More Feedback on Rick Steves' Italy 2004
Please share any ways we can improve or fix this guidebook. Are there recommendations in this book that disappointed you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
(Please note: Feedback on specific hotels, costs, etc. is deleted yearly after Rick uses it to update his guidebook. However, general, timeless recommendations are left here online.)
I went to Italy for the 4th time this past August. It was the first time
using Rick Steves' guide & it really was invaluable. I bought Mona A Guide in Naples Area
We cannot say enough about the cab driver who wheedled us into allowing him to drive us to Sorrento from Napoli. Our train companions were resolute in their refusal to succumb to his importunings, gravely citing Rick Steves. We felt that they had misunderstood a friendly piece of advice and we relented.
Guilio Manzone, our driver, was personable, helpful and almost every other positive -ful word you can imagine. He drove us around to Pompeii, Herculaneum and Vesuvius a few days later. We were with him for over 9 hours. We saved time, aggravation and worry, We recommend him highly. His mobile is 3391693204,home 0815430252
Paul and Sara <email>
Newburyport , MA USA Thu 12/30/2004
Best Pizza in All of Italy!!!
BEST PIZZA IN ALL OF ITALY!!!
We just returned from a trip to Italy - our sixth trip to Italy. All I can say is - if your're going anywhere near the Cinque Terre, you need to stop in Vernazza! Not only is it the most beautiful of the Cinque Terre towns, but it has a little pizza place that has the best pizza in all of Italy (and we've been all over Italy from the southern tip to the northern- most areas)!!! It is Pizzeria da Ercole located on Via Visconti in Vernazza. You can't miss it - Vernazza has one main cobblestone street leading straight down to the harbor from the train station. Pizzeria da Ercole is on your left heading downward toward the harbor when you leave the train station.
The pizza here is prepared the old way and cooked in a wood-burning oven. It is fantastic!!! And they will put anything you want on it!! I kid you not, this is the best pizza in all of Italy - it beats even Naples which is the birthplace of pizza!!! The place is often crowded with locals (it seems they all eat here)!! If you're lucky, Bartolo will be there - he's the owner's son and speaks perfect English and a very nice Italian gentleman too! Gosh, I can taste the pizza now and I'm ready to head back!!! I love Vernazza - the people are so nice there and so friendly! Ah, Italia!! If you go there and you see Bartolo, tell him that a couple from Houston TX area (East Bernard) recommended Pizzeria da Ercole and said to tell him "hi"!! Can't wait until we go back to the Cinque Terre - it was so wonderful!!! And we'll definitely be headed to the best pizza place in all of Italy!!
Melvin & Jimmie Horelica <email>
East Bernard, TX USA Wed 12/29/2004
Our photos and recommendations for Italy
For anyone interested, we have a web site of our trip to Italy in June of 2001. Aside from the pictures of us having a great time (thanks to our guru St. Rick), we have included a listing of the places we stayed, what they charged us, and our opinionated review of the room. Hope you find it useful in planning your trip. http://users.adelphia.net/~tabacchi/italy.htm
Ken Tabacchi <email>
Redondo Beach, CA USA Tue 12/28/2004
Siena - Hotel Canon D'Oro
Used the book all through Italy. Fantastic B&B's with one exception: Siena. Hotel Canon D'Oro was not up to snuff. Smelled of sewage. Shower drain was plugged. Rude staff. Would look elsewhere in Siena.
Erik
Edmonton, AB CAN Sat 12/25/2004
Hotel Nuovo Milan
My wife and I were in Italy a couple of weeks ago and had a great time. The book was a huge help in finding places to stay as well as things to do. However, in Milan we stayed at the Hotel Nuovo listed in the book. The location was great, just around the corner from all of the shopping and the Duomo. But the hotel was HORRIBLE! Homeless people stay in better places. We were on the third floor and off on the older wing of the building. It was 70 Euros in December with a shared bath. We shared the bath with about 10 rooms. The floor moved underfoot. I mean like 2 inches of play. And looking at that end of the building from the outside, we noticed that the rest of the building was boarded up and abandoned. I would not stay at the Hotel Nuovo in Milan unless you get a room on the newer side of the building.
Ken <email>
Seattle, WA USA Thu 12/23/2004
Great non-touristic cities in Italy
I'm an experienced back-packer and recently came back from a 2 month trip in Italy...I have to say Italy's the most beautiful country I've seen!I had some really great oppurtunities to explore those beautiful small towns where most majority easily skip when they plan to stay less than a month..here are the lists:Pavia:about an hour driving from Milan,I suggest you take a walk around the city center where you will see the Duomo,the university and flee market.There's a really famous Pizzeria right in the center,been told they make the best pizza in the while city.Ask any local if you're into gourmet food!2.Acqui Termi:about 2 hours driving from Milano.The middle-aged town is definetely worth a visit!3.Volterra: I would say it's the best city in Tuscany besides Siena and Florence!It's also a great for art-lovers for there're many hand-made crafts shops!Besides that,Volterra sits right on the hills so you will see the most stunning sunset from here!I believe it'll be a life-time memory.4.Pomaia:Religious or non-religious ,if you're looking for a different experience in Tuscany,you should definetely visit the Lama Tzong Khapa Institute!It's an institute for those who want to follow the buddism.I actually found it by accident but when I first stepped in there I felt like entering to another world...peaceful and spiritual..anyway check out this site to find out more http://www.waytuscany.net/rooten/turismo_religioso_565.htmthese are just my personal suggestions..anyway I'm glad to exchange more ideas if you know other great non touristic-cities or if you wanna ask me any questions regarding my trip, please drop me a line!I'll be glad to advise you!
Christina <email>
Taiwan Wed 12/22/2004
Fresh Produce Markets
Just to vouch for Rick's word, do (with all haste) go to the local markets for fresh fruit, cheeses, bread etc. as part of your Italian experience.It is not about the money you will save; those markets in Firenze and Venezia were unforgettable, fun things to explore, smell and taste Nothing in the world tastes like an Italian peach tasted fresh in Italy, and a simple chunk of cheese can utterly charm you with its Tuscan individuality.Go a few steps out of your way for these markets, and you'll enjoy healthy breakfasts (& picnics) while adding something 'local' to your sensory memories of these great places.
Jonas K <email>
Toronto, Canada Sun 12/19/2004
Villa Margherita , Levanto
I stayed at the Villa Margherita in Levanto last September. It was one of the finest Small Hotels I have ever stayed at. I am not easy to please. I was pleased by its charm, beauty, and great food. I am a real person and I don't know the owners!
Heather <email>
Cleveland, OH USA Fri 12/17/2004
Tuscany and Rome
The agriturisimo in Montalcino was awful. They were so busy with harvesting in October that they couldn't even show us to our room! The place was a mess. Lucca, inside the city, was the best! In Rome, Eternity Tours was fabulous! Worth every cent! They split the 7 hr tour over 2 days!
Lynne Jensen <email>
Stuart, FL USA Sun 12/12/2004
Direction mistake in Venice
My trip to Italy was made very easy with the Italy 2005 guidebook. I "flew by the seat of my pants" and planned as I went. I had no problems with hotels, maps, trains, etc. When i arrived in Venice, I did come across what appears to be a mistake in the book....I stayed at the Ca' Del Dosa B&B (which was great and affordable). The Directions say to go 'west of the Bridge of Sighs' but it was actually east. Since Venice can be very confusing for the first time, and the first thing to do is drop your bags off at the hotel, I thought it was important to mention.
So if you get off the vaporetto at San Zaccaria, the Bridge of Sighs is to your left (back to the water) and you'd go to the right over 3 bridges and Ca' del Dose is on the first street.
Sarah <email>
san francisco, ca USA Wed 12/08/2004
feature requests for Italy book
My wife and I went on our Honeymoon in Italy recently. Rick Steves book helped us out a lot. One great example was missing the ticket line at the coloseum in Rome by buying our tickets at the Paletine Hill Ticket Booth. One thing we would like for Rick to stress in his book is to fill your dates out on the EuroRail Pass. We got fined 50Euro on a train becuase we did not fill the date out on the pass.
The other thing I would like to see is more detailed maps in the book. Other than the things listed above the book was a life saver. Rick knows what he's talking about.
Greg Jones <email>
Orlando, Fl. USA Fri 12/03/2004
We do not need to place reviews of our Hotel......
At the personal attention of all the users and the sheriff of this message board.Regarding the letter posted by Mr. Roget on this message board
I would like simlpy to say that I never posted reviews of my Hotel , I tried to contact Mr. Roget but I did not received a reply , as you can see in the message board there are e-mail address of the last two clients that posted the reviews ......
I would like to thank all the Rick Steves readers ( hundreds) that every year choose Villa Margherita and sometime post good review.( sorry for my bad english)
Villa Margherita Levanto <email>
Levanto, Italy Thu 12/02/2004
Sorrento, Rome, and Civita
Just back from Italy (Nov 2004) where we stayed in two of Rick's recommended lodgings -- both full of Rick groupies and both fantastic deals.
In Sorrento, we can't say enough nice things about Casa Astarita B&B. Not a place to go for water views, but we were using Sorrento as a base for sightseeing in the Naples - Amalfi area, and for this it was perfect. We liked being right in the center of town so you could walk to everything. The place was spotless; room reasonably large with attractive brightly-colored tile. The staff was very friendly and helpful, although only one (Alfonso) spoke much English. Breakfasts were good, and a real plus was free highspeed Internet access in the room, as well as on the public PC. Also, there was free bottled water and fruit juice in the fridge, and cookies on the sideboard, as well as homemade limoncello. For all those amenities, I don't think you could beat the off-season price of 75 euro a night.
In Rome we also loved Hotel Aberdeen, again with a very friendly and helpful staff, and a free public Internet terminal. We were happy with the location, although not right in the heart of the tourist attractions like Piazza Navona. But you can walk to just about anyplace in Rome in less than half an hour, and if you wanted wheels, the hotel is very convenient to many bus lines and the Metro. Our room appeared to have been recently renovated, and was quite a bargain for the "special Rick Steves rate" of 88 euro.
(By the way, we agree with the person who said the Target pizzeria, which is not far from the Aberdeen, was a bad deal. We found both the service and the food among the worst we had in Rome. Don't go there.)
The other place we stayed is not in Rick's book, although I think it should be, because it's a great base for visiting his favorite back door hill town, Civita di Bagnoregio. It's a B&B called L'Ombricolo, between Civita and Orvieto (about 90 min north of Rome). It's a bit more expensive at 120 - 130 euro a night, but well worth it for the beautiful surroundings and amenities. The owner is British, and a fascinating person. Google the name (L'Ombricolo), and you'll find their web listings.
Mike and Roz
Boston, MA USA Wed 12/01/2004
Hotel Sonya, Rome
My wife and I are big fans of Rick Steves and always use his guidebooks when we can. We recently stayed at the Hotel Sonya in Rome(10/31-11/4) which is a recommended hotel. We thought that we had agreed on the price for the room. At checkout, we were requested to pay 15 Euro's more than the agreed price. I didn't bring a copy of the e mails we had exchanged so I paid under protest. We've communicated with 3 different employees of the hotel and still can't get this issue resolved. Bring all copies of e mail pertaining to reservations, especially when dealing with this hotel.Charles Steele
Charles Steele <email>
Los Altos, CA USA Tue 11/30/2004
Naples - Hotel Ginevra
I agree w/the previous writer who identified this place as a dump. Rick recommends only four hotels in Naples, and it's hard to believe that Rick would actually stay here. It doesn't appear that Rick has done much research on places to stay in Naples.
