Rick Steves' Europe: More Feedback on Rick Steves' Italy 2002

More Feedback on Rick Steves' Italy 2002

Please share any ways we can improve or fix this guidebook. Are there recommendations in this book that disappointed you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?

(Please note: Feedback on specific hotels, costs, etc. is deleted yearly after Rick uses it to update his guidebook. However, general, timeless recommendations are left here online.)

Read more about this book.

La Pergola in Orvieto not a good deal
We ate at the La Pergola restuarant in Orvieto today, and while the food was good.. you will pay way too much for small portions.
Angela
Naples, Italy 12/28/02

Amalfi Coast
Positano is a great place to visit in October. We had only one morning with light rain the week we were there. A few of the "tourist" ristorantes were closed, which did not bother us one bit. We tend to eat where the locals eat. The places we enjoyed were La Fenice, La Cambusa and Ristorante da Vicenzo. The Delikatessen located on the walk down to the beach will make nice panini at a great price for lunch. Ristorante Da Constantino is located high above Positano in the village of Montepertuso. This Ristorante has a van service that comes to your hotel and picks you up and returns you after the meal. This is a great dining experience, with a great view of the lights of Positano at night. This was our favorite ristorante in Positano.

The Amalfi Coast was beautiful. It is a lot less crowded than in the high season, although some road maintenance had begun for the winter. We used the local SITA bus for our travels to Sorrento, Amalfi, Ravello and Vietri sul Mari. In Amalfi we had lunch at 2 nice places, Il Tari and Il Teatro. Both places were great. Ravello is a must if you get to this area, with Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone being very beautiful places to visit. We went to Vietri sul Mare to visit the ceramic factory. We found the prices better in Positano, with virtually the same selection. Overall we had a great stay on the Amalfi Coast.
Bruce
Covington, La. USA 12/19/02

Rome — Hotel Spring House
Hotel Spring House was very helpful in canceling a reservation after the refund deadline. Unfortunately I wasn't able to make it to the hotel due to a transit strike. After I told them I would post a note on this site saying how helpful they were, they cancelled the charge without any penalty or fee.
DFessell
Akron, OH USA 12/18/02

Manarola, Italy
We stayed at Casa Capellini in Manarola. Our room was the 'alta camera' or top floor apartment. While the view is spectacular, the accommodations are average at best. Granted it was only 54 euros per night, but the apartment was actually a rigged kitchen with a counter that had to double as a luggage rack, a bedroom that barely fit the bed, and a bathroom so small your knees hit the wall if you tried to sit on the toilet. The proprietor was curt and quite rude. I would recommend this place but only in a dire pinch.
C. Santangelo
New Orleans, LA USA 12/18/02

Malpensa Express Train discount
The express train ticket female ticket agent at the Cadorna Station in Milan refused to give the two of us a discount on the Express train to the Malpensa Airport in September 2002. We showed her our Alitalia ticket but she denied us the discount mentioned in your bood, Rick Steve's ITALY 2002.
A. Lukosky
Naples, FL USA 12/16/02

Italy Trip
We just recently got back from our first trip to Italy, two weeks (11/5 to 11/21) following Rick's recommended itinerary; Venice, Florence, Cinque Terre, Siena, Orvieto, and Rome. Flew into Milan, took the bus to the train station and bought our train tickets at Pasaggi Travel Agency for our trip to Venice and on to Florence. Should have tried to fly directly to Venice, but the train trip was a good start for us beginners.

Hotel in Venice was great and highly recommended; Locanda Al Gambero, just off of San Marco's Square, newly remodeled, and non-smoking. No elevator however, but worth the walk up.

In Florence stayed at Hotel Basilea which is getting a little tired. Would recommend looking elsewhere, somewhere in the middle of the action. While in Florence bought our train tickets to Cinque Terre and on to Siena at American Express Travel Service. This was another good recommendation.

After a total of seven nights in Venice and Florence, Vernazza was just what these tired travelers needed: very quiet. Stayed in one of Franca Maria's rooms looking out on the plaza. It rained the day we got there, so we slept all afternoon. The next day we did the towns and had a wonderful lunch in Manarola at Il Porticciolo.

Our four train trip to Siena was uneventful (most of the way) and we stayed at Alma Domus which is just as advertised; neat, clean, with great views of the Duomo. We loved Siena and should have stayed another day.

Took the train to Orvieto but, since it was Saturday, there was a bus from Siena to Chiui which turned out to be great. Clean bus, lots of room and great scenery. Next time would consider taking bus trips on the shorter routes. Orvieto is another town we could have spent some more time in. Hotel Corso was very nice and easy to get to.

In Rome we stayed at Hotel Spring House near the Vatican, very nice ending to our trip, and included a free trip to the airport. We used the metro and had no difficulties. While in Rome DO NOT miss the Borghese Gallery and Rick's tour of the Vatican Museum. Mondays are VERY busy and would suggest other days. Another event which should not be missed is the Pope's Wednesday morning appearance. An 1 ½ hour event.

Overall this turned out to be a very good first trip to Italy. It may have even better had we gone in October as lots of the smaller towns were really starting to close up for the winter.

PLUSES - Locanda Al Gambero in Venice, using American Express offices to buy train tickets.

MINUSES - Hotel Basilea in Florence, Air France's scheduled 1 hour layovers in Paris, missed our flights both going to and leaving Italy.
Susan and Jim
Los Altos, CA USA 12/11/02

Better Maps
Regarding the guide books, I think the maps should be more clear. I am referring specifically to the map indicating the route from Termini to the Hotel Aberdeen. Also I don't recall if there is mention on the necessity to have train tickets stamped or validated prior to boarding. A friend of mine was fined something like 55 euros for not having it stamped.
George Knuepfel
San Francisco, CA USA 12/11/02

Rome
The Rome guidebook was extremely helpful in planning and executing our trip in November 2002. We stayed in a rental studio apartment through Greatrentals.com at Piazza Farnese and Campo di Fiori (excellent). Very central location. Rick was right on with most everything — i.e. Pompeii was a great day trip (easy to get to via the train system), the Vatican and his descriptions of the Sistine Chapel were wonderful, Borghese Gallery, the Forum, Capital and Palatine Hills, the Colosseum, etc. He really made old Rome come to life for us. Two criticisms: 1. The maps leave a lot to be desired — please get computerized map drawing software (for all books). 2. Naples was the worst place I have ever been — crowded, TONS of street vendors, crazy drivers, loud, etc. We searched for 2 hours for the "home of pizza" but finally gave up. Rome was a welcome relief to return to. Its a really great city! Lots of nightlife and great food, wonderfully historic sights. Caio.
Ashley Kirkland
Oldsmar, FL USA 12/10/02

Cinque Terre Vacation Rentals
If staying in Cinque Terre you must check out www.cinqueterreproperties.com! They rent apartments with a 2-night minimum stay to vacationers for less than a hotel room. The service of the owner, Federico, is fabulous. Federico is a local and know really well the area and can help you with the language barrier. He offers many services with its apartments and has over 15 to choose from, all of which have full kitchens, bathroom, living rooms, dining rooms, some with gardens, etc. It's really a bargain for couples and families alike and he does an excellent job at making everything simple and wonderful. He even pick you up and bring you to the apartment, prices are all-inclusive; there are no hidden fees or costs. I highly recommend Cinque Terre Properties! www.cinqueterreproperties.com or info@cinqueterreproperties.com is how he can be reached.
Donald Russo
Santa Monica, Ca USA 11/30/02

Italy — Rome North to Piedmonte
My husband and I just returned from two weeks in Italy (11/8 to 11/23). We used Rick's book as aguideline (along with Eyewitness Guide)and found most recommendations to be comfortable and affordable. Albergo Barbara in Vernazza was great at $45/night with a small view of the sea (attic room with average size window). A hotel with that view in the US would have easily doubled the price even with a shared bath!I loved Vernazza and since it was after "tourist" season, I found it charming, relaxing, and the people to be very helpful and kind. The cats are GREAT! I cried when we left. I think November is a great time to do the Cinque Terre. Il Capitano was great for dinner and the owner is friendly and talkative. Siena was another favorite of mine. Piazza del Campo was impressive. Our hotel was one recommended in Rick's book. Albergo Bernini was clean and comfortable, but if you stay there, don't stay in Room #4. It overlooks a tiny restaurant downstairs which closes early only to re-open to friends of the owners(?). The noise echoes up through the narrow street and into the window. And these people can party...two nights until 3AM. In Rome, Hotel Oceania was clean and comfortable with good breakfast. Thanks, Rick, for being our unofficial tour-guide of Italy. Why don't you include Piedmonte in your Italy book?
Jules
Eden Prairie, MN USA 11/29/02

Positano
My wife and I stayed at La Tavolozza, recommended in Rick's Italy 2002 guidebook. We stayed there for one week and have nothing but praise for Celeste' and her staff. The entire place is spotless and it was the most tranquil place we stayed in Italy. The views from the balcony we had were outstanding. I highly recommend La Tavolozza.
Bruce Corkern
Covington, La. USA 11/26/02

palermo hotel
just came back from 10days in Sicily. Palermo has many hotels to offer that are safe and efficient for around 100 euros..i would highly reccomend the hotel Joli..walking distance from the piazza castelnuovo which has direct bus service to the airport..centrally located and close to auto europa if you should decide to rent a car, pick it up in the city and save the 12% added airport tax, no extra charge to drop the car at the airport.
richard laplaca
san francisco, ca USA 11/23/02

Cinque Terre
There is no luggage storage in La Spezia station. The staff at the station states that there is a storage at "Cinque Terre" without guaranteeing which town will have it. We got creative and asked the giftshop/internet shop just outside the station exit {go right as ou exit} if we can leave it in the corner of their store. They won't guarantee security, but we thought nobody would want our dirty underwear. Take your valuables and enjoy this amazing set of towns.
S Rhee
Toronto, ON canada 11/16/02

Getting Around in Siena
For travel between Locanda Bernini, Alma Domus, or Hotel Chiusarelli and the train station, the Number #3, #9, and #10 yellow busses stop in Piazza San Domenico. Quick and convenient.
Dudley McFadden
Sunnyvale, CA USA 11/14/02

recommended restaurants
Locanda Garibaldi in Siena-poor food (tough tasteless veal and burned dry chicken). Recommend revisiting before adding to next book edition.
Donna Weber
Fort Wayne, In USA 11/14/02

A tip for transportation to and from Rome airport. We pick up a brochure at the TI in the train station for Airport Shuttle 06 42 01 45 07 phone and easily made a reservation for two from downtown Roma to the airport for two of us with one bag for $37.05. The taxi fare from our hotel was &75 plus tip. The van arrived on time and we had a pleasant before dawn drive through still lit city to airport.
Rochelle Becker
Grover Beach, Ca USA 11/12/02

Rick Steves Disciples in Italy
Just back from three weeks in Italy, we wish to post a testimonial to the Rick Steves ETBD philosophy. In Rome we met an Italian navy pilot who had trained in the United States, and who proudly pointed out that his little daughter was "an American," having been born in Cherry Point, NC. He responded very cautiously to my questions about his opinions of our administration and its foreign policy, but we were able to convey the message that all Americans are not reckless and belligerent.

Everywhere we encountered the influence of Rick Steves. In Civita de Bagnoregio, as the book suggested, we wandered down a pathway to a lovely garden, where "Maria may show you her garden, accepting a euro or two." We saw this woman, and I said, "Maria?" She said, "Si. Rick Steves, eh?" In Vernazza on the Cinque Terre, we had dinner at Taverna Capitano. I mentioned to our host, Giovanni ("Call me John."), that we chose his place because of the Rick Steves guidebook. "Oh, Rick is a friend of mine. I've been to Seattle many times when I was a chef on the Princess cruises." Then people at all the nearby tables chimed in that they, too, had come on Rick Steves's recommendation. One even took our picture with everyone holding a copy.
Roger and Pat Loschen
Lake Forest Park, WA USA 11/10/02

Oct. trip to Italy and places to stay
We were in Italy the first two weeks of Oct. Sooo much better than it was in August when I was there four years ago. Just lovely weather. We drove in spite of all the warnings not to. The warnings have merit. But we wanted to explore. If you do drive, get a small car; a big one is just too hard to navigate in the villages. The Rick Steves' Italy 2002, this website and the internet were invaluable in planning the trip. Rick's best tip was Edi's rooms in Riomaggiore. We stayed in 45 Via Colombo. The entry was scary (all peeling paint and crumbling concrete and dark stairway) but the stairs got much better the higher we went and our fifth floor "room" consisted of a sitting room with TV, a king-size bedroom a large two-room bath with kitchen space and, best of all, a private balcony overlooking the sea and the fishermen's little boats. All clean and comfortable and only $52! We loved it and I want to go back. Also liked very much dinner at La Lanterna.

We found a good deal on a hotel in Rome: Tourist House, 211 Via Cavour, touristhouse@rome4u.com. This is a 7-room B&B on the fifth floor, again, but this time with an antique but efficient elevator. The rooms with private bath are simple, clean, conveniently located near the forum and across the street from the Metro, quiet and only $82 for a double! Lucca, the owner, was very helpful arranging an inexpensive ($35) shuttle to the airport. For luxury, Hotel Tuder in Todi can't be beat at $85.
Carolyn Laceky
Helena, MT USA 11/07/02

Italy Favorites
Italy favorites from our month long trip: Paestum...amazing Greek temples. Stayed at Seliano Agriturismo and found it to be one of the best places we stayed in Italy. Outstanding food, be sure to go half board. Friendly, nice accomodations, with a quiet, farm atmosphere. Visit their other farm with the water buffalo for a new experience. They now take credit cards.
Sorrento: We stayed at Il Nido, not in Rick's book. Small rooms but the dinner view from the terrace at sunset is unbeatable. Good food too. Their free shuttle makes staying 5 km from the town center easy. Love that Limoncello!
Cinque Terre: Best hike: Take the trail from Levanto to Monterosso. Much of it is shaded with spectacular views of the sea. Few hikers were on this trail! Directions to it are listed under the Levanto information in Rick's book.
Castelrotto/Kastelruth: Lots of great places to stay and easy to book with their information board by the bus stop. This board lists accomodations including photos and has a video screen that will show costs and availability of these places. There is also a phone attached for placing the reservation. Very handy! We stayed in Albergo Torre and loved it. Try Cafe/Restaurant Bachler for reasonably priced great Italian and German food. Try the Bachler Speisfein Garniertfur 2 Personen. It is a huge platter filled with various vegetables and schnitzels...enough for 4 people. Delicious!
Buses: It was unseasonably hot during out trip and we found 1st class train travel often hot. The buses we took between cities were always confortable, cool & reliable. A nice respite!
Joan
Las Vegas, NV USA 11/03/02

Cinque Terre
We spent Oct 24-26 in Riomaggiore. Rick's book came in very handy, but I think you should probably allow more time for the hikes. There was no way I could complete the hike from the Monterosso train station to Veranzza in 2 hours. We didn't complete all the hikes as we had some rain. Take the detour and don't go through the tunnel in Monterosso. Go up and over to visit the church and cemetary at the top of the hill: beautiful. The trail from Monterosso to Vernazza is great, with a variety of scenery. I wouldn't call it dangerous, but watch your step. The Corniglia to Manarola walk is pretty much a bore except when you are drawing close to Manarola (don't skip the playground/castle area at the top of the trail, it is pretty up there). The Via del'Amore was neat and probably shouldn't be missed because it takes so little time to do.

We showed up without a reservation and booked an apartment through Edi's. It was nice, clean, and spacious, and was right down in the harbor for 55E/night. Ate at La Lampara one night: cost about 40E for antipasti and first plate and wine for 2. It was a good meal. Hands down, though, the best meal was at La Lanterna in the harbor at Riomaggiore. It isn't cheap (76E plus service for anitpasti, 2 primi's, 1 secondi, and 1 dessert), but it was the best meal and the warmest, most friendly service we had in Italy.

The best gelato we had in Italy was in Vernazza...can't remember the name of the place, but it was on the main street in Vernazza just where the trail from Monterosso meets it.

I have to admit that the area is loaded with tourists (esp. French and German), but it was probably the best part of our trip. A wonderful relaxing interlude before going home after pounding the pavement in Florence and Rome. Didn't want to leave.
Dan
Avon, CT USA 11/01/02

Trip to Italy/Lodging in Milan
My girlfriend and I just got back from 10 days in Italy and I would like to add some comments about the trip and the use of Rick Steve's books. We visited Rome, Florence, and the Cinque Terre. Flew in to Rome and out of Milan. I'll probably put up several notes on different parts of the trip when I get my thoughts in order.

First, however, I would like to make a suggestion for lodgings in Milan if you are just passing through (to or from Malpensa airport). A recommendation was posted for the Hotel Ristorante Cervo in Milan (www.hotelcervo.it). I would like to add a strong second to that recommendation. 83 Euro per night for a double. It is a clean, modern, friendly motel and is 3 minutes from Terminal 1 at Malpensa. Takeoff and landing noises were a bit loud...but we were so wiped out we didn't even notice. Made the reservations through emails. Only snag...they wouldn't take my Euro travellers checks.

If you come in to Milan by train, you can catch the Malpensa shuttle to the airport for 4.50 Euro each then call the hotel shuttle bus from the terminal for a prompt pickup (3 Euro pp for the shuttle....but the taxis want 20 Euro for a 3 minute trip). Their restaurant is closed on the weekends (too, bad...we were told the food was great), so we made do with a really good meal at the tavalo calda at the airport of all places (upstairs in terminal 1 at Malpensa...bit expensive, but good). By the way, they charge .60 Euro to use the restrooms in Central Station in Milan....use the WC on the train.
Dan
Avon, CT USA 10/30/02

Assisi restaurant
Best meal we had in Italy Gourmet quality, reasonable prices Friendly service Locanda Podesta in Assisi
Georgino
Oregon city, OR USA 10/29/02

Italian Holiday
Just returned from Rome, Florence and Venice. Stayed near Spanish Steps, great loation...but we thought area around Trevi Fountain was good too. Two trattorias, new one near Pantheon, "Due Colonne" Via del Seminario, 122, (06-67-81-449), very reasonable ate lunch there and dinner one night, (believe it says open all day). A truly local place "Gino" near Piazza del Parlamento, Chiuso La Domenica 06-6873434. Family business, nephew spoke enough English, very busy reservations recommended. Great veal and atmosphere. We didn't have any problems with pickpockets, everyone was real friendly. In Florene stayed a the Il Guelfo Bianco, about two minutes from the Accademia, quiet, attractive hotel, great staff, highly recommended. Had them book reservation to Accademia ahead of time. Made our train reservations ahead of time from states, 1st class non-smoking, stamp them at the binario, although going to Florence not a conductor in sight! The Santa Croce Leather School was recommended to shop, it is hard to find and very pricey, had better luck in the outdoor kiosks, great values, pay cash. In Venice stayed at Hotel Ala, perfect location, wonderful breakfast buffet. Venice was breathtaking, very crowded with Americans. If you sit at the outside cafe, "The Lavena" to be exact and listen to the orchestra at St. Marks Square, we had four cups of coffee and sat there for 2.5 hours and it cost 44euros!!! You can stand and listen for free, but it was fun.
Linda
Cambridge, MA USA 10/29/02

McVernazza
My family just returned from a great trip to Italy, and I would like to thank Rick and the rest of you for some great ideas and tips. The one negative comment I have is about The Cinque Terra, and Vernazza in particular. It is certainly a very beautiful place, but it is now so overrun with a clone army of upper-middle-class, expensive-collapsable-aluminum-walking-stick toting, guidebook clutching, sauce-on-the-side, American tourists that a visit there is like vacationing in Eddie Bower(I include myself as part of the problem). I hope the residents enjoy the money, because they have obviously lost so much in the willing or unwilling prostitution of their town. After hearing the stories of friends who visited over a decade ago, I wish I could have seen it before Rick's books. We did find some great towns in other parts of Italy, but I'm not telling where! Please Rick, leave some gems unpublished!
Jeff
Shoreline, WA USA 10/29/02

Italy Trip
This was my first time to Italy. We traveled to Rome, Siena, Florence, Pisa, Cinque Terre, and Venice.

Rome-Stayed in Hotel Oceania and Residence Adler. They were clean, comfortable, safe (next to police station and embassies), and conveniently close to the main train station. Had a fabulous lunch at Ristorante Alla Rampa (near Spanish Steps). Borghese Gallery (definitely need reservations beforehand) was my favorite museum. Gelateria della Palma, good gelato and very close to the Pantheon.

Siena-Wonderful and restful town to get away from the noise and pollution of Rome. Worth staying at least one night to enjoy a refreshing morning and evening in Tuscany. We stayed at Alma Domus. It was only 70 euro per night for a triple. Great view from our balcony and we had no trouble meeting the 11:30 curfew. BEST tiramisu at Trattoria La Tellina and had a tasty, inexpensive meal at Osteria Nonna Gina (bring your Italian dictionary though). Siena's Duomo was the most elaborate and beautiful church in Italy. Climb to the top of Cathedral Museum to enjoy the great panoramic view and sit, enjoy, and relax at the brick piazza called Il Campo.

Florence-The three of us agreed that the best hotel from our trip was Residence Bellevue (email: info@residencebellevue.it, phone: 011 39 055 2608932). The room was big, comfortable beds, quiet, and it had a clean and modern bathroom. Senior Antonio was very kind and helpful. Restaurant Leonardo: Cheapest dinner we had during the trip and pretty tasty too.

Pisa-The tourist trap of Italy. Best to train over, enjoy the Leaning Tower, and make a quick escape.

Cinque Terre-We stayed at Punta Mesco in Monterosso. The modern room was small but clean. Nice buffet breakfast after a week of rolls with butter/jam and a cup of coffee. We enjoyed and endured the hikes between the towns. Also purchase the one day Cinque Terre card. It allows access to all the hiking trails in the area as well as the use of the trains and buses within the five towns. The BEST meal was at Trattoria Billy in Manarola. Walk up the main street past the church and head toward the steps toward your right (there'll be a sign ahead once you pass the church). We went back the next night. Billy has two floors so don't worry if the top floor is packed. Just continue down the steps. Stop by Vernazza for lunch. Had the best pesto pizza at the bakery across from the pharmacy.

Venice-Stayed at Albergo Doni and this was our least favorite hotel in terms of comfort and price. The beds were soft (could feel the springs) and the walls were so thin you can hear people walking past in the hallway. We had a very good meal at Osteria al Diavolo e L'Aquasanta. The soups were tasty. Go early since it fills up fast. We visited Murano and had fun shopping at the glass shops. Be sure to bargain if you're buying any big glass item (like half a dozen wine glasses) or more than two small purchases at once. We purchased a three day boat pass that allowed us unlimited rides within Venice. Although it was about 19 euro per person, the ride alone to Murano was over 9 euros and ride from train station to our hotel was 4 euros.

Finally, remember to stamp all tickets (train, bus, boat) at the yellow machines beside all stops. You only need to do this once for an all day or three day pass. Also, if you're going to travel just within Italy, it's cheaper to buy all train passes at a travel agency once you arrived there. I used one approved by the ASTA and it printed out my non-smoking with reserved seats right there. The commission it charged was small. If possible make reservations for all seats. Insist upon it even if the travel agent may think it is unneccessary. They're not the ones who have to put up their luggage in the overhead compartments and have to drag it away because someone else reserved those seats you're sitting on. I also just brought my bank checkcard and withdrew money from the ATMs whenever I needed cash. My bank only charged $1.50 fee and I had the best exchange rate at that time.
Laini
San Francisco, CA USA 10/27/02

Re: Laundry in Rome
Rick mentions Bolle Blu, another self-service laundromat near Termini, in his Rome 2002 book (p. 202), but the address should be Via Principe Amedeo 70. Since this forum is devoted to Italy in general, I've posted my (positive) comments about Bolle Blu in the Rome forum at http://www.ricksteves.com/graffiti/graffiti99.html .
Jeannie
San Mateo, CA USA 10/26/02

Milan Experience
Our 2 short days in Milan were both enjoyable and unpleasant at the same time. First of all, we did not listen to Rick (stupid us!!) and booked a hotel in the Brera district recommended by another guide book. The hotel/albergo is in a residential neighborhood and quite interesting but for the money we paid, it was a total rip off! Hotel service was below standard and unsatisfactory. Anyway, we have learnt our lessons and will stick with Rick's recommendations next time. The Cathedral is indeed one of the most beautiful we have ever seen. Unfortunately, we couldn't see the church at its full glory as the whole front was being cleaned the time we visited. We ran into a Trattoria near the train station not mentioned by Rick which served excellent meals. I forgot the name of the place, but it is on Via Sammaritini (the first street that parallels the train station as you exit on the right). The area is a little seedy but you will see the Chinese run place because it is packed with locals. They served pizzas for around 4 Euros and my husband's spaghetti with lobster was only 9 Euros! We stuffed ourselves and the bill was around 20 Euros. It is not the most fancy place but they do serve up cheap and tasty food. Bring your Italian phrase book with you if you go because the waitress speaks very little English.
MG
Dallas, TX USA 10/26/02

Laundry in Rome
Hello from Rome! Tip for travelers to Rome: It was dificult to find a self-service laundraumat near our hotel near Piazza Navona. Rick's book suggested one near Termini. It is a fantastic place run by a family that also owns an Indian Food Restaurant. They gave us a great deal on both the laundry and lunch. The food was excellent (a great break from the pizza and pasta we have been eating for days) The price for a complete meal was eu 5, wash & dry eu 10. The address to the laundry is via milazzo 20/b. More reviews later when we get back. Ciao
Mark
Seattle, WA USA 10/26/02

16 night in Northern Italy
We just returned and loved it, and have a few comments. Lake Como was beautiful and I would recommend the ALbergo Milano for location, hosts, breakfast, and fabulous views. About the Cinque Terre, we had planned to stay in Vernazza, but did not. We stayed in Levanto at the Villa Margherita after reading about it on the Graffiti Wall. We loved the Villa Margherita and Levanto. I would definitely stay in Levanto again and hated to leave there. You can visit all of the Cinque Terre and Portofino right from there, but have a better beach, its quieter, larger town, great restaurants, more of a local flavor. The walk from Levanto to Monterosso, while not the easiest, is one of the best and most beautiful. We used it because of a one day train strike and found it to be serendipitous. Venice, while it rained the whole time we were there was magical. We can't wait to return.
D Moore
Pittsburgh, PA USA 10/25/02

Italy
The reason you have to pay to get in the Duomo in Siena is because from August 28th to October 28th they have the graffito floor uncovered. It is only uncovered two months out of the year. I was there earlier in October and felt very lucky to have accidently planned my trip to occur during the only two months of the year that the floor can be viewed.
Sherry
USA 10/25/02

lake como and siena are gems
Just returned home from a two week tour of Italy and Ricks book made it most memorable. First stop, Lake Como from October 10th-12th, 2002. Laura at the Hotel Olivedo can be difficult as she runs both the hotel and restaurant, but usually pleasant. Her mattresses are indeed lumpy as Rick suggests. She brought me a bed board. Her set menus are limited in food really, offering a soup or salad, not both. Her first course is the best of the meal. Her raviolis and eggplant parmigana are to die for.The charm of the place and the views are not to be missed. Ideally located, I woke up each morning to the horns of the ferries. What kodak moments from my balcony!! Buy a round-trip train ticket in Milan for Varenna, but book the rest of your trip at the travel agency in Varenna. Helpful Luana at I Viaggi del Tivano next to Albergo Beretta made all bookings and reservations. I recommend this approach highly as it is a relaxing atmosphere without the turmoil of train stations. She recommended point-to-point and my entire trip was 110euros per person!! Unbelievable. Took ferries around the lake (buy combo pass — cheaper), to bellagio and menaggio. I especially loved Bellagio. I must have just missed Liza Minnelli with her new hubby as her picture was in the window of a shop. The shop keeper said she was just there. After a ferry ride to Menaggio, I took a bus ride to Lugano, Switzerland and took a tram to the top of a mountain. What views!! Rick should mention how close this is from Lake Como. Every other person was carrying Ricks book.Do what Rick says and chat with locals on trains. What a wonderful experience. Be an extrovert!! Next, train to Florence (see Florence section) and then to Siena. I stayed in Siena for one night at Albergo Cannon D'oro. The place is charming and right in the old town just a few blocks from the campo and duomo. Rick is incorrect about the duomo. They now charge 5euros. The chapel itself is free but it is hard to notice that. If you want a freebee, pretend or really say you are here to pray. They have to let you in. To the right of the entry to the Duomo is the chapel. Free entry but the five euros for the main entry is worth it. The campo was lively. Alot of kids though. Serious suggestion for travel: If going to Rome from Siena as I did, take a bus to Chuisi train station about a hour away. The bus is comfortable and the views are killer. This route takes you through the heart of Tuscany and the hilltowns. It is among the highlights of my trip. Difficult to take pictures of this from a moving bus. A camcorder would have been better in this situation. Visit the rooftop of Albergo Bernini if you cannot stay there. Rick was right. the view is the best in Siena, directly of the Duomo in the distance. Bring a camera. The owner was especially nice. In fact, I visited several hotels Rick recommended if I could not stay there for the next time. Next onto Rome (see rome section) and then Venice (see Venice section).
mitchell grant
coconut creek, fl USA 10/25/02

Italy 2002
My wife and I spent nearly 3 weeks in Italy. We used your book Italy 2002 as a reference and found it very helpful. We visted Rome (5 nights — friend's place), Siena (3 nights — Alma Domus) via Pisa, Riomaggiore (3 nights — Edi's rooms), Florence (1 night — Hotel Enza), Venice (3 nights — Hotel Marin) and Naples (1 night — Hotel Ginerva). Would recommend all these hotels except for Hotel Ginerva which we suggest people avoid. Bruno was certainly not cheerful nor helpful and the room had suspect linen and mouldy shower. He stored our bags on arrival in the morning but not so on the day we checked out — this was the only hotel not willing to do so. In fact, as stated in your book, avoiding Naples is recommended.

