More Feedback on Rick Steves' Italy 2003
Please share any ways we can improve or fix this guidebook. Are there recommendations in this book that disappointed you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
(Please note: Feedback on specific hotels, costs, etc. is deleted yearly after Rick uses it to update his guidebook. However, general, timeless recommendations are left here online.)
Smart Bed and Breakfast in ROME
This is a clean and nice place to stay. Very close to the main train station but quiet and safe! Plus a friendly owner!!! Highly recommended!!! Value for money!*please contact email isajiang@virgilio.it ---
Michael <email>
Sheffield, UK 12/30/03
What's the Buzz about the Beehive
I went all over Europe last January and I would have to say that my FAVORITE place we stayed was The Beehive hotel in Rome. I was pleased to see it in the 2004 Italy book, which I just bought for my upcoming study abroad trip to Florence.
Katie and I arrived a day early in Rome and we were going to be staying in the Beehive's "dorm" room the next two nights - we had originally found the hotel in a hostel book we had bought. There were no beds left in the dorm room when we got there, but we got a 60E double room - after a ridiculous overnight train trip from Interlaken, we were ready for a shower! The hotel is really beautiful! It has a nice courtyard out in front with flowers and the inside is absolutely pristine. The bathrooms were very nice - we shared both with our double room and in the dorm room. There is some street noise if you face the street, but we never found it to be a problem, especailly given how close it is to Termini.
The best part of the Beehive was the staff. They were so awesome - the two Americans who own the place have put together their own guide book to Rome that they give you - for free - that Rick would definitely be proud of. It has great recommendations for not-touristy places. One restaurant we went to over by the Colosseum we walked by several times (there was no sign) but when we opened up the door it was filled to the brim with Italians! The Beehive is fantastic. I'm sure it gets packed in the tourist months, so make sure to reserve. When I take another trip to Rome during my study abroad, I will for sure stay there again. www.the-beehive.com
Abby P. <email>
Minneapolis, MN USA 12/29/03
Rome's Termini
I was in Rome for the first time in November 2003 and used the Rick Steves' Rome 2004 book as my bible. It was an invaluable reference. My comment is regarding the Termini in Rome. The book laments the long 10-minute walk from the far tracks used by the Leonardo Express. I encountered this upon arrival in Rome. However, on the way back to the airport, my taxi driver asked where I was headed on the train. When I told him I was going to Fiumicino, he drove me to the Termini entrance directly adjacent to Track 26. All I had to do was walk up the stairs and I was right there, ready to board the Leonardo!
John <email>
Chicago, IL USA 12/27/03
Vernazza, Cinque Terre Paradise
This is the paradise, folks. You have just to call some people and reserve a room and you can be part of all this.There are 5 towns,but the most amazing of all is Vernazza. This town has a piazza in which you can sit, have a cappuccinno and look at the ocean, with the ancient churchbell and the castle in the corners. There are no words to explain such a gorgeous town. I stayed in October at Francamaria Rooms. Some of the rooms have a sea view and some with no view. You can visit the website www.francamaria.com. I was in a large room in the front of the piazza and the ocean,with a pretty bath inside (with shower!). This room was simply fantastic, perfectly cleaned. Thank you Rick for listing Francamaria in your lovely book..and letting us know about Vernazza.
bill hamster
Fort Worth, TX USA 12/26/03
accomodations in rome
smart bed and breakfast was an excellent place to stay when touring in Rome. it has a great location, near the train station and close to all the important sights, with friendly, family style service. i would recommend staying here to anybody! www.bandbromeitaly.com www.downtownaccomodation.com
Anthony Kramer <email>
Madison, WI USA 12/24/03
Sleeping in Italy
I just led a small group of friends and two of my children on an incredible Italian adventure. We used your 2003 book to help us plan the trip and you were on the money with your suggestions. We travelled for 10 days starting in Milan, the to Venice, to Florence, to Rome, to Sorrento and back to Rome. We used trains, great way to go, and finished up from Sorrento on by car.
Adding to your recomendations: we stayed at Bernina hotel in Milan. Great place very cheap. I will stay there again. Florence stayed at Soggiorno Battistero. Fantastic place location wise and clean and very nice owner. Don't drag your luggage though lots of steps to get to the place.
Most of all I want you to check out Il Nido in Sorrento that is not on your list that simply has to be added. I saw it suggested by some of your readers on this graffitti page. This was the best hotel we stayed, and they were all good, at during our trip. The location was fantastic the service was great, the view breathtaking and very inexpensive. Easy to get to positano from this hotel and the amalfi coast. We ate at the hotel both nights and the food was great. If you are in the naples area don't stay anywhere else. My friends and I will go back to Sorrento and we will stay at Il Nido. Thanks for the info. Buon Natale e Felice Anno Nuovo!
tony mannino <email>
st louis, MO USA 12/22/03
Italian Riviera & Cinque Terre
Villa Margherita in Levanto, the doorway to the Cinque Terre, is wonderful. I have visited Federico two years in a row. He picks me up at the train station and his breakfast is great. I love the area. He is the most effecient Italian I have met so far. I had to take my son and his wife so they could stay at Federico's Villa Margherita ( info@villamargherita.net www.villamargherita.net)
Steve Palombelli
New York, NY USA 12/13/03
Amalfi Coast / Capri
In November 2003 my wife and I went back to this area for the third straight year. We find few crowds at this time of the year and really get to enjoy the area in its' tranquil mode. On the Amalfi Coast the only problem we had was finding the off-season SITA bus schedule, but buses were frequent and it really didn't pose a huge problem for us. We just asked a local at the bus stop and found out when the next bus ran.
We stayed four nights at La Tavolozza in Positano and had our usual wonderful stay with Celeste. The views are fantastic from her balconies and since the rooms are below the street level, there is no noise at all during the night. Since reading about this B&B before our trip in Rick's book, this has become our favorite places to stay on the Amalfi Coast. There are two nice places to dine up in Montepertuso and both will send a van to pick you up at your hotel. Da Costantino is in Rick's book and we enjoyed our meal there. We also dined at Il Ritrovo in the town square at Montepertuso and had an economical and nice meal there. Both places are worth a visit.
We spent three nights on Capri and had a nice visit there. The chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro is quite an experience, but not for anyone that had a fear of heights. The views over Capri and Anacapri are beautiful. We dined all three nights at Trattoria Il Tinello. It is located behind the church and up in old town Capri on 1 Via L'Abate. Dinner never begins here until 8 or later and reservations are a must, so have your hotel call for you. Peppino will tell you what he has cooked up and you will not be disappointed. Also the Pizzeria Barbarossa in Anacapri in the main square has the best pizza on the island.
We rode the Marozzi bus from Rome to Sorrento and found this to be a nice way to get to the Amalfi Coast. We took the train back from Salerno. There are a few Eurostar trains that leave Salerno and only stop at the Naples train station, without having to change trains, which is a more pleasant way to get back to Rome. Watch for the Taxi drivers at the Rome station. I had 3 of them that wanted Euro 20-30 to get me to my hotel. They even got in a fisfight in the middle of the street! I went to the taxi stand and got a cab that went by the meter, which only cost Euro 7 to get me there.
Bruce <email>
USA 12/10/03
ANTICHE CANTINE ARDENGHI
VENICE, ITALY. I DISAGREE COMPLETELY WITH RICHARD HUDSON,I'D LIKE TO SAY THAT IT WAS ONE OF THE HIGLIGHTS OF MY TRIP,MR.MICHAEL SPEAKS SEVERAL LANGUEGES AND WE HAD VERY ENJOYABLE DINING EXPERIENCES RECENTLY " AL PARADISO " THANK YOU MICHAEL THANK YOU RICK STEVE.
GUY
TULSA, OK USA 12/05/03
Italy and hotels in Italy
I just came back from 3 weeks in Italy in Oct. 2003. I use Rick Steves books all the time, but some comments on hotels especially...prices are at least $10.00 and more than published. I think a section ought to be added on Lucca. What a lovely city. I am going back in May 2004 and spend 3 days and go into Florence for a day trip. I liked the Hotel Althea in Florence great bargin. I am trying to find a hotel in Rome and the Hotel Navona was one I was interested in because of its location, but they require a travelers check for $300.00 sent registred mail. That should be in the description I think that should be mentioned. They were very nice, but now I will look elsewhere. I am a fan of his books however...The cinque terre is (Vernazza) a Rick Steves town, but thats a good thing I guess. Rick is so right about traveling light.
Dee Ann Murdock <email>
San Diego, CA USA 12/05/03
Rome
Just finished a trip to Rome in November. Stayed at the Hotel Navona for over a week to hang out and enjoy the city. We enjoyed our stay there. Our 7 yr old son loved it. It was reasonably priced, clean and staff was very helpful. Location was fabulous so close to Pantheon. We initially took cabs and public transport but eventually figured out it was so close to everything we walked everywhere. Only took transit to satisfy our son's curiosity. This hotel was in the RS 2003 which when we booked was probably the current copy . Notice it's now been omitted from the 2004 edition. There is now no comparably (cheap) priced hotel for that part of town in RS's recommendations. Having stayed in the ancient part of town with its charm, atmosphere and location, I don't think I would want to stay in any other part of town.
hdw <email>
USA 12/04/03
Naples Crime
My wife and I just returned from a 10 day stay in Italy. We started in Milan, then went on to Naples to take in the culture and people of the city. We read and re-read Rick's recent article on Naples, particularly the part where one should put their fears aside, and venture out into the streets to experience the hanging laundry, meet the people etc. Well we did just that, staying at a 4 star hotel adjacent to the Duomo (the Carravagio). We set out in daylight and made a mistake.
I took out my camera and took a picture of my wife standing in the street just outside our hotel, under rows of drying laundry. Soon after putting the camera back in our tote bag, along came a thief on a Vespa, snatching the camera and bag from under my arm. I gave chase but to no avail, only to arouse the dogs on the street and a few locals who had the opportunity to intervene but chose not to do so. Almost a code of the street, or the neighborhood or worse yet I fear, of the entire city.
The report to the police was an experience in futility. After waiting 45 minutes, an officer who understood minimal English, proceeded to pull out a 1 inch pile of theft report forms in many different languages until he fould one in English. We filled it out, he signed it, put 5 different stamps on the original, made 7 copies, and gave one to us to keep.
I'm posting this as I think your readers should know that to traverse the streets of Naples is to surrender some of the joys of being a tourist in a foreign land. One has to be ever mindful and vigilant of all that is around you, especially those Neapolitans who would abuse rather than converse with those of us who bring our US $ into their economy.
Bob Booth <email>
Washington Twp,, NJ USA 12/03/03
Rome lodging
We just returned from Rome (Nov 03) Rick Steves' book was extremely helpful. We stayed at Residenza Cellini on Via Modena. It was charming, immaculately clean, the beds were very comfortable. We stayed in the junior suite with our two children; very roomy and the bathroom was luxurious with bidet and jacuzzi tub. We were treated like family. Asking for cappucinno at midnight was never an inconvenience to the staff. I would absolutely stay there again. One major negative about Rome: everybody smokes; bring your gas mask. November is a wonderful time to travel, as lines were not terribly long to the major sights.
Joe & Micheline Toohey <email>
Naples, Fl USA 12/01/03
corrections and comments
We've just returned from our 3rd Italian vacation in 4 years. Needness to say, we love Italy, and are already planning a Spring '04 trip. Here are a couple of suggestions, and one correction.
The correction: the vaporetto from Murano to Burano leaves from the Faro stop, not from the Colonna stop. But as always, you should ask the 'gate keeper' on the vaporetto if he's going where you want to go. Sometimes the number of the vaporetto is different from the one you thought you needed to take, but it will be stopping where you wanted to go, anyway. We've never been answered with anything but courtesy when we've asked, and we've been saved from some very time consuming errors.
Suggestions: if you want to use a washcloth, take your own. They don't exist in Italian hotels. Better yet, take along one of those net puff things. The maid won't confuse it for something that belongs to the hotel, and most important, those puffs dry almost immediately, so you won't be carrying a damp, nasty washcloth from one city to another.
Be sure to validate your train ticket. Just buying it isn't enough, you have to then validate it in one of the many yellow boxes all around the train station. We didn't know this, but the conductor on the Milan/Venice train was nice enough to explain it to us, and then didn't charge us the fine.
Lastly, I want to thank Rick for his very funny, often irreverent comments about the art works in museums and churches. We enjoyed sharing his sense of humor.
Sally <email>
Sherman Oaks, C A USA 11/23/03
Italy
My wife and I visited Florence, Rome and the Cinque Terra last year and saved lots of money using Rick Steves' guide books for hotels, meals, etc. By the way, you can usually save more money by e-mailing the hotels. We saved 10-30% more. Going again next year.
Jim <email>
Denver, NC USA 11/22/03
Italy & France
My girlfriend and I traveled to Italy and France and had a great trip thanks to Rick Steves’ guidebooks and all his other services. The guidebooks were so complete but the maps could have been a little more complete.
We went first to Roma. We did it in one day but I wish we had longer. Roma had so many things to see. We stayed at Hotel Oceania. Our room was very nice and service was friendly. Web: www.hoteloceania.it.
Our next stop was Siena, and we stayed at Albergo Bernini Hotel. It was home-like. Tel: 0577-289-047, e-mail: hbernin@tin.it , www.albergobernini.com. I would recommend staying at least four days in Siena. Rent a car and drive around to other towns.
Cinque Terre: Rick Steves’ was right, Vernaza is a fantastic little town. We stayed at Tonino Basso, Tel: 0187-821-264, Cell 335-269-436, email: toninobasso@libero.it The rooms are modern and come with a computer so you can email.
We ended our trip in France, beginning in Paris, staying at Grand Hotel Leveque on the Rue Cler; info@hotel-leveque.com. The hotel was ok, but I would check around next time for a better place. Rue Cler is a good place to start your day. Paris was magnificent! I can’t wait to return.
We went to Beaune, in Burgundy, and stayed at Hotel De France. E-mail: hotfrance.beaune.wanadoo.f35. Tel: 03 80 24 10 34. The rooms were nice and clean and the restaurant was a dream come true. I wish we had spent more time in Beaune. Do not go on the “Wine Safari Minibus Tour” from Beaune. It cost more than it’s worth and you spend most of the time in the van.
Gregory Mayfield <email>
Pleasant Hill, CA USA 11/22/03
Good Italian taxi tours
We just returned from a very enjoyable trip/cruise to Europe and wanted to let you know how pleased we were with the services of Taxi Benvenuto (suggested in Rick's book). We appreciated their ability to help us with our last minute request and provide us with very professional and knowledgeable drivers in Livorno (tour to Florence and Pisa), Civitavecchia (tour of Rome) and Naples (tour of Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast). We were on a Mediterranean cruise and chose Taxi Benvenuto’s service over the excursions offered by the cruise line. The drivers were prompt at each port (3). With 8 of us in two families, I'm sure we were able to see much more than we would have if we had taken the excursions or tried to rent a car, and the cost was about a third of what we would have had to pay!
In particular, we especially enjoyed our day in the Naples area, where we were thoroughly impressed with both Giovanni, our driver, and the guide they arranged for us in Pompeii. That day was certainly the highlight of our trip! Great value, informative & courteous drivers: I highly recommend Benvenuto Chauffeur service (www.benvenutolimos.com or www.taxibenvenuto.com).
Thank you so much for your advice and for helping to make our European trip a most enjoyable and memorable experience.
Mary O'Connor
Mill Creek, Wa , USA 11/21/03
Venice and the Cinque Terre
Just returned from a great 2-week trip to Italy. This time, our 3rd trip, we followed Rick's recommendations all the way and had a great vacation, which didn't cost a fortune. 4 nights in Venice at the Hotel alla Salute we found very restful. The location was perfect, the mattresses wonderful and the room very quiet - all you could hear were church bells. There was no TV, but who needs a TV in Venice!
On to the Italian Riviera. We stayed at Hotel Fasce in Santa Margherita and would go back in a minute. The owner Jane was so incredibly helpful and nice, the room was beautiful, the hotel and grounds as well and it was a nice location to base when exploring the area. We took the local train two days in a row to see all 5 towns in the "Cinque Terre" and it worked out really well. The pristine beauty of the Cinque Terre amazed us. The people were nice, the food was amazing and the wine even better. Keep in mind that we went at the end of October/beginning of November, so there were no crowds, but still nice weather for being outdoors.
We walked the two easy trails (from Riomaggiore to Manarola and then from Manarola to Corneglia) first. Very easy. The next day we walked the trail from Vernazza to Monterosso and I must say I had a really difficult time. I am in good shape, that wasn't the problem. I thought it was quite dangerous and not for the faint-hearted. There were 3 or 4 spots where I actually considered turning back, because I thought it too dangerous to go on, but I didn't want to go back either. People should be warned that this hike is not for the faint of heart, or anyone who has vertigo!
All told, our best vacation yet. We will always check Rick's guidebooks first, wherever we travel. Thank you so much!
Barbara Ricciardi
Denville, NJ USA 11/16/03
Albergo Marin, Venice
Albergo Marin hotel in Venice was great. Friendly, clean, good breakfast included in the price. We walked in without a reservation and had a room within 5 minutes. 100 euro for room for 3 people and private bath. Conveniently located and easy to find. Would stay again and will recommend it to friends.
Faith Luccioni <email>
Brooklyn, NY USA 11/14/03
Venice: Albergo Marin is a winner!
What a difference "under new management" makes! After reading a few comments made by disgruntled visitors from the past, I am more than happy to add news from the present--staying at the Albergo Marin in Venice was the perfect way to begin my travels through Italy. At (Euro) 55/night my room was a steal. The location was superb, but one thing stood out more than my room.
I was greeted by the more-than-helpful Gabriele. He went out of his way to make sure my stay was a pleasant and memorable one. He's a winner and I'd gladly go to Venice again to stay at the Albergo Marin and say "hi" to him.
When new management takes over, old comments/reviews should be ignored. Now they are misleading. Anyone headed to Northern Italy should definitely include plans to stay at the Albergo Marin in Venice if they wanted to be treated with dignity and respect.
Clint Adams <email>
Oakland, CA USA 11/13/03
Rist. Grotta S. Caterina da Bagoga - fabulous!
The Ristorante Grotta S. Caterina da Bagoga was fabulous in Siena! We ate there three nights in a row and never had a bad meal. Good variety - not just pasta.
Lori Sherwood <email>
San Diego, CA USA 11/09/03
Veneto and Dolomites
My wife and I focused a late September trip in the Veneto and the Dolomites. Rick recommends Castelrotto as a great town from which to visit the Dolomites and we agree. A good Sud-Tirol place to stay is Haus Silbernagl. The house, run by the charming and enthusiastic Petra, is a good value at 40.50E/person. The rooms are large and spotless. Petra serves a great breakfast. The main square is a 5 minute walk. Parking at the house is convenient. Visit their web-site at: www.garni-silvernagl.com. In the Veneto, we stayed at the agriturismo Fattoria Grimana only a few km from Vicenza and easy access to the main autostrata. We stayed in a large (would sleep 5) "bio-apartment" for 77E/night. The rooms are new and very clean. Breakfast is the traditional for the area, sweets, juice and strong coffee. There are many "local" restaurants within a few minutes drive where good regional dishes are served. Order the baccala if you are brave. The web site for the agriturismo is: www.agriturismofattoriatrimana.it. One last comment, the dollar was weak and many prices for attractions in Ricks 2003 book have already gone up.
Larry <email>
Florence, KY USA 11/09/03
Venetian restaurant
Our best dining experience in all of Italy ? "antiche cantine ardenghi" in venice; it was truly the best dininig experience we had in all of Italy, everything was excellent. you become one of the family! i would like to say thanks to Rick Steves.
Michele Horn <email>
New York, NY USA 11/06/03
Siena -Restaurant
While in Siena, Italy October 23-25, 2003, for our son's wedding, we had a truly unbelievable dinner at Ristorante Guidoriccio, just around the corner from the IlCampo on Via Dupre! Run by an Italian couple, with very light & bright brick vaulted ceilings. While having our wine, the waiter (owner) carefully explained each item on the menu in english for us.The food was stupendous! Marvelous! Moderate pricing. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay, and the owners made us feel so welcome. This place was not in the Rick Steves guidebook, but it should be!!!
Jim Castino <email>
Fox Island, WA USA 11/05/03
Doni Hotel Venice, Italy
Do not stay at the Doni Hotel. It is not clean and the staff is hostile. It would be better to stay out of Venice in the Lido than to land here.
Eileen McDermott <email>
portland, OR USA 11/04/03
Accomodation in Rome
A fabulous hotel that we got off lots of research from this site is Residenza Cellini....fabulous place! It was extremely clean, huge rooms, we stayed in 3 different suites (we kept going back!) all were beautiful, with breakfast included. Extremely helpful staff, great location, everything about it was brilliant.
Leigh Evans <email>
Sydney, AUSTRALIA, NSW AUSTRALIA 11/01/03
IL Nido Hotel, Sorrento
We travelled to Sorrento in September 2003. We booked into IL Nido which is not in Rick Steves book, but we heard good things about it, so we booked there. I do not recommend this hotel, its so far from the main area, and 25 Euro for a taxi into town. The owner Gianni is very unfriendly, a change from when we were booking over the phone. Rooms are very run down, a fabulous view, but shabby decor. Also they have a very strange rule about having friends visit your room. My brother in law wasn't allowed to visit me, he was asked to wait in the foyer....weird!! It's run like a monastery. I suggest a much better hotel very close to town with amazing huge rooms and views overlooking Mt Vesuvius and the Bay of Napoli: Minerva Hotel. It's brilliant.
Leigh Evans <email>
Australia, NSW Australia 11/01/03
Florence Hotel
We travelled through Italy in Aug/Sept 2003.....our best hotel experience was in Florence at Panella's Residence. Fabulous!!! You all must stay there, if you can get a booking...The owners of this residence, Graziela and her husband...were unbeleivably helpful. They have 6 difference type suites to choses from. We stayed on their top floor, 3 of us, a big king size bed and a single bed, in 2 separate huge rooms (also a downstairs writing type room...huge!) We had our own terrace which was gorgeous, overlooking the rooftops of Florence. Very close to all main attractions, and they were so helpful in guiding us where to go. And only 200 Euro's a night....much cheaper than other places and no comparison! Breakfast included, very good also. HIGHLY recommend this place...fabulous.
Leigh Evans <email>
Sydney, Australia, nsw Australia 11/01/03
Florence, Pisa, Siena and Venice
Went to Italy with my sister from Oct. 4 to Oct. 12. We stayed 5 nights in Florence at the Soggiorno Pezzati Alessandra, one of Rick's suggestions. I have no complaints. The room we had was very quiet and very clean. We stayed there for 60 euros a night. A great bargain. Just pay in cash. It is south of the Arno river, in the Oltrarno area. It isn't in the city center but it is walking distance from the sights in my opinion. Will definitely stay there again.
Florence is beautiful. We visited everything that needed to be visited. I highly recommend going to the Uffizi at 8:15 in the morning if you aren't making reservations because it fills up fast. One surprise for me was the scale of Michaelangelo's David in the Acadamia. I had always assumed it was a regular sized statue. It is practically 2 stories high and mesmerizing to look at.
My best meal in Florence was at the Siubbe Rosse in the the Piazza Republicca. I had the Parmesan Risotto. It came out steaming and was incredibly delicious. Talk about comfort food.
While in Florence we took day trips to Pisa and Siena. If you go to Pisa, please don't just see the tower. Fork over a few euros and go inside the Duomo there. It is spectacular. One of he best I have seen. Yes, the tower leans but the Duomo made it all worth the trip.
Siena is amazing and so interesting to look at. I recommend buying a map to navigate thru the city. Also, if you're in the Campo, recall what side you entered in on, so you can exit the same way.
In Venice we stayed at San Geremia, one of Rick's suggestions in his Venice 2004 edition. It was a great hotel in this little Campo. We had a view of the church just across from the hotel. Plus, there are a ton of eating places in this area. This hotel is right down the Lista di Spagna. Right near the train station. I highly recommend staying near the train station in Venice. One thing I didn't want was to lug my luggage on to a water taxi. It was nice to just roll it down a street. Rick needs to check out more hotels in this area, it is soooo convenient.
Venice in general is a beautiful city. I loved walking over canals and trying to navigate thru the city. It was quite an adventure. St. Mark's Square had way too many tourists but a must see if you are going to the city. I just wouldn't linger. I found Venice more enjoyable in the less touristed spots. We found the way to St. Marks without taking a vaporetto. It is like a 15 to 20 minute walk but will take longer if you stop at one of the hundreds of shops along the way.
We also visited the lagoon island of Murano that has all the glass works. Nice side trip.
This is my second trip to Italy and first trip dealing with Euros. The first was to Rome a few years ago. I do remember not having to pay to go into churches. Now it seems churches cost around 2 to 5 euros to enter. Throughout our trip we had incredible weather. It only rained once in Florence for 30 minutes. Italy was FAB!
Terry Lowry <email>
Dallas, TX USA 11/01/03
Venice hotel
Thanks to Rick Steve's book we found the perfect place to stay for our visit to Venice. We just returned yesterday (10/30/03) and want to let you know how well our stay at the Albergo Marin turned out. Its location close to the train station and a waterbus stop made access to everything perfect. The hotel had nice big rooms with everything we needed. Best of all, with the new management, the people in charge could not have been more helpful or gracious! As with every place, people truly make the difference! Thank you again Rick Steves!
Sheila C
New Berlin, WI USA 10/31/03
Reifenstein Castle
My wife and I had hoped to see Reifenstein Castle on our trip from Hall in Tirol to the Italian Dolomites. Although the sign states a min. of 4 people, we were 2 and had another person there that wanted to take the 2 pm tour. My wife is handicapped but made the walk up to the Castle. It took us over 1/2 hour due to her obvious problems. The "kind" lady of the Castle smiled at us and said no as she slammed the door in our face! It's unfortunate that she had no compassion for a woman who had gone through so much trouble to see her castle. I would not give that woman a dime to see her castle! If you do go, make sure you have at least 4 people.
Paul Alesi <email>
Netcong, NJ USA 10/30/03
B&B in Umbria
My husband and I stayed in Stroncone at La Porta del Tempo B&B on the day of the great blackout in Italy. Christina's baking made for an excellent breakfast. A wonderful place to stay. They are gracious. Their website is www.portadeltempo.com.
