More Feedback on Rick Steves' Italy 2003
Please share any ways we can improve or fix this guidebook. Are there recommendations in this book that disappointed you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
(Please note: Feedback on specific hotels, costs, etc. is deleted yearly after Rick uses it to update his guidebook. However, general, timeless recommendations are left here online.)
Smart Bed and Breakfast in ROME
This is a clean and nice place to stay. Very close to the main train station but quiet and safe! Plus a friendly owner!!! Highly recommended!!! Value for money!*please contact email isajiang@virgilio.it ---
Michael <email>
Sheffield, UK 12/30/03
What's the Buzz about the Beehive
I went all over Europe last January and I would have to say that my FAVORITE place we stayed was The Beehive hotel in Rome. I was pleased to see it in the 2004 Italy book, which I just bought for my upcoming study abroad trip to Florence.
Katie and I arrived a day early in Rome and we were going to be staying in the Beehive's "dorm" room the next two nights - we had originally found the hotel in a hostel book we had bought. There were no beds left in the dorm room when we got there, but we got a 60E double room - after a ridiculous overnight train trip from Interlaken, we were ready for a shower! The hotel is really beautiful! It has a nice courtyard out in front with flowers and the inside is absolutely pristine. The bathrooms were very nice - we shared both with our double room and in the dorm room. There is some street noise if you face the street, but we never found it to be a problem, especailly given how close it is to Termini.
The best part of the Beehive was the staff. They were so awesome - the two Americans who own the place have put together their own guide book to Rome that they give you - for free - that Rick would definitely be proud of. It has great recommendations for not-touristy places. One restaurant we went to over by the Colosseum we walked by several times (there was no sign) but when we opened up the door it was filled to the brim with Italians! The Beehive is fantastic. I'm sure it gets packed in the tourist months, so make sure to reserve. When I take another trip to Rome during my study abroad, I will for sure stay there again. www.the-beehive.com
Abby P. <email>
Minneapolis, MN USA 12/29/03
Rome's Termini
I was in Rome for the first time in November 2003 and used the Rick Steves' Rome 2004 book as my bible. It was an invaluable reference. My comment is regarding the Termini in Rome. The book laments the long 10-minute walk from the far tracks used by the Leonardo Express. I encountered this upon arrival in Rome. However, on the way back to the airport, my taxi driver asked where I was headed on the train. When I told him I was going to Fiumicino, he drove me to the Termini entrance directly adjacent to Track 26. All I had to do was walk up the stairs and I was right there, ready to board the Leonardo!
John <email>
Chicago, IL USA 12/27/03
Vernazza, Cinque Terre Paradise
This is the paradise, folks. You have just to call some people and reserve a room and you can be part of all this.There are 5 towns,but the most amazing of all is Vernazza. This town has a piazza in which you can sit, have a cappuccinno and look at the ocean, with the ancient churchbell and the castle in the corners. There are no words to explain such a gorgeous town. I stayed in October at Francamaria Rooms. Some of the rooms have a sea view and some with no view. You can visit the website www.francamaria.com. I was in a large room in the front of the piazza and the ocean,with a pretty bath inside (with shower!). This room was simply fantastic, perfectly cleaned. Thank you Rick for listing Francamaria in your lovely book..and letting us know about Vernazza.
bill hamster
Fort Worth, TX USA 12/26/03
accomodations in rome
smart bed and breakfast was an excellent place to stay when touring in Rome. it has a great location, near the train station and close to all the important sights, with friendly, family style service. i would recommend staying here to anybody! www.bandbromeitaly.com www.downtownaccomodation.com
Anthony Kramer <email>
Madison, WI USA 12/24/03
Sleeping in Italy
I just led a small group of friends and two of my children on an incredible Italian adventure. We used your 2003 book to help us plan the trip and you were on the money with your suggestions. We travelled for 10 days starting in Milan, the to Venice, to Florence, to Rome, to Sorrento and back to Rome. We used trains, great way to go, and finished up from Sorrento on by car.
Adding to your recomendations: we stayed at Bernina hotel in Milan. Great place very cheap. I will stay there again. Florence stayed at Soggiorno Battistero. Fantastic place location wise and clean and very nice owner. Don't drag your luggage though lots of steps to get to the place.
Most of all I want you to check out Il Nido in Sorrento that is not on your list that simply has to be added. I saw it suggested by some of your readers on this graffitti page. This was the best hotel we stayed, and they were all good, at during our trip. The location was fantastic the service was great, the view breathtaking and very inexpensive. Easy to get to positano from this hotel and the amalfi coast. We ate at the hotel both nights and the food was great. If you are in the naples area don't stay anywhere else. My friends and I will go back to Sorrento and we will stay at Il Nido. Thanks for the info. Buon Natale e Felice Anno Nuovo!
tony mannino <email>
st louis, MO USA 12/22/03
Italian Riviera & Cinque Terre
Villa Margherita in Levanto, the doorway to the Cinque Terre, is wonderful. I have visited Federico two years in a row. He picks me up at the train station and his breakfast is great. I love the area. He is the most effecient Italian I have met so far. I had to take my son and his wife so they could stay at Federico's Villa Margherita ( info@villamargherita.net www.villamargherita.net)
Steve Palombelli
New York, NY USA 12/13/03
Amalfi Coast / Capri
In November 2003 my wife and I went back to this area for the third straight year. We find few crowds at this time of the year and really get to enjoy the area in its' tranquil mode. On the Amalfi Coast the only problem we had was finding the off-season SITA bus schedule, but buses were frequent and it really didn't pose a huge problem for us. We just asked a local at the bus stop and found out when the next bus ran.
We stayed four nights at La Tavolozza in Positano and had our usual wonderful stay with Celeste. The views are fantastic from her balconies and since the rooms are below the street level, there is no noise at all during the night. Since reading about this B&B before our trip in Rick's book, this has become our favorite places to stay on the Amalfi Coast. There are two nice places to dine up in Montepertuso and both will send a van to pick you up at your hotel. Da Costantino is in Rick's book and we enjoyed our meal there. We also dined at Il Ritrovo in the town square at Montepertuso and had an economical and nice meal there. Both places are worth a visit.
We spent three nights on Capri and had a nice visit there. The chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro is quite an experience, but not for anyone that had a fear of heights. The views over Capri and Anacapri are beautiful. We dined all three nights at Trattoria Il Tinello. It is located behind the church and up in old town Capri on 1 Via L'Abate. Dinner never begins here until 8 or later and reservations are a must, so have your hotel call for you. Peppino will tell you what he has cooked up and you will not be disappointed. Also the Pizzeria Barbarossa in Anacapri in the main square has the best pizza on the island.
We rode the Marozzi bus from Rome to Sorrento and found this to be a nice way to get to the Amalfi Coast. We took the train back from Salerno. There are a few Eurostar trains that leave Salerno and only stop at the Naples train station, without having to change trains, which is a more pleasant way to get back to Rome. Watch for the Taxi drivers at the Rome station. I had 3 of them that wanted Euro 20-30 to get me to my hotel. They even got in a fisfight in the middle of the street! I went to the taxi stand and got a cab that went by the meter, which only cost Euro 7 to get me there.
Bruce <email>
USA 12/10/03
ANTICHE CANTINE ARDENGHI
VENICE, ITALY. I DISAGREE COMPLETELY WITH RICHARD HUDSON,I'D LIKE TO SAY THAT IT WAS ONE OF THE HIGLIGHTS OF MY TRIP,MR.MICHAEL SPEAKS SEVERAL LANGUEGES AND WE HAD VERY ENJOYABLE DINING EXPERIENCES RECENTLY " AL PARADISO " THANK YOU MICHAEL THANK YOU RICK STEVE.
GUY
TULSA, OK USA 12/05/03
Italy and hotels in Italy
I just came back from 3 weeks in Italy in Oct. 2003. I use Rick Steves books all the time, but some comments on hotels especially...prices are at least $10.00 and more than published. I think a section ought to be added on Lucca. What a lovely city. I am going back in May 2004 and spend 3 days and go into Florence for a day trip. I liked the Hotel Althea in Florence great bargin. I am trying to find a hotel in Rome and the Hotel Navona was one I was interested in because of its location, but they require a travelers check for $300.00 sent registred mail. That should be in the description I think that should be mentioned. They were very nice, but now I will look elsewhere. I am a fan of his books however...The cinque terre is (Vernazza) a Rick Steves town, but thats a good thing I guess. Rick is so right about traveling light.
Dee Ann Murdock <email>
San Diego, CA USA 12/05/03
Rome
Just finished a trip to Rome in November. Stayed at the Hotel Navona for over a week to hang out and enjoy the city. We enjoyed our stay there. Our 7 yr old son loved it. It was reasonably priced, clean and staff was very helpful. Location was fabulous so close to Pantheon. We initially took cabs and public transport but eventually figured out it was so close to everything we walked everywhere. Only took transit to satisfy our son's curiosity. This hotel was in the RS 2003 which when we booked was probably the current copy . Notice it's now been omitted from the 2004 edition. There is now no comparably (cheap) priced hotel for that part of town in RS's recommendations. Having stayed in the ancient part of town with its charm, atmosphere and location, I don't think I would want to stay in any other part of town.
hdw <email>
USA 12/04/03
Naples Crime
My wife and I just returned from a 10 day stay in Italy. We started in Milan, then went on to Naples to take in the culture and people of the city. We read and re-read Rick's recent article on Naples, particularly the part where one should put their fears aside, and venture out into the streets to experience the hanging laundry, meet the people etc. Well we did just that, staying at a 4 star hotel adjacent to the Duomo (the Carravagio). We set out in daylight and made a mistake.
I took out my camera and took a picture of my wife standing in the street just outside our hotel, under rows of drying laundry. Soon after putting the camera back in our tote bag, along came a thief on a Vespa, snatching the camera and bag from under my arm. I gave chase but to no avail, only to arouse the dogs on the street and a few locals who had the opportunity to intervene but chose not to do so. Almost a code of the street, or the neighborhood or worse yet I fear, of the entire city.
The report to the police was an experience in futility. After waiting 45 minutes, an officer who understood minimal English, proceeded to pull out a 1 inch pile of theft report forms in many different languages until he fould one in English. We filled it out, he signed it, put 5 different stamps on the original, made 7 copies, and gave one to us to keep.
I'm posting this as I think your readers should know that to traverse the streets of Naples is to surrender some of the joys of being a tourist in a foreign land. One has to be ever mindful and vigilant of all that is around you, especially those Neapolitans who would abuse rather than converse with those of us who bring our US $ into their economy.
Bob Booth <email>
Washington Twp,, NJ USA 12/03/03
Rome lodging
We just returned from Rome (Nov 03) Rick Steves' book was extremely helpful. We stayed at Residenza Cellini on Via Modena. It was charming, immaculately clean, the beds were very comfortable. We stayed in the junior suite with our two children; very roomy and the bathroom was luxurious with bidet and jacuzzi tub. We were treated like family. Asking for cappucinno at midnight was never an inconvenience to the staff. I would absolutely stay there again. One major negative about Rome: everybody smokes; bring your gas mask. November is a wonderful time to travel, as lines were not terribly long to the major sights.
Joe & Micheline Toohey <email>
Naples, Fl USA 12/01/03
corrections and comments
We've just returned from our 3rd Italian vacation in 4 years. Needness to say, we love Italy, and are already planning a Spring '04 trip. Here are a couple of suggestions, and one correction.
The correction: the vaporetto from Murano to Burano leaves from the Faro stop, not from the Colonna stop. But as always, you should ask the 'gate keeper' on the vaporetto if he's going where you want to go. Sometimes the number of the vaporetto is different from the one you thought you needed to take, but it will be stopping where you wanted to go, anyway. We've never been answered with anything but courtesy when we've asked, and we've been saved from some very time consuming errors.
Suggestions: if you want to use a washcloth, take your own. They don't exist in Italian hotels. Better yet, take along one of those net puff things. The maid won't confuse it for something that belongs to the hotel, and most important, those puffs dry almost immediately, so you won't be carrying a damp, nasty washcloth from one city to another.
