More Feedback on Rick Steves' Italy 2004
Please share any ways we can improve or fix this guidebook. Are there recommendations in this book that disappointed you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
(Please note: Feedback on specific hotels, costs, etc. is deleted yearly after Rick uses it to update his guidebook. However, general, timeless recommendations are left here online.)
I went to Italy for the 4th time this past August. It was the first time
using Rick Steves' guide & it really was invaluable. I bought Mona A Guide in Naples Area
We cannot say enough about the cab driver who wheedled us into allowing him to drive us to Sorrento from Napoli. Our train companions were resolute in their refusal to succumb to his importunings, gravely citing Rick Steves. We felt that they had misunderstood a friendly piece of advice and we relented.
Guilio Manzone, our driver, was personable, helpful and almost every other positive -ful word you can imagine. He drove us around to Pompeii, Herculaneum and Vesuvius a few days later. We were with him for over 9 hours. We saved time, aggravation and worry, We recommend him highly. His mobile is 3391693204,home 0815430252
Paul and Sara <email>
Newburyport , MA USA Thu 12/30/2004
Best Pizza in All of Italy!!!
BEST PIZZA IN ALL OF ITALY!!!
We just returned from a trip to Italy - our sixth trip to Italy. All I can say is - if your're going anywhere near the Cinque Terre, you need to stop in Vernazza! Not only is it the most beautiful of the Cinque Terre towns, but it has a little pizza place that has the best pizza in all of Italy (and we've been all over Italy from the southern tip to the northern- most areas)!!! It is Pizzeria da Ercole located on Via Visconti in Vernazza. You can't miss it - Vernazza has one main cobblestone street leading straight down to the harbor from the train station. Pizzeria da Ercole is on your left heading downward toward the harbor when you leave the train station.
The pizza here is prepared the old way and cooked in a wood-burning oven. It is fantastic!!! And they will put anything you want on it!! I kid you not, this is the best pizza in all of Italy - it beats even Naples which is the birthplace of pizza!!! The place is often crowded with locals (it seems they all eat here)!! If you're lucky, Bartolo will be there - he's the owner's son and speaks perfect English and a very nice Italian gentleman too! Gosh, I can taste the pizza now and I'm ready to head back!!! I love Vernazza - the people are so nice there and so friendly! Ah, Italia!! If you go there and you see Bartolo, tell him that a couple from Houston TX area (East Bernard) recommended Pizzeria da Ercole and said to tell him "hi"!! Can't wait until we go back to the Cinque Terre - it was so wonderful!!! And we'll definitely be headed to the best pizza place in all of Italy!!
Melvin & Jimmie Horelica <email>
East Bernard, TX USA Wed 12/29/2004
Our photos and recommendations for Italy
For anyone interested, we have a web site of our trip to Italy in June of 2001. Aside from the pictures of us having a great time (thanks to our guru St. Rick), we have included a listing of the places we stayed, what they charged us, and our opinionated review of the room. Hope you find it useful in planning your trip. http://users.adelphia.net/~tabacchi/italy.htm
Ken Tabacchi <email>
Redondo Beach, CA USA Tue 12/28/2004
Siena - Hotel Canon D'Oro
Used the book all through Italy. Fantastic B&B's with one exception: Siena. Hotel Canon D'Oro was not up to snuff. Smelled of sewage. Shower drain was plugged. Rude staff. Would look elsewhere in Siena.
Erik
Edmonton, AB CAN Sat 12/25/2004
Hotel Nuovo Milan
My wife and I were in Italy a couple of weeks ago and had a great time. The book was a huge help in finding places to stay as well as things to do. However, in Milan we stayed at the Hotel Nuovo listed in the book. The location was great, just around the corner from all of the shopping and the Duomo. But the hotel was HORRIBLE! Homeless people stay in better places. We were on the third floor and off on the older wing of the building. It was 70 Euros in December with a shared bath. We shared the bath with about 10 rooms. The floor moved underfoot. I mean like 2 inches of play. And looking at that end of the building from the outside, we noticed that the rest of the building was boarded up and abandoned. I would not stay at the Hotel Nuovo in Milan unless you get a room on the newer side of the building.
Ken <email>
Seattle, WA USA Thu 12/23/2004
Great non-touristic cities in Italy
I'm an experienced back-packer and recently came back from a 2 month trip in Italy...I have to say Italy's the most beautiful country I've seen!I had some really great oppurtunities to explore those beautiful small towns where most majority easily skip when they plan to stay less than a month..here are the lists:Pavia:about an hour driving from Milan,I suggest you take a walk around the city center where you will see the Duomo,the university and flee market.There's a really famous Pizzeria right in the center,been told they make the best pizza in the while city.Ask any local if you're into gourmet food!2.Acqui Termi:about 2 hours driving from Milano.The middle-aged town is definetely worth a visit!3.Volterra: I would say it's the best city in Tuscany besides Siena and Florence!It's also a great for art-lovers for there're many hand-made crafts shops!Besides that,Volterra sits right on the hills so you will see the most stunning sunset from here!I believe it'll be a life-time memory.4.Pomaia:Religious or non-religious ,if you're looking for a different experience in Tuscany,you should definetely visit the Lama Tzong Khapa Institute!It's an institute for those who want to follow the buddism.I actually found it by accident but when I first stepped in there I felt like entering to another world...peaceful and spiritual..anyway check out this site to find out more http://www.waytuscany.net/rooten/turismo_religioso_565.htmthese are just my personal suggestions..anyway I'm glad to exchange more ideas if you know other great non touristic-cities or if you wanna ask me any questions regarding my trip, please drop me a line!I'll be glad to advise you!
Christina <email>
Taiwan Wed 12/22/2004
Fresh Produce Markets
Just to vouch for Rick's word, do (with all haste) go to the local markets for fresh fruit, cheeses, bread etc. as part of your Italian experience.It is not about the money you will save; those markets in Firenze and Venezia were unforgettable, fun things to explore, smell and taste Nothing in the world tastes like an Italian peach tasted fresh in Italy, and a simple chunk of cheese can utterly charm you with its Tuscan individuality.Go a few steps out of your way for these markets, and you'll enjoy healthy breakfasts (& picnics) while adding something 'local' to your sensory memories of these great places.
Jonas K <email>
Toronto, Canada Sun 12/19/2004
Villa Margherita , Levanto
I stayed at the Villa Margherita in Levanto last September. It was one of the finest Small Hotels I have ever stayed at. I am not easy to please. I was pleased by its charm, beauty, and great food. I am a real person and I don't know the owners!
Heather <email>
Cleveland, OH USA Fri 12/17/2004
Tuscany and Rome
The agriturisimo in Montalcino was awful. They were so busy with harvesting in October that they couldn't even show us to our room! The place was a mess. Lucca, inside the city, was the best! In Rome, Eternity Tours was fabulous! Worth every cent! They split the 7 hr tour over 2 days!
Lynne Jensen <email>
Stuart, FL USA Sun 12/12/2004
Direction mistake in Venice
My trip to Italy was made very easy with the Italy 2005 guidebook. I "flew by the seat of my pants" and planned as I went. I had no problems with hotels, maps, trains, etc. When i arrived in Venice, I did come across what appears to be a mistake in the book....I stayed at the Ca' Del Dosa B&B (which was great and affordable). The Directions say to go 'west of the Bridge of Sighs' but it was actually east. Since Venice can be very confusing for the first time, and the first thing to do is drop your bags off at the hotel, I thought it was important to mention.
So if you get off the vaporetto at San Zaccaria, the Bridge of Sighs is to your left (back to the water) and you'd go to the right over 3 bridges and Ca' del Dose is on the first street.
Sarah <email>
san francisco, ca USA Wed 12/08/2004
feature requests for Italy book
My wife and I went on our Honeymoon in Italy recently. Rick Steves book helped us out a lot. One great example was missing the ticket line at the coloseum in Rome by buying our tickets at the Paletine Hill Ticket Booth. One thing we would like for Rick to stress in his book is to fill your dates out on the EuroRail Pass. We got fined 50Euro on a train becuase we did not fill the date out on the pass.
The other thing I would like to see is more detailed maps in the book. Other than the things listed above the book was a life saver. Rick knows what he's talking about.
Greg Jones <email>
Orlando, Fl. USA Fri 12/03/2004
We do not need to place reviews of our Hotel......
At the personal attention of all the users and the sheriff of this message board.Regarding the letter posted by Mr. Roget on this message board
I would like simlpy to say that I never posted reviews of my Hotel , I tried to contact Mr. Roget but I did not received a reply , as you can see in the message board there are e-mail address of the last two clients that posted the reviews ......
I would like to thank all the Rick Steves readers ( hundreds) that every year choose Villa Margherita and sometime post good review.( sorry for my bad english)
Villa Margherita Levanto <email>
Levanto, Italy Thu 12/02/2004
Sorrento, Rome, and Civita
Just back from Italy (Nov 2004) where we stayed in two of Rick's recommended lodgings -- both full of Rick groupies and both fantastic deals.
In Sorrento, we can't say enough nice things about Casa Astarita B&B. Not a place to go for water views, but we were using Sorrento as a base for sightseeing in the Naples - Amalfi area, and for this it was perfect. We liked being right in the center of town so you could walk to everything. The place was spotless; room reasonably large with attractive brightly-colored tile. The staff was very friendly and helpful, although only one (Alfonso) spoke much English. Breakfasts were good, and a real plus was free highspeed Internet access in the room, as well as on the public PC. Also, there was free bottled water and fruit juice in the fridge, and cookies on the sideboard, as well as homemade limoncello. For all those amenities, I don't think you could beat the off-season price of 75 euro a night.
In Rome we also loved Hotel Aberdeen, again with a very friendly and helpful staff, and a free public Internet terminal. We were happy with the location, although not right in the heart of the tourist attractions like Piazza Navona. But you can walk to just about anyplace in Rome in less than half an hour, and if you wanted wheels, the hotel is very convenient to many bus lines and the Metro. Our room appeared to have been recently renovated, and was quite a bargain for the "special Rick Steves rate" of 88 euro.
(By the way, we agree with the person who said the Target pizzeria, which is not far from the Aberdeen, was a bad deal. We found both the service and the food among the worst we had in Rome. Don't go there.)
The other place we stayed is not in Rick's book, although I think it should be, because it's a great base for visiting his favorite back door hill town, Civita di Bagnoregio. It's a B&B called L'Ombricolo, between Civita and Orvieto (about 90 min north of Rome). It's a bit more expensive at 120 - 130 euro a night, but well worth it for the beautiful surroundings and amenities. The owner is British, and a fascinating person. Google the name (L'Ombricolo), and you'll find their web listings.
Mike and Roz
Boston, MA USA Wed 12/01/2004
Hotel Sonya, Rome
My wife and I are big fans of Rick Steves and always use his guidebooks when we can. We recently stayed at the Hotel Sonya in Rome(10/31-11/4) which is a recommended hotel. We thought that we had agreed on the price for the room. At checkout, we were requested to pay 15 Euro's more than the agreed price. I didn't bring a copy of the e mails we had exchanged so I paid under protest. We've communicated with 3 different employees of the hotel and still can't get this issue resolved. Bring all copies of e mail pertaining to reservations, especially when dealing with this hotel.Charles Steele
Charles Steele <email>
Los Altos, CA USA Tue 11/30/2004
Naples - Hotel Ginevra
I agree w/the previous writer who identified this place as a dump. Rick recommends only four hotels in Naples, and it's hard to believe that Rick would actually stay here. It doesn't appear that Rick has done much research on places to stay in Naples.
Chuck <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA Tue 11/23/2004
5 Terre - Monterosso 9/04
At the end of September we stayed in Monterosso for 3 nights and this site was so helpful in our planning I am finally getting around to posting our finds.