Chuck <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA Tue 11/23/2004
5 Terre - Monterosso 9/04
At the end of September we stayed in Monterosso for 3 nights and this site was so helpful in our planning I am finally getting around to posting our finds.
We found a hotel not listed in Rick's book, because all the places in his book were already full when we emailed for reservations a month ahead of time. It was a six room B&B at the end of town, a block from the beach - and would be a splurge for the area at about $225 euro. It is called 'Relais A Ca Du Gigante' (after the giant statue in Monterosso). It is owned and run by the same family that owns Miky, a tasty but expensive restaurant in Monterosso suggested in Rick's 2004 Italy book. The building the hotel is located in is brand new so the rooms are spotless and the furnishings are wonderful - it really reminded me of an upscale boutique hotel in the US. The breakfast is served on a small terrace and was better than most of what we found in Italy (but nothing hot). I would think this place would be worth adding to the next book. The only downside we found was that there wasn't a view of the water and the private terrace in the suite is over-hyped.http://www.locandailgigante.it/english/frameset.html
As far as eating we ate in Vernazza and Monterosso and did not have a bad meal. Our first lunch was at Al Carugio on a side street in Monterosso and was probably the best. Huge bowls of fish stew - Yum!
We had dinner at Ciak and Miky in Monterosso both really good for fish – definitely get the fish appetizer at Ciak – they brought us 8 different things and each one was better than the next.
Our only so-so dinner was at Bar del Capitano on the main square in Vernazza, but the atmosphere of the town made up for it.
We did the entire hike in one day - starting in Monterosso - the opposite direction than Rick lies out in the book. I really liked getting the hard part over with first – and it was the most beautiful part, too. We took the ferry back which was an awesome way to see the towns from a different perspective.
Late September seemed like a great time to be in the area – busy but not packed. The beach guys were starting to cart away all the chairs and umbrellas but we still managed an afternoon reading books on beach chairs. We had to wait anywhere we wanted to eat without a reservation but always got great service once we were seated. The trains were still a mystery when we left – never once even close to on time. All in all, it was a fabulous vacation from the touring we did in Rome and Florence. Thanks Rick!
Kristen <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Wed 11/17/2004
Carnavale in Viareggio
I was told about the Carnavale in Viareggio by an Italian woman. Travelers staying in the Cinque Terre would find it convenient to take a day trip of one hour each way from La Spezia. Or stay in Viareggio and day-trip to 5Terre. My calendar shows Ash Wednesday falling on Feb. 9 in 2005, so Carnavale would be just before that (not as spectacular as the one in Venice).
Swan
USA Wed 11/17/2004
March in Italy
In Italy end of March-weather great-in the 60-70 range. Stayed at Residenza Cellini in Rome-friendly ,great breakfast,lovely furnishings ans internet access for free-plus near the train station and in a good neighborhood. Ate twice at the Target around the corner from Cellini-wonderful pizza and good prices.
On to Sorrento-stayed at Il Nido-can't say enough about this family run hotel-they are so helpful,what a view and the best and cheapest meals we had in our 2 week trip ! Great buffet breakfast. Also they had free internet.
In Florence stayed at Hotel Casci-what a location-fantastic buffet breakfast,free internet very clean and friendly .Went to Il Latini to eat-like the fellow said earlier-no posted price-cost 40 Euros but the food was fantastic and the atmosphere warm.Also ate at the self-service Risturante Leonardo,good food and cheap prices but no atmosphere.Tratoria Ce Ce was also mouth watering but make sure you have reservations-the family is so welcoming-lots of food for not much price.
On to Venice-stayed at Hotel Marin near the train station-great location-nice owner,great buffet breakfast.A bit far from the center of action but worth it.
Did the trains to travel-booked with local travel agents and that worked well.
Kathy <email>
USA Tue 11/16/2004
Italy
Thoughts from conservative(since this is now a political&travel website), budget conscious, RS veterans
VENICE: CORTE CAMPANA B&B was great. The location was perfect and Riccardo was a hoot - in spite of, or maybe because of his skinflint ways -- notice all the missing light bulbs and don't forget to request towels!
FLORENCE: Bellevue House was the best deal of the trip. Antonio was the perfect gentleman and host.
VERNAZZA: Stayed at Tonino Basso's rooms at the top of the hill mainly for the internet access. The room was fine but it is NOT a high speed connection (more like 28K). IL PIRATA patissceria was the best! The brothers were entertaining and gracious hosts, the food was wonderful, and the prices were right on. It is definintely worth the walk up.
ROME: Pensione Italia was a winner. Great rooms and service. TARGET restaurant was TERRIBLE! The food and prices were decent but the service was DREADFUL enough to ruin everything. The waiters were rude, condescending, and we never did get any bread. I can't believe that Rick recommends this place.
Took several MILLENIA TOURS (www.threemillenia.com) and found them to be exceptional. Given by American guides with a passion for all things Roman, they were way above your typical worn out rehearsed monologue. Rick should check them out.
Deryl <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA Mon 11/15/2004
Milan Restauants
In Milan, Ristorante Pizzeria Calafuia Unione is closed. We found another very good one a few blocks away on Via Dogana (dogana means customs house). Ristorante Pizzeria Dogana was friendly, efficient and had many locals at Saturday lunch when we were there. Located at Via Dogana, 3 at Piazza del Duomo. Telephone 028 056 766.
Liz Phelps <email>
Pittsburg, CA USA Sun 11/14/2004
Hotel Ginevra in Naples--A Dump
I can't believe this dump made it into the 2005 edition of Italy. (I was there in September 2004.) The owners dun you for cash payment the moment you come in the hotel and don't let up until pay them in advance. They tried to jack the price of my room up and it was only when I produced my e-mail confirmation that they backed off. The bed was not particularly clean and the sheets were not changed after my first night there. They also refused to honor the discount Rick mentions in his book despite my producing the current guide. Oh, did I mention that the guy behind the desk most of the time I was there is surly? He's a short, balding, light-haired guy. Look elsewhere, please.
Steve <email>
Vista, CA USA Fri 11/12/2004
Genoa info
Would not think of traveling to Europe without Rick Steves (Books)Just did 3 weeks in Italy 2004 & returning 2005.Genoa is the European Cultural City for 2005; Yet no info on Genoa! Help! 3 night yet to explore...
Nicki <email>
Hampton Roads Area, VA USA Sun 11/07/2004
Warning - 24hr waterboat tickets
I just want to add that in Venice it is absolutely essential to punch the 24-hr waterboat tickets before boarding for the first time. We had bought the tickets at a tobbacco shop and totally forgot to validate it. We were fined 30 EUROS EACH! We could have used the money on a gondola ride!
Niza <email>
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia Wed 11/03/2004
Oct. in Italy
After finding this board before our 3 week trip to Italy, and benefiting from many of the tips, I just wanted to respond with some comments of my own. Rick and his book were truly an ever present part of the trip. What a difference it made to have such good and accurate info. Like others have said, the only inaccuracies were just normal price increases and one discontinued bus tour in Rome.
In spite of some previous postings, we stayed at Hotel Speronari in Milan, and were quite satisfied. It was clean, quiet, had good beds, and an awesome location. (We even got the complimentary cappaccino at check-in!). Next stop was Varenna and Albergo Oliveda. No problems with "serious" Laura, although we did chuckle about being confined to our room at night, as no one is to walk downstairs in the middle of the night. The view from our room and balcony was fabulous...what a wonderful place!! Good food, (although after 3 days we did have the verbal menu memorized) and such a great town.
On to Cinque Terre...oh one other thing, the travel agency mentioned by Rick in Varenna was very helpful with the one train reservation we needed....Ok, in Vernazza stayed in apt. of Rosa Vitalli. Lovely lady, lovely apt. Little noisy, but with your own 4th floor terrace, it was very enjoyable. We did the whole hike, starting at Riomaggiore. We didn't think it was "scary" at all. Just weren't expecting it to be so many stairs. Ended the hike with a swim in the Mediterranean at Monterosa...in Oct. no less! Awesome day!!! In Vernazza, you must have breakfast at Il Pirate. Not only the best pastries in Italy, but the most fun owners too.
Quick stops at Pisa and Lucca (biking around the ramparts is great fun), and on to Florence. Even in Oct. it was hot and crowded, but what a city. Hotel Centrale, was perfectly adequate. Very small bathroom, but clean, quiet, and comfortable beds. Excellent buffet breakfast.
In Siena, Albergo Bernini was all that Rick said, but our bed was so narrow and creaky that it was not the best night's sleep. However, being able to picnic on their beautiful terrace overlooking the city and being invited to listen to lovely accordian music in the family living room, more than made up for it.
Cortona was a picturesque quick stop, with a nice hike up to the church above the town. In Assisi, Hotel Ideale was great, but pay cash, as we put it on a credit card and it was immediately converted to dollars at a very poor exchange rate. Very convenient hotel if you are driving. Quick stops at Montefalco and Todi, both of which were fine, but not as interesting as we had hoped.
Tiny Civita is a worthwhile stop, and if you want to stay in Bagnoregio, Hotel Romantica Pucci is unbelievable. Pucci herself makes it a stop worth making. Speaking 5 languages she has painstakingly decorated and redone from scratch all of her rooms. With canopy beds and cakes and water in your room upon your arrival, a buffet breakfast that made me blush when I realized it was all for us, and only 65.euros, it was a fun night! We would stay at Il Nido in Sorrento again even though it is outside of the town itself. The view and the peace and quiet were worth it. We did have a car, and without one I think I would agree that it is a bit far out. Driving the Amalfi Coast Road was not nearly as hair-raising for my husband as trying to get through Fri. night Sorrento traffic...it took a full hour to just get through town.
During the whole trip there were absolutly no problems with pickpockets whatsoever. Everywhere actually felt very safe. Only the subways in Rome and Milan and the streets of Florence would have provided any opportunities for thefts. Anyway, thanks Rick, for a great trip. We can't wait to go back!!
BC <email>
Seattle, WA USA Wed 11/03/2004
Hotel owners posting their own reviews...
I noticed a few posted "rave reviews" for Villa Margherita, etc. that were supposedly from Americans,(names and cities listed, but not surprisingly... no e-mail address) but if you read them closely it is obvious that they were written by someone whose English is not that good, probably the hotel owners themselves? FYI....
David Roget <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Wed 11/03/2004
Lucca B&B
In Lucca I returned for a second visit to LeViolette B&B. www.Leviolette.it. It is close to the train station, clean and nicely decorated with two ANNAS as owners. Two Bathrooms are shared by the people in 6 rooms. Breakfast is delivered to your room. I paid 40EU/night.
Swan
USA Tue 11/02/2004
Hotel Mignon in Sorrento.
I recently stayed at Hotel MIGNON MUEBLE in Sorrento. I paid 70Eu for Sb. The hotel is convenient but not on the main street, clean and breakfast was included. I even had my own small patio.
Swan
USA Tue 11/02/2004
Anniversary Trip
We had a blast on our 25th Anniversary trip to Italy. Rick's books and seminars were a big part of our planning and sightseeing while we were there. There were a few fees that were a bit higher than listed, but we expected those as typical rate hikes. None were more than an Euro or two. Several tours that were supposed to have audio guides did not. I'm not sure if it's because we were there outside of "high season" (October) or if they were simply discontinued. This happened in Ostia Antica and Paestum, south of Amalfi.