Lynn Wright <email>
SC USA 10/28/03
Hotel Loreley was moldy
In Sorrento, I stayed at Hotel Loreley. The staff was moderately helpful, the view was great, and the price was reasonable. However, my room was moldy. There were water stains on the wall, and I could hear dripping from time to time. It smelled bad and was just a musty humid. The tiles had mildew on the grout. I'm not a clean freak, but it was very disgusting to me. I could barely sleep. I was in room 30, next to the downstairs bathrooms, and people used it all hours of the night. With a lack of sound-proofing, it was as if someone was urinating next to your bed. Plus, people were up late, then the staff was up early banging around. It's worth paying extra money to stay somewhere else.
C
CA USA 10/28/03
Rome, et al.
I was in Italy last spring for a month and used Rick Steves' 2003 Italy guidebook to get around Milan, Florence, Rome, Sorrento, Naples, Amalfi, Siena, Venice and places in between. I found a few minor inaccuracies in the book, but mostly it had all the info I needed to find decent lodgings and good places to eat, navigate the tourist attractions, and get from one place to the other without too much hassle. It was my very first trip outside the U.S. and also my first solo trip anywhere, and I was a little nervous about going, but I had a spectacular time and plan to return next spring and definitely will use Rick's guidebook again (2004 ed.). A couple of observations:
I was impressed by how safe I felt everywhere I went in Italy, even after dark in Rome. The only odd thing to happen to me in Rome happened in broad daylight in crowds: I was targeted by a pickpocket on the infamous #64 bus (from the Termini to the Vatican). However, having read about bus #64 in Rick’s book, I was prepared for the the thief (money belt worn under my underwear; nothing in my pockets except loose change; purse containing guidebook and camera grasped tightly in front of me) and no harm done.
As far as lodgings in Rome go, the Smart B&B (0039-06-483892; www.bandbromeitaly.com), a few blocks south of the Termini and a block from Santa Maria Maggiore Church on Via Farina, was a good deal (at about $70 Euro/night) with four large, comfy, and relatively quiet rooms that share a large, luxurious bathroom. There is an elevator up to the flat, and the hostess, Isa Jiang, is warm and helpful and speaks good English. She and her husband and son were particularly kind to me, treating me to dinner on Easter Sunday because I “shouldn’t be alone so far from home on Easter) and then later taking me into their own home when I missed a train connection and couldn’t get a room reservation for the night because it was Saturday of a 4-day holiday weekend and there were no vacancies anywhere.
One thing I will do differently in future is pack a lot lighter! Lugging 70 pounds of luggage over the cobbled streets and slinging it onto trains was no fun, and I ended up not using about ½ of what I brought anyway!
Mary Kip <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 10/23/03
Venice: Antiche Cantine Ardenghi
My husband and I just returned from Venice. We stayed in the new Michele end Lucia restaurant. Many thanks to Rick Steve.
Donna Fisher <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 10/22/03
Accommodation - Milan
Milan - beware Hotel Demo. As a woman travelling alone I chose it from the internet because it was 5 minutes from the railway station and was said to feature lots of local artwork. Having paid a deposit by credit card, arrived there hot and tired at the end of the day only to find they'd overbooked, even though I'd reconfirmed a few days before, by email. Got very grumpy but was directed to Hotel Edolo, 10 mins further on, and taken to a deathtrap room at the top of the stairs (no lift), no windows (only 2 small blacked out skylights which I couldn't reach, even by jumping on the bed!), but it was clean and comfortable, if inconveniently located.
Linda Halliday <email>
USA 10/22/03
Cinque Terre
Thanks for the tips on the Cinque Terre. I based myself at Vernazza, staying at Eremo sul Mare, a tiny B&B accessible to the fit and determined! It was a shortish but very steep hike around the hill just to the south of the town, and I found out about it from someone else who'd written about it on your website. Definitely not for the fainthearted or heavily laden - no suitable paths for wheeled suitcases, and the steps are designed for long legs! Made the mistake of walking from Monterosso to Vernazza rather than the reverse, which is said to be easier. Great foccaccia-based pizza in Monterosso, by the way!
Linda Halliday <email>
Christchurch, NZ 10/22/03
Rick's Italy
Wonderfully helpful book, as always. Must comment on the Residence Adler in Rome. While Rick described their rooms, I think, as "elegant," we wouldn't go any better than "utilitarian" or, perhaps, "spartan." But maybe some of the other rooms were better. It was a two-star hotel after all and was, in fact, in a great location. Anyway, the enthusiastic staff more than made up for the room, and the breakfast nook was a delight.
Later in La Spezia, we were driven almost to distraction trying to find the parking garage that Rick said was close to the train station. We intended to leave our rental car in La Spezia and take the train over to Cinque Terre but were confounded by the instructions to the "garage" that we received from the TI at the train station. We finally gave up and drove over to Vernazza, a drive that I would actually recommend as it turned out. The road wasn't that bad, paved all the way, and narrowed to one-car width only over the last kilometer or so. Quite an experience, and I intend to include it's successful navigation on my resume.
Heartily concur with Rick's description of the traffic in Florence. We drove there only to drop off the rental then spend a couple of nights in the Pensione Pendini, a wonderful hotel right in the center of things, as Rick said.
One of the highlights of our two weeks in Italy was the agriturismo in Tuscany named Malverino, which Rick did not specifically mention but should have. (Check out their website). Just about five kilometers south of Assisi and overlooking the most beautiful Tuscan valley one can imagine. It offered very nice rooms, a swimming pool, a riding stable, and nightly dinners prepared by Grandma, who gives cooking lessons on the side. You can imagine what those meals were like: five different courses each night with wine and after-dinner drinks for E20. We were considering not telling anyone about it, but decided to share. Use it as your base while you explore hilltowns in the region. We'd put Italy at the top of anyone's list considering a trip to Europe. Don't forget Rick's book.
Robert Lee <email>
Annapolis, MD USA 10/21/03
Italian Riviera
Just back from two wonderful weeks in Italy thanks to Rick's books and contributors' advice. Thank you everyone!
The Villa Margherita B&B in Levanto near the Cinque Terre was wonderful. Federico is very patient with guests prior to arrival and just as wonderful afterward. As a matter of fact, we found the entire staff to be a delight. Location of the Villa Margherita turned out to be ideal. In Levanto, we found the pizzeria Taverna Garibaldi a great place after a long day of walking. We did try the famous "farinata della casa" and recommend it to everyone. Service was perfect and food delicious.
For day trips, we highly reccomend Portofino. For a break from the guidebook, we took a day tour to Varese Ligure and the Val di Vara Valley. We highly recommend Varese Ligure!!
Thomas Patry
Rochester, NY USA 10/21/03
Antiche Cantine Ardenghi, Venice
Please note that one of Rick's restaurant picks in Venice, the Antiche Cantine Ardenghi, has moved temporarily (?) to the island of Murano, and that according to the owner, Michele, the new atmosphere is quite a bit different (i.e., "much more modern") from the description in Rick's guidebook.
bob and ann kingston <email>
portland, or USA 10/19/03
Eating in Venice
Two of our favorite restaurants are located in the sestiere of Castello. The first is Al Mascaron (Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa 5525), a bustling osteria frequented mainly by locals, that's known for its excellent fish dishes. This place fills up quickly, so expect to wait for a table. Also, there's not much English spoken, so it's best to brush up on a few Italian phrases before you go.
Our second recommendation, also a favorite with the locals, is the Tratorria alla Rivetta (at the base of the Ponte San Provolo, Campo San Filippo 4625). If you walk by at 7:30, there'll only be a few diners inside; by 8:30, there's a line out the door. The place to get fegato alla veneziana (calves' liver fried with salt, pepper, and onions), and a great selection of grappa, too. If you're lucky, you'll be sharing a digestivo with your table companions before the night is through.
bob and ann kingston <email>
portland, or USA 10/19/03
Residenza Cellini/Rome
We were lucky to book 4 of the 6 beautiful newly renovated rooms at the Residenza Cellini this past June. It is a most elegant convenient place to stay. The breakfast and service was superb and made our time in Rome quite special!
Bonnie Bayuk <email>
New Haven, CT USA 10/15/03
Manarola, Cinque Terre
Just returned from a week in Italy, with three nights in Manarola, Cinque Terre. Excellent stay at Da Barranin B&B in Manarola. Room was spacious & clean, and the owner was understanding when our train was late (after hours.) Great seafood antipasto and pesto pasta at Taverna Del Capita in Vernazza. My favorite town was Corniglia, very charming, although each town has its own personality. We even saw Thomasina from Rick's video! Views of the Mediterranean are breathtaking. Not for people who can't walk uphill. Thanks Rick!
Herb
USA 10/15/03
Hotel Star, Milan
I would think twice about recommending or booking hotel reservations with Hotel Star. My boyfriend and I just spend two incredible weeks in Italy, ending our trip in Milan. We agree the location was convenient, the reception area pleasant and the bathroom very modern however, the bedroom was something out of a 1970's show: depressing dark colors, yellowing wallpaper & old furniture (the chairs were plastic patio furniture) - we couldn't wait to leave the room.
It got worse - every time we left our room to go out, the housekeeping staff would come into our room, rearrange our bags, clothes, items on the desk and bathroom counters, remove any items from the bed - it was more than strange to say the least. This happened four times - it almost felt like we were being spied on. When I called the front desk to explain that we did not need housekeeping to "tidy-up" our room while we were out, the man at the desk claimed he did not speak English and could not help me. Funny, because the next evening when we spoke with him to arrange for a taxi, he spoke fluent English, but he was very cold to us. We have never had an experience like this. This is not the way we wanted to end our trip and I highly recommend another hotel if you plan to travel to Milan.
As a side comment, we stayed at the Hotel Torino in Parma, which was similar in description to the Star: room was dark & depressing, but location was ideal. However, the big difference was the staff who couldn't have been more friendly or helpful & the terrific continental breakfast. Because of this we were able to overlook the dismal room and walk away with a good experience.
Susanne Bartz <email>
Boston, MA USA 10/15/03
Beautiful Italy!!
My husband and I just came back from a two-week holiday in Italy. We love the country! Rick's book was invaluable. We are particularly impressed with 2 hotels:
Rome: Stayed in Hotel Nardizzi. Location was good; Samy was really helpful. He went all the way to help us find a room in another hotel when he couldn't accommodate us (our itinerary was affected by the country-wide power failure)
Florence: The room in Bellevue House was spacious. The bathroom was impressive. Antonio was very hospitable.
Rick, I'd like to suggest to have some Chinese eateries included in your book. We found that the Chinese food in Italy was cheap and delicious.
Sharon <email>
Singapore, SIN 10/14/03
Il Pirate--great pastries
My husband and I tried Il Pirate at Vernazza and enjoyed their pastries. I had read the reviews on Rick's website before leaving and knew they collected post cards and enjoyed seeing where everyone came from. Hats off to the Cinque Terre---lovely!!
Teresa & Rod <email>
Cottage Hills,, IL USA 10/14/03
Comment on Train Schedules
I read the comment about using the Deutsche Bahn web site for train schedules and wanted to recommend that agin. The site is www.bahn.de. You can click on International Guests to get English if you don't speak German. Why is it so fabulous? Because you can get train schedules for just about any EU to EU destination. Prices are only quoted for Germany itself. I have lived in Germany for five years and use it all the time for travel planning. Even once you are on the road you can find an Internet cafe and print out (or scribble down) some itinerary possiblities so you go to the train station knowing what you want to do.
Jamie Faulkner <email>
Bad Aibling, Germany 10/13/03
Getting to Montepulciano
Just returned from two weeks in Italy and as always used Rick's book as our primary guide. We stayed in Montepulciano as well as some other wonderful places. Just one comment: the 2003 edition describes taking the bus from the Montepulciano train station up the hill to Piazza San Agnese. Actually, there is no train station in Montepulciano. The nearest station is Chiusi and a bus runs from there. Avis also has car rentals there.
Gale Cornett <email>
Houston, TX USA 10/13/03
October Italy Trip
My husband and I just returned from a 2 week trip to Italy: Trento, Venice, Siena, Sorrento, Rome. Since I made extensive use of the postings here, I thought I’d give some back in return. Trento: A wonderful little town in the mountains, with a castle and beautiful church in the middle. Plenty of shopping and restaurants. Within easy reach of many gorgeous mountain ranges.
Venice: We stayed at Hotel Ovidius, near the Rialto. There is nothing special to recommend this hotel and I would stay somewhere else next time. We wanted a room overlooking the Grand Hotel, but it wasn’t worth the price. We had 2 dinners near the water and both were bland and forgettable. The Secret Itineraries tour at the Doge’s Palace is fun.
Siena: Stayed at Albergo Bernini. Good location, nice owners. We had excellent dinners at Gallo Nero and Il Verrochio. A carafe of wine sitting in a café on Il Campo isn’t too expensive and is a nice way to relax. Walkabout Pub near the university is an Australian pub with good beer.
Sorrento: Stayed at Settimo Cielo. Rick should really put this place in his book – it’s a great budget alternative. Average room with a nice view, pretty hotel, friendly staff. It’s a 10 minute walk into town proper, but doable. Walk off the main streets for the charm. We had a fantastic dinner at L’Antica Trattoria. This was our big splurge for the trip. The food was wonderful and the ambience was very romantic. I heard people say that they had been there 2 or 3 times that week already. We had no problems riding the Circumvesuviana to and from Naples and Pompeii. David Gelato was great.
Rome: We stayed at Hotel Aberdeen. The best hotel of the trip. Walking distance from the train station and the room was very nice with a comfortable bed. The woman at the desk during the day was extremely knowledgeable and very helpful and friendly. We had dinner at Flann O’Brien Irish Pub and had the best pizza of the trip. We also had a good meal at Annicinquanta on Via Flavia. Gelateria della Palma had the best gelato of the trip.
Some tips we discovered from our recent trip to Italy:
1) It is very difficult to use traveler’s checks, even those in Euros. Many restaurants and shops would not take them. We finally ended up cashing them at a currency exchange.
2) Always have some change with you if you plan to eat outside. Inevitably there will be a musician or two.
3) Use the Deutsche Bahn train schedules, print out a few options and bring them with. That saves time trying to figure out how to get to your next destination if you miss the train.
4) Check to make sure the sight you wish to visit will be open on the day you wish to visit it. By chance, we discovered in time that Pompeii would be closed on the one day we had set aside to visit.
5) If you want to get a dinner table easily, go out at 7:30 pm. Places get crowded by 8:30 no matter which city it is.
6) Waterproof your backpack before you go, as well as your shoes.
7) If you are visiting people, try to schedule it for after you get over jet lag. That way you can spend quality time with them.
Sharon <email>
Chicago, IL USA 10/12/03
Italy
I have just returned from Florence and Venice using RS city books. It was incredible! I stayed in hostels every night, and although it usually meant having to take a 20 min bus ride to the city centre, it was worth it. The HI hostel in Florence, the Villa Camerata, was beautiful beyond words. Cheap too. 15.50 Euros incl breakfast. Great ambiance and a pretty good chef for evening meals. One word of advice if travelling to the Hostel in Siena...If you arrive by train, take the #10 bus across the parking lot, past all the construction. The bus #10 that arrives directly in front of the station does NOT take you to the hostel. As I found out on a very long, hot Sunday.
Megan <email>
Vancouver, BC Can 10/12/03
Rome & Tustcanny feedback
We just got back from 12 days in Tuscany and Rome. Here's what we thought.
Rome: Hotel Aberdeen was great. Quiet, well appointed very nice staff and well priced at 139E. We didn't have our best food in Rome but 59 Guiseppe near Piazze de Poppolo was excellent Bolognese food.
Assisi: Annalisa Martini provided a nice inexpensive lodging and also recommended our best food in Assisi. The restaurant right next to her place was our best meal there. Although Assisi was nice, it was VERY touristy. I lost count of shops selling religious souvenirs. One day here is plenty. We were treated to a big festival commemorating St. Francis. Parking was a trick here at first but this was our first experience driving into a town.
Cortona: We had a great stay in the San Luca hotel. It was 100 euros for a room with a gorgeous view. The town was nice but WAY too much like Assisi. You could see it in even less time. More like a town to visit on your way somewhere like Siena. A highlight of the area for food freaks is Il Falconiere Restaurant. Excellent food which would cost much more in the US and has no smoking. I think the prix fix is 65E.
Siena: Much more going on here. The buildings alone were gorgeous. We stayed at the Piccolo Hotel Etruria. It's just like Rick said, clean, updated, well located and small. I'd skip the breakfast. We had hotdog buns and jam. I'm not making that up. You want to eat breakfast elsewhere and a warning, if you stay in Siena on Saturday night, it will be very noisy. It's just a short block from the Piazza del Campo and we had drunk students at one point 5 feet from our window. We did sleep eventually but if you're noise sensitive, I'd try to find something a few blocks further off. Parking was a bit of a trick here too till we figured out that the highways took you eventually to a loop around town where you can find many "P" areas. Any "P" near the city wall is not going to be far from the main hotels.
Food - Enoteca I Terzi came recommended from a friend in the wine business, it was great. Very good food with even better wine. A huge list which was fairly priced. In most restaurants we'd been to previously the wine list went like (Chianti, Montepulciano, Barolo) etc etc with no wine makers or vintages. Not so in Tuscany. You get the real thing there. I Terzi has a real Sommelier who made great recommendations for us that were not expensive.
Chianti: This area proved to be a highlight of the trip. Just driving through the area from Bernardenga to Greve was just gorgeous. A welcome change from all the touristy hill towns we'd seen before. If you go to Italy, keep your diet of these towns to a minimum. Once you've seen one or two, you won't want to see lots more. Restaurant Botega Trenta (30) in Via Sesta (VERY small town north of Bernardenga) was one of the best I've been to anywhere. Wine, food (also 60E prix fix). It was our most memorable evening. Closed Tues/Wed I think.
Montalcino: Someone on this site recommended Palazzina Cesare. It was one of the best stays of the trip. Breakfast included wonderful omlettes which after our fill of Italian breakfasts was soooooo nice. It was 70E and yes, the rooms are as nice as they look on the site. Just great all the way around. Roberto, the owner, speaks perfect English (must have been American or grew up here) and had great advice. I didn't think Montalcino would be anything special but I loved it. The area south of town is gorgeous and of course the wines and wineries are second to none. http://www.montalcinoitaly.com/8cesira.htm. This is a place I'd definitely go back to.
Porto San Stephano: We decided this would be our stop on the way to the airport. We stayed at the four star Torre di Cala Piccola. Great view but not much else. Rude manager and poor restaurant with very high prices. The town itself was something I'd skip.
Ben Humphrey <email>
Seattle, WA USA 10/11/03
recent trip
Just returned from three great weeks guided entirely by Rick's book. Saw many copies The book being used. While doing the night time walk in Roma and looking around a piazza figuring out where to go next we looked up and saw another couple holding their book up doing the same thing.
This was our second trip the last being five years ago. All B&Bs were great but a few stand out, Oceania in Rome and La Tavolozza in Positano. Celeste and daughter Francesca are a joy and so helpful. The view from the room is like a postcard and came with a balcony. Albergo Firenze a super location. They need a website.
We found Cinque Terre so built up since our last trip, we're glad we saw it before it became so commercial. Also were sad to see the increase in numbers of street pedders selling wares on the ground in the most famous spots. There are simply too many of them.
We would like Rick to expand recomendations for places to stay out in countryside of Tuscany, particularly Chianti area, Greive, Castelina, and Radda. Beauty in that area is breath taking. We saw many agritourismo places but without Rick's input it would be a gamble. We need both agritourismo and B&Bs.
carol pipitone <email>
rochester, ny USA 10/11/03
Cycling/Riomaggiore Roberto Fazioli
1. I would like more info on cycling in the guides;( I realize rick doesn't do the bike thing , so understand this limitation) it was hard to find info on renting a bicycle in Italy , but we did have great bikes from Cicloposse in Pienza. Also there is a shop in Poggibonsi that rents bikes, look left from exiting the rail stazione. There's a big sign over the door "ciclosport." We fond the Affite Camere (private rooms) to be perfectly suited to independent riders. People are willing to store bags for up to 4 or 5 days while we rode.
2. I booked two hotels in Riomaggiore (by mistake!) in early Aug (our trip was in late Sept) and Roberto Fazioli refused to give me credit and also immediately charged the 2 nights to my card, saying he was truly sorry, but he already put it thru. Our room was small with balcony , but OK. The other was Affitcamere "Edi" who had no problem cancelling the request. They also provided me with info on the dive shop with phone # , even tho I was not staying with them. While in Riomaggiore , we stopped in there. They are very helpful and I recommend a stay with them anytime.
Karen Hopkins <email>
Nevada City, CA USA 10/10/03
Albergo Olivedo
I just read a complaint about Laura at the Oliveda in Varenna on Lake Como. After our wonderful experience with her and her lovely little hotel in March 2003 (our favorite place in our two week trip,) I can only assume you caught Laura on a bad day. She was wonderful with us, greeted us by name each time we came in, spoke to other guests in their own languages--I think I heard her speak 5 languages. A party of fellow American guests was there for their seventh year in a row. She was wonderfully responsive before our trip in several e-mails and even took the time to respond to a couple of emails after our return home. I kind of hate to increase her popularity--I want to go back and be able to afford it!--but I had to speak up.
Debbie <email>
Gilmanton, NH USA 10/08/03
Milan Hotel
We spent our last two nights of a 3 week trip at the Hotel Star in Milano...http://www.hotelstar.it/ We wanted a hotel centrally located in Milan, and not too expensive. Hotel Star, about 3 blocks from the Duomo, air conditioning that you control, tv, breakfast, soundproof windows with shutters that almost completely blocked any traffic noise, located on a small alley, and priced at 150-160E was a good find. Although the hotel looks as if it was decorated in the 70's, it had a very nice, new bathroom with a whirlpool tub. Very helpful staff. This hotel is a little more expensive than some of Rick's other recommendations in Milan, but some of his other hotels don't always get good comments on this board.
susanna <email>
san francisco, ca USA 10/05/03
Just Returned!
First, We LOVE Italy! We have been three times since 1999 and Rick's suggestions have made each visit memorable. Our current comments...
Sorrento - As in 1999 the food at Pizzaria Giardinello was amazing! Best time to go is during lunch, when Sorrento closes up for siesta. Then visit Davide Gelato...(the BEST selection anywhere) and enjoy till the shops re-open.
Roma - The best dinner recommendations we had! Since we stayed near the Spanish Steps we visited both Ristorante Il Gabriello and Ristorante alla Rampa. While Gabriello was trendy, great service and good food...Nothing can beat the HUGE antipasti spread or the desserts at alla Rampa...Tiramisu & Semifreddo were the best in Italy.
Florence - Absolutely do not miss Gelateria Carrozze - unbelieveable flavors! Siena - The only ETBD disappointment ever was Hosaria Molino del Grillo - maybe it was because we arrived right before closing time, but the service and the food were lacking...
Venice - We enjoyed our final night dinner at Restaurant al Vagon..great setting and wonderfully fresh seafood stew...ummm.
Milano - With an early flight, we opted to stay at Hotel Cervo for the convenience and were so happy we did! It completely served it's purpose being close to the airport. Not to mention the staff! We left a wallet in the airport shuttle and didn't realize until we got to Paris. Upon returning home, we found that the Hotel Cervo had contacted our work (after finding our business card)and called to advise them they had found our wallet. We received it a few days later..money, credit cards and all directly to our home!
We thought Italy was cleaner than in the past and felt safe at all times...even when my mother-in-law dropped her purse on the vaporetto in Venice, someone helped her off the boat returned her purse and went on their way. Like I said...we LOVE Italy!
D&A
Napa Valley, CA USA 10/04/03
Cinque Terre accommodation
If staying in Cinque Terre you must check out www.cinqueterreproperties.com! They rent apartments with a 2-night minimum stay to vacationers for less than a hotel room. They offer many services with their apartments and have over 15 to choose from, all of which have full kitchens, bathroom, living rooms, dining rooms, some with gardens, etc. It's really a bargain for couples and families and they even pick you up and bring you to the apartment. I highly recommend Cinque Terre Properties!
Patrick Bernstein
Santa Monica, CA USA 10/04/03
Back from Italy
My husband and I just returned from a three-week trip throughout Italy. Thanks to Rick for all the great advice we got from his books. We avoided many long lines and saved precious time thanks to his tips. We also enjoyed eating some of the best gelato at places he recommends. We had wonderful experiences all over Italy, and never felt in danger or had anything stolen. It may have helped that there were always two of us together and most of the time four of us. We kept our bags locked up while in the train stations and used the money belt all the time and had no problems.
My only suggestion for Rick is to expand his section on Tuscany. Siena and Florence are wonderful, but there is so much more to be discovered in Tuscany. Our time in Greve in Chianti was my favorite part of our trip. The countryside was so beautiful and the people so friendly and helpful. I highly recommend exploring the smaller towns and not just hitting the big cities.
Cinque Terre had way more tourist than I expected. We saw many people with Rick's book wandering around. It was beautiful, but getting too touristy for such a small place. We stayed in Vernazza at the L'Eremo Sul Mare, which was a wonderful bed and breakfast. Beware though, it is quite a hike up from the train station toward Corniglia and we were not expecting it to be so difficult to get to. The staff was wonderful, and it wasn't as bad when we didn't have our packs on our backs.
One place that Rick doesn't recommend is Naples, but we had a great time there. The food (and especially the pizza) was excellent; I could eat the mozzarella di buffalo all day. Yes, the town is dirty (so was Rome), but the people were welcoming and the city has many lovely places.
The Amalfi Coast was stunningly beautiful and had fewer tourists than we expected. The Hotel Parsifal in Ravello was definitely one I highly recommend. The staff was fantastic and the views were breathtaking. It was a great place to wrap up our time in Italy.
Kelly
Bothell, WA USA 10/03/03
Spoletto
Spoletto is a wonderful hill town near Assisi and much less touristy. We found a wonderful hotel called Hotel San Lucia that was a restful haven in the middle of a jam packed 2-week tour. The hotel is within the walled city and has renovated rooms, a beautiful courtyard to just "be" and very helpful staff who speak English. They recommended our new favorite restaurant--Torvino where the owner and his wife the cook talk to you like old friends!