We found a hotel not listed in Rick's book, because all the places in his book were already full when we emailed for reservations a month ahead of time. It was a six room B&B at the end of town, a block from the beach - and would be a splurge for the area at about $225 euro. It is called 'Relais A Ca Du Gigante' (after the giant statue in Monterosso). It is owned and run by the same family that owns Miky, a tasty but expensive restaurant in Monterosso suggested in Rick's 2004 Italy book. The building the hotel is located in is brand new so the rooms are spotless and the furnishings are wonderful - it really reminded me of an upscale boutique hotel in the US. The breakfast is served on a small terrace and was better than most of what we found in Italy (but nothing hot). I would think this place would be worth adding to the next book. The only downside we found was that there wasn't a view of the water and the private terrace in the suite is over-hyped.http://www.locandailgigante.it/english/frameset.html
As far as eating we ate in Vernazza and Monterosso and did not have a bad meal. Our first lunch was at Al Carugio on a side street in Monterosso and was probably the best. Huge bowls of fish stew - Yum!
We had dinner at Ciak and Miky in Monterosso both really good for fish – definitely get the fish appetizer at Ciak – they brought us 8 different things and each one was better than the next.
Our only so-so dinner was at Bar del Capitano on the main square in Vernazza, but the atmosphere of the town made up for it.
We did the entire hike in one day - starting in Monterosso - the opposite direction than Rick lies out in the book. I really liked getting the hard part over with first – and it was the most beautiful part, too. We took the ferry back which was an awesome way to see the towns from a different perspective.
Late September seemed like a great time to be in the area – busy but not packed. The beach guys were starting to cart away all the chairs and umbrellas but we still managed an afternoon reading books on beach chairs. We had to wait anywhere we wanted to eat without a reservation but always got great service once we were seated. The trains were still a mystery when we left – never once even close to on time. All in all, it was a fabulous vacation from the touring we did in Rome and Florence. Thanks Rick!
Kristen <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Wed 11/17/2004
Carnavale in Viareggio
I was told about the Carnavale in Viareggio by an Italian woman. Travelers staying in the Cinque Terre would find it convenient to take a day trip of one hour each way from La Spezia. Or stay in Viareggio and day-trip to 5Terre. My calendar shows Ash Wednesday falling on Feb. 9 in 2005, so Carnavale would be just before that (not as spectacular as the one in Venice).
Swan
USA Wed 11/17/2004
March in Italy
In Italy end of March-weather great-in the 60-70 range. Stayed at Residenza Cellini in Rome-friendly ,great breakfast,lovely furnishings ans internet access for free-plus near the train station and in a good neighborhood. Ate twice at the Target around the corner from Cellini-wonderful pizza and good prices.
On to Sorrento-stayed at Il Nido-can't say enough about this family run hotel-they are so helpful,what a view and the best and cheapest meals we had in our 2 week trip ! Great buffet breakfast. Also they had free internet.
In Florence stayed at Hotel Casci-what a location-fantastic buffet breakfast,free internet very clean and friendly .Went to Il Latini to eat-like the fellow said earlier-no posted price-cost 40 Euros but the food was fantastic and the atmosphere warm.Also ate at the self-service Risturante Leonardo,good food and cheap prices but no atmosphere.Tratoria Ce Ce was also mouth watering but make sure you have reservations-the family is so welcoming-lots of food for not much price.
On to Venice-stayed at Hotel Marin near the train station-great location-nice owner,great buffet breakfast.A bit far from the center of action but worth it.
Did the trains to travel-booked with local travel agents and that worked well.
Kathy <email>
USA Tue 11/16/2004
Italy
Thoughts from conservative(since this is now a political&travel website), budget conscious, RS veterans
VENICE: CORTE CAMPANA B&B was great. The location was perfect and Riccardo was a hoot - in spite of, or maybe because of his skinflint ways -- notice all the missing light bulbs and don't forget to request towels!
FLORENCE: Bellevue House was the best deal of the trip. Antonio was the perfect gentleman and host.
VERNAZZA: Stayed at Tonino Basso's rooms at the top of the hill mainly for the internet access. The room was fine but it is NOT a high speed connection (more like 28K). IL PIRATA patissceria was the best! The brothers were entertaining and gracious hosts, the food was wonderful, and the prices were right on. It is definintely worth the walk up.
ROME: Pensione Italia was a winner. Great rooms and service. TARGET restaurant was TERRIBLE! The food and prices were decent but the service was DREADFUL enough to ruin everything. The waiters were rude, condescending, and we never did get any bread. I can't believe that Rick recommends this place.
Took several MILLENIA TOURS (www.threemillenia.com) and found them to be exceptional. Given by American guides with a passion for all things Roman, they were way above your typical worn out rehearsed monologue. Rick should check them out.
Deryl <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA Mon 11/15/2004
Milan Restauants
In Milan, Ristorante Pizzeria Calafuia Unione is closed. We found another very good one a few blocks away on Via Dogana (dogana means customs house). Ristorante Pizzeria Dogana was friendly, efficient and had many locals at Saturday lunch when we were there. Located at Via Dogana, 3 at Piazza del Duomo. Telephone 028 056 766.
Liz Phelps <email>
Pittsburg, CA USA Sun 11/14/2004
Hotel Ginevra in Naples--A Dump
I can't believe this dump made it into the 2005 edition of Italy. (I was there in September 2004.) The owners dun you for cash payment the moment you come in the hotel and don't let up until pay them in advance. They tried to jack the price of my room up and it was only when I produced my e-mail confirmation that they backed off. The bed was not particularly clean and the sheets were not changed after my first night there. They also refused to honor the discount Rick mentions in his book despite my producing the current guide. Oh, did I mention that the guy behind the desk most of the time I was there is surly? He's a short, balding, light-haired guy. Look elsewhere, please.
Steve <email>
Vista, CA USA Fri 11/12/2004
Genoa info
Would not think of traveling to Europe without Rick Steves (Books)Just did 3 weeks in Italy 2004 & returning 2005.Genoa is the European Cultural City for 2005; Yet no info on Genoa! Help! 3 night yet to explore...
Nicki <email>
Hampton Roads Area, VA USA Sun 11/07/2004
Warning - 24hr waterboat tickets
I just want to add that in Venice it is absolutely essential to punch the 24-hr waterboat tickets before boarding for the first time. We had bought the tickets at a tobbacco shop and totally forgot to validate it. We were fined 30 EUROS EACH! We could have used the money on a gondola ride!
Niza <email>
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Wed 11/03/2004
Oct. in Italy
After finding this board before our 3 week trip to Italy, and benefiting from many of the tips, I just wanted to respond with some comments of my own. Rick and his book were truly an ever present part of the trip. What a difference it made to have such good and accurate info. Like others have said, the only inaccuracies were just normal price increases and one discontinued bus tour in Rome.
In spite of some previous postings, we stayed at Hotel Speronari in Milan, and were quite satisfied. It was clean, quiet, had good beds, and an awesome location. (We even got the complimentary cappaccino at check-in!). Next stop was Varenna and Albergo Oliveda. No problems with "serious" Laura, although we did chuckle about being confined to our room at night, as no one is to walk downstairs in the middle of the night. The view from our room and balcony was fabulous...what a wonderful place!! Good food, (although after 3 days we did have the verbal menu memorized) and such a great town.
On to Cinque Terre...oh one other thing, the travel agency mentioned by Rick in Varenna was very helpful with the one train reservation we needed....Ok, in Vernazza stayed in apt. of Rosa Vitalli. Lovely lady, lovely apt. Little noisy, but with your own 4th floor terrace, it was very enjoyable. We did the whole hike, starting at Riomaggiore. We didn't think it was "scary" at all. Just weren't expecting it to be so many stairs. Ended the hike with a swim in the Mediterranean at Monterosa...in Oct. no less! Awesome day!!! In Vernazza, you must have breakfast at Il Pirate. Not only the best pastries in Italy, but the most fun owners too.
Quick stops at Pisa and Lucca (biking around the ramparts is great fun), and on to Florence. Even in Oct. it was hot and crowded, but what a city. Hotel Centrale, was perfectly adequate. Very small bathroom, but clean, quiet, and comfortable beds. Excellent buffet breakfast.
In Siena, Albergo Bernini was all that Rick said, but our bed was so narrow and creaky that it was not the best night's sleep. However, being able to picnic on their beautiful terrace overlooking the city and being invited to listen to lovely accordian music in the family living room, more than made up for it.
Cortona was a picturesque quick stop, with a nice hike up to the church above the town. In Assisi, Hotel Ideale was great, but pay cash, as we put it on a credit card and it was immediately converted to dollars at a very poor exchange rate. Very convenient hotel if you are driving. Quick stops at Montefalco and Todi, both of which were fine, but not as interesting as we had hoped.
Tiny Civita is a worthwhile stop, and if you want to stay in Bagnoregio, Hotel Romantica Pucci is unbelievable. Pucci herself makes it a stop worth making. Speaking 5 languages she has painstakingly decorated and redone from scratch all of her rooms. With canopy beds and cakes and water in your room upon your arrival, a buffet breakfast that made me blush when I realized it was all for us, and only 65.euros, it was a fun night! We would stay at Il Nido in Sorrento again even though it is outside of the town itself. The view and the peace and quiet were worth it. We did have a car, and without one I think I would agree that it is a bit far out. Driving the Amalfi Coast Road was not nearly as hair-raising for my husband as trying to get through Fri. night Sorrento traffic...it took a full hour to just get through town.
During the whole trip there were absolutly no problems with pickpockets whatsoever. Everywhere actually felt very safe. Only the subways in Rome and Milan and the streets of Florence would have provided any opportunities for thefts. Anyway, thanks Rick, for a great trip. We can't wait to go back!!
BC <email>
Seattle, WA USA Wed 11/03/2004
Hotel owners posting their own reviews...
I noticed a few posted "rave reviews" for Villa Margherita, etc. that were supposedly from Americans,(names and cities listed, but not surprisingly... no e-mail address) but if you read them closely it is obvious that they were written by someone whose English is not that good, probably the hotel owners themselves? FYI....
David Roget <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Wed 11/03/2004
Lucca B&B
In Lucca I returned for a second visit to LeViolette B&B. www.Leviolette.it. It is close to the train station, clean and nicely decorated with two ANNAS as owners. Two Bathrooms are shared by the people in 6 rooms. Breakfast is delivered to your room. I paid 40EU/night.
Swan
USA Tue 11/02/2004
Hotel Mignon in Sorrento.
I recently stayed at Hotel MIGNON MUEBLE in Sorrento. I paid 70Eu for Sb. The hotel is convenient but not on the main street, clean and breakfast was included. I even had my own small patio.
Swan
USA Tue 11/02/2004
Anniversary Trip
We had a blast on our 25th Anniversary trip to Italy. Rick's books and seminars were a big part of our planning and sightseeing while we were there. There were a few fees that were a bit higher than listed, but we expected those as typical rate hikes. None were more than an Euro or two. Several tours that were supposed to have audio guides did not. I'm not sure if it's because we were there outside of "high season" (October) or if they were simply discontinued. This happened in Ostia Antica and Paestum, south of Amalfi.
AMALFI COAST - we stayed in Priano at Hotel Holiday for 110 Euro/night. We loved that location and the staff was extremely friendly. The location was superbly placed between Positano and other Amalfi Coast towns. You catch the bus right outside the hotel and go wherever you want. They also have parking if you arrived by car. If you go to the Amalfi Coast, Pasteum should be a MUST on everyone's itinerary. Those greek ruins were fascinating. I could have spent two days just combing through those ruins.
TUSCANY - we stayed in the small town Lucignano, about 30 minutes from Siena. It was our home base for a week while we toured Tuscan and Umbrian towns: Volterra, San Gimignano, Assisi, Perugia, Pisa, Orvieto, and Civita de Bagnoregio (don't miss Civita!). We stayed at Il Cassero, http://www.ilcassero-tuscany.com/. Luigi, the owner, was charming and wonderful. The rooms were romantic and the setting in the town was far beyond our expectations. The price was extremely reasonable. Tell Luigi that Kathleen sent you.
ROME - The Downtown Accomodation is wonderfully located near the central attractions (www.downtownaccomodation.com). It is was a bit noisy with the street below the rooms. My favorite thing there was visiting the Borghese Gallery with the Bernini sculptures. We took a day and hopped on the subway and then the train and hit the ruins of the Roman seaport of Ostia Antica. That was incredible and so huge. We also really enjoyed Palatine Hill too in the early morning before it was busy. Rick's book was great in helping us tour it and know what we were looking at. Thank you Rick for helping us make this a trip to remember for the rest of our lives.
