Archive: Travel Tips for Christmas, New Year's and Easter
Spending Christmas, New Year's, or Easter in Europe is a great way to become a temporary local--joining the church services, concerts, feasts, and gift shopping. What local traditions and special events have you enjoyed? Have you found that museums and other sights, restaurants, and stores are often closed at this time? Where are the best places to celebrate these holidays?
Hi, My husband, daughter and I just got back from a great three weeks in Europe. We used your books extensively in planning our trip, and they were a great help as usual. I did make a few notes to share on our return:
Mt. Vesuvius now costs L10,000 to go up, and the museum fee at the Duomo in Siena has also increased to L10,000. The restaurant "Osteria il Tamburino" in Siena is out of business; and we agree that the people who run Albergo Bernini are wonderful. Over all though, we were disappointed in Siena. The Duomo is spectacular, but otherwise we just didn't get the attraction of the town. We liked San Gimignano and Assisi both much better, but everyone has different taste!
In Salzburg: there was no luge ride offered on the Sound of Music tour (we took Panorama tour, which I think is the one you said had it); and the Goldene Krone was very nice to stay in - very nice people running it - but suggest you ask for a back room. The front ones are pretty noisy; and there was a GREAT free band concert in the Mirabell Gardens one evening - look for it!
Lastly, just wanted to caution a little bit about the "interesting"
high hike from Birg to Gimmelwald via Grauseewli Lake and Wasenegg Ridge
to Brunli, etc. It was "interesting", but had a couple of pretty hairy
spots, and took us 5 hours instead of the 2:50 advertised. It isn't for
sissies! The Mannlichan-Kleine Scheidegg Hike was beautiful, but very
crowded, and the one from Schynige Platte to First was closed because
of the snow and wet while we were there. Maybe we can try it next time!
Thanks for all your good tips, Rick and company!
The Mathes Family <email>
Weatherford, OK USA 07/03/01
We recently returned from Paris and while there we attended church with
the locals. Sunday mass at St. Suplice just happened to be First Communion
Sunday. It was interesting to see the Latin Quarter of Paris as a community
rather than as a 'sight'. There was even a bake sale! The service was entirely
in French and although we did not understand everything it still added to
our cultural experience.
Elizabeth Gallant <email>
Vancouver, Canada 04/01/01
The helpful TI office in Vienna provided for us a choice of several
Easter Masses with music to attend. We chose the Mozart Mass at St. Peters.
Arriving about fifteen minutes early, we had no trouble walking in and finding
a seat. The finale was a Bach organ postlude magnificently performed. Truly
a memorable experience.
Donna <email>
Salinas, CA USA 02/27/01
My husband and I and our three grown children went to Paris for the New Year's holiday, 2001. On New Year's Eve we went to see the Eiffel Tower's fireworks. It was cold and drizzling rain, but more than 500,000 people were gathered. We were disappointed when midnight arrived, and there were NO FIREWORKS. The Eiffel lit up in blue lights and that was very nice, but not what we expected, along with everyone else.
Then we left to go back to our apartment only to find the Metro was closed! Buses were also shut down--and so the taxis were overloaded and there was no way to get back to our apartment. We ended up spending the whole night in a smoky little bar. When the Metro opened at 5:30 am, the first few were so crowded, we couldn't get on. There were thousands of people stranded all night! Later, I found out this happens every year, because tourists and even locals don't realize that the Metro closes at midnight--even on New Year's Eve.
After sleeping all day New Year's Day, we had a wonderful time visiting
all the museums and Versailles. We were there 8 days, and the museums
were crowded enough, and stuffy and warm--I can't imagine in summertime.
Dolores <email>
Abbotsford, BC Canada 02/18/01
New Year's Eve in Granada, Spain: Shops close early; in the evening, no one stays home, and everyone is out, walking to the Plaza Carmen (municipal building) where there is live music, the television mini-cam and lots of champagne & cider being sprayed into the air, with everyone eating grapes, and excellent fireworks put on by the city, right over your head at midnight!
Jan. 1 is dead and in Granada, Jan. 2 is a holiday, too. If possible,
plan it as a travel day.