Cindy Thomas <email>
Madison, WI USA 10/02/03
Amalfi: Sentierro degli Dei (Path of the gods)
The Sentierro degli Dei is probably the best known walk on the Amalfi coast. One way to do it is to take a nominally 5.5 hr "medium difficulty" hike from Positano to Praiano described in the Lonesome Planet guide to hiking in Italy. That hike includes the Sentierro degli Dei and more. It is the "classic walk" of the Sorrento peninsula, "fine paths clinging to near vertical mountainsides with wide panoramic views and beautiful stands of Italian cypresses." Be forewarned that some of the trail markings are obscure, and there are places to go astray. Ultimately we took several hours more than expected, and could not find the final descending trail segment until some hunters happened by and showed us the way. Start early, and enjoy this glorious landscape. I would not recommend hiking in the reverse direction: the ascending steps go on for too long. Definitely have lunch in Nocelle at the Trattoria Santa Croce. (This hike is not for hot weather).
Gary Chirlin <email>
Derwood, MD USA 10/02/03
Exquisite Bagnoreggio accomodation
Arriving in Bagnoreggio on the 18:30 bus (which does exist!) from Orvieto, we happened upon the most delightful and luxurious of all our accomodations in Italy. Romantica Pucci contains large, artfully and elaborately decorated rooms, each unique (ours with canopy bed). The proprietress, Pucci, daughter of a diplomat, has lived in many lands, knows frightfully many languages including English, and treats her guests like royalty. The included breakfast was the finest of all our primacolazione in Italy. Total price: 65 euro per night. (Dogs are welcome, by the way). e-mail: lacasadipucci@libero.it web: www.hotelromanticapucci.it phone: 0761-792121
Gary Chirlin <email>
Derwood, MD USA 10/02/03
Cinque Terre trail closure
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned that a segment of the Cinque Terre trail currently is closed for maintenance. Throughout our visit there from 9/24 through 9/28/03, the link between Corniglia and Vernazza was closed "until further notice." There was confusion concerning whether the closure applied to upper trails as well as the more popular lower trail #2. The park information desk at Riomaggiore said that the high trails were open. Hiking from Corniglia, we were not stopped from taking a high route on trails 7a and 7 (no on-trail ticket booth exists on 7a in Corniglia). However, upon arrival at the on-trail ticket booth in Vernazza we were told that the high trails also were closed. No one was being allowed to leave Vernazza toward Corniglia regardless of trail. The attendant said that "mines" were being used in the repairs.
Gary Chirlin <email>
Derwood, MD USA 10/02/03
The Last Supper
I have to respectfully disagree with Michael about the "Last Supper". I'm not a religious man, and yet was very moved by the painting (and to think it was in a dining hall). It was wonderful that they only allowed 15 to 20 people in at a time. It was night and day from the crowds in the Sistine Chapel, where the room was completely full.
Gregg Miles <email>
Jacksonville, Fl USA 10/02/03
Sorrento
For a town that's as geared toward tourists as this one, watch out for the siesta in the early afternoon. Almost EVERYTHING closes from about 1:30 until about 4:00 or 4:30, making it impossible to buy things such as a bathing suit, sunblock, towels, etc.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Naples
We found out why nobody stays in Naples – what a pit! Trash and dog crap everywhere. We stayed at Hotel Ginevra. This was the only place we stayed that insisted upon holding one of our passports hostage until we paid for our stay. There was no problem, however, in getting the RS discount with the book and paying in cash.
The Archaeological Museum was amazing, but no air conditioning. The humidity must have been 90% and the temperature kept increasing due to the mass of tour groups, making it very difficult to enjoy the museum.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Siena comments
CASA LAURA – Should be called “Casa Loud”. This may have been the noisiest place we stayed in all Italy. The rooms are on the 2nd floor of a corner building overlooking a busy intersection. This means cars, pedestrians and those ****ing Vespas all day and night. Also, the shower in the bathroom is just a showerhead in the corner of the room with a drain in the center of the room. What are you supposed to do with all the water that ends up getting sprayed all over everything? There is one room (#4) that MIGHT be quiet, as it appears to be on neither one of the outside walls. The breakfast (4 Euro extra, I think) is nothing to write home about. Although Laura is a very sweet woman, I can’t help but think that there is a more deserving hotel/B&B that should be listed in its place in the RS books.
RESTAURANTS: Taverna Di San Giuseppe – We went to this restaurant as recommended by Fodor’s – quite good, if a little pricey. Ciao Self-Service Restaurant, off the campo – not very good. Spizzico fast food place in front of Ciao – truly terrible food. The “salad” was absolutely inedible because the salad dressing tasted like some form of petrochemical waste. Il Verrochio – as recommended in RS book. It was just okay.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Cinque Terre - Vernazza
Be careful getting into the water in Vernazza– the bottom concrete steps are unbelievably slick.
FRANCA MARIA APARTMENTS – We stayed in Apartment 4, a well laid out little place with its own bath. What they don’t tell you is that it’s very loud due to the pedestrians walking and talking right outside your window at all hours of the night. And the acoustics of the room make it sound as if the passersby are right in the room with you. Also, we had occasional sewer odor drifting into our room.
HIKE TO MONTEROSSO – Well worth it, but it is long and fairly difficult. Some dangerous stretches if you’re not careful.
BREAKFAST SPOT – Go to the last bar on the left towards the breakwater to get an oustanding breakfast that you can eat at the tables on the breakwater. Very friendly owner/operator.
LOCAL TRAINS – It’s anybody’s guess when the local trains will come by. The 8:50 train never showed up and the 9:07 didn’t arrive until 9:30. Then we sat for 15 minutes at the very next stop (Manarola). Keep this in mind if you’re making any connections after leaving Cinque Terre.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Trains
Eurostar trains are the nicest but their bathrooms are hit-and-miss: sometimes very nice, sometimes a true pit, with wet floors and no toilet paper. Try not to think about where the waste goes and why it is forbidden to use the restrooms while at the station.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Milan
The Last Supper was a definite disappointment – the “restoration” has left only a few paint flecks on the wall. If you get the audioguide, be sure to understand the instructions on how to make it play in English and start playing it well BEFORE you enter the room with the painting. The long intro is all about the church’s architect (Bramante) and Milanese history.
We stayed at Hotel Charly near the train station. The room was small but very efficiently laid out – like a room on an ocean liner. AC was an extra E10 a day.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Varenna - Lake Como area
Small and very charming and very Italian town near the Alps. (Switzerland is just over one of the mountains, but don’t look for any Swiss chalets here.) We stayed at the Albergo Beretta.
Pros:
1. Tosca who owns the place is a blast – a real Italian character. The location is very convenient to the train station.
2. Their full breakfast is very good (but not included in the daily rate). (Capuccino is just called “capooch” here – go figure.)
3. They kept and heated up for us the next day a pizza that I couldn’t finish at a local restaurant, due to a fierce headache probably from jet lag.
Cons:
1. Although the people who run this place (Tosca and her children) are friendly enough, we had the sinking suspicion that we were being taken. First, they did not have a room with balcony and shared bath available for us as confirmed via email (I had the email with me). Basically they said that because I had made my reservation so far in advance they gave our room to someone with more recent reservations. They said that they did have a room with balcony but it had its own bath and would cost E73 rather than E55. We decided to go ahead and switch. Then, a couple of days later when it was time to pay we were told that their credit card swiper was not working so we would have to pay cash.
2. Despite Rick’s listing of Tosca’s daughters as SE, they don’t really speak English well at all.
3. This location can be NOISY. It’s at a major (for Varenna) intersection. In the early morning (around 6:00) apparently the fishermen in town stop by here on the way to their boats. And they love to discuss (loudly) the news of the day.
4. The shower in the room was VERY small, even by Italian standards. Any “person of size” would have had an extremely difficul time. Also, their hot water heater must be about 3 km away, considering how long it took for the hot water to get hot. Also, the towels you get are more like large thin linen napkins. We got towels like this at a couple of other places we stayed. I don’t understand the appeal. Also, they weren’t changed daily.
Regarding the travel agency next door to the Beretta: Rick’s book needs to be clarified to state that they do NOT accept CC for train tickets. We were following Rick’s advice to get all our tickets here and having to pay all that cash (about E500 made it a little difficult. Luana was VERY helpful and her English is extremely good but they had NO current information on the various train passes available (Flexipass, etc.). I was really surprised. Also, double check each ticket carefully when buying. There were two of us traveling together and one of the tickets she sold us turned out to be for one person only. Fortunately I noticed before we got on the train so I had time to buy another single ticket.
RISTORANTE MONTECODENO: We tried the “Rick Steves Menu” and did NOT care for it. You have to be a REAL seafood fan to want to eat the 57 varieties (give or take) of fish you will get. Also, the restaurant itself had virtually no ambience.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
General comments
1. I’m SOOO glad that I took two Italian classes through the local community college before we went to Italy. It came in much more handy than I expected, in some cases quite critically. Also, we discovered that the most difficult part of speaking Italian isn’t asking or answering a question – it’s understanding the answer to a question you’ve asked.
2. Italian WC’s – You will quickly learn to avoid using the WC's at the smaller train stations – They tend to be “Turkish toilets” which are basically just a toilet seat bolted right onto the floor over a hole. Museum and restaurant toilets tend to be much nicer.
3. It costs 0.77 Euro to send a priority postcard to the US – 0.67 for non-priority. There is a lower rate to send postcards to EU countries. Rick should add this info to all Italy books.
4. Take a washcloth with you if you want one. No place we stayed offered one.
Michael
Seattle, WA USA 10/02/03
Hotels in Italy - reviews
My wife and I went to Venice, Florence, Cinque Terre, Siena, and Rome on our honeymoon in Sept 2003. Here are the hotels where we stayed and what we thought:
Venice: Ca' Morosini. We ended up at this place by accident, becuase our room in Locanda Art Deco was damaged. They put us up in this one for the same rate as Art Deco (€130). I think the bill in the room said it was supposed to be €200 a night. The housekeeper never spoke any english, and was very upset when we spoke english to her. However, the room was beautiful, bathroom was big and had new fixtures, and we had an awesome view of Campo Santo Stefano from our room. This is located near the Accademia bridge. Highly recommended, but not sure what you'd pay for full price. It is run by Hotel Locanda Fiorita. Their website is: http://www.locandafiorita.com/
Florence: Hotel Bretagna. You get what you pay for. This was a bargain hotel, with no real frills. The room was OK, bed was not real comfortable. The bathrooms were quite small with the small shower that just has a curtain so water can spill all over the bathroom floor. Didn’t seem overly clean either. Once thing I can say is that the staff were incredible. Antonio spoke very good English and even gave us advice about the other cities we were going to travel. I would not stay there again. It’s a one star hotel.
Siena: Hotel Duomo. Very nice hotel. More like what we’re used to in North America. The room was nice and big. So was the bathroom. Staff were nice and helpful. I would recommend this hotel. However, it is not cheap! €130 per night! That’s expensive for Siena.
Rome: Hotel Giardino. I can’t say enough good about this place. The room was great. Big bed, remote controlled air conditioning. Good size bathroom with new fixtures. We did have a little treat as well – since it was our honeymoon, they gave us the only room in the hotel with a private patio deck. It was beautiful! The staff were great as well – especially Sergio! He’s a great guy – funny too! It rained while we were in Rome and they even had (brand new) umbrellas for us to take for the day. I would love to stay there again!
Carl <email>
Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada 10/02/03
Sorrento & Amalfi Coast
Our Naples to Sorrento trip was almost ruined when two "porter" tried to help us with our luggage at the Naples Central Train. Fortunately I had read RS's advice and knew there are no porters at the Naples Train Station. The trip improved greatly when we got to our hotel in Sorrento:
La Tonarella has the best sea side views I've ever seen. Most of the post cards we found of Sorrento were photos taken from the hotel's terraces. It was however pretty dusty, needed a fresh coat of paint and a few more smiles. The staff is very aloof. If you reserve a sea view terrace you won't care about the interior's defiencies.
A second saving grace was our Monnetti Taxi Tour. Carmello (the father) is a wonderfully friendly man in love with life...and Sophia Loren. His "cousin" Luigi was terrific. He was our savior when he rescued us from the Italian Blackout: driving us in a rain storm for 2 hours to the Naples Airport. He called ahead to asure that our flight had not been cancelled and stayed with us untill he was sure we could catch a departing flight.
Lastly, I'd like to tip my hat to the great cult of Rick Steve's followers. Everywhere we went we'd see "that RS book." It was a superb way to meet fellow travellers. We spent our last night in Sorrento on our terrace overlooking the Naples Bay with a picnic dinner, a bottle of wine,and a wonderful family we met via "That Book."
Heather Scullin <email>
Westlake, OH USA 10/01/03
Three weeks in Italy
Just returned from three weeks in Italy. Visited Sorrento, Rome, Venice, Florence, Vernazza and Central Tuscany before turning the lights out and returning to the US. We stayed at some so-so hotels and some absolutely fantastic places. Far too much to write in a message but we'd be happy to provide recommendations and ideas for anyone planning a visit to Italy.
James Baudhuin <email>
Milwaukee, WI USA 10/01/03
HELP on Italy point-to-point trains
Loooking for advise please... Do I need to purchase point-to-point tickets with reservations from Rome to Florence ahead of time via internet for travel in late Oct.2003, or can I feel assured and wait without any problems and purchase tickets at train station? First time train traveler but don't want to spend valuable time sitting in train station. What do you suggest? If purchased ahead of time, where should I make this transaction? Thank you in advance for any help you can share with me! Matt E-mail me at i00mbw@fds.com
matt <email>
Palm Beach, FL USA 09/29/03
Hotel Gritti, Milano
We followed rick's advice in Milano and the Hotel Gritti was superb! Friendly at the check in desk, excellent, central location, and pretty easy to get to; Trattoria Bruno was a good suggestion too, the dinner was wonderful!
anthony caliendo
denver, co USA 09/27/03
Il Nido Hotel in Sorrento
We spent three weeks in Italy including a stop in Sorrento. The hospitality at the Il Nido Hotel in Sorrento was fantastic. We arrived late after a harrowing experience that involved getting stuck at the train station in Barro(near Naples) at night - not a good situation. After a $150 taxi ride (with lots of haggling) we arrived at the hotel after 1 am. The manager came out and negotiated with the driver. He then arranged for a late night snack (since we missed dinner). The accomodations were nice and clean and at a reasonable midrange price. The hotel sits high above the town of Sorrento with wonderful views. There is a nice restaurant with delicious local dishes and great views from the terrace. The hotel provides transporation to town on a regular schedule. From the town you can catch buses, trains or boats to wherever you want to go. We had considered staying on the Amalfi Coast but found the Il Nido's location was great for day trips to all the various sights: Pompeii, Amalfi Town, and the islands of Capri and Ischia. We extended our stay an extra night because we enjoyed the area and hotel and staff so much. There is also free internet service, small swimming pool, and a bar.
John
Longmont, CO USA 09/26/03
Rome to Sorrento
Rick should add to his book an alternative source for travel. There is a bus called the Marozzi bus that leaves Rome Tibertina Station and goes to Sorrento Piazza Tasso. Naturally there is a Return bus from Sorrento. We used it last year and plan to use in again this year. It takes 4 hours, but is less than $20, is cheaper and there is no changing trains or stations like taking the trains. We had a good experience taking this bus.
Bruce <email>
USA 09/25/03
Fishnet Internet Cafe in Monterosso al Mare
Just a heads up that The Fishnet Internet Cafe in Monterosso Al Mare will be closing as of October 1st. You can check Kate's website at http://www.fishnet.it for more information.
Tony Faville <email>
Beaverton, OR USA 09/23/03
Italy -- It's All About Food!
P.S. Santa Croce Church -- last resting place of Michelangelo and others is now charging $3 Euros at entrance. That was new for me. Also, the wedding I attended took place at Busa-alla Torre, a FABULOUS restaurant on Murano. It's under the small bell tower at Piazza Santo Stefano. We ate from 12 noon until 5:30 pm with at least nine courses. The food was magnificent. The owner is a big bear of a fellow, very Hemingwayesque, and a kick. I have no idea what the food costs, but it would be worth it no matter what! All seafood for us -- a clam rissotto that was sinful, and so much more. Just had to add that!
Zee <email>
Mendon, VT USA 09/16/03
Just Back from Rome, Florence, & Venice
Just returned (9/14) from "whirlwind" tour -- Rome, Florence, Venice. My sixth trip, my husband's first. I have followed Rick's book every time and have had Many Happy Returns.
In Rome, stayed at "58 Via Cavour" not in your book, a very good B&B, close to Termini, absolutely quiet, great air cond, and terrific bathrooms.
St. Peter in Chains closes for lunch (who knew? I musta missed that one. Yes, go to Palatine Hill for tickets to Coluseum (long lines!).
Had a small problem at Ostaria da Mario over by the Pantheon -- added food items to the bill ($10E) which we did not have. We questioned this and they rewrote the bill, leaving on $5E for water we did not have (tavola was fine with us). My husband had to go into the kitchen and discuss with Mama. Food okay, service not too friendly.
In Florence stayed at Cimatori B&B (on way to Dante's house, next door to AmEx) -- if it's not in the book, it should be --- bravo Dominic! Lovely rooms (only 6) and wonderful breakfast with plenty of Europeans to discuss all sorts of topics. Right in the heart of Florence!
The little restuarant across from AmEx is delightful and the food is great -- good prices, we ate twice.
Recommend early rez for Uffizi and Accademia. Scaffolding already up around David -- the much-debated cleaning to take place soon but it doesn't look like they will cover him all up which is good news for most tourists. Just no good for photographers. I got "slapped" for taking pictures WITHOUT FLASH in the Uffizi -- so the book is now wrong, no pics.
In Venice stay at the Hotel Campiello -- bravo Rick, that's a GREAT little hotel with lovely help and good prices at peak season. The concierge recommended a local restaurant Quarto Feri -- we were the only Americans and the dinner was wonderful. No English on the menu but the lovely owner translated and brought us a sea bass special. Yes, you need reservations -- we had ours for 8 and the place was full by 8:30pm. Also, a little trattoria down the alley from the Devil's Pub was great -- an entire wedding party of 10 and we ate a lot but split the bill by 9 of us (not the bride) and only had to pay $11Eur each. Lots of bar trade at the front. Very local.
DO go to Murano!!! Wonderful little shops and I found great bargains at #100 on the main street (down from the Colonna vap stop). Just $10 E for a beautiful neclace; they will make earrings to match for $5. I dragged the wedding party over and each woman purchased 8 necklaces -- quite the deal!!
I have no idea why they want you at the airport 3 hours early when they don't even open the flight desks until 2 hours before the flight. But, good food in the Venice airport -- freshly made pizza (they throw it right in front of you) and pannini for $2.70Eur. How do they do that? Nice shops in the Venice airport -- but English novels are $11.50 Euros. (Okay, I was looking at an 8 hr flight home with nothing to do and a bad movie). We had the best time. Thank you, Rick for the books -- I knew some of my friends from the Venice wedding were staying in Italy and I tried to give it away -- but they all had their own copies!
Zee <email>
Mendon, VT USA 09/16/03
Credit card fraud via email
I had a fraudulent experience recently (August 2003) making reservations through email for a hotel in Rome and wanted to advise travelers of my experience. I made the reservations and then sent my credit card number via email to the hotel and about 2 weeks later someone in the United States ahd used my credit card number on line to charge merchandise. I don't think it had anything to do with the hotel in Rome. I have Zone Alarm and Norton Anti-Virus on my computer but I think someone hacked into my computer and got the number and used it but luckily the credit card company called me and informed me of the charges before it was too late. I know that when you charge merchandise on line, it's usually a secure line but when you send your credit card number by email, it is not. So be careful and try faxing or call the hotel direct, if possible. I think that would be a safer choice. Have a fun & safe trip!
Nancy froelich <email>
Buellton, CA USA 09/11/03
Thanks for Removing Castiglione
After reading the 8/19/03 USA entry, I feel the need to discourage Rick from thinking about adding back Mike Castiglione into the section on Vernazza. I was there this Spring and had an awful experience with him. Not only did he give away the room we reserved (the one with the view) even after we called him early that morning to confirm; he gave us a different room without a view for more money. We saw him later that day giving away the room he promised us to another couple. It appears he's a savvy businessman, but not trustworthy.
Ann
Washington , DC USA 09/10/03
Needs work
Needs better maps and less costly accomodation options. I was mortified at the prices listed in your book on Italy in comparison to what I found myself.
Nathaneal Baker <email>
Colorado Springs, co USA 09/08/03
Italy in August
I'm still a big fun of "Eyewitness Guides", but telling the truth, I will be definitely carrying two books from now on: "EG" + "RS". Rick made an absolutely terrific source for a tourist! We recently returned from Venice-Florence-Rome tour, and here are my $.02:
Museum prices have inflated ~10-20% from 2003 Rick's book. If you have a reservation, look around the ticket office before announcing it. If there is no crowd, why pay the extra fee?
Another way to skip the line in St. Marco Basilica in Venice: come with backpack (prohibited item), ask where the storage room is (free; 50 yards away), leave your backpack and obtain the badge. This badge will allow you to go in group/reservation entry.
There are no more one-way or family discounts on Venice's vaporetti. The cheapest ticket now is 5 euros for 90 minutes on the Grand Canal. At least some traghettos cost less: 50 c vs. 75c listed in the book.
Hotel Mercurio in Venice is great (no, not in a Rick's book yet).
Be on "Thief Alert" not after leaving the airport upon your arrival, but about 30 minutes before LANDING (trust me!)
Boris V. <email>
Dover, NH USA 09/08/03
Italy 2003
Rick's Italy guidebook was one of the best I've used. To get the sole negative out of the way, I don't understand how he could recommend the Hotel Magic in Rome. A 3rd floor walkup; very cold and rude staff (I had to awaken them at midnite when my key broke in the lock and I couldn't get in and was met with their anger); room very hot; staff kept pestering for payment in cash after having emailed reservation acceptance confirming they'd accept credit cards; a very mediocre breakfast not served daily until 8:30.
I checked out of the Hotel Magic after a sleepless second night and checked into the Hotel Villa del Rose, two blocks away from the Termini. Same room price as the Magic, but much bigger room, great air conditioning, very helpful staff (24 hour desk) and a great breakfast (all you can eat croissants, pastries, meats, cheeses, fruit, pot of coffee) that starts at 7:00 am and lasts until 10 am! Villa delle Rose a real contrast to the Hotel Magic.
The only threats we encountered near Termini in Rome were the metro (very hot and crowded - a bonanza for pickpockets and trains ran about every eight minutes) and the money change office at the Termini (charged 16% "Commission" with bad exchange rates).
Rick was absolutely right on the Trastevere neighborhood and the area around the Spanish Steps, both of which we greatly enjoyed. The Restaurant Sabbatini in Trastevere is great with a wonderful outdoor seating opposite the cathedral.
Nero's Golden House interesting as was the Mamertine Prison (St. Peter was held here) and the Church of St. Peter in Chains.
In Florence, found his recommendation for climbing the tower steps (next to Duomo) far better than climbing the dome itself (far less crowded). Florence great as a city but the termini seemed much more full of layabouts looking for easy pickings.
We greatly enjoyed Venice; beautiful weather, no lines for Doge's Palace, few for San Marco Cathedral. Rick's recommendation for the Locanda Gambero Hotel in Venice was right on: great people, nice room, fine bathroom, hotel just three minutes from San Marco, and very good food at the hotel cafe (Bistro) with a ten percent discount for hotel guests.
We made one big mistake on this trip: we had only one day in Naples and we spent it in Naples AND Pompeii, when we should have gone just to Naples and Sorrento. With limited time, we should have confined our time in Naples to the National Museum (one the finest museums I've been in -- all the best mosaics, statues, etc. are there from Pompeii and Herculaneum) and skipped the wasted travel time to, and visit to Pompeii (by contrast, an archeological site only worth seeing if you have the time; the town didn't seem to have a single taxi and the walking distance to both stations was fairly large). Instead, we should have gone to the National Museum, seen the Pompeii relics, then taken the hydrofoil to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast.
Robin Grover <email>
Alexandria, VA USA 09/07/03
Web reservations for Borghese Gallery
The website listed to reserve for the Borghese Gallery in Rome worked perfectly for us inn both August 2002 and August 2003(see negative comment below). First, you recieve an aknowledgement of your request. If the requested time is not available, you will not recieve a confirmation within the next 24 hours. That's your signal to request another time. Remember, the sooner the better.
Facteau Family
Atlanta, GA USA 09/05/03
Borghese Gallery reservations
We are leaving for Italy in 2 days and I will add info upon our return. I just wanted to mention that the website for making reservations for the Borghese Gallery in Rome (http://www.ticketeria.it/ticketeria/borghese-eng.asp) is totally useless. I requested reservations over a month early. I received one response that they had received my request, but this was not a confirmation. I never received a confirmation, despite 3 follow-up emails. However, I was able to make a telephone reservation easily 5 days in advance.
Mark W. Hill <email>
Atlantic Beach, FL USA 09/01/03
Cinque Terre Paradise
Everything one could imagine about this area is true. We will definitely return to finish the walks and see the views from above the towns. The walks are unbelievable: aqua blue ocean and the rock formations. We were there during the hottest days in 50 years - aprox 95 degrees. We walked the short path Via dell Amore from Riomaggiore to Manarola and thought we would walk the next path to Corniglia. The second walk took aprox 2 hours, it was so hot by then (midday). The views and the walk were worth it but I was glad to reach the end and found a hose of flowing cold water. I nearly drowned myself to cool off. I am 53; my wife is 46.
Hotel: Excellent choice from Rick's book was the Frankamaria Rooms in Vernazza We had #4 room, only 32 steps to the door, and about the lowest room in the town! 78 E /night 10% discount on cash. We paid cash and this enabled us to spend 1 more night!
Food everywhere is excellent, but can be expensive - spending 40E on lunch & 60E (or more) on dinner. We had the 7 day train card and went into La Spezia and found restraunts in side streets near the sea front. We had a large lunch/dinner for 2 persons that cost 20E for all courses, house wine and water.
We rented a car for the return journey, driving first to Parma. We found a village hotel & cheese factory - they are happy to show you around. It's amazing how many cheese they keep stored. They have a special machine that turns and stamps the cheese,it even wipes off the shelf where the cheese sits.