Kat O <email>
Des Moines, WA USA Mon 11/01/2004
Meuble Agavi
Meuble Agavi in Monterosso will close this winter from early Dec. to reopen in Feb--according to the owner.
Swan
USA Sun 10/31/2004
Eating
Antonio's Hostaria dei Bastoni near the Vatican Museum should be removed from your next publication as the quality of the food is not reliable. Instead, try flli Micci Trattoria near the Market, Via A. Doria, 55 a/b (tel. 06-39733208), closed Monday. Located 3 blocks from Hotel Alimandi, which is great!
Terry Howard <email>
Seattle, WA USA Sun 10/31/2004
Villa Margherita in Levanto
If you are looking for the perfect place to get a taste of Italy, we recommend Villa Margherita in Levanto. The villa is perched on the mountainside, but minutes from the beach and train station. The accomodations are perfect with a wonderful garden to sit and drink wine at the end of the day. Fredico and his family are so helpful and breakfast and their caffe lattes are to die for. Even though we were one train stop away from Cinque Terre,it was hard to leave this calm village or the beautiful beach. We plan to return again next summer. It is our new favorite place on earth.
A Bishop <email>
Gainesville, FL USA Sat 10/30/2004
Italy & Cinque Terre
We just came back from two weeks in Italy and really loved Cinque Terre , Levanto and Portofino.We stayed at the Villa Margherita by the sea B&B in Levanto..simply amazing, great location, friendly staff, clean rooms.They have a great website at www.villamargherita.net
Paul Biasotti <email>
New York, NY USA Fri 10/29/2004
italy Update based on 9/04 trip
Italy update (9/04) on Rick’s hotels
Albergo Olivedo, Varenna, - a real keeperTheir “miserable breakfast” has become a really good breakfast, served in their plaza in front of hotel looking at Lake Como. We lived on it for most of the day as we were so busy. Dinner is excellent, one of the best we ate in Italy. Location unchanged, - and gracious. “Serious Laura” is just a very busy, one woman show, but one with a good heart. We had a room overlooking the lake with a balcony – gorgeous view!!
Hotel Gritti, Milan – keeper as described by Rick. After a long ,exhausting flight, it was a quiet sanctuary in noisy downtown Milan. Rick is on our Christmas card list for that recommendation.
Hotel Alexandra, Florence – managed by terse and tiresome Andrea.We left and stayed at an apartment owned by Hotel Patricia on recommendation of fellow traveler. Very nice rooms run by great family, at only E70. Some street noise with windows open. But with windows closed no problem and have air cond. Very nice people to deal with, very helpful, the owners’ uncle walked us to the apt so we would not get lost. The hotel is clean and neat but their apartments are extremely clean and u pto date and good area and his wife is very nice. Recommended. !!!!!!!!!! Should be in your book!!!!
And last, and least. Capri. Leaves a bad taste. Read Rick and believe .We were only in the Blue Grotto for 60-90 seconds but it was beautiful.
Hotel del Corso, Sorrento – nice rooms in updated hotel. Ours faced side street. Decent breakfast. Manager wants upfront payment for entire stay with no refunds, when checking in. Push back hard, and learn that you are in Southern Italy and closer to the bazaar mentality across the Med. A previous griffetti on the cleanliness of the bathroom was seconded by my wife, who cleaned it with those great Clorox sheets that come in a travel pak. Also the sheets hadn’t been changed, they helped my wife change the sheets when pointed out that night .....They rehung our dirty towels up after we had used them which were really dirty after a grimy train and plane day, when we discovered this fact and asked for clean towels and another soap, we were told only change linens every other day, if we had been told this when checking in would have only used one towel, we never received clean linens or soap after asking 2 people for them.Took our showers using the old Rick Steves micro towel and our shampoo. We checked out the next day and were told the night before when we notified them we were not happy that we owed for the full 4 days .
Hotel Sonja, Rome – A keeper. Nice clean rooms, as described. Nice people run it. Free Internet, and close to train station. .Helpful front desk/bell man /breakfast man who makes great cappuccino for breakfast.
Hotel Conte Verde., Santa Margarita had been there many years before- unchanged and nice.
Footnotes. Florence felt very safe. Police have CCTV, and are proactive in working with the locals. Gypsy hustlers are gone except for very passive beggars.Naples is getting better, according to one source. The action on the CircumVesvius RR resembled a school bus more than the Pickpocket’s Special.And last, and least. Capri. Leaves a bad taste. Read Rick and believe. The only place where you find that a city will allow a partial rebate after you are deliberately overcharged for the funicular ride up to the town of Capri. Of course, you have to go thru the same long ticket line again to get the rebate.
jerry <email>
san francuisco, CA USA Wed 10/27/2004
Vernazza Hermitage (L'Ermo sur Mare)
I fully agree with Bill's comments below on the Hermitage (L'Ermo sur Mare) in Vernazza. Rick Steve's Italy Book was great for us, but is wrong about L'Ermo sur Mare when it lists it as having private toilet and bath. Expect 5 rooms sharing 2 bathrooms, the noisiest, squeakiest bathroom door in all of Italy, and hot water that lasts 5 minutes. Suggest looking elsewhere to enjoy very interesting Vernazza.
Rick <email>
Cincinnati, OH USA Wed 10/27/2004
Sorrento, Rome
Rome-Fellinis, great location, AC comfortable beds, JeanPaul, proprieter seemed nice but only saw him briefly. The negative-Anna-the breakfast Nazi, rude, hostile, hard pillows, lousy breakfast
Sorrento-dont stay at Il Nido-though I agree with the numerous positive comments, the location is TERRIBLE, cant walk to anything and not worth the trouble, 25 Euro cab ride from station, miles from anything even with the free shuttle
CZM <email>
Seattle, WA USA Tue 10/26/2004
Vernazza
Hi!I'm writing this feedback about Vernazza,'cause it is probably the most amazing town in the world.The most enchanting part of the town is the main plaza,Piaza Marconi,with an astonishing view on the ocean and on Monterosso,the next town.The town is so little and pictoresque that car circulation is not allowed,and this give you a strong sense of peace and quiet. Locals seemed to be very helpful and kind with us,the only thing I hated was that people who have rooms to rent and have not reservations , so they wait for every train passing at the station and when you get off from the train they stop you asking if you need a room , even if you already got a reservation - the worst thing is that they were so persistent!Except from this little trouble we had at our arrival , we enjoyed the town very much!
We reserved two rooms at Francamaria's place,her son Giovanni spoke a fast English and was very kind in helping us carrying the huge quantity of bags we had.The rooms we reserved ( we were six )were clean and spacious, located in front of the churchtower in the main square. We enjoyed the lovely view on the ocean ( ask for rooms # 1 and # 7).We had also an extra day in Vernazza 'cause Francamaria let us store the bags in her storeroom,so we visited the other towns and we left the area in the evening towards Pisa.
We 'll definitely come back at Francamaria's the next time.An advice : Francamaria told us to dine at Il castello restaurant( she is friend with the owner Monica )- you have to climb some steps , but when you arrive you find a gorgeous place with killer view over the bay and probably the best seafood in all the area!Thank you Rick,your book is perfect! : )
Rachel
USA Tue 10/26/2004
venice sleeping and eating
I agree about the hotel Aloggi Alla Scala, not too nice at all. We didn't reserved it but when we went in to see the room, were disappointed so didn't book there. I thought it was dreary and small and not great for the money. The setup there was not very welcoming.We (2 couples in our 50's) ended up renting an apartment directly across from the hotel with venice Rentals whose info. we took along with us from your message board write ups. We called them in Venice, which took a while to find (041-276-9798) as they listed only a Massachusetts number.
After getting in touch with Denise of Venice Rentals, she met us and told us that the apartment was still available due to a last minute cancellation and that she would show it to us at 2:p.m. that day.We loved the aparment, it was huge and very bright with such nice views from every single window. It practically overlooked the Aloggi Hotel but even better, it looked over the Bovolo staircase, quite breathtaking! Included with this apartment was our own private terrace which was all set up for dining with table and chairs, 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, although only one had shower, and a good sized kitchen and large living room with television and telephone. We were thrilled to have found this apartment rental and on such short notice. We stayed just 3 nights and loved it there. We did pay more than the Aloggi Hotel but it was worth it. We were given a last minute discount of 200 Euros per night.
As for eating out in Venice........ We didn't eat too well in overall. Everything was so expensive for what it was and just not pleasing to the eye. I don't think Venetians care estically about their dishware, or presentation of their food. Most places were approx. 50 E. per head for an average meal ( I am comparing to Atlanta where we eat out constantly)We found a couple of places that I thought were decent but not worth mentioning really. We did enjoy one meal having had seafood at Da Remegio, the only place I would recommend.Most everything was very good but we paid 65 Euros per person, with 2 glasses of wine, which I feel is steep. I guess when going to Venice, you must be prepared for this!
josephine blaire <email>
atlanta, ga USA Tue 10/26/2004
Vernazza Hotel - Hermitage by the Sea - Beware!!
Wife and I, along with another couple, just returned from our 10 day Italy vacation, visiting Venice, Florence, Cinque Terre, and Rome. We used Rick Steve's guide extensively for all activities, and it was great except for our lodging experience in Cinque Terre.Here's our story.....When we booked our reservations for L'Eremo Sul Mare (Hermitage)in Vernazza, we thought we were booking a semi-private Villa. "Angela" made us aware that the residence was about 500 meters from the train station, straight up the hill and about 400 steps. We're all in reasonable health, and so no problem there. She also indicated the residence had three bedrooms, so that we might be sharing the "Villa" with one other couple. We were led to believe that we would share 1 bathroom between the 4 of us, and the third bedroom, had it's own private bathroom. We didn't really care for sharing (even with each other), but agreed we could handle it since it would only be two nights, plus Rick recomedended it and the web-site made the place sound really appealing.However, when we arrived, we noticed the place had a fair amount of clutter, almost like the place hadn't been cleaned in a few days. We also discovered that there was 1 bathroom to be shared amongst the 3 bedrooms... a surprise, but we concluded perhaps we had misunderstood when making our original reservations. The third (German) couple had already arrived, they were very nice, and besides, at that point there wasn't much we could do about it anyway.We then hiked back down to the town, did some site-seeing, had drinks and dinner, and then returned to our accomodations about 9:30PM.When we arrived, we were shocked to find 2 additional couples in the house! Turns out they had been there several days and were staying in 2 upstairs bedrooms that we didn't know existed. While they had a separate bathroom upstairs, at this point, we realized we would not have anywhere near the privacy we were expecting. Basically, we were staying in a high priced ($85 euros/night/room) hostel... not at all what we wanted or were led to believe.Nevertheless, we spent as little time as possible at the house during our two day stay in Vernazza. When we told the person in charge (Fabio), that we felt we had been misled, he did give us a 10% discount, but we certainly would not have booked it originally had we known what it really was. We suggested to Fabio he may want to update his website to accurately represent what he was offering... a small house with 5 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms accomodating 10 or more people.Bill
Bill <email>
Ky USA Mon 10/25/2004
Montepulciano Recommendations
We stayed at a wonderful B&B in Montepulciano, which should be added to Steve's guide. It was Albergo La Terrazza. It was roomy, they offered a good breakfast and the owners were very friendly. We traveled with our 2.5 year old son and they were very accommodating. The owner is Roberto Giardinelli at 0578-757440. We ate at Trattoria Di Voltaia just next door and had a very good meal.
