Heroic B&B Friendliness: 2003
European bed and breakfast hosts and hostesses are notorious for confounding travelers with inexplicable kindness. Share tales of B&B hosts who went above and beyond the call of touristic duty to give you a great trip. Here's what you thought in 2003.
Verona Italy Hostess Extraordinaire
I had a great stay at L'Ospite, just across the Navy bridge at XX Septiembre
Street. Huge room(s), kitchen with all the necessaries, room for 4-6 to
sleep comfortably if desired and a spotless big bathroom! ($60-70 range,
too!) Great central walkable location, too. The proprietor, Federica was
FABULOUS! She walked me to town, helped me purchase an opera ticket (she
knew the best seats), bought me lunch, walked me over to the Botanic Gardens
(my choice) and spent a wonderful day with me. A fountain of local info,
and a wonderful hostess, too — Rick should recommend her lodging, it's great.
Check out: www.lospite.com
Donna Starr <email>
Superior, CO USA 12/29/03
Vernazza B&B, Martina Callo
After researching several B&Bs in Vernazza (Cinque Terre, Italy), we found
a very nice large room overlooking the small harbor for 70 E. My wife left
her coat at the Castello restaurant (excellent local food), and the proprietor
was not in town the following morning. Martina forwarded the coat to our
US address at her own expense (we reimbursed her). We highly recommend this
place.
Robert Keeney <email>
Grapevine, tx USA 12/02/03
Pignara B&B, Padova, Italy
Pignara B&B outside of Padova, Italy was absolutely amazing! We found the
place on the web and it was better than we could have ever hoped for. It
was difficult to locate the place at first since we took the non-direct
route from Verona and it was dark, but coming from Padova would have been
easy. The B&B is run by a family that has a vineyard and a small winery.
They offer two rooms, each with a private bathroom, on the top floor of
their house. The two rooms can be closed off from the rest of the house
for privacy. Each room was absolutely beautiful: hardwood floors; family
antiques; lace-trimed bedding; very modern, spotlessly clean bathrooms;
and beautiful views out across the hills and vineyards.
The family made reservations for us at a small trattoria down the road
and we had a spectacular dinner...the people working in the trattoria
treated us like royalty and were SO friendly and nice. The next morning
we had a nice breakfast in the family dining room. The mother didn't speak
any english but when I asked to buy a bottle of the family's wine, she
simply gave it to us as a gift. It's now at home as a cherished memento.
While this place is about 20 minutes outside of Padova, and you must have
a car to get to it, it's well worth the effort. http://www.pignara.it/
Todd & Jayson Flood <email>
Seattle, WA USA 11/17/03
Inverness, Scotland
Our stay at Melness Guest House in Inverness was made extra special by Joy
who on discovering it was our honeymoon gave us a bottle of champagne along
with a lovely card. This was the first time to Scotland and what a pleasure
staying with such lovely people. We are already planning to go back to visit
for our first anniversary.
melissa & dave
boston, USA 11/10/03
Guest House Lida, Prague
I just returned home from Prague and would like to comment on the extraordinary
Guest House Lida of Jan and Jiri Prouza. Jan exemplifies the meaning of
the word hospitality. Upon arrival, Jan sat down with me to give an orientation
of his city, how to use the municipal transportation system, and a warning
about pick pockets. Nowhere else have I ever received this kind of personal
attention. Jan's enthusiasm is overwhelming.
Jan and Jiri grew up during the socialist regime in the Cezch Republic and are eager to share with their guests the "Then and Now" aspects of this very interesting country. Jan is particularly well informed on Cezch history and delights in conveying his knowledge on this subject. If you are a history buff, then this place is for you.
I paid 36 Euros for a large room with private bath
and the price included a substantial breakfast. There was a marvelous
little Cezch bistro up the street with good food and low prices. All of
this is off the beaten tourist path. If you want a taste of the Czech
culture, stay at the Guest House Lida. Email: lida@login.cz. Email me
if you have any questions.
Michael T. Roberts <email>
Vancouver, WA, WA USA 11/08/03
Gastehaus Grolig, Moselkern
We recently stayed at the B&B run by the Grolig family in Moselkern. They
were excellent hosts, and the room was very clean. They even left small
chocolates on our bedside table. In the morning they had a huge delicious
breakfast waiting for us. The house was a short walk from the Burg Eltz
castle and the Moselkern train station. They were kind enough to pick us
up at the train station when we arrived the first day. I would highly recommend
the Grolig B&B. The husband speaks a little English, but does not read it.