We travelled between cities by train and used the kilometric ticket plus extra tickets, all first class. I had previously looked up the train times on the FS web site that we wanted and used this as a reference when booking. This made it a lot easier for the travel agent. We had some trouble finding a travel agent in Rome that had the kilometric ticket in stock and was willing to help and make these bookings. For those who are interested these are the distances between cities: Rome to Siena — 254km, Siena to Pisa — 111km, Pisa to La Spezia — 76km, La Spezia to Florence — 157km, Florence to Venice — 257km, Venice to Naples — 787km & Naples to Rome — 215km. When the travel agent filled out the kilometric ticket we were slightly over the 3000km. This was no problem, it just meant that we paid a few Euros extra for the extra kms. The whole lot, kilometric, booking fees, supplements and extra tickets, including Venice to Naples sleeper cost E401.

Most of the IC trains were running between 10 and 35 minutes late. This meant that we risked missing connecting trains (that were on time!), but only missed one. We caught the night train between Venice and Naples in a cuccetta. This room could be set up for between 2 and 3 bunks with wash basin and was cosy and quite confortable. This cost E95.02 for both of us. Having booked seats on IC (bookings are not possible on IR or R trains), was in reality not always necessary but did guarantee us window seats in non smoking compartments.

The ticket inspectors reaction seemed bamboozled by the combination of bookings and kilometric tickets, but clicked them just the same. Only one ticket inspector on an R train stated that I should have the kilometric ticket stamped at the station's ticket office — the others did not worry. Buying the timetable hard copy was also useful. All the stations had an arrivals and departures chart, so you could look up your train and platform it departs from.

We found that most of the prices quoted for admission to museums, attractions, etc in the book were about 20% low and all wanted cash. We bought weekly tickets in Rome and 3 day tickets in Venice for public transport and found these to be good value for getting around. Only once was our ticket inpsected in Rome, but in Venice on a Monday we had our tickets inspected about 4 times!

Pisa was a real tourist trap. The internet pre-booked tickets for the Leaning Tower saved a 2 hour wait.
Peter Ratten
Melbourne, Victoria Australia 10/23/02

Roma — Sorrento
Just returned from a week in Rome and a week in Sorrento. Rome comments have been added in that section. Took the Eurostar 1st class from Rome to Napoli and it was very good. If you arrive in Napoli and have to go down the coast, I recommend taking the ferry from Napoli's Beverello Port to Sorrento or Amalfi (every two hours — 6.75 Euro to Sorrento) to avoid the absurdly expensive cab ride or the Circumvesuviana adventure. As for Sorrento — spectacular setting for a tourist trap. We were a bit disappointed with the town, but the people were really nice and everything is geared toward the English speaking tourist (if that appeals to you). We stayed at the Hotel Minerva (in your book), despite almost being scared off by the comments in this column. It was really just fine. Our room had a commanding view of the town, the bay, and Vesuvius — it steals your breath the first time you open the shutters. The room was clean, the bathroom great, and the staff was frendly. Davide Gelato was great. Found a good day-trip tour agent — Staiano Viaggi, Via Capo, 19, just down the hill from Hotel Minerva and La Tonnarella. We took the guided day trip to Pompeii/Vesuvius — great trip and great guide.

La Conca Snack Bar, at Via Capo, 10, has much better Cappuccino than the Hotel and opens at 8. Ate at Minervetta restaurant (in the book), and it was fine. Also ate at Tonnarella next door and wasn't impressed (also more expensive). Pizzeria da Gigino on Via Degli Archi was good. If you go down the coast take the blue SITA bus from Sorrento to Amalfi — it will be the ride of your life. SIT ON THE RIGHT SIDE or you won't see anything, as the aisle fills with standing locals. Take the boat back to Sorrento from Amalfi and see it another way.
Eric
Oakland, CA USA 10/22/02

Sorrento/Amalfi/Capri: 10/02
My wife and I are back from a wonderful week in the Bay of Naples area (October weather perfect, season winding down, but no shortage of tourists).

1) Rick's THEFT ALERT for the Naples Circumvesuviana had us concerned so we decided to take the train on to Salerno instead. This turned out to be a great decision as the SITA bus ride to Amalfi (and beyond) is spectacular. Salerno has frequent boat connections to Amalfi/Positano during the summer season and hourly bus connections throughout the year. (We later went through the Naples Circumvesuviana station twice and felt no concern for safety)

2) AMALFI: We found the town a nice place to stay overnight and convenient for visiting expensive RAVELLO (the walk to the lovely Villa Cimbrone gardens offers wonderful views and you will pass perhaps the best hotel value on the Amalfie coast-Pensione Villa Amore. Back in Amalfie, a visit to the Cappuccini Convento hotel terrace will yield one of the most famous and spectacular views in the area.

3) SORRENTO: we stayed at the Hotel Loreley, great location, depressing rooms. It was probably nice 100 years ago but it appears no maintenance of any kind. It is popular and many quests appeared fully satisfied but I'd choose another hotel. Those on via Capo seem a much better value having the same great bay views.

4) CAPRI: some spectacular views can be had as follows. In Anacapri, the path to Villa San Michele continues on to offer a superb view of the town of Capri and the entire Bay of Naples. If you continue on this path, it becomes an almost verticle ancient stairway cut into the side of the mountain leading back to Marina Grande. If you suffer from vertigo, don't even consider going beyond the villa overlook. In Capri town, we followed an easy path to the Punta del Cannone overlook; marvelous. Also, the Gardens of Augustus are lovely and not to be missed.
Ronald Wickham
Foster City, CA USA 10/22/02

Hotel La Tonnarella in Sorrento
We visited Sorrento this trip and it was heavenly. We stayed at the recommended Hotel La Tonnarella and it could not have been any better. Rick, this hotel is no longer a "well-worn Sorrentine villa" as it had undergone extensive rennovation from head to toe. We splurged and reserved a room with a private seaview terrace. It was worth every penny! The view was just breathtaking and the room was spacious. You can just sit back and relax. The hotel restaurant served excellent meals with very reasonable prices (I loved the antipasto buffet). We ate there several times! The owner wasn't "uninterested" at all. She even chatted with us while we were there. Although this hotel is just a little away from town center, you will be rewarded with the most memorable view in Sorrento. Good job for the recommendation, Rick!
Sebastian D
Fort Worth, TX USA 10/20/02

Italy
My husband and I just returned from 2 weeks in Italy. We planned the trip entirely with Rick Steves' Italy 2002 book and it was invaluable! We started in Venice and LOVED the Albergo Doni hotel. In fact, that was my husband's favorite hotel... lace curtains, flower boxes, and the sweet sound of gondoliers' singing. We also give a "thumbs up" to Hotel La Scaletta in Florence. The roof terrace offers spectacular views and the breakfast is wonderful. Manfredo was not cooking, but he recommended La Galleria which is nearby and very good. A word of caution in Florence about opening windows. No where in Italy did we see screens. However, Florence was the only place where we were savagely attacked by mosquitos!

Onward to Hotel Italia in Rome, my pick for the best value hotel for your buck! We were housed in the annex across the street. Hotel Italia is clean & comfortable, has a very good breakfast, and is ideally located. You can't beat the price!

Next, we stayed in Sorrento at the Hotel Minerva. We could not believe our eyes when we saw the spectacular view from our very own room's balcony...the Mediterranean Sea and mountains... I will give a word of caution, though. Unless you are looking for a big splurge, I recommend declining the management's offer to take the shuttle with the other new arrivals to the Vela Bianca restaurant. You will be told that "It is soon to appear in Rick's book"...I don't think so! Also, we used cash euros for our whole trip but had some euro traveler's checks that we planned to use at Hotel Minerva. We were told that we had to pay a fee to use them even though they were in euros, so that did seem odd. We took the bus to Positano and the boat back, wonderful. Positano gets my vote for the most beautiful place in the world. Also, I hadn't planned to go to Pompeii, but I'm so glad I did. Even non-history-buffs will love it. I would never tour Europe with a group, because it was so satisfying to be independent. I love the Italian people and their culture. I will recommend Rick's books and videos to everyone.
Linda Casebere
Dayton, OH USA 10/19/02

Italy Trip, October 2002
My husband and I just returned from 3 weeks in Italy and had mostly good experiences all around. I'd like to recommend a few places that I have not seen posted here.
Outside LUCCA (about 15 km) near Alto Pescia and Monte Carlo, we stayed at the TENUTA ALBERETA. The owners, Aldo and Cinzia, gave us the warmest welcome we received anywhere. This is a working farm (vineyard and olive trees, what else?) and the atmostphere was truly relaxing. The breakfast was especially great, including eggs if desired. There are 4 rooms in the main house and then the Mary Suite, which is separate from the house.
In CHIANTI we enjoyed the COLLE SALIVOLPE, which was busy every night. It is 800 m. from Castellina in Chianti, a great central location for exploring this region.
On to Umbria and a special treat staying in a 450-year old converted police station in a 1,000 year-old hill town called STRANCONE, which is near Terni. There isn't much to the town except a very good restaurant next door called Taverna del Mole, a true home-cooking spot (with special-occasion decor), which had a variety of fresh polentas each nght. Sroncone is convenient for driving up to Spoleto or Perugia or over to Gubbio. The owners gave us the idea to go to a town called NORCIA, which is in the mountains of the Nera River in one of Italy's national parks, and then on the Piano Grande, a wide wide flat plain, totally unexpected after so many cliffs and ridges. The hiking, biking, and hang gliding are great around here (as is supposedly the skiing sometimes). We even met a man who was walking from Assisi to Rome. After so many churches, seeing this natural beauty was a real treat! And, Umbria is very different than Tuscany, so it wasn't just more of the same.
Downside of the trip was Ravenna. The mosiacs were awesome, but we found the town boring and confusing. And even worse was driving down the Adriatic toward Rimini. Ugly. October was a great time to visit weather-wise. Cool but sunny and early fall colors in Tuscany and Norcia. Have a wonderful trip!
Jane Springer
San Diego, CA USA 10/19/02

Memorable Loding in Northern Italy
I wanted to share with Rick's readers my most memorable lodging highlights for a just-completed 16 day vacation in northern Italy. All rooms (triples) were booked in advance by two months. If you have any questions, please feel free to email me.

Turin (Torino): Superga pilgrim and hospitality center.
http://www.parrocchie.it/torino/basilicasuperga/hospitality.htm This community of friars and nuns run a meticulously well-cared for institution for next to nothing (25 euros per person per night). The head priest gave us individual rooms at no extra cost. The photos on the site above do not do this place justice. The rooms were ultra clean, the beds very comfortable (those looking for stiff mattresses may need to check with the head priest before reserving), and the bathrooms were the finest we found in our trip. Ask the sacristan for access to the basilica's upper balconies (verboten to the general public), which give you a bird's eye view of the interior from the dome. The Superga basilica is one of the most beautiful sights in the Piedmont region. I do not know whether the priests speak English but they do take dollars in lieu of euros. If you stay here, eat at Bel Deut, a nearby authentic Piedmontese restaurant. Ask Father Marengo for details.

Venice (Venezia): Locanda Novo.
http://www.locandanovo.com/ Less than a five minute walk from the Rialto bridge, Locanda Novo stood out for its incredibly friendly and helpful owner, Ivan, its charmingly decorated rooms, and its wonderful atmosphere. Locanda Novo is relatively new but rapidly gaining a loyal clientele (Rick Steves himself was slated to stay here soon after we left). Ivan, who co-owns LN, is enthusiastically devoted to his new venture and made us feel right at home. The hotel's location is very convenient (less than 20 minutes walking distance to Piazza San Marco).

Assisi: Camere Annalisa Martini.
See Rick Steve's Italy guide. WOW. A super-friendly and eager-to-please lady who treats you like one of her own. Comfy and clean rooms, fantastic price (52 euros for a triple), super convenient location. She charged us 5 euros a piece for laundry service and got our clothes smelling like a bouquet of freshly picked flowers. Thank you Annalisa! You brought a smile to my face every time we chatted.

Spoleto: Istituto Bambin Gesu
Via S. Angelo 4 (Monterone), Spoleto, Tel: 0743 40232 or 0743 43442. Ask for Suora Chiara. I don't know if they speak English, but English speaking couples abound here. This convent in the heart of Spoleto and 15 minutes walking from the Rocca (Castle) and the famous Roman acqueduct was a joy. 75 euros for a triple got us a peaceful, clean room and a homemade high-energy apricot breakfast drink that was served in shot-size cups - you won't forget how good it tastes. Eat at Taverna La Lanterna in Spoleto and ask for the spezzatino di cinghiale - wild boar stew. Yum.
Lucas Womack
Bowie, MD USA 10/19/02

Pompeii
Twice a year the Italian Government gives a free pass to all at Pompeii. One of these dates is the last Sunday in September. Be sure to avoid these dates. You save $10 but the crowds are worse than usual. This should be in the guide book so people can plan accordingly.
Jeanette Fisher
Cincinnati, Oh USA 10/17/02

Comments on 2 weeks in Italy
My wife and I recently returned from a 2-week driving trip through Italy, following Rick Steves's guidebook for the first time. It was invaluable, and we agreed with almost every recommendation. We also enjoyed meeting numerous Rick Steves followers. A few comments and suggestions: 1. Varenna was a great way to see Lake Como area, especially meeting the first of many Rick disciples. It was a pleasant first day in the country. 2. Hotel Fasce in Santa Margherita was very nice and well run by Jane Fasce, whose management style was more akin to a drill sergeant than an innkeeper. 3. We used Lucca as our base in Tuscany, prompted by a tip in Newsweek magazine, and enjoyed it very much. Newsweek recommended Lucca and Hotel Puccini, and we do, too. The owner, Paolo, speaks excellent English and was enormously welcoming and helpful to us. Day trips to Florence, Siena, San Gimignano and other hill towns are very convenient by car or train. Rick should take a look at Lucca. 4. Rome was not the fearsome driving experience we expected. We tried everything to find a way to park our car outside the city, but nothing worked. We ended up driving into and out of the city, and it was really no big deal. Parking near the Hotel Aberdeen was 23.50 Euros/day, though. The Aberdeen was very nice, and well worth the 129 Euro daily rate. 5. Positano was wonderful, and the Hotel Bougainville was nice. We had planned to take day trips from there, but once we got there for our 3-day visit we stayed. Our planned trip to Capri by boat did not materialize because the seas were rough, and the Positano harbor is relatively unprotected. That was okay, though, as being "stranded" in Positano was great. A tip on laundry: We had small load done by the person Rick recommended and it cost us 86 Euros! Next 2-week trip we will pack enough to avoid doing laundry. Le Tre Sorrelle restaurant recommended by Rick was excellent; we ate 3 dinners there (with lots of wine), never spending more than 50 Euros for the 2 of us. 6. Assisi was very nice, as was the Hotel Ideale. We had been concerned, as a Rick Steves traveler had complained about it, but we found it very nice. 7. On our way back north to Milan for our return flight, we spent the night in Sirmione on the south side of Lake Garda, and loved it. The Hotel Chiara was good, too, and only 78 Euros. We had great trip, and we are now confirmed devotees of Rick Steves. I just wish I had thought of doing what Rick does before he did!
Ron
DeWitt, MI USA 10/17/02

Portovenere a major disappointment
My wife and I stayed in the Grand Hotel Portovenere on our trip to Italy, and found both the hotel and the town to be awful. The hotel is essentially a two star hotel with a four star view. The rooms are cramped, and staff is unhelpful. Get a room on the first floor, or else be prepared to wait 5 minutes for their archaic elevator or use the stairs. The restaurants are sub-par. Avoid Antonio's at all costs. It's relatively expensive and the food is poor. Spaghetti Al Mare gets you mostly spaghetti with a couple of tiny mussels and little else. If you do find yourself in Portovenere, try Miramare instead. The stores are primarily tourist traps, filled with postcards and cheap souvenirs. The only worthwhile sight in town is a gorgeous monastery overlooking the ocean, but I wouldn't waste the time to come to Portovenere on its account alone. As a launching off point for Cinque Terre, it's terrible. Boat rides are 18 euros for a round trip ticket and run on a fairly limited time schedule forcing you to return by 6 PM. Buses run irregularly to the La Spezia train station, making this a hassle. Cabs do not come to the town at all unless you are lucky to catch one after it has dropped someone off at the hotel. Even then, it's a hefty 30 euro ride into La Spezia.
Ken Stoltz
San Pablo, CA USA 10/17/02

Lake Orta worth a closer look
Orta San Giulio on Lake Orta is an incredibly beautiful town with a very relaxing feel. It's about 20 minutes away from Stresa and about 45 minutes away from Lake Como. The town itself is full of wonderful restaurants and small eateries situated near a beautiful lake. There is some good shopping as well. Absolutely great, and it doesn't have the tourist trap feeling of many other towns. I recommend the Hotel Contrada Dei Monte as a place to stay in town. The rooms are spacious yet cozy, and affordable at around 70 to 100 euros (the latter being for a full suite). The staff doesn't speak English very well, so the language barrier could be a little bit of a problem, but they are wonderfully cordial, welcoming and seek to please their guests.
Ken Stoltz
San Pablo, CA USA 10/17/02

Varenna & Cinque terre
Have just returned from 3 weeks in Italy following many of your suggestions. Varenna on Lake Como was so lovely we added another day. Levanto near Cinque Terre and the walk to the next village were also wonderful finds.We stayed at Villa Margherita by the sea B&B and really enjoyed. (www.villamargherita.net)
Gordon Moore
London, UK 10/16/02

Florence and Tuscany
Greetings. My wife and I just spent a four-day weekend in Florence. As usual, Florence was great. We stayed at Hotel Bellettini for the second time. Yes we would return there again — even though prices increased 50% in one year. We live in Germany, so we are used to the inflation caused by the Euro conversion. However, Florence has had the highest price increases that we have seen thus far. We had the luxury of taking RyanAir from Hahn airport in Germany. While we flew into Pisa versus Florence, the cost difference is great (savings of over $200 per person). I'd like to recommend to all the American travelers who visit Florence: There is an American cemetary just outside the city. It is easily reachable on the SITA bus (ask at the station — across from SMN train station — for the bus number and departure times) or by driving. Visit this hallowed place and take a few hours out of your vacation time to pay respect to those who died serving our country. It is well worth your time! I spent Sunday touring some Tuscan villages. San Gimignano is toutisty and crowded, but an awesome site. It's a large walled town that has been extensively restored. Go during the week to avoid the crowds. It is very picturesque. I also stopped in Monteriggioni for lunch with new friends I met in Italy. Monteriggioni is a tiny walled village (about 100X200 meters) that is super charming. It's right next to the highway between Florence and Sienna. Definitely worth a small detour. The photo ops are spectacular. I'll be honest. We have kinda outgrown Rick's traveling style (of course living in Europe makes it easier for us). I still bring my wheeled carryon when I do weekend trips. And no, I didn't have Rick's book with me this year. In fact, I didn't have any travel books. In closing, a message for Elizabeth who took a lot of flack. We too hit the wrong #3 bus in Pisa. However, our mistake was trying to get back to the Pisa airport. We jumped on the #3 heading toward the tower. But no fear, as soon as I realized we were heading the wrong direction, I asked the driver (in my extremely broken Italian) how to get to the airport. The driver told us where to get off and meet the CORRECT #3 bus to the airport. Sometimes you just have to ask for help. It only cost us 10-15 minutes delay. No big deal, 'cause we still had an hour to wait for our flight home. Lesson learned: Always ask the driver if the bus is going where you think it is. Tim
Tim
Germany 10/16/02

Rome: Residenza Cellini
My husband and I stayed at the Residenza Cellini while staying in Rome. We considered ourselves very lucky to stay there as there are only 6 rooms, all recently remodeled. The location was perfect — an easy walk with luggage from the train station. The metro and bus stops were also just around the corner, although we found walking everywhere was just as easy and convenient. Our room was lovely and the newly remodeled bathroom had a Jacuzzi bathtub — what a great way to relax after walking all over Rome all day. The Cellini family as our hosts were very friendly and helpful with any questions we had. They were also willing to make museum reservations for us. Visit their Web site at www.residenzacellini.it and see for yourselves why it is a great choice! There is a restaurant on Nationale near this hotel called Ristorante Zeus. Take our advice and stay away — unless you like high prices and tasteless food. However, the Target just down the street was a nice place to get a bite to eat close to home.
Kay Greivenkamp
Tucson, AZ USA 10/15/02

Pisa — Revision
I just wanted to apologize to Rick and any of his readers who read my email regarding Pisa. He was right-on about every aspect of Pisa in his 2002 book which i had the good fortune to read later. He knows all about Italy and I should never question him; that is why he gets paid the big bucks for traveling. Once again, I am sorry if I offended anyone reading the "graffiti" here and hope people continue to bring Rick's most current book with them to Italy as I am sure I will do from now on. Thanks Rick and I'm sorry.
E. Blake
Seattle, USA 10/09/02

Italian restaurants
I had a very good roman cuisine experience visiting the Hosteria Dino & Tony in Rome, near Vatican City (something like via Leone IV). I was there with two American friends. And they (with me) enjoyed the Pasta Amatriciana. Try it
Giovanni Leonori
ROMA, ITALY 10/04/02

Rooms in Vernazza
Had some difficulty finding rooms in Vernzza because of language problems. It seems many rooms are tied into a coop. I found the lady at Enoteca Sciacchetra to be very helpful. She speaks English and connected us with a person with very nice rooms who couldnt speak english. Nice wine at good prices in her shop
Larry McKee
Salt Lake City, UT USA 10/02/02

Sorry Elisabeth, but.....
A small investment in the CURRENT Italy guide book would have been a wise choice. Don't blame Rick for information that is two years old and as he even states in his books could change by the time of printing. Sorry you wasted a day, but the blame is misplaced!
SR
USA 10/01/02

Elizabeth Blake's Out-dated Guide Book
To Elizabeth Blake: You say that you were using Italy 2000 for a trip in September 2002, and then complain that bus information (which you acknowledge may "change frequently") is incorrect?!?! The book is more than 2 years old, how could you possibly expect the information to be current? This was your own fault, not Ricks!
A
USA 10/01/02

Pisa
I was so disappointed with so many aspects of Rick Steves 2000 Italy giudebook. We took the train from Rome to Pisa arriving at 6:30pm on 24Sep02-sunlight still shining. Rick suggests taken bus #3 or #11 to the duomo and leaning tower. There is no #11 and there are 2 #3s one going an hour outside of the city which is located in front of the train station (the one we mistakenly took) and the other #3 which goes right to the field of miracles which is across the street in front of a blank building. We didn't find that out until it was too late and the sun had set before we could see anything and had to move onto the next city. Rick, if you are going to list things like buses or things that can change frequently... make sure people know that there is another option and/or to ask if it is the right one. Since there are 2 possible choices...why not list them. Rick doesn't mention how to get to the proper busstops...just says to go to #3 or #11. We were going by what you said...which was extremely wrong and not only did we miss the beauty of it, wasted our whole day travelling to something we couldn't see, but our pictures were all black. Thanks a lot. For those travelling to Pisa, get there early and take the #3 across the station's square-across the street and for the #3 bus heading to the left. Not the one in the the bus circle going to the right!
Elisabeth Blake
seattle, wa USA 09/30/02

Burano lodging
Anyone know of rooms for rent in Burano? The one place listed in all the books is full up for my time slot.
jim nilsen
edmonds, wa USA 09/30/02