Kathy <email>
Portland, OR USA Sun 10/24/2004
Lodging in Italy
We just returned from a 5 1/2 week trip to Europe, much of which was spent in Italy. I won't go into full detail here in one note, but will highlight the lodging at a few places and then post more later.In Venice we stayed at Al Campaniel (www.alcampaniel.com) for the second time and loved it again. It is easy to reach, a good price, and Marco is very helpful and speaks English flawlessly.We loved Cinque Terre. We stayed in Monterroso which had the better beach. The scenery was beautiful, but we got our rooms from a broker type person who had a sign at the train station (www.5terreaccomodation.com) and it was not a very nice room. It was roomy enough, and somewhat clean, but the bed was awful. He had said it had a sea view, but it didn't unless you stood just so, and peeked out through some trees.In Florence we stayed at Daniella Pezzati's B&B (www.soggiornopezzati.it). It is in a great location, close to the train and the duomo, easy walking everywhere. She's very helpful and the price was fantastic. The bathroom is quite small, with the shower integrated in around the toilet area, but it out worked fine. The beds were firm and the rooms decorated very nicely.In Rome we stayed at the very centrally located Downtown Accommodation (www.downtownaccomodation.com). This one can be noisy due to the busy street it is on, so if you're a light sleeper, bring earplugs. They are very helpful, and the place is very secure. I would go there again in a minute.Other places we visited which I'll post about at a later time: Verona, Sorrento, Priano (by Positano), and Tuscany.
Kat O. <email>
Des Moines, WA USA Sun 10/24/2004
Hotel Du Lac, Bellagio, Italy
Bellagio - The Hotel Du Lac was absolutely lovely, with a perfect location. Good recommendation! Please tell readers that the hotel offers a half pension for only E 30 per room for 2. This gives you a delicious 4 course dinner on the outdoor terrace with Bruno! (a Hotel fixture himself).This was a real bargain compared with other restaurants in the area, and helps offset the cost of the hotel room.We definitely recommend this hotel. Everyone there was very nice and the room was perfect.
paula stolicny <email>
orlando, fl USA Sun 10/24/2004
Puccini in Lucca
Lucca now has an ongoing Puccini festival. Tues, Thurs, and Fri eves at 7 pm. 15Eu. It lasts 90 min. and every concert is different. I heard excerpts from Madame Butterfly Fri. and enjoyed it. I know almost nothing about opera, so that's saying something.
Swan
USA Sun 10/24/2004
Don't stay at ALLOGGI ALLA SCALA in Venice
I planned a trip for me and my sisters to six cities in Italy. All of the hotels we booked through Rick Steves guides were wonderful, except our accomodations in Venice at Alloggi alla Scala. The older lady who runs the place may seem sweet and kind on the outside, but the reality is that she is a scammer. I booked three nights at Alloggi for 3 people in her BIG room with an extra bed and a private bathroom. She quoted me more than Rick's book and the web updates listed - 120 per night. When we arrived she informed me that the big room would not be available until the next evening because she supposedly had an issue with another guest. The room she put us three in was so small that we had to walk across each others beds and put our luggage under the bed close to the door. It was ridiculous! And our "private" bathroom was down the hall with a little handwritten sign that said it was for our room only. The water pressure in the shower was also non existant. I could've taken a better shower with a cold glass of water. Then she had the nerve to ask us if we wanted to keep the small room for the rest of the stay. Instead we found another hotel around the corner called Hotel Centauro. We had a room 3 times the size with a huge chandelier, a real private bathroom with a good bath/shower and real warm water, a fabulous view of a canal complete with gondoliars, and an absolutely fabulous buffet breakfast for the same price!When I left Alloggi the "old woman under the stairs" as we called her, insisted I pay the same price I would have paid for the bigger room with the private bath and even threatened to charge the rest of the nights to my credit card. I told her that as she was the one to break our agreement, and never provided any cancellation policy on the faxes (I had to spend $25 faxing her internationally as her fax machine was not working properly), that I would dispute anything she tried to charge and asked for a reciept from her and the new hotel for backup. The sad thing is that I believe I saw someone else's similar comments on this website right before I left on our trip. Too bad I didn't read it until it was too late. The rest of our stay in Venice was fabulous. Other hotels I recommend are: Hotel Villa Cipressi in Lago di Como, and Villa Nuova Riviera in Santa Margherita Ligure. Nardizzi Americana in Rome was a fine deal for budgeters.
Angie <email>
Orlando, FL USA Sat 10/23/2004
Florence
My two female travel companions and I stayed at Hotel Ungherese September 30 and October 1, 2004. We were on a two week tour of Italy using a rental car. We chose this hotel solely because Rick's "Italy 2004" book said it is "good for drivers" and "has easy, free street parking". It certainly isn't easy getting to the hotel from the Autostrada.
We stopped at an Autogrill before arriving in Florence and bought the best street map they stocked. Even with the map, we drove around for over an hour trying to locate the hotel. Finally, when we did pull up in front of the hotel for our "free and easy parking", they told us we couldn't park the car on the street due to Friday morning street cleaning. We had to park several blocks away and walk back to the hotel. As for the "great singles" which I had, the bathroom contained everything, shower, sink, toilet, and bidet all in the same tiny room. The shower head came out of the wall and, before showering, all the towels, toilet paper, and personal items had to be put outside the room. The floor of the bathroom was the same level as the bedroom so much of the water on the bathroom floor flowed out into the bedroom. Both nights we stayed here, my companion's double room shower flooded the tile floor and soaked the bedroom floor. I would never stay here again nor would I recommend it to anyone staying in Florence.
Dave Hill <email>
San Jose, CA USA Fri 10/22/2004
Northern Italy
Venice, Florence, RomeRick's book was amazingly accurate on our tour of the great cities of northern Italy, from the bewildering floor plan of the Accademia Hotel in Florence to the scam artists plaguing the railway station in Rome. Thanks especially to the book for the little tip about the second exit from the Sistine Chapel, which saves a long weary walk around the outside of the Vatican Museum.
Despite crowds, we enjoyed our trip very much. The only negative that we did not anticipate was the absolute plague of street vendors near any tourist attraction in these three cities. After a while it becomes downright annoying to step over the same cheesy fake handbags and dodge the same trinket vendors day after day.
On the up side, we stayed at La Calcina ( Rick recommendation) in Venice, which is on the Guidecca canal--it has very friendly staff, a nice outdoor restaurant, and sunset views on the water. It's a quiet haven in a very busy tourist city. And of course, we got to see the fabulous art and architecture, take evening walks sustained by treats from the ubiquitious gelateria, and gaze at the moon above the Pantheon while dining alfresco near our hotel in Rome. All in all, a great adventure.
Doug and Margaret <email>
Upper Arlington, OH USA Thu 10/21/2004
Venice
The best restaurant we ate at in Venice we discovered on our last night -- it was the restaurant attached to our hotel ( a good, inexpensive, well-located hotel --Al Gazzettino). The restaurant is also called Al Gazzettino, and is between Piazza San Marco and Rialto -- right in the Merceria area , on the canal that cuts across that area (yeah, you'll probably have to wander around to find it). The waiter took us in hand and presented us with a fabulous meal -- steamed razor clams, pumpkin-shrimp risotto, etc. Much more interesting food than a lot of restaurants offer.
Mary Hamilton <email>
Lexington, MA USA Thu 10/21/2004
florence
Two things: first, the restaurant Il Latini, which is in almost every guidebook, including Rick's. It was mobbed every night with Americans, many clutching Rick's guidebook. We made a reservation, were ushered into a room which was absolutely packed (with Americans) , and were served an excellent dinner, with a great deal of food, but no menu was offered, and it ended up being 40 euros a person. It was worth the money, but if one had come in expecting to have a cheap meal, it could have been difficult! I felt that somehow I had inadvertently become part of a large bus tour -- but that wasn't the case. We were seated at a table with another couple who were also somewhat baffled by the experience. As I said, the food was excellent, the atmosphere jolly, but it was a very different experience than what we expected from the guidbook.
Secondly, an excellent, inexpensive hotel in Florence is the Pensione Ferretti. Good location 10 minute walk from train station, quiet side street, excellent breakfast, free newspapers in all languages, extremely helpful staff.
mary Hamilton <email>
Lexington, MA USA Thu 10/21/2004
Firenze, Siena, Cinque Terre & Milan...
Just returned from a two week trip to Italy. We relied on both Rick's Italy guide as well as the Florence & Tuscany guide. We spent four nights in Florence, two in Siena, four in the Cinque Terre, and finally three nights in Milan.
Florence:We stayed at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti; nice rooms, great location. Dinner at Il Ritrovo - twice (it was so good we had to eat there twice).Note: Visited the Medici chapels. The entrance is separate from the San Lorenzo church; you have to walk around to the other side of the building. There is a separate admission charge to get into San Lorenzo church.
Siena:What a beautiful Medieval City. Stayed at the Palazzo Ravizza; very nice hotel away from the city center. Could have used a third day in Siena; it's a great hub for visiting the Tuscan hill towns.
Impressions of the Cinque Terre:We spent two nights in Riomaggiore and two nights in Vernazza. We loved Riomaggiore. There must be a half-dozen restaurants to choose from, and the waterfront is very quaint. Bar Centrale was a great place for a coffee or a late night aperitif. It was certainly a more substantial village than we were expecting. Same thing for Manarola. I was expecting a tiny village, but there were plenty of places to eat and stay. We had lunch at 'Il Porticciolo' in Manarola, and the food was both excellent and inexpensive. Of all the villages, Corniglia is by far the quietest and least touristy. If you want peace and quiet away from all the tourists, then that's the village for you. After Riomaggiore we moved on to Vernazza. Rick has done a great job promoting Vernazza. However, I guess the result is that it's loaded with Americans. (Although the German tourists were probably a close second.) We rented a room (#3) from Francamaria for two nights in Vernazza. Great room just steps from the square. The staff were very helpful especially in alerting us to the fact that there was a train strike the next day. Dinner at 'Il Capitano' the first night was excellent.
Monterrosso was by far the biggest disappointment of the five villages. We spent a few hours there, and that was enough. The hike between Monterosso & Vernazza is the most demanding but also the most rewarding. They views were spectacular.
One note on Vernazza. We decided to grab a drink and watch the sunset at "La Torre" ("Franco's bar"). Unfortunately there was a misunderstanding as Franco was not happy when we decided not to stay for dinner. Apparently it's a restaurant only, and just having a drink is not an option. From Rick's guidebook we were under the impression that this was a great place for an early evening drink. There were several couples who were also planning on having a drink but not dinner. It was only 6:30 and too early for dinner for us. Most restaurants don't open until at least 7:00, so we thought simply having a drink wouldn't be a problem. While Franco was upset, he was gracious enough to allow us and the other couples to stay to finish our drinks. Rick, please give our apologies to Franco the next time you see him!
Speaking of train strikes, we had the unfortunate experience of having to travel on the day of a rail strike. We were given a heads up and advised to take the early train around 8:30 a.m. to Genoa. From Genoa we were heading to Milan. Unfortunately, after 9:00 a.m. the train stopped in Sestri Levante, and everyone had to get off (the strike was from 9-5). There would be no more train service until after 5:00 p.m. We were fortunate enough to get a ride into Genoa with a few other stranded travelers, and we spent the day there until trains started running again. Not much to see in Genoa. Rick's Italy guidebook skips it altogether. The Aquarium was very nice. It took all day, but we finally arrived in Milan.
Milan:Spent three nights at Hotel Speronari. It's a budget hotel, but you can't beat the central location. There were many other Americans staying at the hotel. We were able to share a ride to the airport with another couple. Glad we had a few days, because we were able to get to see the Last Supper on our last day. We ate very well in Milan. Thanks for the great restaurant recommendations Rick.
General observations:Americans seemed to be everywhere. They were the ones carrying lots of luggage and insisting on speaking only English. No really bad "ugly American" incidents to report, just the usual like refusing to even make an attempt to at least exchange greetings in Italian and complaining about the coffee.The Germans were easily recognizable too; they were the ones carrying the hiking sticks/ski poles everywhere they went.The trains between the Cinque Terre villages did not seem to run as frequently as we had hoped. Waited over an hour one day to take a five minute train ride.
Michael McAuley <email>
Boston, MA USA Wed 10/20/2004
Southern Italy & Manners!
My husband, who is Italian, and I live in Venice. After our wedding this summer we didn't have time for a honey moon with all of my famly visting from the USA. But this past weekend we decided to explore Naples and Amalfi as a belated de-stress weekend.