I found that if you go to a web site that translates English to German (free,
search on google), it is easy to exchange e-mails. Their email is www.grolig-moselkern.de.vu.
USA 11/07/03
Korcula Croatia B&B
In June, 2003 my wife and I spent three weeks in Eastern Europe. Our best
B&B experience was with Rezzi Depolo on the island of Korcula, Croatia.
Rezzi rents four air-conditioned seaside rooms just outside the old town.
English is one of her four languages. She is a great source of local information.
She'll invite you down for a drink of the liquor she make from the lemons
she grows in her back garden. Our bill for 3 nights was about $70 (w/o breakfast).
You can find Villa Dipolo under Private Accommodations at www.korcula.net.
Ralph and Connie Fritzsch <email>
Wichita Falls, TX USA 11/07/03
Extraordinary Hospitality in Honfleur
My husband and I were the recipients of the most gracious hospitality and
kindness from Madame Giaglis in Honfleur France.
We arrived in Honfleur around 5 pm on a Friday with no advance reservations and totally unaware that all of Paris had decided to escape the heat in the city by spending the weekend in Honfleur. I went into the courtyard of a chambres d'hote and was met by Madame Giaglis who explained that her rooms were full. We chatted for a bit and I noticed there was a Rick Steves sign there. When I mentioned it, she smiled and asked if we were Americans. After we chatted, Madame Giaglis said she really didn't want us to have to spend the night in our car. She recommended two other places to stay and then added that we should come back if they were full.
Well, they were full. We headed back and Madame Giaglis interrupted her dinner to take us to an apartment that she does not usually rent out for a single night. After making sure we were comfortable, she bid us "bon soir" and said she would see us at breakfast the next morning. Oh and she also recommended a good place for dinner: La Grenouille.
The next morning, we watched the Saturday market taking place directly below the living room window and then walked up to Madame Giaglis's bed and breakfast establishment. We were greeted with smiles and breakfast and had a wonderful conversation with her husband about movies as we sat in their garden.
Madame Giaglis, I think, was convinced we were in danger of not having a place to stay the next night, so she actually went ahead and phoned for reservations for us in Cancale, making sure we even had a map to find our way. We left Honfleur with deep gratitude and the desire to let everyone know about this extraordinary woman and chambres d'hotes in Honfleur. We just hope someday we can return, this time of course, with reservations!
By the way, Honfleur is every bit as charming as
Rick's book and video depict it. And if you ever get a chance to try the
mussels in cream, butter and white wine, don't miss it.
Linda Lovejoy
<email>
Seattle, WA USA 11/03/03
Albergo Bernini, Siena
I stayed at Albergo
Bernini in Siena. It was great. The view from my room and their terrace
was wonderful. On my last day Signore Mauro was going to return my check
that I had sent as a deposit on the room. He couldn't find it. After looking
for about 30 minutes, I told him don't worry, I call my bank to cancel
the check. As I am walking to the bus stop, Mauro comes running up out of
breath with my check that he finally found! Poor guy sprinted to the bus
stop to make sure I had my check. The place is great and if your lucky his
wife might have some leftover homemade marmalade/jam for breakfast! I had
an enjoyable stay at the Albergo Bernini.
Manette <email>
USA 10/14/03
Cinque Terre
We had no reservations for our first night in Italy in the Cinque Terre
this Sept. but had emailed Giuliano at giuliano@cdh.it the night before
leaving as I had read great things about him on the graffitti wall. He emailed
me back immediately asking me to call him. I did and he regretted that he
did not have a room but a friend had a great room available and to call
when we arrived. We arrived after 8:30 p.m. in the dark and the rain. We
called to find that his friend had gone but Giuliano, being the guardian
angel to travellers that he is, came to get us in his car, brought us to
his village overlooking the ocean of San Bernardino to Franca's room (apartment
rather), same rate, coffee bar very close. He found us our own little slice
of heaven. And if that wasn't all, though we walked downhill into Vernazza
(buses ran infrequently), we never had to walk uphill because Guiliano was
always there in his little car to offer us a ride. He accepted no money
for all the help he gave to us but he truly was our guardian angel. I am
so thankful that I put my trust in a complete stranger. Please check with
him for future travel plans to the Cinque Terre. You will not be sorry!