AMALFI COAST - we stayed in Priano at Hotel Holiday for 110 Euro/night. We loved that location and the staff was extremely friendly. The location was superbly placed between Positano and other Amalfi Coast towns. You catch the bus right outside the hotel and go wherever you want. They also have parking if you arrived by car. If you go to the Amalfi Coast, Pasteum should be a MUST on everyone's itinerary. Those greek ruins were fascinating. I could have spent two days just combing through those ruins.
TUSCANY - we stayed in the small town Lucignano, about 30 minutes from Siena. It was our home base for a week while we toured Tuscan and Umbrian towns: Volterra, San Gimignano, Assisi, Perugia, Pisa, Orvieto, and Civita de Bagnoregio (don't miss Civita!). We stayed at Il Cassero, http://www.ilcassero-tuscany.com/. Luigi, the owner, was charming and wonderful. The rooms were romantic and the setting in the town was far beyond our expectations. The price was extremely reasonable. Tell Luigi that Kathleen sent you.
ROME - The Downtown Accomodation is wonderfully located near the central attractions (www.downtownaccomodation.com). It is was a bit noisy with the street below the rooms. My favorite thing there was visiting the Borghese Gallery with the Bernini sculptures. We took a day and hopped on the subway and then the train and hit the ruins of the Roman seaport of Ostia Antica. That was incredible and so huge. We also really enjoyed Palatine Hill too in the early morning before it was busy. Rick's book was great in helping us tour it and know what we were looking at. Thank you Rick for helping us make this a trip to remember for the rest of our lives.
Kat O <email>
Des Moines, WA USA Mon 11/01/2004
Meuble Agavi
Meuble Agavi in Monterosso will close this winter from early Dec. to reopen in Feb--according to the owner.
Swan
USA Sun 10/31/2004
Eating
Antonio's Hostaria dei Bastoni near the Vatican Museum should be removed from your next publication as the quality of the food is not reliable. Instead, try flli Micci Trattoria near the Market, Via A. Doria, 55 a/b (tel. 06-39733208), closed Monday. Located 3 blocks from Hotel Alimandi, which is great!
Terry Howard <email>
Seattle, WA USA Sun 10/31/2004
Villa Margherita in Levanto
If you are looking for the perfect place to get a taste of Italy, we recommend Villa Margherita in Levanto. The villa is perched on the mountainside, but minutes from the beach and train station. The accomodations are perfect with a wonderful garden to sit and drink wine at the end of the day. Fredico and his family are so helpful and breakfast and their caffe lattes are to die for. Even though we were one train stop away from Cinque Terre,it was hard to leave this calm village or the beautiful beach. We plan to return again next summer. It is our new favorite place on earth.
A Bishop <email>
Gainesville, FL USA Sat 10/30/2004
Italy & Cinque Terre
We just came back from two weeks in Italy and really loved Cinque Terre , Levanto and Portofino.We stayed at the Villa Margherita by the sea B&B in Levanto..simply amazing, great location, friendly staff, clean rooms.They have a great website at www.villamargherita.net
Paul Biasotti <email>
New York, NY USA Fri 10/29/2004
italy Update based on 9/04 trip
Italy update (9/04) on Rick’s hotels
Albergo Olivedo, Varenna, - a real keeperTheir “miserable breakfast” has become a really good breakfast, served in their plaza in front of hotel looking at Lake Como. We lived on it for most of the day as we were so busy. Dinner is excellent, one of the best we ate in Italy. Location unchanged, - and gracious. “Serious Laura” is just a very busy, one woman show, but one with a good heart. We had a room overlooking the lake with a balcony – gorgeous view!!
Hotel Gritti, Milan – keeper as described by Rick. After a long ,exhausting flight, it was a quiet sanctuary in noisy downtown Milan. Rick is on our Christmas card list for that recommendation.
Hotel Alexandra, Florence – managed by terse and tiresome Andrea.We left and stayed at an apartment owned by Hotel Patricia on recommendation of fellow traveler. Very nice rooms run by great family, at only E70. Some street noise with windows open. But with windows closed no problem and have air cond. Very nice people to deal with, very helpful, the owners’ uncle walked us to the apt so we would not get lost. The hotel is clean and neat but their apartments are extremely clean and u pto date and good area and his wife is very nice. Recommended. !!!!!!!!!! Should be in your book!!!!
And last, and least. Capri. Leaves a bad taste. Read Rick and believe .We were only in the Blue Grotto for 60-90 seconds but it was beautiful.
Hotel del Corso, Sorrento – nice rooms in updated hotel. Ours faced side street. Decent breakfast. Manager wants upfront payment for entire stay with no refunds, when checking in. Push back hard, and learn that you are in Southern Italy and closer to the bazaar mentality across the Med. A previous griffetti on the cleanliness of the bathroom was seconded by my wife, who cleaned it with those great Clorox sheets that come in a travel pak. Also the sheets hadn’t been changed, they helped my wife change the sheets when pointed out that night .....They rehung our dirty towels up after we had used them which were really dirty after a grimy train and plane day, when we discovered this fact and asked for clean towels and another soap, we were told only change linens every other day, if we had been told this when checking in would have only used one towel, we never received clean linens or soap after asking 2 people for them.Took our showers using the old Rick Steves micro towel and our shampoo. We checked out the next day and were told the night before when we notified them we were not happy that we owed for the full 4 days .
Hotel Sonja, Rome – A keeper. Nice clean rooms, as described. Nice people run it. Free Internet, and close to train station. .Helpful front desk/bell man /breakfast man who makes great cappuccino for breakfast.
Hotel Conte Verde., Santa Margarita had been there many years before- unchanged and nice.
Footnotes. Florence felt very safe. Police have CCTV, and are proactive in working with the locals. Gypsy hustlers are gone except for very passive beggars.Naples is getting better, according to one source. The action on the CircumVesvius RR resembled a school bus more than the Pickpocket’s Special.And last, and least. Capri. Leaves a bad taste. Read Rick and believe. The only place where you find that a city will allow a partial rebate after you are deliberately overcharged for the funicular ride up to the town of Capri. Of course, you have to go thru the same long ticket line again to get the rebate.
jerry <email>
san francuisco, CA USA Wed 10/27/2004
Vernazza Hermitage (L'Ermo sur Mare)
I fully agree with Bill's comments below on the Hermitage (L'Ermo sur Mare) in Vernazza. Rick Steve's Italy Book was great for us, but is wrong about L'Ermo sur Mare when it lists it as having private toilet and bath. Expect 5 rooms sharing 2 bathrooms, the noisiest, squeakiest bathroom door in all of Italy, and hot water that lasts 5 minutes. Suggest looking elsewhere to enjoy very interesting Vernazza.
Rick <email>
Cincinnati, OH USA Wed 10/27/2004
Sorrento, Rome
Rome-Fellinis, great location, AC comfortable beds, JeanPaul, proprieter seemed nice but only saw him briefly. The negative-Anna-the breakfast Nazi, rude, hostile, hard pillows, lousy breakfast
Sorrento-dont stay at Il Nido-though I agree with the numerous positive comments, the location is TERRIBLE, cant walk to anything and not worth the trouble, 25 Euro cab ride from station, miles from anything even with the free shuttle
CZM <email>
Seattle, WA USA Tue 10/26/2004
Vernazza
Hi!I'm writing this feedback about Vernazza,'cause it is probably the most amazing town in the world.The most enchanting part of the town is the main plaza,Piaza Marconi,with an astonishing view on the ocean and on Monterosso,the next town.The town is so little and pictoresque that car circulation is not allowed,and this give you a strong sense of peace and quiet. Locals seemed to be very helpful and kind with us,the only thing I hated was that people who have rooms to rent and have not reservations , so they wait for every train passing at the station and when you get off from the train they stop you asking if you need a room , even if you already got a reservation - the worst thing is that they were so persistent!Except from this little trouble we had at our arrival , we enjoyed the town very much!
We reserved two rooms at Francamaria's place,her son Giovanni spoke a fast English and was very kind in helping us carrying the huge quantity of bags we had.The rooms we reserved ( we were six )were clean and spacious, located in front of the churchtower in the main square. We enjoyed the lovely view on the ocean ( ask for rooms # 1 and # 7).We had also an extra day in Vernazza 'cause Francamaria let us store the bags in her storeroom,so we visited the other towns and we left the area in the evening towards Pisa.
We 'll definitely come back at Francamaria's the next time.An advice : Francamaria told us to dine at Il castello restaurant( she is friend with the owner Monica )- you have to climb some steps , but when you arrive you find a gorgeous place with killer view over the bay and probably the best seafood in all the area!Thank you Rick,your book is perfect! : )
Rachel
USA Tue 10/26/2004
venice sleeping and eating
I agree about the hotel Aloggi Alla Scala, not too nice at all. We didn't reserved it but when we went in to see the room, were disappointed so didn't book there. I thought it was dreary and small and not great for the money. The setup there was not very welcoming.We (2 couples in our 50's) ended up renting an apartment directly across from the hotel with venice Rentals whose info. we took along with us from your message board write ups. We called them in Venice, which took a while to find (041-276-9798) as they listed only a Massachusetts number.
After getting in touch with Denise of Venice Rentals, she met us and told us that the apartment was still available due to a last minute cancellation and that she would show it to us at 2:p.m. that day.We loved the aparment, it was huge and very bright with such nice views from every single window. It practically overlooked the Aloggi Hotel but even better, it looked over the Bovolo staircase, quite breathtaking! Included with this apartment was our own private terrace which was all set up for dining with table and chairs, 2 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, although only one had shower, and a good sized kitchen and large living room with television and telephone. We were thrilled to have found this apartment rental and on such short notice. We stayed just 3 nights and loved it there. We did pay more than the Aloggi Hotel but it was worth it. We were given a last minute discount of 200 Euros per night.
As for eating out in Venice........ We didn't eat too well in overall. Everything was so expensive for what it was and just not pleasing to the eye. I don't think Venetians care estically about their dishware, or presentation of their food. Most places were approx. 50 E. per head for an average meal ( I am comparing to Atlanta where we eat out constantly)We found a couple of places that I thought were decent but not worth mentioning really. We did enjoy one meal having had seafood at Da Remegio, the only place I would recommend.Most everything was very good but we paid 65 Euros per person, with 2 glasses of wine, which I feel is steep. I guess when going to Venice, you must be prepared for this!
josephine blaire <email>
atlanta, ga USA Tue 10/26/2004
Vernazza Hotel - Hermitage by the Sea - Beware!!