Centrovalli/Lago Maggiore package
Rick did not mention that there is a two day package for 30 Euros, combining the scenic rail and boat trip to Domodossola/ Centovalli train through mountains to Locarno, with return boat trip to Stresa, and one day open travel to visit the islands on Lago Maggiore. The rail/boat trip costs 26 Euro. For 4 Euro more you get the entire second day on the lake, getting on and off at Villa Taranto Gardens, Isola Madre, Isola Pescatori and Isola Bella. This is less than any day package on the lake. We bought the two day package at a travel agency in Stresa. It was the same price as at the "i" (Information), but it began with the rail trip first, instead of the long boat ride to Locarno. It was pouring rain but we still enjoyed the rail trip through the mountains. We will return on a sunny day! It was odd that the tourist services in Stresa did not seem interested or willing to offer information on Locarno, the Swiss city included in their package! We also found it difficult to buy anything for cash in Locarno, because many places prefer Swiss Francs to Euros. One Locarno "i" said that only Swiss Francs could be used. The other "i" by the docks said Euros were welcome. We would recommend stopping at small towns on the Centrovalli rail line and spending minimal time in Locarno itself.
Kathryn Hansman-Spice
Tallahassee, FL USA 09/29/02

Alibus, Malpensa to Lago Maggiore
I forgot to add in my previous comments the phone number for the shuttle bus from Malpensa to Stresa and other cities around Lago Maggiore. Autoservizi Comazzi: 0322 844862 There is another bus that goes to Domodossola: 0324 240333 www.comazzibus.com.
Kathryn Hansman-Spice
Tallahassee, FL USA 09/29/02

Stresa, Italy on Lago Maggiore
Hotel Luina, in Stresa, Italy, is a very friendly place with good food. We hesitate to recommend it to anyone with back problems because the beds were too soft for us. The first room was also very musty. We moved the next day to another room which was fine, with a better bed, but still very springy and unsupportive. We highly recommend the food at Chez Osvaldo. We followed recommendation of The Lonely Planet. It is very inexpensive for lodging and food. We did not stay there, but talked with many who found it very affordable and comfortable. It is family run, with many languages spoken there. We ate many meals there and heard from others that they returned to Chez Osvaldo often because it was the best food they found in Stresa or elsewhere in their travels! There are many daily specials.
Kathryn Hansman-Spice
Tallahassee, FL USA 09/29/02

Malpensa to Stresa Alibus
Please update your guide with specific information on the shuttle bus from Malpensa to Lago Maggiore. We took your suggestion that Stresa was a good starting point. The Hotel Italie et Suisse gave us information on the bus, which saved us much money and time. We told everyone we could about it. It runs from end of March to end of October. Our hotel made reservations. It leaves Malpensa at 8:45, 9:30, 11:30, 14:30, 17:30, 19:30 and 20:30. It takes 50 minutes to Stresa, but it also makes other stops on the way to Intra. It costs 7.75 Euros for each person each way. It is also a great way to return to Malpensa. It leaves from Stresa at 6:30, 8:30, 10:30, 13:30, 16:30, 18:30 and 19:30. Before mid Sept it was a large bus. After, it was a mini-van. We found that nearby hotels did not know about this service, since it is new this year. People leaving Malpensa on a train were hindered by a strike; knowing about the bus would have saved much money, time and frustration. (PS, Hotel Moderno never responded to my email, so I found Hotel Italie et Suisse on the Internet. It was recommended by Cadogan book on Lombardy and the Italian Lakes. Great view of the lake. Balcony doubles for 99 Euros. More formal hotel like, but very helpful manager. Very comfortable, clean rooms with great views.)
Kathryn Hansman-Spice
Tallahassee, FL USA 09/29/02

Return from Honeymoon — our third traveler was Rick!
My husband and I just returned from a 15 day holiday. We felt like we had our own personal tour guide with us...I can't tell you how many times we asked "Where's Rick?" Also, we took Mona Winks with us. While we both love museums, we tend to get "museum head," ie, too overwhelmed by all the beauty, history, and crowds. Mona made the museums so much more enjoyable — we left feeling refreshed and culturally fulfilled. We also did all the "walks," which we loved!! They hit almost all the major and minor sites, so we did not have to plan out our own routes. Here are some additional comments: 1. Take overnight trains — they are very romantic and fun. I would encourage you to buy the first cl. railpass if you plan to do the overnight train. The cost for a two person sleeper via first cl. is cheaper than 2nd...you end up saving. 2. POSITANO!! It was so amazing...we stayed at the wonderful Hotel MARINCANTO — worth every penny! A perfect honeymooy destination. The BEST restaurant that we found was IL Rotrovo....way up in the mountain...they hotel can arrange a free shuttle. Thank you rick, and i can't wait for the next trip!
Melissa and Doug
Pittsburgh, PA USA 09/28/02

Stresa is Beautiful
Thanks for recommending the Hotel Moderno in Stresa (great location, very helpful service, reasonable rates). Stresa has a beautiful location on Lago Maggiore, with a view of the snow-capped Alps, and is very convenient for Malpensa airport.

We stayed six nights and made two day-trips into Milan via train. Stresa was very relaxing after a three week trip to Italy originating in Rome. We reversed your recommendation to start in the north, but the trip was still great. Thanks for your help. Bob & Pat Arango
Bob & Pat Arango
Sausalito, Ca USA 09/26/02

11 Days, 5 Books, 1 DVD
Months before our recent too short visit to Italy I purchased Rick Steve s Italy, Venice, Florence and Rome books as well as Rick s Phrase Book AND Italy DVD. OK, I m the kind of person who goes on the trip many times before actually getting on the plane.

I heartily recommend these books, both the 'All Italy and city specific books for anyone planning to visit Italy and these cities. We made space in our one carry-on each to take the books with us and we used them every day, particularly for museum tours. We enjoyed Rick s why-he-painted-it-that-way descriptions. We purchased some 'Official Guides as much for the photos as descriptions but they seemed to be limited to hard facts like "commissioned 1504, sold to so-and-so in 1712, moved to the Bargello in 1850 &

We made most room reservations by email after browsing individual hotels web sites. We always mentioned "We read about your hotel in Rick Steve s Rome book and each hotel offered us the 'book negotiated price which was always less than prices listed on the hotel web page. In fact, we easily saved enough off of the 'rack rate at the wonderful Residenza Cellini in Rome to pay for all the ETBD materials (several times).

The Phrase Book is fun and portable. Learn left and right! (sinistra and destra?) sure as you learn how to say "Dove a &. Fontana Trevi? in Italian, you ll get a polite and detailed reply & in Italian!

The DVD was more for psyching up than details but a fun addition to the books. Production note: Each segment on the DVD begins with the same dunk-dunk synthesizer theme and my wife said, "That sounds like bad porno music. and I said, "wait a minute, how would YOU know?
Greg Cable
Charlotte, NC USA 09/26/02

Varenna: Hotel Du Lac — Great from Start to Finish.
Following a Rick reccomendation we sent an email inquiring availability Hotel Du Lac. They immediately replied with the kind of 'gentile professionalism we experienced many times sending emails to Italain hotels: "Thank you for you correspondence & we are only too happy to & best regards & Our room was lovely and the perfect antidote to jet lag. The staff were, There you are! We ve been waiting for you! friendly. A great bed. It s a small detail but even the sheets had 'Hotel Du Lac woven into the fabric. Easily our best breakfast in Italy. A true keeper!
Greg Cable
Charlotte, NC USA 09/26/02

Spelling in Italian.
To spell something over the telephone to an Italian speaking person the Italians use the names of cities. A for Agrigento, B for Bologna, C for Como , even N for New York. The letters H, J, K Y and Z, I have found hardest to learn since I they have very lttle relation to the English alphabet.
Kathleen CItrolo Gwinnett
Burlington , NC USA 09/24/02

Varenna: The Invasion of the Yellow Book People
We thoroughly enjoyed Varenna and the lovely (and recommended) Hotel Du Lac. (however) Everywhere we turned we seemed to run into couples carrying a copy of Rick Steve s Italy. Later, we sat across from a couple from Australia on the Eurostar traveling from Florence to Rome. After we exchanged 'where have you visited/ – what did you enjoy? stories I took out my Rick Steve s Rome book to review for our next destination. "There it is! the woman said. "Who is this Rick person? She laughed and said, "Our travel agent advised us to visit out-of-the-way Varenna and everyone there seemed to be Americans carrying yellow books! Still, Varenna was wonderful. A 'vacation from the vacation .
Greg Cable
Charlotte, NC USA 09/24/02

Autostrade Tour Milan: Bad Value
Tour is currently €43. I reccomend asking BEFORE buying tickets what is included in the tour TODAY. My wife and I took the tour and, frankly, regretted it. Since it was Sunday the tour included NOTHING of the Duomo (Cathedral) and nothing of the Sforza Castle. They basically walked us across the Cathedral square theough the Galleria then drove us to the Brera (art) Museum where a docent there gave us a one hour highlights tour then back to the bus and on to the Last Supper. The La Scala (opera) museum has been moved to a building across the street from Santa Maria della Grazie (Last Supper) while the the Las Scala theater undergoes renovation. It too was not included in our tour. The Last Supper is very worthwhile but I reccomend calling 011 39.028.942.1146 and booking directly and skipping the Autostradale tour altogether. We confirmed the tour is only offered afternoons (3pm) on Saturday and Sunday and only then during 'high season'. http://www.autostradale.it/altre/girocitt.htm
Greg Cable
Charlotte, NC USA 09/24/02

Ravenna, Urbino, Assisi and cassanovas.
Just got back from a little 5-day trip up into North Italy (I'm an American living in Naples). I used Rick's book as usual and was not dissapointed. Here's a few things to remember:

1)in the Italy 2002 book, the map for Ravenna has a mistake. The Al Giaciglio hotel and the Hotel Ravenna are switched. I had a little bit of trouble figuring out where my hotel was because of that. Ravenna is really nice and low key, by the way.

2)Urbino in the region of Le Marche is worth a quick look, in my opinion. Nice little college town, birthplace of Raphael.

3) I stayed with Camere Annalisa Martini in Assisi, and they could not have been nicer, sweeter people. Don't miss Assisi at night.

4)Women traveling alone: Watch for the men on trains, I had to push a man away from me to keep him from kissing me. Sit with some other women, families or couples. Try not to make eye contact with the men who are bothering you and ignore them as much as you can. Tell them to "Vai via!"

5) EAT LOTS OF GELATO and have a wonderful trip!
Angela
Naples, Italy 09/20/02

Cinque Terre
We just came back from 2 weeks in Italy with a 2 day stop in the Cinque Terre. I can't imagine any hotel being better than the Hotel Villa Steno. Very well run, nice room, great balcony view and at the top of the hill away from the train and the harbor, very quiet. Arianna and Alessandra were very freindly and helpful. Laundry was a steal at $9 for a big load, and folded perfectly.

We hiked from Vernazza to Manarola on the trails. The trail from Vernazza to Corniglia was very woodsy, narrow and required lots of concentration to avoid falling. And there really wasn't much to look at but the trail. We'd recommend the hike from Corniglia to Manarola and on to Riomaggiore. Relatively flat, right along the ocean wiht lots of great ocean views.

Some friends took the 7a to 6d to 6 trail up to Volestra and said it was a tough hike byt very pretty. I'd recommend taking the train between villages and saving your energy to hike up into the towns from the train station.

We had made arrangements to tour with Sean Risatti, but he cancelled the morning of the tour, claiming too many other commitments. He did give us lots of tips on whast to see and where to go.
Ron
Cleveland, OH USA 09/19/02

Villa Margherita B&B , Cinque Terre
I just returned from a 2-week stay and as usual Italy is WONDERFUL. We visited Cinque Terre for the first time and stayed at Villa Margherita by the sea B&B in Levanto, the doorway, to the other villages. We really like Levanto and the Villa, we rented a large double room with patio and ocean view!!! Federico , the owner , speaks english really well and he was really helpful (ww.villamargherita.net info@villamargherita.net)
Jason Baroni
San Mateo, CA USA 09/19/02

Found italy guidebook on piazza san marco in venice
i found an italy guidebook on piazza san marco about two weeks ago, anyone missing one? the book is nice by the way... mail me if you miss the book
martin
Linz, Austria 09/18/02

Hotels — Venice, Florence, Rome
Here are some comments about hotels that we stayed in during our recent trip.

Venice: Hotel Al Piave. This was the best hotel of our entire trip. It is minutes away from the tourist places, but is located on a quiet back street. This hotel is a true gem, excellent value and very charming. We had booked a regular double room but it had a separate kitchen with all kitchen items including fridge, dishwasher, etc. The restaurant next door was excellent too.

Florence: Hotel Casci. About 5 minutes walk from the Duomo. The people who run the hotel are very friendly and helpful. Quick to respond by emails. Good value.

Rome: Hotel Alimandi: This was the most expensive hotel ($140/night for a double room) of our entire trip and also the most disapponting. They put us in the buliding across the street instead of the main hotel. That building, we were told, was leased by the hotel from nuns. The rooms there were very sparse, had no amenities whatsoever, no soap, no shampoo, A/C did not work, no TV, traffic noise kept us awake all night. The next day we asked to be moved to the main building and they agreed. The rooms in the main hotel building were far better, much like a regular hotel. But I don't understand why they did not give us a room there in the first place. If you stay here, make sure to ask to stay in the main building.
Salil
Austin, TX USA 09/18/02

Italy
My 4 daughters, my wife and I spent 12 days in Italy recently. Here are some pointers:

1.) The Cinque Terre was great. We stayed at the Hotel Suisse Bellevue (not mentioned by Rick). It was truly great and is much closer to Northern European standards than some Italian hotels. Many Germans, Austrians and Swiss stay there. It is located on the hill in Monterrossa and a private shuttle takes you up and down. The benefit is the hill gets nice and cool at night and the breeze from the ocean is great.

2.) In Rome, Monte del Gallo (montedelgallo@tiscalinet.it), by the Vatican is a very nice B&B.

3.) Be sure to see Pompeii, Positano and the Amalfi Coast! We took a private tour with Paola Apolloi (www.driving-guide.com)

4.) In Venice, rent an apartment and live like a Venetian. We stayed at one rented from venice rentals julia (iakhram@tin.it). A large 3 bedroom, it was located near the Greek bridge. Fantastic. The owner even bought us some groceries, knowing we would be tired when we arrived. Venice was great and many Venetians went out of their way to help us.
Barry
Edmonton, 09/14/02

Rome and Chianti
We used Rick's Italy guidebook for much of our stay in Rome and Tuscany in June. We loved Hotel Sant'Anna. It is a small but elegant spot and so close to the Vatican. The rooms are both charming and well equipped and we enjoyed our triple, which had a built-in twin for our 10-year-old son. The restaurants in Rome are incredible, but we didn't rely on the guidebook. Roberto's, only a few doors from Hotel Sant'Anna and recommended by the gentleman manning the reception area, offered a simple but very delicous dinner. Rick's guidebook is also handy for navigating the parking situation in larger hilltowns and we consulted it often. We stayed in Panzano in Chianti, a lovely little town with a very nice view of the surrounding valleys and good central location for touring Siena, Florence, San Gimignano and towns further south.
Shelly
Seattle, WA USA 09/14/02

Cinque Terre — Please!
This drives me crazy!!!! The proper name of the area is — Cinque Terre(five lands), not Cinque Terra(five land)
Michelle
Clarksburg, CA USA 09/13/02

Italy: August 2002
I just returned from a two week vacation in Italy. Rick Steves' book was the best resource we had on our whirlwind trip. I wanted to point out a few things that worked and didn't work for us... 1) We loved the Cinque Terre!!! The book was right about the Hotel Villa Steno in Monterosso. It was perfect, beautiful, and the staff was very friendly. 2) I would not suggest visiting Italy in August. The book mentioned that most Italians are on vacation during this time. Many shops, resturants, bars, etc. are closed. Milan and Florence were practically shut down. It was a little disappointing. 3) I would stress even more in the book how important it is to make museum reservations. We learned that the hard way. 4) Finally, the religious holiday on August 15th really shuts the Vatican down for the majority of the week, not just on that day. I hope these comments are helpful!
Jen
Tempe, AZ USA 09/13/02

Here's what we think — Cinque Terra
My wife and I just returned from a one week trip travelling from Zurich to the Cinque Terra and back to the US from Milan. What a great trip! A few comments that I think anyone can use. 1. The Cinque Terra is beautiful. It's worth the trip. It feels like "real" Italy. 2. Three days was a perfect amount of time to enjoy the trails and some time on the beach. 3. The hike from Riomaggiore to Monteroso requires stamina and is narrow at points. It is a trail, and not a sidewalk (except from Riomaggiore to Manarola) 4. Riomaggiore was a great town to stay in — except for one night when a group of Australian skinny-dipper's decided to rudely share their late night enthusiasm with the rest of the village. Affittacamere Vesigna Edi in the middle of town had simple clean, and affordable rooms with a view. 5. Dinner at La Lanterna is a great choice. It's slightly "over-budget", but great food and service. In early September, reservations were required. 6. Train travel back to Milan was reliable and easy. One change of trains in Genoa. Definately cheaper and easier than risking the autostrada. All in all, the Cinque Terra should make your list of European destinations.
Gregg & Jean Brummer
Dunwoody, Georgia, ga USA 09/11/02

Italy Guidebook
I spent 3 weeks in Italy this summer with my 13 year old daughter. The trip went well and I found Rick Steve's guidebooks to be good and full of very helpful information. I used both the Italy book and the Rome book.

We took the train with point to point tickets and it worked out well. Rick's tip to buy the tickets from a travel agent was excellent, saving a lot of time and stress. I was not much impressed by the Eurostar. The intercity trains are just as fast and a lot cheaper.

We had a very good experience at La Tonnarella in Sorrento. The hotel was very nice, the fanciest we stayed in, with great views and best of all, a small beach where we could swim. The beach was very crowded on weekends, but during the week it was wonderful, and a great relief after a sweltering day of sightseeing in Pompeii or Naples. The young women who worked the front desk were nice and friendly, very helpful when we got delayed by a train strike, and spoke excellent English.

The food at the restaurant was a bit expensive, but good, and the view was fabulous. One of the waiters was very snooty, but he didn't ruin the experience, and he gave us something to joke about.

We took the hydrofoil from Sorrento to Naples for a day trip, and it was much nicer than the Circumvesuviana train. We walked from the port to the archeological museum, it's not too far, and was an interesting walk.

I actually didn't like the town of Sorrento much at all, too much of a tourist trap, but it is convenient for touring the Naples area, and the setting is beautiful.

We loved Lucca, which is not in Rick Steve's book. We stayed at the Piccolo Hotel Puccini, 88 euros for a double with private bath. It was very nice with friendly staff, and right in the center of town. Lucca is small, quiet and beautiful. It's 15 minutes from Pisa by train (the Pisa San Rossore stop on the Lucca-Pisa line is just a few blocks from the Campo dei Miracoli).
AB
Eugene, OR USA 09/07/02

tips for guidebook
We visited Italy for the first time and used Rick Steves' Italy 2002 guidebook. We stayed two weeks (just returned home last week) and loved it. I had a couple of recommendations/suggestions.

1. Ambra Palace Hotel in Roma was fantastic. Staff was wonderful, rooms clean and beautiful. Reasonable rates, too. Check it out.

2. L'Antica Trattoria in Sorrento was superb. I think it was one of the best meals I have ever had. The staff was friendly, fun, and courteous. The food was to die for and the atmosphere incredible. It was by far the best restaurant we went to in our two weeks. Tony was great.

3. Animal lovers should be warned about the many starving dogs and cats living in the streets. It almost ruined my trip. Naples was the worst. Of course, the man beating his horse in Sorrento because he had a hurt leg wasn't much better. I saw people just stepping over a dog who appeared to have been hit by a car. Also, the homeless dogs at Pompeii was very traumatizing. Does Italy not have any animal advocacy groups?

4. Skip the Blue Grotto. It wasn't worth the money, chaos or diesel fumes.

5. You hit on the nail on the head with your gelateria choices.

Your practical tips were very helpful. Thanks!
Erin Bentrim-Tapio
Spartanburg, SC USA 09/05/02

Milan: Autostradale Tour (Afternoon)
According to their website, http://www.autostradale.it/altre/gi rocitt.htm and I called them at 027-252-4300, the 3 hour tour (without Gilligan and the Skipper) is only offered in the afternoon on Saturday and Sunday departing at 3pm. They were also happy to take my name and make a reservation. Speaking of names, I've found it's sometimes a struggle to spell names over the telephone with someone who is doing me the grat favor of speaking to me in English. I use common Italian words "amore" "bravo" "como" "domani"... to spell out the name. So far when I've tried this it's been met with laughter AND understanding from the person I'm talking to.
Greg Cable
Charlotte, NC USA 09/04/02

ITALIAN HONEYMOON
Just come back from Italy 10 days trip !!! W O W!!! we have visited Cinque Tere, Assissi and Rome. The best spot for us was definitely Cinque Tere, we stayed in Levanto and it was a good option to avoid 5 T crowd. Best food: Il capitano di Giovanni Baso in Vernazza (GREAT SPAGETTI ) Taverna Garibaldi in Levant ... 36 pizzas ( some with pesto some wit roqueford frenc chese, and wondeRful mix of ANTIPASTTI)
FRANK & MARY
CAN 09/04/02

HOTELS ITALY
I am planning my second trip to Italy and am using Rick's book exclusively.

HOTEL ITALIA Rome: I have just made the reservations (3 rooms, 6 days) and the staff was very accommodating and responded the same day. All was done over the internet.

Venice: HOTEL FLORA is execptionally clean and comfortable. It is a 4min. walk to St. Marks square. The staff is friendly and helpful. My daughter's card got eaten by the banks ATM and the bank had already closed. Although there were people inside, they would not come to the door. We went back to the hotel (next door)and told the manager what happened, he called the bank, went over and retreived the card. We had great service the 3 days we were guests.
Elaine
Wilton, CA USA 09/03/02

2-In Defense of 5 Terre & S.Margherita Ligure hotels !!
We are typing these few lines in defense of 5 Terre and S. Margherita Ligure hotels mentioned below.

We have traveled all over Italy since 1992. Every year we spend a few days (almost 1 week) both in the Cinque Terre and in S. Margherita Ligure. Always with RS Guide. We know how italian law judges hotels, from 1 star(lowest) to 5 stars (highest). When you choose a 1 star hotel, you cannot pretend the ambience and the service will be that of a deluxe hotel. When people go on holiday, they should consider their expecations: the higher these are, the higher must be the level of the hotel they choose to stay at.

In all our travels we have seen many embarassing situations where guests complain about silly things, when their low hotel bill clearly justifies their choice to stay in a 1 or 2 star hotel. The problem is that some people are becoming more and more pretentious and expect their problems (especially their "inside" problems, ie. unhappiness) to be solved by a vacation.

My wife and I always try to meet the local standard of living: it makes everything much easier. When we choose a small 1 star hotel, we accept it as it is. All the small hotels in RS guides have never disappointed us because we knew before arrival what we were going to get (in most cases even more !! see Famiglia Sabini's Nuova Riviera in Santa Margherita or Ca Andreani in Manarola!!!). Bon Viaggio to everybody !
Tania & Paul KING
Seattle, USA, USA 09/03/02

Convent stays/ Unmentioned places.
I am surprised that noone has mentioned the beauty of Orvietto or Civita de Bagnoregio. (Both beautiful, non touristy Italian hill towns which are worth a visit).

I am also very surprised that none of you stayed in convents. Beautifully kept courtyards, spacious rooms, and hey, I know that they will not rip me off.:-) I stayed at the Oblate Sisters of Assumption in Florence, the Domenican sisters in Orvietto, and the Alma Domus in Sienna. I am not Catholic, but I thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
cat dance
Portland, OR USA 09/02/02

Museum Reservations in Florence Italy
We recently returned from a trip to Florence to see many of the art treasures of the Renaissance. As you can well imagine, the summer crowds were everything advertised with lines 2 hours or more at some of the major attractions. While Rick advises making reservations at the Uffizi and the Accademia by telephoning ahead, as an alternative, you can make reservations on the Intenet at www.weekendafirenze.com. Although there is a service charge, it worked exceedingly well, and was a small price to pay to avoid those long lines in a hot August sun.
Gary L. Birdwell
Atlanta, GA USA 08/28/02

Como lake, Cinque Terre and Florence
We have just arrived from Italy, a beautiful country but with some points I would like to explain:

In the Lake Como area, we stayed in Candenabbia di Griante (between Tremezzo and Menaggio, opposite to Bellagio)in Albeghetto La Marianna. Someone recommended this little hotel and I agree with him. Signora Paola is a pleasant woman and the breakfasts on the sun garden with the lake views are incredible. The village is an easy walk from Villa Carlota and you can hike to San Martino church (1 hour walking up, but what a views!). In Bellaggio, I tried the best pizza in La Grotta. In Varenna we very much enjoyed the gardens of Villa Monasterio and Villa Ciprese. The ferries between the villages are cheap and the views excellent.

After that we went to Vernazza, in Cinque Terre (for me this was the best, although August is very crowded). We had booked a room with Giuliano Basso long in advance, confirmed twice by email, but when we arrived at Vernazza our surprise was that Giuliano had disappeared. We asked for him in the tourist office, they called twice but nothing. They sent us to the restaurant he worked at and he didn't appear that afternoon. Imagine, in the middle of August, Vernazza very crowded, and us waiting for someone who never appeared. In the end an old man offered us a room for two nights and we took it; we are still wondering what happened to Giuliano Basso. Another comment is that if you do not book a table in advance in the restaurants of the Piazza it is impossible to eat there (they said all the tables were booked, even in those restaurants of the Tower, etc.), at least in August. For us, the "Ruta del Amore" is not worth it and the views are not as good as everyone says.

Our last stop in Italy was Florence, staying at Soggiorno Battistero, excellent location in Piazza S. Giovanni with a great view of the Duomo (the problem is the noise till late in the night, but it is the center of the town). We ate very well in Oltrarno in a little enoteca near to Piazza Sto. Spirito. Don't miss the views of Florence from S. Miniato, it is wonderful. Take the bus out to Fiesole and spend a good amount of time in the Etruscan village.

The trains in Italy are a bit chaotic. Most of them are crowded, with no possibility of sitting if you don't have a seat reservation (at least in August when all Italians are on holiday).
Anna
Barcelona, Spain 08/28/02

Rome ~
From a first time traveler to Rome, some suggestions. Use Rick's book as a Bible of insight! We stayed at the Aberdeen and the Oceania and had wonderful experiences. Both Hotels are charming and priced right, not to mention they are in the best neighborhood of Rome. Walking distance to the Fontina de Trevi, the Pantheon, Piazza Novona and more! Good shopping on via Nazional and the train station (Termini Stazione) is 2 blocks away. Day trips to Florence are very easy taking the Eurostar train. Viva Roma!
Patrick
Boston, MA USA 08/26/02

Right on Rich Fritzson!
Right On Rich Fritzson! We went to Vernazza in May, and yes the crowds can be troublesome, but timing is everything. We stayed with Tonino Basso as well (clean rooms, lots of privacy). Perhaps other travelers can shed light on this. The time of day, which township in the Cinque Terre you are in, which day of the week, what events are scheduled for the particular town you are in, all play a part in the crowded conditions at any given moment.

