tons of crepe stands, we just picked one and it was great. Our little adventure :) Seriously though walk through that area and look and see what the vendors are cooking. It was fun and something I will always remember.
Jess
USA Sun 01/01/2006