Patti <email>
Westminster, Ca USA 10/10/03
Anvershiel House Quality B&B - Portrush, N. Ireland
Thought I would share my recent delightful experiences with by hosts when
hiking around Ireland and staying in Anvershiel House B&B Portrush. The
property is owned by Erna Bow, she is so friendly and helpful. All rooms
are spacious with colour TV , tea/coffee/cookies and with full en-suite,
a lot of emphasis is on cleanliness throughout the house, it is so clean
in fact; you could eat your breakfast off the floor. There is a breakfast
selection for all tastes, although the Ulster Fry was something out of this
world. By the time you ate the Ulster Fry - no food was required until 4-5pm.
Downstairs there is a large comfortable TV Lounge here you go and relax
to watch TV , read a book or just talk to the other residents in the house
, if you are really lucky Victor and Erna will invite you to join them in
the TV lounge to sample the best taste and the real flavours of 'Irish hospitality'.
I play golf and although I had no clubs with me, Erna's husband Victor came to my rescue and loaned me a new set of clubs owned by his son. Victor then took me out to play golf on a link-course which cost £10 - saving me at least £75.00 for the round of golf - many, many thanks Vic. One occasion Victor took me in his car to view the beautiful Dunluice Castle, Giants Causeway and Bushmills Distillery.
The house which is painted a lovely shade of yellow and
flies the flags of the United States, Australia and Britain, is situated
in a quieter area of Portrush on the main A29 and is only 7 -10 minute
walk along the promenade to the best restaurants in town. Private Car
Parking is available at the front of Anvershiel House and it so essential
-especially at nights when cars parked on the sidewalks in the main thoroughfares
of Portrush get damaged
Larry Gallagher <email>
Belmont, MA USA 09/23/03
Vehicle Accident in Galway
Our visit to Ireland was "saved" by the kind, and helpful owners of the
Annbelle Lodge, Lower Salthill, Galway, Ireland when on the fourth day of
our holiday we had an accident in our rented vehicle. Carmel and Tom took
us in like lost children and calmed us with comforting words, a jigger of
Hennessy and an icepack for my husband's injured elbow! There are no words
in the Texas Dictionary to describe what a difference their kindness and
concern made; actions certainly far above the call of duty as a B&B's responsibility
to its patrons! They helped us immediately after, as well as into the next
day after our mishap occured. Carmel and Tom took us into their private
quarters and gave us us use of their phone for the various necessary calls
to the rental agency etc. and even offered to drive us to the airport for
the replacement vehicle! The local Salthill Garda (police), Grace Hennessy,
and the other two Garda who investigated the accident, as well as the gentleman
(forgot his name in the excitement) who stopped and stayed with us to make
sure we (as well as occupants in the other vehicle) were not seriously injured
must also be given credit for the kindess and consideration they displayed
during that most distressing day! A "Big Texas Thank You" especially to
Tom and Carmel for their calming words which gave us the confidence to continue
our vacation in their lovely country!
Clare Reed <email>
Wake Village, Tx USA 09/04/03
B&B in Venice
What a way to begin my birthday. My husband and I arrived in Venice, complete
with a map and internet information about the Al Campaniel B&B. Unfortunately,
I had left a page of the Internet information at home...because it had our
credit card info on it. Naturally, that particular piece of paper also had
the Vaporetto stop...we looked for the street on the map and took off. However,
over the past 2,000 years, Venice has changed the names of her streets...numerous
times. We wound up waaaayyy out at the Arsenal, where I used my rudimentary
Italian for help. The people were fantastic, but no one knew where we needed
to go. I found a telephone, but all I got was an answering machine. I left
a message and hoped for the best. We finally went to St. Mark's Square to
the Tourist Office — which was closing. I cried and the nice ladies let me
in....especially when they found out it was my birthday. They called the
number on my paper and a lady answered. She was the mother of the owner
and had heard my message and called her son, Marco. I got directions to
the B&B and off we went.