For instance, my wife, whose mother had just passed away, found that the chapel in Vernazza was one of the holiest that she found in Europe for blue collar folks like us. Lit a candle, had as much time for private prayer as she wished, and no crowds to disturb her. Beats the socks off St Peter's in Rome.
Todd
Atlanta, GA USA 08/24/02

Buying Euros in the USA
My husband and I are going to Italy in a week. I thought it would be good to have some Euros in hand for our layover in Germany and when we first arrive in Venice. It was easy to order them through my bank (B of A.) Just called customer service and they arrived at my home in 3 days. Now I don't have to look so lost when I first arrive looking for the nearest ATM.
Liz
Roseville, CA USA 08/24/02

Qualification of CT comments
We found that Vernazza is a completely different place after the sun goes down. We had dinner al Costello, and it was wonderful — the ambiance, food, everything. During the day, however, we thought it had the charm and atmosphere of your local municipal pool or beach. Throngs showed up just to lie on the rocks or suntan on the beach — with lots of loud kids. True, they were Italians not Americans, but that didn't make the experience anymore enjoyable. Our advice would be to stay in Manarola or Corniglia, stick to the trail levels, and to fly in by helicopter — the rail service there was outrageously horrendous — delayed trains, rail employees physically accosting my fiancee behind my back, etc. I doubt that we'll go back if we return to Italy — it was just too overrun by the local beach crowd and getting there is too much trouble. If we need that setting, we'll go to Maine.
Ryan Candee
Brooklyn, NY USA 08/23/02

In defense of Cinque Terre in August
My wife and I just returned from 15 days in Italy, planned largely with Rick's 'Italy', 'Venice' and 'Florence' books. We visited Venice, Florence, Cinque Terre, Siena and Rome, in that order. I don't think we've ever had a better trip anywhere.

We had no choice about when to travel; we were there the first two weeks of August. The only gesture we made toward avoiding crowds was to stay away from Cinque Terre on the weekend.

We stayed in Vernazza, with Guiliano Basso. He's a very nice guy, with beautiful rooms, which share a wonderful view deck. (Our private bathroom was the largest and most attractive bathroom we had access to in Italy. It would probably be called 'spacious' even in Texas.)

We did not encounter crowds of obnoxious American tourists anywhere. Yes, there were lots of tourists in Vernazza, but they were primarily Italians, and there were not so many that we felt crowded. The only time we really were crowded (again by Italians) was on the commercial beach in Monterroso, and that was just fun.

Most of the Vernazza harbor restaurants were busy in the evenings. But we hiked alone on the trails. We only did the most popular direct town to town trails along the shore, but we didn't see anyone illegally camping along the trail. Most of our encounters with people were in or near the towns, or on the easy walk from Riomaggiore to Manarola.

The time we spent there was wonderful. Cinque Terre is as beautiful as you can imagine. The two most difficult trails, the two leading out of Vernazza, will take your breath away with their magnificent views as well as with their steep climbs. (My wife and I are 'around 50' and not particularly fit. These trails are a cardiovascular workout, but they're not dangerous and don't require skills other than stamina.)

We will definitely return to the Cinque Terre. We'll probably stay in a town other than Vernazza, but just for the variety of experience, not because we didn't have a great time.
Rich Fritzson
Paoli, PA USA 08/20/02

Feedback on Italy
We returned from Italy 2 weeks ago and found your guidebook 'Italy 2002' to be really excellent. Thank you. We visited Lake Como, Cinque Terre, Sorrento and the Amalfi coast, and Milan. We would like to recommend 2 restaurants in Sorrento that are not in the guidebook: O'Parruchiano at Corso Italia 67, and Pizzeria Aurora on Piazza Tasso, 10/11. Our favorite gelati was at Davide Gelato in Sorrento.
Michael Heilbronn
Toronto, Ontario Canada 08/19/02

Assisi...Walking Tour
Recently reviewed Rick's Italy 2002 and rather pleased with his review of Assisi. Italy being my favorite country and having been in Assisi 19 times (going back next year for #20) I was a bit unhappy with Rick's quoting Anne's Artisan Walk as 'pricey'....I have been on her 'Walk' at least 4 if not 5 times and each time learned something different...so for the enjoyment and knowledge received, I didn't consider it expensive. In fact when I take others of my SFO fraternity to Italy and Assisi, Anne Robichaud's Artisan Walks are always a part of the trip.
Betty
Scottsdale, AZ USA 08/18/02

No kids (under 8 yrs.) allowed in Leaning Tower of Pisa
Since Rick doesn't mention it in his books or in the Italy update, please note that for security reasons, children under 8 years are not allowed to enter the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Unfortunately I didn't know that until right after I purchased a ticket online for myself and my 4 1/2 year old son.
Mark
Midwest, USA 08/14/02

Antica Locanda dei Mercanti in Milano is great!
I wanted to come to the defense of the Antica Locanda dei Mercanti in Milano. We stayed there for 4 nights last October and thought it was delightful and a great value. By forgoing a street level location, you get nice rooms just a block off the via Dante which is a wide pedestrian-only street lined with cafes and shops. We splurged and stayed in one of their suites with a terrace. It was gorgeous and one of the quietest places we stayed in a 5-week trip to Italy.

As a previous message stated, breakfast is not included (they are a bit coy about that) but don't use that as a reason not to stay there. It's a great hotel in a great location in a great city. If you don't want to pay the breakfast charge, you can stroll over to the via Dante and eat outside at one of the cafes there. We did that several times and also ate in several times. No big deal. The staff was very helpful in recommending places for dinner. The Antica Locanda dei Mercanti ended up being one of our favorites in Italy.
Donna
Seattle, WA USA 08/13/02

Ratings
I found the Italy 2002 guidebook useful, but was taken aback at some of the relative ratings of sights. For example, the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, containing frescos by Giotto which are the equal of those by Michaelangelo in the Sistine Chapel, received only 2 stars out of three. So did Padua's open air markets, which sell fruit and vegetables (not always too fresh), flowers, clothing and souvenirs!
S. Newman
Pleasantville, NY USA 08/12/02

Avoid Vernazza at all costs!!!
If hundreds of screaming kids and trashy beach hoppers are your idea of a good time, by all means come here. If you're looking for something besides another tacky tourist trap, make sure you hit civita instead of the 5 terre. We're there right now and can hardly wait to leave!!!!!
Ryan Candee
New York, NY USA 08/12/02

Other Hotel Notes
Vicenza-Outside of Downtown, on the convenient #1 bus line, we stayed at Hotel Mary (not in Rick's book). The entire staff is well versed in English, as the hotel is heavily booked by US service members doing Temporary Duty at the nearby post. Riding in the elevator was worth a few Euros. AC, CC Db-52 Euro. Nice clean rooms and a little cafe in the lobby. Anna, Melissa, and Angie run a tight show. Note that they do turn the AC off from 7am-2pm during room cleaning.

Roma-Hotel Aberdeen. VERY nice hotel. Staff speaks very good english. Massimo no longer works there.

Florence-Hotel Accademia. A nice hotel, but please note they do not have an elevator, and about 30 steps to the hotel. No problem for my wife, as I was her pack mule :). They charge $5 per hour for the internet usage, a pretty good deal. The floor plan does defy logic as Rick noted, it was worth a little exploration.

Cinque Terre-Worth it, go! The rock beach in Corniglia requires a lot of stairs, if you just hiked from Monterosso, skip it (unless you are glutton for punishment).

Bolzano-Hotel Figl: this was our favorite hotel on the trip. Helga and her husband run a tight and friendly ship. They love getting Rick Steves' readers at their hotel. Helga indicated that the book was the best free advertising that money could buy. :) You can stay in Italy and get the German experience by going to this town. The earth pyramids in the mountains were not worth the 1 hour walk.

Venice-Hotel Albergo Guerrato. This 800 year old building makes for a cool hotel. I can see why Rick Steves' uses it. Be warned that taking the water bus to the Rialto stop requires that you haul your luggage over the Rialto bridge...of course no problem when you have the pack mule husband along :). There are other, more time and Euro-consuming ways to get there as to avoid the bridge.

This was the best Vacation we have ever taken and Rick Steve's book made it easy as ever.
Daryle W.
Atlanta, GA USA 08/10/02

Loved Cinque Terre, did not care for Mar Mar room services
We just loved Cinque Terre, but would not recommend the services of Mar Mar. Additionally, we found Alberto (Bar Centrale) to be downright rude. All I did was ask that they fix the AC in the room (I was paying for an AC'd room). It is nice to be threatened with eviction when you are just trying to get a little customer service. I do not mind lack of AC, but this room was low on the natural air circulation and was over 80 degrees at night, with the window open. They did knock a few Euros off the room price...too little too late.
Daryle W.
Atlanta, GA USA 08/10/02

Cinque Terre & S. Margherita Ligure
I've just spent a lovely vacation in the area of Cinque Terre plus S. Margherita Ligure. I chose family hotels like the Pasini in Monterosso and the Nuova Riviera (Fam. Sabini) in Santa Margherita Ligure. The Hotel Pasini is a 3 star, a little bit expensive but worth it for the view. Spent great time in excursions all around the 5 small villages. Met many people angry with some locals for giving away their room even if they made a booking ....

The NUOVA RIVIERA Hotel was great for 2 things: it's just a one star but offers nice accomodation with lovely renewed rooms (since I'm in hotel business too I asked to see all of them — just 12 — upon departure). I noticed that some of them are really large and bathrooms are easy to use with very wide mirrors and plenty of space to put your things.

Breakfast is continental but if you ask for capuccino or coffee (the best one I've ever had during my stay in Italy!) Mr. Sabini is happy to bring it to you with no extra charge (which is rare in the hotels of the area). I stayed there 5 nights and I will be back. The Sabini Family, daughter Christina, son JoanCarlo have been precious in advising us of what to do and what to see .... don't forget the friday market in town !!!
Mark & Susan TOOTH
New York, NY USA 08/08/02

Hotel Montemare, Positano
Hotel Montemare is not in Rick's book. Its phone number is 089-875010-84017 Via Pasitea 119
Elisa Hensley
Marietta, GA USA 07/31/02

Siena and Positano
My husband and I just returned from a wonderful trip to Italy. We loved Siena and the Hotel Duomo was perfect. We had a great view of the city and countryside. The best restaurant was in Siena; Da Divo was absolutely wonderful!!!! Great food and a beautiful atmosphere.

We found Sorrento a disappointment and the staff at Hotel Minerva to be rude. Our room was so awful that we spent only one night. We then headed over to Positano which was wonderful and stayed at Hotel Montemare. The staff was friendly, hotel has an awesome terrace. We would buy a bottle of wine (get glasses from the hotel) and some cheese and sit for hours in the evening as the sun went down. Our room was also large and had a balcony w/a great view. Renting the umbrellas and chairs at the beach is a must. A great restaurant in Positano is Cafe Max. Great food, but pricey.
Elisa Hensley
Marietta, GA USA 07/31/02

Hotels in Cingue Terre and Santa Margherita
After visiting Cinque Terre three times this year, I recommend Hotel Cinque Terre in Monterosso. It was previously in a Rick Steve's guidebook; however, did not reappear in the 2002 guidebook. We found the staff to be extremely helpful and friendly. I left an item in a restaurant we had eaten in our last night there, and they were gracious enough to retrieve the item from the restaurant and ship it to me. They had beach towels for the beach, and when I mentioned it was a bit warm in the room a fan was brought up immediately. Breakfast was included with the room and was more then the typical continental breakfast. It was nice to discover there still are hard working people who try to make your stay as comfortable as possible.

Places I DO NOT recommend. Mike and Franca Castigilone's place in Vernazza. On arrival there were still guests booked in our room so we could not have it the first night of OUR reservation that had been confirmed several times. They tried charging 75 euros for the room (much higher then the price listed in the book). The bed was lumpy and the room was tiny therefore lacking any room to move about. It appeared as though a thorough cleaning had not been done for about 20 years, and they refused to clean the rooms during our stay.

Nuova Riviera in Santa Margherita. We arrived and we were told we had a beautiful room, but it was not ready yet so we were offered breakfast while we waited. During breakfast, the guests changed their minds and decided to stay longer, so we were given a less desirable room. The shower did not drain and the signs in the bathroom stipulated rules during your stay. Number 1, do not use the towel to wash your face if you wear make-up. Instead use the scratchy tissue. Number 2, do not rinse out items in the sink. Upon checking out we were charged 12 euros for our coffee and hard rolls.
Linda
Paris, France 07/30/02

Cinque Terre: Bar Centrale
Cinque Terre was my favorite place in Italy. I loved all of Rick's reccos except Bar Centrale. Ivo and fellow workers were terribly rude. We even told him we're from SF (he used to live there) and he was very unfriendly. He even kicked my friend out of the bar when he tried to pay them for Internet use!
Michele Steele
San Francisco, CA USA 07/29/02

Italy — General
The Italy guide book was right on. We went to Lake Como, Riviera and Florence. At Lake Como, stayed at Hotel Olivedo. Rick's comments were right on (lumpy mattresses and great food). Tony's in Bellagio appeared to be closed (and possibly for some time). I would ask Rick on his next visit to the Riviera to try Villa Gnnochi just outside of Santa Margherita. This is a great B&B and was very reasonable ($88 per night). Also would mention that Rapallo should get some publicity. Nice larger city that had some nice places to eat. Florence was just as Rick described. For the nice end of the trip stay at a nicer hotel try the Hotel Gallery Art. Check their website for specials. This was a very nice place to relax and finish up our trip. Will never use any other guide book from this point forward.
Phil Jones
Atlanta, GA USA 07/29/02

Hotel near Malpensa Airport, Milan Italy
If you need to spend the night near the Malpensa airport after leaving Milan, do not hesitate to stay at the Hotel Cervo. It is located less than 2 miles from the airport in a quaint little village. The hotel was about the cleanest of all that we had stayed in on our trip and the staff was completely helpful, professional and friendly. When you arrive at the airport, just call them and they will send a large van to pick you up and take you to the hotel. You can make arrangements to be taken to the airport in the morning (there are time restrictions on all of this, but not many ). We reserved our room with them over the internet and had no problems when we arrived. They were waiting to get our call, as a matter of fact. Highly recommend them for a restful last night before a long flight (or a restful introduction upon arrival to Italy!)
Margaret Payne
Morris, MN USA 07/28/02

the "Last Supper" in Milan
If you are traveling to Milan and wish to see da Vinci's "Last Supper", I do not recommend that you deal with SelectItaly which you can find on the internet. They sell tickets to the "Last Supper" and set up a reservation for you at the church in Milan. This is all well and good, and maybe for some a perfect way to go, but please be aware of this: they charge 3 times the cost of the regular ticket for their service. I can understand being charged double (for providing a convenient service), but triple?

It looked to me like the day we were there that a person (or several) could just wait and tag along with any group that showed up (presuming the maximum number allowed in hadn't been reached). Consequently, it cost four of us $76 to see the fresco, when buying tickets there would have cost 26.00E.
Margaret Payne
Morris, MN USA 07/28/02

Hotels in Italy
We just returned from 12 days in northern Italy. In MILAN, we stayed at the lovely Hotel Gritti. Easy to find, clean rooms, great price, and genial staff. In TRENTO, the Accademia is a perfect place to explore this town with a glorious central piazza and near the breathtaking Riva del Garda and Castel Toblino. In VENICE, we stayed at the Hotel al Piave. Another great location, great price, very clean and spacious room.

Right next door is a restaurant that you will want to return to again and again. Sorry, I can't remember the name, but believe me you won't be able to miss it. (They do charge 1.50E pp cover charge — but the food is worth this extra.) Each of these hotels served a very large breakfast — way more than bread and coffee! We did all our hotel reservations on the internet and didn't have any problems with any hotel. We did reconfirm about two weeks before leaving.
Margaret Payne
Morris, MN USA 07/28/02

Tuscany
Just returned from a trip in Tuscany and stumbled upon the most amazing accomodation. Located in between Florence and Siena is Bassetto. It's a 14th century monastry converted into a hotel and hostel with a swimming pool and events going on every night to remind you are right in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. They also have a little van they use to do tours of vinyards and other Tuscan delights.... www.bassettobackpack.com don't be put of by the name it's not only for backpackers
Mark Pescott
Jersey, USA 07/28/02

Cortona nd Toscana
Ciao Readers, I have spent most of the last nine months in Toscana and Cortona and will offer info to those planning to travel or visit this area. Rick's 2002 guide finally offers a short profile of Cortona
P@
Cortona, Arezzo IT 07/27/02

Rome, mishaps and a treasure trove
My husband and I recently returned from Italy and had a GREAT time. What an amazing country! Two bummers we'd like to share so others will avoid the same mistakes:

In Rome we thought we had booked a room with the Hotel Navona. Turns out that when we booked it through the internet, some weird thing happened and instead we were booked into a rundown, unfriendly, no charm, bed and breakfast that was in the Navona building. When we mentioned this to the Hotel Navona, one floor down in the building they said this had happened to three other people recently. Not Hotel Navona's fault and they tried to help us out by finding us a room in the hotel. Beware, if you are trying to book a room in Hotel Navona, make sure it is the real Hotel Navona and not an unrelated B&B in the Navona building.

Secondly, be sure you get an experienced tour guide from the tour group Walks of Rome. We had a tour guide for the Vatican City who was literaly clueless. She kept saying she couldn't remember the name of many of the artists or the date or, you name it, she knew very little about the art as a tour guide. We were very disappointed with the tour and would have gotten more information just by reading some guidebooks. Also the tour price quoted in Rick's 2002 Italy guide book is wrong. I can't remember the amount we paid, it was less than quoted in the book, but it did not include admission to the Vatican Museum.

Lastly, The Borghese Gallery is not to be missed. It is spectacular!!!! Incredible art. Be sure to rent the audiogude, it is filled with fascinating information.
Arden Clise
Seattle, WA USA 07/26/02

Museums in Milan Poldi Pozzoli
Just visited the Poldi Pozzoli Museum in Milan. Most underrrated museum I ever heard of. Rick, you don't give it just desserts. Has plenty of great stuff including Botticelli, Georgione, Bellinis, Perugino, and many many more.
Alan
Manalapan, NJ USA 07/26/02

bed and breakfast
my boyfriend and i made it to civita da bagnoregio in time for the donkey race this june. later we found a room at a beautiful bed and breakfast in bagnoregio called pucci romantico or romantico pucci. it is on the walk to civita from b. and it was very nice. the owner was a very sweet italian lady that also speaks english and she did everything possible to make sure we were very happy. i think at the time it was only 65 euros for the night.
heather boylen
atlanta, ga USA 07/25/02

Stresa — great for last night in Italy
A direct shuttle bus service (50 minutes and 7.95 Euros per person) from Stresa hotels direct to Milan's Malpensa Airport terminal makes Stresa the hands down best place to spend the last night before flying home from northern Italy. Your hotel can arrange it (first run is at 0630) An excellent lake location, good train service to the Matterhorn, great shopping for last minute gifts, several good restraunts and resonably priced hotels add to the attraction. The 3star Hotel Moderno was friendly and efficient and offered us a great double room with a balcony and breakfast for 85 Euro per night based on a 2-night stay.
Jerry Vaughn
Warner Robins, GA USA 07/21/02

Leaning Tower
A quick visit to the Leaning Tower IS possible if you just have one suitcase. Just hop on the bus across the street from the station and go directly to the Field of Miracles and the Tower. The bus stops right there — hop off, visit the Tower and church — and catch the bus right back to the station. It wasn't expensive — and not a big hassle either.
Ann McCann
Fairbanks,, AK USA 07/21/02

Cinque Terre Italy
Villa Margherita by the sea is now open. New e-mail address is :info@villamargherita.net www.villamargherita.net
Susan Sheridan
London, Uk 07/21/02

Visiting the leaning Tower of Pisa
I assume because of security, it is no longer possible to store luggage at the Pisa Railway Station, like the guide says. So if you are thinking of a quick whistle stop trip to the Leaning Tower forget it! Luggage can only be stored at the airport and it's a costly, time consuming process.
Peter Spring
Warrandyte, Vic Australia 07/21/02

ANTICA LOCANDA DEI MERCANTI- WHAT A RIPOFF
When we checked in, we were told that breakfast was included. When we checked out, we were charged E9 PER PERSON PER DAY!!! The owner, Paola Ora, just laughed and said, "People sometimes get confused with that." She refused to take it off the bill. Now I know why they don't take credit cards: too many people were having the charged adjusted. Look below for someone else who was overcharged. BE WARNED! DON'T STAY HERE!
mattylip
Philadelphia, PA USA 07/19/02

Italy 2002
I took my 2 teenage daughters to Italy June 2002 using all of recommendations from Rick Steve's Italy book.

Here are my critques: -Vernazza's Franco Maria's room overlooking the square was wonderful. -Siena was a disappointment. It seemed dark and dreary compared to the rest of Italy. Although, we stayed at Alma Dolmus it was nice and well located. -Rome's Hotel Adler was really nice. The service was great, the room clean and air conditioned. Their cappacino wasn't the best. -Venice, I highly recommend Hotel Paganelli. The room was nicely decorated, clean, AC and a great location. I'd return in a minute. -Milan's Hotel Gritti was great. I regret that we didn't spend more time in Milan. The shopping looked great. I underestimated how much I would like to see this city.

We did rent a car to drive to the Cinque Terre and Tuscany then drop in Rome. More warnings about driving in Italy would be helpful. The autostrada was well marked. The secondary roads are marked only by signs to towns. It really requires a very detailed map and a good map reading co-pilot.

We did find it a little humorous how many people we saw walking around with Rick's book. It instantly bonded us!
Karen
Indianapolis, in USA 07/18/02

Train travel
This book is worth every penny — no traveler should leave home without it. We spent 3 days in Rome before beginning our guided coach tour and everything we did and saw was exactly as advertised in the book.

The only exception was the train travel. It *is* extremely confusing and although the basics of fares, tickets, etc are covered in the book, there was only passing mention to supplements and reservations. We (2 adults, 4 children) took the EuroStar train from Rome to Naples with a 1st class 4-day Italy rail pass, thinking we simply get on the train and find a seat. Wrong! We got on, but we needed reservations on the ES trains to get a seat and avoid a hefty penalty fare paid to the conductor once on the train. Having a rail pass on the non-ES trains isn't a problem since you don't need reservations, but the ES trains require them for first class. You can get reservations at the station the day before (or sometimes the day of) your trip.

With our lesson learned, we made reservations for Pisa and Florence the next day. It was a magnificent journey and an unforgettable experience.

The ES train reservations should be clarified in future editions of the book. If you're traveling alone, it's easy to usually push your way to the front and get a seat in 2nd class, but if you're traveling with 4 kids, 1st class reservations are the way to go.

Except for that, the book was fantastic. We also had Rick's London and Great Britain books (we stayed in London an extra three days after the tour) and Rick just became one of the family. "Did you bring Rick?" and "What does Rick say?" were two commonly heard questions on our trip. From now on Rick's going to travel with us on all of our European vacations!
Roger Jaffe
San Diego, CA USA 07/18/02

Re : Cinque Terre Villa Margherita closed
Concerning the message of 06/06/2002 , Villa Margherita is not bankrupt is just temporarely closed due a change of the asset of the property. Villa Margherita by the sea will reopen before the end of the month of July 2002 Thank you The owner Federico Campodonico
Federico Campodonico
Levanto, Sp Italy 07/11/02

Sorrento and Rome
Back from what is becoming our annual trip to Italy. We loved Sorrento so much that we repeated it again this year. For the second time we stayed at il Nido hotel and continued our romance with the Persico family. Gianni and Dino couldn't have been more wonderful. There is nothing to say but raves for their hospitality. Momma cooks dinner and it is wonderful and reasonable. Found other visitors from hotels all over the area just coming in for dinner on the terrace that overlooks the Bay of Naples for miles. Didn't find it a problem getting to Sorrento with their hourly jittney service where we eiter hopped a train, bus or boat for sight seeing.

Stayed at Hotel Italia in Rome. Great location, friendly English speaking staff. The only problem was not with the hotel but with the city that doesn't keep their streets too clean. The staff and the accomidations more then make up for it. Be sure to ask for an airconditioned room. We stayed accross the street at the annex and in the main building. I prefer the main building.
Sandy
Boynton Beach, fl USA 07/10/02

Santa Margherita
We had a very enjoyable stay in Santa Margherita. We stayed in the Nuovo Hotel Garden. The room was large and very comfortable. The town was lovely and was close enough to visit the Cinque Terre.
C. Leopold
Baton Rouge, LA USA 07/08/02

Italian Lakes
Try Lake Orta. Small and very atmospheric. A budget priced hotel is Hotel Garni Contrada dei Monti right in the centre of town. It's quite new and quietly and conveniently situated. Rooms are lovely and a double is 80 euros single 70 euros, en suite. Beware however that breakfast is not worth the price so book a room only.The hotel staff are not friendly and you will receive no kind of a welcome at all. This is a great shame as the owners have spent a lot of time and money converting the building and all is tasteful and convenient. Sound proofing between rooms is inadequate, but as there are currently few guests than this shouldn't be too much of a problem.
Wendy Ashworth
Nr London, UK 07/04/02

Feedback
We just returned from 18 days in Italy and, overall, Rick Steve's book was great! The directions were not always clear and the hotel recommendations were not always great, but the sights and suggestions were invaluable!

HOTEL IDEALE in Assisi was a DISASTER!!! Although, they have a beautiful courtyard with a wonderful view, the people running the place were rude and unclean. The man that owns the place was dressed in an undershirt and watching a soccer game when we arrived and acted as though we weren't worth the bother of getting up out of his chair. He was extremely rude to our 17-year-old daughter because he thought she used more of his sugar (3 packets) than he preferred in her coffee!! Then he handled food with his bare hands and wiped silverware on his palms — once after just picking up a pile of grass outside!)without ever washing them.

The room was filthy — they must not remember that dust and dirt will accumulate under the beds because there was enough dirt, dust, and paper that it must have been at least a year since they looked under there! The toilet is in the shower and the shower floor is the bathroom floor, so you had to dry everything down before you could use the bathroom for any other reason at all!!!

The hotel is located just a half-block away from a bar...the Italians may not like drunk and noisy Americans, but they do a fine job of being drunk and noisy themselves and will go on until 4:00 am...and street noise is continuous. With no air conditioning, the windows must remain open (at least in June) in order to survive the heat, so noise and mosquitoes will make you miserable (the guy in the room next to us had a snoring problem that we had to share because of the open windows). I don't know who gave them 2 stars, but THIS PLACE IS A DUMP AND SHOULD BE AVOIDED LIKE THE PLAGUE!!!

The HOTEL MINERVA in Sorrento had a beautiful view with horrible overpriced food and dirty rooms! There was a black footprint in the bathtub the whole time we were there, the bathroom light didn't work, the hairdryer didn't work, and the shower leaked all over the bathroom floor. Definitely not a first-choice hotel on our next trip!