P.Schulte <email>
Boulder, CO USA 01/17/01
What must be the world's best New Year's celebration is held in Reykjavik.
The bonfires around the city are a great tradition, and the fireworks display
was the most amazing thing I've ever seen in my life (essentially the entire
city erupts in fireworks around 11:30pm on December 31). I hope this becomes
a new tradition for my family.
L Brikman <email>
USA 01/09/01
We just returned from Nice, Cannes, & Paris. Same as the prior posting
about London, we were surprised at the size of the crowds especially after
Jan 1st. If Versailles is this crowded in January, what is it like in the
summer? However, we did enjoy all of the little, temporary Christmas villages
in the towns. While it may have been crowded, it was worth going and we
would go back.
Frank P <email>
Littleton, CO USA 01/06/01
We just spent Christmas and New Year in London. I had been there before
in late September/early October and found no crowds, but 26 December - 2
January was really crowded. While it was fun to be there for the holidays,
and almost all of the sights were open after the 26th of December, I did
not enjoy the crowds and would rather go in late September next time.
N. Pierson <email>
Seattle, WA USA 01/06/01
We just returned from Italy, France, Belgium and Switzerland. It's dead-dead in most places on the 25th AND the 26th. Those are generally good travel days. Do yourself a favor, and make train reservations to your next destination for those days. We were in Turin, which was closed up tighter than a drum on the 26th, a national holiday in Italy.
We were in Europe for about 20 days, and leased a new car (yup, brand
new) from a Renault licensee here in the States (http://www.ideamerge.com).
This is a splendid deal if you stay in Europe over 17 days, and want freedom.
We leased a Clio diesel, which is fine for two people, and the price ($733)
includes all taxes, insurance, title, pickup/dropoff at Brussels National--no
hidden costs. If you pick up at an airport in France (or drop off), you
save $$ ($100 in my case). This is a great thing on those holidays when
you must get someplace else...
Rochelle Weiner <email>
Germantown, NY USA 01/05/01
One thing I miss about Europe is the holiday season. Having spent four years in Germany, nothing beats a great German Christmas market to put you in the holiday spirit. Two of the most famous ones are in Nuremberg and Rothenberg. But both are too crowded to really enjoy.
We recommend Stuttgart. It is very large and has a wide variety of items available. We would be very surprised if you cannot find something for everyone you are shopping for at this market.
The other one I would recommend is Dresden, if you over in the Eastern
part of Germany during the holidays. It is located very close to the famous
Erzgebirge part of Germany, so they have a great collection of the wooden
Christmas items that most Americans like (nutcrackers, smokers, etc.).
Doug and Patty Keating <email>
Charlottesville, VA USA 12/17/00
Ahhh...Prague is magical at Christmas! The hot wine on the streets is the equivalent of 50 U.S. cents, and the grog about 75! Nothing takes the chill off better than strolling along the evergreen-covered booths on a chilly December day!
The hand-blown glass ornaments are worth lugging a packing box and tape from the U.S. They make lovely presents!
My favorite tradition is centered around carp. Near the more suburban
subway stations, you'll find temporary booths with a couple of butchers
at your service. They have large tubs full of carp, the traditional Czech
Christmas dinner dish. Some customers bring their own bags to take the
fish home to swim in their tub until the Christmas Eve feast. Others have
the butchers kill, gut, and filet the fish. The Czech cook saves a scale
to put under each plate. The celebrant then puts the scale in a wallet
for a year of prosperity! I was lucky enough to be observing when the
scales were flying to pack one away in my wallet, and give friends a prosperous
new year!
Caron De Mars <email>
San Antonio, TX USA 11/25/00
On New Year's Eve in Vienna, dance to Strauss at the Kaiserball - they have
a website. We also booked a room at one of Rick's recommended pensions near
downtown for that period for $75 US per night. I think it is Schweitzer.
They are very nice.
SFTraveler
San Francisco, CA USA 09/01/00
If you're traveling over Whitsun Sunday (or Monday), especially in Bavaria,
be prepared for lots of closures. This year Whitsun fell on June 11th and
12th.