Wife and I, along with another couple, just returned from our 10 day Italy vacation, visiting Venice, Florence, Cinque Terre, and Rome. We used Rick Steve's guide extensively for all activities, and it was great except for our lodging experience in Cinque Terre.Here's our story.....When we booked our reservations for L'Eremo Sul Mare (Hermitage)in Vernazza, we thought we were booking a semi-private Villa. "Angela" made us aware that the residence was about 500 meters from the train station, straight up the hill and about 400 steps. We're all in reasonable health, and so no problem there. She also indicated the residence had three bedrooms, so that we might be sharing the "Villa" with one other couple. We were led to believe that we would share 1 bathroom between the 4 of us, and the third bedroom, had it's own private bathroom. We didn't really care for sharing (even with each other), but agreed we could handle it since it would only be two nights, plus Rick recomedended it and the web-site made the place sound really appealing.However, when we arrived, we noticed the place had a fair amount of clutter, almost like the place hadn't been cleaned in a few days. We also discovered that there was 1 bathroom to be shared amongst the 3 bedrooms... a surprise, but we concluded perhaps we had misunderstood when making our original reservations. The third (German) couple had already arrived, they were very nice, and besides, at that point there wasn't much we could do about it anyway.We then hiked back down to the town, did some site-seeing, had drinks and dinner, and then returned to our accomodations about 9:30PM.When we arrived, we were shocked to find 2 additional couples in the house! Turns out they had been there several days and were staying in 2 upstairs bedrooms that we didn't know existed. While they had a separate bathroom upstairs, at this point, we realized we would not have anywhere near the privacy we were expecting. Basically, we were staying in a high priced ($85 euros/night/room) hostel... not at all what we wanted or were led to believe.Nevertheless, we spent as little time as possible at the house during our two day stay in Vernazza. When we told the person in charge (Fabio), that we felt we had been misled, he did give us a 10% discount, but we certainly would not have booked it originally had we known what it really was. We suggested to Fabio he may want to update his website to accurately represent what he was offering... a small house with 5 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms accomodating 10 or more people.Bill
Bill <email>
Ky USA Mon 10/25/2004
Montepulciano Recommendations
We stayed at a wonderful B&B in Montepulciano, which should be added to Steve's guide. It was Albergo La Terrazza. It was roomy, they offered a good breakfast and the owners were very friendly. We traveled with our 2.5 year old son and they were very accommodating. The owner is Roberto Giardinelli at 0578-757440. We ate at Trattoria Di Voltaia just next door and had a very good meal.
Kathy <email>
Portland, OR USA Sun 10/24/2004
Lodging in Italy
We just returned from a 5 1/2 week trip to Europe, much of which was spent in Italy. I won't go into full detail here in one note, but will highlight the lodging at a few places and then post more later.In Venice we stayed at Al Campaniel (www.alcampaniel.com) for the second time and loved it again. It is easy to reach, a good price, and Marco is very helpful and speaks English flawlessly.We loved Cinque Terre. We stayed in Monterroso which had the better beach. The scenery was beautiful, but we got our rooms from a broker type person who had a sign at the train station (www.5terreaccomodation.com) and it was not a very nice room. It was roomy enough, and somewhat clean, but the bed was awful. He had said it had a sea view, but it didn't unless you stood just so, and peeked out through some trees.In Florence we stayed at Daniella Pezzati's B&B (www.soggiornopezzati.it). It is in a great location, close to the train and the duomo, easy walking everywhere. She's very helpful and the price was fantastic. The bathroom is quite small, with the shower integrated in around the toilet area, but it out worked fine. The beds were firm and the rooms decorated very nicely.In Rome we stayed at the very centrally located Downtown Accommodation (www.downtownaccomodation.com). This one can be noisy due to the busy street it is on, so if you're a light sleeper, bring earplugs. They are very helpful, and the place is very secure. I would go there again in a minute.Other places we visited which I'll post about at a later time: Verona, Sorrento, Priano (by Positano), and Tuscany.
Kat O. <email>
Des Moines, WA USA Sun 10/24/2004
Hotel Du Lac, Bellagio, Italy
Bellagio - The Hotel Du Lac was absolutely lovely, with a perfect location. Good recommendation! Please tell readers that the hotel offers a half pension for only E 30 per room for 2. This gives you a delicious 4 course dinner on the outdoor terrace with Bruno! (a Hotel fixture himself).This was a real bargain compared with other restaurants in the area, and helps offset the cost of the hotel room.We definitely recommend this hotel. Everyone there was very nice and the room was perfect.
paula stolicny <email>
orlando, fl USA Sun 10/24/2004
Puccini in Lucca
Lucca now has an ongoing Puccini festival. Tues, Thurs, and Fri eves at 7 pm. 15Eu. It lasts 90 min. and every concert is different. I heard excerpts from Madame Butterfly Fri. and enjoyed it. I know almost nothing about opera, so that's saying something.
Swan
USA Sun 10/24/2004
Don't stay at ALLOGGI ALLA SCALA in Venice
I planned a trip for me and my sisters to six cities in Italy. All of the hotels we booked through Rick Steves guides were wonderful, except our accomodations in Venice at Alloggi alla Scala. The older lady who runs the place may seem sweet and kind on the outside, but the reality is that she is a scammer. I booked three nights at Alloggi for 3 people in her BIG room with an extra bed and a private bathroom. She quoted me more than Rick's book and the web updates listed - 120 per night. When we arrived she informed me that the big room would not be available until the next evening because she supposedly had an issue with another guest. The room she put us three in was so small that we had to walk across each others beds and put our luggage under the bed close to the door. It was ridiculous! And our "private" bathroom was down the hall with a little handwritten sign that said it was for our room only. The water pressure in the shower was also non existant. I could've taken a better shower with a cold glass of water. Then she had the nerve to ask us if we wanted to keep the small room for the rest of the stay. Instead we found another hotel around the corner called Hotel Centauro. We had a room 3 times the size with a huge chandelier, a real private bathroom with a good bath/shower and real warm water, a fabulous view of a canal complete with gondoliars, and an absolutely fabulous buffet breakfast for the same price!When I left Alloggi the "old woman under the stairs" as we called her, insisted I pay the same price I would have paid for the bigger room with the private bath and even threatened to charge the rest of the nights to my credit card. I told her that as she was the one to break our agreement, and never provided any cancellation policy on the faxes (I had to spend $25 faxing her internationally as her fax machine was not working properly), that I would dispute anything she tried to charge and asked for a reciept from her and the new hotel for backup. The sad thing is that I believe I saw someone else's similar comments on this website right before I left on our trip. Too bad I didn't read it until it was too late. The rest of our stay in Venice was fabulous. Other hotels I recommend are: Hotel Villa Cipressi in Lago di Como, and Villa Nuova Riviera in Santa Margherita Ligure. Nardizzi Americana in Rome was a fine deal for budgeters.
Angie <email>
Orlando, FL USA Sat 10/23/2004
Florence
My two female travel companions and I stayed at Hotel Ungherese September 30 and October 1, 2004. We were on a two week tour of Italy using a rental car. We chose this hotel solely because Rick's "Italy 2004" book said it is "good for drivers" and "has easy, free street parking". It certainly isn't easy getting to the hotel from the Autostrada.
We stopped at an Autogrill before arriving in Florence and bought the best street map they stocked. Even with the map, we drove around for over an hour trying to locate the hotel. Finally, when we did pull up in front of the hotel for our "free and easy parking", they told us we couldn't park the car on the street due to Friday morning street cleaning. We had to park several blocks away and walk back to the hotel. As for the "great singles" which I had, the bathroom contained everything, shower, sink, toilet, and bidet all in the same tiny room. The shower head came out of the wall and, before showering, all the towels, toilet paper, and personal items had to be put outside the room. The floor of the bathroom was the same level as the bedroom so much of the water on the bathroom floor flowed out into the bedroom. Both nights we stayed here, my companion's double room shower flooded the tile floor and soaked the bedroom floor. I would never stay here again nor would I recommend it to anyone staying in Florence.
Dave Hill <email>
San Jose, CA USA Fri 10/22/2004
Northern Italy
Venice, Florence, RomeRick's book was amazingly accurate on our tour of the great cities of northern Italy, from the bewildering floor plan of the Accademia Hotel in Florence to the scam artists plaguing the railway station in Rome. Thanks especially to the book for the little tip about the second exit from the Sistine Chapel, which saves a long weary walk around the outside of the Vatican Museum.
Despite crowds, we enjoyed our trip very much. The only negative that we did not anticipate was the absolute plague of street vendors near any tourist attraction in these three cities. After a while it becomes downright annoying to step over the same cheesy fake handbags and dodge the same trinket vendors day after day.
On the up side, we stayed at La Calcina ( Rick recommendation) in Venice, which is on the Guidecca canal--it has very friendly staff, a nice outdoor restaurant, and sunset views on the water. It's a quiet haven in a very busy tourist city. And of course, we got to see the fabulous art and architecture, take evening walks sustained by treats from the ubiquitious gelateria, and gaze at the moon above the Pantheon while dining alfresco near our hotel in Rome. All in all, a great adventure.
Doug and Margaret <email>
Upper Arlington, OH USA Thu 10/21/2004
Venice
The best restaurant we ate at in Venice we discovered on our last night -- it was the restaurant attached to our hotel ( a good, inexpensive, well-located hotel --Al Gazzettino). The restaurant is also called Al Gazzettino, and is between Piazza San Marco and Rialto -- right in the Merceria area , on the canal that cuts across that area (yeah, you'll probably have to wander around to find it). The waiter took us in hand and presented us with a fabulous meal -- steamed razor clams, pumpkin-shrimp risotto, etc. Much more interesting food than a lot of restaurants offer.
Mary Hamilton <email>
Lexington, MA USA Thu 10/21/2004
florence
Two things: first, the restaurant Il Latini, which is in almost every guidebook, including Rick's. It was mobbed every night with Americans, many clutching Rick's guidebook. We made a reservation, were ushered into a room which was absolutely packed (with Americans) , and were served an excellent dinner, with a great deal of food, but no menu was offered, and it ended up being 40 euros a person. It was worth the money, but if one had come in expecting to have a cheap meal, it could have been difficult! I felt that somehow I had inadvertently become part of a large bus tour -- but that wasn't the case. We were seated at a table with another couple who were also somewhat baffled by the experience. As I said, the food was excellent, the atmosphere jolly, but it was a very different experience than what we expected from the guidbook.
Secondly, an excellent, inexpensive hotel in Florence is the Pensione Ferretti. Good location 10 minute walk from train station, quiet side street, excellent breakfast, free newspapers in all languages, extremely helpful staff.
mary Hamilton <email>
Lexington, MA USA Thu 10/21/2004
Firenze, Siena, Cinque Terre & Milan...
Just returned from a two week trip to Italy. We relied on both Rick's Italy guide as well as the Florence & Tuscany guide. We spent four nights in Florence, two in Siena, four in the Cinque Terre, and finally three nights in Milan.
Florence:We stayed at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti; nice rooms, great location. Dinner at Il Ritrovo - twice (it was so good we had to eat there twice).Note: Visited the Medici chapels. The entrance is separate from the San Lorenzo church; you have to walk around to the other side of the building. There is a separate admission charge to get into San Lorenzo church.
Siena:What a beautiful Medieval City. Stayed at the Palazzo Ravizza; very nice hotel away from the city center. Could have used a third day in Siena; it's a great hub for visiting the Tuscan hill towns.
Impressions of the Cinque Terre:We spent two nights in Riomaggiore and two nights in Vernazza. We loved Riomaggiore. There must be a half-dozen restaurants to choose from, and the waterfront is very quaint. Bar Centrale was a great place for a coffee or a late night aperitif. It was certainly a more substantial village than we were expecting. Same thing for Manarola. I was expecting a tiny village, but there were plenty of places to eat and stay. We had lunch at 'Il Porticciolo' in Manarola, and the food was both excellent and inexpensive. Of all the villages, Corniglia is by far the quietest and least touristy. If you want peace and quiet away from all the tourists, then that's the village for you. After Riomaggiore we moved on to Vernazza. Rick has done a great job promoting Vernazza. However, I guess the result is that it's loaded with Americans. (Although the German tourists were probably a close second.) We rented a room (#3) from Francamaria for two nights in Vernazza. Great room just steps from the square. The staff were very helpful especially in alerting us to the fact that there was a train strike the next day. Dinner at 'Il Capitano' the first night was excellent.