The drive thru the mountains is an experiance; we took the SS62 route rather than the Autostrada. We stayed in Milan Malpensa airport area. I took advice from this site & Rick's book. Hotel Cervo worked out well; it is in a small village near Terminal 1 and is about a 5 min drive. We still had the car and drove the area to see more sights. The hotel in the village has it's own restraunt. Also, go out the gate, turn left, and at the end of the street is the restraunt Samarcanda. They have all types of wine & beer and the food is excellent. There is a free salad bar in the evenings. There is also a small Pan bread shop - which is ideal for taking a loaf home with you. There are many more memories to savor of the Cinque Terre and Italy. Travel light!
Dave Thomas <email>
Parma Heights, OH USA 08/30/03
Hotel Loreley in Sorrento was quite a rip off. Stayed in August 2003 and received a room with view for 110 Euros a night with half pensione (Breakfast +1 meal) The room we stayed in was really hot and I had to ask the reluctant management for the one portable fan they had. Each day they looked unhappy that I had it. Further, the bathroom was something out of Alcatraz. The doors of the shower were coming off, there was no phone in the room, and meals are just OK at best. Also, management informed me that drinks were allowed with half pensione but then tried to charge me for them when I left. Overall, this place should be avoided, expecially for the price. Not worth it. Sorrento is beautiful, but not the Hotel Loreley.
M. N. <email>
Eastchester, NY USA 08/28/03
Monterosso al Mare, Italy
I just returned from 10 days in Monterosso al Mare (Cinque Terre), Italy. Lucky for me, I was able to find places to stay, although I had to change hotels a couple times because, as previous reviewers noted, August is Italy's busiest month for tourism, as it is the time when most Italians are on vacation. I want to make a few comments about the hotels in which I stayed.
1) HOTEL MORETTO - located in Old Town, close to the beach, but techincally in an alley, so does not have ocean views. I paid 85 Euro/night for a single and was not dissapointed. The room had A/C, a television with cable (so I could catch CNN World), a large bed (equivalent to a double), an excellent breakfast (included with room - "half board"), and a friendly, helpful staff. The only downside was that the maid service started very early (usually around 8 am- and for some reason, seemed to be camped outside my room-- #52, for future reference.) I saw this hotel listed as 2-star in various sites and books, but compared to others I tried, I would list it closer to 3-star.
2) HOTEL CINQUE TERRE- this one is located in the New Town, fairly close to the beach (about 50 meters up Via IV Novembre). My advice: AVOID IT AT ALL COSTS. It is advertised as a 4-star hotel, and cost me 110 Euro/night (30 more/night than Hotel Moteretto), but it was a disaster. I was stuck in a claustrophopic attic room (literally- a full grown man could not have stood up completely without hitting his head on the slanting ceiling) with no A/C during the hottest summer on European record in 200+ years. There was not even a window, only a small "moon roof" that opened about 4 inches and kept ventilation to a bare minimum. MISERABLE. The bed (a twin size was also quite uncomfortable), there was no tv, which was surprising given the price. There is a 1 am curfew at this hotel, so if you plan to go to a pub or sit on the beach and look at the stars, better be back in your room by 1 or you'll get locked out. Most egregious, however, was the fact that despite an assurance to the contrary, I was required to pay cash (as opposed to credit card) upon checkout. The one reedeming factor, the good breakfasts, did not make up for the shoddy service and the overall unpleasantness of the room. It was more like a hostel experience than the 4-star they make claim to. TRAVELERS BE WARY!
3) HOTEL VILLA STENO- in Old Town, at the top of the hill. I know Rick Steves has mentioned this hotel in various editions of his books, but I am compelled to add my praise. This place was excellent in every way. The room, for which I paid 85 Euro/night for a single, was clean, comfortable, and roomy by European standards. It had A/C, a tv with cable, a beautiful bathroom (that looked recently remodeled), and most happily, a private balcony from which I could see the sea. (Evidently all the rooms have them.) The staff also was wonderful-- not just helpful, but friendly. There is a convenient bar/mini restaurant in the hotel where you can order coffees, drinks, brushetta, etc. until 11 pm and take to your room. The hotel is charming and utterly comfortable in every way. I was sad to leave. I have seen Villa Steno labeled as 3-star in various web sites and books, but don't let that fool you, only the prices are less than 4-star. This place is a jewel, and I hope they keep it as is!
As for restaurants, my best experiences in Monterosso were at Ristorate Belvedere and Al Pozzo, both in Old Town. Both serve excellent Riso de Mare (basically an Italian paella) and have wonderful service and a great wine list.
Cynthia <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 08/27/03
If you want a small town feel on a "big world island" go and stay at Tirrenia Robers B+B on Capri. I stayed there with my sister in May and had 3 wonderful days. Unfortunately I left behind a favorite pair of comfy shoes. After calling Constantino he graciously suggested he would "send them along to Rome" with a family member or friend. Sure enough I got them back and discovered another area of Rome while meeting up with his friend. The world is truly small and people are wonderful. E-mail Tirrenia Roberts at bbtirreniaroberts@iol.it or check out the website at www.capri.net/home/en/card.php?type=hotel&cod=184
USA 08/19/03
This spring I stayed in a very nice room in Vernazza that was listed in Rick's 2001 Italy book but not in his later books. It's owned by Mike & Franca Castiglione, a very nice old couple who speak English well. Their one room is clean, roomy and even includes a kitchenette. Best of all Mike gave me a key to a private garden-patio a few steps away with the best view of the ocean outside Santorini- very romantic. I don't know why Rick took this listing out of his books; it seems unfair to his readers to withhold information on a gem like this. The Castigliones don't have a website, but their # is 0187-812-374. I booked in March and it was no problem reserving the place for 3 nights in June. Warning: before getting a room anywhere in Cinque Terre, make sure it isn't too close to a train station; the furniture-rattling express trains roar through the towns at all hours of the night, so be prepared! (They're building noise walls in some towns but I don't know when they'll be done.) The Castiglione's was one of the farthest from the station, and the noise still woke me up often. P.S. When making the hike from Vernazza to Corniglia, bring some cat food; there's a picnic table where some sweet and very hungry momma cats hang out, trying to beg a meal for their babies!
Dave <email>
Manassas, VA USA 08/11/03
I bought Rick Steves italy Guidebook 2003 because Rick listed some places that I couldn't read about in other guidebooks. Two places that I went to thanks to Rick were Bolzano & Civita de Bagnoregio, and they were amazing! Rick may have gone there by car but I went by bus, which is not easy...scarce places, scarce buses & Italians are not keen on speaking English!. Thanks, Rick for letting me discover these 2 places. In fact, some sites listed Rick Steves as introducing Civita to the world! Amazing eh?
I also went to a nudist beach in Cinque Terre. It's a private beach so I had to pay the fees. I was holding Rick's Italy guidebook & the owner saw it & asked me where I am from. I said "Malaysia." He then said that Rick Steves is a famous guy! He was so happy because I told him that I discovered his beach from Rick's guidebook, that he gave me a 10% discount off the fees.
Anuar <email>
Kuala Lumpur, KL Malaysia 07/27/03
Going to Sorrento from Napoli
My wife and I are still in the midst of five weeks in UK, France and (saved the best for last) Italy. Loving all of it and the great help and support from ETBD. One comment suggestion ... TAKE A TAXI if you're going from Napoli train station to the boat (hydrofoil) to Sorrento. For my wife and I it was a miserable experience since we had spent the night (not) sleeping in a couchette with minimal AC from Paris to Rome. Temperatures were well into the 90's and from the book it appeared to be an easy jaunt. Since we were at the limit of physical exhaustion and newly being introduced to the severity of the Italian weather in JULY. A few Euros for a Taxi would have been money well spent. Sorrento was delightful and well worth the 27 hours of restless travel. Took a day or two to recover ... an ideal place to recoup :)
Ken Schwarz <email>
Dallas, TX USA 07/26/03
Rick Steve's Italy
We just returned from a 2 week trip to Venice, Florence and Rome. We had a fabulous time and used Rick's individual books on each of these cities for our tours of the major sights. The pictures in the book helped to keep our tour through the sight on course. Great information on the sights and tips on when and where to get tickets. We stayed at Hotel Campiello in Venice and thought it was great. The location was fabulous, close to a vaporetto stop, and a 5 minute walk to San Marco Square. The room was great as well as the breakfast provided. It included granola, yogurt, pastries, fruit, cheese, ham, orange juice and cookies. It was a pleasant way to start our day. The owners are helpful and very gracious. Terrific place to stay! We would go back.
In Florence we stayed at Rick's suggestion of Hotel Pedini. What a central location! We could walk everywhere. It was in Florence where we had our favorite dinner. It was at Paolos. It was recommended by Rick and the hotel. The salad that they make at your table was divine.
In Rome we ate at Ristorante Alla Rampa which is also in Rick's book. Follow his instructions and get there early as it gets crowded. The one thing Rick did not mention was the Antipasta Buffet which was fabulous and a meal in itself. When the waiter saw the book and was showed that they were recommended in the book they took the book and showed it to all the others that worked there including the manager. It was fun. Lastly, we really enjoyed the tour of Nero's Golden Palace. We found it very interesting and the tour guide we had was an archeologist so she had a lot of interesting information to add to the tour. (Rick, we did have a little trouble finding some of the restaurants in Rome, especially Osteria da Mario.)Rick,thank you for making our trip easy, enjoyable and stress free.
Elaine Joice <email>
San Jose, CA USA 07/26/03
I want to warn people that if they are interested in visiting Civita de Bagnoregio do it in the next few years. We visited the place in July 2003 and it was obvious that they are gearing up for tourism. There are now at least three places to eat. Outside the bar is one of those very bright and colourful signs that advertises various ice cream concoctions. It's days as a throwback to old Italy are numbered.
Raul Lithgo <email>
Seattle, WA USA 07/23/03
Milan, Pisa, Siena
General notes: 1) for the Canadians tourists: prepare to be stopped at the Italian boarder and asked to fill out the questioner about the following: names, addresses and phone numbers of the hotels you are going to stay for the nearest 2 weeks, so you’d better have this info handy when you get off the plane in Italy. Then you’ll be lectured about SARS danger regardless of the province you came from. Don’t get frustrated (like I did) - they just do their job! 2) When I asked my Italian teacher how to say “tap water” in Italian, he was totally shocked. He said that no Italian would drink tap water, especially in Florence, as all Italian rivers are very polluted. So, he said, it’s better to buy mineral water at the supermarket (0.40-0.60 € per 2 litre bottle) than drink tap water. We did just that. The only city where we could find drinkable non-mineral water was Rome - there are lots of drinking fountains with the cold tasty water. In other cities I tried tap water (just for the experience and would not recommend it to anybody)
MILAN. We stayed at the Hotel Speronari - the worst hole I’ve ever seen in my life: there are only 2 good things about it - friendly and helpful staff and the proximity to the Duomo (just around the corner). Other than that it was an absolutely horrible experience: first, you have to climb about 4-6 flights of very steep stairs (after the whole day of walking it’s not fun!), then, when you are finally in your room you’ll see that it’s very shabby furnished, and has a view to the somebody’s toilet. There’s no fridge in the room, so you cannot even have a sip of cold water in the stuffy air at night (no air-conditioning, and you cannot open the window because of the mosquitoes just waiting outside to get you (so many mosquitoes as in Milan I’ve never seen in any other Italian cities, don’t even think about going out without putting some protection - lotion/cream/spray - on). At night there were some young people smoking in the lobby, so when we climbed our stairs we couldn’t breath as the smoke rose right up to the roof. Finally, early in the morning when we were leaving, we came down the stairs just to find a snoring young guy sleeping right on the floor in the lobby only in his underwear, obviously after a very wild night! And this 1-star hotel is not cheap - 82.00 €/night for Db room (if you pay cash, if CC - 88.00 €).
“Ciao” self-service cafeterias were very bad on the both sides of the Duomo: the food was as cold as the service. But there’s a good one on Via Dante - look for the sign “Autogrill” on your left while you walk towards the old castle with the fountain, you will not be disappointed.
PISA There is a baggage check at Pisa’s train station, so you do not have to waste half of your day doing side trip there. Just stop on your way to/from Florence, check your luggage in, and walk straight (literally) to the leaning tower (2 hours are enough for the whole thing). We ate at Self-Service cafeteria (on your left when you leave the Tower): on the second floor - no tourists there, cool and nice, prices are as everywhere, food was very good.
SIENA. We arrived at Siena early Wednesday morning (8.00 a.m.) - the market was already bubbling. You can do great shopping there - 5.00 € for a very nice tablecloth! Just try to come earlier, by 10:00 a.m. it was absolutely packed with locals, we couldn’t move through! We stayed at Alma Domus. It’s true, that the nuns do not speak English, but there are two guys - one works in the afternoon there, the other one - at night, who speak and write absolutely perfect English. The place is magic - for only 55.00 €/night for Db (not 59.00 as per Rick’s book) you’ll have the best view ever! We did have a double bed in the room; there was air-cond. and a balcony where you can hang your clothes/towels out). No fridge though. The place has an elevator (good for the heavy packers or just tired tourists). If you are planning to buy some Deruta ceramics don’t go to the city Deruta - you can buy perfect Deruta ceramics (all possible paterns) in Siena. Just pay attention to the signature at the bottom - there’s quite a bit of scam out there. The best gelato experience was at Gelateria Kopa Kabana - Via dei Rossi 52/54 (goes off the Via di Citta - main tourist drag). Take Tiramisu mousse there - you’ll get a cup of something absolutely fantastic mixed with the cookies soaked in rum! If you do not try it consider your trip to Siena a total failure!
Corinne Vasilyev <email>
Vancouver, BC Canada 07/21/03
The internet access in Stresa is called New Data, and is about 50 meteres down a street off the main square. It is open on Sunday now, after 3:00. Also, be sure to book a day in advance to get the bus to Malpensa. I didn't, but a great receptionist at Hotel Milan Speranza saved the day.
Gini <email>
Grand Ledge, MI USA 07/20/03
Having done Europe in many different ways, tours - solo - long - short even lived there, I must say Rick Steves' books, TV, tips and this website are the best things going. Very accurate, honest and extremely helpful. Thanks
D
FL USA 07/19/03
My 18 year old son and I just returned from 3 weeks in Italy with a stopover in London on the way home. We had a wonderful time staying mostly in hostels, but PLEASE do NOT send anyone to Soggiorno Magliani in Florence in the future. In spite of booking fairly far in advance, they gave us a very small room right on the street, right over the garbage bins that were emptied at 5 am. Keeping the double-paned windows closed cut the noise, but the temperatures were well into the 90's, and there was virtually no ventilation--we were told we had to keep the shutters locked at night to make sure thieves didn't climb up into the window. We had to keep our room door open to the hallway at night, which seemed a but uncomfortable. I asked for a fan the first night, when I woke up at 11:30 stifling. When we went to check out, they wanted to charge me 5 euros a night for it, but hadn't said anything before about a charge for it. We could lock the room, but had to leave the key on a hook in the hall-- so there seemed little point in locking it.
In Rome, the Beehive was great, and Ostello 5terre in Manarola was very good even though the 10am to 5pm lockout was not ideal. The terrace was a wonderful place to sit and chat and make friends there. Ostello de Sirene in Sorrento was friendly but extremely cramped. The Eden hotel listed in Naples is completely closed. We went around the corner and found a decent double for 50 euros with a bathroom. All in all the Italy book was a good basic item for us, and evidently for many others judging from the numbers of folks who recognized the cover.
Anna Kruse <email>
Marysville, WA USA 07/16/03
Varenna, Lake Como Hotels
I would like to add a comment for any travellers to Varenna, after reading a complaint about Albergo Olivedo. We stayed at the Albergo Milano last fall and were very pleased, with the hospitality, the optional dinner and most of all, the Lake Como views from the terraces. It was located in a very quiet area. We recommend it.
Donna Moore <email>
Pittsburgh, PA USA 07/15/03
Cinque Terre
We stayed at Albergo Barbara and had a GREAT room overlooking the harbor square action and the lovely Cinque Terre coast. Even though we enjoyed staying there, it was sometimes almost too full of Americans in Vernazza. Rick's readers definitely all take his advice and stay there. It is tough to find a place there unless you book early because of this. If you don't mind that many fellow Rick readers surrounding you (at least 10 people at any restaurant in Vernazza at any given time. . .I promise), then stay in Vernazza. I think that it was the prettiest and the most charming. But Corniglia was enjoyable also. Just keep in mind that it really doesn't matter where you stay in the CT, because you should visit all the towns anyway and they are each only a short train ride away. With regards to the hike I would suggest starting in Vernazza and working your way back towards Riommaggiore. This way, you do the hardest part first (Vernazza-Corniglia) and you get to end with the easy stuff (Via Dell Amore). Look through the shops in Corniglia if you enjoy shopping. I got a great handmade outfit for a great price and it is really unique. Have fun. Eat lots of pesto and nocci sauce on your ravioli.
Amanda
Seattle, USA 07/12/03
Sorrento fabulous hotel
The most fabulous hotel we stayed in our 2+ weeks in Italy and Monaco was Hotel La Badia on Via Capo in Sorrento. It is a 17th century villa, on the cliff, with a pool. Our room was the best in the hotel, and looked like a castle. Absolutely loved this place, and I can be hard to please when traveling!
Erica
North Richland Hills, TX USA 07/11/03
albergo Olivedo,Varenna, italy(lake como)
We stayed in Varenna this past June and want to thank you for your advice to use Varenna as a home base for visiting Lake Como.Not only does Varenna have a lot to offer, but it is also convenient for visiting other parts of the lake. We stayed at Albergo Olivedo (recommended by you)and unfortunately had and unpleasant experience with Laura, the proprietor, when she would not honor the terms of the confirmation she had faxed to us. We had arranged to stay 3 nights for 150 Euros per night. Laura faxed us that she had promised our room to another party for the 3rd night , but for that night we could move to another room for which she would charge us 130 Euros. We agreed to accept the confirmation on that basis When we went to pay our bill on the last night, she insisted we pay 150 Euros. We showed Laura the fax but she insisted loudly that it was an error and if we didn't pay it we could leave. We finally did pay the 150 Euros to quiet her down. The room was not as nice as the first one. The room was smaller, one window faced a noisy outside area,and the airconditioner was inoperative ( this was during a heat wave). Later Laura knocked at our door and asked to see our copy of the fax again,only to insist once more that she had made a mistake Her attitude was very nasty. With the uncertainy about "mistakes" being made and the resulting unpleasantness, we cannot recommend the Albergo Olivedo
Sarah and Israel Chester <email>
New York, ny USA 07/10/03
Castelrotto and the Dolomites
We spent four nights at the Hotel Cavallino D'Oro in the lovely town of Castelrotto in the Dolomites, both being Rick's recommendations. Thank goodness! We wish we could have stayed there a month. A great deal at less than $100 a night. We almost never do this, but we ate dinner in the hotel's restaurant each night because the food was excellent and reasonably priced (especially the daily special fixed menu) with good service. The town itself is compact with some nice shops, quite pretty, and the surrounding mountains were cool and beautiful in late June. We suggest side trips to the towns of Ortisei and Bolzano, as well as Compatsch, Passo Pordoi, Carezza, and Lago de Braies for great hiking and views.
Les <email>
Miami, FL USA 07/09/03
Levanto & the Cinque Terre
I visit every year the Cinque Terre, choosing every time a different town. Last June I was in Levanto as per Rick's message board suggestion I stayed at the Villa Margherita B&B(www.villamargherita.net): simply worthy! Nice old villa with large and bright rooms, with private bath; good service (the friendly atmosphere created by the owner Federico is really magic). For just 90 Euro you can have a nice accommodation (but reserve far in advance) and Federico offers you also a ride to the station! This could be a valuable alternative solution to the all other tourist-invaded villages of the area. Try it!
Natasha Sharabina
New York, NY USA 07/09/03
Lucca and the Cinque Terre
Absolutly loved it! We arrived in Lucca after a day trip to Pizza. It was rainning but that did not detract from the beauty of the drive around the wall of the inner city. We entered by the south-western gate (I can,t remember it's name) and almost immediatly found "Le Violettes". This is to my mind one of the best travel values anywhere. It is a BnB run by two of the nicest ladies you could want to meet in all of Europe. The service that we recieved was truly "OUTSTANDING". And at a price that made my pocket happy. If going to Lucca you will want to look this one up. Lucca is much more "real Italian" than most of the rest of Italy that we visited. (I must admitt that we only saw Pizza to Lake Como and points between.) The "5 Terre" was almost as good as Rick says, BUT, we were there in April so the tourists were not. Even so, accomodations where not so easy to find and "Everyone" knows and carries Ricks guide books. The wine was good as was the food. When travelling to "The 5 Earths" don't miss the wine in Carrera/ Massa. The "Cantinna De Lunae" red is both cheap and not just good but GREAT. To sum up, HAD A BALL! Loved it. Rick was right. However, Rick, Gimmelwald was closed. The walk from the funicular to Murren and Gimmelwald was worth the trip. So I am glad I made it. Al
Al Wainwrtight
Courtenay , BC Canada 07/05/03
Siena/San G.
I agree with Sandra from California's post re: Siena. Without a car and if you're not spending some serious time in Tuscany, day trip it from Florence. The major sights can be easily done in a day with time to spare. As for San Giminano - now this is a tourist trap. It's pretty, but much of the old-world feeling is overwhelmed by the countless shops on the main drag. If you have a car and can easily get in and out, see it quickly and be on your way. By public transport, however, your time might be better spent elsewhere.
Ross <email>
Chicago, IL USA 07/03/03
hotel recommendations
I planned my entire trip with you book. It was my first trip ever abroad.
I came home completely satisfied with every tip. Hotel Fasce in Santa Margherita
was good. Palazzao Ravizzio in Siena was excellent. The staff went out of
their to help me. Also, they had a computer in the lobby with unlimited
internet access for guests. Hotel alla Salute in Venice was a little hard
to feel comfortable in due to the somewhat crusty owner, but no major complaints.
Clean, safe, etc., just not very warm. Hotel du Lac in Varenna was a splurge
and the best accommodation of my trip. I had a lovley little balcony that
looked right out on the lake. They also had internet access for guests.
Chateau Beuaregard in Chamonix was an especially welcome respite from all
the commotion of Venice and Manu and Laurence are very genuine people who
offer a sincere hospitality.
Nancy Carter <email>
Parma , ID USA 06/30/03
Parma if you love food!
For people who love food, Parma is an absolute must. This is the part of
Italy where Parmigiano Reggiano and prosciutto were born. Modena, just down
the autostrada, is the birthplace of balsamic vinegar. We spent 5 weeks
in Italy eating fabulous food, but La Greppia in Parma was our favorite.
A splurge but worth it. The food was unbelievable, the service and professional,
knowledgeable, and they made us feel like every choice we made was perfect.
It's a meal we'll relive for years to come. Plus, Parma is a nice university
town so there are lots of good student type places to grab pizza, panini,
etc. If you're heading south from Milano, Parma is a great place to stop
on the way to Firenze or other points south. Very non-touristy and small
enough to get around on foot easily.
Donna
Seattle, USA 06/29/03
Robbed in Venice by Ca' D' Oro Hotel
Avoid this hotel. We were charged for a night we did not stay at the Ca'
D' Oro Hotel. Our travel agent sent a fax to the hotel showing the original
fax they had sent the hotel, with the "Status OK" indication, which proved
that our arrival date was correct. The hotel manager insisted it was a forgery
by the travel agency and charged us for the unused night anyway.
Gustavo Calleja <email>
Coral Gables, FL USA 06/29/03
Florence and Fiesole
The city of the Renaissance is back! I just got back from Tuscany and oh
my god I miss it already. The highlights included a visit to Fiesole and
the Etruscan Amphitheatre which is 300 years older than the Colosseum in
Rome!!! There was a classical music concert and I just almost fainted with
excitement... Florence was kinda quiet as many Americans have decided to
stay at home which means that I had a great time all by myself, no queues,
no jostling on the buses and best of all cheap hotel rates! I found the
Hotel Rex (on the internet by typing hotel florence) and it said "cheap
but quality accommodation" they were right for once. The hotel is a 3 star
located very near the street market of San Lorenzo (dont buy any of the
leather here as alot of it is fake and just sprayed with leather smelling
perfume) and only 300 metres from the Duomo. best of all is the price — ONLY 70 euro a night — i thought they had to be kidding me!!!! anyway i
suggest you book on line like I did: the website is: www.hotelrexflorence.com
Samantha Simpson <email>
new york, USA 06/27/03
Italy v Wales Accommodation Milan
I have just organised my accommodation for the Italy v Wales Football Match
at the Stadio San Siro in Milan on 6 September 2003. The Hotel Accademia
Milan which is only 10 minutes from the San Siro has an offer on at the
moment just for this match... 110 euro per Double or Twin Room!!!! Book
now while rooms last (I did LOL) their website is www.antareshotels.com
David Jones <email>
Cardiff, USA 06/27/03
Rome and Ventotene
I recently returned on June 24 from a fantastic trip to Rome... It was absolutely
baking (average temperature 32C) so we needed an air conditioned hotel.
We checked out of our cheap Pensione and moved to the Montecarlo Hotel Rome
http://www.hotelmontecarlorome.com/ which was fab and only 99 euro a night
per room. At the weekend we decided to do as the Romans do and flee the
city. We left for a wee island called Ventotene which is absolutely beautiful.
The reception staff at the Montecarlo were instrumental in organising our
trip as it involved getting a train to Formia (1 hour from Rome) and then
the 11 o'clock ferry to Ventotene (journey time 2 hours) the island is a
volcanic creation which is surrounded by some of the cleanest waters i have
ever seen. Highlights include a Roman Port, Julia's Baths (the emperor Augustus
exiled his own daughter in order to stop her promiscuous ways), a 300 year
old prison on top of a sheer rock(make Alcatraz look like a holiday camp)
and some great grottos, underwater caves. There are also some absolutely
brilliant dishes which are indigenious just to the island of Ventotene and
the surrounding waters. Try the Cicala (100 euro for 2 people) a cross between
lobster and prawn but tastier — order it at lunchtime for the evening as
they sell like hotcakes. Also a must try is the islands own form of Rocket
or Rucola — it is much smaller than the stuff you get in Rome but boy is
it tastier, it is actually even a wee bit spicy!!!! mmmm cant wait to go
back. Oh and finally we stayed at the Belvedere on Ventotene which is absolutely
brilliant — you can have breakfast al fresco and in the evening enjoy an
aperitif with the seagulls and watch the sun go down while you wait on your
partner to get ready..... gee what are they like! no website or number for
the belvedere — sorry.