First of all I would recommend visiting Naples especially around Christmas when you can see all the incredible nativity scenes that are built in the city. They go all out, even making figures that look like famous people. The food is incredible and the people, although rough looking on the first impression, are the warmest I have met in Italy, even more than Rome. Yes, you need to be more attentive in Naples but its a wonderful experience. Oh, and park your car in a garage or you'll come back in the morning with maybe a frame of what WAS you car.
My point... My mother left me the new 2004 Rick book after her travels in Italy after our wedding this summer. (I got my family hooked after finding Rick on PBS years ago...which actually led to me meeting my husband on the Venice to Rome train! Thanks Rick!) We found our hotel with that. We stayed at Hotel Ginevra near the train station.
First of all, DON'T wander too much at night. Our friends from Naples tell us that it is a very shady part of the city. Secondly, the hotel was disgusting. I've seen my fair share of Italian hotels and while sometimes they aren't as cozy as hotels in the US, this was beyond acceptable. The room floor was full of hair and dirt like it hadn't been cleaned in awhile, the bathroom shower was moldy and when you used it, the drain wouldn't work and you were in a mini lake with stuff coming up from the pipes. The pillows were dirty, stained gray, as well as the top cover-let.(AND I wish I wouldn't have...but I looked at the mattress..*sob, sob*) I don't think they wash the sheets. The bed was comfortable but I couldn't sleep well after finding pubic hairs woven in the blanket. I'm not talking about 1 hair either... WHO slept in my bed?! To top it off, the guy at the front desk tried to make us pay more than what was said on the phone. On the phone he told us 70 Euro, which is actually more than with Rick's discount, then he tried to tell us 85 when we got there. I was happy to have my husband argue with him in "colorful" Italian, especially after we saw the room. We told them it wasn't what we were expecting but they told us that they had our credit card number and we were indeed paying... I wouldn't recommend this hotel to anyone. Maybe we just had a very bad experience but...
Going south, Pompei & Sorrento are amazing but Positano is so relaxing! I love this town. People are friendly and for those that don't at least try to speak Italian, this town really caters to them. There are cute cats and dogs everywhere and the air is nice and fresh unlike Naples of course. There are shops and good restaurants and even a little grocery if you're lucky to have a kitchen with your room. Its a great little town with a beautiful view of the open sea.
Its FULL of Americans. Some of which made me wish I wasn't. I can't stress enough, especially since I've lived here for almost two years, you have to try to BLEND. Please don't wander drunk with your friends through the streets at 2am. People LIVE here. This holds true for the whole country. Its not an amusement park. And I'm not talking about 18 year olds, I'm talking 40's 50's with maybe too much money to spend... Try to say a few words, don't blabber on to some little 90 year-old man on the street asking "where-the-hell-is-the-bus" in your rude-est, fastest English. At least learn a few phrases, for example, "Do you speak English?" would be a great starter. Restaurants here cater to Americans especially. Altering the menu too, pouring on the Parmesean cheese over everything and offering every condiment imaginable. "Where are we?" I asked my husband. "Boh."
Tip: Italians use olive oil, lemon and a little salt on most everything. Try it and you'll taste the food...not just ketchup.
I know that I'm probably writing to a crowd that knows their manners and if you read Ricks books, I'm sure he stresses enough that you should try to experience Italy, and Europe in general, like a local. Its good advice. You'll have McDonalds and Coke when you get home. But just in case, I thought I'd vent anyway from a resident's point of view.
Visit Amalfi and the south, its SO great. When will Rick do Sicily?! Its even better!!!!Happy travels!Ciao!Brandy & Fabio
Brandy Cardarelli <email>
Venezia, Italia Wed 10/20/2004
Italy - Cinque Terre
This was my second time in Cinque Terre, a few notes. The Basso family has a little scam going to take advantage of last minute, and late arriving traveller. Only got us for 10Euros more, next time I'll book ahead. Also, Bar Centrale in Riomaggiore (spelling) DOES NOT serve food as the bartender rudely informed us. And the hike between Monterosso and Vernazza is not for the weak! The place is beautiful but has turned in to "little America" since my last visit.
AG123
MI USA Mon 10/18/2004
> Bed and breakfast in Rome
We stayed four nights at B&B Smart in Rome this September , it is a short walk from the Termini train station , very central to sites , shops and restaurants . The price was very good which includes breakfast .The rooms were spacious, clean and comfortable and owners are very friendly . There is big supermarket just on the corner . We had a wonderful stay and would recommend this nice B&B . www.bandbromeitaly.com
Cristina Hoben
New York, USA Tue 10/12/2004
Lovely Francamaria Rooms
Hello. We stayed at Francamaria Rooms, Vernazza , this August.I just wanna refer you about this special place and about the kindness of the staff.We stayed in a room near the main place , with his private bath / shower ensuite.The room was incredibly clean and comfortable,the bath absolutely amazing and well refined.The room was located at two steps from the main place:Francamaria made us pay at the check out moment,and provided extra bath and beach towels under request!I suggest you to reserve a room in advance with her, she said me that they're always busy.Thank you Rick for listin such a beautiful places and accomodations on your lovely book!We loved staying at Francamaria , and thank to you our honeymoon was fantastic.
Bill and Shirley Musolino
San Diego, CA USA Tue 10/12/2004
Naples, Hotel Ginerva
The hotel no longer keeps your passport as stated in Rick's 2004 Italy guidebook. However, they demand -- yes, demand -- immediate payment in cash when you check in. Also, I had a confirmed reservation. Despite this, they did not have a room at the quoted price available the first night and tried to charge me an extra seven euros. The room was clean and quiet, but all in all I would avoid this place. The staff is not friendly and is clearly interested in only one thing -- separating you from your money as soon as possible.
Steve <email>
Vista, CA United States Mon 10/11/2004
Rome, Firenze, Assisi
Thank you, Rick Steves and staff, for the wonderful information in your Italy 2004 guidebook. We are confirmed believers. In Rome we stayed at the very clean and comfortable Hotel Spring House, near the Vatican Museum. The staff was very friendly and the breakfast was even better than most American business hotels. Close by is the Cipro metro stop, which was our link to the city. The metro was such a great way to get around; we purchased a weekly pass and used it several times a day. We also really enjoyed the nearby Andrea Doria street market, where we bought our picnic supplies. Nothing in Rome disappointed us--we could live there without hesitation.
Firenze was something of a mixed bag, only because it was so crowded. The museums were fabulous--we absolutely loved the Fra Angelicos at San Marco. And the Mercato Centrale is a must-see for foodies. But our hotel was not a winner. We stayed at Hotel/Pensione Centrale. It was dirty (spotted and stained bed linens, dusty, etc.) and smelled like they cleaned with straight vinegar. The staff was really nice, however. But for the money we decided that next time we would stay in Fiesole and take the bus into town, which takes only 15-20 minutes or so and is a good way to see the more realistic parts of the city.
We had much better luck hotel-wise in Assisi, where we stayed at the other hotel managed by Hotel dei Priori, called Hotel Alexander. It was clean and comfortable, and close to many great restaurants and shops. Assisi was an absolute treat!
Some overall tips:
1. Yes, use a money belt. Don't risk it. We met a guy in the airport who had his wallet stolen the last day of his trip, from a pocket on the leg of his cargo pants (zipped and velcroed). Gone in 1 second.
2. Earplugs. Bring two pair just in case you lose one.
3. A little Italian comprehension and conversation goes a long way. Enjoy meeting people half-way between their English and your Italian.
4. Dont attempt to climb the Dome of St. Peter's in Rome unless you are in very good shape and not very wide. The steps get more narrow as you go up. We are young and athletic, and it we had to stop and rest a few times, but the view from the top was so very worth it.
5. Never pay extra to eat pizza sitting down. The first night we got ripped off by paying 31 euros for two servings of pizza and two cokes; the rest of the trip we took it to go and paid no more than 2.50 for the pizza and 2.50 for each drink. If you are going to pay to sit, make it worth it and order a real dinner.
6. Consider staying at the airport Hilton in Rome, especially if you can use your Hilton Honors points for a free room. It is connected to the airport by a covered walkway, saving taxi fare to the airport. We took the train to the airport and then walked to the hotel at 10pm the night before our return flight to the states, and the next morning we ate a leisurely breakfast and then walked back to the airport. No stress.
Amy and Jason
Tucson, AZ USA Mon 10/11/2004
Reservations
Traveled to Italy first week of June. As per Rick's suggestion, spent two days in Vernazza. It was fabulous. I would recommend reservations in advance. The first comment we heard from other travelers was "I hope you have a room, everything is booked". We did and loved everything about the Cinque Terre!
Linda R <email>
Holly, MI USA Mon 10/11/2004
Italy Feedback
Just got back from Italy yesterday and used the Italy 2004 guide. Here's some feedback on items as recommended in the guide:Accommodations:
Locanda Correr (Venice): Had a wonderful stay. Accomodations were nice and is close to San Marco Piazza. Prices the same as listed in guide and includes breakfast. One thing, do not sleep with the windows open at night or you will get eaten alive by mosquitos (trust me on this as I still have the bites two weeks later).
Albergo Firenze (Florence): So-so hotel in a great part of town. Very central to shopping, eating and sites/museums. Prices were the same as quoted in guide and includes breakfast.
Albergo Cannon D'Oro (Siena): Another so-so hotel. We had a room on the first floor next to the hotel restaurant and overlooking the street. If you stay here, request a room that is not near the restaurant or overlooking the street as it's very noisy (especially if you're going to sleep in like we tried to). The bathroom in our room needed some maintenance, and I almost killed myself getting into the weird bathtub/shower thingy they have. The price was good though and as listed in the book, but did not include breakfast, and the location was central.
Casa Astarita B&B (Sorrento): Wonderful accomodations and very central. You had access to free bottled water and pineapple juice from the refridgerator 24/7 and Lemoncella liquor shots too (yummy!). Price was as quoted in the guide and includes breakfast.
Hotel Nardizzi Americana (Rome): Also nice accomodations and very central to sites and restaurants. We had a nice quiet room with a small balcony that overlooked the courtyard area. The prices were as quoted in the guide and includes breakfast.
American Express Office: We used the one in Venice and Florence. One thing to be aware of is which train stations they book you through. We were not aware that Florence has three train stations, and they booked us through Campo di Marte and not Santa Maria Nuovella (which is the main train station). When we got off the train, we were trying to follow the directions in the Italy guide to find a taxi and were totally lost. We finally had to stop and ask someone where we were and only then found out we were not at the main train station. Other than that, it was well worth using them instead of the train station ticket counter.
Museums in Italy: Some of the prices were the same as in the guide, but others had gone up by a few Euro. Be prepared for this. I'm sure that Rick already knows about this and will make adjustments in the 2005 guide.
Kelly Willis <email>
San Marcos, CA USA Mon 10/11/2004
Euros to Dollars-Hotel Eremo Gaudio
We also had our hotel charges changed from Euros to USDollars, by Hotel Eremo Gaudio, too, in Varenna. And, they were the HIGHEST exchange rates we encountered, in a 28 day trip to Italy. Rick, are you listening?
Linda <email>
spring, tx USA Mon 10/11/2004
Milan hotel recommendation
Based on strong negative comments from several of Rick's fans regarding his home-away-from-home in Milan at the Hotel Speronari, I decided to look elsewhere in the city, and found the Euro Hotel on Via Sirtori. Centrally located, a 2 minute walk from the Porta Venezia subway station, 10 minutes by taxi from Linate Airport, and a 5-minute taxi or 15 minute walk from the Central train station, we found this hotel to be clean, friendly and helpful. They did the advanced booking for the Last Supper reservations that we needed. Several excellent restaurants are close-by, and the continental breakfast included great coffee and cream brioches.
Joe D'Amico <email>
Washington, DC USA Mon 10/11/2004
Eremo Guadio - Varenna
Just a couple feedback items-
The hotel staff was minimally helpful and generally indifferent to us.Be aware that our credit card charges were made only in US dollars based on their own predetermined exchange rate.Other than that the hotel rooms were nice.