Marco was wonderful and apologized for our troubles — which were not his
fault. He left us a wonderful present the next morning of different pastries
from a local bakery: heaven. Our room had a large bed, ceiling fan (it
was late September), coffee/tea maker, jams and bread for breakfast. The
bathroom was across the hall (on an empty floor) and we only paid about
$75 for the night. They speak English, Italian and Spanish...maybe some
German tossed in. www.alcampaniel.com
Diana <email>
Vicenza, Italy 08/08/03
B &B In Normandy
We stayed with the Delalande family in their super farmhouse B&B. Not only
is it in the perfect position for visiting D-day beaches and Mont St Michel...but
our hosts were wonderful! We sampled Jacques' own homemade Calvados on our
last evening (wow!) Odile had wonderful breakfasts ready for us each morning,
including super pastries and lovely bread! Our children visited the farm
with their sons Guillaume and Olivier and had a ride on the tractor!! Absolutely
marvellous hosts — their English is not brilliant, but everything was perfect.
Their website is www.lafermedupressoir.com You will love it !!
Elizabeth Craves <email>
LA, USA 07/05/03
Positano
We just got back a few days ago from Italy where we stayed in a beautiful
boutique B&B in Positano. It is family owned and the sister and brother
that work at the front desk were very friendly and bent over backwards to
accomodate. When our air conditioning wasn't working the first night, they
moved us up to the deluxe room with a whirlpool tub and huge balcony. All
of the rooms have balconies and they bring up a delicious breakfast to your
room every morning so that you can enjoy it on your balcony while admiring
the gorgeous view of Positano. Their website is http://www.royalprisco.com.
V Rasmussen <email>
san diego, CA USA 06/29/03
Outstanding B&B in Keswick
We spent a week in Keswick at the Dunsford Guest House.Pete & Pat are wonderful
hosts-outstanding breakfast-lovely room.This all helped in making our hiking
holiday,with their guidance,very memorable!We highly recommend this B&B!
Al & Marg Corbett <email>
Calgary, AB CAN 06/25/03
Heroic B&B Kindness
We recently returned from a three week stay in Ireland and England staying
in Bed and Breakfasts. Along the way we had the pleasure of staying at The
Ballymore House Bed and Breakfast in Ventry, Co. Kerry Ireland 3 km from
Dingle. We were welcomed like members of their family with tea and carrot
cake on arrival and two hours of conversation about anything and everything.
Breakfast had various items to choose from which were all excellent and
unusal. Both Therese and Maurice were very accomadating suggesting places
to see and tours to go on. The house was very clean and comfortable and
in a quiet setting close to the sea. Their web page is www.ballymorehouse.com
and their "e" mail is ballyhse@iol.ie. Perhaps the best Bed and Breakfast
we have ever spent time in.
Linda, Larry, Jan & Gary <email>
Ferndale, WA USA 06/09/03
B&B Scheggino
Stayed with Renato and Guilliana Archetti at the B&B Archetti in Scheggino,
Umbria. Fantastic location, and the village is amazing. We left our digital
camera behind and Renato drove for an hour trying to catch up with us on
the road to Perugia. We had missed the camera and turned right around. They
were the best hosts ever. They even want my daughter to come and live with
them in Perugia to learn Italian.
Jeff Ruemmele <email>
Brownsburg, IN USA 06/07/03
Albergo Beretta in Varenna, Italy
During our recent trip to Varenna,
my mother fell and fractured a rib. In response, these wonderful people
did just about everything they could to help her. They even brought food
to our room (at no extra expense). Our room was not only spotless, bright,
and comfortable, it was surprisingly low priced! We will remember the warmth of Albergo Beretta for
many years to come.
Brenda Luke <email>
West Palm Beach, FL USA 06/03/03
Pension Lettie — early am help
Stayed in Bacharach, GE @ Pension Letties. We had an early check-out to
catch the train to Frankfurt, and she was more than happy to whip up breakfast
for us at 6:30 AM (biggest breakfast we had in 3 weeks as well). I asked
if the local grocery store was open early, to which she said "No...what
do you need?" I explained that we picked up some wine at Cochem along the
Mosel River, but missed getting any bottles for home from the Rhine. She
said no problem, called her friend next door, changed another $5 USD into
euros for me (we were purposely running low), and sent me in the right direction.
I grabbed my bags, pressed the buzzer next door, the lady opened her shop — and a few minutes later left with 2 more bottles — with time to catch
our train. Thanks Lettie!