Be sure to validate your train ticket. Just buying it isn't enough, you have to then validate it in one of the many yellow boxes all around the train station. We didn't know this, but the conductor on the Milan/Venice train was nice enough to explain it to us, and then didn't charge us the fine.
Lastly, I want to thank Rick for his very funny, often irreverent comments about the art works in museums and churches. We enjoyed sharing his sense of humor.
Sally <email>
Sherman Oaks, C A USA 11/23/03
Italy
My wife and I visited Florence, Rome and the Cinque Terra last year and saved lots of money using Rick Steves' guide books for hotels, meals, etc. By the way, you can usually save more money by e-mailing the hotels. We saved 10-30% more. Going again next year.
Jim <email>
Denver, NC USA 11/22/03
Italy & France
My girlfriend and I traveled to Italy and France and had a great trip thanks to Rick Steves’ guidebooks and all his other services. The guidebooks were so complete but the maps could have been a little more complete.
We went first to Roma. We did it in one day but I wish we had longer. Roma had so many things to see. We stayed at Hotel Oceania. Our room was very nice and service was friendly. Web: www.hoteloceania.it.
Our next stop was Siena, and we stayed at Albergo Bernini Hotel. It was home-like. Tel: 0577-289-047, e-mail: hbernin@tin.it , www.albergobernini.com. I would recommend staying at least four days in Siena. Rent a car and drive around to other towns.
Cinque Terre: Rick Steves’ was right, Vernaza is a fantastic little town. We stayed at Tonino Basso, Tel: 0187-821-264, Cell 335-269-436, email: toninobasso@libero.it The rooms are modern and come with a computer so you can email.
We ended our trip in France, beginning in Paris, staying at Grand Hotel Leveque on the Rue Cler; info@hotel-leveque.com. The hotel was ok, but I would check around next time for a better place. Rue Cler is a good place to start your day. Paris was magnificent! I can’t wait to return.
We went to Beaune, in Burgundy, and stayed at Hotel De France. E-mail: hotfrance.beaune.wanadoo.f35. Tel: 03 80 24 10 34. The rooms were nice and clean and the restaurant was a dream come true. I wish we had spent more time in Beaune. Do not go on the “Wine Safari Minibus Tour” from Beaune. It cost more than it’s worth and you spend most of the time in the van.
Gregory Mayfield <email>
Pleasant Hill, CA USA 11/22/03
Good Italian taxi tours
We just returned from a very enjoyable trip/cruise to Europe and wanted to let you know how pleased we were with the services of Taxi Benvenuto (suggested in Rick's book). We appreciated their ability to help us with our last minute request and provide us with very professional and knowledgeable drivers in Livorno (tour to Florence and Pisa), Civitavecchia (tour of Rome) and Naples (tour of Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast). We were on a Mediterranean cruise and chose Taxi Benvenuto’s service over the excursions offered by the cruise line. The drivers were prompt at each port (3). With 8 of us in two families, I'm sure we were able to see much more than we would have if we had taken the excursions or tried to rent a car, and the cost was about a third of what we would have had to pay!
In particular, we especially enjoyed our day in the Naples area, where we were thoroughly impressed with both Giovanni, our driver, and the guide they arranged for us in Pompeii. That day was certainly the highlight of our trip! Great value, informative & courteous drivers: I highly recommend Benvenuto Chauffeur service (www.benvenutolimos.com or www.taxibenvenuto.com).
Thank you so much for your advice and for helping to make our European trip a most enjoyable and memorable experience.
Mary O'Connor
Mill Creek, Wa , USA 11/21/03
Venice and the Cinque Terre
Just returned from a great 2-week trip to Italy. This time, our 3rd trip, we followed Rick's recommendations all the way and had a great vacation, which didn't cost a fortune. 4 nights in Venice at the Hotel alla Salute we found very restful. The location was perfect, the mattresses wonderful and the room very quiet - all you could hear were church bells. There was no TV, but who needs a TV in Venice!
On to the Italian Riviera. We stayed at Hotel Fasce in Santa Margherita and would go back in a minute. The owner Jane was so incredibly helpful and nice, the room was beautiful, the hotel and grounds as well and it was a nice location to base when exploring the area. We took the local train two days in a row to see all 5 towns in the "Cinque Terre" and it worked out really well. The pristine beauty of the Cinque Terre amazed us. The people were nice, the food was amazing and the wine even better. Keep in mind that we went at the end of October/beginning of November, so there were no crowds, but still nice weather for being outdoors.
We walked the two easy trails (from Riomaggiore to Manarola and then from Manarola to Corneglia) first. Very easy. The next day we walked the trail from Vernazza to Monterosso and I must say I had a really difficult time. I am in good shape, that wasn't the problem. I thought it was quite dangerous and not for the faint-hearted. There were 3 or 4 spots where I actually considered turning back, because I thought it too dangerous to go on, but I didn't want to go back either. People should be warned that this hike is not for the faint of heart, or anyone who has vertigo!
All told, our best vacation yet. We will always check Rick's guidebooks first, wherever we travel. Thank you so much!
Barbara Ricciardi
Denville, NJ USA 11/16/03
Albergo Marin, Venice
Albergo Marin hotel in Venice was great. Friendly, clean, good breakfast included in the price. We walked in without a reservation and had a room within 5 minutes. 100 euro for room for 3 people and private bath. Conveniently located and easy to find. Would stay again and will recommend it to friends.
Faith Luccioni <email>
Brooklyn, NY USA 11/14/03
Venice: Albergo Marin is a winner!
What a difference "under new management" makes! After reading a few comments made by disgruntled visitors from the past, I am more than happy to add news from the present--staying at the Albergo Marin in Venice was the perfect way to begin my travels through Italy. At (Euro) 55/night my room was a steal. The location was superb, but one thing stood out more than my room.
I was greeted by the more-than-helpful Gabriele. He went out of his way to make sure my stay was a pleasant and memorable one. He's a winner and I'd gladly go to Venice again to stay at the Albergo Marin and say "hi" to him.
When new management takes over, old comments/reviews should be ignored. Now they are misleading. Anyone headed to Northern Italy should definitely include plans to stay at the Albergo Marin in Venice if they wanted to be treated with dignity and respect.
Clint Adams <email>
Oakland, CA USA 11/13/03
Rist. Grotta S. Caterina da Bagoga - fabulous!
The Ristorante Grotta S. Caterina da Bagoga was fabulous in Siena! We ate there three nights in a row and never had a bad meal. Good variety - not just pasta.
Lori Sherwood <email>
San Diego, CA USA 11/09/03
Veneto and Dolomites
My wife and I focused a late September trip in the Veneto and the Dolomites. Rick recommends Castelrotto as a great town from which to visit the Dolomites and we agree. A good Sud-Tirol place to stay is Haus Silbernagl. The house, run by the charming and enthusiastic Petra, is a good value at 40.50E/person. The rooms are large and spotless. Petra serves a great breakfast. The main square is a 5 minute walk. Parking at the house is convenient. Visit their web-site at: www.garni-silvernagl.com. In the Veneto, we stayed at the agriturismo Fattoria Grimana only a few km from Vicenza and easy access to the main autostrata. We stayed in a large (would sleep 5) "bio-apartment" for 77E/night. The rooms are new and very clean. Breakfast is the traditional for the area, sweets, juice and strong coffee. There are many "local" restaurants within a few minutes drive where good regional dishes are served. Order the baccala if you are brave. The web site for the agriturismo is: www.agriturismofattoriatrimana.it. One last comment, the dollar was weak and many prices for attractions in Ricks 2003 book have already gone up.
Larry <email>
Florence, KY USA 11/09/03
Venetian restaurant
Our best dining experience in all of Italy ? "antiche cantine ardenghi" in venice; it was truly the best dininig experience we had in all of Italy, everything was excellent. you become one of the family! i would like to say thanks to Rick Steves.
Michele Horn <email>
New York, NY USA 11/06/03
Siena -Restaurant
While in Siena, Italy October 23-25, 2003, for our son's wedding, we had a truly unbelievable dinner at Ristorante Guidoriccio, just around the corner from the IlCampo on Via Dupre! Run by an Italian couple, with very light & bright brick vaulted ceilings. While having our wine, the waiter (owner) carefully explained each item on the menu in english for us.The food was stupendous! Marvelous! Moderate pricing. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay, and the owners made us feel so welcome. This place was not in the Rick Steves guidebook, but it should be!!!
Jim Castino <email>
Fox Island, WA USA 11/05/03
Doni Hotel Venice, Italy
Do not stay at the Doni Hotel. It is not clean and the staff is hostile. It would be better to stay out of Venice in the Lido than to land here.
Eileen McDermott <email>
portland, OR USA 11/04/03
Accomodation in Rome
A fabulous hotel that we got off lots of research from this site is Residenza Cellini....fabulous place! It was extremely clean, huge rooms, we stayed in 3 different suites (we kept going back!) all were beautiful, with breakfast included. Extremely helpful staff, great location, everything about it was brilliant.
Leigh Evans <email>
Sydney, AUSTRALIA, NSW AUSTRALIA 11/01/03
IL Nido Hotel, Sorrento
We travelled to Sorrento in September 2003. We booked into IL Nido which is not in Rick Steves book, but we heard good things about it, so we booked there. I do not recommend this hotel, its so far from the main area, and 25 Euro for a taxi into town. The owner Gianni is very unfriendly, a change from when we were booking over the phone. Rooms are very run down, a fabulous view, but shabby decor. Also they have a very strange rule about having friends visit your room. My brother in law wasn't allowed to visit me, he was asked to wait in the foyer....weird!! It's run like a monastery. I suggest a much better hotel very close to town with amazing huge rooms and views overlooking Mt Vesuvius and the Bay of Napoli: Minerva Hotel. It's brilliant.
Leigh Evans <email>
Australia, NSW Australia 11/01/03
Florence Hotel
We travelled through Italy in Aug/Sept 2003.....our best hotel experience was in Florence at Panella's Residence. Fabulous!!! You all must stay there, if you can get a booking...The owners of this residence, Graziela and her husband...were unbeleivably helpful. They have 6 difference type suites to choses from. We stayed on their top floor, 3 of us, a big king size bed and a single bed, in 2 separate huge rooms (also a downstairs writing type room...huge!) We had our own terrace which was gorgeous, overlooking the rooftops of Florence. Very close to all main attractions, and they were so helpful in guiding us where to go. And only 200 Euro's a night....much cheaper than other places and no comparison! Breakfast included, very good also. HIGHLY recommend this place...fabulous.
Leigh Evans <email>
Sydney, Australia, nsw Australia 11/01/03
Florence, Pisa, Siena and Venice
Went to Italy with my sister from Oct. 4 to Oct. 12. We stayed 5 nights in Florence at the Soggiorno Pezzati Alessandra, one of Rick's suggestions. I have no complaints. The room we had was very quiet and very clean. We stayed there for 60 euros a night. A great bargain. Just pay in cash. It is south of the Arno river, in the Oltrarno area. It isn't in the city center but it is walking distance from the sights in my opinion. Will definitely stay there again.
Florence is beautiful. We visited everything that needed to be visited. I highly recommend going to the Uffizi at 8:15 in the morning if you aren't making reservations because it fills up fast. One surprise for me was the scale of Michaelangelo's David in the Acadamia. I had always assumed it was a regular sized statue. It is practically 2 stories high and mesmerizing to look at.
My best meal in Florence was at the Siubbe Rosse in the the Piazza Republicca. I had the Parmesan Risotto. It came out steaming and was incredibly delicious. Talk about comfort food.
While in Florence we took day trips to Pisa and Siena. If you go to Pisa, please don't just see the tower. Fork over a few euros and go inside the Duomo there. It is spectacular. One of he best I have seen. Yes, the tower leans but the Duomo made it all worth the trip.