We stayed at two different places in Florence. The first was SOGGIORNO PEZZATI ALESSANDRA on Via Borgo San Frediano. This was not a place Rick Steves included in his book but the owner is the sister of another he does recommend. This was a nice, extremely clean place with easy access to everything. The owner was most accommodating and helpful!! There also is a restaurant on the corner called DANTE'S that has absolutely the best food we had in all of Italy!!!

The second place in Florence was the HOTEL UNGHERESE which was convenient to the airport (we were flying out the next day) and away from the center of town (making it less expensive) but a quick bus ride to the Duomo. It was more "neighborhood-like" which made it interesting. It was nice...very clean and the breakfast really good. The people there were also extremely friendly and helpful! This one was worth the money.

In Venice we stayed at the HOTEL GALLERIA. This place was okay but very cramped (we got a flat for 5 people so we also didn't have any air conditioning — temperatures were in the 90's!). For short stay, this was not a bad place.

HOTEL SPRING HOUSE in Rome was nice. It was convenient, clean, and air conditioned and the breakfast was good. Pretty good place.

The HOTEL DUOMO in Orvieto was wonderful! The bathroom smelled funky for some reason, but the place has been recently renovated and was very nice! The owners are also very friendly and helpful here. They speak very little English but they were quite accommodating! This is definitely a good choice!!!

HOTEL STAR in Milan was a pretty good place to stay. The people there were also friendly and helpful and the place was quite clean.

Definitely follow Ricks' advice and get tickets in advance for the Uffizi and the Accademia in Florence...it was hugely helpful. Also, it is a good idea to carry a wrap or shirt because some places are stricter than others about letting you in with a sleeveless shirt! We had to leave the Basilica in Venice to buy a t-shirt for our daughter so she could get in. We saw several people turned away at other places as well. We were told that it depends on who is at the door the day you go. Also, remember that Italians use their own clock when it comes to their closing hours. We went to a couple of places that decided to close a half an hour early or so early without warning. When riding trains, it saves money to take the Inter-City (IC)trains but they are crowded and not very clean...also air conditioning is unreliable. It's definitely worth taking the Euro Express if you can!

In general, based on our experiences on this trip and others in the past, if you're going to stay for more than a week, 3-star or better hotels are more comfortable. Also, bathrooms tend to be TINY (we stayed in 4 places where if you dropped something in the shower, you couldn't bend over to pick it up! Overall, we had a wonderful trip but there was an unexpected heat wave in June this year in Italy, with temps in the mid-90's. Be prepared for this possibility because ice and air conditioning are pretty scarce. If it's possible to make the trip in May or October/November, it would probably be a little more enjoyable...water is not cheap and it takes a lot of it during a hot day to be comfortable.
Anne D'Agostino
Chapel Hill, NC USA 07/04/02

ITALY WITH CHILDREN
Just returned from 14 day vacation with our children, ages 4 and 6. Used Rick Steve's book for almost all accomodations in Rome, Florence, Venice, Lake Como (Varenna) and Milan. My compliments to Rick for accuracy in descriptions. All went smoothly.

We travelled between cities by train using Kilometric tickets. All that travel for 4 only cost total of $240 for non-smoking, first class, air conditioned travel. Taxis cheap enough in Italy. We got used to wearing money belt. We only took money from ATMs because we know there is only minor charge by bank.

Florence most charming, and excellent shopping, as was Milan. Recommend tour of island of Murano when in Venice. Surprisingly, we almost never waited for anything — museums, restaurants, taxis, metro, trains. Only 5 minute wait to get into the museum to see David in Florence. There seemed to be police everywhere in cities, so we always felt safe. Kids had a great time chasing pigeons at the Duomo in Milan, taking the vaporettos in Venice, and eating gelato every night. View from Villa Cipressi in Varenna, and dinner there were highlights, but BE SURE their air conditioning is working WELL. I bought superb ties for only $9 which would cost $55 in the U.S. Don't expect elegance from the hotels in Rick's book, but only modest accomodations. It is nice when breakfast is included, but same breakfast offered at every hotel (croissant, yogurt, coffee and orange juice,cheese). We ran into a group tour of Rick Steve's at the Hotel Accademia in Florence, and all 5 persons I spoke with from the tour said they were having a fabulous time.

In conclusion, one day we will certainly return to Italy, but next looking at Switzerland and Austria, and we already went to Borders to look at Rick Steve's guide for those countries. Keep it up, Rick!
Peter Quinter
Boca Raton, FL USA 06/29/02

Italian Hotels
My husband and I just returned from 18 days in Italy. We consulted the Rick Steves' Italy guidebook and saw many travellers using Rick Steves' guidebooks everywhere. Just a comment on some hotel recommendations in the book.

Hotel Astoria, Venice — This hotel should be recommended only if some warnings are included. The rooms are spartan, the showers are icy, the breakfast is perfunctory; however, the location is good as it is steps from the Piazza San Marco.

Hotel La Scaletta, Florence — Might be worth mentioning the bizarre route one must take to get to one's room — drag your bag in the tiny lift to the reception desk and then down two flights of stairs to the room.

Hotel Palazzo di Valli, Sienna — A lovely 250 year old house with charming rooms and postcard views of the Tuscan countryside.

Hotel Santa Maria, Rome — An oasis of calm and quiet in the bustling Trasteverre area, especially the courtyard where breakfast is beautifully and meticulously served among the orange trees.

Hotel Punta Mesco, Monterosso (Cinque Terre area) — This charming, newly renovated hotel is not in the guidebook but we highly recommend it. The rooms are small but neat and new, with a small adjoining patio. The breakfast is generous and the breakfast room is lovely. Service is very nice provided by Roberto and Diego. Prices are reasonable.

Thanks for everything, Rick. Keep travelling. Anytime you need a roving correspondent, just let me know.
Victoria Smith
West Vancouver, BC Canada 06/28/02

Rome, Tuscany & Venice
Rome, Tuscany, Venice This was our third Italian trip and we enjoyed it as much as the first two. The following are comments related to sites listed in the Rick Steve's Italy 2002 guidebook. This was our 8th European trip and while we love the Rick Steves (RS) travel philosophy and his hotel/restaurant accommodations, (they always put you right in the area of the city or countryside that you want to be) we have grown weary of staying in hotels and eating in restaurants where it seems all other guests are American's carrying the RS guidebooks.

This year we rented apartments in Rome and Venice and stayed at an agriturismo near San Gimignano. I will comment on these accommodations on the Alternate Accommodation graffiti board, but will say here that we were very pleased as to how this worked out for us.

ROME We went on the Scala Reale tours of Ancient Rome and the Art of the Vatican. Both sites were a repeat for us and the Ancient Rome tour added much more depth than we had in our previous visit, where we had just used guidebooks to identify what we were visiting. The Ancient Rome tour was excellent and I would highly recommend it. We had Liz as a guide and she made the history of the area come alive. When we paid for our admission to the Colosseum we bought the special combination ticket mentioned in the RS guidebook. This ticket allowed us admission to the Palatine Hill which is also on the tour and to several other sites that we visited while in Rome. The Scala Reale tour guides make no mention of this combo ticket, so you'll need to remember to get it yourself.

The Art of the Vatican tour was very well done, but we had previously spent a day at the Vatican several years ago and rented CD players that gave fabulous info on the Vatican Museum rooms. For the price of these tours (50 E a person per tour) I would recommend the Ancient Rome tour, but use the CD guides at the Vatican. The CD players also let you focus on your interests in the Museum, not the preset tour interests. Scala Reale asks for your arrival and departure dates and then gives you suggested dates for the tours. We were offered a "free" (I use that term lightly since we also had to pay a $20 registration fee to Scala Reale) Get Acquainted walk for the day that we were to arrive in Rome. I replied via e-mail that the timing seemed a little tight and wondered whether we would be able to make it on time. The guy that responded said that he didn't see any problem and didn't seem to want to change it, even tho we were in Rome for six days. Sure enough, both of our flights to Rome were delayed resulting in us missing this walk, I would insist on scheduling this on a day other than your arrival, if possible.

Borghese Gallery — I would also recommend this visit, the sculpture is spectacular. We booked tickets in advance on-line before we left home — no problems picking up our tickets. We took a taxi to the park and it can drop you off a short walk from the Gallery. When you make reservations they ask that you pick up your tickets one hour before admission. The Borghese park was a nice walk during this time, and if you want to use a pit toilet (they seem to be vanishing from Europe! It was the only one that I saw this trip, even in the countryside of Tuscany.) there is one in the park that is brand new and even has an electronic eye flush. Seems kinda weird that they would employ new technology with an ancient system. This was also the only commode that I had to pay to use during our 2 week stay, another change in the new Europe!

National Museum of Rome — This was covered in our special combo Colosseum ticket, so it was well worth a look. We watched the old PBS series "I Claudius" again before our trip to get in the mood and it was exciting to see the frescoes from the walls of Livia's house on the upper floor. The sculpture was also great.

Cappuccin Crypt — Went a second time because my husband wanted to, once was enough for me. But go once if you've never been to a crypt with fully dressed skeletons hanging around. It is very easy to get to from Barberini metro stop.

Ostia Antica — Had an interesting experience here — allowed a day to go out to this ancient seaport, it's easy to get to, but once we were there we found out that the site was "On Strike" and closed. (This was also occurring at the Forum while we were in Rome and many people were disappointed.) That wasn't the worst of it, we were waiting at the OA train station for a train back to Rome when some local teenagers on the other side of the rail track starting throwing rocks and pebbles at us. Couldn't figure out why, but obviously Ostia Antica was not at all receptive to visitors that day, and in fact the populace was stoning them!

Because of the above experience we got back to the Pyramid train stop in Rome early, walked around and saw the Pyramid, and walked to the Baths of Caracalla which was also on our combo admission ticket purchased at the Coloseum. Interesting, and we had a lovely couple of hours of peaceful quiet away from the Roman traffic, but I wouldn't go out of my way to see it if you aren't nearby. From here it is an easy walk to the Circus Maximus and that is a good point to view the Palatine Hill structure from below.

Also had a very good time doing the "Night Walk Across Rome — Travestere to the Spanish Steps. After a great dinner in Travestere, we only made it to Trevi Fountain by 1:00 AM and we were beat. The problem here was most buses had stopped running and taxi's weren't to be found. We had a looong walk back to our apartment near Santa Maria Maggiore.

Umbria, Tuscany and surrounding area- Overall, let me say this was the highlight of my trip. Next trip to Italy I intend to rent in Tuscany or Umbria and just relax/enjoy. My 25 year old daughter much preferred the bright lights/big city of Rome and the uniqueness of Venice.

Orvieto Went here mainly to spend the night near Civita di Bagnoregio, however, it is worth a look in it's own right — great Duomo and we were able to see the beautiful Chapel of Brizio for free in the morning, before they start charging admission. Lots of ceramic shopping opportunities. Stayed at Hotel Duomo listed in RS book. It was very nice and worked well for our group of 3, (parents and daughter) since the "suite" includes a pullout sofabed plus a Queensize bed. We didn't make reservations and were able to get a room at about 3 in the afternoon in early May.

Civita di Bagnoregio This was one of the highlights of our trip. It was a truly magical experience and a beautiful spot. Highly recommend it if you can get there — might be hard without a car — follow RS suggestion and go to Lubriano first for a really breathtaking view of the valley and Civita — only takes a few extra minutes and is well worth it. It would be really cool to stay here, but when we were there Antico Forno was closed. There is now a souvenir shop in Civita which has really good prices on items that we saw for sale elsewhere in the region, and we observed how the locals no longer use donkeys, but motor scooters and small trucks to go up the "pedestrian" bridge — although we had to hoof it like donkeys — but it wasn't a difficult walk, even for middle agers not in triathlon shape. After touring Civita we had a great lunch at Hostaria del Ponte. We ate on the terrace with a million dollar view of Civita and really enjoyed it.

San Gimignano Our agritorismo was 2 km outside of SG so while we didn't make this an "event" to visit it, we pretty much saw the sights while having dinner there over four nights. That was a perfect time to visit, after the bus tours had gone for the day. It's a beautiful little town and the surrounding countryside is even more beautiful. I think the RS book doesn't give this town it's props — we much preferred SG to —

Siena — Did a day trip here and wish we had spent the time somewhere else in beautiful Tuscany. For this to be called a "hill town" is a stretch, it really is a pretty good size town/city. Lots of crowds, we did enjoy the doumo and museums. Did have some kind of mime character shoot a squirt gun of water (I hope) up my skirt for the amusement of all in the campo. Try to act composed when you don't see that coming. Didn't add to my enjoyment of Siena. For train travelers this may be a good option of getting a taste of Tuscany, but if you have a car, you know that this doesn't even come close to the beauty of hill towns such as:

Volterra — If you want Etruscan history they have a great museum and the town is interesting (every time they remodel or do road work they need to stop and excavate because they find more Etruscan ruins) lots of shopping too! We stopped at two Etruscan tombs just on the outskirts of town and were able to walk down into the tombs, pretty cool and virtually no one else there — this is not what every tourist is out doing!

Cortona — Loved it, if you have a car, enjoy the drive and lunch here. It is beautiful and I have the impression, rather a well heeled little town. We were "museumed out" the day we went to Cortona, just enjoyed soaking up the ambiance.

Florence — This time we made Florence a day trip, I think I would recommend staying there instead, having done both now. We did make reservations the day before for the Accademia and Uffizi, this worked brilliantly and it would be a major mistake to go without advance reservations. We were a little disappointed in the Uffizi, during lunch hours (our reservations were for 12:15) they started closing off rooms because they didn't have enough staff to cover them. A major site such as the Uffizi should be adequately staffed. Florence was packed with people, much more crowded in Spring than when we had previously visited in Fall time. There is so much more to do and see in this city than one day allows, so I would give it more time than we did if you have never been before. We had no problem driving into the city and parking underground at the train station. RS makes it sound like a nightmare, but does give excellent directions, we had no problem finding the right location to park.

Venice — I loved it the first time when we had been there several years ago in Autumn, weather was perfect, in spring it was like being on the inside of a terrarium. Very humid and uncomfortable. Besides the usual, wonderful sites, this time we spent a day touring the islands of: Torcello (not worth going to — they have an enforced route to the old church and back to the vaporetto stop, you can not get off this path unless you jump into a canal to see what else is on this island. They charge to go into the church and everything surrounding it and then march you back to the vaporetto- skip it) Murano — kind of a mini Venice — not worth going to for glass purchases if all you are buying is souvenirs (can buy cheaper in Venice) if you have more serious purchases in mind than this is the place. It was nice to stroll around tho. Burano — cute but again it's all about selling you stuff, here it's lace. In sum, only investigate the Lagoon islands if you have alot of time in Venice — we had 5 days so it was an OK thing to do.

We like the Peggy Guggenheim Art Museum, it is worth a stop, especially if you've read about her wild life. There was a great Jackson Pollock exhibit at the Museo Correr — look for current exhibits. Also strolled the Ghetto, Fish Market and San Paolo areas, be sure to try to keep your balance standing up on a traghetto. We did not buy a weekly vaporetto pass, didn't need it because we walked almost everywhere. The day we went to the islands we bought a 24 hr family pass. We were able to get to the airport early in the morning using the Alilaguna boat — no problem.
Marilyn
Big Rock, IL USA 06/24/02

Hotels in Venice
Re: Italy 2002: it's a great guide and is really helping plan an upcoming trip to Venice and the Dolomites. One problem: the website given for the Hotel Galleria in the Accademia area of Venice actually is a website for X-rated materials (my Italian isn't good enough to know what they're selling but the photos are pretty clear). What is the correct website? Thank you very much.
Pamela Zimmerman
Philadelphia, PA USA 06/23/02

Chisone Valley — Piedmont
For a real "back door" experience try the Waldensian Valleys in the mountains west of Torino. The Chisone Valley was beautiful and each small village seems untouched by time (although there are signs along the way preparing for the 2006 Olympics). We stayed at the Hotel Valentino in Perosa Argentina — very economical, with clean yet small rooms. The hotel restaurant prepares fantastic food at reasonable prices. Not much English spoken in these remote areas, but if you seek beautiful scenery and rustic Piedmontese charm and hospitality I recommend it highly. The roads through the valleys are narrow but not heavily travelled.
Craig Sale
Schaumburg, IL USA 06/19/02

Albergo Olivedo, Varenna
We were in Varenna for a few nights as part of a European trip.We didn't stay in the Albergo Olivedo but had dinner there one night. The owner Laura, who took the orders was very difficult to deal with. There was a menu posted outside but that was the last one I saw. She would come to the table and would recite what do you want pasta rice, meat fish, wine,what sides etc. I asked to see a menu several times but she ignored me and would just continue to recite the nights offerings until I made a choice. Of course you wouldn't know how much anything cost or that the sides were extra.

The one question I managed to get in was about the costeletta Milanese. On the outside menu I noticed the English translation for it listed as a veal chop. I assumed being a chop it had a bone, she informed me no it was a cutlet and did not have a bone. I ordered it and it turned out to be very small and yes to have a big bone, and the cost was 15 Euros. All this after having just driven down from Germany and Austria where we had several delicous Weiner Schnitzel that were three times the size, had no bone, came with sides, and cost less than what she served. When she came with the check and we asked her about the bone, she changed her story to, one veal dish has a bone, the other doesn't.

I noticed the same routine at all the other tables. No menu, just her asking what do you want pasta, meat fish, wine etc. To the Americans she spoke English. To the Germans she spoke German. Sadly there were no Italians dining there that night.

Luckily we did find other local restaurants where there were menu's, good food and Italian people eating. To be fair while her first course Gnocchi Bolognese was very good, overall the cost and the small size of her second course and most of all her attitude makes this place a definite, skip it.
Anthony
Brooklyn, NY USA 06/18/02

Left luggage at Pisa
The left luggage office and lockers at Pisa train station are closed and likely will remain so — the woman in the tourist office said it was due to there being an Italian military base some 15k away (seems kind of wacky to me, but there it is). If you still want to do the tower, you have two options: 1) Haul yourself out to the airport and drop the bags there, or 2) Take your bags with you. We opted for #2, took a taxi to the tower and then nursed the bags at a nearby restaurant while we individually toured the tower and Duomo. Not ideal, but it worked.

Note that it appears that this situation is peculiar to Pisa — the left luggage office in Florence (at least) was functioning as normal.
Ian
Oakland, CA USA 06/17/02

Best and Worst of Italy
My husband and I just came back from a jammed-packed, 10 day trip to Italy. We visited Venice, Florence, Cinque Terre, Siena, Orvieto, Civita di Bagnoregio, and Rome. Here's our best and worst list:

BEST PLACE TO STAY Without a doubt, the best place was B & B Pascucci in Rome, just steps away from St. Peter's and Piazza Navona. Go to http://www.cross-pollinate.com for more information.

BEST GELATO While the gelato was great everywhere in Italy, the lemon gelato at Micheangelo's in Venice was absolutely divine.

BEST BARGAIN For just 7 euros, you can get a plate of mussels, focaccia bread, and your choice of pasta or pizza at Navona Notte in Rome.

BIGGEST RIP-OFF The 60 euro fish we ordered at Ristorante Al Buso next to the Rialto Bridge in Venice. Exchange booths and the 1st class train ticket from Venice to Florence were runner-ups.

BEST AUDIO-GUIDE The audio-guide at the Borghese Gallery in Rome is a must.

WORST AUDIO-GUIDE The one at the Roman Colesseum was worthless.

LATEST TRAIN The train from Monterosso to Vernazza was about 1 hour late.

BEST MUSEUM/GALLERY The Borghese Gallery was well worth the hike from the Spagna metro stop (we took the long way). We actually stayed there for the full 2 hours.

BEST CINQUE TERRE TOWN Riomaggiore, with Manarola in close second. These towns were intimate, quaint, and not overrun with tourists.

WORST CINQUE TERRE TOWN We would have to disagree with Rick on this one. Vernazza was crowded and lacked the charm of the smaller towns.

MOST OVERRATED RESTAURANT Although Trattoria Dal Billy in Manarola was highly recommended by readers, we thought was food was on the salty side. The seafood was mediocre.
Christine
Rockville, MD USA 06/17/02

Milan, last stop
Advice for Milan. If you are catching a flight out of Malpensa Airport to the USA (or anywhere in North or South America) chances are the flight will leave early (Ours at 7:25 AM) Unfortunately, the airport is a good 50-60 minutes outside of town and trains do not start running until 6:00 AM. The only viable option is the shuttle buses that leave from the Centrale Train station (Mentioned in Rick's books) In May, the first bus leaves at 5:00 AM, no traffic makes the trip only about 40 minutes. (Cost is 4.50 Euro vs. an 80 Euro Taxi!)

Plan to stay in a Hotel near the station, pick up a list from the TI. Important: Make sure you ask the Hotel if you are able to get out the door at 4:30 AM or so. Several we asked at we would not have been able to. Wound up staying at Hotel Mondial, a two star, at Via Vitruvio 24, for only 65 Euro. The manager and his wife stay at the hotel and had no problem getting up to let us out (they seem to do it often) Also ate at the Brek cafeteria near the station, surprisingly good healthy food at a good price.
Paul
IA USA 06/16/02

Hotel Albergo Olivedo, Varenna
Would like to share a comment about the Hotel Albergo Olivedo, Varenna on Lake Como — our reservation was for One double w/ bath & lake view and one double w/ bath & no lake view. (17 Euro difference in price of 2 rooms) Turns out the room with lake view was super, on the third level of the building. The one with no lake view was on the fifth level, five very steep flights of steps, no elevator, no assistance with carrying bags available from hotel staff, room had a tiny window at floor level and was located up just under the roof of the building. We felt that we should have been warned of the location of the room, rather than being told "no lake view."
Mary S. Johnson
St. PetersburgL, FL USA 06/16/02

Italy in May/June
Just returned from 12 days in Italy visiting Rome, Cinque Terre, Florence and Venice. Stayed at Hotel Italia in Rome. This hotel was adequate but the bathroom was extremely small and our room had only a small window which opened up on to a dark and noisy alley way.

In Cinque Terre we stayed in Levanto in the apartment at Villa Margherita. The B & B is closed but the apartment, which was beautiful, may still be available. We really liked Levanto and felt it was very charming and a perfect place from which to enjoy the Cinque Terre.

In Florence we stayed at the Hotel Accademia. This hotel was perfectly located and our room was very quiet.

Our best hotel, by far, was the Locanda Barbarigo in Venice. We had a beautiful and huge room with a modern large bathroom. Locanda Barbarigo is ideally located only a few minutes walk from San Marco and is reasonably priced. I would recommend it highly. Italy was fabulous.
Donna
USA 06/14/02

Hotel Marin — Venice
I used your book to plan a 2 week trip for my parents anniversary. They had an amazing time!

The only disappointment was Hotel Marin in Venice. The hotel was noisy and the hosts were plain rude. They called my parents and two other sets of guests "stupid Americans" to their faces on more than one occassion. One night the owners were up talking loudly late into the night and my father went and asked if they would mind closing the door or speaking more quietly. They said no, and my father returned to the room (it was their last night and he didn't feel the need to create a fuss) The owner chased him up the stairs and went into their room yelling at them. Highly inappropriate behavior, no matter what the country or circumstance.

I have seen complaints about this hotel elsewhere on this board and I hope you remove it to save other travellers the bad experience. Otherwise they had a wondeful time and LOVED your book. Thanks!
Manisha
Warren, NJ USA 06/14/02

Hotel Rooms
We just returned home from 17 wonderful days in Italy thanks to Rick's book. We were traveling with our 16 year old son, so our hotels had to have a triple room. All had air-conditioning and private bathroom.

Venice — Stayed at Hotel Campiello. The room was very nice and had character and charm. It was clean. The staff was kind and helpful. The location was near St. Mark's but right off the main thoroughfare so it was quiet. Would stay there again.

Florence. Stayed at Hotel Silla. We had a wonderful HUGE room with very high ceilings. It was like staying in a castle because the room was so large. (Maybe this is because there were 3 or us) Great bathroom with tub. They had the best breakfast buffet on a rooftop terrace. Staff was very helpful. We would highly recommend this hotel.

Rome- Stayed at Hotel Paba. This is a small 6 room hotel. Alberta, the lady who runs it, made it seem like home. She speaks excellent English and was a huge help to us. It is immaculate and in a wonderful location near the Forum and Colosseum. We asked for a quiet room and she gave us a room at the back away from the noise of the street. This is a great place to end those fabulous days spent walking and walking in Rome.

Sorrento — Hotel Minerva. This hotel was our only disappointment. We spent 3 terrible nights there. The main lobby of the hotel is on the 5th floor. The rooms above the 5th floor seemed nice and maybe even quiet. Our room was on the level above the street. Yes, we had a beautiful view with a balcony, but one could almost touch the tops of trucks that roared up the hill beneath our balcony. The room was dirty. Long black hairs were everywhere..and none of my family has long black hair!! The toilet had a terrible odor. The staff was not helpful. I would not recommend Hotel Minerva.

Orvieto — Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini (not in Rick Steve's book). Unique, recently refinished rooms in an old building. Very nice. Marsha from Houston
Marsha
Houston, TX USA 06/14/02

Italy in May
After being pickpocketed (thank God for our money belts), almost ripped-off by the $ exchange booth (at train station we were shorted $100 us, but caught them), and run over in Rome...we will still go back! It was an experience of a lifetime and the hints and tips Rick's books offered were worth their weight in gold (and then some).

In two weeks we visited Rome, Orvieto, Siena, Florence, and Venice. You definitely have to stay at least one night in Orvieto and Siena to be able to truly appreciate what they have to offer.

Orvieto was, by far, our favorite town. The word "charming" doesn't even give it enough credit, especially with virtually no tourist here! It also has 360 degrees of "WOW" view that surrounds Orvieto.

When we arrived in Siena I was a bit disappointed after all the praise Rick gave it; but after we walked the cobbled streets, the town's charisma and allure definitely came out. In Siena, stay at Albergo Bernini's spare apartment (his sister has the apartment); it had a wonderful view & is very peaceful. Also, for a wonderful & authentic Sienese meal we did a one night cooking class. For very little $ at Gianluca Pardini's Italian Cuisine Academy we cooked a fabulous meal and took home aprons & all the recipes. Highly recommended!!

Overall the best hotel we stayed in was in Venice at the Locanda Novo. Beautiful and priced modest.

Next trip we go on we'll definitely rely on Rick Steves' books!! Thanks for removing our fears and showing us the true Italian lifestyle.
Angy
Houston, TX USA 06/13/02

Hotel Oceania in Rome and Siena
We lived in Italy in 1997, and found your guidebooks for Italy, France and Great Britain to be very accurate and helpful. Your evaluations of hotels and bed-and-breakfasts has been very accurate.

Perhaps you could add a note though about the use of email to make reservations at bed-and-breakfasts. There seems to be some variability in the ability of the hotel operators to read and respond to emails as part of their normal business practices. I thought I had everything worked out with the Hotel Oceania in Rome (exchanged emails to reserve a room, then sent them an email with my credit card info to confirm the reservation), then found out a week before the trip that they hadn't received it or lost it or something. Lesson learned: Be careful to get a written confirmation that the room has been reserved. Probably better to use FAX for the final room confirmation.