Douglas <email>
Zurich, Switzerland, USA Mon 10/11/2004
Italian airport hoax
be careful of the latest scam...If you are redirected to a general ticket counter from the airline you are attempting to check in with, they may make you wait and wait and wait in various lines in order to cause you to be late for your flight, and then they sock you with improper charges just a few minutes before flight time...ours at Peretola Airport in Florence was "excess baggage" (we had the same 2 lightweight bags we left with!). My friends arriving home from Italy yesterday were charged a $39 Euro per ticket "ticket changing fee", plus a $20 Euro "commission", at the airport in Naples. This was supposed to be free, according to Delta. I personally arrived 3 hours before my flight and was still made to feel I was going to miss not only that flight but my connection too!
We (by this time) frantic Americans will pay whatever is asked just to get on with our trips, and in order to make our flights back home. Delta was appalled when we reported this hoax to them, and they want to stop it. If you face the same thing, PLEASE DO REPORT IT TO YOUR AIRLINE AND SAVE THE RECEIPTS FOR THESE RIDICULOUS HYPED UP CHARGES. THIS MUST BE STOPPED!!!
Ellie Mae <email>
Miami, FL USA Sat 10/09/2004
Errors in Italy 2004, and London 2004
We just returned from a 28 day trip to Italy. We flew from the USA, to London for one night. while in london, we searched for a cafeteria/buffet restaurant, in Rick's London 2004 book. After searching for 30 minutes, we asked a local about it. they said the restaurant was very good, but had closed over a year ago.
Then, we went to Italy. We took Rick's 2004 Italy book. Although there were many helpful hints (as usual), we found numerous errors in pricing--and the errors were always higher than quoted in the book.also, some things were no longer there--such as the 8 hr pass that was quoted as available, in Venice, on their ferry. Now they only offer a 24 hr pass, and that pass was higher than the book quoted.Or the travel agency, that sells train tickets, in Varenna. Not only were the 2 women rude, they sold us 1st class point-to-point tickets on a train--and of the 3 trains that came by, as we waited, there never was a first class car. They also would only accept cash--no credit cards.
I know prices will change. After numerous errors, we decided to not be "surprised" if something wasn't there, or was higher priced. I think someone needs to pay a bit more attention to the details of the books.......
Linda <email>
spring, texas USA Wed 10/06/2004
Italy - Sept/Oct 2004
My daughter and I hostelled through Northern Italy the last two weeks of September and found the Rick Steves books valuable for hostel reviews, although we found some of the restaurant recommended were crowded and expensive - the price of success I guess.
The hostel in Lake Como is small and friendly, Venice is noisy, but centrally located, Florence has a killer driveway (up hill)- but well run, lots of interesting travellers there, the Beehive in Roma was great - well-run and close to the train station. We stayed in an apartment in Rioggamore in Cinque Terre .. Edi was a character and the price was right .. on the "main street" instead of near the water. The hostel in Milan is a converted school, institutional and noisy .. no curfew, but we had no choice, it was "Fashion Week" and no reasonalbly priced accomodation to be had.
If you're going to shop at McArthur Glen, take a direct train from Milan or Genoa.. it took us 3 1/2 hrs transferring twice .. getting there on Sunday seems to be more difficult than during the week. Mostly over-priced, but if you know your prices there are deals to be had.
You can't trust train information from the internet, especially from smaller centres .. you can trust the display in the local station.Most of the announcements are in Italian .. We experienced a train strike in Siena and Rick's tip that there are some trains that run despite the strike alerted us to get on that one .. giving us one more day in Cinque Terre instead of the Siena train station.
We used the Rick Steves walking guides and found we had more than enough information - for Verona, Venice, Florence and Rome.
I'd skip Siena next time, but we loved Verona, Assisi and the Lake regions.
Take bug spray .. there are mosquitos in some of the rural areas.
Bonnie S <email>
Vancouver, BC CDA Wed 10/06/2004
Italy
If you are thinking about Sorrento or the Amalfi region, check out the Hotel Il Nido above Sorrento. We just returned from a week there - perfect. Reliable and regular minibus, free internet, best food we had in Sorrento. Great location and atmosphere
Dave Lace <email>
Frisco, CO USA Tue 10/05/2004
Sena bus from Siena to Rome
I just returned from Italy a couple of weeks ago. While the guide book was helpful in most every way, the information about the Sena bus in Siena seems to have changed. The book says that the bus office at Piazza Gramsci is closed on Sun. and that you may buy your tickets from the bus driver. When the bus arrived the driver wouldn't sell us tickets and sent us to the office, which was open. (It's underground, so we didn't realize it was open until it was too late.) Needless to say we missed the bus and ended up taking a very long train trip to Rome.
Robin <email>
Dallas, TX USA Mon 10/04/2004
Northern Italy
Northern Italy in Three Weeks“Rick Steve’s, you’ve done it again!” Our third European Holiday independently planned with the help of accurate up-to-date information from Rick Steve’s guidebooks, videos, graffiti wall, train passes, and baggage for a fabulous adventure. My husband and I traveled flawlessly by train (purchased 5 day 1st Class Trenitalia Pass from Rick Steve’s and a few point to points). Our holiday took place the last three weeks of August 2004 with wonderful weather (rain total = only two hours, one afternoon during siesta in Venezia).
Spending three nights in each of the six enchanting places in northern Italy, was just enough time to absorb the essence of the locality and allow for hassled free travel. The amazing cities and comfy places we stayed and highly recommend are as follows:
1. Albergo Hotel Eremo Gaudio (www.eremogaudio.it) Varenna, Lake Como
2. Hotel Tianes (www.tianes.it) Kastelruth, The Dolomites (Italian Alps)
3. Hotel Alla Salute “Da Cici” (www.hotelsalute.com) Venice (Venezia)
4. Hotel Globus (www.hotelglobus.com) Florence (Firenza)
5. Tonino Basso (www.toninobasso.com) Vernazza, Cinque Terre (Italian Riviera)
6. Hotel Saini Meuble (www.hotelsaini.it) Stresa, Lake Maggiore
Each place is near local attractions, yet in quiet safe environments. We had boundless opportunities surrounding us for remarkable cultural experiences by natures natural beauty or historical artistic charm. The staff and amenities of each establishment ensured our every comfort. Enjoyable breakfasts were served with distinctively flavorful regional specialties. The delectable Italian cuisine of wines, cheeses, breads, local produces, and desserts (Gelato!) are all prepared and presented with great pride and taste indulgences.
Standing or walking beside immensely old architecture and artistic masterpieces was truly magnificent. Travel offers many opportunities for countless experiences to delight and revive all of the senses, sight, smell, sounds, and touch. They all inspire the spirit within us. You gain a new perspective of life itself throughout time making the world timeless. Visit each website listed above and view their photos, then imagine 100% more beauty because it is multiplied by all the senses.
A “WOW” moment from each place is as follows:
1. Awe-inspiring view of charming Varenna & the encircling Alps of Lake Como from our enclosed in nature beautiful room’s balcony!
2. Walking grassy alpine meadows with Tyrolean flavor and the Hotel Taines tour of the dramatic peaks of the majestic Dolomites!
3 Immersed in the decaying (but very clean) charm of a timeless city and the romantic canals unlike any other – Venice, incredible!
4. The time warp crossed – just being in the environment where the wonder of labor, life, and love created the birth of Renaissance Art - Florence!
5. Hiking the breathtaking cliffs along the turquoise seas of Cinque Terre and the fun loving, enjoyable character of the twin brothers of Il Pirate II in Vernazza.!
6. Absorbed in impressive manicured gardens, three fascinating bella islands, and the grand old lakeside palace hotels painting a historical look at European aristocratic holidays of long ago!
We have found traveling with the wisdom shared by Rick Steves, you will be assured to have the time of your life, plan ahead, keep open mind, and live for each new adventure.
Beverly Larsen <email>
Naples, FL USA Thu 09/30/2004
Rome hotels
"Italy 2004" listed the two hotels my husband and I stayed in while in Rome earlier this month. I'm pleased to report that Hotel Sonya, which Rick found "impersonal," seems to have improved its touch: We were greeted in our room with a bottle of chilled sparkling wine to help us celebrate our anniversary (which I had mentioned to them in an email months ago). What a delightful surprise!
As for Hotel Aberdeen, we loved this place even more because of its quaint and all-marble rooms. Both hotels were a good value.
Deb Elkink <email>
Medicine Hat, AB Canada Thu 09/30/2004
Hiking and sleeping in Cinque Terre
While Cinque Terre was beautiful, we found the "four-hour" walk between the towns on the "easy" red-and-white trail to be much more advanced than the guide indicated, especially since we chose to walk it from the difficult to easy end on the hottest day in September! Several hikers we met on the way were also surprised at the level of difficulty compared to their expectations of the hike from reading Rick's 2004 guidebook. Be warned: Wear sturdy shoes and take lots of water.
A note on hotels: Vernazza was crowded and we found it too noisy for sleeping, so relocated to Monterosso al Mare. However, all of Rick's recommended lodgings were full, so we asked one of these hotel owners for a recommendation and ended up at the lovely (and Italian-speaking) Villa Accini. Check it out!
Deb Elkink <email>
Medicine Hat, AB Canada Thu 09/30/2004
Cinque Terre
I've just returned from my second trip to the Cinque Terre and I know I've found paradise. I was there last July and stayed in Vernazza at an apartment of Patrizia's again. Last year I had a very hard time finding a room and was referred to Patrizia by the people who run Affita Camere de Baranin. So this year when I purchased my 2004 Rick Steves Italy book I was thrilled beyond belief to see that Patrizia was included in Rick's book.
Patrizia has four different apartments some are small studios and others can accomodate three people. The little studio we've stayed at is just a short walk from the station up the typical steep steps of Vernazza. It is small but there's a view right over the street facing the Blue Marlin and in the morning you can smell the fresh pasteries baking - just thinking about it makes my mouth water. With the windows open you can hear the trains coming and going but you get used to it.
Patrizia is a gem, when we arrived in Vernazza I called her and she was there in a few minutes helping us with luggage up to the apartment ( Sorry Rick I still won't learn to pack the way you teach us ). When we went to Patrizia's home to pay for our stay we were invited in to meet her new baby ( she was pregnant last summer so it was nice to meet the family ). We told her we would definately be back next year to enjoy a bit of heaven she calls home. She told us next time call her and tell her what time we'd be there and then just go to the apartment the door would be unlocked for us.
My only small complaint was all of the Cinque Terre was over run with tourists. I would have figured that by the end of September it would have been quieter. Eveyrone was nice and yes the Americans were enjoying themselves all carrying their RS guidebook - I stopped counting after 15 of them. I guess it's a spoiled American idea that I want to enjoy Vernazza without the crowds of people who are also enjoying it with me. I guess I just have to get out to the beach or rocks earlier then I have a better choice to soak up the sun and enjoy paradise.
Vickie LeVan <email>
Jacksonville, FL USA Wed 09/29/2004
Souther Italy and Matera
We used the Rick Steves travel book for our trip in Rome and to the Amalfi coast with great sucess, however, part of our trip was to the deep south (the region of Bascillicata). We had to special order a book on southern Italy because Ricks book didnt go much further than the Amalfi coast. Rick, the southern part of Italy is beautiful and like the rest of Italy, full of history.
One place that I would definately like to mention is the ancient city of Matera. This was one of the big highlights of the trip. Rick I'm sure you know about Matera and if you dont, check it out, I think your readers would love to know about this place. Matera is supposedly the oldest inhabited town in the world, parts of Matera date back to 2000 B.C. Matera has the Sassi homes, which are the cave homes. These are slowly being reinhabited and refurbished. This is a pretty remote part of Italy, we rented a car and drove there, it was an easy drive. Not a lot of english is spoken in this area, its a bit off the tourist path. When we were there, we didnt see one tourist that spoke english. Matera is approximately a four to five hour drive from the Naples area. I noticed a few B&Bs within the old part of Matera.