Siena is amazing and so interesting to look at. I recommend buying a map to navigate thru the city. Also, if you're in the Campo, recall what side you entered in on, so you can exit the same way.
In Venice we stayed at San Geremia, one of Rick's suggestions in his Venice 2004 edition. It was a great hotel in this little Campo. We had a view of the church just across from the hotel. Plus, there are a ton of eating places in this area. This hotel is right down the Lista di Spagna. Right near the train station. I highly recommend staying near the train station in Venice. One thing I didn't want was to lug my luggage on to a water taxi. It was nice to just roll it down a street. Rick needs to check out more hotels in this area, it is soooo convenient.
Venice in general is a beautiful city. I loved walking over canals and trying to navigate thru the city. It was quite an adventure. St. Mark's Square had way too many tourists but a must see if you are going to the city. I just wouldn't linger. I found Venice more enjoyable in the less touristed spots. We found the way to St. Marks without taking a vaporetto. It is like a 15 to 20 minute walk but will take longer if you stop at one of the hundreds of shops along the way.
We also visited the lagoon island of Murano that has all the glass works. Nice side trip.
This is my second trip to Italy and first trip dealing with Euros. The first was to Rome a few years ago. I do remember not having to pay to go into churches. Now it seems churches cost around 2 to 5 euros to enter. Throughout our trip we had incredible weather. It only rained once in Florence for 30 minutes. Italy was FAB!
Terry Lowry <email>
Dallas, TX USA 11/01/03
Venice hotel
Thanks to Rick Steve's book we found the perfect place to stay for our visit to Venice. We just returned yesterday (10/30/03) and want to let you know how well our stay at the Albergo Marin turned out. Its location close to the train station and a waterbus stop made access to everything perfect. The hotel had nice big rooms with everything we needed. Best of all, with the new management, the people in charge could not have been more helpful or gracious! As with every place, people truly make the difference! Thank you again Rick Steves!
Sheila C
New Berlin, WI USA 10/31/03
Reifenstein Castle
My wife and I had hoped to see Reifenstein Castle on our trip from Hall in Tirol to the Italian Dolomites. Although the sign states a min. of 4 people, we were 2 and had another person there that wanted to take the 2 pm tour. My wife is handicapped but made the walk up to the Castle. It took us over 1/2 hour due to her obvious problems. The "kind" lady of the Castle smiled at us and said no as she slammed the door in our face! It's unfortunate that she had no compassion for a woman who had gone through so much trouble to see her castle. I would not give that woman a dime to see her castle! If you do go, make sure you have at least 4 people.
Paul Alesi <email>
Netcong, NJ USA 10/30/03
B&B in Umbria
My husband and I stayed in Stroncone at La Porta del Tempo B&B on the day of the great blackout in Italy. Christina's baking made for an excellent breakfast. A wonderful place to stay. They are gracious. Their website is www.portadeltempo.com.
Lynn Wright <email>
SC USA 10/28/03
Hotel Loreley was moldy
In Sorrento, I stayed at Hotel Loreley. The staff was moderately helpful, the view was great, and the price was reasonable. However, my room was moldy. There were water stains on the wall, and I could hear dripping from time to time. It smelled bad and was just a musty humid. The tiles had mildew on the grout. I'm not a clean freak, but it was very disgusting to me. I could barely sleep. I was in room 30, next to the downstairs bathrooms, and people used it all hours of the night. With a lack of sound-proofing, it was as if someone was urinating next to your bed. Plus, people were up late, then the staff was up early banging around. It's worth paying extra money to stay somewhere else.
C
CA USA 10/28/03
Rome, et al.
I was in Italy last spring for a month and used Rick Steves' 2003 Italy guidebook to get around Milan, Florence, Rome, Sorrento, Naples, Amalfi, Siena, Venice and places in between. I found a few minor inaccuracies in the book, but mostly it had all the info I needed to find decent lodgings and good places to eat, navigate the tourist attractions, and get from one place to the other without too much hassle. It was my very first trip outside the U.S. and also my first solo trip anywhere, and I was a little nervous about going, but I had a spectacular time and plan to return next spring and definitely will use Rick's guidebook again (2004 ed.). A couple of observations:
I was impressed by how safe I felt everywhere I went in Italy, even after dark in Rome. The only odd thing to happen to me in Rome happened in broad daylight in crowds: I was targeted by a pickpocket on the infamous #64 bus (from the Termini to the Vatican). However, having read about bus #64 in Rick’s book, I was prepared for the the thief (money belt worn under my underwear; nothing in my pockets except loose change; purse containing guidebook and camera grasped tightly in front of me) and no harm done.
As far as lodgings in Rome go, the Smart B&B (0039-06-483892; www.bandbromeitaly.com), a few blocks south of the Termini and a block from Santa Maria Maggiore Church on Via Farina, was a good deal (at about $70 Euro/night) with four large, comfy, and relatively quiet rooms that share a large, luxurious bathroom. There is an elevator up to the flat, and the hostess, Isa Jiang, is warm and helpful and speaks good English. She and her husband and son were particularly kind to me, treating me to dinner on Easter Sunday because I “shouldn’t be alone so far from home on Easter) and then later taking me into their own home when I missed a train connection and couldn’t get a room reservation for the night because it was Saturday of a 4-day holiday weekend and there were no vacancies anywhere.
One thing I will do differently in future is pack a lot lighter! Lugging 70 pounds of luggage over the cobbled streets and slinging it onto trains was no fun, and I ended up not using about ½ of what I brought anyway!
Mary Kip <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 10/23/03
Venice: Antiche Cantine Ardenghi
My husband and I just returned from Venice. We stayed in the new Michele end Lucia restaurant. Many thanks to Rick Steve.
Donna Fisher <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 10/22/03
Accommodation - Milan
Milan - beware Hotel Demo. As a woman travelling alone I chose it from the internet because it was 5 minutes from the railway station and was said to feature lots of local artwork. Having paid a deposit by credit card, arrived there hot and tired at the end of the day only to find they'd overbooked, even though I'd reconfirmed a few days before, by email. Got very grumpy but was directed to Hotel Edolo, 10 mins further on, and taken to a deathtrap room at the top of the stairs (no lift), no windows (only 2 small blacked out skylights which I couldn't reach, even by jumping on the bed!), but it was clean and comfortable, if inconveniently located.
Linda Halliday <email>
USA 10/22/03
Cinque Terre
Thanks for the tips on the Cinque Terre. I based myself at Vernazza, staying at Eremo sul Mare, a tiny B&B accessible to the fit and determined! It was a shortish but very steep hike around the hill just to the south of the town, and I found out about it from someone else who'd written about it on your website. Definitely not for the fainthearted or heavily laden - no suitable paths for wheeled suitcases, and the steps are designed for long legs! Made the mistake of walking from Monterosso to Vernazza rather than the reverse, which is said to be easier. Great foccaccia-based pizza in Monterosso, by the way!
Linda Halliday <email>
Christchurch, NZ 10/22/03
Rick's Italy
Wonderfully helpful book, as always. Must comment on the Residence Adler in Rome. While Rick described their rooms, I think, as "elegant," we wouldn't go any better than "utilitarian" or, perhaps, "spartan." But maybe some of the other rooms were better. It was a two-star hotel after all and was, in fact, in a great location. Anyway, the enthusiastic staff more than made up for the room, and the breakfast nook was a delight.
Later in La Spezia, we were driven almost to distraction trying to find the parking garage that Rick said was close to the train station. We intended to leave our rental car in La Spezia and take the train over to Cinque Terre but were confounded by the instructions to the "garage" that we received from the TI at the train station. We finally gave up and drove over to Vernazza, a drive that I would actually recommend as it turned out. The road wasn't that bad, paved all the way, and narrowed to one-car width only over the last kilometer or so. Quite an experience, and I intend to include it's successful navigation on my resume.
Heartily concur with Rick's description of the traffic in Florence. We drove there only to drop off the rental then spend a couple of nights in the Pensione Pendini, a wonderful hotel right in the center of things, as Rick said.
One of the highlights of our two weeks in Italy was the agriturismo in Tuscany named Malverino, which Rick did not specifically mention but should have. (Check out their website). Just about five kilometers south of Assisi and overlooking the most beautiful Tuscan valley one can imagine. It offered very nice rooms, a swimming pool, a riding stable, and nightly dinners prepared by Grandma, who gives cooking lessons on the side. You can imagine what those meals were like: five different courses each night with wine and after-dinner drinks for E20. We were considering not telling anyone about it, but decided to share. Use it as your base while you explore hilltowns in the region. We'd put Italy at the top of anyone's list considering a trip to Europe. Don't forget Rick's book.
Robert Lee <email>
Annapolis, MD USA 10/21/03
Italian Riviera
Just back from two wonderful weeks in Italy thanks to Rick's books and contributors' advice. Thank you everyone!
The Villa Margherita B&B in Levanto near the Cinque Terre was wonderful. Federico is very patient with guests prior to arrival and just as wonderful afterward. As a matter of fact, we found the entire staff to be a delight. Location of the Villa Margherita turned out to be ideal. In Levanto, we found the pizzeria Taverna Garibaldi a great place after a long day of walking. We did try the famous "farinata della casa" and recommend it to everyone. Service was perfect and food delicious.
For day trips, we highly reccomend Portofino. For a break from the guidebook, we took a day tour to Varese Ligure and the Val di Vara Valley. We highly recommend Varese Ligure!!
Thomas Patry
Rochester, NY USA 10/21/03
Antiche Cantine Ardenghi, Venice
Please note that one of Rick's restaurant picks in Venice, the Antiche Cantine Ardenghi, has moved temporarily (?) to the island of Murano, and that according to the owner, Michele, the new atmosphere is quite a bit different (i.e., "much more modern") from the description in Rick's guidebook.
bob and ann kingston <email>
portland, or USA 10/19/03
Eating in Venice
Two of our favorite restaurants are located in the sestiere of Castello. The first is Al Mascaron (Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa 5525), a bustling osteria frequented mainly by locals, that's known for its excellent fish dishes. This place fills up quickly, so expect to wait for a table. Also, there's not much English spoken, so it's best to brush up on a few Italian phrases before you go.
Our second recommendation, also a favorite with the locals, is the Tratorria alla Rivetta (at the base of the Ponte San Provolo, Campo San Filippo 4625). If you walk by at 7:30, there'll only be a few diners inside; by 8:30, there's a line out the door. The place to get fegato alla veneziana (calves' liver fried with salt, pepper, and onions), and a great selection of grappa, too. If you're lucky, you'll be sharing a digestivo with your table companions before the night is through.
bob and ann kingston <email>
portland, or USA 10/19/03
Residenza Cellini/Rome
We were lucky to book 4 of the 6 beautiful newly renovated rooms at the Residenza Cellini this past June. It is a most elegant convenient place to stay. The breakfast and service was superb and made our time in Rome quite special!
Bonnie Bayuk <email>
New Haven, CT USA 10/15/03
Manarola, Cinque Terre
Just returned from a week in Italy, with three nights in Manarola, Cinque Terre. Excellent stay at Da Barranin B&B in Manarola. Room was spacious & clean, and the owner was understanding when our train was late (after hours.) Great seafood antipasto and pesto pasta at Taverna Del Capita in Vernazza. My favorite town was Corniglia, very charming, although each town has its own personality. We even saw Thomasina from Rick's video! Views of the Mediterranean are breathtaking. Not for people who can't walk uphill. Thanks Rick!
Herb
USA 10/15/03
Hotel Star, Milan
I would think twice about recommending or booking hotel reservations with Hotel Star. My boyfriend and I just spend two incredible weeks in Italy, ending our trip in Milan. We agree the location was convenient, the reception area pleasant and the bathroom very modern however, the bedroom was something out of a 1970's show: depressing dark colors, yellowing wallpaper & old furniture (the chairs were plastic patio furniture) - we couldn't wait to leave the room.