About Siena. Gee, there are a couple of communications below that are critical of Siena. I lived in Siena during 1997 and thought it was absolutely fabulous. Rick, my experience is the same as yours. To really appreciate Siena, you need to stay overnight there, and walk through the town in the evening with the streaming masses of Sienese out for a stroll after dinner (particularly on Friday or Saturday evening). If an American tourist is primarily interesting in seeing sights, maybe Siena will be a disappointment (although the town square is incomparably beautifu, and the cathedral in Siena is incomparably bizarrel). But, if an American wants to be immersed in Italian life for an evening in a mid-sized Italian town, Siena is hard to beat.
Charles Goochee
Doylestown, PA USA 06/13/02

Vatican and Rome
Regarding the Vatican, we found it best to visit St. Peters square and the cathedral first (and early) It opens at 7 AM. We were able to walk around, take our time, and see everything with no crowds. The line for the Vatican Museum starts early, but security and ticketing moves quickly. Plan on seeing most of the museum, there is really only one circuitous path with a few optional loops through some galleries, and ending with the Sistine Chapel. Crowds are a problem in the museum, not a relaxed quiet tour, but a must-see in Rome. We then hopped off the Metro at the Spanish Steps and did Ricks "night walk" in reverse, and in the afternoon, stopping along the way for lunch. Overall, an easy but packed day in Rome.
Paul
IA USA 06/11/02

Albergo Ristorante Olivedo in Varenna
I was very surprised by Stewart Cohen's post regarding Laura, the owner of Albergo Olivedo in Varenna. My husband and I, and 2 other couples stayed there last spring and found Laura to be very accommodating, friendly and helpful. Maybe Stewart just caught her on a bad day.
Angela
USA 06/11/02

Hotel Aberdeen phone number update
The telephone number listed in the 2002 books doesn't seem to work for Hotel Aberdeen in Rome. Here is the number from their email — don't drop the "0" when dialing from the US like you need to for other countries: Hotel Aberdeen TEL +39/06/4819340
Jim
Corvallis, OR USA 06/11/02

A Warning About The Vatican Museum...
Please go to the Vatican Museum early!!! My husband and I were a little surprised to find out they stop admitting people at 2:30 and close at 3:30!
Karen
Ashland, Or USA 06/10/02

Cinque Terre Restaurant Recommendation
Best meal in the Cinque Terre, maybe of the trip, was in Riomaggiore at the La Lanterna (as opposed to the La Lampera). This is a small (half dozen tables outside, less than a dozen inside) restaurant right on the harbor. They have easily the most varied menu based on the local seafood and traditional dishes, all wonderfully, perfectly prepared. The staff is great, friendly, and helpful. The only hitch (not for the lucky few though) is that reservations are a must (1 to 2 days ahead). They reserve the tables for what appears to be one seating per night, so you may be eating in a half or less full restaurant. The reason given is that the kitchen is very small, so the meal stretches out (slow preparation for the cynics). We didn't mind in the least.
Paul
IA USA 06/10/02

Cinque Terre, The good and bad.
First, let me say that the Cinque Terre is a fantastic stop, loved it two years ago, also hit it twice this trip, 3 days once, two days the next...however..."supply and demand" is taking it's toll. Some observations:

Prices seem to be significantly more in at least Vernazza than our other stops in Italy, for Internet (4.50 Euro for half hour), laundry (4.50 to wash, 4.50 euro to dry-but not that well. Restaurants were much more, for the quality, with fewer cheap options. Even a micro room with a bath, no view, will cost you 60 Euro; although prices for the quality of the room vary wildly based on demand.

During the day, crowds are a problem. Even in May, on a Sunday, the Vernazza train platform was packed shoulder to shoulder waiting for the train. Many more tour groups for the day in the towns.

Much to still love, though. Evenings still settle down, the Blue Marlin is still a great place for cheap eats and killer Sangria. Bar Centrale in Riomaggiore serves drinks...WITH ICE!

We stayed the second time in Riomaggiore, and loved it. Grocery stores, off the beaten path, in Monterosso make great picnics.
Paul
IA USA 06/10/02

Pisa Update
We did a "whistle-stop" tour of Pisa on our way from Cinque Terre to Siena just this late May. The tower and "Field of Miracles" is well worth at least a short stop. A couple of updates to the Guide:

There is NO place to store bags at the train station (Pisa Centrale) The lockers are/were "Out of Order" and the Baggage Office is closed. A sign noted that bags could be checked at the airport (short bus ride); but someone had also written in "at 6 Euro a bag".

Bus 3 goes to the Field of Miracles and the tower, as does a "Bus A", Ignore the bus stop for bus 3 and A in front of the train station and go across the street and wait in front of the hotel (like Rick's book says) The stop in front of the train station says it goes to the tower, but the bus took us on a loop to the airport, then dropped us off in front of the hotel. We went and lugged the bags with us, took turns watching the bags, and still saw a great sight that was worth the hassle.
Paul
IA USA 06/10/02

Italy
We just got back from Varenna having stayed at Albergo Ristorante Olivedo (one of Rick's recommendations). While the hotel is charming and the lake views are enchanting, the person who runs the hotel, Laura, can be rude, unpleasant, and difficult to deal with. If you plan to stay there, be prepared. We were not and she definitely put a damper on what otherwise was a wonderful time.
Stewart Cohen
Scottsdale, AZ USA 06/09/02

Italy and Rick Steves' Book
Just returned from two weeks visiting Assisi and the hill towns in the book, Umbria and Siena, the Chinque Terre and Como. Met people from Canada and US with your book and everyone loved it. Every restaurant you recommended was great. We were not that impressed with the Chinque Terre as we were in Provence last year and thought it was much nicer there. The most beautiful church we visited was in Santa Margherita Ligure just of the main street. It was breathtaking! We met a couple who did not have your book and I ripped out the Florence section and gave it to them. They were delighted. Thanks for the wonderful information which made it so easy for first timers to Italy.
Tom and Linda Bell
Sewell, N. J. USA 06/08/02

Antica Locanda dei Mercanti, Milan
Just made a reservation by fax at Antica Locanda dei Mercanti for three nights in October. Everything went smoothly, and my questions to the hotel via email were answered very quickly. One thing to note: Although you can indeed use a credit card to hold your room reservation, they only accept cash for payment, which is contrary to what's written on p. 306 of Rick's Italy 2002 book. I will report back on my experience at the hotel itself (and that of Hotel Aberdeen in Rome, which Rick also recommended) when I get back!
Jeannie
San Mateo, CA USA 06/08/02

Italy; Venice; Hotels
If you are traveling to Venice and are thinking of staying at the Hotel Wildner I have one word of warning . . . bedbugs! That's what my wife and I experienced ther on a three night stay in May. There are much nicer hotels for the price
James Gillespie
Morristown, NJ USA 06/07/02

Italy — restaruants and accomodations
My friend sharon and I just got back from a 2 week vacation in Italy. As always, your guidebook was a huge help. We were amazed at how many fellow travelers we met in various cities that were also using your guidebook!While in Venice we stayed at the Hotel Guerrato — very nice staff, clean, good location. In florence we stayed at Hotel Maxim — very spacious rooms, nice staff, excellent location. In Sorrento, we stayed at Hotel Del Corso which by far was our favorite hotel we found in your guidebook. The staff was very helpful and the hotel was beautiful with several outdoor balconies. We ate at the Hotel Loreley for a spectacular view of the Mediterranean and had a very nice meal and excellent service. In Rome, we ate at the Ristorante alla Rampa near the spanish steps on two occasions because the food was excellent. While eating there, we saw 3 couples at nearby tables using your guidebook so I guess everyone followed your recommendation to eat there. The most underrated place we found in your guidebook was Sorrento. We found it to be beautiful, charming, and a great escape from all the larger cities we had visited — it is definitely somewhere we both want to return to on our next visit! Thanks again for all your great tips and recommendations for hotels and restaurants...this is our third trip to europe and we have used your guidebooks for all 3 because of the useful and accurate information — keep up the good work!
Danielle Paoletti
Elizabeth, PA USA 06/07/02

accommodation
I have recently returned from 5 nights in Venice and would like to recommend Hotel Antico Capon — budget accommodation that is basic but very clean with extremely friendly staff, particularly Elias and Guiseppe, who speak fluent English, a definite bonus! The hotel is located in Campo Santa Margarita which is right in the heart of Venice, close to all the sights and very lively with bars open well past midnight. It's a great place to sit and people watch and down a glass or two of Prosecco!
karen davies
UK 06/07/02

Cinque Terre — Villa Margherita Closed
Villa Margherita in Levanto just cancelled my reservations because they are bankrupt. "Unable to receive guests starting May 4th."
Robert Martinez
Kirkland, WA USA 06/06/02

Italy Tour — May 2002
We visited Venice, Bologna, Rome, Santa Margherita & Florence. This site was a great help in planning, especially with hotels — Thanks! Here's some feedback from our trip:

Venice: Hotel Al Piave (139E) had a small room, skimpy breakfast and thin walls. Don't need to know the other guests that well. Disappointing!

Rome: Hotel Italia (93E) had excellent service and we really appreciated the ceiling fan. The shower was the worst of our trip. It was in a tiny bathtub and trickled out cold water. We enjoyed the "Through Eternity" twilight tour of Rome. Book online in advance for a 10% discount.

Florence: Residence Bellevue (100E) was our favorite "hotel". The friendly owner has only 8 rooms, but they are huge, clean and quiet. Breakfast is with a coupon at the coffee shop next door. Convenient to train, but no elevator to 4th floor. Calling ahead for reservations at the Uffizi & Accademia is best. We called from Rome 2 days ahead and had no problem getting a time.

TRAINS: We trained to all cities and bought tickets at the station that day or in advance. The only exception was in Florence when we used the Amex office. We didn't buy a Eurorail or other type of travel pass. We found individual tickets for both of us was still cheaper than a pass, even with 1st class. Before leaving home, we printed off the schedules from the Italian rail web site...this was helpful for explaining to ticket agents what we needed and when we missed connections since many trains ran late.

There is a lot more detail & photos on our web site: www.mywebpage.netscape.com/smithsaa/ItalyItinerary.html
Amy Smith
Erfurt, Germany (US Expat), NC USA 06/06/02

Re reservations AIlimandi Hotel
You need at least 4 months in advance to make a reservation at this hotel. I tried for Oct. and Irene said they were already fully booked. Wow!
Gord Bradbury
Ancaster, Ont. Can. 06/05/02

Italy
Just got back from Italy. Rick's Italy 2002 guide was right on. Stayed with Tonino Basso in Vernazza. Clean room, no view, so what? I was only in there to sleep anyway. Beleforte bar in Vernazza is one of the top five places in the world to drink beer and watch the sun go down. Rivals Rick's Cafe in Negril, Jamaica and Harry's in Encinada, Mex. May have to start a new list. Much research. Rome was a museum. Rick's tip about the secret door out the back of the Sistine Chapel was way cool. Didn't have to fight the crowds and it shoots you right into St Peter's. Firenze was a museum too, but you could have fun there as well. The back side of the Duomo Piazza in Firenze may be the best unofficial amphitheater for impromptu jazz in Italy. Awesome accoustics. We danced till the roosters crowed. Venice is overrated. San Marco square is pretty cool with the competing bands. Prepare to waltz, though, unless you can weasel a swing dance out of one of them.

Went to Zurich on the Trene. Up through the east side of Switzerland this time though. The train ride from Tirano, Italy to Chur, Switzerland through the Bernina Pass is worth the trip all by itself. Yodeled all the way. Don't know why it doesn't get any more ink than it does though. Beats the socks off the west side of Switzerland.
Toddrod
Atlanta, Ga USA 06/05/02

Cinque Terre, Sorrento, Pisa, Orvieto
Sunday travel suggestion...We noted that many towns have special events on Sundays making travel more hectic. When in Siena there was a soccer game. When in Pisa there was a regatta. In Cinque Terre, the trail between Manarola and Corniglia is closed indefinitely(were told for at least a year) due to a woman falling to her death over the edge. We took the higher trail which, although was more difficult, had a great views and was well worth it. In Monterosso we stayed one night at Hotel Palme which is very overrated and the staff unfriendly. We switched to Villa Steno which was wonderful. Not only is the staff very friendly and helpful, the hotel is lovely. The staff at Hotel Baia is very rude. Belvedere Rest. there is very good. In Sorrento, we stayed at Settimo Cielo, which had wonderful views and good price. La Minervetta was a great choice for dinner(next door to Settimo Cielo). In Pisa La Buca had very good food. In Orvieto, Al SanFrancesco had very good food.
Ellen Lewchenko
Thousand Oaks, CA USA 06/04/02

Hotel Bretagna, Florence
I'm sorry to hear that someone had a bad experience at the Hotel Bretagna. For the record, my husband and I stayed at this hotel for three nights in mid-May. Our room at this hotel was more basic than others we stayed in, but it was clean and cost a bit less than some other places where we stayed. We enjoyed the location of the hotel and having breakfast in their dining room overlooking the Arno.
Kelly
Atlanta, GA USA 06/03/02

Hotel Bretagna, Florence
Just returned from a three week tour of Italy. The Hotel Bretagna in Florence was a terrible disapointment. We'd made reservations for four nights. Deskman gave us our key, and when we went to our room we were shocked to find there was no window. Well, okay, there was a small window, the bottom sill of which was seven feet from the floor. Access to the window was a makeshift platform that held a NOISY air condition unit, the window looked out to a rooftop, which you couldn't see because the exhaust portion of the air conditioner blocked both the view and much sunlight from entering, and the outside sill was covered in pigeon droppings.

We were horrified, but reacted politely. "Maura" had said the room did not have the river view we requested, but we were not prepared for this. The following morning, I asked if it were possible to change rooms and they said no, even though three rooms were being vacated. (I had made the reservations in early February, and this was the middle of May.)

We fled the Hotel Bretagna after one night, and had to agree to pay for two nights even though we had only stayed one, and even though we observed a fellow inquire as to the availability of a room — they told him they were booked solid.

By the way, all other recomendations in Rick Steve's Italy were right on the money, both restaurants and hotels. Hotel Oceania in Roma and La Torreta in Manarola were particularly delightful and beyond our expectations.
Chris Hager
Los Angeles, CA USA 06/02/02

Bellagio — Tony The Wine King
I am sad to report that Tony The Wine King that Rick mentions in his book for Bellagio, Lake Como, recently passed away. When we visited Bellagio a couple of weeks ago, his store was closed and it does not appear that anyone will take over for Tony. Rick will need to update his book for next year.
David
Fort Lauderdale, FL USA 06/02/02

Sorrento — Warning — Hotel Minerva
Just returned from 3 weeks in Italy and had great luck with all hotels reserved from Rick's book except Hotel Miverva in Sorrento. When we arrived, they informed us they had given away our room even though we had reserved with a credit card a few months in advance and I had the e-mail to prove it. We reserved a total of 13 hotels in Italy in the same manner and the only problem we had was with this hotel. It is my understanding the hotel had been recenly renovated, and my guess is they did not want to honor Rick's doscount rate, as it was clearly full of British folks at the time we visited (probably paying full rate). The management seemed to care less about us. Watch our for this hotel! Otherwise, Rick's book was right on everything! Italy is wonderful!
David
Fort Lauderdale, FL USA 05/31/02

Rick's video — Rome etc.
My husband and I just returned from a trip to Sicily, then Sorrento, Pompeii and Rome. We just watched Rick Steves' video on Rome, Pompeii and the Amalfi etc. It was like being there again. This was our third visit to the Sorrento area. It was fun to see the waiter who served us on two of our visits to the Hotel Lorelei in Sorrento. I've painted three watercolors at the beautiful spot. Our own video is fun to watch, but Rick's is better. Visit my Italian and Sicilian websites by going to "Travel Links" and Personal websites on this site. We are happy to share any travel info we are able to about Italy and Sicily.
Kathleen
Burlington, NC USA 05/29/02

Milan Hotel-The Best Hotel
"The Best Hotel" is very clean and a good value. It was much nicer than expected.
Jeanne
Kalamazoo, MI USA 05/28/02

driving Italy
The general guidebook on Italy skimps on driving information. I just drove Zurich-Como-Venice, then boarded a ship for Istanbul, then reversed direction. I had the perfect car — Opel Astra 1.6 and enjoyed the freedom and the surprising saving over rail travel (I'd always favored Euro rail as the most cost-efficient mode, but the car cost me just over half the rail fare). But your book leaves out a few key points. Open stretches of the Autostradas are posted 130kph limit, but virtually no one pays any attention. Apparently it's just a suggestion, with no enforcement — which is okay with me. I was going up to 180kph and still being passed by Volkswagen Golfs, Jettas, and Sciroccos. Trying to find one's way through an Italian town or village can be maddening, as the directional signs are ALL posted on the far side of the intersections where the turns must be made. No advance notice, and as everyone drives as fast as possible, one is always being tailgated. The only solution I found is to simply drive slowly into the intersection and ignore the impatience behind. The book does mention Mestre — very briefly — in the same breath with Venice, but it deserves more attention. One can stay much more cheaply in Mestre yet be across the causeway by bus or train in 10 to 30 minutes. Also, the quite secure parking garage in Mestre is conveniently opposite the train station, and costs 4 euros per day compared with about 19 euros at the Venice garage.
John P. Tiernan
Greenwich, CT USA 05/28/02

Italy Vacation
My wife and I spent three weeks in Italy. All three weeks were with relatives that I found through Genealogy and the Internet. We were 100 kilometers south of Rome in a town called Monte San Giovanni Campano, in the province of Frosinone. I used Rick's rucksack/backpack and packed light per Rick's advice and glad we did. My wife used the wheeled bag, because she didn't want to carry her bag on her back. I realized that would be my complaint also after awhile. So when we returned back to the states, I ordered Rick's wheeled bag and now waiting for our next trip abroad. I also took Rick's Phrase book and his latest Rome book. As it was, I didn't need either one of them because my cousin took us on a personal tour of Rome and Pompei. She knew all the streets and back alley's for shortcuts. A lot of our personal tour did coincide with Rick's book, so it was more or less on target. We did the complete Rome city tour in two eight hour day's. As far as the phrase book, there were a lot of words that I would have wanted to know in Italian that were not listed, so I just winged it. My cousin knew fair English and we got by beautifully. I will continue to refer to Rick's web site for advise.
John Evangelisti
LORAIN, OH USA 05/28/02

no luv in Siena
Siena — we did not 'luuv' Siena but definitely see the Palio film at Cinema Moderno. Uffizi — great works of art in a dingy building, run by an aloof thoughtless staff. Pisa (leaning tower)- worth the trip, even in the rain.
Mary Chou
boston, ma USA 05/27/02

Vernazza
Spent 3 wonderful "chill-out" days in Vernazza, from May 18th to 21st. Called 2 days ahead & got a room (65 stairs!) with one of Rick's recommendations, Nicolina. Not a room with a view, but after the train from Florence to La Spezia, then on to Vernazza, the only view we were interested in was the one from inside our eyeballs!) However, we were VERY lucky to get the room, even two days in advance. While Rick says that hotels/rooms don't want to reserve more than a few days in advance, showing up and asking around (as advised in the 2002 book) is definitely not workable. We met one couple who took this advice having to take the train back to La Spezia (late in the day) to try and find a place to stay. We had seen these folks all during the afternoon, suitcases in tow, looking for a room, when we spoke to them. And the word in the cafes (Blue Marlin) was that there were no rooms anywhere (at least 10 people had inquired that afternoon.) Our time in Vernazza was just magical, but we were among the very fortunate to have found accommodation only 2 days before our arrival. In the next edition of your book, I'd hesitate to advise just showing up in the Cinque Terre and asking around for a room the same day that you need it; even early in the season, it's very crowded and accommodations are scarce.
Carol Curry
Lake Helen, FL USA 05/26/02

Siena
On a recent visit to Italy, we visited the highly touted Siena. We found the city quite lacking in charm, crowded and overall rather dingy. We visited the Duomo (really the only reason to go there; Il Campo's cobblestones were littered with sun-seeking bodies and rip-off restaurants. The only bright spot was a fantastic pizza restaurant on a remote side street (and the ONLY pizza we ate in Italy!). Can't understand why folks "luuuv Siena". Wish we had spent our day in Montalcino. Maybe we were spoiled after spending 2 days in Pienza...
Carol Curry
Lake Helen, FL USA 05/26/02

Cinque Terre trip: a success!! thanks to Rick
Just come back from 5Terre: the best restaurant experience of our 3-week trip was in Levanto at Taverna Garibaldi. Excellent food, service and populated by locals who made us feel at home (shared their after-dinner liquor Limoncino or the Grappa, take an espresso or a Cappuccino!!!). The owners are a young girl and guy, who were so wonderful and willing to help. Like you said, if you show a little effort and try to speak the language, they respond. They helped us and suggested the Levanto to Monterosso path: amazing view as you reach the top of the hill, you can see the 5 Terra and on the other side the coastline to Genoa. Take a look also around Levanto at S. Andrea Church and the Castle. Levanto has also the best beach of the area and it is considered the best spot for surfing in Italy.
Michael Palermo
Salt Lake City, USA 05/23/02

Leaning Tower of Pisa — Early May 2002
Pisa We drove from Siena to Pisa on the autostrada. We actually took the "free" highway from Florence to Pisa, which was fine. You can allegedly make reservations for the Tower of Pisa at primaziale@sirius.pisa.it or 050-560-547 or book online at www.duomo.pisa.it. However, they did not yet have the reservation system working when we were there. We arrived around 13:00, and we had to wait 4 hours (until 17:00) to go up in the Tower, since all of the earlier tickets were sold out. Since there is absolutely nothing else to do in Pisa, we decided to just take pictures of the outside of the Tower and skip the tour of the inside. We went into the adjacent church, which was very beautiful inside, well worth the 2 Euros for admission. The Leaning Tower of Pisa was even more impressive than in pictures; the tower is leaning significantly, and you expect it to fall down at any moment. It took about 1.5 hours each way to drive from Florence to Pisa.
Todd Whitehurst
Frazier Park, CA USA 05/22/02

Eurostar Train from Florence to Venice
We took the Eurostar train from Florence to Venice. It was very fast, ~3 hours. We made reservations through CIT Tours (800/CIT-TOUR) before we left the US, and our seats were waiting for us when we got on the train. We sat in first class, which was very nice and comfortable. Other passengers on the train said that they had witnessed a thief who got on the train briefly when it was stopped in Rome. The thief got on the train car at one end, ran through, stole a bag on the way, and ran off the other end of the car. Watch your bags closely when you are stopped in the station!
Todd Whitehurst
Frazier Park, CA USA 05/22/02

San Gimignano and Siena
We loved San Gimignano. You park outside the city walls. We got there late (17:00), so we found parking easily, but it might be really crowded parking earlier in the day. It was very beautiful and romantic. The pictures that I saw before I visited really do not do this city justice. It is an adorable little hill town, with quite a few little shops selling ceramics, etc., as well as a few restaurants and hotels. We walked rather by accident to the highest spot in the city, which was a big park with a great view of the town and the surrounding countryside. I wish that we had stayed overnight in San Gimignano, but we left for Siena.

Siena is not a little country town. While not incredibly large, it does not quite have the feel of a quaint little town like San Gimignano. While most cars are banned inside the city walls, delivery trucks and other vehicles are allowed, which is rather a nuisance on the narrow streets. Overall, I would not have minded if we missed Siena in favor of other places. We stayed overnight in Siena at the Hotel (Albergo) Antica Torre (via Fieravecchia 7; 53100 Siena, Tel: 0577-222255, Fax: same, anticatorre@email.it). You are allowed to drive to the hotel to drop off your bags, but you basically cannot park anywhere inside the walls of Siena, so don't bother looking. Instead, go park just outside the Porto Romano gate, which is where you enter the city for the Antica Torre, anyway. It is only 4-5 blocks. The parking is just like in Rome. Park in blue spaces, and put money in a parking toll machine that will give you a parking receipt to put on your dash. The parking toll time ends at 22:00 and starts again at 08:00. However, you don't need to go out there at 08:00; a parking attendant will put a piece of paper on your windshield, and you simply pay him when you leave. He is not well-marked, but he is generally standing near the parking toll machine exchanging money with people.

The Albergo Antica Torre was a beautiful hotel. The steps leading up to the rooms are a bit narrow and steep, but not a big deal. The rooms themselves are very charming. We stayed on the top floor - definitely do this if you can; otherwise, you probably don't have much of a view. The hotel is pretty close to the main Campo and a few other restaurants and shops, so the location is pretty nice. 14 Euros was mysteriously added onto our bill (for one night) to cover the cost of breakfast. Breakfast is served in the basement, which is kind of cute. However, it just consists of coffee/tea and rolls, which is hardly worth 14 Euros. See if you can skip the breakfast and get a coffee and a pastry at one of the coffee and pastry places 2-3 blocks away. There really isn't much to see in Siena, and we found it rather crowded with pedestrians and some vehicles in the morning. We went to see the head and thumb of Saint Catherine of Siena at the Church of San Domenica. The church is beautiful, and seeing the head was very interesting if a bit morbid. It is a mummified head displayed in a glass box on a shrine.
Todd Whitehurst
Frazier Park, CA USA 05/22/02

Italy trip
Just retuned from a short but wonderful trip of Italy. For our first 3 days we stayed in Rome at the hotel Duca d'Alba, I would recommend this hotel, we booked our tours with Through Eternity which was a disaster. The first day we showed up for a Colosseum and Forum tour but no guide showed up. So we contacted the number provided and they told us the guide had called in sick but a guide would definitely be there the next day. The next day we showed up again and the guide was there but told us they needed at least 4 people to run the tour and we were the only 2 that showed up. So we called again and they told us they would give us the Vatican tour for 1/2 price. Guess what? The guide never showed up for the Vatican tour. What a DISASTER! I wish I had followed the advice on this board and used Scala Reale or the Three Amigos. For the second part of our trip we went to Sperlonga on the coast. We stayed in the Hotel Grazia. This more than than made up for the disaster Through Eternity gave us in Rome.
jim guthrie
seattle, USA 05/22/02

Recent Italy Trip
Just back from a 12 day trip to Italy and thought that I would post my hotel onservations on this board. I used the Rick Steves' Italy 2002 and the Rome 2002 books to plan my trip. I also used this board and the Fodors (www.fodors.com) Italy discussion board to get additonal feedback on Italy during the planning phase of my trip. I found the boards helpful and I wanted to add my experiences, so that they might help some of you with your planning. Please feel free to email me if you have any additional questions about travel to Italy.

Rome (3 days) I stayed at the Rome Cavalieri Hilton (EUR 184/night) and it was fantastic! The hotel sits on a hill overlooking Rome (pretty far from the center however). Great hotel for those wanting to ensure high quality and comfort for the price.