While we were staying on the Amalfi coast we stayed at Il Nido B & B, not mentioned in your book, but I found it through this message board. It was the best! A family run B & B, they couldn't have been more helpful. We ended up coming to Sorrento five days earlier than planned, we called the day before and asked if they had a room. They said they only had a room with no view and that if we wanted we could come look at it and if we didnt like it they would help us find another place to stay. We loved the room and the place, Im so glad we stayed. The first night the matress on the bed was really hard, I mentioned this to one of the brothers and when we returned to our room that evening, we had a new softer mattress - great service. The food was the best of all in Italy. One of the brothers does the cooking. The dining room has a view of the Amalfi coast line and Naples. I would never consider going to any other place to stay while on the Amalfi coast. Rick you've got to include El Nido in your next book.
Heather Villavicencio <email>
San Rafael, CA USA Wed 09/29/2004
cold B/B owners
My experience with using Rick's book is that when the Hotel/B&Bs/Hostels gets listed in his book, they get so much business that they lose the edge to compete. for example, the hostel in Capri used to pick up people at the port, now not anymore and the price jumped from 21 euro to 28 euro for a shared room, that is high for me. I stayed at anther one one that was recommeded and the manager was very cold, it was one of the most cold reception I have ever received even though I was in such a beautiful place in Cinque Terre.
I ate a two of the restaurants Rick recommeded in Monterosso, again it was so packed and crowded, I could not get waiter's attention,one of the waitress was so rude that some of the A group of Italian guest walked away. It was filled with Americans and Rick steve goers. The train runs on top the restaurant, couldn't get any peace, could't have a nice dinner. (Rest. Belvedere) my first evening was not so enjoyble.
The other one where he recommended the fish ravioli L'Alta Marea,the portion was small, and not so tasty, it was so so, I still had the best crab ravioli in California. I am in Italy, I expect they would have higher quality than in USA. The coperto for bread is a joke, the bread is like paper, dry tastless.
Also, many of the places are closed off season because they do so well in the high season, so it makes planning a bit hard with the book.
I do appreciate his advices on getting out of Malpensa airport to riding railway in Milan Central and theft alert. The private train line in Naples to Pompeii is helpful and how to get around Amalfi area.I wish that the busines you listed would stay on a competitive edge on service and price even though they are in you book.
Still, Cinque Terre remain in my memories even with all the luke warm hostpitality, I still enjoyed the place. It is so beautiful I plan to go back, but not the same establishments as the first time. Perhaps I will have better luck next time.
ymz <email>
sc, CA USA Wed 09/29/2004
Siena and Vernazza
My husband and I just returned from 2 weeks in Italy with Rick Steves' books as guides. The Albergo Bernini Hotel in Siena was really comfortable and the hosts were very accommodating. Perfect location!
In Vernazza we stayed at Giuliano's quaint little place in the side of the hills surrounded by vineyards. It was very clean and the view was awesome. Giuliano himself couldn't have been more charming!
The Il Pirata pastry shop up the street had the best pastries, fresh each day with unbeatable cappuccinos! Great experience!
Becky Swanson <email>
Nampa, ID USA Tue 09/28/2004
Everything is closed November
Dear Rick:
I have called many of your listings in your book for Italy.
1. Villa Eleana in Varenna
2. Seliano Estate in Pompeii
3. Briskett Hostel in Postiano
4. Parri Farmhouse near Siena.and many others all closed in november
I am having a hard time planning for November with your book. The ones that are open are expensive hotels that will break my budget. It would be helpful if you tell us when they will close.
MAZ <email>
SC, CA USA Tue 09/28/2004
Hotels Rome
We returned from Italy early September and want to sing praises about Hotel Diplomatic in Rome.It is located on 28 Via Vittoria Colonna on the Vatican side of the city. The area is quiet but central to everything (10 minute walk to St Peters, 5 minutes to Via Del Corso)The room are small but clean and the bathrooms are truly modern. All staff were very, very helpful and so friendly.
We were traveling with teenagers, who speak no Italian, (16 and 18) and they were comfortable enough to go to the area's cafes bars and grocery store(there is one less than a block away) on their own. We did book these accomodations in Canada and saved money by doing so. We will definitely stay here again
k Masiero <email>
sudbury, ON Canada Sat 09/25/2004
Veduta Santa Chiara
Veduta Santa Chiara - ASSISI Do not stay at this place, or try to stay here. They cancel reservations without any reason, and also charge more than listed in Rick's book. Don't waste your time.
Jack Cullen <email>
Raleigh, NC USA Fri 09/24/2004
Alimandi, Nardizzi, pickpockets
We arrived in Rome and planned to first visit the Vatican. We stayed at the guidebook recommended Hotel Alimandi and it was perfect! Free and good transportation from the airport, a block away from the Vatican Museum and three blocks from the Metro, and the best breakfast in Italy.
On the back end of our trip we stayed at the Hotel Nardizzi, which was also very nice. It was very convenient to the train station, the Metro, and the ruins. Although there are elevators, we negotiated lots of stairs. The staff was helpful in every way requested.
Beware of pickpockets! I have travelled to Europe a half dozen times without problems. This time was different.
Dennis Siemsen <email>
Oak Ridge, TN USA Fri 09/24/2004
Siena
While we were in Siena, we stayed at the Alma Domus. It was entirely satisfactory with a great location, great views from the rooms (we had three), and a great value. The staff was brisk, but pleasant. Air conditioners are automatically shut off at 11pm. We loved it.
If you stay there, eat at the Ristorante La Pizzaria di nonno Mede at the top of the street. The food is great, the view fantastic. It was definitely the best meal in four days in Siena. Almost all locals there.
We also ate at the guidebook recommended Ristorante Gallo Nero. Although the setting was good, the food was disappointing and I don't think there was a single local in the place - very touristy - drop it.
Dennis Siemsen <email>
Oak Ridge, TN USA Fri 09/24/2004
Italy
Went to Italy, June '04. The overnight train from Prague to Firenze is a must. There is a porter on every car with an espresso machine, beer and wine. But I digress. The Hotel Centrale says they are going to remodel starting in November 2004. Will be shut down for a bit. This is a wonderful place. The service is exceptional, price is reasonable, and drinks with the Albanien law student, night bartender were very entertaining and informative. Had our 20th anneversary at Cafe Bibo in Florence. Everybody gets a small flute of champian, (thought it was just us) what a great place.>p>
Hiked all the trails of the Cinque Terre. My only hint besides, DON'T MISS THIS PLACE, is take the train from Vernazza (where we stayed) to Corniglia, and hike back to Vernazza. This saves a bunch of elevation gain. Can't wait to see the Cinque Terre again. Stayed with Franco Maria, off the harbor in Vernazza. Great price for no view. Very clean with a little noise from people walking by on the street, but I would go back. Could not beleive the number of Rick Steves books at every location. My wife started saying "let us read from the book of Steves" We swear by all the advice.
Kevin Neitzel <email>
Boise, Id. USA Thu 09/23/2004
lake como
Just got back from Europe last night and want to say how helpful your book was. Stayed at the albergo milano in varenna, good food and a beautiful view of the lake. Please warn your travelers arriving by ferry to take the road up to the hotel. No taxis in sight ,they are at the railroad station.Unknowingly we took the path by the lake and had to carry our luggageup about 500 steps.For travelers going to lugano or further from varenna, bellagio, or menaggio take a cab. The cost is much cheaper and quicker than going back to como or milan . Its the same train. The railroad was on strike in italy as usual
don meneghetti <email>
walnut creek, ca USA Tue 09/21/2004
hotels
When possible we booked the hotels Rick recommended and were pleased with them. In Sorrento, La Tonnarella and Hotel del Mare were both great. Our favorite was the Hotel Savoia in Positano because of the spacious attractive rooms, great views from our balcony, and central location. In Rome, I contacted six of the hotels from Rick's book, but they were all full. So I booked Hotel Giuliana recommended on trip advisor. What a disappointment! The staff were helpful, but the 145 euro room was on a noisy street and inferior to the other places we stayed.
JoAnne Nielsen <email>
Mukilteo, WA USA Wed 09/22/2004
GREAT GELLATO IN MILAN
We found a out of the way Gellateria in Milan right by PECK's Deli. It appeared to be one of those snobby over priced places BUT it turned out for us to be a great affordable(by Milan standards) place.
If you get a chance swing by VICTOR HUGO CAFFE on Via Spadari (same block as Pecks Deli on the left hand side of the street on the corner). They have been making Gellato for over 100 years. Try the stawberry and peach combo. It was voted the best Gellato in our book!
Sanchez Couple <email>
San Diego, ca USA Sat 09/18/2004
ITALY 2004 SEPT
First time to Italy. Sister and brother in law visited in May 2004 and they passed on the RS book on to us and advised we would NEED THIS BOOK to make our trip successful! We had a fantastic time. My husband isn't much of a reader and both of us are quite fanatical planners and are not quite the venturers. "The BOOK" as we reffered to it for 15 days was PERFECT and we could not have experienced ITALY ( Rome, Florence, Milan and Venice) as we did without your publication, recomendation are all right on the mark. The previews and snip its of where to go based on the ratings made our daily planning so much easier (rather than making a job). IF YOU CAN RESERVE FOR EVERYTHING WHEN EVER POSSIBLE!!
Sanchez Couple <email>
San Diego, CA USA Sat 09/18/2004
Hotel Villa Steno, Monterosso, Cinque Terre
We used Rick Steves' recommendations for most of our hotels on our honeymoon this past June and they were ALL wonderful. And boy did we wish we had used his book in Venice, we stayed in Locanda SS Giovanni e Paolo and it was terrible! Here are our thoughts on our hotel in the Cinque Terre region:
Monterosso al Mare (Cinque Terre) - Hotel Villa Steno, room 4, 125E per night cash for a double room with private bathrooom, breakfast, and balcony overlooking the lemon groves and sea. We cannot say enough wonderful things about Hotel Villa Steno! When we checked in we were given a most helpful information packet about the Cinque Terre with boat and train schedules, as well as a glass of the local sweet dessert wine. I cannot remember the name of it, but it was 18% alcohol and we certainly felt it on an empty stomach! The hotel is situated a short walk up some steps from the old town and is very quiet. We felt like we were staying in a garden, as there are fruit trees and flowers EVERYWHERE. Breakfast was fantasic (cereals, breads, meats, yogurts, eggs, etc.) and was served from 8am - 10am in their breakfast room or big balcony overlooking the sea. We ate on their baloncy a couple of times and brought it back to our own balcony once when there was no room - they didn't mind and came and picked up the dishes themselves when they cleaned the room.
The hotel was very quiet and their laundry service was most convenient. Guests can "rent" big beach towels for 3E (if you buy one in town it will cost you at least 15E and it will unravel within about a day!). We have already reserved Hotel Villa Steno again for 3 nights this coming May, we loved it that much!
Jill Briesch <email>
Denver, CO USA Wed 09/15/2004
Car Breakdown Caveat
When my husband and I were in Tuscany this past year, our car broke down -- the transmission locked and we couldn't get it out of third gear. We were miles from our hotel and not all downhill! Many Italian men and women came to our rescue. But, we discovered, horrifyingly to our surprise, that you cannot call and "800" number from a cellphone -- all the people who helped gave us access to theirs -- the only number that Hertz gave us for emergencies.
When you rent, make sure you have a number that can be accessed from a cell when you rent your car. Ask for a number in the area where you're travelling.We drove the car to our hotel in 3rd, destroyed the clutch, but we would have been stranded if the car was not able to be driven unless a good Samaritan drove us to our hotel.
When we contacted Hertz, they were very helpful, but couldn't understand our problem -- of course you can't call 800numbers from cells. So why do you give that as an emergency number? we asked. Blank stare. Etc. etc. We never did make our point. But beware.This is the third time we've broken down in Europe -- have made scores of trips. Glad it ended well. This time, we'll be armed with a battery of numbers.
Louise DeSalvo <email>
Upper Montclair, NJ USA Tue 09/14/2004
Recent visit to Italy
Just got back from a whirldwind 10 days in Italy. Flew into Rome and out of Milan. On the way went to Assisi, Florence, Civita, San Gimignano, Sienna, Cinque Terre, Venice and the Dolomites. All were fantastic.