It got worse - every time we left our room to go out, the housekeeping staff would come into our room, rearrange our bags, clothes, items on the desk and bathroom counters, remove any items from the bed - it was more than strange to say the least. This happened four times - it almost felt like we were being spied on. When I called the front desk to explain that we did not need housekeeping to "tidy-up" our room while we were out, the man at the desk claimed he did not speak English and could not help me. Funny, because the next evening when we spoke with him to arrange for a taxi, he spoke fluent English, but he was very cold to us. We have never had an experience like this. This is not the way we wanted to end our trip and I highly recommend another hotel if you plan to travel to Milan.
As a side comment, we stayed at the Hotel Torino in Parma, which was similar in description to the Star: room was dark & depressing, but location was ideal. However, the big difference was the staff who couldn't have been more friendly or helpful & the terrific continental breakfast. Because of this we were able to overlook the dismal room and walk away with a good experience.
Susanne Bartz <email>
Boston, MA USA 10/15/03
Beautiful Italy!!
My husband and I just came back from a two-week holiday in Italy. We love the country! Rick's book was invaluable. We are particularly impressed with 2 hotels:
Rome: Stayed in Hotel Nardizzi. Location was good; Samy was really helpful. He went all the way to help us find a room in another hotel when he couldn't accommodate us (our itinerary was affected by the country-wide power failure)
Florence: The room in Bellevue House was spacious. The bathroom was impressive. Antonio was very hospitable.
Rick, I'd like to suggest to have some Chinese eateries included in your book. We found that the Chinese food in Italy was cheap and delicious.
Sharon <email>
Singapore, SIN 10/14/03
Il Pirate--great pastries
My husband and I tried Il Pirate at Vernazza and enjoyed their pastries. I had read the reviews on Rick's website before leaving and knew they collected post cards and enjoyed seeing where everyone came from. Hats off to the Cinque Terre---lovely!!
Teresa & Rod <email>
Cottage Hills,, IL USA 10/14/03
Comment on Train Schedules
I read the comment about using the Deutsche Bahn web site for train schedules and wanted to recommend that agin. The site is www.bahn.de. You can click on International Guests to get English if you don't speak German. Why is it so fabulous? Because you can get train schedules for just about any EU to EU destination. Prices are only quoted for Germany itself. I have lived in Germany for five years and use it all the time for travel planning. Even once you are on the road you can find an Internet cafe and print out (or scribble down) some itinerary possiblities so you go to the train station knowing what you want to do.
Jamie Faulkner <email>
Bad Aibling, Germany 10/13/03
Getting to Montepulciano
Just returned from two weeks in Italy and as always used Rick's book as our primary guide. We stayed in Montepulciano as well as some other wonderful places. Just one comment: the 2003 edition describes taking the bus from the Montepulciano train station up the hill to Piazza San Agnese. Actually, there is no train station in Montepulciano. The nearest station is Chiusi and a bus runs from there. Avis also has car rentals there.
Gale Cornett <email>
Houston, TX USA 10/13/03
October Italy Trip
My husband and I just returned from a 2 week trip to Italy: Trento, Venice, Siena, Sorrento, Rome. Since I made extensive use of the postings here, I thought I’d give some back in return. Trento: A wonderful little town in the mountains, with a castle and beautiful church in the middle. Plenty of shopping and restaurants. Within easy reach of many gorgeous mountain ranges.
Venice: We stayed at Hotel Ovidius, near the Rialto. There is nothing special to recommend this hotel and I would stay somewhere else next time. We wanted a room overlooking the Grand Hotel, but it wasn’t worth the price. We had 2 dinners near the water and both were bland and forgettable. The Secret Itineraries tour at the Doge’s Palace is fun.
Siena: Stayed at Albergo Bernini. Good location, nice owners. We had excellent dinners at Gallo Nero and Il Verrochio. A carafe of wine sitting in a café on Il Campo isn’t too expensive and is a nice way to relax. Walkabout Pub near the university is an Australian pub with good beer.
Sorrento: Stayed at Settimo Cielo. Rick should really put this place in his book – it’s a great budget alternative. Average room with a nice view, pretty hotel, friendly staff. It’s a 10 minute walk into town proper, but doable. Walk off the main streets for the charm. We had a fantastic dinner at L’Antica Trattoria. This was our big splurge for the trip. The food was wonderful and the ambience was very romantic. I heard people say that they had been there 2 or 3 times that week already. We had no problems riding the Circumvesuviana to and from Naples and Pompeii. David Gelato was great.
Rome: We stayed at Hotel Aberdeen. The best hotel of the trip. Walking distance from the train station and the room was very nice with a comfortable bed. The woman at the desk during the day was extremely knowledgeable and very helpful and friendly. We had dinner at Flann O’Brien Irish Pub and had the best pizza of the trip. We also had a good meal at Annicinquanta on Via Flavia. Gelateria della Palma had the best gelato of the trip.
Some tips we discovered from our recent trip to Italy:
1) It is very difficult to use traveler’s checks, even those in Euros. Many restaurants and shops would not take them. We finally ended up cashing them at a currency exchange.
2) Always have some change with you if you plan to eat outside. Inevitably there will be a musician or two.
3) Use the Deutsche Bahn train schedules, print out a few options and bring them with. That saves time trying to figure out how to get to your next destination if you miss the train.
4) Check to make sure the sight you wish to visit will be open on the day you wish to visit it. By chance, we discovered in time that Pompeii would be closed on the one day we had set aside to visit.
5) If you want to get a dinner table easily, go out at 7:30 pm. Places get crowded by 8:30 no matter which city it is.
6) Waterproof your backpack before you go, as well as your shoes.
7) If you are visiting people, try to schedule it for after you get over jet lag. That way you can spend quality time with them.
Sharon <email>
Chicago, IL USA 10/12/03
Italy
I have just returned from Florence and Venice using RS city books. It was incredible! I stayed in hostels every night, and although it usually meant having to take a 20 min bus ride to the city centre, it was worth it. The HI hostel in Florence, the Villa Camerata, was beautiful beyond words. Cheap too. 15.50 Euros incl breakfast. Great ambiance and a pretty good chef for evening meals. One word of advice if travelling to the Hostel in Siena...If you arrive by train, take the #10 bus across the parking lot, past all the construction. The bus #10 that arrives directly in front of the station does NOT take you to the hostel. As I found out on a very long, hot Sunday.
Megan <email>
Vancouver, BC Can 10/12/03
Rome & Tustcanny feedback
We just got back from 12 days in Tuscany and Rome. Here's what we thought.
Rome: Hotel Aberdeen was great. Quiet, well appointed very nice staff and well priced at 139E. We didn't have our best food in Rome but 59 Guiseppe near Piazze de Poppolo was excellent Bolognese food.
Assisi: Annalisa Martini provided a nice inexpensive lodging and also recommended our best food in Assisi. The restaurant right next to her place was our best meal there. Although Assisi was nice, it was VERY touristy. I lost count of shops selling religious souvenirs. One day here is plenty. We were treated to a big festival commemorating St. Francis. Parking was a trick here at first but this was our first experience driving into a town.
Cortona: We had a great stay in the San Luca hotel. It was 100 euros for a room with a gorgeous view. The town was nice but WAY too much like Assisi. You could see it in even less time. More like a town to visit on your way somewhere like Siena. A highlight of the area for food freaks is Il Falconiere Restaurant. Excellent food which would cost much more in the US and has no smoking. I think the prix fix is 65E.
Siena: Much more going on here. The buildings alone were gorgeous. We stayed at the Piccolo Hotel Etruria. It's just like Rick said, clean, updated, well located and small. I'd skip the breakfast. We had hotdog buns and jam. I'm not making that up. You want to eat breakfast elsewhere and a warning, if you stay in Siena on Saturday night, it will be very noisy. It's just a short block from the Piazza del Campo and we had drunk students at one point 5 feet from our window. We did sleep eventually but if you're noise sensitive, I'd try to find something a few blocks further off. Parking was a bit of a trick here too till we figured out that the highways took you eventually to a loop around town where you can find many "P" areas. Any "P" near the city wall is not going to be far from the main hotels.
Food - Enoteca I Terzi came recommended from a friend in the wine business, it was great. Very good food with even better wine. A huge list which was fairly priced. In most restaurants we'd been to previously the wine list went like (Chianti, Montepulciano, Barolo) etc etc with no wine makers or vintages. Not so in Tuscany. You get the real thing there. I Terzi has a real Sommelier who made great recommendations for us that were not expensive.
Chianti: This area proved to be a highlight of the trip. Just driving through the area from Bernardenga to Greve was just gorgeous. A welcome change from all the touristy hill towns we'd seen before. If you go to Italy, keep your diet of these towns to a minimum. Once you've seen one or two, you won't want to see lots more. Restaurant Botega Trenta (30) in Via Sesta (VERY small town north of Bernardenga) was one of the best I've been to anywhere. Wine, food (also 60E prix fix). It was our most memorable evening. Closed Tues/Wed I think.
Montalcino: Someone on this site recommended Palazzina Cesare. It was one of the best stays of the trip. Breakfast included wonderful omlettes which after our fill of Italian breakfasts was soooooo nice. It was 70E and yes, the rooms are as nice as they look on the site. Just great all the way around. Roberto, the owner, speaks perfect English (must have been American or grew up here) and had great advice. I didn't think Montalcino would be anything special but I loved it. The area south of town is gorgeous and of course the wines and wineries are second to none. http://www.montalcinoitaly.com/8cesira.htm. This is a place I'd definitely go back to.
Porto San Stephano: We decided this would be our stop on the way to the airport. We stayed at the four star Torre di Cala Piccola. Great view but not much else. Rude manager and poor restaurant with very high prices. The town itself was something I'd skip.
Ben Humphrey <email>
Seattle, WA USA 10/11/03
recent trip
Just returned from three great weeks guided entirely by Rick's book. Saw many copies The book being used. While doing the night time walk in Roma and looking around a piazza figuring out where to go next we looked up and saw another couple holding their book up doing the same thing.
This was our second trip the last being five years ago. All B&Bs were great but a few stand out, Oceania in Rome and La Tavolozza in Positano. Celeste and daughter Francesca are a joy and so helpful. The view from the room is like a postcard and came with a balcony. Albergo Firenze a super location. They need a website.
We found Cinque Terre so built up since our last trip, we're glad we saw it before it became so commercial. Also were sad to see the increase in numbers of street pedders selling wares on the ground in the most famous spots. There are simply too many of them.
We would like Rick to expand recomendations for places to stay out in countryside of Tuscany, particularly Chianti area, Greive, Castelina, and Radda. Beauty in that area is breath taking. We saw many agritourismo places but without Rick's input it would be a gamble. We need both agritourismo and B&Bs.
carol pipitone <email>
rochester, ny USA 10/11/03
Cycling/Riomaggiore Roberto Fazioli
1. I would like more info on cycling in the guides;( I realize rick doesn't do the bike thing , so understand this limitation) it was hard to find info on renting a bicycle in Italy , but we did have great bikes from Cicloposse in Pienza. Also there is a shop in Poggibonsi that rents bikes, look left from exiting the rail stazione. There's a big sign over the door "ciclosport." We fond the Affite Camere (private rooms) to be perfectly suited to independent riders. People are willing to store bags for up to 4 or 5 days while we rode.
2. I booked two hotels in Riomaggiore (by mistake!) in early Aug (our trip was in late Sept) and Roberto Fazioli refused to give me credit and also immediately charged the 2 nights to my card, saying he was truly sorry, but he already put it thru. Our room was small with balcony , but OK. The other was Affitcamere "Edi" who had no problem cancelling the request. They also provided me with info on the dive shop with phone # , even tho I was not staying with them. While in Riomaggiore , we stopped in there. They are very helpful and I recommend a stay with them anytime.