Brian <email>
Silverdale, WA USA 06/02/03
La Sauzette in southwest France
Just returned from our first trip to France-nearly 3 weeks driving around
the south from Provence to the east coast to the languedoc. By far, our
favorite was La Sauzette, near Carcassonne! A lovely farmhouse with a sunny
patio & garden for dinner and breakfast, it is hosted by 2 charming people,
Diana Warren and Chris Gibson. The rooms are enormous and they provide you
with many little courtesies (extra sundries,tea table for a late nite cup,
hair dryers). They kindly helped us book a dinner our first nite at a great
restaurant, but it wasn't as good as the dinner they served to all their
guests the following evening — a 4 hour event under the stars with excellent
local wines,candles and wonderful company. They are superb cooks, but totally
unpretentious. Breakfast is a group affair with a buffet set outside or
in their dining room. Unlike other B&B hosts, they sit down with you and
join in the conversation, guiding you to whatever adventure you may want.
This is an area we had difficulty researching; most guidebooks give it just
a cursory glance, but it is rich in history and culture. Diana and Chris
know it well and helped us tremendously, recommending areas to visit. We
most definitely will return, and hope to have the pleasure of their company
again-we'll just have to stay longer!p.s. they have 2 laid back Newfoundlands,
and 2 very friendly cats!
Laura and Dave McIntire
Clayton, Ca USA 05/31/03
Great B&B in Normandy, France
We stayed at "Le Mas Normand" a Bed and Breakfast in Ver Sur Mer, Normandy,
France. If you are looking to tour the D-day beaches, or anything else in
Normandy for that matter it is a great location. The owners, Mylene and
Christian were extremely friendly, cooked EXCELLENT food and went out of
their way to help us. We were looking for a laundromat to do our laundry,
and they offered to do it for us for free, while we were out exploring one
day. Their dryer was even broken, so he hung dry everything for us in his
bathroom (it was a rainy day). Anyway, doesn't sound like much, but we had
such a great experience there, I just wanted to give them a little plug.
Tim <email>
St. Paul, MN USA 05/08/03
Superlatives for UK/France B&Bs
Despite my trepidation about traveling alone and at a time when anti-American
sentiment is so widespread, I received only the warmest welcome wherever
I went. Special kudos go to:
Bronte Guesthouse, York, England: Delicious breakfast buffet, attentive and down-to-earth service. Ten-minute stroll to the gates of the old city.
Forth House, Warwick, England: Owner cheerfully shuttled me to and from the train station; the room was made for sweet dreams — it was the size of a studio apartment with a plush duvet on an enormous bed.
Hotel du Taur, Toulouse, France: Amazingly quiet despite its (central) location just off a huge, busy plaza that's perfect for people-watching.
Hotel Foch, Tours, France: Owner Gerard Molina is an angel; he spent
the better part of an hour drawing careful directions to the chateau I
wanted to visit and reassuring me that yes, I could drive there and back
in one piece without killing anyone. When I had to get up at 4:30 a.m.
to catch a train, he was downstairs ready with a cup of coffee and croissant
to send me on my way. A simply lovely man.
Rowena Coetsee <email>
Pleasant Hill, CA USA 05/06/03
Kilkenny, Ireland
My husband and I traveled in Ireland last August, using Rick's guidebook
as usual. Unable to find a vacancy in Kilkenny using his suggested places,
we stayed in a B&B called "Dunromin" run by hosts Tom and Val Rothwell.
Aside from offering all the comforts of home, Val and Tom gave us all the
tour info we needed for Kilkenny, and most importantly in which pubs we
could find authentic Irish music. They are most gracious and we highly recommend
their home. "Dunromin" Bed and Breakfast, Dublin Road, Kilkenny, Tel. 056-61387.
Fax 056-70736. E-mail: valtom@oceanfree.net
USA 04/22/03
North York Moors, UK
The Old Manse B&B in Pickering, UK was great! She even offered to wash out
my jeans when I came back from a hike all muddy! And she offers dinner for
only 12 pouunds — she even made me a great vegetarian meal. It is walking
distance to the steam train, which you can take for hikes on the North York
Moors. I would highly recommend it.
Jean Shindel <email>
Denver, CO USA 04/14/03