David Ling <email>
Edinburgh, UK 06/27/03
Riomaggiore & Siena
We returned last week from 4 nights in Riomaggiore and 3 in Siena. We stayed
in a room booked through Mar Mar (Manuela — a charming studio with kitchenette
and views to the harbor and sea). Due to the French rail strike we arrived
at 11:30 pm and called ahead to let them know. Amy, in their office, who
is a native English speaker, was wonderful and arranged for Alberto to meet
us at Bar Central when we arrived. Throughout our 4 night stay they were
most helpful and always greated us by name when we met on the street, etc.
We choose Riomaggiore based on availability when I booked the rooms (via
e-mail, no photo's available) and after walking through all the other 4
villages we were more than pleased. Riomaggiore has a charm and sense of
community that we prefered to the other villages. We found after walking
up many, many steep steps, that only having one, small rolling suitcase
prooved invaluable. While there are several restaurants in town, we prefered
picking up some focaccia and local fish prepared to order and "to go" from
the "deli" (down two steps, on the right side of the "uphill" side of the
street)and eating in the harbor. All in all, Riomaggiore and the Cinque
Terre was a great vacation stop. One more Italy recommendation: In Siena
we stayed at a Bed & Breakfast, Palazzo Bruchi. (e-mail: masignani@hotmail.com,
www.ilgiardino-masignani.it) It's inside the city walls, 2 blocks from Il
Campo. Maria, the owner has taken care in restoring and decorating her "family
home" complete with 15' frescoed ceilings, large rooms and modern baths.
Rates are less than or similar to the other hotels in town. We found many
small restaurants in the immediate area and an internet cafe across the
street. She also has parking available if one is adventurous enough to drive
in town! We rented a scooter from a place recommended by the tourist information
center and spent two days riding through the hills of the Chianti and Tuscany
region. I would be happy to answer any questions via e-mail.
Julie FitzWater <email>
Laguna Niguel, CA USA 06/27/03
June Italy trip
My husband and I just came back from a trip to Italy and Switzerland. Thanks
to Rick for his tips, we used Italy 2003 and Rome 2003. We stayed in hotels
recommended by Rick: Oceania in Rome, Bellettini in Florence, San Geremia
in Venice, Speronari in Milan, Alpina in Murren, Switzerland and Tourist
Hotel in Luzern. We wore money belts all the time and used bus # 64 quite
a few times in Rome as well as the Metro. We even did walk in Naples to
go to Cappella San Severo and again to the Pizzaria De Michele. We did not
feel "unsafe" at all. We were careful all the time but did not feel unsafe
even around 11 PM. All the hotels were great, specially Bellettini in Florence.
Italian Eurostar trains were very good, fortunately for us every train was
on time. Hotel Alpina in Murren has the best sight of Eiger, Monk and Jungfrau.
Ask for room # 11, 21 or 31 and you get two balconies as those are the rooms
on the corner. Will go back there again. Once again our sincere thanks to
Rick for making things smooth for travellers.
santra <email>
brookline, MA USA 06/26/03
Italy
I just returned from 11 days in Italy and have some observations and comments
to share. In Venice, the Hotel Hesperia — near the railroad station across
from the Old Jewish Ghetto — is very nice. Only two stars, it is clean,
air-conditioned (much appreciated as Venice was very hot and humid) and
the staff was friendly. In San Margherita Leguria, Hotel Nuovo Riviera was
comfortable and convenient and very reasonable in price. Beware of Ristorante
La Darsena in the harbor area. The view is great but the service terrible,
the prices inflated and the food only average. I highly recommend the Hotel
IL NIDO in Sorrento. The view from some of rooms with balconies is incomparable
as is the view from the dining room balcony. The dining room serves excellent
food and wine at prices well below anything I saw in all of Italy. Homemade
and delicious. The Hotel is clean and very affordable and the staff (Gianni
and Nino) are very helpful. It's about 10 minutes from the center of town
but they have free shuttle service back and forth from the hotel. In Rome,
the Hotel Lugano is centrally located but overpriced. The staff prefers
to watch TV while they answer your questions with a shrug. You can do better
elsewhere. The advertised air conditioned rooms were more like saunas.
S. Glaser <email>
columbus, oh USA 06/26/03
Looking for info on San Remo
I live in Vicenza, Italy, and I'm planning on taking the wife to San Remo
for the Fourth of July holiday. Does anyone have any information/tips/advice
for this place? Info on the net is scarce...
Rik Thibodeau <email>
Vicenza, IT 06/24/03
Venice water taxi map
It would hvae been very helpful to have a map of the water taxis in your
Venice guidebook. I kept expecting to find it on the inside or back cover!
C. Smith <email>
Mtn. View, CA USA 06/24/03
Tips for travel with teens
We learned one valuable lesson on our trip to Italy on the dates of 4-18/6/03...Book
air-conditioned pensiones or hotels if you plan a trip in any "summer" month!
Italy was experiencing a heatwave (early this year according to the locals)and
the kids were miserable and complaining the whole time. It was 100 degrees
F. the 2 days we were in Rome (and over 90 in the other cities) and would
have really had problems if we had not been in an air-conditioned hotel.
If you are traveling with kids (We had our 16 yr. old daugthter and 18 yr
old son.)or have any health problems that limit your tolerence to heat you
need air conditioning. By far our favorite stop was Varenna (even our son
who had a bad attitude about almost everything). We stayed in a 2 bedroom
apartment owned by the Hotel Milano and it was wonderful. No view but quiet
and afforded all four of us some privacy. We also stayed in an apartment
at the Nuova Riveria in Santa Margherita Ligure. The best thing to do when
traveling with teens is to let them go out on their own and do what they
want. Ours are very responsible and really look out for one another. We
felt very comfortable with doing this in every city we visited except Milano
which was our first stop. So what if they want to sleep in instead of going
to see "David" or the Uffizi in Florence. They will be much easier to get
along with in the end. After hearing how much they missed in Florence, they
both were eager to go the the Vatican museums, the Colosseum, and the Roman
Forum in Rome! By the way, I loved the Albergo Guerrato in Venice and that
Piero is really friendly and helpful! We opted for hotels not mentioned
in Rick's books in Florence (Hotel Europa) and in Rome (Hotel Dolimiti).
Both were safe, clean, and conveniently located and Air- conditioned! Also,
the tips in Rick's books about the pizza rusticas and the tavola caldos
were wonderful for us. They were everywhere and inexpensive. Our teens were
happy when they found a Burger King in Venice and the McDonalds in Florence
(down the block from our hotel) and in Rome (across from the Termini). I
want to comment on the problems others on this site had about pickpockets.
We did not see any . We took the normal precautions we take when traveling
in the states and did not wear the money belts I ordered from ETBD because
it was simply too hot! We preached to the kids about staying alert to what
was going on around them at all times and my husband and I did the same.
We used the #64 bus on several occations and also the metro when in Rome.
We walked everywhere in Milano, Lucca, Florence, Rome and never, never felt
unsafe, threatened or "stalked". My husband and I will go back to Italy
as soon as we can,(in April or May) but leave the kids at home. Sorry to
be so long winded but I feel these were important comments that I did not
get prior to our trip. One more tip about Rome. Tryu the water out of the
many drinking fountains around the city. The water is very cold, clear and
tastes good when the temperatures are soaring. Best of all ... its free.
Jerri Arney-Loomis <email>
Houston, Tx USA 06/24/03
Comments on Rome, Milan
We just returned from a fabulous trip to Italy. We had a great time, thanks
to all of Rick's tips. Our only disappointment was our hotel in Milan, Antica
Locanda dei Mercanti. We flew into Milan and were looking forward to a shower
after the long flight. Unfortunatley we did not have hot water the entire
time we were there. We told the folks who run the place but they didn't
believe us, they said it was "Impossible!" I would spend my money somewhere
else next time. We loved Rick's recommendation for a wine bar in Rome, Monti
D.O.C. Vineria Wine Bar. It was one of our favorite meals! Overall, the
only bad meals we had were when we didn't take Rick's advice and just picked
a restaurant at random. Can't wait for our next visit!
Jodi <email>
Portland, OR USA 06/24/03
It's the little things!!
My husband and I traveled for one month all thru Italy, and then 5 days
in France as an afterthought. All we used as our guide was Rick's Italy
book and it was all we needed. Exept for some very important things to know
and have with you while traveling in Italy and France! Always carry restaurant
type napkins in your pocket for when the toilets don't have toilet paper!
This was a problem many times! Wet wipes are great too for quick freshen
uppers after that overnite train ride. Make sure you always have a bottle
of water and a couple of snacks in your backpack for times when restaurants
are not open and your starving. Be ready for toilets with no comode!!!!
Only a hole in the floor with foot markers. They are everywhere in Europe.
And a warning...don't flush until you step just outside the door or your
feet and pants get very wet! When in France carry proper change at all times
for the toilet! You can't get in without correct change!! Last, when buying
a ticket for an overnite train trip, make certain the ticket has cuccetta
(bed)listed at the bottom if you want to sleep comfortably to your next
destination! Be sure it's not a "milk train" too! My husband accidently
bought a no bed milk train ticket to southern Italy and it took 12 hours
to get to Sorrento from Torino! He knew better because we had bought an
overnite ticket before and it was fine. He just wondered why this last ticket
was so much cheaper than the first one. Well, I told him!! But really, overall,
we had a great month in Italy.
Lynda Magnino <email>
Cape Coral, Fl USA 06/23/03
June Italy trip
Just returned from our trip to Italy in early June and thought I'd share
a few comments. Cinque Terre: We last stayed in Vernazza in 1997 and loved
it, but had heard about the tourist build-up there and stayed this time
in Manarola- it turned out to be one of the best decisions of our trip.
We stayed at La Torretta- the rooms are very tasteful, the service is excellent
and the breakfast is served on the nice patio overlooking the harbor- the
inn is a great value and highly recommended! (be warned, though that the
B&B is a very steep walk to the top of the town). We walked all of the trails
and never found any of them crowded, and there were lots of moments of quiet
and serenity. Throughout our stay, we found Manarola, Riomaggiore and Corniglia
to be relatively untouristy and delightful. Vernazza, on the other hand,
was swamped with tour groups, and the number of tourist shops seemed to
have doubled since our last visit. Another good thing about Manarola- the
swimming cove at the foot of the harbor- perfect after hiking in the summer
sun. Orvieto- we stayed at the Hotel Piccolomini- very nice hotel, although
a little pricey for the area. This was the first time we had spent the night
in Orvieto, and we probably will not stop there again. The heavy and constant
vehicle traffic really detracts from the sense of wandering through a medieval
city, and there are very few worthwhile sites other than the duomo and possibly
the underground Etruscan tour. I know this is a working, living city, but
there are other cities of comparable size (such as Lucca) which seem to
have done a much better job of making their town more pedestrian friendly.
I would only recommend Orvieto as a stop for those traveling without a car
who want to stay close to the train line. Otherwise, there are at least
a half a dozen nearby hill towns with much more charm and character. For
anyone considering traveling beyond Firenze and Siena in the Tuscany/Umbria
area, I would strongly recommend renting a car, even if you are only planning
on staying a few days in the region. Procida- far off the tourist path,
and not mentioned in Rick's book, we stayed here as an alternative to the
much more touristed islands of Capri and Ischia. This is the island where
Il Postino was filmed, as well as part of The Talented Mr. Ripley. The positives-
we did not run into another American during our trip, the island is easily
accessible by a nice ferry ride from Naples or Pozzuoli, the prices are
cheap, and the food is excellent, with the freshest seafood possible. The
negatives- the car and scooter traffic is out of control and it is almost
unsafe to be a pedestrian until late in the evening, there are limited places
to stay (we stayed at the Albergo Villa Faro- nice people, good prices,
but spartan rooms far off the main strip), and there was an unbelievable
amount of trash on the island- we were shocked to see people dumping their
refuse along the sides of the roads (old scooters, appliances, etc), and
both the beaches and water were full of garbage. If we are back in this
area again, I think we would return to Capri instead (especially if our
stay was off season).
Jim <email>
Boston, MA USA 06/22/03
hotel verdi in Padua (padova) outside venice does not exist
USA 06/19/03
Riomaggiore
Stayed in Riomaggiore for a couple of nights in May 2003. Did not have reservations,
stopped at Bar Centrale when we got there and they were very helpful in
finding us a room. Be prepared for lots of stairs and steep walking. We
had the "Viola" room (from Mar-Mar), with a large balcony (with a little
table and chairs for outside eating). I found Cinque Terre low-key and relaxing.
My mother on the other hand, found it "creepy" for some reason. She was
quite uncomfortable there and it was the place she least liked on our month-long
trip. Bring water-shoes of some kind if you're going to the beach in Riomaggiore,
it is very difficult to walk barefoot (both in and out of the water). The
walk between Manarola and Riomaggiore is very easy and pretty.
Sonia <email>
Saskatoon, SK Canada 06/19/03
Cinque Terra — Vernazza
Cinque Terra — Vernazza My sister and I recently returned from our first
trip to Italy. In Vernazza we stayed at the Sorriso (Tel 0187 812224). We
could not get a room in any of Rick’s recommended places because we were
only staying one night – and that was a Saturday night. Most places would
not make reservations on the weekend unless you stay 2 nights. Our room
was up several flights of stairs, outside, and then down one flight of stairs.
Our twin room was clean, not too cramped, and the bathroom was a decent
size. The location is just above the train station. The train noise did
not bother me at all (our room faced away from the train station), but might
bother light sleepers. They have a delightful breakfast room and a pretty
good breakfast – the fresh squeezed blood orange juice was a real treat!
The personnel at the desk and the dining room were most pleasant. At 80
Euros a night, I wouldn’t mind staying there again. We had a fantastic dinner
at the Ristorante Vulnetia. We walked from Vernazza to Monterosso, then
took the boat to Manarola, walked to Riomaggiore, and finally took a train
back to Vernazza – the scenery along the trail and from the boat were incredible!!
The people we met in Vernazza were so warm – what a special place this is!!
Thanks again Rick for your most valuable information!!
LA Meharry <email>
Vancouver, WA USA 06/17/03
Living among them
Thanks to you Rick. I've been touring with your books for the past 7 years.
I started with Italy.I love to find the great places to eat after a day
of touring and spending time getting to know the people. respecting their
culture has been helpful because I now live in Germany. My husband excepted
a job over here for 3 years and we travel a lot. I can live with all of
the German rules and remember not to be an ugly American. Happy Trails.
Shelley Buerer
Shelley Buerer <email>
Frankfurt Germany, DE 06/16/03
The Cinque Terre and a Restful Day at the Beach
We just returned from a trip to Italy and thoroughly loved every minute.
After our visit to the Cinque Terre, it felt like we had had our personal
guide with us by following Rick's suggestions. Seeing the villages, it felt
like Disney must have created them because they seemed so perfect. However,
the Cinque Terre was packed with people...Italians and LOTS of American
tourists. We would highly recommend traveling down the coast to the little
town of Tirrenia just outside of Pisa to have a wonderfully restful day
on the beach. Unlike the Cinque Terre, the beaches around Tirrenia are broad
and sandy. If you enjoy the warm Mediterranean without the crowds and foreign
tourists, you will enjoy Terrenia. It appeared to be "the working man's
Riviera" with mostly Italian families. There are some free beach areas,
but be prepared to pay a fee to use one of the many bagnos that subdivide
the beach. Each one has rows of beach chairs and umbrellas, cabanas, clean
restrooms, showers, and food...as well as other options such as playgrounds,
volleyball, or other sports. Be sure to have a Nutella crepe on the Piazza
Belvedere while you're there! YUM!
Karen <email>
Acworth, GA USA 06/15/03
Rick Steves' Italy 2003 Distribution???
I recently returned from Italy and I really benefitted from Rick's Italy
2003 book in all areas of my trip. I saw other travelers using it too, and
I was even approached by tourists who asked me for information from my book.
During my trip, I wandered into several bookstores. Oddly, I noticed that
Rick's book was not among those in the Travel sections, in some stores.
I did see Lonely Planet and some other guidebooks on the shelves. I think
that Rick's book should be more widely available, considering the fact that
he sings the praises of various cities and towns in Italy which prompts
his readers to visit, spend money, and boost their economies. This may be
something worth looking into, or making some "sales calls" about the next
time any of the staff are traveling there.
USA 06/13/03
Returned from Italy in June
Just returned from Italy (June '03) and have to thank Rick for his commentary
on the museum sights in various cities. While in Rome, do try to take in
the Borghese Gallery — they limit the number of visitors (reservation only).
The Bernini statues are out of this world. As well, visit St. Peters early
(7 am) to avoid the crowds. I enjoyed a peaceful moment alone with Michelangelo's
La Pieta. Unfortunatley, I can't say the same for the Vatican Museum. It
was hot and crowded. Everyone raced through to get to the Sistine Chapel.
This is a museum you could easily spend four hours at, but with immense
tour groups — all trying to talk over each other in varying languages,
any opportunity for quiet reflection is lost. I'd personally like to see
them implement a reservation system. Try to visit the Pantheon. Crowds yes,
but it's amazing to stand in the shadows of a 2000 year old building. If
you're in Florence and visiting churches, try to see Santa Maria del Carmine
in Piazza del Carmine (south of the Arno). It's a very plain structure outside,
but inside frescos by Masaccio are amazing — consider he started them at
22 and died just three year later. They were completed by Filippino Lippi.
Disapointments in Italy? Very few, but I did think Sienna was a tourist
trap. I could just as well have been staying in California wine country.
The restaurants were pricey and served what I'd call "tourist fare". Granted,
Sienna is a beautiful town, but I was overwhelmed by the busloads of people
who visited each day. The shops were not unlike any of the mid to high end
mall type in the North America. I wouldn't discourage visiting, but would
reccommend you buy a bottle of wine and put together a few sandwiches yourself
to eat at the Campo. If you're visiting Tuscany and using it as a home base,
it's fine. Otherwise — day trip it. Finally, be careful with bags and pick
pockets at the train station in Naples. On the way through Naples I nearly
had someone steal my suitcase, on the way back someone nearly picked my
pocket. Felt like I was an extra in the movie "Escape from New York". Despite
those incidents, Naples has a flavor unlike any other Italian city. Enoy
your vacation! Ciao!
Sandra
Vancouver, BC Canada 06/13/03
Cortona Photo Gallery
If you are planning a trip to Cortona photo galleries may be viewed at http://hometown.aol.com/upcoevents/viewsofcortna.html
Patrick <email>
Cortona, Italy 06/13/03
Siena
Have just spent 5 nights in Siena. Heartily recommend Palazzo Ravizza. It's
inside the walls, own private Car Park — a real bonus, brilliant restaurant
and 3 minutes from The Campo. Really nice and attentive staff. Rooms at
the back overlooking their garden — excellent and a fair slice of Tuscany
to the south-breathtaking. It's like waking up in a painting each morning!
We are now planning to return for The Palio. That should really be something!
Anybody any tips? Malcolm Owen
Malcolm Owen <email>
Alderley Edge — England, UK 06/11/03
Grazie Rick!
Just wanted to say THANKS to Rick and his amazing staff for creating and
maintaining such a wonderful series of guidebooks! Eventually during my
stay in Italy I knew I'd be soaking up the sun w/ my friends at a swank
villa in the countryside (lucky me!). But I would be arriving in Rome a
few days early and seeing the sights by myself. Which had me very nervous.
But the tips in Rick's Italy guidebook really made it SO easy for me! Just
a few key pieces of info changed my entire trip, I'm sure of it. After I
smoothly navigated the airport and the train and the taxis and reached my
hotel, I felt VERY confident. In fact I found everything to be much easier
than I expected, but only because of the info I'd picked up in Rick's book.
I can't believe people would travel anywhere without first gathering at
least a little bit of info. The tips I found particularly vital in Rick's
Italy book: — ALL of the detailed hotel info — numbers, addresses, managers'
names — an amazing resource! — take the 9 euro train from the airport, skip
the 40 euro cab — what's the deal with train tickets, and those little yellow
boxes — the cheap phone card is a must-have — just look for the tobacco
shop — legitimate metered taxis vs. random scary dudes yelling "taxi" — approximate museum/tourist attraction prices — don't be a paranoid freak
but do keep an eye on your bag/purse — freddo vs. caldo... uh, I think I'm
still confused but cappucino's great either way — Rick's best advice — always
attempt to speak at least a little bit of Italian (with a BIG smile) My
stay in Rome was really great, the Umbrian countryside was fabulous, just
breathtaking. And best of all, I can't wait to go back and see the rest
of Italy!
Lisa <email>
CA USA 06/10/03
Milan Malpensa — Hotel Cervo
Your recommendation regarding the Hotel Cervo near the Milan Malpensa airport
was great, a lovely family run establishment that did an excellent job catering
to our fly out of town needs. Easy and quick pickup and return to the airport,
nice quiet, comfortable, basic rooms, espresso, juice and warm pastries
available very early in the morning. We had a very enjoyable stay there.
You might want to mention that the hotel is in the middle of a small "village" and as far as we can tell there isn't a store or a restaurant within walking
distance. As of June 2003 the restaurant at the hotel was only open M-F
from 8:00PM to 10PM. Food options appear to be very limited outside of this
window and you might find yourself having to head back to the airport to
eat.
Kristen Wittstock <email>
Seattle, WA USA 06/10/03
hotel in Rome
An excellent hotel in Rome is the Domus Carmelitana- about 300 meters from
St. Peter's, quiet, a/c, comfortable. 113 euros/day including a good breakfast.
Book early-it fills up very fast. check their web site and don't be hesitant
because it was once a monastery
Ed Lewis
USA 06/10/03
Italia, What a wonderful country and great Memories!
Big Hugs and huge thanks to Rick Steves and all his staff for making our
trip to Italy easy, fun and memorable. All your tips, maps, guidlines, and
information are right on the money! And your opinions make a lot of sense
for travelers like us! We visited Italia from May 16th to June 6 and had
an amazing and memorable holiday. We loved the trains of Italy! So easy
and stress free! We looked forward to our travel days just for the rejuvination.
Took trains from Da Vinci Airport/Rome Central Station, Rome/Pompeii, Rome/Florence,
Florence/Venice, Venice/Milano. Who needs a car in Italy! Trains, Metros,
Buses, WaterBuses, Airport Shuttles! The Italians ar so smart! In Rome,
we stayed at Rick's personal favorite (according to his guide), Hotel Italia
in the Veneto area of town. (They told us he had been there just the week
before us.) Big thanks to Francesca, Nadine, and Andrea for making us feel
comfortable, safe and welcomed. Great location on a relatively quiet street
(Via Venezia) and a spotlessly clean and simple twin room for $100 euros
per night! Great Job of renovation Hotel Italia; now update your website
photos.(www.hotelitaliaroma.com) TRAVELERS PAY HEED!! Several times in Rick's
guide on Rome, he cautions travelers about Rome's Bus #64 which runs down
Via National! It is full of theives and pickpockets. My Camera was stolen
during our ride on Bus #64. I had the camera strapped to my hip and I thought
I was being cautious! We realized it was missing once we had arrived at
the Pantheon and went to shoot a picture. Only the leather case was still
strapped to my hip. Live and Learn! If you need to buy a camera, 'Synergy'
near the Spanish Steps was a good resource. In Firenze (Florence) we stayed
at Hotel Giada in the San Lorenzo district. The Medicee Chapel was just
across the street, only 25 feet. Hotel Giada was one of many very enjoyable
and positive experiences we had in Italy. Thank you to Maria Rita, Mauro,
Owners Antonio and Eva for making us feel safe, comfortable and welcomed
in your country of Italy and Firenze and in particular the Hotel Giada!!!
The breakfast was hearty and excellent! Again, all this for $100 euros per
night. I stongly recommend Rick check out the Hotel Giada and add them to
his next edition!(www.hotelgiada.com) In Venice, we stayed at a quiet B & B called B&B Venezia located in the residential neighborhood of St Elena.
When we arrived at Santa Lucia Train Station, we took the waterbus #41 or
51 directly to the St. Elena dock (about a 1/2 hour). The Pine Grove is
a welcomed relief and break from the overcrowded and overbuilt island of
Venice. San Marcos Square is only a 10 minute waterbus ride (#82) and a
pleasant alternative to walking. Roberto and Franco and their Aunties will
make you feel like you're home, all for under $92 euros a night (www.bbvenezia.com)
Since we had an early morning flight from Malpensa Airport in Milano, we
chose to stay at the Hotel and Restaurant Cervo (Deer?) and day tripped
in and out of Milano. The Hotel Cervo is just a 5 minute shuttle ride(3
euros one way) to Terminal 1 (International Flights) and made our departure
so easy. At the airport you can catch the shuttle bus into Milano Central
Train Terminal for 4.5 euros and takes about a 1/2 hour. They too, serve
a wonderful and hearty breakfast. Evenings they have a delicious and very
reasonable dinner. I strongly recommend the Hotel Cervo ! They have a very
honest staff. I left a gold ring on the red/gold tapestry bedspread by mistake
and only realized it later when I noticed it missing from my hand. I 'wrote
it off' as a loss and a foolish mistake on my part. When we returned to
our room that eveing, my gold ring was sitting in the ashtray on the desk.
I couldn't thank management and house keeping enough for being so honest.
There are more honest people in this world than not; no matter where you
go.(www.hotelcervo.it) We met some great ladies, Lora (?) and Lisa Hensley
in Rome and again in Florence and had wonderful breakfast and dinners together.
I hope to hear from them. For some crazy reason, we didn't exchange email
adddresses when we said goodbye in Florence. Thanks again Rick for helping
us make Italy a reality on our budget!
Dan Stoddard and Jon Welch <email>
San Diego, CA USA 06/10/03
safety in Italy
A further word this time about personal safety in Italy. The streets are
safe and outside of Rome they are cleaner than most American cities. As
for holding on to your wallet/handbag for dear life- we took no greater
precautions than if we had vacationed in the US. Just a little sensitivity
as to where you are and everything is ok. We felt no less safe in Italy
than we do in Germany — and we travel to Germany very frequently.