Karen Hopkins <email>
Nevada City, CA USA 10/10/03
Albergo Olivedo
I just read a complaint about Laura at the Oliveda in Varenna on Lake Como. After our wonderful experience with her and her lovely little hotel in March 2003 (our favorite place in our two week trip,) I can only assume you caught Laura on a bad day. She was wonderful with us, greeted us by name each time we came in, spoke to other guests in their own languages--I think I heard her speak 5 languages. A party of fellow American guests was there for their seventh year in a row. She was wonderfully responsive before our trip in several e-mails and even took the time to respond to a couple of emails after our return home. I kind of hate to increase her popularity--I want to go back and be able to afford it!--but I had to speak up.
Debbie <email>
Gilmanton, NH USA 10/08/03
Milan Hotel
We spent our last two nights of a 3 week trip at the Hotel Star in Milano...http://www.hotelstar.it/ We wanted a hotel centrally located in Milan, and not too expensive. Hotel Star, about 3 blocks from the Duomo, air conditioning that you control, tv, breakfast, soundproof windows with shutters that almost completely blocked any traffic noise, located on a small alley, and priced at 150-160E was a good find. Although the hotel looks as if it was decorated in the 70's, it had a very nice, new bathroom with a whirlpool tub. Very helpful staff. This hotel is a little more expensive than some of Rick's other recommendations in Milan, but some of his other hotels don't always get good comments on this board.
susanna <email>
san francisco, ca USA 10/05/03
Just Returned!
First, We LOVE Italy! We have been three times since 1999 and Rick's suggestions have made each visit memorable. Our current comments...
Sorrento - As in 1999 the food at Pizzaria Giardinello was amazing! Best time to go is during lunch, when Sorrento closes up for siesta. Then visit Davide Gelato...(the BEST selection anywhere) and enjoy till the shops re-open.
Roma - The best dinner recommendations we had! Since we stayed near the Spanish Steps we visited both Ristorante Il Gabriello and Ristorante alla Rampa. While Gabriello was trendy, great service and good food...Nothing can beat the HUGE antipasti spread or the desserts at alla Rampa...Tiramisu & Semifreddo were the best in Italy.
Florence - Absolutely do not miss Gelateria Carrozze - unbelieveable flavors! Siena - The only ETBD disappointment ever was Hosaria Molino del Grillo - maybe it was because we arrived right before closing time, but the service and the food were lacking...
Venice - We enjoyed our final night dinner at Restaurant al Vagon..great setting and wonderfully fresh seafood stew...ummm.
Milano - With an early flight, we opted to stay at Hotel Cervo for the convenience and were so happy we did! It completely served it's purpose being close to the airport. Not to mention the staff! We left a wallet in the airport shuttle and didn't realize until we got to Paris. Upon returning home, we found that the Hotel Cervo had contacted our work (after finding our business card)and called to advise them they had found our wallet. We received it a few days later..money, credit cards and all directly to our home!
We thought Italy was cleaner than in the past and felt safe at all times...even when my mother-in-law dropped her purse on the vaporetto in Venice, someone helped her off the boat returned her purse and went on their way. Like I said...we LOVE Italy!
D&A
Napa Valley, CA USA 10/04/03
Cinque Terre accommodation
If staying in Cinque Terre you must check out www.cinqueterreproperties.com! They rent apartments with a 2-night minimum stay to vacationers for less than a hotel room. They offer many services with their apartments and have over 15 to choose from, all of which have full kitchens, bathroom, living rooms, dining rooms, some with gardens, etc. It's really a bargain for couples and families and they even pick you up and bring you to the apartment. I highly recommend Cinque Terre Properties!
Patrick Bernstein
Santa Monica, CA USA 10/04/03
Back from Italy
My husband and I just returned from a three-week trip throughout Italy. Thanks to Rick for all the great advice we got from his books. We avoided many long lines and saved precious time thanks to his tips. We also enjoyed eating some of the best gelato at places he recommends. We had wonderful experiences all over Italy, and never felt in danger or had anything stolen. It may have helped that there were always two of us together and most of the time four of us. We kept our bags locked up while in the train stations and used the money belt all the time and had no problems.
My only suggestion for Rick is to expand his section on Tuscany. Siena and Florence are wonderful, but there is so much more to be discovered in Tuscany. Our time in Greve in Chianti was my favorite part of our trip. The countryside was so beautiful and the people so friendly and helpful. I highly recommend exploring the smaller towns and not just hitting the big cities.
Cinque Terre had way more tourist than I expected. We saw many people with Rick's book wandering around. It was beautiful, but getting too touristy for such a small place. We stayed in Vernazza at the L'Eremo Sul Mare, which was a wonderful bed and breakfast. Beware though, it is quite a hike up from the train station toward Corniglia and we were not expecting it to be so difficult to get to. The staff was wonderful, and it wasn't as bad when we didn't have our packs on our backs.
One place that Rick doesn't recommend is Naples, but we had a great time there. The food (and especially the pizza) was excellent; I could eat the mozzarella di buffalo all day. Yes, the town is dirty (so was Rome), but the people were welcoming and the city has many lovely places.
The Amalfi Coast was stunningly beautiful and had fewer tourists than we expected. The Hotel Parsifal in Ravello was definitely one I highly recommend. The staff was fantastic and the views were breathtaking. It was a great place to wrap up our time in Italy.
Kelly
Bothell, WA USA 10/03/03
Spoletto
Spoletto is a wonderful hill town near Assisi and much less touristy. We found a wonderful hotel called Hotel San Lucia that was a restful haven in the middle of a jam packed 2-week tour. The hotel is within the walled city and has renovated rooms, a beautiful courtyard to just "be" and very helpful staff who speak English. They recommended our new favorite restaurant--Torvino where the owner and his wife the cook talk to you like old friends!
Cindy Thomas <email>
Madison, WI USA 10/02/03
Amalfi: Sentierro degli Dei (Path of the gods)
The Sentierro degli Dei is probably the best known walk on the Amalfi coast. One way to do it is to take a nominally 5.5 hr "medium difficulty" hike from Positano to Praiano described in the Lonesome Planet guide to hiking in Italy. That hike includes the Sentierro degli Dei and more. It is the "classic walk" of the Sorrento peninsula, "fine paths clinging to near vertical mountainsides with wide panoramic views and beautiful stands of Italian cypresses." Be forewarned that some of the trail markings are obscure, and there are places to go astray. Ultimately we took several hours more than expected, and could not find the final descending trail segment until some hunters happened by and showed us the way. Start early, and enjoy this glorious landscape. I would not recommend hiking in the reverse direction: the ascending steps go on for too long. Definitely have lunch in Nocelle at the Trattoria Santa Croce. (This hike is not for hot weather).
Gary Chirlin <email>
Derwood, MD USA 10/02/03
Exquisite Bagnoreggio accomodation
Arriving in Bagnoreggio on the 18:30 bus (which does exist!) from Orvieto, we happened upon the most delightful and luxurious of all our accomodations in Italy. Romantica Pucci contains large, artfully and elaborately decorated rooms, each unique (ours with canopy bed). The proprietress, Pucci, daughter of a diplomat, has lived in many lands, knows frightfully many languages including English, and treats her guests like royalty. The included breakfast was the finest of all our primacolazione in Italy. Total price: 65 euro per night. (Dogs are welcome, by the way). e-mail: lacasadipucci@libero.it web: www.hotelromanticapucci.it phone: 0761-792121
Gary Chirlin <email>
Derwood, MD USA 10/02/03
Cinque Terre trail closure
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned that a segment of the Cinque Terre trail currently is closed for maintenance. Throughout our visit there from 9/24 through 9/28/03, the link between Corniglia and Vernazza was closed "until further notice." There was confusion concerning whether the closure applied to upper trails as well as the more popular lower trail #2. The park information desk at Riomaggiore said that the high trails were open. Hiking from Corniglia, we were not stopped from taking a high route on trails 7a and 7 (no on-trail ticket booth exists on 7a in Corniglia). However, upon arrival at the on-trail ticket booth in Vernazza we were told that the high trails also were closed. No one was being allowed to leave Vernazza toward Corniglia regardless of trail. The attendant said that "mines" were being used in the repairs.
Gary Chirlin <email>
Derwood, MD USA 10/02/03
The Last Supper
I have to respectfully disagree with Michael about the "Last Supper". I'm not a religious man, and yet was very moved by the painting (and to think it was in a dining hall). It was wonderful that they only allowed 15 to 20 people in at a time. It was night and day from the crowds in the Sistine Chapel, where the room was completely full.
Gregg Miles <email>
Jacksonville, Fl USA 10/02/03
Sorrento
For a town that's as geared toward tourists as this one, watch out for the siesta in the early afternoon. Almost EVERYTHING closes from about 1:30 until about 4:00 or 4:30, making it impossible to buy things such as a bathing suit, sunblock, towels, etc.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Naples
We found out why nobody stays in Naples – what a pit! Trash and dog crap everywhere. We stayed at Hotel Ginevra. This was the only place we stayed that insisted upon holding one of our passports hostage until we paid for our stay. There was no problem, however, in getting the RS discount with the book and paying in cash.
The Archaeological Museum was amazing, but no air conditioning. The humidity must have been 90% and the temperature kept increasing due to the mass of tour groups, making it very difficult to enjoy the museum.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Siena comments
CASA LAURA – Should be called “Casa Loud”. This may have been the noisiest place we stayed in all Italy. The rooms are on the 2nd floor of a corner building overlooking a busy intersection. This means cars, pedestrians and those ****ing Vespas all day and night. Also, the shower in the bathroom is just a showerhead in the corner of the room with a drain in the center of the room. What are you supposed to do with all the water that ends up getting sprayed all over everything? There is one room (#4) that MIGHT be quiet, as it appears to be on neither one of the outside walls. The breakfast (4 Euro extra, I think) is nothing to write home about. Although Laura is a very sweet woman, I can’t help but think that there is a more deserving hotel/B&B that should be listed in its place in the RS books.
RESTAURANTS: Taverna Di San Giuseppe – We went to this restaurant as recommended by Fodor’s – quite good, if a little pricey. Ciao Self-Service Restaurant, off the campo – not very good. Spizzico fast food place in front of Ciao – truly terrible food. The “salad” was absolutely inedible because the salad dressing tasted like some form of petrochemical waste. Il Verrochio – as recommended in RS book. It was just okay.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Cinque Terre - Vernazza
Be careful getting into the water in Vernazza– the bottom concrete steps are unbelievably slick.
FRANCA MARIA APARTMENTS – We stayed in Apartment 4, a well laid out little place with its own bath. What they don’t tell you is that it’s very loud due to the pedestrians walking and talking right outside your window at all hours of the night. And the acoustics of the room make it sound as if the passersby are right in the room with you. Also, we had occasional sewer odor drifting into our room.
HIKE TO MONTEROSSO – Well worth it, but it is long and fairly difficult. Some dangerous stretches if you’re not careful.
BREAKFAST SPOT – Go to the last bar on the left towards the breakwater to get an oustanding breakfast that you can eat at the tables on the breakwater. Very friendly owner/operator.
LOCAL TRAINS – It’s anybody’s guess when the local trains will come by. The 8:50 train never showed up and the 9:07 didn’t arrive until 9:30. Then we sat for 15 minutes at the very next stop (Manarola). Keep this in mind if you’re making any connections after leaving Cinque Terre.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Trains
Eurostar trains are the nicest but their bathrooms are hit-and-miss: sometimes very nice, sometimes a true pit, with wet floors and no toilet paper. Try not to think about where the waste goes and why it is forbidden to use the restrooms while at the station.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Milan
The Last Supper was a definite disappointment – the “restoration” has left only a few paint flecks on the wall. If you get the audioguide, be sure to understand the instructions on how to make it play in English and start playing it well BEFORE you enter the room with the painting. The long intro is all about the church’s architect (Bramante) and Milanese history.
We stayed at Hotel Charly near the train station. The room was small but very efficiently laid out – like a room on an ocean liner. AC was an extra E10 a day.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Varenna - Lake Como area
Small and very charming and very Italian town near the Alps. (Switzerland is just over one of the mountains, but don’t look for any Swiss chalets here.) We stayed at the Albergo Beretta.