Walked right into the Academia in Florence and walked up to the ticket window at Door number 2 at Uffizi for reservations later in the day no problems at all. We had a car for our trip and drove to Florence on a Sunday. The Fortezza parking was hard to find due to construction so we parked for free along the river in a blue lined spot and walked maybe 3-4 blocks to the Uffizi gallery.
Parking in Sienna was almot impossible. Super crowded but we finally made it into one of the lots near the stadium... I think it was at the Fort. Climbed the clock tower for some great views. The stairs are VERY narrow at the top so if you have claustrophobia issues prob. not the thing for you.
If you do a villa or farmhouse through the Argitourismo website service I would double check on directions wherever you stay. We stayed at Villa Costaglia near Pistoia (which i would not recommed, the town is jam packed with traffic in the mornings and afternoons so it takes forever to get to the autostrade but it is neat Florence) and our directions off the website were awful and basically out right backwards. it took us forever, with the help of very nice people along the road, to finally find it.
Venice, I recommend Locanda Di Orsaria near the train station and at the far end of the Grand Canal. I got that tip off the boards here and it was a good one. Modern bath, good price, breakfast in your room, not too far to lug luggage and then in the morning get the day pass for the vaporetto and cruise the canal past St. Marks one or two stops then walk back up. Very lovely. Visit the Doge's palace. Incredible inside and also no one was in there. A great escape from the crowds in the square.
Cinque Terre-- awesome awesome awesome. Stayed in Monte Rosso b/c of the car but the parking was cheap and right on the beach. Staying here was a last minute change in plans but we found a room at Hotel Baia. The trattoria 2 doors down had great seafood risotto and also a nice insalta della marinara with the freshest seafood I have eaten in my life.The Guvano beach is worth the hike through the damp freaky tunnel as the beach is not crowded and the water and views are excellent.
If you go north the Dolomites are wortht the trip. Absolutely fantastic! We parked in Suis and took the gondola up to the main ski town then rode a second open air ski lift to the meadow in the mountains and ate outside at the Panorama Inn. Had an interesting combo of Italian past and Austrian beer but what views! Food and prices were good here too. Some of the best food we had the whole trip.
In Rome we stayed at the International Palace on Via Nazionale. Close to the train station, subway and all the sites around the Colisseum, Forum, Pantheon etc. Very easy to walk to all of them. If you go to the Vatican the extra Euros to walk to the top of the dome and go inside and then walk to the cupola are worth it! thought I was going to drop dead by the time I got to the top of the Cupola but the views could not be beat. Inside the dome being on the cat walk looking at the incredible mosaics all around I do not think I will ever get over... the gift shop on top of the dome is funny too --just the idea of it being up there. We sat and wrote postcards to family and took a rest then started the climb back down.Can't wait to go back and see all the things we could not get to on this trip!
Diane Neal <email>
Alexandria, VA USA Tue 09/14/2004
Milan Hotel
Milan--Don't stay at Hotel Speronari It was a dump. There were bums begging in front. No A/C. Scarey for women. They did a bait and switch move on us. Our booked room was on the 4th floor and the staircase was too narrow to get up with suitcases. We paid $10 more for the first floor.
Cheryl Brown <email>
Glenview, IL USA Sun 09/12/2004
Italy!!!
Just got back from my three-week honeymoon in Italy. We brought along Rick’s Italy 2004 book and Rome 2004 book. Here are notes and tips from my trip:
VENICE- Accommodation: We stayed at the Locanda SS Giovanni E Paolo (www.locandassgiovanniepaolo.com) near Piazza Santa Maria and the Fondamente Nove vaporetto stop. The rooms were spacious, had a nice view, had a modern bathroom, came with breakfast delivered to your room, and best of all, had no TVs. David and Hafiz were especially helpful during our stay. We stayed in Venice for four nights. Food: We ate at Accademia Pizzeria Foscarini and at Trattoria San Toma. Both places were great. Order the “Menu Veneziano” from Trattoria San Toma.
Tips:
1. At 11:30 p.m., most of the vaporettos that go through the Grand Canal stop running. However, line number N (“Night”) runs every 20 minutes or so from Piazzale Roma. We had to learn this the hard way.
2. To save money, try to avoid riding the vaporettos through the Grand Canal if all you need to do is to get to the train station. If you can, ride the number 42 line, which charges € 2 less than the other lines and enables you to see the Jewish ghetto.
3. For the gondola ride, search out the gondoliers that are off the beaten path. Try to avoid the main tourist thoroughfares like the Rialto Bridge. On our last night in Venice my wife and I were in a rush to ride a gondola so we settled on one near the Rialto. He charged us € 100 up front for 20 measly minutes!
4. Visit the Campanile at the end of the day, there are no lines and it’s nice and cool up there.
CINQUE TERRE- Accommodation: We stayed at one of Tonino Basso rooms at the top of Vernazza. We loved this room cause it had free Internet access and it was very clean. Tonino was extremely nice and helpful. Plus, we ate at his restaurant, Gambero Rosso, where he hooked us up with special bread, schiaccetra, and some dessert.
Food: We ate at all three of Vernazza’s harbor restaurants- Trattoria del Capitano, Trattoria Gianni, and Gambero Rosso. Order the pansotti with walnut sauce from Capitano and the Panna Cotta dessert; from Trattoria Gianni order the spaghetti vongole (spaghetti with mussels and clams) and the trofie with pesto; and from Gambero Rosso order the fried seafood antipasti and of course the schiaccetra wine. For our breakfasts, we went to Il Pirate, run by the affable twin brothers. You must try the cannoli and the very thick hot chocolate. Plan to stay there for at least an hour so that you can hear the brothers’ many stories and jokes.
Tips:
1. The Cinque Terre card is a must if you plan to hike all five towns, use the town shuttles, and use the milk-run train.
2. If going there in the warm months, stake out your spot on the valuable Vernazza beachfront early.
3. Bring plenty of water (at least 1.5L per person) if you plan to hike the towns. If you run out, there is a fresh water fountain at the Corniglia stop.
4. Monterosso-al-Mare has beautiful beaches, but the free section is small.
5. Pack a lunch consisting of local foccacia bread, prosciutto, fresh fruits, and iced tea. Inexpensive and delicious.
PISA- We stopped at Pisa on the way to Florence. We stored our bags at the Pisa train station and took the local city bus to the Campo di Miracoli (about 10 minutes). Pisa is very touristy and seems to be overwhelmed by cheesy souvenir stands. We spent about an hour and a half there which seems enough.
FLORENCE- Accommodations: We stayed three nights at the Bellevue House on Via della Scala, very close to the train station. It is on the fourth floor so it is not for the faint of heart. However, once you get there you will see why Rick recommended this place. Very spacious rooms, huge bathrooms, powerful AC, and free breakfast at the local cafes on the street below. Giacomo was extremely helpful because he booked our Uffizi and Accademia reservations for us.
Food: We ate cheaply at Florence. We ate at Self-Service Ristorante Leonardo, close to the Duomo. The food is served cafeteria-style, but the food is not your typical cafeteria food. My wife and I ate heartily for € 20, including salad and dessert. We ate there a couple of times.
Tips:
1. Reservations are a must at the Accademia and the Uffizi Gallery. We estimate we saved about 2 hours of wait time at the Accademia and 3 hours at the Uffizi.
2. Get the audioguide for the Uffizi. It is worth it.
3. The Boboli Gardens is a nice way to take a break from all the museums and art. It’s on the other side of the Arno River.
4. The best photo opportunities for the Ponte Vecchio is at sunset.
5. A nice way to end your day is to take the bus up to the Piazzale Michelangelo. Grab a camera, a light sweater, and a loved one and watch the sun set over Florence.
SIENA- We day-tripped to Siena from Florence. We took the train because we had purchased the Trenitalia Rail Pass (although it would have saved us 50% if we bought our train tickets as we went, but with the pass we never had to go on the ticket lines- just hop on a train and go). At the train station, cross the street and catch the bus to the town center. We loved the baroque Siena Duomo. Also, my wife and I happened to visit Siena on the first day of Palio, a neighborhood vs neighborhood horse race on the Il Campo. There were thousands and thousands of people packed in the square. What an experience!
Tips: 1. If you are there during Palio, stake out a spot at the edge of the square, preferably closest to the government building. This is the best spot at seeing the horses emerge from their holding area and the bigwigs. 2. For panforte, we bought some at Nannini’s on the main road. It’s delicious as a snack.
ROME- Accommodations: For the first two nights, my wife and I stayed at the five-star Hotel Hassler, situated on the top of the Spanish Steps, thanks to my wife’s workplace. The third and fourth nights we stayed at the Hotel Aberdeen near Piazza Repubblica on Via Firenze. Nice, clean, and helpful, although it’s difficult to assess the hotel after a five-star stay at the Hassler.
Food: We ate at Ristorante La Rustichella near the Vatican Museum. Delicious. They have an antipasti buffet for € 8, so you might not need to order the first and second plates. For gelato we had Gelateria Millennium, right next to La Rustichella. € 1.50 for two scoops? You can’t go wrong.A big recommendation goes to Caffe dello Studente, near the Colosseum. We walked there on the way to the church and Simone saw us toting Rick’s Rome 2004 book. She immediately sat us down, with no extra charge, and served us complimentary cold drinks and appetizers. She then recommended house special sandwiches for lunch and at the end she served us- free of charge- dessert wine! Simone and her family symbolize the quintessential Italian family. Thanks Simone!
Tips:
1. A good and efficient itinerary would be to do Palatine Hill, Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Capitol Hill museums all on one day. They are all situated next to each other. You can also add St.Peter-in-Chains (houses Michelangelo’s Moses).
2. Another good itinerary is to do St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum in one day. Don’t leave the Raphael Rooms and the Sistine Chapel for the end- both of these close at least 45 minutes before closing time.
3. Rome has numerous aqueduct-powered water fountains. Use these to save money on buying bottled water. The water is cold and pure.
4. Visit Trastevere at night (8 p.m.) If you decide to go there on a weekend night, they have a riverside festival. You can get a € 5 Greek BBQ dinner and shop for inexpensive arts and crafts.
5. Always have in your daypack a shawl (or light scarf). You’ll always need it to cover yourself at churches (especially at St.Peter’s, where they are extremely strict about the dress code. Do not wear shorts and tops that do not cover the shoulders- you will get turned away).
Overall, my wife and I loved Italy. Try the ciccheti bars in Venice, sunbathe with the locals at the Cinque Terre, go to the Oltrarno in Florence, and explore Trastevere in Rome. Don’t be afraid to explore. If you have any questions about Italy please e-mail me. We would not have had a successful trip had it not been for Rick Steves. Thanks Rick!
Paolo <email>
Lakewood, CA USA Sat 09/11/2004
Mailing Packages from Italy
Mailing purchases home to keep travel light was a great help....but only send the mailer type envelopes at the Italian Post Office because of the new regulations regarding boxes, etc.you will spend over an hour with them,and it still won't be right. It costs 35-50% less then UPS or FED-EX,Mail Boxes Etc, but must admit it only took 5-10 minutes at the expediting services and everything got home A-OK.
Susan <email>
Birmingham, MI USA Wed 09/08/2004
Milan and train station
Used Rick's Italy book and map almost every day on my 35 day travels all over Italy and Sicily this summer and it was great. Details about Milan train station were really helpful. Had a 10 day Trenitalia pass and by myself mostof the time, so I relied on my guide book much of the time for hotels,maps,historic site info. Loved it. The Malpensa express from the train station to airport was a good choice at E4.50.
Susan <email>
Birmingham, Mi. USA Wed 09/08/2004
Transportation Advice -Naples/Amalfi Coast
Thanks for the recommendation of Salvatore Lucibello of DriveAmalfi (driveamalfi@hotmail.com) for our transfers from Naples to Ravello and from Positano back to Naples. He was the calmest most patient driver we have ever used in Italy and his 20 years service at the best hotel in Amalfi certainly showed. This is an area where you need a good reliable sa