Naples (2 nights) Stayed at the Starhotel Terminus (EUR 170/night). The hotel was ok — not great. Naples was a disappointment in general and the best thing I can say about this hotel is that it is next to the train station. We had an early morning train one day and being able to simply walk across the street was nice. The hotel was dirty looking and loud at night. The management was not very friendly.

Florence (1 night) Stayed at the Hotel Accademia (EUR 124/night) and the hotel management was very helpful and friendly. The room (# 11) was small, but functional. Great location to sights. I would stay here again. Close to neighborhood laundromats. Pretty close to train station (we walked from station).

Siena (2 nights) Stayed at Hotel Garden (EUR 165/night). Good location just outside of the city. The room (# 333) did not have a stand up shower (I hate that). The hotel was nice but loud at night (they are in the middle of construction). Siena was nice and a good location from which to explore Tuscany.

Cinque Terre (2 nights) Stayed at Hotel 5 Terre in Monterroso al Mare (EUR 135/night). Good hotel and very friendly management. They only wanted to be paid in cash even though web site says they accept credit cards. Loved the Cinque Terre! A must see.

Milan (1 night) Stayed at the Milan Marriott (EUR 169/night). Nice hotel, what you would expect from a Marriott. Free internet access. Relatively close to red line of Milan subway. Definitely go to roof of Duomo while in Milan. Great shopping.
Chris
Atlanta, GA USA 05/15/02

Rome and Sorrento
We just returned from 2 wks. in Southern Italy. This was our 1st trip to Italy. Rome wears you down but the sites were incredible. The Hotel Italia was in a very good location from the train station and for walking to most of the sites. Rick's tips on leaving the Sistine Chapel through the less used exit straight to St. Peter's was worth the price of the book. The Borghese Gallery was fabulous. Be prepared to walk a bit from the subway. We planned to stay in Sorrento as a base for 5 nights, but loved it so much that we stayed 8 nights at the Hotel Desiree. We went everywhere from there. Corinna and staff adopted us and gave us such great information. This was very well located, quiet, away from the town, but not hard to get to. Some of the rooms have the most wonderful balconies and views. The beds were not very good, but for the hospitality and views, I wouldn't hesitate to return. From Sorrento, we went to Capri, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Mt. Vesuvius by train and/or ferry. We rented a car for 2 days and drove the Amalfi coast, to Positano,Ravello Mt. Pertuso, and Marina de Cantone, all incrediby beautiful. We felt safe everywhere, but took precautions so as not to be a target for the pickpockets. The trains were always on time and the machines to buy the tickets worked very well. No lines and very easy. We can't wait to return, next time to Northern Italy!
D Moore
Pittsburgh, PA USA 05/13/02

Lockers
Just returned from Italy. The left luggage and lockers at all stations are CLOSED due to ongoing security concerns.
Brian
Pompano Beach, FL USA 05/11/02

Hotels — Torino, Sanremo
Torino — your recommended Hotel Bologna was great — location good and people so helpful — will stay there everytime I am in Torino. Sanremo — Hotel Sole Mare was great — ask for a room with a balcony. Location is near the water but inthe center of town. we had a fun couple of days here. This is no longer close to the train station since Sanremo has a new train station. TO is past downtown near the Russian Orthodox cathedral.
Elizabeth Fox
Denton, TX USA 05/11/02

Lockers at Pisa Train Station
In response to Monique's posting: The lockers are still there. But there is tape over where you are suppose to put money in and operate them. There is a big sign (in English) that says they are closed. Apparently this is a recent change. I believe that they were operational last August.
Amy
USA 05/09/02

Antica Locanda dei Mercanti
I recently stayed at this hotel based on other's recommendations, including Rick's. Compared to other hotels in Italy that I stayed at, I don't think this hotel warrants the rave reviews it gets. We stayed in Room #31. It was a small, but comfortable room. However, the bathroom had some problems with it (leaky plumbing and a shower that wouldn't drain — flooding the floor). Further, they tried to charge us for room service (even though we didn't order anything or take breakfast with them). On the good side, I will note that it's in an ideal location, a few short blocks from the Duomo and Sforza Castle, and in a pedestrian-only area, which is full of shops and cafes. If you are going to Milan, I think you can find better hotels at lower prices.

05/09/02

Milan
I just came back from Milan and also took the Astradale tour. It cost 40 Euros a person and there was no discount available. Apparently, the Milan Welcome card (or whatever it's called) is being reprinted and the Tourist Information Center cannot provide an alternative. BTW-this card is only available at the TI near the Duomo...you can't pick one up at the Train Station TI. RE: Vicky Jo's comment about being left behind at the "Last Supper." Our tour guide informed our group that we would be seeing the "Last Supper" in groups of 25. The first group would go in for 15 minutes and the second group would follow. She also told us where to meet in 30 minutes. When she was ready to leave, she made a general announcement and looked around, but also stated, "I'm leaving now...you'd better get on the bus." Fortunately, all of us made it to the bus for the rest of the tour. But, I get the feeling that she wouldn't have searched for any stragglers.
Kathy
USA 05/09/02

Milan Update
Live report from Milan on May 9, 2002. The Astradale bus tour cost us £43 apiece and there was NO discount available. Then, at the end, the tour bus LEFT four of us behind at "The Last Supper." Luckily we were able to share a cab back to the Duomo and split the cost. All the recommended restaurants were full when we approached them on Saturday night, so I take that to mean reservations are a must. The robes in Room 20 of the Duomo museum were closed to the public, although I caught a glimpse of them through the doorway. The tapestry Rick described is missing, possibly on loan somewhere. The tour of the spires atop the cathedral was fantastic and we were able to lord it over locals who have never done it themselves. I wish it would stop raining — we're on our honeymoon. :-(
Vicky Jo
Hollywood, CA USA 05/09/02

Lockers at the Pisa Train Station
In response to a previous post: I was in Pisa last August and we checked our bags in the station's lockers. Unless they've been removed (which I doubt, since many people don't stay long and use these lockers), you can leave your bags.
Monique
Boston, MA USA 05/09/02

Hotel London and da Vinci's Last Supper in Milan
I stayed at London Hotel in Milan. The location was very good. I like the many eateries along Via Dante. My room was really small. The shower and toilette were so awkwardly added into the room that I decided to use the shower down the hall instead. I could have saved 10 euros a night for a room without showers. I poked my head into some double rooms and they appear to be a lot roomier than my single room. The place is very clean and the street is quiet. However, the walls are thin so pray for quiet neighbors who don't use the bathroom in the middle of the night! Da Vinci's Last Supper: I made reservations per the instructions in your book. This was more enjoyable to me than the duomo rooftop. I also appreciate your advice to start listening to the audioguide while in the waiting room. Most people waited till they got inside and was told that time's up before they finished listening to the whole thing!
Amy
Oakland, CA USA 05/05/02

Cinque Terre — I like Riomaggiore
I was hoping to take a vacation from my vacation and was disappointed that I had to deal with tourist crowds similar to those in Venice and Florence. The trains, ferries and the easy Via del' Amore hike were packed with tourists. So is Vernazza. Nonetheless, the hikes are really enjoyable. The trail between Manarola and Corniglia was closed when I was there. The tough Corniglia-Vernazza hike was the most enjoyable. I got a good workout to walk off the vino bianco, pesto and gelato! In addition, I enjoyed really beautiful scenery along the way. I stayed in Riomaggiore and will consider staying there again. I will also consider the less touristy Corniglia. I got my room through Mar Mar rooms and it was very clean and spacious (albeit a tiny bathroom). It is on the harbor and it has a terrace with 180 degree views! Not bad for 65 euros a night. For restaurants, La Lampara in Riomaggiore and Belvedere in Monterrosso are both good recommendations.
Amy
Oakland, CA USA 05/05/02

Pisa Leaning Tower
Contrary to the information on your guidebook update web page, you cannot make reservations to climb the leaning tower in Pisa. You have to buy a ticket in person at the ticket office at the Field of Miracles. You may buy a ticket up to one day in advance and I believe the ticket office opens at 7:30. "Tours" start at 8:00. Each "tour" lasts 40 minutes with the last "tour" starting at 19:20. You are supposed to show up 15 min before your allotted time. I bought a ticket at 11am and the earliest available tour was for 2pm the same day. Still, I considered myself lucky considering how many people were running around at the Field of Miracles. I suppose people are put off either by the 15 euros admission or the 294 tilted steps. You may leave your daybag in one of the free lockers provided to those going up the tower. However, they are not big enough for suitcases or big backpacks. While in Pisa, I had lunch at La Buca suggested in your guidebook. The food was very good. If you sit outside, you can even eat with a view of the tower!
Amy
Oakland, CA USA 05/05/02

Checking Luggage in Pisa
I decided to see Pisa as a stopover but found that you can no longer check bags at the train station. I took a bus to the airport where there is check luggage. However, the place is only open during 10:00 and 18:00. However, you may pick up your bags during the extended hours of 8:00 and 20:00. It costs 6 euros. They have to take a photocopy of my passport and made me go to the security checkpoints to have my luggage x-ray'd. The process took about 15 min. My guess is that the train station is not equipped to take these security measures. Therefore, they have closed the baggage deposit there.
Amy
Oakland, CA USA 05/05/02

Vernazza — Albergo Barbara
I made reservations for Vernazza three days before my arrival, calling from Florence. I tried Albergo Barbara first. She could only offer me a room for two of the five days I was planning to stay, but I took it, even though she warned me that it was an attic room with a "small window view" of the harbor. When I arrived, she led me up and up the stairs to a perfectly satisfactory room. I assumed my view would be blocked by a roof or building. But when she pulled back the curtain of the small window, I had a magnificent, panoramic view of the whole harbor, with Monterosso in the distance. I almost leapt with joy! And it was only 35 Euros a night (single, shared bath)!! My other three nights were in a room of Gianni Franzi, who runs a restaurant on the square. Also very satisfactory, lots of climbing, but only 45 Euros a night (single, shared bath).
Terry
Oakland, CA USA 05/03/02

Pisa
If you plan to jump off the train in Pisa, snap some photos of the Tower, and jump back on the next train, be aware that there is no place to check your bags at the Pisa train station. And it's a LONG walk to the Tower if you have to carry luggage. By all means take a bus (very convenient) or taxi from the train station.
Terry
Oakland, CA USA 05/03/02

Italy Guide Book
Great guidebook. Your guidebook recommended places I would not have normally gone to on my own (e.g. Lake Como). I am greatful for the experience and the memories of that wonderful place! Pick-pocketed: Unfortuately, I was careless and it happened on the exact bus route you warned us about in Rome (#64)! Overall, I had a wonderful time. Thanks for sharing with us!!! phine28@yahoo.com
phine28@yahoo.com
CA USA 05/03/02

Guide books
Grazie mille! By using your guides I was able to put together an itinerary tailored for my family's needs for a 3 week tour of London and Italy. The "secrets" were invaluable and kept us from standing in long lines at the museums, searching for a laundromat, or taking that long hike back through the Vatican Museum! My 12 year old was especially pleased with your suggestion of the book at the vendors outside the Colisem that had vinyl overleaf pages showing what Rome used to look like. I used your recommendations for all of my hotels and was pleased with all of them — Elizabeth Hotel in London, Albergo Doni in Venice, Hotel Basilea in Florence, Albergo Bernini in Siena, and Residenza Cellini in Rome. Mona Winks got us through the museums in a comfortable length of time and without a sense of overwhelm. I give you "two thumbs up."
Karen
South Lake Tahoe, CA USA 05/01/02

Vernazza Experience
Just got back from Rome, Florence, Vernazza, and Venice and found Rick's books to be very helpful. Made a reservation at Filippo's in Vernazza and confirmed a day ahead of time. When we got there, Filippo was nowhere to be found and they did not have our reservation. They had two rooms for us for the first night, but nothing for the second night. It was Liberation Day, so there were no rooms to be found. We went for dinner at Trattoria Gianni. Besides having one of the best meals of my life, Volerio (our waiter) made a few calls and got us two rooms for the second night. He made our trip!!
David
Washington, DC USA 05/01/02

Venice, Trains.
Venice: RIck's best advice was to get as lost as possible! Familiarize yourself with the relationship of the main landmarks along the Grand Canal) and then forget the map. You'll experience a lot more, and you will truly be able to get where you want to eventually.. I can concurr with the positivies given the Locanda Nouvo Venezia given eslwhere on this list. Its lovely, they are helpful, and its convenietly and charmingly located (and quite). Trains: Perhaps someone else can come up with more info...but I found through un- fortunate experience that 1x per month on a wked, there is train fair promotional that makes going all the way north to south or vice versa very cheap. And very crowded and slow. My exp. was April 13, the local filling me in said the next one is MAY 11 and he advised not travelling on that day if at all possible.The fare was something ridiculous like 10 euros. (My own fair did not reflect this, so I don't know how to have taken advantage of it) I also ran into some need for revervations made at least 4 hrs ahead of time. Even if there was room on the train, I couldn't get a reservation because it was 3 hrs and 55 min. before the departure. This was going Venice to Ferrara to Ravenna. making resevations at least 4 hrs ahead of time in some circustmances which remain unclear .
Cynthia WHear
Baltimore, MD USA 04/30/02

Accomodations/Services
I just wanted to tell you that we were so very very fortunate to run across the services of Mauro Sacchetta Cali of Underground Viaggi for our recent week stay in Rome. Mauro was incredibly hospitable and considerate as he found us a lovely apartment in the Tastivere section of Rome. Mauro's transportation to and from the airport as well as his constant help throughout the week was truly above and beyond! We HIGHLY recommend the services of Mauro and Underground Viaggi, and we can't imagine a travel agent being anymore wonderful!
Eileen Sutula
Madison, WI USA 04/29/02

Rome
Just returned from 12 days in Italy and the Rick Steves' guide Italy 2002 was invaluable. In Rome, We stayed at the Monte De Gallo B&B (short walk to the Vatican)and wonderful rates ($129 for two room suite). Tips for Rome: Take the on-off Trolly's first (the Italian English was not understandable, but it allowed quick visits to sites and good overview of how the city is laid out)and was much safer than we found the #64 bus (Rick Steves' was not kidding when he talks about the pick pockets on this bus line!). We did the City 110 Buses (there are several different ones). We stumbled upon a free tour at the Forum (Discover Tours) who were advertising their paid walking tours. Wonderful fun and lead by English native speaking guides who clearly loved the city and the sites (our guide was Julia). We were sorry we stumbled on them our last day and didn't take their tours (Anticient Rome, Rome at Dusk, the Vatican City, The Catacombs. Phone: 349 8726 943 or e-mail: discoverome@hotmail.com (web site www.discoverrometours.com). Group sizes are limited to 20. Our best tour! Rome was marvelous, 5 days was simply not enough....
P Gardner
Boston, MA USA 04/27/02

Incorrect email address
The email address (celestedileve@tiscalinet.it) for Residence La Tavolozza in Positano, Italy does not work. Please update. Thanks.
John Henry Beyer
El Cerrito, CA USA 04/21/02

Travelling along the Riviera
Travelling down along the Riviera for my 4th time we met old and new friends ! 5 TERRE: tried this time the nice village of Manarola avoiding Vernazza and Manarola too crowded for my taste (once in vernazza they gave away my room and second time even if paid they sent me to another hotel in town with a cozy and not-windowed room !!!!). Stayed at the lovely CA'ANDREAN. Hotel is not facing the sea but rate is fine and easily reachable even with heavy luggage. SESTRI LEVANTE: new area of the RS readers. Great for the beach but not for the landscape. Better stay northern but spend a day laying on the sand is fine. PORTOFINO : as usual avoided the famous resort for a much more reasonable town like S.MARGHERITA. This is great. You've got everything you need at a walking distance especially if you stay central like at the Hotel Nuova Riviera of the Sabini Family. In my recent 4 visits I've tried most of the hotels in town (from 4 to 2 stars hotels). This is just a 1 star but they manage with great enthusiasm. It's a family run hotel and you see everybody busy to make Clients happy. The hotel is not facing the sea (it's not like in the 5Terre were almost of the houses are seafront or at least with great seaview) infact in town only the 4/5 stars hotels are seafront (apart a 3 star at the railstation but I avoided it right for this reason!!). I had the chance to occupy a large quadruple room (we were just 2 and I paid as triple not complaining at at all seing the space I had all for me !)on the ground floor with 3 large windows and garden view. Started with one day only and stayed 5 nights! Breakfast is included in the rate and even if just continental is exquisite especially the great coffee the Sabinis offer. The first morning we arrived early and they gave us extra breakfast service just for 5Euro per person! Rich informations on the area like maps, train schedule and walking pathes suggestions are easily offered with joy. Better than the tourist office ! Yes, I recommend it for sure (as I noticed many many readers have already done in the past years). GENOA : it's a recent re-discovery, I mean I've been there 10 years ago and was dirty, very badly kept but now is really something else. The historical centre has been renewed and all houses re-painted. The harbour area is now very actractvie with the Acquarium and museums plus the old Palaces all restored (palazzo Rosso and palazzo Bianco). If you have an extra day or it's a rainy day and don't know what to do, that's the place to stay. Most of the hotels, even 3 stars, have reasonable rates. RS, thanks for the oportunity you give all your readers to fulfill your suggestions !
H.Roos
New York, Ny USA 04/19/02

Northern Italy
Please make sure that you visit Bellagio when you are in the Lake District. It is the most beautiful of the large lakes and accommodation at the Hotel Florence is both affordable and charming. Remember to visit Varenna and walk across the boardwalks for superb views of the old town and the lake.
Wendy Ashworth
London, U K 04/16/02

Hotel Galleria
A rebuttal of a couple of previous posts. For the Hotel Galleria's (in Venice) web site, try www.hotelgalleria.it instead of www.galleria.it, which is apparently a porn site (I did NOT confirm!). Also, while I agree that Hotel Galleria can be noisy (our friends had noise problems in Room #1 or #2), it does not have to be. Our room (#8) was not noisy at all and had a BEAUTIFUL Grand Canal view. The vaporetti do make some noise at the nearby stop, but the windows (at least on the canal side) are well insulated and we were not at all disturbed by noise. Apparently, the noise is much worse in the "Accademia Bridge view" rooms (which are right above the noisy restaurant mentioned by the previous poster). Bottom line: stay at the Hotel Galleria but pay extra for a canal view room (hey, you're in Venice!).
Steve Heinen
Tulsa, OK USA 04/15/02

feedback
Your book was wonderfully helpful and made both planning and the actual traveling fun. Since we are off-season travelers it would be helpful to have more information on what is not available (e.g. the free tour of St. Marks is not given until May — we were there in April)until high season. Our most helpful tip is for drivers. We learned this from an Italian friend. If you are confused about which way to go — either on a city street or even on the Autostrada — do as the Italians do: pull over, put on your flashers, and study your map until you feel confident enough to proceed. One thing that needs changing: Vaporetti #1 in Venice leaves from the dock on the right (not the left) as you leave the train station. Encouraging people to read the directional signs is important so that they head the right way on the canal. A few more comments about Venice. While we loved our stay at the Hotel Galleria, its proximity to both the vaporetti stop for Academia and the bridge makes it pretty noisy (the restaurant below also adds to the din). So if someone is looking for a quiet experience (which you indicate that it is) — this is not it. We though the food at Tratoria Al Cugnai was fabulous — sea food, salads and pasta were all first rate — Osteria da Carla was mediocre — salads were just head lettuce, pasta flavors didn't blend well, in our opinion. Thanks again.
amy alpine
Eau Claire, WI USA 04/15/02

venice, hotel web site??
I just thought you might be interested that a web site address for a venetian hotel is actually a porno web site. Hotel Galleria, www.galleria.it was the address listed in my italy guidebook, and it is a porno site!! No problem, just thought you might want to check it out.
Linda Zaner
ocala, fl USA 04/11/02

Rented an apartment with Venice Rentals
Hi, I am copying what I just wrote on the Venice board since it seemed to be unused. We just rented an apartment with Venice Rentals and were pleasantly surprised. We were a little leery in staying in an apartment, having never done it before. We found many write ups here and ending up booking a 2 bedroom 2 bath apartment for a week near Campa S. Stefano and C. S. Angelo in the S. Marks district. Everything was great, their service was superb truly, the apartment (nicer and bigger than expected) and the price ($180 a night) was unbeatable by other companies and hotels we checked. I highly recommend them, its a true find in Venice. Here's their info. www.Venicerentals.com; mail@venicerentals; Phone From U.S. 011-39-041-276-9798. Thumbs up!
Patricia Kaminsky
USA 04/09/02

Spring break in Italy
Just returned from a 10-day trip to Rome, Naples, and Sorrento. Highly recommend the Hotel Oceania. Very friendly and helpful staff. We were in one of their new rooms and it was very comfortable and quiet. It is within walking distance of all the major sights...even the Vatican..and the train station. This is a very walkable city. If you need a WC..just duck into any of the McDonalds you see everywhere. They don't seem to care if you buy anything and the toilets are generally clean. Don't risk being fleeced on the metro...just walk.

Had great meals at the Osteria da Mario, Osteria Enoteca al Bric and the Hostaria Romana. Travelled by train to Sorrento via Naples. They have a secure place to store your luggage if you wish to walk around the city; something I think is worth doing. We had a great pizza at Pizzeria Trianon. It is a little unsettling going from the Eurostar train from Rome underground to the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento but it turned out okay..just keep close to your possessions as Rick Steves warns.

We stayed at the Hotel Il Nido in Sorrento. It is cheap compared to the prices in the city but it is a little inconvenient in that you need to take the hotel shuttle back and forth. You do have a great view of the Bay of Naples from each room and they serve dinner for a very reasonable price. They also have free internet access. We ate twice at the Ristorante Pizzeria Zi'Ntonio in Sorrento..perhaps the best pasta I have eaten anywhere and very friendly service.

Give Pompeii a whole day...not just 2-3 hours. Rent an audioguide and just wander up and down the ancient streets. I think the bus ride down the Amalfi coast would be better in the summer when they run more buses and you can take a ferry back..they don't run in the spring. For my money, the towns on the Cinque de Terre are far more scenic and less touristy than the towns on the Amalfi coast and have more charm.
Peter Oliver
Salem, OR USA 04/08/02

Tour of Italy
We used Italy 2002 in March. The book was extremely helpful. We especially loved Siena, Cinque Terre and Sorrento. We stayed in several hotels and pensiones mentioned in Rick's book. However, we were not happy with 2 of the hotels, Soggiorno Pezzati in Florence (the pensione itself is nice & Clean) the surrounding neighborhood is shady and scary. The other was Hotel Speronari in Milan. It is in a prime/safe location. But the hotel itself was disappointing, dingy and dirty. We are so glad that we had Rick's book to help us navigate through the train, busses and accomodations. We truly felt that all the information was current and helpful.
Julie Cruz
San Diego, CA USA 04/07/02

Italy
Some great places at good prices, all pretty large rooms, particularly for Italy

Milan-Locanda Anitca Leonardo-terrific location, lovely people, great rooms-get one on the first floor with a garden.

Florence-Residenza Johlea II-a little hard to find but once we did-wow! A great rooftop terrace overlooking the city.

Rome-Residenza Cellini-pay a little more and get the deluxe. We stayed in a room that was huge and freshly painted wedgewood blue, owned by a lovely family.

In Venice we stayed in an apartment from Views on Venice-Ca Soranzo-it was great but four flights of stairs and 2 big bridges to get there-so be forewarned if you have a lot of luggage. Finally, in Rome we had a funky guide named Mayta-I think her website is eternal tourist-she's a little odd but got us to the front of everyline, is American and knows a lot.

I recommend ordering museum tickets online-saves lots of time.
sara rutenberg
los angeles, CA USA 04/06/02

Portofino & Santa Margherita Ligure : Villino Matilde
For our 25th wedding anniversary we chose the small Villino Matilde property in S. Margherita Ligure, it's the unique self-catering accomodation in town, 80mq total surface on 2 floors with an outdoor area that the owners, Marco & Cristina are buying with a barbeque corner and private parking spot by the end of this 2002 season. The rate was less expensive than going to a hotel. Great for being independent but central and close to everything. Villino Matilde is in the real town centre but on a private road, therefore quite and intimate. Try it, from here you can go anywhere in Liguria by all means of transportation (you DON'T NEED a car !)www.villinomatilde.com
Tom & Martha Leaf
OH USA 04/06/02

Italian Riviera & Cinque Terre
I just stayed for 7 nights in a nice, clean 2 room apartment in the village of Levanto just 50 meters to the beach for 100 Euro per night! It didn't include breakefast but I made my own as there was a kitchen with fridge, freezer, oven and stove top, also a washing machine. I read about this company on your site. They did a super job and met us on time at the local train station as they promised and showed us around. The company's site is: www.cinqueterreproperties.com. Nice people, nice service, nice price!
Marcel Petit
Tolouse, France 04/01/02

Spring in Italy
Just came back from a mid-March trip to Venice, Florence, Pisa and Rome. We had wonderful weather and Italy was in full bloom for Spring. We stayed in Rick-recommended hotels and all were wonderful. In Venice, Hotel Campiello has a can't beat location. You are just minutes from all the action on St. Mark's Square but is peaceful and has a great breakfast. Florence's Hotel Accademia was nice but pray you don't get Room 3. It is right behind the bar and the staff uses it to make their expresso in the early a.m. (6:00 a.m.) and you will have no more sleep after that! We stayed at the convent (Hotel di Santa Brigida) in Rome and, again, you are within walking distance of almost all the sights. We took a taxi to Villa Borghese but walked every where else. Request a quiet room as street noise can be a problem.

We enjoyed all of Rick's tours in the Rome book. The Night Walk Across Rome was great but we felt it fell apart after the Trevi Fountain. We never did find the Spanish Steps that night. (It's difficult trying to read a map in the dark!)

We planned to speed through Pisa with a quick two hour visit as Rick recommends. However, due to security problems, both the luggage deposit and the lockers were not open so we had to take our luggage with us on the bus and then just sat on "the most beautiful lawn in Italy" in front of the Leaning Tower and took turns visiting the sights.