Monterrosso was by far the biggest disappointment of the five villages. We spent a few hours there, and that was enough. The hike between Monterosso & Vernazza is the most demanding but also the most rewarding. They views were spectacular.
One note on Vernazza. We decided to grab a drink and watch the sunset at "La Torre" ("Franco's bar"). Unfortunately there was a misunderstanding as Franco was not happy when we decided not to stay for dinner. Apparently it's a restaurant only, and just having a drink is not an option. From Rick's guidebook we were under the impression that this was a great place for an early evening drink. There were several couples who were also planning on having a drink but not dinner. It was only 6:30 and too early for dinner for us. Most restaurants don't open until at least 7:00, so we thought simply having a drink wouldn't be a problem. While Franco was upset, he was gracious enough to allow us and the other couples to stay to finish our drinks. Rick, please give our apologies to Franco the next time you see him!
Speaking of train strikes, we had the unfortunate experience of having to travel on the day of a rail strike. We were given a heads up and advised to take the early train around 8:30 a.m. to Genoa. From Genoa we were heading to Milan. Unfortunately, after 9:00 a.m. the train stopped in Sestri Levante, and everyone had to get off (the strike was from 9-5). There would be no more train service until after 5:00 p.m. We were fortunate enough to get a ride into Genoa with a few other stranded travelers, and we spent the day there until trains started running again. Not much to see in Genoa. Rick's Italy guidebook skips it altogether. The Aquarium was very nice. It took all day, but we finally arrived in Milan.
Milan:Spent three nights at Hotel Speronari. It's a budget hotel, but you can't beat the central location. There were many other Americans staying at the hotel. We were able to share a ride to the airport with another couple. Glad we had a few days, because we were able to get to see the Last Supper on our last day. We ate very well in Milan. Thanks for the great restaurant recommendations Rick.
General observations:Americans seemed to be everywhere. They were the ones carrying lots of luggage and insisting on speaking only English. No really bad "ugly American" incidents to report, just the usual like refusing to even make an attempt to at least exchange greetings in Italian and complaining about the coffee.The Germans were easily recognizable too; they were the ones carrying the hiking sticks/ski poles everywhere they went.The trains between the Cinque Terre villages did not seem to run as frequently as we had hoped. Waited over an hour one day to take a five minute train ride.
Michael McAuley <email>
Boston, MA USA Wed 10/20/2004
Southern Italy & Manners!
My husband, who is Italian, and I live in Venice. After our wedding this summer we didn't have time for a honey moon with all of my famly visting from the USA. But this past weekend we decided to explore Naples and Amalfi as a belated de-stress weekend.
First of all I would recommend visiting Naples especially around Christmas when you can see all the incredible nativity scenes that are built in the city. They go all out, even making figures that look like famous people. The food is incredible and the people, although rough looking on the first impression, are the warmest I have met in Italy, even more than Rome. Yes, you need to be more attentive in Naples but its a wonderful experience. Oh, and park your car in a garage or you'll come back in the morning with maybe a frame of what WAS you car.
My point... My mother left me the new 2004 Rick book after her travels in Italy after our wedding this summer. (I got my family hooked after finding Rick on PBS years ago...which actually led to me meeting my husband on the Venice to Rome train! Thanks Rick!) We found our hotel with that. We stayed at Hotel Ginevra near the train station.
First of all, DON'T wander too much at night. Our friends from Naples tell us that it is a very shady part of the city. Secondly, the hotel was disgusting. I've seen my fair share of Italian hotels and while sometimes they aren't as cozy as hotels in the US, this was beyond acceptable. The room floor was full of hair and dirt like it hadn't been cleaned in awhile, the bathroom shower was moldy and when you used it, the drain wouldn't work and you were in a mini lake with stuff coming up from the pipes. The pillows were dirty, stained gray, as well as the top cover-let.(AND I wish I wouldn't have...but I looked at the mattress..*sob, sob*) I don't think they wash the sheets. The bed was comfortable but I couldn't sleep well after finding pubic hairs woven in the blanket. I'm not talking about 1 hair either... WHO slept in my bed?! To top it off, the guy at the front desk tried to make us pay more than what was said on the phone. On the phone he told us 70 Euro, which is actually more than with Rick's discount, then he tried to tell us 85 when we got there. I was happy to have my husband argue with him in "colorful" Italian, especially after we saw the room. We told them it wasn't what we were expecting but they told us that they had our credit card number and we were indeed paying... I wouldn't recommend this hotel to anyone. Maybe we just had a very bad experience but...
Going south, Pompei & Sorrento are amazing but Positano is so relaxing! I love this town. People are friendly and for those that don't at least try to speak Italian, this town really caters to them. There are cute cats and dogs everywhere and the air is nice and fresh unlike Naples of course. There are shops and good restaurants and even a little grocery if you're lucky to have a kitchen with your room. Its a great little town with a beautiful view of the open sea.
Its FULL of Americans. Some of which made me wish I wasn't. I can't stress enough, especially since I've lived here for almost two years, you have to try to BLEND. Please don't wander drunk with your friends through the streets at 2am. People LIVE here. This holds true for the whole country. Its not an amusement park. And I'm not talking about 18 year olds, I'm talking 40's 50's with maybe too much money to spend... Try to say a few words, don't blabber on to some little 90 year-old man on the street asking "where-the-hell-is-the-bus" in your rude-est, fastest English. At least learn a few phrases, for example, "Do you speak English?" would be a great starter. Restaurants here cater to Americans especially. Altering the menu too, pouring on the Parmesean cheese over everything and offering every condiment imaginable. "Where are we?" I asked my husband. "Boh."
Tip: Italians use olive oil, lemon and a little salt on most everything. Try it and you'll taste the food...not just ketchup.
I know that I'm probably writing to a crowd that knows their manners and if you read Ricks books, I'm sure he stresses enough that you should try to experience Italy, and Europe in general, like a local. Its good advice. You'll have McDonalds and Coke when you get home. But just in case, I thought I'd vent anyway from a resident's point of view.
Visit Amalfi and the south, its SO great. When will Rick do Sicily?! Its even better!!!!Happy travels!Ciao!Brandy & Fabio
Brandy Cardarelli <email>
Venezia, Italia Wed 10/20/2004
Italy - Cinque Terre
This was my second time in Cinque Terre, a few notes. The Basso family has a little scam going to take advantage of last minute, and late arriving traveller. Only got us for 10Euros more, next time I'll book ahead. Also, Bar Centrale in Riomaggiore (spelling) DOES NOT serve food as the bartender rudely informed us. And the hike between Monterosso and Vernazza is not for the weak! The place is beautiful but has turned in to "little America" since my last visit.
AG123
MI USA Mon 10/18/2004
> Bed and breakfast in Rome
We stayed four nights at B&B Smart in Rome this September , it is a short walk from the Termini train station , very central to sites , shops and restaurants . The price was very good which includes breakfast .The rooms were spacious, clean and comfortable and owners are very friendly . There is big supermarket just on the corner . We had a wonderful stay and would recommend this nice B&B . www.bandbromeitaly.com
Cristina Hoben
New York, USA Tue 10/12/2004
Lovely Francamaria Rooms
Hello. We stayed at Francamaria Rooms, Vernazza , this August.I just wanna refer you about this special place and about the kindness of the staff.We stayed in a room near the main place , with his private bath / shower ensuite.The room was incredibly clean and comfortable,the bath absolutely amazing and well refined.The room was located at two steps from the main place:Francamaria made us pay at the check out moment,and provided extra bath and beach towels under request!I suggest you to reserve a room in advance with her, she said me that they're always busy.Thank you Rick for listin such a beautiful places and accomodations on your lovely book!We loved staying at Francamaria , and thank to you our honeymoon was fantastic.
Bill and Shirley Musolino
San Diego, CA USA Tue 10/12/2004
Naples, Hotel Ginerva
The hotel no longer keeps your passport as stated in Rick's 2004 Italy guidebook. However, they demand -- yes, demand -- immediate payment in cash when you check in. Also, I had a confirmed reservation. Despite this, they did not have a room at the quoted price available the first night and tried to charge me an extra seven euros. The room was clean and quiet, but all in all I would avoid this place. The staff is not friendly and is clearly interested in only one thing -- separating you from your money as soon as possible.
Steve <email>
Vista, CA United States Mon 10/11/2004
Rome, Firenze, Assisi
Thank you, Rick Steves and staff, for the wonderful information in your Italy 2004 guidebook. We are confirmed believers. In Rome we stayed at the very clean and comfortable Hotel Spring House, near the Vatican Museum. The staff was very friendly and the breakfast was even better than most American business hotels. Close by is the Cipro metro stop, which was our link to the city. The metro was such a great way to get around; we purchased a weekly pass and used it several times a day. We also really enjoyed the nearby Andrea Doria street market, where we bought our picnic supplies. Nothing in Rome disappointed us--we could live there without hesitation.
Firenze was something of a mixed bag, only because it was so crowded. The museums were fabulous--we absolutely loved the Fra Angelicos at San Marco. And the Mercato Centrale is a must-see for foodies. But our hotel was not a winner. We stayed at Hotel/Pensione Centrale. It was dirty (spotted and stained bed linens, dusty, etc.) and smelled like they cleaned with straight vinegar. The staff was really nice, however. But for the money we decided that next time we would stay in Fiesole and take the bus into town, which takes only 15-20 minutes or so and is a good way to see the more realistic parts of the city.
We had much better luck hotel-wise in Assisi, where we stayed at the other hotel managed by Hotel dei Priori, called Hotel Alexander. It was clean and comfortable, and close to many great restaurants and shops. Assisi was an absolute treat!
Some overall tips:
1. Yes, use a money belt. Don't risk it. We met a guy in the airport who had his wallet stolen the last day of his trip, from a pocket on the leg of his cargo pants (zipped and velcroed). Gone in 1 second.
2. Earplugs. Bring two pair just in case you lose one.
3. A little Italian comprehension and conversation goes a long way. Enjoy meeting people half-way between their English and your Italian.
4. Dont attempt to climb the Dome of St. Peter's in Rome unless you are in very good shape and not very wide. The steps get more narrow as you go up. We are young and athletic, and it we had to stop and rest a few times, but the view from the top was so very worth it.
5. Never pay extra to eat pizza sitting down. The first night we got ripped off by paying 31 euros for two servings of pizza and two cokes; the rest of the trip we took it to go and paid no more than 2.50 for the pizza and 2.50 for each drink. If you are going to pay to sit, make it worth it and order a real dinner.
6. Consider staying at the airport Hilton in Rome, especially if you can use your Hilton Honors points for a free room. It is connected to the airport by a covered walkway, saving taxi fare to the airport. We took the train to the airport and then walked to the hotel at 10pm the night before our return flight to the states, and the next morning we ate a leisurely breakfast and then walked back to the airport. No stress.
Amy and Jason
Tucson, AZ USA Mon 10/11/2004
Reservations
Traveled to Italy first week of June. As per Rick's suggestion, spent two days in Vernazza. It was fabulous. I would recommend reservations in advance. The first comment we heard from other travelers was "I hope you have a room, everything is booked". We did and loved everything about the Cinque Terre!