Pros:
1. Tosca who owns the place is a blast – a real Italian character. The location is very convenient to the train station.
2. Their full breakfast is very good (but not included in the daily rate). (Capuccino is just called “capooch” here – go figure.)
3. They kept and heated up for us the next day a pizza that I couldn’t finish at a local restaurant, due to a fierce headache probably from jet lag.
Cons:
1. Although the people who run this place (Tosca and her children) are friendly enough, we had the sinking suspicion that we were being taken. First, they did not have a room with balcony and shared bath available for us as confirmed via email (I had the email with me). Basically they said that because I had made my reservation so far in advance they gave our room to someone with more recent reservations. They said that they did have a room with balcony but it had its own bath and would cost E73 rather than E55. We decided to go ahead and switch. Then, a couple of days later when it was time to pay we were told that their credit card swiper was not working so we would have to pay cash.
2. Despite Rick’s listing of Tosca’s daughters as SE, they don’t really speak English well at all.
3. This location can be NOISY. It’s at a major (for Varenna) intersection. In the early morning (around 6:00) apparently the fishermen in town stop by here on the way to their boats. And they love to discuss (loudly) the news of the day.
4. The shower in the room was VERY small, even by Italian standards. Any “person of size” would have had an extremely difficul time. Also, their hot water heater must be about 3 km away, considering how long it took for the hot water to get hot. Also, the towels you get are more like large thin linen napkins. We got towels like this at a couple of other places we stayed. I don’t understand the appeal. Also, they weren’t changed daily.
Regarding the travel agency next door to the Beretta: Rick’s book needs to be clarified to state that they do NOT accept CC for train tickets. We were following Rick’s advice to get all our tickets here and having to pay all that cash (about E500 made it a little difficult. Luana was VERY helpful and her English is extremely good but they had NO current information on the various train passes available (Flexipass, etc.). I was really surprised. Also, double check each ticket carefully when buying. There were two of us traveling together and one of the tickets she sold us turned out to be for one person only. Fortunately I noticed before we got on the train so I had time to buy another single ticket.
RISTORANTE MONTECODENO: We tried the “Rick Steves Menu” and did NOT care for it. You have to be a REAL seafood fan to want to eat the 57 varieties (give or take) of fish you will get. Also, the restaurant itself had virtually no ambience.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
General comments
1. I’m SOOO glad that I took two Italian classes through the local community college before we went to Italy. It came in much more handy than I expected, in some cases quite critically. Also, we discovered that the most difficult part of speaking Italian isn’t asking or answering a question – it’s understanding the answer to a question you’ve asked.
2. Italian WC’s – You will quickly learn to avoid using the WC's at the smaller train stations – They tend to be “Turkish toilets” which are basically just a toilet seat bolted right onto the floor over a hole. Museum and restaurant toilets tend to be much nicer.
3. It costs 0.77 Euro to send a priority postcard to the US – 0.67 for non-priority. There is a lower rate to send postcards to EU countries. Rick should add this info to all Italy books.
4. Take a washcloth with you if you want one. No place we stayed offered one.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Hotels in Italy - reviews
My wife and I went to Venice, Florence, Cinque Terre, Siena, and Rome on our honeymoon in Sept 2003. Here are the hotels where we stayed and what we thought:
Venice: Ca' Morosini. We ended up at this place by accident, becuase our room in Locanda Art Deco was damaged. They put us up in this one for the same rate as Art Deco (€130). I think the bill in the room said it was supposed to be €200 a night. The housekeeper never spoke any english, and was very upset when we spoke english to her. However, the room was beautiful, bathroom was big and had new fixtures, and we had an awesome view of Campo Santo Stefano from our room. This is located near the Accademia bridge. Highly recommended, but not sure what you'd pay for full price. It is run by Hotel Locanda Fiorita. Their website is: http://www.locandafiorita.com/
Florence: Hotel Bretagna. You get what you pay for. This was a bargain hotel, with no real frills. The room was OK, bed was not real comfortable. The bathrooms were quite small with the small shower that just has a curtain so water can spill all over the bathroom floor. Didn’t seem overly clean either. Once thing I can say is that the staff were incredible. Antonio spoke very good English and even gave us advice about the other cities we were going to travel. I would not stay there again. It’s a one star hotel.
Siena: Hotel Duomo. Very nice hotel. More like what we’re used to in North America. The room was nice and big. So was the bathroom. Staff were nice and helpful. I would recommend this hotel. However, it is not cheap! €130 per night! That’s expensive for Siena.
Rome: Hotel Giardino. I can’t say enough good about this place. The room was great. Big bed, remote controlled air conditioning. Good size bathroom with new fixtures. We did have a little treat as well – since it was our honeymoon, they gave us the only room in the hotel with a private patio deck. It was beautiful! The staff were great as well – especially Sergio! He’s a great guy – funny too! It rained while we were in Rome and they even had (brand new) umbrellas for us to take for the day. I would love to stay there again!
Carl <email>
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada 10/02/03
Sorrento & Amalfi Coast
Our Naples to Sorrento trip was almost ruined when two "porter" tried to help us with our luggage at the Naples Central Train. Fortunately I had read RS's advice and knew there are no porters at the Naples Train Station. The trip improved greatly when we got to our hotel in Sorrento:
La Tonarella has the best sea side views I've ever seen. Most of the post cards we found of Sorrento were photos taken from the hotel's terraces. It was however pretty dusty, needed a fresh coat of paint and a few more smiles. The staff is very aloof. If you reserve a sea view terrace you won't care about the interior's defiencies.
A second saving grace was our Monnetti Taxi Tour. Carmello (the father) is a wonderfully friendly man in love with life...and Sophia Loren. His "cousin" Luigi was terrific. He was our savior when he rescued us from the Italian Blackout: driving us in a rain storm for 2 hours to the Naples Airport. He called ahead to asure that our flight had not been cancelled and stayed with us untill he was sure we could catch a departing flight.
Lastly, I'd like to tip my hat to the great cult of Rick Steve's followers. Everywhere we went we'd see "that RS book." It was a superb way to meet fellow travellers. We spent our last night in Sorrento on our terrace overlooking the Naples Bay with a picnic dinner, a bottle of wine,and a wonderful family we met via "That Book."
Heather Scullin <email>
Westlake, OH USA 10/01/03
Three weeks in Italy
Just returned from three weeks in Italy. Visited Sorrento, Rome, Venice, Florence, Vernazza and Central Tuscany before turning the lights out and returning to the US. We stayed at some so-so hotels and some absolutely fantastic places. Far too much to write in a message but we'd be happy to provide recommendations and ideas for anyone planning a visit to Italy.
James Baudhuin <email>
Milwaukee, WI USA 10/01/03
HELP on Italy point-to-point trains
Loooking for advise please... Do I need to purchase point-to-point tickets with reservations from Rome to Florence ahead of time via internet for travel in late Oct.2003, or can I feel assured and wait without any problems and purchase tickets at train station? First time train traveler but don't want to spend valuable time sitting in train station. What do you suggest? If purchased ahead of time, where should I make this transaction? Thank you in advance for any help you can share with me! Matt E-mail me at i00mbw@fds.com
matt <email>
Palm Beach, FL USA 09/29/03
Hotel Gritti, Milano
We followed rick's advice in Milano and the Hotel Gritti was superb! Friendly at the check in desk, excellent, central location, and pretty easy to get to; Trattoria Bruno was a good suggestion too, the dinner was wonderful!
anthony caliendo
denver, co USA 09/27/03
Il Nido Hotel in Sorrento
We spent three weeks in Italy including a stop in Sorrento. The hospitality at the Il Nido Hotel in Sorrento was fantastic. We arrived late after a harrowing experience that involved getting stuck at the train station in Barro(near Naples) at night - not a good situation. After a $150 taxi ride (with lots of haggling) we arrived at the hotel after 1 am. The manager came out and negotiated with the driver. He then arranged for a late night snack (since we missed dinner). The accomodations were nice and clean and at a reasonable midrange price. The hotel sits high above the town of Sorrento with wonderful views. There is a nice restaurant with delicious local dishes and great views from the terrace. The hotel provides transporation to town on a regular schedule. From the town you can catch buses, trains or boats to wherever you want to go. We had considered staying on the Amalfi Coast but found the Il Nido's location was great for day trips to all the various sights: Pompeii, Amalfi Town, and the islands of Capri and Ischia. We extended our stay an extra night because we enjoyed the area and hotel and staff so much. There is also free internet service, small swimming pool, and a bar.
John
Longmont, CO USA 09/26/03
Rome to Sorrento
Rick should add to his book an alternative source for travel. There is a bus called the Marozzi bus that leaves Rome Tibertina Station and goes to Sorrento Piazza Tasso. Naturally there is a Return bus from Sorrento. We used it last year and plan to use in again this year. It takes 4 hours, but is less than $20, is cheaper and there is no changing trains or stations like taking the trains. We had a good experience taking this bus.
Bruce <email>
USA 09/25/03
Fishnet Internet Cafe in Monterosso al Mare
Just a heads up that The Fishnet Internet Cafe in Monterosso Al Mare will be closing as of October 1st. You can check Kate's website at http://www.fishnet.it for more information.
Tony Faville <email>
Beaverton, OR USA 09/23/03
Italy -- It's All About Food!
P.S. Santa Croce Church -- last resting place of Michelangelo and others is now charging $3 Euros at entrance. That was new for me. Also, the wedding I attended took place at Busa-alla Torre, a FABULOUS restaurant on Murano. It's under the small bell tower at Piazza Santo Stefano. We ate from 12 noon until 5:30 pm with at least nine courses. The food was magnificent. The owner is a big bear of a fellow, very Hemingwayesque, and a kick. I have no idea what the food costs, but it would be worth it no matter what! All seafood for us -- a clam rissotto that was sinful, and so much more. Just had to add that!
Zee <email>
Mendon, VT USA 09/16/03
Just Back from Rome, Florence, & Venice
Just returned (9/14) from "whirlwind" tour -- Rome, Florence, Venice. My sixth trip, my husband's first. I have followed Rick's book every time and have had Many Happy Returns.
In Rome, stayed at "58 Via Cavour" not in your book, a very good B&B, close to Termini, absolutely quiet, great air cond, and terrific bathrooms.
St. Peter in Chains closes for lunch (who knew? I musta missed that one. Yes, go to Palatine Hill for tickets to Coluseum (long lines!).
Had a small problem at Ostaria da Mario over by the Pantheon -- added food items to the bill ($10E) which we did not have. We questioned this and they rewrote the bill, leaving on $5E for water we did not have (tavola was fine with us). My husband had to go into the kitchen and discuss with Mama. Food okay, service not too friendly.
In Florence stayed at Cimatori B&B (on way to Dante's house, next door to AmEx) -- if it's not in the book, it should be --- bravo Dominic! Lovely rooms (only 6) and wonderful breakfast with plenty of Europeans to discuss all sorts of topics. Right in the heart of Florence!
The little restuarant across from AmEx is delightful and the food is great -- good prices, we ate twice.
Recommend early rez for Uffizi and Accademia. Scaffolding already up around David -- the much-debated cleaning to take place soon but it doesn't look like they will cover him all up which is good news for most tourists. Just no good for photographers. I got "slapped" for taking pictures WITHOUT FLASH in the Uffizi -- so the book is now wrong, no pics.
In Venice stay at the Hotel Campiello -- bravo Rick, that's a GREAT little hotel with lovely help and good prices at peak season. The concierge recommended a local restaurant Quarto Feri -- we were the only Americans and the dinner was wonderful. No English on the menu but the lovely owner translated and brought us a sea bass special. Yes, you need reservations -- we had ours for 8 and the place was full by 8:30pm. Also, a little trattoria down the alley from the Devil's Pub was great -- an entire wedding party of 10 and we ate a lot but split the bill by 9 of us (not the bride) and only had to pay $11Eur each. Lots of bar trade at the front. Very local.