Marcia <email>
Spokane, WA USA 06/25/00
Our family attended Easter Sunday services this year in Paris at the American
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity. It's an American Episcopal church, a beautiful
Gothic cathedral located on Avenue George V. The lector (the lay person
who read the Scripture) for that day happened to be Olivia de Havilland,
famous actress and long-time resident of Paris. It was so inspirational
to hear her beautiful voice reading the Word.
Sherry Hill <email>
Austin, TX USA 05/21/00
Northern Europe can be great in the early or late winter. Airfare deals can be had (I flew round-trip from Washington, DC to Amsterdam last November for $235 including taxes!), hotels are cheaper, and the tourist crowds nonexistent.
Check out Amsterdam in mid- to late November during the beginning of their Christmas festival. A large parade with Sinter Klaus (Santa Claus) and Swarta Pete (Sinter's Moorish "helper," generally played by a Dutchman in blackface and Rembrandt-inspired clothes) throwing little gingersnaps to all the children along the parade walk. The sight of the streets near the Dam covered with gingersnaps is a sight to see. Ask a local to explain their Christmas traditions, especially Swarta Pete (Apparently, naughty children in the Netherlands don't get coal in their stockings--they get put into Swarta Pete's sack and taken to Spain!) Quite a hoot!
It's a great way to get into the Christmas spirit, as the Europeans
seem to start their celebrations early, before our Thanksgiving. And if
you forgot to pack your umbrella (and you'll probably need it!), don't
worry, you can buy one from one of the tacky souvenir shops right outside
the Centraal train station for about 10dfl (less than $5 USD).
Joe Graff <email>
Washington, DC USA 05/02/00
Check out the "Hitting the Festivals" board for a detailed description
of our trip to Spain during Semana Santa in 2000.
Dylan <email>
Portland, OR USA 05/02/00
Our most pleasurable Christmas trip was to Rome. We spent about 16 days. In Rome all the churches compete with their creches and some have figures that are hundreds of years old. The churches also have free concerts and festivals. The Midnight Mass at St. Peter's is spectacular. The church is lit up for the cameras and you get a view you never have otherwise. The Pope says mass himself and the singing and music are wonderful. (Tickets can be obtained by writing the Vatican.) There are also Papal audiences to which you can go (tickets from same source) and the piazza-filling blessing on Christmas day.
Piazza Navona has a Christmas market called the Befana, selling food, drink and Christmas ornaments and creches. The Romans are doing their own shopping, of course, and it's fun enjoying them as they shop in the area around the Spanish Steps.
The tourist crowds are very small around most sights (we visited the
Sistine Chapel and enjoyed it with only one other couple). It was a marvelous
Christmas. And we are not Catholic or even religious.
Charles Luther <email>
Katy, TX USA 02/26/00
Many years ago, I traveled through Eastern Europe by train with another American friend. It was Easter, and the landscape was dreary with slush and grey skys. There were no smiles, no flowers and it seemed no hope to be found. But the symbol of spring in Eastern Europe is the pussy willow, with its bare brown limbs and brave silver buds. I bought several branches to bring to my friend's family.
It was 1980, a few months before Solidarity and Lech Walesa would make headlines around the world. Both Poland and Czechoslovakia (still one country) were police states, and we were required to report daily at the local police station. But the pussywillows, that symbol of spring, broke the oppressive spell.
As I stood in the train station, holding my bag and my bouquet, an elderly
woman approached me, speaking softly in a language I could not understand,
and reached up to softly stroke my face. Tears streamed down her face,
framed by a faded flowered kerchief. This grandmother had recognized in
my face some long-lost daughter, and I was honored and moved at her emotion.
I gave her half of my bouquet of pussy willows, and as I did her sorrow
and tearful longing changed to peaceful acceptance. She accepted the branches
and was gone. I have never forgotten her, and I have always had pussy
willows in my house ever since.
Julie <email>
seattle, USA 01/27/00
My husband and I spent the first week of December '99 in Munich. The
temperatures were in the high 30s (F) and it didn't snow that week--just
a slight drizzle the last two days. It was a complete wonderland! The crowds
that visit Europe during the summer are gone. You have the whole place to
yourself. We visited the Christkindlmarkts in Munich several times and we
took a one-day trip to Salzburg on the train. Some famous sights are not
open, like the fountain in the square that was made famous in "The Sound
of Music"--it's covered up for the winter. But the horse-drawn carriages,
hot wine and apple cider, and gigantic hot pretzels were great alternatives.