Linda R <email>
Holly, MI USA Mon 10/11/2004
Italy Feedback
Just got back from Italy yesterday and used the Italy 2004 guide. Here's some feedback on items as recommended in the guide:Accommodations:
Locanda Correr (Venice): Had a wonderful stay. Accomodations were nice and is close to San Marco Piazza. Prices the same as listed in guide and includes breakfast. One thing, do not sleep with the windows open at night or you will get eaten alive by mosquitos (trust me on this as I still have the bites two weeks later).
Albergo Firenze (Florence): So-so hotel in a great part of town. Very central to shopping, eating and sites/museums. Prices were the same as quoted in guide and includes breakfast.
Albergo Cannon D'Oro (Siena): Another so-so hotel. We had a room on the first floor next to the hotel restaurant and overlooking the street. If you stay here, request a room that is not near the restaurant or overlooking the street as it's very noisy (especially if you're going to sleep in like we tried to). The bathroom in our room needed some maintenance, and I almost killed myself getting into the weird bathtub/shower thingy they have. The price was good though and as listed in the book, but did not include breakfast, and the location was central.
Casa Astarita B&B (Sorrento): Wonderful accomodations and very central. You had access to free bottled water and pineapple juice from the refridgerator 24/7 and Lemoncella liquor shots too (yummy!). Price was as quoted in the guide and includes breakfast.
Hotel Nardizzi Americana (Rome): Also nice accomodations and very central to sites and restaurants. We had a nice quiet room with a small balcony that overlooked the courtyard area. The prices were as quoted in the guide and includes breakfast.
American Express Office: We used the one in Venice and Florence. One thing to be aware of is which train stations they book you through. We were not aware that Florence has three train stations, and they booked us through Campo di Marte and not Santa Maria Nuovella (which is the main train station). When we got off the train, we were trying to follow the directions in the Italy guide to find a taxi and were totally lost. We finally had to stop and ask someone where we were and only then found out we were not at the main train station. Other than that, it was well worth using them instead of the train station ticket counter.
Museums in Italy: Some of the prices were the same as in the guide, but others had gone up by a few Euro. Be prepared for this. I'm sure that Rick already knows about this and will make adjustments in the 2005 guide.
Kelly Willis <email>
San Marcos, CA USA Mon 10/11/2004
Euros to Dollars-Hotel Eremo Gaudio
We also had our hotel charges changed from Euros to USDollars, by Hotel Eremo Gaudio, too, in Varenna. And, they were the HIGHEST exchange rates we encountered, in a 28 day trip to Italy. Rick, are you listening?
Linda <email>
spring, tx USA Mon 10/11/2004
Milan hotel recommendation
Based on strong negative comments from several of Rick's fans regarding his home-away-from-home in Milan at the Hotel Speronari, I decided to look elsewhere in the city, and found the Euro Hotel on Via Sirtori. Centrally located, a 2 minute walk from the Porta Venezia subway station, 10 minutes by taxi from Linate Airport, and a 5-minute taxi or 15 minute walk from the Central train station, we found this hotel to be clean, friendly and helpful. They did the advanced booking for the Last Supper reservations that we needed. Several excellent restaurants are close-by, and the continental breakfast included great coffee and cream brioches.
Joe D'Amico <email>
Washington, DC USA Mon 10/11/2004
Eremo Guadio - Varenna
Just a couple feedback items-
The hotel staff was minimally helpful and generally indifferent to us.Be aware that our credit card charges were made only in US dollars based on their own predetermined exchange rate.Other than that the hotel rooms were nice.
Douglas <email>
Zurich, Switzerland, USA Mon 10/11/2004
Italian airport hoax
be careful of the latest scam...If you are redirected to a general ticket counter from the airline you are attempting to check in with, they may make you wait and wait and wait in various lines in order to cause you to be late for your flight, and then they sock you with improper charges just a few minutes before flight time...ours at Peretola Airport in Florence was "excess baggage" (we had the same 2 lightweight bags we left with!). My friends arriving home from Italy yesterday were charged a $39 Euro per ticket "ticket changing fee", plus a $20 Euro "commission", at the airport in Naples. This was supposed to be free, according to Delta. I personally arrived 3 hours before my flight and was still made to feel I was going to miss not only that flight but my connection too!
We (by this time) frantic Americans will pay whatever is asked just to get on with our trips, and in order to make our flights back home. Delta was appalled when we reported this hoax to them, and they want to stop it. If you face the same thing, PLEASE DO REPORT IT TO YOUR AIRLINE AND SAVE THE RECEIPTS FOR THESE RIDICULOUS HYPED UP CHARGES. THIS MUST BE STOPPED!!!
Ellie Mae <email>
Miami, FL USA Sat 10/09/2004
Errors in Italy 2004, and London 2004
We just returned from a 28 day trip to Italy. We flew from the USA, to London for one night. while in london, we searched for a cafeteria/buffet restaurant, in Rick's London 2004 book. After searching for 30 minutes, we asked a local about it. they said the restaurant was very good, but had closed over a year ago.
Then, we went to Italy. We took Rick's 2004 Italy book. Although there were many helpful hints (as usual), we found numerous errors in pricing--and the errors were always higher than quoted in the book.also, some things were no longer there--such as the 8 hr pass that was quoted as available, in Venice, on their ferry. Now they only offer a 24 hr pass, and that pass was higher than the book quoted.Or the travel agency, that sells train tickets, in Varenna. Not only were the 2 women rude, they sold us 1st class point-to-point tickets on a train--and of the 3 trains that came by, as we waited, there never was a first class car. They also would only accept cash--no credit cards.
I know prices will change. After numerous errors, we decided to not be "surprised" if something wasn't there, or was higher priced. I think someone needs to pay a bit more attention to the details of the books.......
Linda <email>
spring, texas USA Wed 10/06/2004
Italy - Sept/Oct 2004
My daughter and I hostelled through Northern Italy the last two weeks of September and found the Rick Steves books valuable for hostel reviews, although we found some of the restaurant recommended were crowded and expensive - the price of success I guess.
The hostel in Lake Como is small and friendly, Venice is noisy, but centrally located, Florence has a killer driveway (up hill)- but well run, lots of interesting travellers there, the Beehive in Roma was great - well-run and close to the train station. We stayed in an apartment in Rioggamore in Cinque Terre .. Edi was a character and the price was right .. on the "main street" instead of near the water. The hostel in Milan is a converted school, institutional and noisy .. no curfew, but we had no choice, it was "Fashion Week" and no reasonalbly priced accomodation to be had.
If you're going to shop at McArthur Glen, take a direct train from Milan or Genoa.. it took us 3 1/2 hrs transferring twice .. getting there on Sunday seems to be more difficult than during the week. Mostly over-priced, but if you know your prices there are deals to be had.
You can't trust train information from the internet, especially from smaller centres .. you can trust the display in the local station.Most of the announcements are in Italian .. We experienced a train strike in Siena and Rick's tip that there are some trains that run despite the strike alerted us to get on that one .. giving us one more day in Cinque Terre instead of the Siena train station.
We used the Rick Steves walking guides and found we had more than enough information - for Verona, Venice, Florence and Rome.
I'd skip Siena next time, but we loved Verona, Assisi and the Lake regions.
Take bug spray .. there are mosquitos in some of the rural areas.
Bonnie S <email>
Vancouver, BC CDA Wed 10/06/2004
Italy
If you are thinking about Sorrento or the Amalfi region, check out the Hotel Il Nido above Sorrento. We just returned from a week there - perfect. Reliable and regular minibus, free internet, best food we had in Sorrento. Great location and atmosphere
Dave Lace <email>
Frisco, CO USA Tue 10/05/2004
Sena bus from Siena to Rome
I just returned from Italy a couple of weeks ago. While the guide book was helpful in most every way, the information about the Sena bus in Siena seems to have changed. The book says that the bus office at Piazza Gramsci is closed on Sun. and that you may buy your tickets from the bus driver. When the bus arrived the driver wouldn't sell us tickets and sent us to the office, which was open. (It's underground, so we didn't realize it was open until it was too late.) Needless to say we missed the bus and ended up taking a very long train trip to Rome.
Robin <email>
Dallas, TX USA Mon 10/04/2004
Northern Italy
Northern Italy in Three Weeks“Rick Steve’s, you’ve done it again!” Our third European Holiday independently planned with the help of accurate up-to-date information from Rick Steve’s guidebooks, videos, graffiti wall, train passes, and baggage for a fabulous adventure. My husband and I traveled flawlessly by train (purchased 5 day 1st Class Trenitalia Pass from Rick Steve’s and a few point to points). Our holiday took place the last three weeks of August 2004 with wonderful weather (rain total = only two hours, one afternoon during siesta in Venezia).
Spending three nights in each of the six enchanting places in northern Italy, was just enough time to absorb the essence of the locality and allow for hassled free travel. The amazing cities and comfy places we stayed and highly recommend are as follows:
1. Albergo Hotel Eremo Gaudio (www.eremogaudio.it) Varenna, Lake Como
2. Hotel Tianes (www.tianes.it) Kastelruth, The Dolomites (Italian Alps)
3. Hotel Alla Salute “Da Cici” (www.hotelsalute.com) Venice (Venezia)
4. Hotel Globus (www.hotelglobus.com) Florence (Firenza)
5. Tonino Basso (www.toninobasso.com) Vernazza, Cinque Terre (Italian Riviera)
6. Hotel Saini Meuble (www.hotelsaini.it) Stresa, Lake Maggiore
Each place is near local attractions, yet in quiet safe environments. We had boundless opportunities surrounding us for remarkable cultural experiences by natures natural beauty or historical artistic charm. The staff and amenities of each establishment ensured our every comfort. Enjoyable breakfasts were served with distinctively flavorful regional specialties. The delectable Italian cuisine of wines, cheeses, breads, local produces, and desserts (Gelato!) are all prepared and presented with great pride and taste indulgences.
Standing or walking beside immensely old architecture and artistic masterpieces was truly magnificent. Travel offers many opportunities for countless experiences to delight and revive all of the senses, sight, smell, sounds, and touch. They all inspire the spirit within us. You gain a new perspective of life itself throughout time making the world timeless. Visit each website listed above and view their photos, then imagine 100% more beauty because it is multiplied by all the senses.
A “WOW” moment from each place is as follows:
1. Awe-inspiring view of charming Varenna & the encircling Alps of Lake Como from our enclosed in nature beautiful room’s balcony!
2. Walking grassy alpine meadows with Tyrolean flavor and the Hotel Taines tour of the dramatic peaks of the majestic Dolomites!
3 Immersed in the decaying (but very clean) charm of a timeless city and the romantic canals unlike any other – Venice, incredible!
4. The time warp crossed – just being in the environment where the wonder of labor, life, and love created the birth of Renaissance Art - Florence!
5. Hiking the breathtaking cliffs along the turquoise seas of Cinque Terre and the fun loving, enjoyable character of the twin brothers of Il Pirate II in Vernazza.!
6. Absorbed in impressive manicured gardens, three fascinating bella islands, and the grand old lakeside palace hotels painting a historical look at European aristocratic holidays of long ago!
We have found traveling with the wisdom shared by Rick Steves, you will be assured to have the time of your life, plan ahead, keep open mind, and live for each new adventure.
Beverly Larsen <email>
Naples, FL USA Thu 09/30/2004
Rome hotels
"Italy 2004" listed the two hotels my husband and I stayed in while in Rome earlier this month. I'm pleased to report that Hotel Sonya, which Rick found "impersonal," seems to have improved its touch: We were greeted in our room with a bottle of chilled sparkling wine to help us celebrate our anniversary (which I had mentioned to them in an email months ago). What a delightful surprise!