Ed Lewis
USA 06/08/03
Great Vacation in Italy
My husband and I just returned from a 2 week vacation in Italy. We used
Rick's 2003 book and this website for research and planning. We had a great
time! We tried to stay in "moderate" or "low" priced places in the book,
but had a hard time securing reservations in many places. The recommended
places were pretty much in line with what "Rick" said. And "Rick" was a
welcome addition to our family while on the road. We gave "him" his own
seat at meals, and double checked often to make sure that "he" was with
one of us. Milan: stayed at Hotel Gritti, which was conveniently located
(Duomo Metro and shopping), friendly, clean, yet worn. Splurged for veg
dinner at Joia, and dined at Pizzarita Pastarita, and licked gelato from
Odeon. Venice: stayed at Locanda San Trovaso, which was a clean, bright,
quiet, friendly place. Would stay there again. Mark was so helpful. The
restaurants weren't that great. Very touristy. Enjoyed the night strolls,
boat rides, and gelato. Florence: stayed right in the thick of it at Hotel
Maxim, in their new annex which was great. One of the best bathrooms we
had. Samantha was super helpful. Would stay there again. Ate at Ruth's,
Il Vegetariano, and Ristorante di 5 Amici(?). Plus, I tried the recommended
gelato spots. Yum! The San Lorenzo market was overwhelming, but fun to shop.
Siena: stayed just outside of town at Albergo Castagneto, which was clean,
great views, friendly, right near the bus stop, but old-school decor and
NSE. Would stay in town next time. Ate at Gallo Nero, Osteria Da Divo, and
Taverna di San Guiseppe, which I recommend. Rome: stayed at Hotel Santa
Prassede, which was renovated, small, decent facilities and location, helpful
staff, laundry service. But for this city, I'd spend a bit more and stay
in a brighter, fancier place next time. Ate at Margutto Vegetariano and
Osteria da Nerone, which I recommend. Sorrento: stayed at Il Nido Hotel
& Ristorante, which is bright, clean, friendly, modern, with views, free
internet, and free shuttle. The food is good too. Would stay there again
for sure. Ate at the restaurant, which was inexpensive, tasty, and convenient
after a day of sightseeing and shopping. Davide Gelato was great! A bus
ride to Positano was quick and easy from here as well as scenic. We really
appreciated the recommendation to be on our guards, wear moneybelts, hold
onto our bags, and walk confidently. It got us through rough spots (Naples
train station, Circumvesuviana train between Sorrento and Naples) and enabled
us to relax and enjoy ourselves without any problems. Thanks Rick!
LWC
San Francisco, CA USA 06/07/03
Italy was great!
Rick, last year my husband and I travled to Italy and we just wanted to
say thanks for a wonderful trip! here are the highs for the trip. Rome was
wonderful we loved it! Florence was okay, you just have to make sure you
get to the sights early, try gelato at Gelateria Carrozze it was great!
Siena was nice and quite a great and cheap place to stay at the end of a
trip. Venice was the Best! Please check out Trattoria Al Cugnai, the sisters
were wonderful they kept hugging my husband and me.they have alot of food
for a little money ( order the roast chicken). Make sure to get a Gondola
ride it's worth the money we found someone who gave us a 30 min ride for
60 us dollars and this was at night. While in The Cinque Terre we had to
spend out first night in the train station in La Spezia , because of a language
problem with Giuliano Basso( Vernazza) he left before we got there and we
never got our money back( even though I paid well in advance of arriving).
But Luciano and Roberto saved the day! ( Riomaggiore) They are great and
the best apartments in the area! They are so helpful and sweet! Every one
must visit Dau Cila Bar in Riomaggiore it is so peaceful and the owner is
wonderful, say hello to shack the cat. You must eat at La Lampara it's been
a year and we still can't get them off our minds, the food was great! We
loved Italy!! tiffany & adrian
tiffany elliott <email>
chapel hill, nc USA 06/07/03
Comments on Siena & Milan — May/June 2003
We just returned from a trip to Italy — Florence (See Florence page), Siena & Milan. This covers Siena & Milan. Please be advised that these are OUR
experiences based on ONE trip to Italy. Hotels: Siena — Hotel Santa Caterina
is great! It takes 15 minutes to walk from there to Il Campo, but the staff
is warm, the rooms are good sized & clean, the view is excellent and the
breakfast in the garden.. what a way to wake up! Milan — Hotel Gritti — Warm, helpful staff. Rooms & hotel look a bit worn. Very clean. Great Location.
Nice dog. Restaurants: We live in NJ/NYC area and found the Italian food
here to be as good as any we ate there. We didn't find a restaurant worth
recommending or criticizing in either Siena or Milan. We were in Milan for
only two nights — I am sure there are great restaurants in both cities,
but we didn't find them. Gelatos, Vino & Cappucinos .. now, that was wonderful!
Right now, (May/June 2003) the entire facade of the Milan Cathedral is under
wraps as they renovate. We had a great time. Follow Rick's advise and spend
at least a night in Siena (we spent 3). It is magical in the evenings/nights.
Take good walking shoes. Enjoy. C&T
C&T <email>
Maplewood, NJ USA 06/06/03
Positano Hotel
We spent a delightful couple of days in Positano. I can't say enough positive
about the Eden Roc Hotel. We were tired, one of us was carsick so we just
pulled up in front without reservations at thee first place the looked inviting.
They made us feel welcome and at home and the room had an amazing view of
the town. While we just lucked into it, it turned out to be one of the highlights
of our trip.
Dennis Storz <email>
Portland, OR USA 06/06/03
Capri
I just returned from a one-week stay in Capri. We had a wonderful time — it's a charming place for those who enjoy "dolce far niente", the sweetness
of doing nothing that any daytripper will never get to enjoy. The only disappointment
during the trip was our choice of staying at Villa Eva in Anacapri. First
of all, it's very far from anywhere! The website is deceiving — it seems
you can get a ride upon arrival in Capri at Marina Grande to the villa but
in reality they would only pick you up at the bus stop in Anacapri and will
only give you a ride back to Anacapri town center on departure at their
convenience, meaning you can wait for an hour or more after checking out,
or walk uphill for 15 minutes plus to the bus station. Our "cottage" was
dark and depressing, there was a slight problem with mosquitos and we saw
worms crawling in the bathroom. Eva herself wasn't too "warm", she put a
sign that her credit card machine was out of order on the day we checked
out but when she couldn't find prove that I had paid a 2-night deposit and
i refused to pay for our 7 night stay in cash, she relented and let me charge
it to my credit card. Her machine was working just fine. Overall, I'd recommend
staying in Capri Town for comparable room rates, better restaurant options
and convenience. Anacapri's restaurants are few, more expensive yet inferior
in quality compared to Capri town.
Vicky
Los Angeles, CA USA 06/06/03
Italy — Hotels and Restaurants in Rome (Roma), Sorrento, Sicily Sicilia
(Taormina, Siracusa, Cefalu)
Italy — Hotels and Restaurants in Rome (Roma), Sorrento, Sicily Sicilia
(Taormina, Siracusa, Cefalu) In May 2003 we traveled for twenty great
days in Italy. We spent our arrival night in Rome, took a train the next
morning to Naples (2 hrs.) and connected to Sorrento (1 hr.), our base
for the next three nights. It's a beautiful town, though a bit touristy.
From Sorrento we took day trips to Pompeii and Capri. Then back to Rome
to meet our travelling companions and stay two nights. We all flew to
Sicily and bussed from the Catania airport directly to Taormina (spectacular
setting, touristy but not bad in May with 65% fewer tourists than normal!)
After three nights in Taormina we took the train to Siracusa (2 hrs).
It was pretty and the archeological sites and museum interesting. We had
hoped to visit Agricento from Siracusa, but that turned out to be difficult
would have been easier from Palermo or Cefalu. So we spent two nights
in Siracusa, then took a bus to Palermo (3.5 hrs) connecting with a train
ride one hour east to Cefalu, a lovely town with great beaches. We flew
back to Rome after three nights in Cefalu, and spent another four there.
The average exchange rate was €1 = US$1.16 Here are our favorite hotels, restaurants, and shops in each city. If you have questions, write me at 7swittet@path.org but first delete the 7.
Rome We stayed on the Aventine Hill, a charming, residential district of trees, parks, churches, walls smothered in aromatic star jasmine, singing birds. It's south of the Coliseum and Circus Maximus (the metro stop is Pyramide/Ostiense), near the Trastevere and Testaccio districts. Unfortunately it falls just off the southern limits of many Rome maps. Hotel Villa San Pio; Via Melania, Tel. +39 06 5783214 — 5745174 – 5743547; Fax +39 06 5783604, info@aventinohotels.com; www.aventinohotels.com We were lucky to get a great discount at the Villa San Pio ( ¬ 140 instead of 197 for a fantastic double with bath) even then it was our most expensive accomodation. But once we'd spent a couple of nights, we wouldn't dream of changing. Our room was beautiful and large with free web access from the TV, nice breakfast buffet, marble covering every surface in the bath, and (lucky us!) a balcony big enough for table and chairs, with a leafy view. We woke to springtime birdsong every morning! The San Pio has two sister hotels within a two block area, the Aventino and the San Anselmo. They are less expensive. At first I was concerned about being up on the hill, but the walk from the hotel to the Via Marmorata, Pyramide metro station and Ostiense train station (with trains to and from the airport) took only 10 minutes. Going out and returning home through the quiet neighborhood became a favorite beginning and end of each day. There are buses and a tram from Via Marmorata to various spots around the city, but we didn't use them. Walking down the other side of the hill, we learned to take a charming cobbled road, closed to traffic, that got us to the Ponte Palatino and Trastevere in about 15 minutes. Restaurant Luna Piena, Via della Robbia, 15, Tel. 06-575-0279. Closed Wednesday. The San Pio staff recommended this medium-priced, neighborhood trattoria in Testaccio. Great food with interesting art on the walls (there is sidewalk seating too). It's at the bottom of the hill from San Pio, off Via Marmorata. The hotel can give you a photocopied map, and could make reservations. While you'll find foreigners there, this is far from tourist routes and most of the diners are local. Da Otello in Trastevere, Via della Pellicola, 47/53, Tel. 06 589-6848 Rick Steves was right about Da Otello great food, reasonable prices, nice antipasto bar. Near Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere. Get there early. English tours in Rome: Optimus, Tel. 333-394-8943 or 320-063-1693 email: optimus_tours@hotmail.com www.geocities.com/optimustours.com Optimus gives free promotional tours daily at St. Peters (catch a tour if you can, especially if Cleona is leading it). The small company, started by two British women, has been in business for three years and specializes in offering native English speakers as guides. We took two of their tours. Off the Beaten Track was led by Alice, a 25-y-o American from Iowa. Great fun! Then Aussie Vanessa led the “Julius Caesar s Rome tour what a treat since she is a Classical scholar with a wealth of information. Each tour costs € 26 per person and lasts about 3 hours. If I had another day I would have taken their Vatican Museum/St. Peters all-day tour too. Sorrento
We loved Sorrento — roaming the medieval section is especially nice. Boats take you to Capri in about 20 minutes and the train gets you to Pompeii in 30, Herculaneum in 45, Naples in an hour. Hotel Settimo Cielo, Via Capo, 27, Tel. +39 081 8781012 Fax +39 081 8073290, settimocielo@syrene.it, www.hotelsettimocielo.com/default.htm This hotel is a 15 minute walk west of town, well clear of the hustle and bustle. It s nestled in the cliffs below the road, so there is no road noise. There are regular local buses into town if you're tired. It's on a bluff and every room has spectacular views of the Bay of Naples, Sorrento, and Mount Vesuvius. The staff are friendly and helpful and provide a decent breakfast buffet. Ristorante-Pizzeria Verdemare, Via Capo, 70, Tel. 081-878-2589 The Settimo Cielo staff told us that this is where they go for a family trattoria experience. While the staff don t speak much English, they treated us royally and we had a wonderful meal. Verdemare serves great food and it s inexpensive. It's a five minute walk up the road from Settimo Cielo (towards Massa, not Sorrento). Ristorante Lanterna Due The hotel also recommended this place in the medieval district. I didn't get their business card, so don't have full contact info. Great food and service in a charming setting. There are two other Lanternas (same family) in different parts of town but we didn't see them. Warning — Ristorante Vela Bianca. This place is next to the ferry docks. Our experience was pleasant until the bill came they charged us € 35 for a dish listed at € 20 in the menu and € 10 for the antipasto bar, listed at € 7. They claimed we asked for extras, but we had said nothing of the sort. This wasn't a language issue as the staff speak excellent English (our waiter grew up in the Bronx and works at his father's restaurant there most of the year). We felt ripped off.
Taormina, Sicily Taormina is Sicily's number one tourist destination. It was crowded even in May, especially when the tour buses rolled in, but it's picturesque and the setting is magnificent. We loved it! We stayed at the Hotel Villa Schuler, paying € 124 for a double with bath. The rooms are a bit run down, and many only have ornamental balconies, but all with wonderful views. The management are strong believers that a wet bathroom floor is a great way to start the day and have no shower curtains. Breakfast is served by waitresses on the panoramic view terrace and was very nice — the only place we got fresh squeezed juice. The hotel also has a beautiful garden. But I hesitate to recommend it as our room just wasn't nice enough for the money. www.villaschuler.com Ristorante-Pizzeria U Lantirnaru, Via Apollo Areageta, 14, Tel. 09-4224-565 A nice family trattoria with reasonable prices and great food. We ate outside under a blooming orange tree! It's near the Piazza S. Antonio. Ceramic and Wrought Iron Art in Castelmola Castelmola is a lovely town up the mountain from Taormina. We took a local bus there, explored, then walked down to Taormina. We found wonderful ceramic art in a tiny shop/workshop near the bus stop just outside of Castelmola proper with better prices than in town. And the views are spectacular up there! The shop: Bottega Artigiana di Maestro Teodoro Caso (he s a master iron worker), Via Porta di Mola, Castelmola, Tel. 0942-28212, teodorocaso@tiscali.it, www.teodorocaso.com/800X600/Index/home800.html
Siracusa, Sicily We enjoyed Siracusa, but it had tough competition from gorgeous Taormina and Cefalu. Hotel Gran Bretagna, Via Savoia 2, Tel: 0931-68-765, Fax: 0931-462-169 The rooms are clean, large and pleasant and the location is good, in the middle of Ortygia Island, near the Temple of Apollo and the marina. But the guidebook that told us “the hotel is full of charm, frescoes, and paintings was describing another place. Still, it was quiet at night and the staff were very friendly and helpful. Ristorante La Spigola, Via Senatore Moscuzza, 3 (corner of Montedoro) Tel. 0931 62464 This wonderful, friendly, inexpensive family trattoria/pizzeria was my favorite of the trip. The food was out of this world (great antipasto bar with lots of seafood), the atmosphere was pure Italy, they had a non-smoking dining room upstairs with a clear view of the dining room below you could see what everyone was eating and watch the pizzas (excellent!) come out of the oven. The waiters had little English, but were tolerant and accustomed to folks like us. It s close to Ortygia, just across the bridge on the mainland, and well worth a visit! Trattoria Archimede, Via Gemmellaro, 8, Tel. 0931-69701 This trattoria generally was excellent, with nice décor, though it was a bit pricier than La Spigola. Nice antipasto bar with seafood. The only disappointment was my veal cutlet it was all gristle. Maybe it s better to stick with the fresh seafood here? www.trattoriaarchimede.it Cephalů, Sicily Cephalů, recommended by a friend with Sicilian in-laws, was fantastic. Great setting, quaint medieval center, dramatic looming
Rocca with ancient ruins and a panoramic view, and sandy beaches. The
prices were cheaper than in Taormina or Siracusa. We had booked ahead
in Hotel Baia del Capitano, but only spent one night. It s five kilometers
out of Cephalu (we didn t have a car, the buses stop at 6pm and taxis
cost € 12 each way). But the biggest turnoffs were the rooms (strange
layouts and a bit dingy) and the staff (at best uninterested, sometimes
hostile or aggressive). There are no services outside the hotel and the
restaurant was overpriced and unpromising. We skipped lunch rather than
eat there. Their private beach is about 500 meters away and not as nice
as the beach in town. Breakfast was disappointing as well. We moved to
a place in town the next morning, but I don t recommend it either. The
location was good, but the owner was a jerk. Fortunately for us the other
staff were pleasant and helpful. Kentia Ristorante, Via N. Botta, 15,
Tel 0921 423801 A lovely restaurant, perfect for a fancier dinner. Most
of us loved our meals, though they did serve one tough steak. Osteria
La Botte, Via Veterani, 6, Tel. 0921 424315 Very good family trattoria,
great value. Ceramic shop: Triscele, Corso Ruggero, 61, Tel 0921 923197
The best quality we saw in Cefalu, and among the best on the island. Prices
were good too.
Scott W <email>
Seattle, WA USA 06/03/03
Italy
Just got back from Italy: Rome, Siena, Florence, Hill Towns, Ravenna,
Verona, Como. Some praise and some criticism. In Rome, a much better restaurant
near the Vatican than Tre Pupazzi- 25 meters up the street is Al Passetto
di Borgo. Our experience with tour guides is poor. In the Vatican museum
we used the audio guides and received an education- The Sistine Chapel
is understandable to us now.
The best tour was free. Four days a week (check at Vatican info) at 2:15Pm
a tour of St. Peters conducted by American clergy in Rome- Lasts 2/12
hours- and it is not"preachy" as Rick states. Florence Ufizzi Gallery
was a major diappointment. When three tour groups in three different languages
compete over a gallery room then enough is enough!! Save your money and
stay in Siena. Incidentally, Rick states that the Santa Caterina in Siena
was pricy and a long walk from the town. We disagree- you get more than
your money's worth (133 euro) and it is only a 10 minute walk to town
center Verona was an incredible surprise-a beautiful city with lovely
churches, etc. In Verona we found a deal a 2 star hotel that was very
comfortable, quiet with excellent a/c and free parking within 2 minutes
of the main areas 78 euros- Hotel Armando Via Dietro Pallone 1, Tel. 045-8000206
Ed Lewis
USA 06/02/03
B&B in Umbria
I second the recommendation for El Marsam in Umbertide. If you are looking
for a base to explore the hill towns that is comfortable, this is it. My
wife and I just returned from Italy and we can truly recommend El Marsam.
Mike and Ginda Simpson are Americans with roots in Umbria. They can be of
real help in deciding where and when to visit.
Ed Lewis <email>
USA 06/01/03
Place to Stay, Umbria, Italy
For those travelers in Central Italy who are looking For those travelers
to central Italy, I can recommend staying at El Marsam Bed and Breakfast
in Umbertide, near Perugia in Umbria. This restored farmhouse sits overlooking
vineyards and farmlands vistas in the direction of Umbertide, a small town.
The rooms were spacious and tastefully decorated. As this is also the home
to an artist and author, Ginda Simpson, you will be pleased at viewing some
of her works throughout the house. In addition, you will be served sumptuous
breakfasts with local produce and farm fresh eggs! The evening meals are
also home cooked and generous in portions for an additional fee (half board).
The beds were quality and the sleeping excellent since El Marsam sits far
away from the traffic and noise. Temperatures inside the main dwelling may
be cool at times, and you must carefully follow the detailed directions
in order to find the place, but for those who wish a friendly, home away
from home atmosphere, I hardily recommend El Marsam to fellow travelers.
Both English and Italian are spoken here. http://www.elmarsam.com
Dan Leonik <email>
Dhahran, Saudi Arabia 05/30/03
Hotel Metropole Suisse (Como) Theft
We just returned from Como, Italy and stayed at the Hotel Metropole Suisse.
While the hotel and it's location were wonderful, I would not recommend
it for the following reason: My spouse accidentally left a diamond and sapphire
ring out on the bathroom counter after showering and getting dressed for
the day. In a rush to meet a tour departure time, the ring was left out,
instead or being worn, or put into the safe. We did not discover this until
we were out and away on our tour for the day. When we returned back to the
room, after extensively searching the entire room, including bathroom, dressers,
our clothing and jacket pockets, under beds, rugs, anywhere that we thought
it could have been misplaced, even though we knew that last place it was
left, was on the bathroom counter, we reported the missing ring to the staff
and management. They did absolutely nothing to try and find the culprit
of the crime (theft of the ring), only indicating that their employees have
been with them for a long time, because of their honesty and integrity.
We were rather blamed for leaving the ring out, as opposed to wearing it
or putting in the locked safe. Accidents happen, but I would never recommend
this hotel, based upon this experience, even though it is a nice facility.
Joe <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 05/29/03
Great Tuscan B&B
Off the beaten path outside of Chiusi/Montepulciano there is a sleepy town
called Sarteano. A wonderful albergo with restaurant called La Torre ai
Mari hides in the hills. The owners Mauro and Stella Pierini are gracious
and warm and Mauro's mother and father do all the home cooking. Incredible
and reasonable. A room for two with bath and breakfast is about $78 a night.
There is a swimming pool and tennis court and beautiful gardens. I stay
there as my home base as often as possible. About midway between Rome and
Florence in the most beautiful part of Tuscany. Tel and fax are (0578) 265370-01.
You can also find them on the web. La Torre ai Mari B&B is a true Rick Steves
jewel.
Leanna
USA 05/27/03
Private Driver for Amalfi Coast
I used taxibenvenuto to get from Sorrento to Amalfi and highly recommend
them. Umberto, the father is wonderfully entertaining and has great stories
to share. They have expanded their services, they now have a list of excursions
and tours that they offer. http://www.taxibenvenuto.com/
Sam Oxford
Clayton, MO USA 05/24/03
Assisi, Calendimaggio, and Anne Robichaud
My wife and returned this week from a 17 day trip to Italy. The highlight
of the trip was a single day in Assisi for the Calendimaggio Festival with
Anne Robichaud. I would highly recommend Assisi and Calendimaggio but do
not do it without Anne. Our day was fabulous. Besides a standard walk through
town and a visit to a the Basilica of St. Francis and St. Claire, we experienced
the following: — Met with a number of local shop owners and artisans, even
got to see a local bookbinder at work. I don't know if it's standard but
a number of them were willing to give us discounts because we were with
Anne. — Lunch at the home (a tremendous understatement) of a local dentist,
who also happens to be an art and antiquities collector and a fabulous jazz
musician. Lunch was done the Italian way — anitpasto, primi, secondi, contorni,
and dolce. Followed by a tour of his home and a few songs. I have to say
that given that the tickets to Calendimaggio were €80 and the lunch cost
€50, the total price of the tour — €175 was incredibly reasonable. I only
wish we'd been able to spend more time in Umbria and with Anne!
Jay <email>
Richmond, VA USA 05/22/03
Florence, Pompeii, Sorrento, Amalfi
Florence — great tips on reservation, lines, etc.; had a wonderful time.
Naples — was wondering why there were very few recommendations on places to stay here. I now know why. We got there almost midnight from Florence and as you go out of the train station, you could almost step on homeless people sleeping near the entrance/exit of the station. Good thing, Hotel Ginevra was only a couple of short blocks away. Make sure you keep your email correspondence with hotels. Hotel Ginevra almost charged me 50% more than they quoted me until I showed Bruno, owner, their email on their offer. I was supposed to get 10% discount but he gave me 5% — didn't bother to get the extra 5% because he didn't speak much English (maybe Lello was still asleep). Place OK but not great with slowly-draining shower stall. But you can skip staying in Naples and go to Sorrento or Amalfi.
Circumvesuviana train to Pompeii — great 2-3 hours in Pompeii ruins following Rick's walking guide; you could spend a day easily (or maybe an entire semester if you're into Pompeii study); but after Pompeii, you can continue your train ride to Sorrento if train stub says you have enough time. Bus to Amalfi from Sorrento can also be green (and not just blue). This caused us to miss the bus that would have gotten us to Amalfi much earlier. Also, the bus doesn't travel along the coast from the main station only; it goes through other inland towns like Meta (etc.) before it heads out to your breath-taking bus ride to Positano & Amalfi. Note on validating bus ticket: Make sure you don't validate it twice or you'll get in trouble when the conductor checks your ticket. If you validate it on the wrong bus, and you get on the next or right one, just tell them you got it stamped or validated on the other bus, they'll just sign it.
Capri is OK just so you could say you've been to the Isle of Capri; otherwise,
take the boat, browse, ride the funicular, the bus, and you're done. Suggestion
on boat ride to Capri: in Naples, if time is important more than the ticket
price, instead of buying a round trip ticket from one boat company that
takes you to Capri (which means you're bound to take their scheduled trip
back to Naples), buy one way and when you feel like you want to go back,
check the other boat companies' schedule for their next trip and, maybe,
save time. Otherwise, on a roundtrip ticket, you're confined to whatever
schedule they have.
roberto <email>
Oakland, CA USA 05/20/03
Italy
Dear Rick, We visted Venice, Florence and Rome, May 2003. The weather was
perfect and so were the people. We stayed in Rome at the Residenza Cellini.
It was fantastic. The service was fabulous the rooms were lovely. SInce
it was just recently been remodeled it was in presteen condition. I have
recommended it to friends and the price is hard to beat. Thanks for the
tip. In Venice was stayed at the Danali Hotel. Wow that was a treat. The
favorite resturant was Do Firno in Venice. Great! and the service was fab.
Janice Blake <email>
Paradise Valley, AZ USA 05/19/03
Bellagio, April 2003
My wife had been bugging my to drive to Bellagio by the little road along
Lake Como; to enjoy the view, she said. I think she spent most of the drive,
however, making sure I did not take my eyes off the astonishingly narrow
road. We enjoyed our stay at the historical and cheap Hotel Suisse with
its waterfront view of the Swiss Alps across the lake and nearly medeval
appointments. They will need to attend to their bathrooms, though. Ours
was pretty rough, even for Italy. We went early to the Trattoria San Giacomo
and got to sit inside. Late comers had to sip their grappa outside in the
weather as they waited for a table inside at this wonderful restaurant specializing
in local dishes. We walked onto the car ferry for a short boat ride to Varenna
and had a peaceful lunch at Albergo Olivedo's, enjoying a table in the sun
and watching the ferries come and go. I don't recommend driving to Bellagio.
Take the boat ride from Como instead and enjoy the views.