You couldn't feel more in the Christmas spirit! At Munich's Christkindlmarkt,
we enjoyed beautiful Christmas music while eating everything in sight. The
best thing we did was stay in a little town just outside of Munich called
Freising. It is so quaint and peaceful. They had their own Christkindlmarkt
the weekend we were there and it was absolutely charming. That's where we
discovered the hot roasted candied almonds. I brought two packages home,
reheated them in the microwave and it brought back terrific memories. We
enjoyed the trip so much during that time of the year, we want our teenagers
to go with us next time! It's a great time to see Germany and Austria. Just
bundle up!
M. Schaffer
CA USA 01/13/00
Just got back from 10 nights in Madrid & Barcelona. Boy, they sure
know how to decorate with lights! Both cities have Xmas lights everywhere
BUT nowhere did I see a Christmas tree that was decently decorated!
Bill Korstick <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 12/15/99
I spent last Easter in Salzburg, and I can't imagine a more relaxing, fun,
and scenic time! It wasn't crowded, there was lots of music still available
(church concerts, Easter services, the Easter music festival--smaller than
the big summer festival, but with great orchestral and opera selections!).
Stay at the beautiful, peaceful, and well-situated Institut St. Sebastian
(recommended by Rick) and use the pennies you save for excursions to the
salt mines, Hitler's Eagles' Nest, and concerts in lovely Salzburg! (And
have dinner at Il Sole, a great little Italian restaurant at the foot of
the Monchberg lift!)
Deb <email>
Marlton, NJ USA 08/22/99
I spent a 'traditional English Christmas' at the lovely Berystede Victorian hotel at Ascot last year. It was not totally authentic, of course, but well planned with very friendly staff. They had carolers and a Saint Nick for the children as well as traditional food, dancing and games. Many of the guests were local couples who go every year.
Create your own special moments even if on a package stay. We found
a tiny local church for the Christmas service and had tea with the parishioners
and the vicar afterwards. We also stayed longer than the alloted 3 days,
and enjoyed great personal attention in the nearly empty hotel. Daytrips
were also successful.
Suzi <email>
Atlanta, GA USA 07/25/99
I'm in complete agreement with an earlier post about Edinburgh's Hogmanay
(New Year's) celebration. In 1999, there were a quarter of a million people
jammed in the city center. I thought it was loads of fun, but if you don't
like crowds, you might want to reconsider. (These were the only crowds I
faced during my stay in Edinburgh.) Book your rooms early! I started contacting
B&Bs in August and the vast majority of places I called were already booked.
Train service is very limited on New Year's Day, so either plan on staying
in Edinburgh that day or reserve a seat on a train well in advance. The
celebration starts a few days prior to New Year's Day, so I'd recommend
spending at least four days in the city. It's worth it!
Sara Corona <email>
Milwaukee, WI USA 05/18/99
Flying out of Newark on Easter Sunday this year proved to be one of
the best ideas we've had in a long time. Destination: Shannon, Ireland and
the Dingle Peninsula, in County Kerry. Even with the bank holiday everything
was great (except the weather). Dingle in early spring is pure magic, good
accomodations, food, hospitality and EVERYONE we met was reading the RICK
STEVES guide. NOTE: this trip was after Easter...Dingle on Easter weekend
is full of native "tourists." Enjoy the magic of Ireland's southwest coast.
Mary Ann Osby <email>
HorseShoe, NC USA 05/02/99
I've been to Italy during 2 Easter Weekends and honestly it's best
spent out in the country rather than in Rome or some other big city--unless
you really like crowds. This past Easter we couldn't get close to any of
the Cinque Terre towns and discovered Montecatini Terme, our new family
backdoor. Still extra busy, but not awash in humanity like the CT.
brad smith <email>
tiverton, ri USA 04/25/99
Easter in Monterosso on Italy's Cinque Terre: the processions are incredible
as are the fireworks.