DO go to Murano!!! Wonderful little shops and I found great bargains at #100 on the main street (down from the Colonna vap stop). Just $10 E for a beautiful neclace; they will make earrings to match for $5. I dragged the wedding party over and each woman purchased 8 necklaces -- quite the deal!!
I have no idea why they want you at the airport 3 hours early when they don't even open the flight desks until 2 hours before the flight. But, good food in the Venice airport -- freshly made pizza (they throw it right in front of you) and pannini for $2.70Eur. How do they do that? Nice shops in the Venice airport -- but English novels are $11.50 Euros. (Okay, I was looking at an 8 hr flight home with nothing to do and a bad movie). We had the best time. Thank you, Rick for the books -- I knew some of my friends from the Venice wedding were staying in Italy and I tried to give it away -- but they all had their own copies!
Zee <email>
Mendon, VT USA 09/16/03
Credit card fraud via email
I had a fraudulent experience recently (August 2003) making reservations through email for a hotel in Rome and wanted to advise travelers of my experience. I made the reservations and then sent my credit card number via email to the hotel and about 2 weeks later someone in the United States ahd used my credit card number on line to charge merchandise. I don't think it had anything to do with the hotel in Rome. I have Zone Alarm and Norton Anti-Virus on my computer but I think someone hacked into my computer and got the number and used it but luckily the credit card company called me and informed me of the charges before it was too late. I know that when you charge merchandise on line, it's usually a secure line but when you send your credit card number by email, it is not. So be careful and try faxing or call the hotel direct, if possible. I think that would be a safer choice. Have a fun & safe trip!
Nancy froelich <email>
Buellton, CA USA 09/11/03
Thanks for Removing Castiglione
After reading the 8/19/03 USA entry, I feel the need to discourage Rick from thinking about adding back Mike Castiglione into the section on Vernazza. I was there this Spring and had an awful experience with him. Not only did he give away the room we reserved (the one with the view) even after we called him early that morning to confirm; he gave us a different room without a view for more money. We saw him later that day giving away the room he promised us to another couple. It appears he's a savvy businessman, but not trustworthy.
Ann
Washington , DC USA 09/10/03
Needs work
Needs better maps and less costly accomodation options. I was mortified at the prices listed in your book on Italy in comparison to what I found myself.
Nathaneal Baker <email>
Colorado Springs, co USA 09/08/03
Italy in August
I'm still a big fun of "Eyewitness Guides", but telling the truth, I will be definitely carrying two books from now on: "EG" + "RS". Rick made an absolutely terrific source for a tourist! We recently returned from Venice-Florence-Rome tour, and here are my $.02:
Museum prices have inflated ~10-20% from 2003 Rick's book. If you have a reservation, look around the ticket office before announcing it. If there is no crowd, why pay the extra fee?
Another way to skip the line in St. Marco Basilica in Venice: come with backpack (prohibited item), ask where the storage room is (free; 50 yards away), leave your backpack and obtain the badge. This badge will allow you to go in group/reservation entry.
There are no more one-way or family discounts on Venice's vaporetti. The cheapest ticket now is 5 euros for 90 minutes on the Grand Canal. At least some traghettos cost less: 50 c vs. 75c listed in the book.
Hotel Mercurio in Venice is great (no, not in a Rick's book yet).
Be on "Thief Alert" not after leaving the airport upon your arrival, but about 30 minutes before LANDING (trust me!)
Boris V. <email>
Dover, NH USA 09/08/03
Italy 2003
Rick's Italy guidebook was one of the best I've used. To get the sole negative out of the way, I don't understand how he could recommend the Hotel Magic in Rome. A 3rd floor walkup; very cold and rude staff (I had to awaken them at midnite when my key broke in the lock and I couldn't get in and was met with their anger); room very hot; staff kept pestering for payment in cash after having emailed reservation acceptance confirming they'd accept credit cards; a very mediocre breakfast not served daily until 8:30.
I checked out of the Hotel Magic after a sleepless second night and checked into the Hotel Villa del Rose, two blocks away from the Termini. Same room price as the Magic, but much bigger room, great air conditioning, very helpful staff (24 hour desk) and a great breakfast (all you can eat croissants, pastries, meats, cheeses, fruit, pot of coffee) that starts at 7:00 am and lasts until 10 am! Villa delle Rose a real contrast to the Hotel Magic.
The only threats we encountered near Termini in Rome were the metro (very hot and crowded - a bonanza for pickpockets and trains ran about every eight minutes) and the money change office at the Termini (charged 16% "Commission" with bad exchange rates).
Rick was absolutely right on the Trastevere neighborhood and the area around the Spanish Steps, both of which we greatly enjoyed. The Restaurant Sabbatini in Trastevere is great with a wonderful outdoor seating opposite the cathedral.
Nero's Golden House interesting as was the Mamertine Prison (St. Peter was held here) and the Church of St. Peter in Chains.
In Florence, found his recommendation for climbing the tower steps (next to Duomo) far better than climbing the dome itself (far less crowded). Florence great as a city but the termini seemed much more full of layabouts looking for easy pickings.
We greatly enjoyed Venice; beautiful weather, no lines for Doge's Palace, few for San Marco Cathedral. Rick's recommendation for the Locanda Gambero Hotel in Venice was right on: great people, nice room, fine bathroom, hotel just three minutes from San Marco, and very good food at the hotel cafe (Bistro) with a ten percent discount for hotel guests.
We made one big mistake on this trip: we had only one day in Naples and we spent it in Naples AND Pompeii, when we should have gone just to Naples and Sorrento. With limited time, we should have confined our time in Naples to the National Museum (one the finest museums I've been in -- all the best mosaics, statues, etc. are there from Pompeii and Herculaneum) and skipped the wasted travel time to, and visit to Pompeii (by contrast, an archeological site only worth seeing if you have the time; the town didn't seem to have a single taxi and the walking distance to both stations was fairly large). Instead, we should have gone to the National Museum, seen the Pompeii relics, then taken the hydrofoil to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast.
Robin Grover <email>
Alexandria, VA USA 09/07/03
Web reservations for Borghese Gallery
The website listed to reserve for the Borghese Gallery in Rome worked perfectly for us inn both August 2002 and August 2003(see negative comment below). First, you recieve an aknowledgement of your request. If the requested time is not available, you will not recieve a confirmation within the next 24 hours. That's your signal to request another time. Remember, the sooner the better.
Facteau Family
Atlanta, GA USA 09/05/03
Borghese Gallery reservations
We are leaving for Italy in 2 days and I will add info upon our return. I just wanted to mention that the website for making reservations for the Borghese Gallery in Rome (http://www.ticketeria.it/ticketeria/borghese-eng.asp) is totally useless. I requested reservations over a month early. I received one response that they had received my request, but this was not a confirmation. I never received a confirmation, despite 3 follow-up emails. However, I was able to make a telephone reservation easily 5 days in advance.
Mark W. Hill <email>
Atlantic Beach, FL USA 09/01/03
Cinque Terre Paradise
Everything one could imagine about this area is true. We will definitely return to finish the walks and see the views from above the towns. The walks are unbelievable: aqua blue ocean and the rock formations. We were there during the hottest days in 50 years - aprox 95 degrees. We walked the short path Via dell Amore from Riomaggiore to Manarola and thought we would walk the next path to Corniglia. The second walk took aprox 2 hours, it was so hot by then (midday). The views and the walk were worth it but I was glad to reach the end and found a hose of flowing cold water. I nearly drowned myself to cool off. I am 53; my wife is 46.
Hotel: Excellent choice from Rick's book was the Frankamaria Rooms in Vernazza We had #4 room, only 32 steps to the door, and about the lowest room in the town! 78 E /night 10% discount on cash. We paid cash and this enabled us to spend 1 more night!
Food everywhere is excellent, but can be expensive - spending 40E on lunch & 60E (or more) on dinner. We had the 7 day train card and went into La Spezia and found restraunts in side streets near the sea front. We had a large lunch/dinner for 2 persons that cost 20E for all courses, house wine and water.
We rented a car for the return journey, driving first to Parma. We found a village hotel & cheese factory - they are happy to show you around. It's amazing how many cheese they keep stored. They have a special machine that turns and stamps the cheese,it even wipes off the shelf where the cheese sits.
The drive thru the mountains is an experiance; we took the SS62 route rather than the Autostrada. We stayed in Milan Malpensa airport area. I took advice from this site & Rick's book. Hotel Cervo worked out well; it is in a small village near Terminal 1 and is about a 5 min drive. We still had the car and drove the area to see more sights. The hotel in the village has it's own restraunt. Also, go out the gate, turn left, and at the end of the street is the restraunt Samarcanda. They have all types of wine & beer and the food is excellent. There is a free salad bar in the evenings. There is also a small Pan bread shop - which is ideal for taking a loaf home with you. There are many more memories to savor of the Cinque Terre and Italy. Travel light!
Dave Thomas <email>
Parma Heights, OH USA 08/30/03
Hotel Loreley in Sorrento was quite a rip off. Stayed in August 2003 and received a room with view for 110 Euros a night with half pensione (Breakfast +1 meal) The room we stayed in was really hot and I had to ask the reluctant management for the one portable fan they had. Each day they looked unhappy that I had it. Further, the bathroom was something out of Alcatraz. The doors of the shower were coming off, there was no phone in the room, and meals are just OK at best. Also, management informed me that drinks were allowed with half pensione but then tried to charge me for them when I left. Overall, this place should be avoided, expecially for the price. Not worth it. Sorrento is beautiful, but not the Hotel Loreley.
M. N. <email>
Eastchester, NY USA 08/28/03
Monterosso al Mare, Italy
I just returned from 10 days in Monterosso al Mare (Cinque Terre), Italy. Lucky for me, I was able to find places to stay, although I had to change hotels a couple times because, as previous reviewers noted, August is Italy's busiest month for tourism, as it is the time when most Italians are on vacation. I want to make a few comments about the hotels in which I stayed.
1) HOTEL MORETTO - located in Old Town, close to the beach, but techincally in an alley, so does not have ocean views. I paid 85 Euro/night for a single and was not dissapointed. The room had A/C, a television with cable (so I could catch CNN World), a large bed (equivalent to a double), an excellent breakfast (included with room - "half board"), and a friendly, helpful staff. The only downside was that the maid service started very early (usually around 8 am- and for some reason, seemed to be camped outside my room-- #52, for future reference.) I saw this hotel listed as 2-star in various sites and books, but compared to others I tried, I would list it closer to 3-star.
2) HOTEL CINQUE TERRE- this one is located in the New Town, fairly close to the beach (about 50 meters up Via IV Novembre). My advice: AVOID IT AT ALL COSTS. It is advertised as a 4-star hotel, and cost me 110 Euro/night (30 more/night than Hotel Moteretto), but it was a disaster. I was stuck in a claustrophopic attic room (literally- a full grown man could not have stood up completely without hitting his head on the slanting ceiling) with no A/C during the hottest summer on European record in 200+ years. There was not even a window, only a small "moon roof" that opened about 4 inches and kept ventilation to a bare minimum. MISERABLE. The bed (a twin size was also quite uncomfortable), there was no tv, which was surprising given the price. There is a 1 am curfew at this hotel, so if you plan to go to a pub or sit on the beach and look at the stars, better be back in your room by 1 or you'll get locked out. Most egregious, however, was the fact that despite an assurance to the contrary, I was required to pay cash (as opposed to credit card) upon checkout. The one reedeming factor, the good breakfasts, did not make up for the shoddy service and the overall unpleasantness of the room. It was more like a hostel experience than the 4-star they make claim to. TRAVELERS BE WARY!
3) HOTEL VILLA STENO- in Old Town, at the top of the hill. I know Rick Steves has mentioned this hotel in various editions of his books, but I am compelled to add my praise. This place was excellent in every way. The room, for which I paid 85 Euro/night for a single, was clean, comfortable, and roomy by European standards. It had A/C, a tv with cable, a beautiful bathroom (that looked recently remodeled), and most happily, a private balcony from which I could see the sea. (Evidently all the rooms have them.) The staff also was wonderful-- not just helpful, but friendly. There is a convenient bar/mini restaurant in the hotel where you can order coffees, drinks, brushetta, etc. until 11 pm and take to your room. The hotel is charming and utterly comfortable in every way. I was sad to leave. I have seen Villa Steno labeled as 3-star in various web sites and books, but don't let that fool you, only the prices are less than 4-star. This place is a jewel, and I hope they keep it as is!