Al <email>
OR USA 05/17/03
Amalfi
I stayed in the village of Amalfi for 3 nights at Hotel Aurora. My friend
and I enjoyed every minute we spent there. We arrived at night after all
the day tourists had left and rolled up to our hotel to be greeted by the
most charming italian man(my stay was definately enhanced by him). We had
wonderful dinners and shopped for Italian ceramics and enjoyed the village
day & night. We had the opportunity to go elsewhere, but decided to soak
up Amalfi itself. The midday can be crowded, but after the traffic slows
the romance of the place is there. Enjoy!
c keathley
St. Louis, MO USA 05/13/03
Pompeii & Sorrento
Took the Eurostar train from Rome to Naples. Transferring to the Circumvesuviana
commuter train to Pompeii was exactly as stated in the book. Stopped at
Pompeii on the way to Sorrento. You could spend one hour to a few days there.
We used the tour in the book plus an audioguide. Make sure you have sunscreen.
Upon arrival in Sorrento we checked out the bus connection to the Amalfi coast. At 3pm the owner of the tabacchi (tobacco) shop at the station was just returning from lunch. There was much confusion about where to buy tickets before he returned. We were going the following day (Sunday) so we checked the posted schedule and bought tickets then.
We stayed at Il Nido Restorante-Hotel based on three super recommendations on this web site. I just noticed another. I don't know why this place is not in the book. If ever there was a backdoor place, this is it. Our room was large, clean and comfortable. Then there was the view. You overlook the bay of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius. It is spectacular. We decided to try the restaurant the first night and thought we were in heaven. Again the view was wonderful compounded by the sun setting over Capri. The food was fabulous and very reasonable. Needless to say we didn't even think about going elsewhere the second night.(www.ilnido.it)
Took the bus to Positano and a taxi back because of the Sunday bus schedule
and the May Day weekend crowds.If you get off the bus at the second stop
in Positano, walk down the hill about 50 yards and have lunch on the sidewalk
overlooking the beach. Sorrento is a nice town to stroll and shop.
George Scott <email>
Savage, Mn USA 05/13/03
Florence, Italy
Having spent far too short of time in Florence, Italy, I am going back.
Pannella' Residence is a must stay bed and breakfast that is run by a most
delightful woman. It is so beautiful and charming that you will want to
just luxuriate in the surroundings. You can find many pictures online.
Carolyn Day <email>
Denver, CO USA 05/13/03
Cinque Terre
Levanto and the Cinque Terre are beautiful in April. Hiking from Riomaggiore
up to Monterrso is the best way to go. Two places I must recommend for solo
travellers, Villa Margharita, a most reasonable and hospitable bed and breakfast
and for dining Ristorante Locanda La Loggia close to the marina which means
fresh fish. They both can be found online. Enjoy, Ciao
Carolyn Day <email>
Denver, CO USA 05/13/03
Italy -Rome, Venice, Sorrento, Amalfi
Just returned from 12 days in Italy and could not have done it without Rick's
book. My husband teased me the whole trip because the book never stayed
in the backpack for more than 20 minutes at a time. Some helpful hints and
tips:
Hotels — all were fantastic, Il Nido in Sorrento was by far our favorite. Rome — Residenza Frattina (returned 100 euros I had accidentally left in my passport) and Hotel Oceania. Venice — Hotel Campiello. Sorrento — Il Nido.
Restaurants — Our favorites were: Rome — Enoteca Spiriti; Venice — Osteria da Carla; Sorrento — Il Nido (great views, 30 euros for 3 courses with wine).
Trains — by far the most frustrating part of our trip. Make reservations! We splurged on 1st class tickets from Rome to Venice but didn't have a reservation. We bought our tickets at the station about an hour before departure and assumed we had a reservation. We sat on our luggage in the hall for 6 hours because we didn't know how to tell if the seats were reserved. Look at the little slips of paper outside of the seating compartments to see if the seats are reserved. If there is no slip for a particular seat, it doesn't have a reservation (at least I think this is how it works). Our overnight train from Venice to Naples worked out great. Try to avoid buying tickets from the machines at train stations and if you do, have exact change. We tried to get on a train one morning before the tabacchi (corner store that sells tickets) by the station opened and it took us 1/2 hour to get tickets from the machine.
Amalfi: I was very disappointed with Amalfi(the town itself, not the coast). Go to Positano or Ravello. I would hire a car if we did the Amalfi coast again. The busss are crazy. If you're on the left side, you won't see anything because people are jam packed in the aisles. When the bus shows up, everyone runs to the door, there is no orderly or polite line to get on the bus. It's every man for himself and difficult to adjust to if you are used to being polite.
Waited until the airport to look for souvenirs. Very little choice and
really overpriced (more than the usual airport markup). Wished I would
have done more shopping before we got to the airport. Overall an excellent
vacation. Can't wait to go back again!
Kim
Cary, NC USA 05/13/03
Italy guidebook changes
Would like to tell you of a couple corrections in your Italy 2003 book.
1. Airport buses run from Malpensa to Stresa both directions ONLY with a reservation. In your guide book you state that you only need a reservation coming from Stresa. We had to take a $60 taxi ride because of this misinformation.
2. Your informaion on the Convent of the Capuchins in Monterosso is out
of date. We had an accidental stay there because of a train strike (Hotel
Steno, which was wonderful, was full and we had to find another spot for
for our unexpected extra day). The Convent ended up being our favorite
stop of our entire 3 week stay. In your guide you state that no English
is spoken. The monks have leased out this spot for the past few years
to a wonderful family from the Lake Como region. Sergio and Jerri Redaelli
are there all the time and Sergio's English is great. Their daughter Mara
visits from Milan often and speaks wonderful English. We didn't meet their
son, but he spent a year as an exchange student in Oklahoma, so I'd guess
his English has a bit of a midwest twang. This is a must stay for anyone
who enjoys a $3.50 bottle of wine on a deck overlooking the best view
on the Cinque Terre, loves meeting delightful hosts, and thinks that cleanliness
is next to Godliness. Honestly, the floors were squeaky clean and the
food was awesome.
McCauley
Aberdeen, Wa USA 05/12/03
Stop & Enjoy!!
I completely agree with TEE. While in Italy, ENJOY!! You can make any experience
a pleasant one with the right frame of mind. I always enjoy meeting other "tourists" while traveling. If you really dislike crowds, travel during
the off season. You'll feel like you have some sights all to yourself. Buon
Divertimento!!
Sam Oxford
Clayton, MO USA 05/10/03
You're a tourist, get over it already
Please, everyone stop complaining about being in areas with "tons of tourists"
or being surrounded by "tourists." You ARE a tourist and popular tourist
places are popular for a reason. For one thing, remember those other tourists
are very likely interesting people with interesting stories to tell — don't
discount them just becuse they are "tourists". Interact, make your own experiences
and stop grumbling — get up early or go out late to see places without
the crowds. Tourism is big business and I would rather see a beautiful place
survive on tourist dollars rather than manufacturing or industry
TEE <email>
Seattle, WA USA 05/09/03
Guide book was very useful
We recently returned from Italy and found much of the 2003 guidebook to
be helpful (especially in finding rooms). We were incredibly happy with
Martina's rooms in Vernazza. We'd called ahead and gotten the last of her
rooms (one tucked behind the main square with no view). Even that room was
incredibly well-appointed, comfortable, quiet and inexpensive at 55 euros.
In Rome we did not do as well. We went the cheap route and opted for the Y. I've used the YWCA in other countries and found they were very well run. The rooms were clean, but the bathroom was a mess with poor plumbing that caused the showers to overflow and continue down the hallway. We complained, but received only an affirmation that it does indeed flood, but apparently they had no plans to fix it. Breakfast was awful and we were glad to leave.
In Milan we went to the Hotel Nuovo for very clean rooms (prices a bit higher than the guide book) and loved the location just off the Duomo.
The suggestions for Florence were great and we enjoyed a day trip from
their to Siena via the SITA bus. If we go again, we'll spend more time
relaxing in the Cinque Terre.
Jessica <email>
Seattle, WA USA 05/09/03
Vernazza — Cinque Terre
After arriving in Vernazza, we were unsure where to stay. As we walked down
the major street, we met Mike Castiglione, who was immediately friendly
and warm. He asked us if we would like one of his rooms with a view. A bit
skeptical, we followed through the winding uphill streets of Vernazza. Upon
reaching our destination, we could not believe our eyes! The room Mike showed
us was quaint, immaculate and had a bathroom with a shower and new fixtures.
As if that were not enough, Mike escorted us to the terrace that accompanies
the room. It was breathtaking. The terrace overlooks the Med Sea, is quiet,
and makes one feel like they own a small slice of Vernazza. The room and
view truly made our trip unique. Moreover the terrace was alive with fresh
flowers and well maintained. Mike, and his wife Francas hospitality furthered
enhanced our stay. Both are truly wonderful, speak English, and are happy
to answer any questions.Without a doubt, our stay in Vernazza would not
have been the same. I was distressed to find out that a travel publication
as well respected and used as yours did not list their rooms. Such a listing
would be a true asset to this book.
Randy Fayne and Monica Tama <email>
Cleveland, OH USA 05/07/03
Herculaneum
Herculaneum now has a very nice book and souvenir shop and a small snack
bar next to the entrance. We also highly recommend the English audio guide
available at the entrance. We found Herculaneum to be a very worthwhile
short side trip, as it is far less crowded (and much smaller) than Pompeii,
has much more "stuff" intact, and is a reasonable walk from the train station.
The whole restored area can easily be seen in a couple of leisurely hours.
Les <email>
FL USA 05/06/03
B&B in Tuscany
For anyone wanting a B&B in Tuscany, we found a great place in Montalcino.
Super clean, very friendly and reasonable. Run by a very helpful couple
(the man is originally from U.S.) — they are more than willing to help you
plan your day. We didn't want to leave. Their website is http://www.montalcinoitaly.com/home_cesira.htm.
Al Peters <email>
Hermosa Beach, CA USA 05/06/03
Sorrento, Pompeii
Stayed at Hotel Minerva six nights and enjoyed it very much. Good recommendation.
A very good place to eat is Da Filippo Ristorante-Pizzeria. The have a courtesy
van that will pick you and return you to the hotel. A great deal.
We arrived at Naples too late to take the Curreri bus to Sorrento so we used Michy Morra who runs a VW minibus and charges $70 for a couple. He is at michymorra@libero.it. A very professional and friendly person who speaks a little English.
We found the audio guides at Pompeii and Herculaneum fantastic, worth
way more than the 5 euros. They describe about 70 specific sites and have
background information on dozens of special topics, you can go in any
order, and they last at least 6 hours.
Bill Epler <email>
Newcastle, WA USA 05/01/03
Bad & good restaurants in Venice
Warning of restaurant in Venice. Directly across the street from one of
Rick's hotels (Hotel Fontana) is a pizzeria (I think Roberto's is the name) — it wraps around the corner. It is by far the worst meal I have had in
years. Other customers were also complaining. Do yourself a favor and bypass
this one. On the other hand, directly over the 1st little bridge going toward
St. Mark's (again from Hotel Fontana), on the left hand side, is a great
little place to eat. Very friendly waiters and excellent food.
Al Peters <email>
Hermosa Beach, CA USA 04/29/03
Bad experience in CT
We had a disappointing experience at one of Rick's favorite hotels in Vernazza.
We checked in to a triple room at Trattoria Gianni's, which was the only
room available when we arrived late at night. Gladly, we agreed to the $70
for that room, price circled on a rate card which was given to us by Michael.
The next morning, we were moved to a room quoted at $35 by the woman (not
Marisa) who arranged the room change. Several days later at checkout, the
infamous Marisa presented a bill for $70 (first night) plus additional nights
at $50 each, for what we had been promised was a $35 room. My calm protests
were met with a turned back and the production of a rate card showing entirely
different (all higher) rates. None of the rooms listed at $50, by the way.
Fearing that my passport might be withheld if I didn't accede, I paid the
requested price. We left Vernazza feeling duped by the Trattoria Gianni.
The good news: All of the other info and tips in your guidebook were
helpful and right on! Thank you. We hope to take one of your tours one
day but this year, we had to travel in March-April.
<email>
USA 04/28/03
Hotels/restaurants
Loved the Hotel Alimandi in Rome and Hotel Pasquale in Monterossa. The guidebook
doesn't adequately describe the difficulty of the hikes, particularly from
Monterossa to Vernazza. It is worth it but not for the sedentary or those
afraid of heights, etc. The Hotel Ala in Venice was also good. We enjoyed
the Italian. Recommend the Arula restaurant in Rome near St. Peter's. The
breakfast at the Hotel Alimandi near the Vatican is superb and worth a trip
back.
<email>
USA 04/26/03
Rome Archeobus
The Archeobus in Rome is best done by reservation. This is not told to you
when you call them to find out where the kiosk is, etc. Person at the kiosk
was not friendly.
<email>
USA 04/26/03
Venice and Florence
I would like to pass on one good experience and one bad experience. First
the good: stayed at Accademia B&B just feet from the Accademia Bridge in
Venice. A great location, room and price, but the best part was the owner,
Luca. Our stay was perfect, but upon checking out I felt I was being over-charged,
but didn't say anything because I didn't have my email confirmation handy.
Short story is Luca sent us an email and volunteered we were charged in
error and offered a refund! The refund arrived last week in the mail; we
found the honest man!!
The bad experience was being robbed outside the train station in Florence.
My wife had something thrown on her and someone offered to help her with
the mess. When she took off her travel pack and set it between her feet
, it was gone in a minute. This all occured in the TI across the street
from the station! The lady behind the desk did a wonderful impression
of Sgt Schultz: "I saw nothing." When we reread Rick's book, we saw the
warning.
John S.
Clarksburg, MD USA 04/22/03
Rome, Capri & Positano
We had a wonderful 10 day trip to Italy at the end of March. We used RS
2003 Italy for our trip and found many useful tips.
In Rome we stayed near Piazza Navona at the San Pantaleo Residence (www.residenzasanpantaleo.com/homeeng.htm) for 105 Euro/night. The rooms all open onto an interior courtyard which made for a very quiet night's sleep.
We stayed two nights in Capri at a wonderful B & B: Tirrenia Roberts, 90 Euros/night (www.capri.net/home/en/card.php?type=hotel&cod=184). We had a wonderful time but felt we could have used another day. Our only regret was that a number of shops were closed; most were scheduled to open April 1st.
Positano was wonderful as well. We stayed at Casa Maresca (www.casamaresca.it) for 75 Euros/night. The hotel is steps away from a store and several restaurants. One of the owners is an Englishman (Paul Clark) who came to Positano 26 years ago on vacation and has never left. He met and married his current wife in Positano. From there, we day tripped via the SITA bus to Amalfi and Ravelo and spent one day lying on the beach and swimming (in March, no less).
Rick is not very enamored with either Capri or Positano. We don't think
that Capri or Positano would be enjoyable in the high season but we would
highly recommend both in the shoulder seasons.
Anne & Ken Carlson <email>
Kirkland, WA USA 04/19/03
Eating in Chianti
We are in Malpensa waiting on our flight back to the States tomorrow. What
a glorious trip! Anyone who travels to Italy without Rick's books (we brought
Italy, Rome, and Venice) is a fool. They were invaluable additions to our
trip. One note, if you are travelling in Chianti, we found a fabulous restaurant
last night. Osteria La Panzanelle, halfway between Radda and Panzano, in
Lucarelli (I think — it is Luca something). Great food, even better prices.
Our trip was great and was made much better by Rick and his wonderful advice.
More to come...
Paul Ferrell <email>
Eagan, MN USA 04/19/03
Florence
Florence was great. Hotel Bellettini was clean and close to the Duomo. Maria
and Serena were very helpful and can give restaurant recommendations, help
with museum reservations, etc. Get reservations when you arrive for David
and Uffizi, don't worry about getting into the rest. Rick's tour of the
Uffizi is great especially the humorous comments.
Alan <email>
Draper, UT USA 04/18/03
La Tonnarella in Sorrento
We spent 3 nights recently at La Tonnarella in Sorrento, and the staff was
lovely in many respects. The owner may be disinterested, as Rick's book
says, but we only had great dealings with the staff. The view from the dining
room and the terrace rooms was marvelous. There was even an internet connection
at a reasonable cost in the lobby. Food was good too. We would recommend
it highly.
Rhonda and Linda
Winston Salem, NC USA 04/18/03
Changes in Italy
We travel to Italy often, usually yearly. Since the Jubilee Year of 2000,
many places have changed so be prepared for some surprises. For the most
part the changes were minor, but even Rick can't update his books monthly
so don't be surprised if the ticket office for the Coloseum has once again
moved a few yards. The ticket booth for Santa Croce in Firenze is now at
the left side (facing the church) and for the Pitti Palace, it's on the
far right. There were other similar changes and doubtless will be more.
Charles M. Luther
USA 04/12/03
tour of Pompeii
In March 2003 we were in Italy and went to Pompeii. We were apprehensive
because all of the guidebooks advise that anyone who stops and offers to
assist you or offers a tour is probably trying to scam you. Not to mention
that the PA system in the Naples and Circumvesuviana train stations constantly
announced to watch for pickpockets.
We ignored several offers of maps, tours, rides to Pompeii, etc. When we got to Pompeii, however, we were stopped by an attractive young man offering tours of Pompeii. For some reason, we stopped and talked to him. I had my "torn out" Pompeii pages from my Rick Steve's book and was scanning them while I tried to decide about the tour. The "guide" then announced that he was the guide in my book. I noticed then that he was wearing a name tag that said Gaetano Manfredi. Rick does recommend a guide by this name.
We hired him and I am so glad we did. I assume he really was Gaetano Manfredi, but if he wasn't, it really didn't matter because he gave us a wonderful tour of Pompeii, with several interesting insights. After the tour was over, we were more than happy to pay his asking price. By the way, we were there during the off season and he charged us less than the fee quoted in the book.
He was wearing black jeans and a black leather jacket. He had longish
black hair and was wearing blue lensed sunglasses with large "chrome"
frames. We nicknamed him "little Elvis" because of his slight build. As
we toured Pompeii, we passed several tour groups and the other guides
all called him "Gaetano" so I guess it really was him.
Sherry <email>
Hernando, MS USA 04/11/03
Hotel Italia, Rome
Rome’s Hotel Italia is great for the most part, with good location, excellent
rooms, helpful staff, and a very nice buffet breakfast. However, my first
room, before I requested a change, was in a rather isolated area down a
dark, dismal courtyard corridor. It was very quiet but made me a little
nervous. By the way, the hotel is on the second floor — go into the corridor,
into the last door on the right, and up the stairs or elevator.
Doris deLespinasse <email>
Corvallis, OR USA 04/10/03
Rome Hotel Oceania
We stayed at the Hotel Oceania in March 2003 per your recommendations. It
was lovely and very reasonable. Armondo and his son Stefano were perfect
hotel host/owners. Hostaria Romana was a fabulous restaurant.
Bill Horton
North Mankato, MN USA 04/10/03
Food Shopping in Siena
The Siena produce market behind city hall is no more – thanks, one local
told me, to “the wisdom of the city father.” However, one end of the Wednesday
morning market has some great produce and flower stalls. I got there by
pointing to someone’s flowers and asking “Dove?” This market is huge and
crowded – I think all of Siena’s 60,000 citizens must be there. It’s primarily
clothing but has some kitchenware, pottery, etc.
A fun place to browse among local specialties and find picnic supplies
in Siena is the Consorzio Agrario Siena store near Piazza G. Matteotti.
It’s a sort of supermarket of local specialties, evidently an outlet for
a century-old farm cooperative. They sold me small quantities of excellent
cheeses and olives, and had a wide selection of wines and olive oils.
But I wouldn’t buy their tired looking wrapped produce or baked goods,
with so many grand specialty produce shops and bakeries available.
Doris deLespinasse <email>
Corvallis, OR USA 04/10/03
Rome convent
My husband, eleven-year-old twins and I visited Rome in March 2003. Rome
is a fabulous city, and if we could figure out a way to live there, we'd
do it in a second. Rick Steves' guidebook was indispensable for everything
we did, but I must let readers know about a recommended accommodation that
was wonderful. We stayed at Suore di Santa Elisabetta, a convent near St.
Maria Maggiore and Termini. It was lovely, with a large, family-size room
for us, and friendly, though not well-spoken in English, nuns. It was a
delightful experience, and very economical for a family of four. I'm not
sure if they have a/c, so summer travelers might want to inquire before
making reservations.
Annette Szlachta McGinn <email>
Broomall, PA USA 04/10/03
Hostel in Sorrento
I visited Sorrento in the off season this year (February 2003) and loved
it. The city was fantastic (if a bit touristy) and well worth the visit,
as well as being a much nicer place to stay than Naples. One warning: avoid
Ostello le Serine hostel! While it was the only truly cheap option in Sorrento
and I found the accommodations to be on par with other youth hostels, the
staff was beyond rude and extremely unhelpful in all regards. I also think
it should be mentioned in the book that the dorm rooms are "mixed dorms." I was informed of this by the lady at the front desk that all of the dorms
were mixed, although my friend visited later in March and had an all-female
room. My friend also found the employees to be unhelpful. Perhaps Rick should
revisit this place. Otherwise, I found his suggestions to be extremely useful.
I have become a Rick Steves disciple!
AEM <email>
USA 04/10/03
Levanto, Cinque Terre
I am in Levanto right now, a strategic place to stay just north of the Cinque
Terre. Not only that, but it's a very nice village as well, with a long
sandy beach (the only one in the area ), well known by surfers. Plus, I
had the best pizza in my life at Taverna Garibaldy, located in a very nice
pedestrian "via." I also absolutely loved their desserts! I suggest everyone
visit Levanto and Taverna Garibaldi
Brian 'O Neall <email>
MN USA 04/09/03
Rome & Venice Family Accomodations
My husband and I, our 3 kids (ages 10, 8 and 5) plus my parents just returned
April 2 from Paris, Venice and Rome. In Italy there were rainbow-colored
PACE flags everywhere and some anti-war graffitti but we experienced no
hostility. We highly recommend Hotel Italia in Rome for great location,
clean rooms, pleasant breakfast and most of all, excellent help from Francesca
and Andre. Also rented a wonderful 2-bedroom flat through Hotel Galleria
in Venice which was perfect with the kids. Unfortunately, my parents had
to stay in a very small double room off-site from Hotel Galleria. Other
than that room, Venice was wonderful.
Jayne Ness <email>
Birmingham, AL USA 04/06/03
Cinque Terre & Levanto
I just spent a lovely vacation in the Cinque Terre. I stayed in a family
hotel in Levanto called Villa Margherita by the sea (www.villamargherita.net).
The hotel is not expensive and some rooms have a patio and view. Villa Margherita
offers nice accomodation with lovely renewed rooms. I noticed that some
of them are really large and bathrooms are easy to use with very wide mirrors.
Had a great time making excursions all around the five small villages.
Met many people angry with some locals for giving away their room even
though they thought had a confirmed reservation.
Robert Fantoni
New York, NY USA 04/05/03
Italy/accomodations
My sister and I just returned from two weeks in Southern Italy. In Sorrento
we stayed at the 3 star Il Nido Hotel. It is family run and the service
was the best through the whole trip. The hotel and restaurant is 15 min.
from the town center up on a hill. My room overlooked the Bay of Naples.
They run a free shuttle service. The food at the restaurant is delicious
and inexpensive. I made all the reservations by email and Gianni responded
within 24hrs. The address is: info@ilnido.it They have a very informative
web site.
Rick was right on about Naples. It is not a tourist destination. We found it dirty and busy and the Cappella Sansevero was difficult to find with the map from his book. Get a map from the train station. However, the Veiled Christ is magnificant.
In Rome we stayed at the Hotel Italia off Via Nazionale. It was clean and efficient and in a great location. The staff is very knowledgable and friendly. We would stay there again.
At the end of the trip, we stayed at Hotel Montreal. This is listed in
Rick's book. My room was rather plain and in need of new paint, but comfortable
and the hotel is very secure as we found all of them to be. The war started
when we were still there, we had no problems at all.
Elaine Charles <email>
Wilton, CA USA 04/04/03
Pictures of Cortona and Tuscany
For fans of Tuscany and Cortona, I have a few pages of photos that can be
viewed online. These are from my time living in Cortona and traveling around
Tuscany. Go to: http://hometown.aol.com/upcoevents/viewsofcortna.html
Patrick <email>
Boston, ma USA 04/01/03
Enough is Enough in Cinque Terre
Rick: Perhaps too much of a good thing. We had been to Vernazza in July
1996. Spent a week in Monterosso. In July 2001 we were taken aback by the
changes, especially in Vernazza. To see it so crowded with Americans toting
your guidebook gave us pause. The Cinqueterre seemed so overwhelmed.
Also, on Capri while we were swimming in the Blue Grotto after the tour
boats were done for the day, we saw one of your guidebooks floating face
up in the water at the entrance!
John Gillen <email>
Yountville, CA USA 04/01/03
Locanda San Trovaso Hotel in Venice
We recently visited Venice and want to give an outstanding recommendation
for the Locanda San Trovaso, one of the RS recommended hotels. It's a small,
family run hotel with lots of character and a very quiet location. The rooms,
although small, are immaculately clean and nicely decorated. The owner and
his son were very helpful in making dinner reservations, etc. Again, highly
recommended!
Kevin Hollister <email>
Madrid, Spain 03/30/03
recent trip
We just returned from 2 weeks in Italy, and used the Rick Steve's guide
for all our hotel reservations. We found all our hotels to be as advertized,
and getting around the various cities to be so much easier with the guide.
Thanks for a great vacation!
Diana Moore <email>
Pine Valley, CA USA 03/29/03
Siena dinner @ Locando Garibaldi
Just got back from a quick week in Italy. We have used Rick Steve's guides
for 5 years in our travels to Europe. It is by far your best friend in Europe.
Stayed at Albergo Guerrato and (as usual) Rick was right. Roberto was friendly
and sincere. The room was spotless and well located. If you are a nervous
American concerned about traveling in Italy you need not be. We were there
as war broke out. There were peace "pace" rallys in Florence (mostly college
kids) and everyone was polite and kind. We had several Italians start up
conversation with us to tell us how much the liked Americans and whether
they agree or disagree with the war, we were treated with kindness. We felt
very welcomed. Seina Dinning, Locando Garibaldi was a real disappointment.
There was only one other customer (a Rick Stever) in the place the entire
time we ate. no need to "arrive early to get a good table". The house wine
tasted metalic, the prociutto was stale (hard and dry) and the place was
untidy. We could not wait to leave. Please check it out before you recommend
it again.