As for Hotel Aberdeen, we loved this place even more because of its quaint and all-marble rooms. Both hotels were a good value.
Deb Elkink <email>
Medicine Hat, AB Canada Thu 09/30/2004
Hiking and sleeping in Cinque Terre
While Cinque Terre was beautiful, we found the "four-hour" walk between the towns on the "easy" red-and-white trail to be much more advanced than the guide indicated, especially since we chose to walk it from the difficult to easy end on the hottest day in September! Several hikers we met on the way were also surprised at the level of difficulty compared to their expectations of the hike from reading Rick's 2004 guidebook. Be warned: Wear sturdy shoes and take lots of water.
A note on hotels: Vernazza was crowded and we found it too noisy for sleeping, so relocated to Monterosso al Mare. However, all of Rick's recommended lodgings were full, so we asked one of these hotel owners for a recommendation and ended up at the lovely (and Italian-speaking) Villa Accini. Check it out!
Deb Elkink <email>
Medicine Hat, AB Canada Thu 09/30/2004
Cinque Terre
I've just returned from my second trip to the Cinque Terre and I know I've found paradise. I was there last July and stayed in Vernazza at an apartment of Patrizia's again. Last year I had a very hard time finding a room and was referred to Patrizia by the people who run Affita Camere de Baranin. So this year when I purchased my 2004 Rick Steves Italy book I was thrilled beyond belief to see that Patrizia was included in Rick's book.
Patrizia has four different apartments some are small studios and others can accomodate three people. The little studio we've stayed at is just a short walk from the station up the typical steep steps of Vernazza. It is small but there's a view right over the street facing the Blue Marlin and in the morning you can smell the fresh pasteries baking - just thinking about it makes my mouth water. With the windows open you can hear the trains coming and going but you get used to it.
Patrizia is a gem, when we arrived in Vernazza I called her and she was there in a few minutes helping us with luggage up to the apartment ( Sorry Rick I still won't learn to pack the way you teach us ). When we went to Patrizia's home to pay for our stay we were invited in to meet her new baby ( she was pregnant last summer so it was nice to meet the family ). We told her we would definately be back next year to enjoy a bit of heaven she calls home. She told us next time call her and tell her what time we'd be there and then just go to the apartment the door would be unlocked for us.
My only small complaint was all of the Cinque Terre was over run with tourists. I would have figured that by the end of September it would have been quieter. Eveyrone was nice and yes the Americans were enjoying themselves all carrying their RS guidebook - I stopped counting after 15 of them. I guess it's a spoiled American idea that I want to enjoy Vernazza without the crowds of people who are also enjoying it with me. I guess I just have to get out to the beach or rocks earlier then I have a better choice to soak up the sun and enjoy paradise.
Vickie LeVan <email>
Jacksonville, FL USA Wed 09/29/2004
Souther Italy and Matera
We used the Rick Steves travel book for our trip in Rome and to the Amalfi coast with great sucess, however, part of our trip was to the deep south (the region of Bascillicata). We had to special order a book on southern Italy because Ricks book didnt go much further than the Amalfi coast. Rick, the southern part of Italy is beautiful and like the rest of Italy, full of history.
One place that I would definately like to mention is the ancient city of Matera. This was one of the big highlights of the trip. Rick I'm sure you know about Matera and if you dont, check it out, I think your readers would love to know about this place. Matera is supposedly the oldest inhabited town in the world, parts of Matera date back to 2000 B.C. Matera has the Sassi homes, which are the cave homes. These are slowly being reinhabited and refurbished. This is a pretty remote part of Italy, we rented a car and drove there, it was an easy drive. Not a lot of english is spoken in this area, its a bit off the tourist path. When we were there, we didnt see one tourist that spoke english. Matera is approximately a four to five hour drive from the Naples area. I noticed a few B&Bs within the old part of Matera.
While we were staying on the Amalfi coast we stayed at Il Nido B & B, not mentioned in your book, but I found it through this message board. It was the best! A family run B & B, they couldn't have been more helpful. We ended up coming to Sorrento five days earlier than planned, we called the day before and asked if they had a room. They said they only had a room with no view and that if we wanted we could come look at it and if we didnt like it they would help us find another place to stay. We loved the room and the place, Im so glad we stayed. The first night the matress on the bed was really hard, I mentioned this to one of the brothers and when we returned to our room that evening, we had a new softer mattress - great service. The food was the best of all in Italy. One of the brothers does the cooking. The dining room has a view of the Amalfi coast line and Naples. I would never consider going to any other place to stay while on the Amalfi coast. Rick you've got to include El Nido in your next book.
Heather Villavicencio <email>
San Rafael, CA USA Wed 09/29/2004
cold B/B owners
My experience with using Rick's book is that when the Hotel/B&Bs/Hostels gets listed in his book, they get so much business that they lose the edge to compete. for example, the hostel in Capri used to pick up people at the port, now not anymore and the price jumped from 21 euro to 28 euro for a shared room, that is high for me. I stayed at anther one one that was recommeded and the manager was very cold, it was one of the most cold reception I have ever received even though I was in such a beautiful place in Cinque Terre.
I ate a two of the restaurants Rick recommeded in Monterosso, again it was so packed and crowded, I could not get waiter's attention,one of the waitress was so rude that some of the A group of Italian guest walked away. It was filled with Americans and Rick steve goers. The train runs on top the restaurant, couldn't get any peace, could't have a nice dinner. (Rest. Belvedere) my first evening was not so enjoyble.
The other one where he recommended the fish ravioli L'Alta Marea,the portion was small, and not so tasty, it was so so, I still had the best crab ravioli in California. I am in Italy, I expect they would have higher quality than in USA. The coperto for bread is a joke, the bread is like paper, dry tastless.
Also, many of the places are closed off season because they do so well in the high season, so it makes planning a bit hard with the book.
I do appreciate his advices on getting out of Malpensa airport to riding railway in Milan Central and theft alert. The private train line in Naples to Pompeii is helpful and how to get around Amalfi area.I wish that the busines you listed would stay on a competitive edge on service and price even though they are in you book.
Still, Cinque Terre remain in my memories even with all the luke warm hostpitality, I still enjoyed the place. It is so beautiful I plan to go back, but not the same establishments as the first time. Perhaps I will have better luck next time.
ymz <email>
sc, CA USA Wed 09/29/2004
Siena and Vernazza
My husband and I just returned from 2 weeks in Italy with Rick Steves' books as guides. The Albergo Bernini Hotel in Siena was really comfortable and the hosts were very accommodating. Perfect location!
In Vernazza we stayed at Giuliano's quaint little place in the side of the hills surrounded by vineyards. It was very clean and the view was awesome. Giuliano himself couldn't have been more charming!
The Il Pirata pastry shop up the street had the best pastries, fresh each day with unbeatable cappuccinos! Great experience!
Becky Swanson <email>
Nampa, ID USA Tue 09/28/2004
Everything is closed November
Dear Rick:
I have called many of your listings in your book for Italy.
1. Villa Eleana in Varenna
2. Seliano Estate in Pompeii
3. Briskett Hostel in Postiano
4. Parri Farmhouse near Siena.and many others all closed in november
I am having a hard time planning for November with your book. The ones that are open are expensive hotels that will break my budget. It would be helpful if you tell us when they will close.
MAZ <email>
SC, CA USA Tue 09/28/2004
Hotels Rome
We returned from Italy early September and want to sing praises about Hotel Diplomatic in Rome.It is located on 28 Via Vittoria Colonna on the Vatican side of the city. The area is quiet but central to everything (10 minute walk to St Peters, 5 minutes to Via Del Corso)The room are small but clean and the bathrooms are truly modern. All staff were very, very helpful and so friendly.
We were traveling with teenagers, who speak no Italian, (16 and 18) and they were comfortable enough to go to the area's cafes bars and grocery store(there is one less than a block away) on their own. We did book these accomodations in Canada and saved money by doing so. We will definitely stay here again
k Masiero <email>
sudbury, ON Canada Sat 09/25/2004
Veduta Santa Chiara
Veduta Santa Chiara - ASSISI Do not stay at this place, or try to stay here. They cancel reservations without any reason, and also charge more than listed in Rick's book. Don't waste your time.
Jack Cullen <email>
Raleigh, NC USA Fri 09/24/2004
Alimandi, Nardizzi, pickpockets
We arrived in Rome and planned to first visit the Vatican. We stayed at the guidebook recommended Hotel Alimandi and it was perfect! Free and good transportation from the airport, a block away from the Vatican Museum and three blocks from the Metro, and the best breakfast in Italy.
On the back end of our trip we stayed at the Hotel Nardizzi, which was also very nice. It was very convenient to the train station, the Metro, and the ruins. Although there are elevators, we negotiated lots of stairs. The staff was helpful in every way requested.
Beware of pickpockets! I have travelled to Europe a half dozen times without problems. This time was different.
Dennis Siemsen <email>
Oak Ridge, TN USA Fri 09/24/2004
Siena
While we were in Siena, we stayed at the Alma Domus. It was entirely satisfactory with a great location, great views from the rooms (we had three), and a great value. The staff was brisk, but pleasant. Air conditioners are automatically shut off at 11pm. We loved it.
If you stay there, eat at the Ristorante La Pizzaria di nonno Mede at the top of the street. The food is great, the view fantastic. It was definitely the best meal in four days in Siena. Almost all locals there.
We also ate at the guidebook recommended Ristorante Gallo Nero. Although the setting was good, the food was disappointing and I don't think there was a single local in the place - very touristy - drop it.
Dennis Siemsen <email>
Oak Ridge, TN USA Fri 09/24/2004
Italy
Went to Italy, June '04. The overnight train from Prague to Firenze is a must. There is a porter on every car with an espresso machine, beer and wine. But I digress. The Hotel Centrale says they are going to remodel starting in November 2004. Will be shut down for a bit. This is a wonderful place. The service is exceptional, price is reasonable, and drinks with the Albanien law student, night bartender were very entertaining and informative. Had our 20th anneversary at Cafe Bibo in Florence. Everybody gets a small flute of champian, (thought it was just us) what a great place.>p>
Hiked all the trails of the Cinque Terre. My only hint besides, DON'T MISS THIS PLACE, is take the train from Vernazza (where we stayed) to Corniglia, and hike back to Vernazza. This saves a bunch of elevation gain. Can't wait to see the Cinque Terre again. Stayed with Franco Maria, off the harbor in Vernazza. Great price for no view. Very clean with a little noise from people walking by on the street, but I would go back. Could not beleive the number of Rick Steves books at every location. My wife started saying "let us read from the book of Steves" We swear by all the advice.
Kevin Neitzel <email>
Boise, Id. USA Thu 09/23/2004
lake como
Just got back from Europe last night and want to say how helpful your book was. Stayed at the albergo milano in varenna, good food and a beautiful view of the lake. Please warn your travelers arriving by ferry to take the road up to the hotel. No taxis in sight ,they are at the railroad station.Unknowingly we took the path by the lake and had to carry our luggageup about 500 steps.For travelers going to lugano or further from varenna, bellagio, or menaggio take a cab. The cost is much cheaper and quicker than going back to como or milan . Its the same train. The railroad was on strike in italy as usual
don meneghetti <email>
walnut creek, ca USA Tue 09/21/2004
hotels
When possible we booked the hotels Rick recommended and were pleased with them. In Sorrento, La Tonnarella and Hotel del Mare were both great. Our favorite was the Hotel Savoia in Positano because of the spacious attractive rooms, great views from our balcony, and central location. In Rome, I contacted six of the hotels from Rick's book, but they were all full. So I booked Hotel Giuliana recommended on trip advisor. What a disappointment! The staff were helpful, but the 145 euro room was on a noisy street and inferior to the other places we stayed.