As for restaurants, my best experiences in Monterosso were at Ristorate Belvedere and Al Pozzo, both in Old Town. Both serve excellent Riso de Mare (basically an Italian paella) and have wonderful service and a great wine list.
Cynthia <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 08/27/03
If you want a small town feel on a "big world island" go and stay at Tirrenia Robers B+B on Capri. I stayed there with my sister in May and had 3 wonderful days. Unfortunately I left behind a favorite pair of comfy shoes. After calling Constantino he graciously suggested he would "send them along to Rome" with a family member or friend. Sure enough I got them back and discovered another area of Rome while meeting up with his friend. The world is truly small and people are wonderful. E-mail Tirrenia Roberts at bbtirreniaroberts@iol.it or check out the website at www.capri.net/home/en/card.php?type=hotel&cod=184
USA 08/19/03
This spring I stayed in a very nice room in Vernazza that was listed in Rick's 2001 Italy book but not in his later books. It's owned by Mike & Franca Castiglione, a very nice old couple who speak English well. Their one room is clean, roomy and even includes a kitchenette. Best of all Mike gave me a key to a private garden-patio a few steps away with the best view of the ocean outside Santorini- very romantic. I don't know why Rick took this listing out of his books; it seems unfair to his readers to withhold information on a gem like this. The Castigliones don't have a website, but their # is 0187-812-374. I booked in March and it was no problem reserving the place for 3 nights in June. Warning: before getting a room anywhere in Cinque Terre, make sure it isn't too close to a train station; the furniture-rattling express trains roar through the towns at all hours of the night, so be prepared! (They're building noise walls in some towns but I don't know when they'll be done.) The Castiglione's was one of the farthest from the station, and the noise still woke me up often. P.S. When making the hike from Vernazza to Corniglia, bring some cat food; there's a picnic table where some sweet and very hungry momma cats hang out, trying to beg a meal for their babies!
Dave <email>
Manassas, VA USA 08/11/03
I bought Rick Steves italy Guidebook 2003 because Rick listed some places that I couldn't read about in other guidebooks. Two places that I went to thanks to Rick were Bolzano & Civita de Bagnoregio, and they were amazing! Rick may have gone there by car but I went by bus, which is not easy...scarce places, scarce buses & Italians are not keen on speaking English!. Thanks, Rick for letting me discover these 2 places. In fact, some sites listed Rick Steves as introducing Civita to the world! Amazing eh?
I also went to a nudist beach in Cinque Terre. It's a private beach so I had to pay the fees. I was holding Rick's Italy guidebook & the owner saw it & asked me where I am from. I said "Malaysia." He then said that Rick Steves is a famous guy! He was so happy because I told him that I discovered his beach from Rick's guidebook, that he gave me a 10% discount off the fees.
Anuar <email>
Kuala Lumpur, KL Malaysia 07/27/03
Going to Sorrento from Napoli
My wife and I are still in the midst of five weeks in UK, France and (saved the best for last) Italy. Loving all of it and the great help and support from ETBD. One comment suggestion ... TAKE A TAXI if you're going from Napoli train station to the boat (hydrofoil) to Sorrento. For my wife and I it was a miserable experience since we had spent the night (not) sleeping in a couchette with minimal AC from Paris to Rome. Temperatures were well into the 90's and from the book it appeared to be an easy jaunt. Since we were at the limit of physical exhaustion and newly being introduced to the severity of the Italian weather in JULY. A few Euros for a Taxi would have been money well spent. Sorrento was delightful and well worth the 27 hours of restless travel. Took a day or two to recover ... an ideal place to recoup :)
Ken Schwarz <email>
Dallas, TX USA 07/26/03
Rick Steve's Italy
We just returned from a 2 week trip to Venice, Florence and Rome. We had a fabulous time and used Rick's individual books on each of these cities for our tours of the major sights. The pictures in the book helped to keep our tour through the sight on course. Great information on the sights and tips on when and where to get tickets. We stayed at Hotel Campiello in Venice and thought it was great. The location was fabulous, close to a vaporetto stop, and a 5 minute walk to San Marco Square. The room was great as well as the breakfast provided. It included granola, yogurt, pastries, fruit, cheese, ham, orange juice and cookies. It was a pleasant way to start our day. The owners are helpful and very gracious. Terrific place to stay! We would go back.
In Florence we stayed at Rick's suggestion of Hotel Pedini. What a central location! We could walk everywhere. It was in Florence where we had our favorite dinner. It was at Paolos. It was recommended by Rick and the hotel. The salad that they make at your table was divine.
In Rome we ate at Ristorante Alla Rampa which is also in Rick's book. Follow his instructions and get there early as it gets crowded. The one thing Rick did not mention was the Antipasta Buffet which was fabulous and a meal in itself. When the waiter saw the book and was showed that they were recommended in the book they took the book and showed it to all the others that worked there including the manager. It was fun. Lastly, we really enjoyed the tour of Nero's Golden Palace. We found it very interesting and the tour guide we had was an archeologist so she had a lot of interesting information to add to the tour. (Rick, we did have a little trouble finding some of the restaurants in Rome, especially Osteria da Mario.)Rick,thank you for making our trip easy, enjoyable and stress free.
Elaine Joice <email>
San Jose, CA USA 07/26/03
I want to warn people that if they are interested in visiting Civita de Bagnoregio do it in the next few years. We visited the place in July 2003 and it was obvious that they are gearing up for tourism. There are now at least three places to eat. Outside the bar is one of those very bright and colourful signs that advertises various ice cream concoctions. It's days as a throwback to old Italy are numbered.
Raul Lithgo <email>
Seattle, WA USA 07/23/03
Milan, Pisa, Siena
General notes: 1) for the Canadians tourists: prepare to be stopped at the Italian boarder and asked to fill out the questioner about the following: names, addresses and phone numbers of the hotels you are going to stay for the nearest 2 weeks, so you’d better have this info handy when you get off the plane in Italy. Then you’ll be lectured about SARS danger regardless of the province you came from. Don’t get frustrated (like I did) - they just do their job! 2) When I asked my Italian teacher how to say “tap water” in Italian, he was totally shocked. He said that no Italian would drink tap water, especially in Florence, as all Italian rivers are very polluted. So, he said, it’s better to buy mineral water at the supermarket (0.40-0.60 € per 2 litre bottle) than drink tap water. We did just that. The only city where we could find drinkable non-mineral water was Rome - there are lots of drinking fountains with the cold tasty water. In other cities I tried tap water (just for the experience and would not recommend it to anybody)
MILAN. We stayed at the Hotel Speronari - the worst hole I’ve ever seen in my life: there are only 2 good things about it - friendly and helpful staff and the proximity to the Duomo (just around the corner). Other than that it was an absolutely horrible experience: first, you have to climb about 4-6 flights of very steep stairs (after the whole day of walking it’s not fun!), then, when you are finally in your room you’ll see that it’s very shabby furnished, and has a view to the somebody’s toilet. There’s no fridge in the room, so you cannot even have a sip of cold water in the stuffy air at night (no air-conditioning, and you cannot open the window because of the mosquitoes just waiting outside to get you (so many mosquitoes as in Milan I’ve never seen in any other Italian cities, don’t even think about going out without putting some protection - lotion/cream/spray - on). At night there were some young people smoking in the lobby, so when we climbed our stairs we couldn’t breath as the smoke rose right up to the roof. Finally, early in the morning when we were leaving, we came down the stairs just to find a snoring young guy sleeping right on the floor in the lobby only in his underwear, obviously after a very wild night! And this 1-star hotel is not cheap - 82.00 €/night for Db room (if you pay cash, if CC - 88.00 €).
“Ciao” self-service cafeterias were very bad on the both sides of the Duomo: the food was as cold as the service. But there’s a good one on Via Dante - look for the sign “Autogrill” on your left while you walk towards the old castle with the fountain, you will not be disappointed.
PISA There is a baggage check at Pisa’s train station, so you do not have to waste half of your day doing side trip there. Just stop on your way to/from Florence, check your luggage in, and walk straight (literally) to the leaning tower (2 hours are enough for the whole thing). We ate at Self-Service cafeteria (on your left when you leave the Tower): on the second floor - no tourists there, cool and nice, prices are as everywhere, food was very good.
SIENA. We arrived at Siena early Wednesday morning (8.00 a.m.) - the market was already bubbling. You can do great shopping there - 5.00 € for a very nice tablecloth! Just try to come earlier, by 10:00 a.m. it was absolutely packed with locals, we couldn’t move through! We stayed at Alma Domus. It’s true, that the nuns do not speak English, but there are two guys - one works in the afternoon there, the other one - at night, who speak and write absolutely perfect English. The place is magic - for only 55.00 €/night for Db (not 59.00 as per Rick’s book) you’ll have the best view ever! We did have a double bed in the room; there was air-cond. and a balcony where you can hang your clothes/towels out). No fridge though. The place has an elevator (good for the heavy packers or just tired tourists). If you are planning to buy some Deruta ceramics don’t go to the city Deruta - you can buy perfect Deruta ceramics (all possible paterns) in Siena. Just pay attention to the signature at the bottom - there’s quite a bit of scam out there. The best gelato experience was at Gelateria Kopa Kabana - Via dei Rossi 52/54 (goes off the Via di Citta - main tourist drag). Take Tiramisu mousse there - you’ll get a cup of something absolutely fantastic mixed with the cookies soaked in rum! If you do not try it consider your trip to Siena a total failure!
Corinne Vasilyev <email>
Vancouver, BC Canada 07/21/03
The internet access in Stresa is called New Data, and is about 50 meteres down a street off the main square. It is open on Sunday now, after 3:00. Also, be sure to book a day in advance to get the bus to Malpensa. I didn't, but a great receptionist at Hotel Milan Speranza saved the day.
Gini <email>
Grand Ledge, MI USA 07/20/03
Having done Europe in many different ways, tours - solo - long - short even lived there, I must say Rick Steves' books, TV, tips and this website are the best things going. Very accurate, honest and extremely helpful. Thanks
D
FL USA 07/19/03
My 18 year old son and I just returned from 3 weeks in Italy with a stopover in London on the way home. We had a wonderful time staying mostly in hostels, but PLEASE do NOT send anyone to Soggiorno Magliani in Florence in the future. In spite of booking fairly far in advance, they gave us a very small room right on the street, right over the garbage bins that were emptied at 5 am. Keeping the double-paned windows closed cut the noise, but the temperatures were well into the 90's, and there was virtually no ventilation--we were told we had to keep the shutters locked at night to make sure thieves didn't climb up into the window. We had to keep our room door open to the hallway at night, which seemed a but uncomfortable. I asked for a fan the first night, when I woke up at 11:30 stifling. When we went to check out, they wanted to charge me 5 euros a night for it, but hadn't said anything before about a charge for it. We could lock the room, but had to leave the key on a hook in the hall-- so there seemed little point in locking it.
In Rome, the Beehive was great, and Ostello 5terre in Manarola was very good even though the 10am to 5pm lockout was not ideal. The terrace was a wonderful place to sit and chat and make friends there. Ostello de Sirene in Sorrento was friendly but extremely cramped. The Eden hotel listed in Naples is completely closed. We went around the corner and found a decent double for 50 euros with a bathroom. All in all the Italy book was a good basic item for us, and evidently for many others judging from the numbers of folks who recognized the cover.
Anna Kruse <email>
Marysville, WA USA 07/16/03
Varenna, Lake Como Hotels
I would like to add a comment for any travellers to Varenna, after reading a complaint about Albergo Olivedo. We stayed at the Albergo Milano last fall and were very pleased,