Jennifer & Dave Weir <email>
Thousand Oaks, CA USA 03/26/03
Rome
The Hotel Nardizzi Americana on via Firenze was our haven during our stay
in Rome. Very friendly and courteous staff that were very helpful when my
wife's wallet dissapeared on the metro.
Mark Rediger <email>
Norfolk, VA USA 03/25/03
Italy
My daughter and I just returned from spring break in Italy using Rick Steves'
Italy where we could. Vernazza was fabulous as was the hike to Corniglia
and the other towns...a highlight of our trip. Could have definitely used
more time there. In Venice, was disappointed that San Giorgio had no 8AM
mass with the Gregorian chants...had really looked forward to that. On to
Bologna, not mentioned, has fabulous architecture, a huge leaning tower,
wondrous food (Il Tofino in particular),and the Siette Chiese incredible
and Santa Maria della Vita the perfect church with lifesized terracotta
sculptures and art by Nicolo`. The kilometric ticket is no longer available,
we just bought ours as we traveled. A word to the wise..pack light and then
pack lighter. We returned on Mar.16 encountered nothing but politenes and
warmth. There were pace signs all over the place, but not anti-americanism.
The Italians better than most, realize that people have little control over
how their government decides things. I love Rick's attitude and have been
using his guides for the past 12 years. Keep up the good work.
Lynn Forster <email>
Kingwood, Tx USA 03/22/03
Italy
I traveled in Feb. with a friend and our two 11 year old daughters. We had
a great experience traveling from Rome to Venice. We did have a learning
experience with catching the correct train from Rome to Siena, but we made
it! In Rome we stayed at Residenza Cellini — our quad room was very clean
and the staff was extremely friendly. Location is good, walking distance
to train station, and a short walk to the Metro. We did experience some
street noise so earplugs would be a good idea.
Stayed at two hotels in Siena, both clean with friendly staff. I prefer
the Pensione Palazzo Ravizza over the Hotel Duomo. We had a 6:40am flight
out of Malpensa (Milan) so chose to take our chances with a hotel not
listed in Rick's guidebook. The 3 star Hotel La Pista (www.lapistahotel.it)
was a great find just 5 min. from the airport. They offer a free shuttle
to and from the airport and have an excellent restaurant. We will definitely
stay there again!
Cris Cassady <email>
Edmonds, WA USA 03/17/03
Italy
Just returned from 2 weeks in Italy. Rick's suggestions were great, as usual.
Stayed at Hotel Speronari in Milan. It was relatively quiet (for a big city).
Orvieto, in Umbria, is a wonderful homebase for exploring Umbria and Tuscany. It is a great hilltown with easy access from the train (funicular to the old town at the top of the hill). We stayed at the convent there (Instituto SS DOmenicane). It was very nice for only 42 euros per night for 2. The only problem was a fair amount of street noise and bells ringing all night. It is on a surprisingly busy road, so bring some earplugs.
If you're brave, rent a car in Orvieto (Hertz is by the train station) and drive a bit in the country. Deruta was one of our favorite towns. Hardly any tourists up in the old town. You can buy beautiful hand-painted ceramics directly from the artists. Had one of our best meals at the only restaurant in the old town (can't remember the name). After Orvieto, Siena seemed overrated.
We also spent time in Vernazza. What a wonderful place (at least in the
off season). Rented a room right on the square from Franca Maria. The
hiking is great! The stretches from Corniglia to Vernazza and Vernazza
to Monterossa are pretty rigorous. I wouldn't advise those 2 walks if
you have bad knees, but the other 2 hikes are easy and nice.
Marcia Dorwin <email>
Spokane, WA USA 03/16/03
Italy
My three daughters and I stayed at the Hotel Basilea in Firenze, the St
Marta in Milan, and Cervo at the airport in Milan. They were all very convenient
to sightsee from and true to Rick's suggestions. Our stay in the Priola
area with our relatives was great. However I think Rick needs to visit some
of the towns near Ceva, Garessio, and Priola. It is quite beautiful country.
Not much tourism but very small-town Italy. People are very friendly and
especially the young speak good English. We did hire a private taxi service
in Milan for our time was very short (5 days). It was cost efficient because
there were four of us. I would recommend this to any group of four or more
if time is a problem. Keep up the good work!
Nel Beaudry <email>
Hadley, Ma USA 03/16/03
Pickpockets on the Circumvesuviana
When we got to Naples, the Circumvesuviana was on strike (not unusual).
We waited for the first train, at 1:30 PM. Since there had been a strike
all morning, lots of people were waiting for the first train and many had
luggage. When the train arrived, there was a lot of confusion and 4 men
actually got off right before the train left the station. We then discovered
that at least one man had his wallet stolen (they had actually helped him
onto the train with his luggage, he had quite a lot) and another had a close
call. Moral: if there's been a strike and you take the first train of the
day, be extra careful !
Kitty Knox <email>
West Chester, PA USA 03/13/03
Rome and Tivoli
We spent 3 days in Rome. The Hotel Aberdeen was fine, and the restaurants
in the book near the Spanish Steps are quite good. If you go to Tivoli to
see Villa D'Este, one comment: don't go all the way to the end of the line
on the bus. It's a 20 minute uphill walk back to the Villa. Look for the
piazza where there is a park on the left and get off there. Maybe some busses
end there, but ours didn't.
Kitty Knox <email>
West Chester, PA USA 03/13/03
Sorrento and Capri
We spent 4 days in Sorrento and had two absolutely superb and inexpensive
dinners at the O Parrocchiano restaurant on Corso Italia, mentioned in Rick's
book. Also, as most of the hotels in Sorrento were closed (it was February),
we found a great B&B: the Casa Astarita. We recommend it highly. Last, if
you go to Capri, do take the bus to the Blue Grotto — watching the event
from above is worth as much as going in ! This was our 4th trip to Italy,
we've used Rick's books all the time, and we love it.
Kitty Knox <email>
West Chester, PA USA 03/13/03
Firenze recommendations
I am in Firenze right now and find it amazing that you do not list the most
incredible two hotels, both owned by the same family. They are the Soggiorno
Katti House and the Soggiorno Anna Maria. Both are located on Via Faenze,
near the train station and the Central Market. The proprietors are like
family and welcome their guest with open arms. Web site: http://www.kattihouse.com,
Via Faenze 21, Firenze 50123, tel: 055 213410, proprietors: Puzzella & Francesco.
Anthony T. Di Lullo <email>
San Diego, CA USA 03/13/03
Outstanding lodging in Florence
Please check out Pensione Maria Luisa de Medici @ 1 via del Corso in Florence.
The most amazing place, feels like staying in an artist's atelier-chandeliers
on tables, statuary everywhere, fres-coes in the stairwells, Chiesa di Dante
out the back window, and all only 2 blocks from Duomo and Piazza della Signoria.
Outstanding concierge, Evelyn will bend over backwards to make your stay
the most positive and enjoyable you could ever have. What a gem. It's mentioned
in the Feb' 03 Frommer's Budget Travel magazine, along with my favorite
Venetian inn, the Hotel Galleria.
Colleen S <email>
St Petersburg, FL USA 03/07/03
Cinque Terre in February
I loved the Cinque Terre! My wife and I stayed in Vernazza as Rick recommended.
What a lovely, charming, and relaxing place. I will definitely return. We
enjoyed the 2 easiest hikes, especially the Via del Amore. We stayed in
Vernazza and rented a room from www.francamaria.com for 70 Euros. Franca
Maria's son Giovanni showed us to our room and seemed to be in a huge hurry
to get us in, take our cash up front, and insist that we leave by 10 AM.
Otherwise, we enjoyed the place. The room was simple, but very well-located
with a great view of the harbor center. The seafood was excellent at Trattoria
del Capitano (Rick's recommendation) and the owner was very friendly to
us. Rick's book is more complete than Frommer's on the Cinque Terre.
David W. <email>
Cary, NC USA 03/07/03
Italy — OK! No Problem!
The guidebook for Italy was great. Once we learned the two key Italian phrases "OK!" and "No Problem!" the language barrier was quickly overcome.
We stayed at the Beehive in Rome and enjoyed it very much.
We also enjoyed our stay in Sorrento at the Hotel Mignon Meuble. Sorrento is known for it's intaglio (inlaid wood) artwork. There are a lot of shops selling the stuff but we especially enjoyed going to "The Arch" and watching Signor Gaetano D'Esposito actually working with a hundred year old jigsaw and then with a handsaw carving out incredibly intricate patterns. As Signora D'Esposito proudly exclaimed, "My husband, he's the best!" (and Signora is a super nice lady too!).
Above all, Rick's guidebook helped us to achieve an attitude toward travel
that proved to be the most important thing we took with us. Rick Steves,
lei sono l'uomo! (You are the man!)
Will Cummings <email>
Kent, WA USA 03/06/03
Italy
We spent 2 wonderful weeks in Italy at the end of October, 2002. We started
in Rome and stayed at the Hotel Aberdeen (in Rick's book). It was great;
loved the internet access and helpful staff.
After leaving Rome, we drove during the rest of our trip. Driving really wasn't hard at all. The Italians were very helpful and forgiving.
We loved the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii is unbelievable. I could have spent a whole day there. We even saw Mel Gibson while we were there!
We stayed at the Hotel La Tonnarella (in Rick's book) in Sorrento and loved our view of the city at night.
Civita de Bagnoregio is unbelievable. It is like stepping back in time.
We were really not that impressed with Siena. San Gimignano is touristy but being there on market day was fascinating.
Florence: We were blown away by the David statue; truly magnificent. Did not have to wait in any lines in Florence. We saw pickpockets in action on a very crowded bus. Two Italian ladies alerted us to them. They tried to slide a map in and out of my husband's pocket but did not get anything of value. Once they knew we were on to them, they got off at the next stop.
Cinque Terre was a favorite. We hiked the whole trail between the five towns and it was one beautiful view after another. It is difficult at times but very do-able. We ate at the Ristorante Belvedere in Monterosso. We had seafood steamed in a clay pot; it was a dining experience like I have never had before.
We ended our trip in Venice and stayed there 2 nights. It is so great.
I just loved walking around the city and a gondola ride at night is something
that everyone should experience. You can't go wrong with Italy and Rick's
book as a base for your exploring!!!
Christine Raabe <email>
Brookfield, WI USA 03/05/03
Worst hotel in Milan
Don't stay at the Starhotel Anderson in Milan. This place is the filthiest,
most rundown hotel I've ever stayed in and the staff was rude. Save your
money and aggravation by not staying at this place. Orbitz advertises this
hotel as a four star, but it's not even close!
Roxy Rockefeller
Chicago, IL USA 03/04/03
Santa Margherita Ligure
Traveling off-season is much better if you want to stay in a Rick Steves-recommended
hotel! Once more we have been in our favourite Ligurian town: S. Margherita
Ligure. This time we avoided the luxurious sea view hotels along the promenade,
and chose to stay at the Nuova Riviera Hotel. Famiglia Sabini welcomes everybody,
takes excellent care of you, and gives plenty of information (much more
than a tourist office!). I highly recommend it. Their website is www.nuovariviera.com.
Jenny and Norman <email>
Chicago, IL USA 03/03/03
Hotels in Florence & near Malpensa
Instead of Hotel Basilea in Florence, try Locanda dei Guelfi two doors down
(www.locandadeiguelfi.com). I loved it! Well appointed and cheap in February!
For a hotel near Milan's Malpensa Airport, I loved Hotel Cervo. Easy, cheap,
and great food!
Kathy <email>
North Attleboro, Ma USA 02/27/03
In Rick We Trust
I agree with what everyone is saying: trust Rick Steves' guidbooks. I've
vacationed in several countries using them and they were invaluable. Especially
his hotel recommendations; I'd feel lost now booking blind w/o Rick's opinions.
That's why I have to gripe about the lack of more coverage of the Tuscan hill towns. After doing Italy's big city circuit, I'm planning a trip to smaller towns and I wish there were more hotel recommendations for Tuscany. The 2003 book is a bit better than my 2001, but I'd like to see an entire book devoted to Tuscany/ Umbria. I realize Rick can't cover every village in Europe, but his Italy book is missing what many other books spend entire chapters on. Maybe he could hire more staff to cover these areas (I'll volunteer!) But they're still great. The maps in his books aren't meant to show every detail, just where the attractions are and how to get around; you should get a separate detailed map for the rest.
Some of the other complaints I'm reading are from people who obviously didn't pay much attention to Rick: travelers who grumble about crowds and heat when Rick advises going off-season (I've never needed air conditioning in Europe); people not checking out rooms first or settling for what they're given, then moaning about them; or those encountering 'rudeness' where there is probably a reason for it (a demanding, superior attitude comes to mind). Remember that we are guests there, whether we pay a bit for the privilage or no.
Don't just read Rick's hotel recommendations — follow his philosophy.
Plunge into the culture. Get the videos and SEE where you're going and
know what to expect. Be polite and always say please and thank you, preferably
in the local language. Go softly through the 'back door' and you'll have
a great time in Europe.
Dave <email>
Washington, D.C., VA USA 02/19/03
Palio in Siena
Rick mentions the Palio horse race held twice each summer around the Il
Campo plaza in Siena. In a nutshell, we planned our Italy trip last summer
around being in Siena for the July Palio, and we were very happy we did.
It is an absolutely spectacular event: a medieval parade, singing, and the
whole city decked out in the contrada flags, scarves and banners going crazy — but
you have to be well prepared for it. When we saw it, it was very, very sunny
and hot. If you watch it for free from the center of the Campo, get there
several hours early to hold a space to stand near the outer rim where you
can probably see much better. You will be packed in like sardines, but that
is part of the fun. Bring lots of water, but note that once it gets near
race time, you can't leave the center of the Campo to go to the bathroom
or anywhere else for that matter.
If you want a serious splurge alternative to the sweltering center of
Il Campo, you can pay $100-$200 and way way up (depending upon how, when
and where you get tickets — available through some Siena hotels and all
over the Internet) for a bleacher seat or a standing or sitting spot in
one of the balconies in the buildings surrounding the Campo. This is far
more comfortable, gives you a better view of the race and parade, and
is a worthwhile splurge for a once-in-a-lifetime event. Buy tickets as
far in advance as possible, as there didn't seem to be many available
in the few days before the Palio. The Palio al Siena videotape is a worthy
souvenir of the race (along with the cheap copies of the contrada flags
and other items sold in front of the Duomo and all over town), and the
theatre showing it really does give the "Rick Steves Discount."
Les <email>
FL USA 02/18/03
Italy 2002
I will never travel without a Rick Steves guide! It was the most helpful
of all the research I did for the trip. The maps are not great (but then,
he admits this). Buy a good one when you get there. If you don't do anything
else before you travel, read Rick Steves! I've lent my 2002 Italy guide
to several friends and they agree. As I read my journal from the trip last
summer, I keep finding comments like " Rick Steves strikes again"! Especially
as we bypassed LONG lines to museums with our reservations numbers in hand.
The fact that he includes gelato as one of the main expenses to consider
for a trip to Italy got me hooked right away! I had to travel in August,
which Rick warns against...because he's right! Many things are closed. But
even so, it was a fantastic experience made better by some solid advice.
Italy
scraprat <email>
Texas USA 02/18/03
Hotel Tavolozza in Positano
Positano, Italy re: hotel Tavolozza.... I am writing to highly recommend
Hotel Tavolozza (spelling may be a bit off) run by Celeste and her family.
You have it listed in the guidebook among other recommendations, and I think
it should rise to the top and be your ver top choice. After spending more
than a month in Italy, and staying at many of the places you recommended,
my family and I stayed at Celeste's place. It was the highlight of our trip.
Her hotel is located 20 feet from the very posh and expensive Hotel Sireneuse — both share the perfect unobstructed view of the ocean looking out over
the main square and town. The rooms are extremely clean and have recently
been redone (new plumbing is great). What truly makes this place special
is Celeste and her family, and the wonderful care they show their guests.
We have various special requests and they could not have been more helpful — they made us feel very welcome.
Piper Parry <email>
Del Mar, CA USA 02/17/03
hotel galleria website
just to let you know — hotel galleria in venice's website is www.hotelgalleria.it,
not www.galleria.it
Rachel <email>
New York, NY USA 02/16/03
Don't miss Siena overnight.....
We stayed at Hotel Cinque Donzelle, a budget place very near the main plaza,
and it was simple but priceless walking out there once the crowds had gone.....
Don Stadler <email>
London, UK 02/09/03
That's Venice....
Venice writes it's own rules because they get 10 million tourists a year
and is overwhelmed. There are many exceptions, but when going to Venice
you have to realize that you are probably going to get ripped-off once in
a while. They know that you probably won't be back and in any case there
will always be another tourist along. Despite that it remains one of the
can't-miss places. Even with the sometimes 'interesting' smelly canals,
ripoffs, and all. I advise going off season and using one of Ricks listings
or a B&B. Or stay in Padova, which is wonderful.
Don Stadler <email>
London, UK 02/09/03
Tuscany & Umbria
An update and two comments. During our trip last October and November, we
planned no making Orvietto a stopover between Siena and Rome. Unfortuately,
we found that the baggage depository had been closed due to police order.
It may re-open, but word to the wise.
My other comments are directed at Siena and San Giminano. San "G" is
pretty but a tourist trap. In a word, it's skippable. Siena is nice, but
for our money not worth more than 24 hours — probably even a day trip
from Florence would suffice for those whose tastes run toward the urban.
R.J. Smyk <email>
Chicago, IL USA 02/07/03
It's a law
We were very disappointed with the Hotel Belle Arti in Venice. Since Italy
was having a heat wave during our visit, we specifically asked before booking
if they had air conditioning that worked. After being assured that they
did, we paid more for our room than two nights in our previous hotel in
Venice right on the Grand Canal. We arrived to an incredibly hot room and
no towels. The staff repeatedly told us that the air-conditioning was working
despite the fact that our thermometer showed that it wasn't. When we complained
to the manager the next morning after a sleepless night, we were told that "it is a law in Italy that air-conditioning doesn't work when it is hot
out". After they repeated this message, we moved to the one star hotel,
Hotel Ai do Mori. There we encountered working air-conditioning, and a friendly,
helpful staff.
Ada Haynes <email>
Cookeville, TN USA 02/04/03
Levanto, the doorway to the Cinque Terre
I went to this beautiful small fishing village in December 2002. It was
my little paradise for the 3 days I spent there. My wonderful B&B hosts
showed me a few sites along the beach where I could relax . Speaking about
my B&B hosts, I'd like to recommend them to any of you planning to go to
Cinque Terre. The people at the Villa Margherita were very friendly and
helpful. Their guest house is clean, comfortable, and beautiful, some rooms
have patio with a great view of the ocean. I was lucky to have the whole
house to myself since I was the only guest they had at that time. The house
is a little bit uphill from the beach, but the walk was enjoyable. Visit
their website at www.villamargherita.net. Their email is info@villamargherita.net.
Paul Barber
London, UK 02/01/03
Venice Area B&B
I can confirm the wonderful hospitality of Silvio and Beatrice. They picked
us up at the station, they cooked for us, and we went out to dinner with
their friends. They are very friendly and speak excellent English. Staying
with them is like staying with friends.
Karina Baxter
Denver, CO USA 01/31/03
Please consider Trento
When I first lived in Trento I would not have put it into a Rick Steves
guide, but now I think it has more on the ball than Bolzano does. In recent
years they have added an interesting Diocsene museum in the Cathedral and
have opened a wonderful below-street museum showing the Roman past of 'Tridentum'.
Marvelous. The food is good and cheap, the city is full of wonderful frescoes
on the buildings, and the mountain views are almost as good as those in
Bolzano. AND there is one of the best bargain hotels in Italy, the Hotel
Venezia on the main piazza. A two-floor walkup at minimum, but if you're
lucky you can get a room with a million euro view over the Neptune fountain
(lit at night) and overlooking the cathedral. For all of 29 Euros a night
for a double with nice bath! BTW, if you stillwant a South Tyrol town I
would use Bressanone over Bolzano. Bolzano has three great stops. The Cathedral
is worth seeing, the Otzi museum is great, and there is a gelateria north
of the Parkhotel Laurin (???) which might be the best north of Florence.
Lines around the block on summer night.....
Don Stadler <email>
London, UK 01/22/03
Italy 2003 Transportation Update
My husband and I travelled through Italy with the help of Rick Steve's 2003
Italy book during January 2003. The book was a great help and our trip was
wonderful. Off season travel was an excellent choice for us — no crowds or
lines anywhere, Ufizzi included. There is one important bit of transportation
information that is out of date. The Kilometric ticket has been discontinued.
For us, buying our tickets as we went along worked perfectly.
Cassie
Minneapolis, MN USA 01/21/03
Hotel Ginerva in Napoli
I was disappointed with Hotel Ginerva in Napoli listed in your book. We
were charged 30 Euros over your published price for a triple room on the
5th of January 2003. The owners were VERY RUDE. They gave us a bath rug
when we requested a third towel, which we were entitled to as it was a triple
room. The bath rug was not as a result of any miscommunication, they were
able to speak fluent English when they chose to — such as informing us
that we would not get our passports until check-out, demanding cash only
payment and demanding an extra 10 Euros to keep our luggage for 5 hours
after check-out! I would avoid this place altogether.
Rama Padmanabhan
San Francisco, CA USA 01/20/03
In defense of Cinque Terre
In October I visited Vernazza in CT for the third time, having been introduced
to it by Rick several years ago. I love this region but, particularly, this
town. It does things for my soul that I cannot explain. Tourists? What tourists?
Funny, they didn't bother me at all, especially in the evening when most
of them leave Vernazza because they're staying in other towns. The food
is excellent (and I've been to all the local places), the locals couldn't
be more wonderful and helpful (especially when one tries to converse with
them in Italian, butchered through it may be). I love the fact that my hardest
decisions are which of the other towns to dine in that day. I stay at Albergo
Barbara and find Giuseppe the nicest innkeeper — and while it may not be
plush and there may be a lot of stairs to reach the hotel (and I am somewhat
disabled), that all pales in comparison to the big view of the sea from
my room. Perhaps people who are less enchanted with Vernazza arrive with
different expectations. Speaking for myself, the first time I set foot there
in October 2000, I said to myself, "This is exactly how I imagined it." This is an annual pilgrimage for me — see you there in October 2003!
Jillian <email>
Alexandria, VA USA 01/09/03
Santa Margherita Ligure and Florence
Hotel Jolanda in Santa Margherita Ligure is a wonderful place, friendly
staff, large lobby area with comfortable sitting, comfortable rooms, and
terrific dining. Residence Bellevue (Bellevue House) in Florence is a true
GEM with the LARGEST rooms I have seen. Extremely comfortable. Extremely
friendly. Antonio Di Grazia and his wife have kept improving upon their
small hotel since they opened two years ago. Affordable, air conditioned,
private bath, ELBOW ROOM! Great central location. http://bellevue.interfree.it
(no www.) Tell them hello for me.
mark <email>
USA 01/08/03
Milan, Cinque Terre, Siena, Orvieto, Rome
We found Rick's Italy book to be right on 90% of the time. My wife and I
were in Italy the first week of March 2002. We made no hotel reservations
in advance which gave us lots of freedom. We had no problem finding rooms
with minimal effort. When we arrived at a new place we would use Rick's
book and call 1 or 2 hotels from the train station. Just about every hotel
we called had atleast 1 vacancy.
Milan: Definately explore the roof top of the Duomo if you're not afraid of heights.
Cinque Terre: Stayed at Franca Maria's hotel in Vernazza. Very reasonable. The best part of the CT is just relaxing and walking around from village to village. At the beginning of March, there were few tourists and decent weather (about 60 degrees).
Siena: While beautiful, it was crowed with students. Very touristy.
Orvieto: Loved it. We stayed at a convent recommeded in Rick's book. It was quite an experience. The place was immaculate and huge. The nuns were nice. Price was excellent. It was like stepping into a different world.
Rome: Stayed at Hotel Italia. Good location near train station. Reasonable prices, the staff was beyond helpful. Most major sites are within a 20 min walk.
Vatican: If you want to see "the ceiling" at the Vatican Museum, get in line early. Upon entering, go directly to the Sistine Chapel and beat the rush. You'll be virtually alone in the chapel. Then continue back through the museum.
Trains were very easy to navigate. We had an easy time communicating
with almost everyone. Sometimes learning a few words in Italian go a long
way. We felt safe the entire time in Italy. Remember to use common sense
and wear your money belts.
Joseph Lopez <email>
USA 01/06/03
Hotel Milano Varenna Rate increases
Regarding Hotel Milano in Varenna, Lake Como area the rates have gone WAY
UP!If you check their website you'll see it's now 120Euro for double with
lateral view and 130Euro for one of the 4 lake view rooms. Last year we
stayed there for about 80Euro, allrooms were the same price. Last year new
owners took over and said they would be raising the prices. I must say it
is a nice location but probably NOT worth 120-130 euro per night. The rooms
are very small, the baths clean but old and not all rooms have a private
bath.
Karen
Boston, MA USA 01/05/03
Rooms Rome/Florence
When we visited Rome, none of Rick's recommendations for lodging in Rome
were available. We took a shot on our own and booked a room at Hotel Des
Artistes on Via Villafranca (about 5 blocks from Termini Station). Bit pricey
at 130E/night for a queen room, but was handy to the Termini and a metro
stop around the corner. Clean rooms, well appointed bathrooms, good service,
and a relaxing rooftop garden. Free internet access. Office is on the fifth
floor, tiny elevator so light/small luggage probably a good idea (particularly
if walking from the station. Their website is www.hoteldesartistes.com.
In Florence, stay away from the Hotel Consigli. It's advertised as a
3-star and a former "Renaissance palace." Maybe the original ground and
1st floor rooms retain some charm, but the lobby was shabby and our 2nd
floor room (obviously an addition to the building) was a dump at $140E/night.
It was in need of paint, ratty "antique" furniture, thin walls and doors,
VERY little hot water, an elevator (or basement) that reeks of cat urine,
the sound of the lift was enough to jolt you out of bed, no wine at the
bar. Too far away from the center of things, too. Only saving grace....2nd
floor terrace overlooking the river, nice place to greet the morning.
However, judging by the size of the mosquitos we saw in late October,
I wouldn't wanna be anywhere near the river in the summer without a screen
between my room and the bugs. 2-star hotel at best for a 3-star price.
Disappointing, as this was supposed to be our luxury splurge.
Dan <email>
Avon, CT USA 01/02/03