Margot Gupp <email>
McKees Rocks, PA USA 03/14/99
Easter Eve service at Westminster--lovely. A religious experience I'll never
forget.
Betheny Winkler <email>
Kingwood, TX USA 02/28/99
Scandinavia is nice during the summer but during the Winter and especially
during Christmas everyone pretty much stays inside and everything closes
for several days. For a nice Christmas go to Austria esp. Salzburg. It's
really romantic and there is plenty to see in the area around the city to
keep you busy when everything closes. I remember being asked by people in
Scandinavia why I went there during the Winter, as if they would never do
it themselves.
Anthony Riker <email>
Washington, DC USA 02/04/99
My family of 4 took one of the dreaded "big bad bus tours" of Europe during Christmas vacation in 1998. Thanks to Rick's books it was a marvelous experience for us because we were aware of the possible pitfalls of typical bus tours.
We had a magical Christmas Eve and Day in Venice, a city that my 8-year-old daughter had asked to visit specifically so she could ride in a gondola. We did so on Christmas Eve, complete with accordian music and Italian opera being sung by a middle-aged Italian man with a very big voice. On Christmas Day we went up the bell tower at San Marco square, into the beautiful basilica, and were treated like royalty at a little restaurant not too far from the square. It was not busy with tourists at that time of year, and also not too smelly.
On New Year's Eve we were in London and went to the theatre to see "Peter Pan", which our children (ages 8 and 10) both loved. We felt safe on the tube, even though it was full of partially intoxicated partiers.
The weather was not too bad. We did fine with multiple layers topped with a windbreaker. We would recommend sturdy hiking-type boots rather than running shoes, in case you encounter snow, which we did.
Our children had fun comparing Christmas decorations in all the cities
and we learned how to say Merry Christmas in several different languages.
Because we were traveling with a tour group, the details of transportation
and lodging were taken care of for us, and we could spend lots of fun
family time together without a lot of the hassles that sometimes accompany
travelling. We had a holiday season that we will never forget.
Janis <email>
Ottawa, IL USA 01/14/99
The best Easter we have ever spent was traveling thru Southern Spain
during Holy Week. The processionals are magnificent and the highlight is
being in Seville. We were lucky enough to find a room on Maundy Thursday
but I would recommend reservations in advance if possible. Unforgettable
experience.
Lynn <email>
Ormond Beach, FL USA 01/09/99
I had the good fortune to spend New Year's Eve 1996 in Paris. People gather
on the Champs-Elysee with bottles of wine and champagne and at midnight
(counted down by a large bank clock), corks fly and everyone kisses. It's
a unique experience and I highly recommend it.
Jennifer
Florida USA 12/10/98
They said it couldn't be done but we waited on line and got into Midnight
Mass at Notre Dame in Paris on Christmas Eve. Standing on line was almost
as wonderful as the organ music, service, choir, and spirit. Our neighbors
on line were from many different countries, of all ages, and of all religions
and we had the opportunity to share special time together. Don't skip the
things people say will be too crowded....even the lines can be fun and special
if you have the right attitude.
Marcy <email>
NYC suburb, NY USA 11/29/98
This isn't a suggestion for holiday travels but a great way to incorporate your holidays into your X-mas card. I just arrived from a quick jaunt to Greece and while on the Acropolis I saw a family with their camera (with a timer) on a tripod setting up a cute family shot. They were taking tons of time to get the picture right so I'm sure this was to be used for their family X-mas card. If you decide to do this don't get too caught up with looking perfect, breeze blown hair gives the photo life! I thought that it was a cute idea.
Also while we were up there we swapped photo taking with another couple
so that we could have a shot together in front of the Parthenon. I've
done this before in places while traveling alone and with others and have
never had another tourist refuse the offer of swapping photo shots. Good
way to meet people from around the world too!
Lenore Welty (American in London) <email>
London, USA 11/29/98
My wife and I spent last Christmas and New Year in Naples. One of the highlights of our trip was to meander down "Spaccanapoli", the street that literally splits Naples in two. Not only does one visit the church of Gesu Nuovo, the church and cloisters of Santa Chiara, the fantastic Capella Di San Severo, with its unbelievable statue of the Veiled Christ, but the best part is the many displays of the Nativity Scene.