Plan ahead and make reservations for the Uffizi and Accademia in Florence, the Leaning Tower (if you want to go up it), and the Borghese Gallery in Rome. We did and it saved hours of time. Thanks, Rick & Co. for making our trip easy and wonderful.
Tricia Melgaard
Tulsa, OK USA 03/30/02

Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre was wonderful! We liked Manarola best of all. Although we like Trattoria Da Billy, our favorite restaurant in all of Italy was Il Porticciolo in Manarola. GREAT pesto, great anchovies, great seafood, great sorbetto, great service — you get the point! Stayed a Da Barinin B&B in Manarola and highly recommend, but it is quite a climb from the main part of town. If you are not in shape when you get there, you will be when you leave! Fabulous views from the rooms! If you care, see my comments re Rome, Florence and Venice on those Graffiti Walls.
Steve Heinen
Tulsa, OK USA 03/27/02

Amalfi Coastline
Just wanted to say Rick's books are very valuable. I have used his tips on several trips now. I have a great tip. If you considering traveling the Amalfi Coast, I used a wonderful taxi service-very reasonable-the owner Umberto is a delight and has lived in Praino all his life. http://www.taxibenvenuto.com is his website. He will give you a quote ahead of time. I missed my train and was late by over an 1.5 hours and he was kind enough to re-arrange twice to pick me up in the pouring rain and deliver me and my friend safely to our hotel in Amalfi. He even gave us a little history lesson on the region on the drive. I highly recommend his services.
C Keathley
Clayton, mo USA 03/26/02

Rome and Sorrento
My wife and I just got back from a trip to Rome and Sorrento. Rick's book was extremely helpful. Rome: Stayed at Hotel Italia. It was a very good deal, clean, and close to all the sites and train station. All the places we ate were really good (except the one mentioned next) especialy those recommended by Rick. Warning: Stay away from ristorante Ciao Bella on Via Veneto. The waiter kept pushing the highest items on the menu, especially items sold per 100 grams. (The bill claimed I ate 1kg of fish) He also hinted at a large tip — even though the servizio charge was already somewhat large. Sorrento: Stayed at Hotel Il Nido. It is not directly in the town of Sorrento, but has an amazing view of the bay. The hotel van picks up at a central location in the town hourly after 5 pm and in the morning makes 3 hourly stops at the port and the Circumvesuviana/bus station station. The hotel also has a restourant that is quite good.
Dan Howell
Alexandria, VA USA 03/26/02

Rome (the eternal city)
I just returned from Rome and followed the advice on this board and used three amigos tours. You understand the company name as soon as you meet them, 3 very friendly guys. My son doesn't like tours so much so we called and asked for recommendations in Rome, the guide simply told us to meet them and told us everything we needed to know for FREE. We then decided to take their tour of Ancient Rome and even my son loved it. Questions are answered without hesitation and Chay our guide had a very humorous way of explaining things. Even at the end of the tour they offer your money back if you did not enjoy the tour. e-mail threeamigostours@hotmail.com
craig lyle
boston, USA 03/24/02

Naples' Gem of a Tour Guide
We've been using Rick Steves' guide books for three years and are delighted with them! The only thing that could be improved upon are the small maps. Then again, it is always worthwhile to obtain a local map anyhow and realize that the Rick's maps are very condensed and, perforce, simple. We found a FANTASTIC tour guide in the area of Naples. He regularly provides tours for Americans stationed in Naples, and also to archeologists, etc. His tours encompass the areas of Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum, and MonteCassino...and many others off the usual tourists' screen. He speaks five languages and is native Napoletano. His rates are very reasonable & I can assure the historically minded person, his tours are the best. His name is Aldo Sparice, and his phone is 011-39-339-153-8009 (cell). Remember the time difference (Italy is +6 hours EST, +9 PST). So, if you wish to visit any of the Naples' sites, this man is a powerful resource.
Anthony Ricci
Menifee, CA USA 03/07/02

Italy with Rick
Just returned from a wonderful seven days in Rome with Rick's tour. Everything was perfect; from the knowledgeable and simpatico Fernando, the accommodations at Hotel Aberdeen, the weather, to our 15 friendly companions. A great time!

Following the week in Rome, we went on to Venice by train and spent two days exploring by vaporetto and walking. We enjoyed Pensione Guerrato so much when we stayed there with Rick's Italy BB&B tour in '99 that we stayed there again. It's still the friendly place with the same accommodating staff we remembered.

Next we took the train to Milan, a very scenic route. Make sure that your ticket is from Venezia S.L and not Mestre. Even though my tickets from Rome were to Venezia Santa Lucia, the agent booked my departure from Venezia Mestre. I should have checked, but it made for an interesting half hour making the connection to Mestre.

Milan is the perfect city to prepare you for reality at home. It's modern, busy, and efficient with great connections to both airports. We stayed at Hotel Gritti which is centrally located about two blocks from the Duomo. The rooms are clean and comfortable, and the staff is efficient and cordial, but don't expect warm fuzzies.
Dick Crawford
Mercer Island, WA USA 03/04/02

Hotel in Siena — Albergo Antica Torre
Several other guidebooks (e.g., fodors.com) recommend a hotel in Siena called the Albergo Antica Torre. They recently got an e-mail address, which is not published anywhere yet. It is anticatorre@email.it.
Todd Whitehurst
Frazier Park, CA USA 03/04/02

Lake maggiore
We went to Lake Maggiore in Italy last year. We had always been to Garda, but were mesmerised by what we found. Stunning scenery, friendly people and a great hotel, Le Palme in Stresa. It has a lovely rooftop jacuzzi and beautiful food. Views of Isola Bella from the balcony !
Rachel Wakefield
cambridge, UK, USA 03/03/02

Rome Hotel to Avoid
Rome-Avoid the "Hotel Adventure" A true nightmare.
Judi
Prescott, az USA 03/03/02

Rome, Florence, Venice
We just returned from Italy, religiously following Rick's recommendations and had the time of our lives! All hotels we stayed in were very nice — clean, friendly and safe. The weather (February 2002) was wonderful! Mid-days in Rome required no jackets...and very few lines at anything!

ROME: Stayed at the Hotel Oceania. Very nice place, however, they are doing construction on the exterior of the building, so it doesn't look nice from the outside. Owners couldn't have been nicer. The Colosseum should not be missed, along with the other sites Rick mentions. However, skip the "Risorante da Giovanni" in Rome, unless you want to experience rude service and mediocre food.

FLORENCE: Stayed at the Hotel Accademia. Nice place, very close to the train. However, the front desk staff are LOUD in the early am if you happen to be in a room near the desk (as we were). Otherwise, very nice & pleasant.

VENICE: The hotel al Piave is a gem! It was THE BEST place we stayed in the entire time...says it's "2 stars" but really seems like 3. Immaculate rooms & guest area. Wonderful hosts. Well worth the price...can't recommend it enough!

A recommendation for Rick: the directions from the train to the hotels (in all cities) need to be improved. We got totally disoriented in each city trying to get from train to the hotel — and the maps were confusing at best. Otherwise, the guide is great — for the hotel recommendations especially.
Tom Mantoni
Easton, PA USA 02/24/02

Rome, Florence and Venice accommodation
We went to Rome, Florence and Venice for 10 days in December 2001, and all our accommodation bookings were based on postings here.

We stayed for 5 nights in Rome at the Rome B&B based on the numerous recommendations posted on this site. Whilst it was in a very convenient location right above the metro, no-one seemed to mention that this was simply a 3 bedroom apartment that has been rented out on a per-room basis! I hardly even met the 'very-friendly' Marco. His partner Carlotta was there, and whilst very nice and helpful, they made sure they charged for everything, in $US!! That was difficult considering we are from Australia. The room we were in was quite large. The location was ok, though not in the centre of Rome, it is approx a 15min walk just to to Colosseum, so at least 25-30mins to walk into the hub of things, or catch the metro. I think that this B&B was ok, though probably not so deserving of the glowing reviews.

We stayed at the Soggiorno Battistero in Florence. This was a fantastic place to stay!! We had a fantastic view of the Duomo and we were right in the middle of Florence, the location was fantastic and the rooms were large and airy. They recently renovated all the bathrooms so each room has a private bathroom. We would definitely stay here again on our return.

In Venice we stayed at the Pensione Guerrato (sorry about the spelling). The location was just right off the Rialto Bridge. We absolutely fell in love with Venice, getting lost in the maze of streets was wonderful. This place was also fantastic.
Pauline
Sydney, AUS 02/24/02

Italy through the backdoor
My wife and I went to Italy f in Nov. We read the Rick's "Italy throught the Backdoor" and used it throughout our adventures. The written maps were so easy to follow and so convenient, instead of large maps. The places to dine he recommends were wonderful. We found ourselves walking around everywhere and not feeling lost, just using his maps showing points of reference.
Patrick
Wickliffe, Oh USA 02/22/02

Milan Hotels,Food etc.
I stayed at two different hotels in Milan. One was a 1 or maybe two star Hotel Speronari suggested by Rick Steves and it was a lot nicer than I expected. It was VERY convenient to the center of Milan, clean, safe, staff was very helpful and most of all CHEAP. I paid 44 Euro for a single room for one night. It's better than a Motel 6 (as motel six does not have ceramic tile floors. My room did not include a bathroom, only a sink and bidet but the very clean bathrooms are plentiful on each floor..actually one every two doors on each floor. The other hotel was a four star Hotel Lloyd. I paid 83 Euro. It was nice also but not as convenient as Hotel Speronari. I compare it to a Comfort Inn in the states. Not fancy but very american and comfortable.

Some of my "greats" about Milan were....the subway system, very easy, the ice cream (gelato) to die for and the pizza (or should I just say all the food!) was excellent.
Tina Carter
Atlanta, GA USA 02/20/02

Hotel Santa Maria
On a recommendation from this site, I stayed at the Hotel Santa Maria in the Trastevere area of Rome. It is a gem. We found a gracious, helpful staff, and expanded continental breakfast in a pleasant garden. Great walking access to tourist sites, security gated at night. The rooms are smallish, but spotless with a safe and I think I remember a refigerator. The air-conditioning seemed a bit anemic, but perhaps it had been turned off at the end of the season.
Pam
Egypt 02/18/02

LIGURIA — S. Margherita Ligure — Portofino
S. Margherita Ligure is perfect base to explore all the area of Portofino (with San Fruttuoso & Camogli). We chose a self-catering accomodation. This is rare in town but on the web we found the lovely Villino Matilde. It's a small house, 80mq, on two floors with an equipped kitchen and central to all. The owners, Marco & Cristina, give you all the information possible to enjoy the town & the area. Just have a look : www.villinomatilde.com
John & Chrissie
San Diego, CA USA 02/18/02

Rome and Pompeii
We took our 3 boys to Rome. We stayed in Hotel Pensione Italia, the only hotel we could get that had a room for 5. We highly recommend it, particularly for larger families. The hotel staff was very helpful, they called taxis for us, found out opening times, and gave us directions. They have bus/metro tickets at the desk that you can purchase from them. The room was spacious, very clean, with wood floors and the beds were very comfortable. Breakfast was included in the 130 euros and it was OK. We got spoiled in Germany with their wonderful breakfasts.

We had dinner twice at the Hostaria Romana. The first night the food was wonderful, the second night it was just fine, two of the dishes were just ok. Flann O'Brien Irish Pub food was acceptable, but the service was not very good. We wouldn't go back there. The day we went to the Vatican, we had luch at Hostaria Bastioni. The food was good and the price right. The had wonderful gelati just around the corned from Bastioni on our way to St. Peter's.

We made a day trip to Pompeii from Rome by the Eurostar train. It was little bit less than 2 hours from Rome to Napoli, and very comfortable. Circumvesuvio train from Napoli to Pompeii was very crowded. It took about 45 min. from Napoli to Pompeii. Before heading for Pompeii, we visited the Museo Archeologico in Naples. On our way back to the train station, we had to walk b/c of a strike on line A of the subway. We loved Pompeii and wished we had had more time. A couple of hours is not enough!
Emilia
USA 02/13/02

Locanda Novo Venezia
I am pleased to see that the Locanda Novo Venezia is listed in the Venice section of Rick's Italy book. We stayed there and found the accommodations and service to be excellent. They asked what coffee, etc. we preferred and what time we would like breakfast, then brought it up to our room each morning. The staff was very nice. The hotel is only a 5 minute walk from the Rialto Bridge.
Sue Cramer
Peoria, AZ USA 02/09/02

rome.hotels and tours
On a recent visit to Rome I found the city so welcoming and easy. We stayed at the hotel Navona which was beautiful and also had English speaking staff. They recommended a tour company called the Three Amigos, so we tried them and they were absolutely amazing! For only 100,000 lira they covered the Vatican, Colosseum, Forum and the Catacombs. To contact the tour company you call 3333269149 and ask for Chay, he's Scottish. Watch out for pickpockets, they are easily spotted, look for young girls with babies!
julie
san diego, cal USA 02/03/02

Levanto & Cinque Terre
We just stayed in a wonderful apartment in Levanto on the Italian Riviera, Cinque Terre which is a 1500's building turned into 2 nice apartment, only a 5-minute walk to the local train station. The apartment is called Casa del Registro(ph# 3288426934, e-mail: cinqueterreproperties@yahoo.it). There were two outstanding restaraunts there: Osteria Tumelin and Taverna Garibaldi , both were excellent food and value.
Phil Browton
Islington, London, UK 02/02/02

venice & rome
The train from Rome to Venice is quite pleasant, the part up to Bologna quite fast...I highly suggest getting lost in the city, away from the pzza. san marco, near the ghetto & the miserecordia, the little streets and bridges. The city also feels very safe, day or night and you can't really get lost. I stayed halfway between rialto bridge & san marco at splendid suisse hotel, which was very nice...

In Rome, a suggestion for kids is to take them to Villa Borghese, there's lots of play areas, great for picnics. Stores and museums nearby...there's also bike rentals and a horseriding area...steps away is pzza de popolo and spanish steps...take the metro to espana...
josh
hollywood, fl USA 01/30/02

FLORENCE HOTEL VALUE!
In Florence, RESIDENCE BELLEVUE, on the web at HTTP://bellevue.interfree.it is a GREAT VALUE. Having stayed there a couple of times, I can't recommend it enough. GREAT LOCATION for train travellers, HUGE AIR-CONDITIONED rooms, all with showers, some with toilets. Easy access to all Florence has to offer. Friendly Antonio will go out of his way to help you experience Florence. THIS SMALL, FRIENDLY HOTEL SHOULD BE IN RICK'S BOOK!!!
falcon
toledo, oh USA 01/28/02

travelling in
We just returned from 7 days in Rome with our 3 sons. We were there over Christmas and had a wonderful time thanks to the book. We stayed at the Hotel Aberdeen — it was fabulous. Everything he said about the accomodations and the 2 gals who run it was right on target. The breakfasts were perfect for our family and we recieved some wonderful recommendations about restaurants. The hotel is warm, friendly and very nice. We had 2 rooms — a triple for the boys and a double for my husband and I. The lobby included a sitting room with a computer with internet access — we were able to email family to keep thme posted about our trip. 2 blocks from our hotel was the subway station which was very easy to figure out. We used the subway often to get across the city. The train terminal was also very closeby and we would have used it more often if our schedule had permitted. What a wonderful time to go to Rome! We went to midnight Mass at the Vatican. We took in so many sights with no crowds. People were so friendly and outgoing. We never felt like strangers in a strange land. The morning after midnight Mass, we slept in — until after noon. Across the street from the Aberdeen is a small deli-a gastronomia — owned by a family having their Christmas luncheon. We came in to get some yogurt and pastries for breakfast. The owner of the place, eating there with her husband and daughter, the service person, broke out a pantione — cake with fruit — and champagne and chocolates — brought us all some and then toasted us — "Merry Christmas!" We felt so welcomed to our little neighborhood. Rick is absolutely right that getting into the life around you makes the trip the best. We ate at wonderful little pizzerias or family like restaurants and had the best food. Our blue-eyed blond haired boys were welcomed everywhere. Language was not a barrier. We were able to get information and assistance everywhere with broken Italian and friendly smiles. Safety was not an issue. We did not have any bad experiences — not even close. Saw a few beggars outside St. Peter's Square, but no problems with pickpockets. Although the weather was cooler than we had anticipated, we did just fine with our zip out fleece lined waterproof jackets. The book gave so many tips about places to go and things to see and restaurants to try. It was the mainstay of our tour guides. Would I go again? In a minute! The best place to stay — Hotel Aberdeen — so close and convenient. Thanks for the recommendation!
Gretchen Farrar-Foley
Milwaukee, WI USA 01/27/02

Travelling In
We just returned from 7 days in Rome with our 3 sons. We were there over Christmas and had a wonderful time thanks to the book. We stayed at the Hotel Aberdeen — it was fabulous. Everything he said was right on target. The breakfasts were perfect for our family and we received some wonderful recommendations about restaurants. The hotel is warm, friendly and very nice. We had 2 rooms — a triple for the boys and a double for my husband and I. The lobby had a sitting room and a computer with internet access. 2 blocks from our hotel was the subway. The train terminal was also close by and we would have used it more often if our schedule had permitted. What a wonderful time to go to Rome! We went to midnight Mass at the Vatican. People were so friendly and outgoing. Across the street from the Aberdeen is a small deli-a gastronomia. We came in to get some breakfast. The owner of the place, eating with her husband and daughter, broke out a pantione — cake with fruit — and champagne and chocolates — brought us all some and then toasted us — "Merry Christmas!" We felt so welcomed to our little neighborhood.

Rick is absolutely right that getting into life around you makes the trip the best. Our blue-eyed blond haired boys were welcomed everywhere. Language was not a barrier. We were able to get information and assistance everywhere with broken Italian and friendly smiles. Safety was not an issue. Saw a few beggars outside St. Peter's Square, but no problems with pickpockets. The book gave so many tips about places to go and things to see and restaurants to try. It was the mainstay of our tour guides.

USA 01/27/02

Venice Rentals at a Bargain!!
I would like to highly recommend an apartment rental company in Venice, Italy.....VeniceRentals.com to be added to your guide books. This company was by far the best I have ever used. They answered my several questions and emails within the same day, they set up dinner reservations, a babysitter for our small children for a night out on our own, and showed us the entire neighborhood (where supermarkets, internet cafes, best restaurants, etc) before bringing us into the apartment and giving us the necessary info. there as well. They were professional and sweet to work with. The site and email address are Venicerentals.com and info@venicerentals.com. Your readers would be at a loss if they didn't get this information. The best thing of all is that they are a superb value. They had several apt. choices to select from starting at $95 a night! I took one for $190 with 2 bedroom, 2 gorgeous bathrooms, a lovely new kitchen and living room. If going to Venice, you couldn't touch this bargain with any hotel. I have seen several 3 and 4 star hotels and they don't compare at all. The owners are Denise and Maurizio. Their phone number in Venice is: 39-041-276-9798.
Phil S
Dallas, TX USA 01/24/02

Hotel Pendini
I also want to speak in support of the Hotel Pendini. My wife and I and our 4 children stayed there in July, and loved it. Yes, its an older hotel, but the staff were great, the breakfast was good and the rooms were serviceable. They gave my 5 year-old a little play set when we checked in that kept her occupied as she accompanied us from museum to gallery etc. The first night we were there they recommended a little family-run restaurant close by that was wonderful, inexpensive and devoid of tourists. It is in a great location, with a close walk to all the main sites and the train station. We would try to stay there if we make it to Florence again.
Dave
Richmond, VA USA 01/21/02

Pendini
I have stayed at the Pendini and even though it's a little "tired" it's well worth the stay. I'm very picky about where I stay and I would return there.
Ann
NY, NY USA 01/19/02

Bad Hotel in FlorenceHotel Pendini: My wife and I were very disappointed with the condition of the Hotel/Pension Pendini. The hallway carpet was dirty and worn. The hallway walls were damaged by water stains and gouges. The double room was very small, and the queen sized bed took up much of the room. The room shown on their internet sight is for a triple room. The paint on the ceiling, doors and trim was dirty, worn, chipped or peeling. The bathroom was very small and had no counter space. The clean towels were laid across the garbage can and bidet after the room was made up each day. Mold was growing on the shower walls, and the drain in the shower plugged up. The toilet required repeated flushes. We could hear the plumbing noises from neighboring rooms throughout the night. The positive aspects of the hotel were the helpful staff, the morning breakfast and the location central to all major sights in Florence. The condition of the accomodations overshadowed the positive points the hotel offered.
Marc Barnes
los alamitis, ca USA 01/17/02

Through Eternity No Show
We were also stood up by Through Eternity for the Colosseum Tour. We had taken two other tours with them with only one problem. Its hard to identify the tour guides at the meeting locations. They wear these small badges, which are hard to spot. But that was not the problem at the Colosseum. Also be wary of the free tours offered around the Colosseum by students. Its a scam to get you to join a paid tour. Hotel des Artistes in Rome was great and close to the main train station and subway.
Marc Barnes
Los Alamitis, ca USA 01/17/02

Venice, Florence and Rome
Venice: our favorite stop. The best part of our 3 week trip was the food at Trattoria Al Cugnai. The seafood was the freshest I've ever tasted. The daily specials were grand and the wine was delightful. It is my favorite memory of our trip. Most of Rick's recommendations are very good. The times we went to other places we were not very impressed. Albergo Paganelli was very nice as well, great location, very small rooms.

Florence: Had a hard time choosing from your hotel list. City Walking Tour company was very knowledgeable and enjoyable. Travelers should stay in the thick of it if they are not staying very long. Rick's best gelateria rec, has the largest variety we found.

Rome: Nearly everything was great! The gelateria Millennium and La Rustichella near Vatican Hotels recs good. A guided tour through St. Peter's, the Forum and Colosseum is relaxing and pleasurable. Rick must delete the Through Eternity tour company from his recommendations. We were on our last day of our trip, the last day in Rome and went to meet our group at the Arch of Constantine for a Colosseum and Forum tour. They faxed a tour confirmation to our hotel two days before and when we arrived no one was there. We joined another tour by another company that just started and cost 15,000 Lira more pp. Incidently it was a great tour, however we were very distraught at first and suspected possible foul play when the tour recruiter for the other company said they have rescued guests who were stood up by Through Eternity tours before. Thanks for making our trip enjoyable and smooth. We felt we were able to make the most of our time with the use of your books and some pre-planning.
Carrie and Andre Roberson
San Diego, CA USA 01/14/02

Venice
Anyone who does not stay in HOTEL RIVA in Venice is "pazzo"! It was the best room I had in Italy, right behind Piazza San Marco and at a great price. All at Mr. Steves' suggestion. Magnifico.
Duke
Jacksonville, FL USA 01/14/02

Marco & The Beehive made Rome The Best
My son and I stayed at a wonder B&B recommended to us by The Beehive, as they were full, This was run by MARCO. It was wonderful !!! Right down the stairs to the metro stop, BEAUTIFUL ROOM, HUGE FURNITURE, and two of the nicest people ever. Anyway, Rome was great, spectacular and fabulous due to Marco and friends.
mom
Jefferson City, mo USA 01/12/02

Hotel Aberdeen in Rome
We stayed at the hotel Aberdeen in Rome in over New Year's. The people who own/run the hotel were considerate and helpful, and concerned about our comfort. It is clean, has good beds, hardwood floors, mini-refrigerators in the rooms and clean in-room toilet/shower/sink bathrooms. They helped us make reservations for the museum in Florence to see the David statue without waiting in line; made suggestions about transportation, etc. The breakfast is a cold buffet that is well-balanced (cereal, yoghurt, fruit, breads, cheeses, juices) with hot cocoa, coffee, etc. The room we had for 3 had two pushed together twin beds for us plus an alcove with a twin bed for our teenager. We would highly recommend this hotel.
Deanne Hay
Topeka, KS USA 01/11/02

Accommodation
Staying at Hotel Kraft later in January so thank you for the positive feedback. Visitors to Venice could try Locanda Art Deco, one of the new budget Inns. It's in a good location close to Accademia but still just in San Marco. Or, Locanda San Barnaba in Dorsoduro.
Wendy Ashworth
London, U K 01/09/02

A hotel I liked
I had a wonderful time at the Kraft Hotel in Florence. It's a high standard, but there are interesting special offers. The shop at the hotel is kind of tacky, but the barman makes up with his great Martini Cocktails! I am a professional backpacker, but now and then I allow myself a treat, and that was a good one.
Daniel Rouger
London, UK 01/04/02

Accomodation on the Italian Riviera
I rented a nice apartment at the Villa Margherita, Levanto, in December for one week. It is a lovely place to stay. The owner is very accomodating. The walk to the train station is under 5 minutes. It's perfect for serving as a base to C.T. I drove to the apartment and used the train for the villages. e-mail: cinqueterreproperties@yahoo.it www.cinqueterreproperties.com
Samuel Franklin
San Mateo, CA USA 01/03/02

I'm a big fan of The Beehive
Re CJ's 12/26 posting: See "Best European Hostels" section for The Beehive's response, which certainly justifies the charge. My own wonderful experience with the Beehive strongly inclines me to believe their version.
Mary from Oregon
USA 01/03/02

Christmas & New Year's in Italy
My husband and I were in Italy over Christmas and New Year's. For anyone thinking of going to Italy next summer, please reconsider and go in the off season (ideally Oct-Dec). Our trip was magical! We knew it would be cold (30's to 40's) so we were prepared. It was well worth it!

We started in Varenna on Lake Como. We stayed at Albergo Olivedo. It was fabulous. Lots of European charm: antique furniture, creaky wood floors, lumpy mattresses, hot water only at certain times of the day. It's in a great location close to the train station, and right next to the ferry stop. If you visit Varenna, you MUST have a meal at this hotel. Our room included breakfast and dinner for 250,000 lire per night.

Next stop was Venice. We stayed at Hotel Ala. This hotel is for those who have had enough of European charm and want a little American comfort: Full bath, minibar, heated towel rack, in-room safe, full breakfast buffet (in room for only $2.50 extra). It's in a ritzy shopping area (the shopping in Venice is fabulous!) at the Giglio vaporetto stop, just 2 blocks from St. Mark's. When we reserved the room we were told it would would be 270,000 lire per night. When they billed us, it was higher. Make sure you print out all of you correspondance and bring it with you as proof. This saved us $50/night.

We stayed in Manarola in the Cinque Terre for two nights at Capellini's Rooms. We had a basic room with bath and balcony for 80,000 lire per night. What a deal. However, do not even think about staying in Manarola if you are aerobically challenged! The hike up the hill is very steep and exhausting after a day of exploring. Monterosso or Vernazza would be better. In Manarola, dinner at Trattoria Billy (the only restaurant at the top of the hill) was fabulous. And when in Italy, chocolate lovers must try the tartufo, a rich chocolate ice cream.

We don't recommend staying at Rudy's B & B (associated withe the Beehive) in Rome. We reserved a room with bath, but when we arrived, we were told that we would have to share a bath. Two days later this was resolved, but the place was very noisy and not in the best area. And the lift was unreliable (Rudy's is on the 5th floor!)

Rome was packed over the weekend prior to New Year's. If you are planning a day for the Vatican Museum and St. Peter's, see the museum first because the line outside the museum gets very long and you will wait in another line inside for tickets, and a third line to get into the Sistine Chapel.

Our best meals of the entire trip were at Albergo Olivedo and in Rome at a place just off Campo di Fiori called Ai Balestrari. It's conveniently located across the plaza from a Blue Ice gelato shop! The Baccisimo Blanca at Blue Ice is a little bit of heaven! Train tip: Before you go, look up the train schedules online and print out some options for all of you train trips. This helped a lot when trying to buy tickets from someone who did not speak English.
Beth R.
San Diego, CA USA 01/02/02