There are a multitude of artisans constructing their version of the
Nativity, each one different and all equally interesting. You can buy
all the pieces making up the scenes, from the statuettes to the little
houses, even the simulated moss and stones making up the village. The
surrounding environment of the Nativity village is built up using bark
from the cork tree, called "sughero" in Italian. The texture of this bark
is scraggly and randomly shaped, much like a hillside would be in its
natural state. The displays left such an impression on me that I purchased
all the items needed to build my own scene. This holiday season, we're
going back to Naples, but when we return, I'm going to build my own Nativity
scene, and display it, rather than a tree, the following Christmas.
Aldo Pileggi <email>
2795 Lynn Street, Frederick, Md USA 11/04/98
The most lovely Kristkindlmarkt I've been to was in Luebeck. It is
quite far north in Germany but worth the trip. The city itself is also quite
beautiful.
Alex Lehane <email>
Melbourne, Vic Australia 11/03/98
There is really nothing so special as Christmastime in Germany. Many have mentioned the Kristkindlmarkts (Christ Child's Markets) which begin around the end of November and finish up Christmas Eve or the day before.
The most famous market, Nurnberg, has become much too crowded, and was boring as well. Stuttgart had one of the best I've seen and the roofs of each stall looked like they had been decorated by a florist. Mannheim and Munich both have excellent markets, but my favorite was in Strasbourg, just over the border in France. There it is called the Marche de Noel. The largest part is on the Place Broglie although there are also some stalls around the Catherdral.
The markets of the Alsace/Lorraine (Metz's is nice too) offer a whole new range of good eating--not a wurst in sight. But the most memorable market for us was in Rothenburg. It was small, but oh, what a setting! Walking the streets at night sipping hot chocolate or gluhwein, while local musicians play "O, Tannenbaum"--this is a memory I hope to never lose.
For an unusual Christmas or New Year's Eve head for Berchtesgaden. Starting
about 11:30 pm, the local gun clubs position themselves in the surrounding
hills and take turns firing their guns. These are short-barrelled blunderbusses
which look like a 17th century version of the sawed-off shot-gun. Then,
at midnight they all fire off rounds and it sounds like a war is going
on. Originally, to drive away the evil spirits on New Year's Eve all sorts
of noise was made with whatever was at hand. Then gunpowder came along
and has remained the preferred noisemaker. Soon Christmas Eve was added
to the annual ritual as well, but on New Year's Eve, individuals add their
fireworks to the festivities. The path below the cemetery is a favored
vantage point, but really any place in town is fine. Don't plan on sleeping
much anywhere in Germany on New Year's as fireworks will be going off
till the wee hours.
Lynne Carver <email>
Union, WA USA 11/03/98
The holidays are spectacular in Europe! Come on over! Yes, it's cold, yes,
it's wet, but oh the treats in store! Christmas markets abound, concerts,
lights, ski events! Vienna for New Year's Eve is the best. Book rooms early.
The New Year's Concert is broadcast on Jan 1 at the Christmas market. At
midnight on Dec 31, all the radio stations play The Blue Danube Waltz, and
people waltz in the streets. What could be better?
USA 10/13/98
The KrisKindleMarkets in the South Tyrol (in far north Italy) are a
relative bargain these days. The one in Bolzano in particular was a joy.
Not as fancy as the one in Munich we attended, but every bit as charming.
We bought enough cheap ornaments for a nice Christmas celebrated in Trento,
50 miles south. I recommend it greatly!
Don Stadler <email>
Silver Spring (going to be London), MD USA 09/26/98
I spent Easter, '98 in Amsterdam. In the Netherlands (as in most of Europe
I am told), locals get Good Friday and the Monday after Easter off work.
As such, everyone travels, and many "go to the city" for the long weekend.
I arrived without reservations and had to scramble to find lodging. Haarlem
was completely booked. I tried dozens before finding a very expensive hotel
in Amsterdam. Travel with reservations on that weekend.
Hugh <email>
Ft. Myers, FL USA 08/10/98
We were fortunate enough to spend New Years Eve 1995-'96 in Florence, Italy. Make your dinner reservations well ahead of time unless you desire a very late night meal.
The banks of the Arno turn into one gigantic party that lasts until
almost dawn. I know, because we foolishly tried to get some sleep that
evening due to a big travel day on New Year's Day Shops remain open on
New Years Eve.
Julie <email>
Morrison, CO USA 08/10/98
Planning on Italy at Christmas/New Year? For tickets to the midnight mass at the Vatican, I would suggest contacting the consulate. They could direct you on the current method. Also, the Vatican has a website.
Traveling in Italy during New Year--what a treat. We lived in a small town south Rome for two years and one of my fondest memories are of the "local" fireworks show at midnight, New Years Eve. Each resident purchases a LARGE selection of fireworks that they send off -- from their yards, street, even apartment balconies! It was wild to watch and lots of fun.
Pay attention to holidays, as things are closed. The gas stations announce
it as a strike, but it really is just being closed for the holiday. That
will be December 25, January 1, and January 6. Be on the lookout for the
local manger scenes, they are wonderful. I saw one made completely out
of dried pasta that was amazing. Enjoy!
Dee <email>
Norfolk, va USA 08/06/98
Having spent Christmas 1996 in Bavaria, I'm convinced that is where it was "invented". Driving through the villages with little lights threaded through snow-covered trees in the gardens is pure magic. As others have mentioned, the Christkindlmarkts are special with their aromas of gluhwein, sausages, and chocolate-covered warm nuts.
An experience not to miss is the Christmas Eve midnight mass. I didn't
understand much, but then who needs to? "Silent Night" sounds the same
in any language. The baroque church of Flintsbach should have been on
the tourist route. It was spectacular.
Julian <email>
Gordon's Bay, Cape Town, South Africa 07/09/98
Try the Skane region of Sweden at Christmas time. Airfare was low and, with
SAS, included the hovercraft from Copenhagen. My local friends took me to
a Julbord (Christmas smorgasbord) in a lovely restored spa/hotel. We took
in a St. Lucia crowning in the town square of Hasselholm and an advent concert
(with several songs in English) at the cathedral. The Brio toy museum in
Osby had a Santa's workshop and wonderfully low prices. Prices in general
were reasonable and I did a lot of Christmas shopping. Weather damp -- about
40 degrees -- and I never saw the Swedish sun in 7 days! It seemed only
the castles for which this area is renowned were not open this time of year.
<email>
USA 06/04/98
We've made seven Christmas trips to Germany, Switzerland and Austria.
The markets are the best things around -- especially if you catch any of
the bands or choirs -- but don't expect to find any bargains. Ornaments,
nutcrackers, etc. are the same price as in the States, if not higher. The
atmosphere of the markets is what you go for, not bargain prices. Heidelberg,
Miltenburg, Augsburg, Salzburg and Wurzburg are our favorite markets .
<email>
USA 06/02/98
The best place for New Year's in Europe is Hogmanay in Edinburgh, Scotland
-- a huge street party with a great atmosphere and midnight fireworks over
Edinburgh castle that are just magic! It can get a wee bit cool, but there's
nothing else like it. In 1997, 150,000 people participated!
Lee-Anne
Melbourne, Australia 05/22/98
I have been to London the week between Christmas and New Year's several
times. The weather can be cold, but it's not a bad time to visit--and it's
certainly not as busy as in summer. On New Year's Eve many people go to
Trafalgar Square, although recently the authorities have been discouraging
it and because of heavy drinking and fights breaking out. Last year I just
found a pub and spent the evening there. Theatres all have performances
on New Year's Eve, too. On New Year's Day, there's a big parade through
the streets of Westminster. Most of the participants are American high school
bands and marching units. Although the big sales don't start until after
New Year's, the stores are all crowded, with Harrods nearly impossible to
get into.
Mike Kaul <email>
USA 05/11/98
The Christkindlmarkts in Germany, particularly in Nurnberg and Heidelberg,
and in Strasbourg, France, are wonderful. They usually run from the end
of November to Christmas. Visiting more than a couple will get tiresome,
though, as they all feature the same things: trees, ornaments, apple fritters,
glog, clothing, and handicrafts.
<email>
USA 05/11/98