JoAnne Nielsen <email>
Mukilteo, WA USA Wed 09/22/2004
GREAT GELLATO IN MILAN
We found a out of the way Gellateria in Milan right by PECK's Deli. It appeared to be one of those snobby over priced places BUT it turned out for us to be a great affordable(by Milan standards) place.
If you get a chance swing by VICTOR HUGO CAFFE on Via Spadari (same block as Pecks Deli on the left hand side of the street on the corner). They have been making Gellato for over 100 years. Try the stawberry and peach combo. It was voted the best Gellato in our book!
Sanchez Couple <email>
San Diego, ca USA Sat 09/18/2004
ITALY 2004 SEPT
First time to Italy. Sister and brother in law visited in May 2004 and they passed on the RS book on to us and advised we would NEED THIS BOOK to make our trip successful! We had a fantastic time. My husband isn't much of a reader and both of us are quite fanatical planners and are not quite the venturers. "The BOOK" as we reffered to it for 15 days was PERFECT and we could not have experienced ITALY ( Rome, Florence, Milan and Venice) as we did without your publication, recomendation are all right on the mark. The previews and snip its of where to go based on the ratings made our daily planning so much easier (rather than making a job). IF YOU CAN RESERVE FOR EVERYTHING WHEN EVER POSSIBLE!!
Sanchez Couple <email>
San Diego, CA USA Sat 09/18/2004
Hotel Villa Steno, Monterosso, Cinque Terre
We used Rick Steves' recommendations for most of our hotels on our honeymoon this past June and they were ALL wonderful. And boy did we wish we had used his book in Venice, we stayed in Locanda SS Giovanni e Paolo and it was terrible! Here are our thoughts on our hotel in the Cinque Terre region:
Monterosso al Mare (Cinque Terre) - Hotel Villa Steno, room 4, 125E per night cash for a double room with private bathrooom, breakfast, and balcony overlooking the lemon groves and sea. We cannot say enough wonderful things about Hotel Villa Steno! When we checked in we were given a most helpful information packet about the Cinque Terre with boat and train schedules, as well as a glass of the local sweet dessert wine. I cannot remember the name of it, but it was 18% alcohol and we certainly felt it on an empty stomach! The hotel is situated a short walk up some steps from the old town and is very quiet. We felt like we were staying in a garden, as there are fruit trees and flowers EVERYWHERE. Breakfast was fantasic (cereals, breads, meats, yogurts, eggs, etc.) and was served from 8am - 10am in their breakfast room or big balcony overlooking the sea. We ate on their baloncy a couple of times and brought it back to our own balcony once when there was no room - they didn't mind and came and picked up the dishes themselves when they cleaned the room.
The hotel was very quiet and their laundry service was most convenient. Guests can "rent" big beach towels for 3E (if you buy one in town it will cost you at least 15E and it will unravel within about a day!). We have already reserved Hotel Villa Steno again for 3 nights this coming May, we loved it that much!
Jill Briesch <email>
Denver, CO USA Wed 09/15/2004
Car Breakdown Caveat
When my husband and I were in Tuscany this past year, our car broke down -- the transmission locked and we couldn't get it out of third gear. We were miles from our hotel and not all downhill! Many Italian men and women came to our rescue. But, we discovered, horrifyingly to our surprise, that you cannot call and "800" number from a cellphone -- all the people who helped gave us access to theirs -- the only number that Hertz gave us for emergencies.
When you rent, make sure you have a number that can be accessed from a cell when you rent your car. Ask for a number in the area where you're travelling.We drove the car to our hotel in 3rd, destroyed the clutch, but we would have been stranded if the car was not able to be driven unless a good Samaritan drove us to our hotel.
When we contacted Hertz, they were very helpful, but couldn't understand our problem -- of course you can't call 800numbers from cells. So why do you give that as an emergency number? we asked. Blank stare. Etc. etc. We never did make our point. But beware.This is the third time we've broken down in Europe -- have made scores of trips. Glad it ended well. This time, we'll be armed with a battery of numbers.
Louise DeSalvo <email>
Upper Montclair, NJ USA Tue 09/14/2004
Recent visit to Italy
Just got back from a whirldwind 10 days in Italy. Flew into Rome and out of Milan. On the way went to Assisi, Florence, Civita, San Gimignano, Sienna, Cinque Terre, Venice and the Dolomites. All were fantastic.
Walked right into the Academia in Florence and walked up to the ticket window at Door number 2 at Uffizi for reservations later in the day no problems at all. We had a car for our trip and drove to Florence on a Sunday. The Fortezza parking was hard to find due to construction so we parked for free along the river in a blue lined spot and walked maybe 3-4 blocks to the Uffizi gallery.
Parking in Sienna was almot impossible. Super crowded but we finally made it into one of the lots near the stadium... I think it was at the Fort. Climbed the clock tower for some great views. The stairs are VERY narrow at the top so if you have claustrophobia issues prob. not the thing for you.
If you do a villa or farmhouse through the Argitourismo website service I would double check on directions wherever you stay. We stayed at Villa Costaglia near Pistoia (which i would not recommed, the town is jam packed with traffic in the mornings and afternoons so it takes forever to get to the autostrade but it is neat Florence) and our directions off the website were awful and basically out right backwards. it took us forever, with the help of very nice people along the road, to finally find it.
Venice, I recommend Locanda Di Orsaria near the train station and at the far end of the Grand Canal. I got that tip off the boards here and it was a good one. Modern bath, good price, breakfast in your room, not too far to lug luggage and then in the morning get the day pass for the vaporetto and cruise the canal past St. Marks one or two stops then walk back up. Very lovely. Visit the Doge's palace. Incredible inside and also no one was in there. A great escape from the crowds in the square.
Cinque Terre-- awesome awesome awesome. Stayed in Monte Rosso b/c of the car but the parking was cheap and right on the beach. Staying here was a last minute change in plans but we found a room at Hotel Baia. The trattoria 2 doors down had great seafood risotto and also a nice insalta della marinara with the freshest seafood I have eaten in my life.The Guvano beach is worth the hike through the damp freaky tunnel as the beach is not crowded and the water and views are excellent.
If you go north the Dolomites are wortht the trip. Absolutely fantastic! We parked in Suis and took the gondola up to the main ski town then rode a second open air ski lift to the meadow in the mountains and ate outside at the Panorama Inn. Had an interesting combo of Italian past and Austrian beer but what views! Food and prices were good here too. Some of the best food we had the whole trip.
In Rome we stayed at the International Palace on Via Nazionale. Close to the train station, subway and all the sites around the Colisseum, Forum, Pantheon etc. Very easy to walk to all of them. If you go to the Vatican the extra Euros to walk to the top of the dome and go inside and then walk to the cupola are worth it! thought I was going to drop dead by the time I got to the top of the Cupola but the views could not be beat. Inside the dome being on the cat walk looking at the incredible mosaics all around I do not think I will ever get over... the gift shop on top of the dome is funny too --just the idea of it being up there. We sat and wrote postcards to family and took a rest then started the climb back down.Can't wait to go back and see all the things we could not get to on this trip!
Diane Neal <email>
Alexandria, VA USA Tue 09/14/2004
Milan Hotel
Milan--Don't stay at Hotel Speronari It was a dump. There were bums begging in front. No A/C. Scarey for women. They did a bait and switch move on us. Our booked room was on the 4th floor and the staircase was too narrow to get up with suitcases. We paid $10 more for the first floor.
Cheryl Brown <email>
Glenview, IL USA Sun 09/12/2004
Italy!!!
Just got back from my three-week honeymoon in Italy. We brought along Rick’s Italy 2004 book and Rome 2004 book. Here are notes and tips from my trip:
VENICE- Accommodation: We stayed at the Locanda SS Giovanni E Paolo (www.locandassgiovanniepaolo.com) near Piazza Santa Maria and the Fondamente Nove vaporetto stop. The rooms were spacious, had a nice view, had a modern bathroom, came with breakfast delivered to your room, and best of all, had no TVs. David and Hafiz were especially helpful during our stay. We stayed in Venice for four nights. Food: We ate at Accademia Pizzeria Foscarini and at Trattoria San Toma. Both places were great. Order the “Menu Veneziano” from Trattoria San Toma.
Tips:
1. At 11:30 p.m., most of the vaporettos that go through the Grand Canal stop running. However, line number N (“Night”) runs every 20 minutes or so from Piazzale Roma. We had to learn this the hard way.
2. To save money, try to avoid riding the vaporettos through the Grand Canal if all you need to do is to get to the train station. If you can, ride the number 42 line, which charges € 2 less than the other lines and enables you to see the Jewish ghetto.
3. For the gondola ride, search out the gondoliers that are off the beaten path. Try to avoid the main tourist thoroughfares like the Rialto Bridge. On our last night in Venice my wife and I were in a rush to ride a gondola so we settled on one near the Rialto. He charged us € 100 up front for 20 measly minutes!
4. Visit the Campanile at the end of the day, there are no lines and it’s nice and cool up there.
CINQUE TERRE- Accommodation: We stayed at one of Tonino Basso rooms at the top of Vernazza. We loved this room cause it had free Internet access and it was very clean. Tonino was extremely nice and helpful. Plus, we ate at his restaurant, Gambero Rosso, where he hooked us up with special bread, schiaccetra, and some dessert.
Food: We ate at all three of Vernazza’s harbor restaurants- Trattoria del Capitano, Trattoria Gianni, and Gambero Rosso. Order the pansotti with walnut sauce from Capitano and the Panna Cotta dessert; from Trattoria Gianni order the spaghetti vongole (spaghetti with mussels and clams) and the trofie with pesto; and from Gambero Rosso order the fried seafood antipasti and of course the schiaccetra wine. For our breakfasts, we went to Il Pirate, run by the affable twin brothers. You must try the cannoli and the very thick hot chocolate. Plan to stay there for at least an hour so that you can hear the brothers’ many stories and jokes.
Tips:
1. The Cinque Terre card is a must if you plan to hike all five towns, use the town shuttles, and use the milk-run train.
2. If going there in the warm months, stake out your spot on the valuable Vernazza beachfront early.
3. Bring plenty of water (at least 1.5L per person) if you plan to hike the towns. If you run out, there is a fresh water fountain at the Corniglia stop.
4. Monterosso-al-Mare has beautiful beaches, but the free section is small.
5. Pack a lunch consisting of local foccacia bread, prosciutto, fresh fruits, and iced tea. Inexpensive and delicious.
PISA- We stopped at Pisa on the way to Florence. We stored our bags at the Pisa train station and took the local city bus to the Campo di Miracoli (about 10 minutes). Pisa is very touristy and seems to be overwhelmed by cheesy souvenir stands. We spent about an hour and a half there which seems enough.
FLORENCE- Accommodations: We stayed three nights at the Bellevue House on Via della Scala, very close to the train station. It is on the fourth floor so it is not for the faint of heart. However, once you get there you will see why Rick recommended this place. Very spacious rooms, huge bathrooms, powerful AC, and free breakfast at the local cafes on the street below. Giacomo was extremely helpful because he booked our Uffizi and Accademia reservations for us.
Food: We ate cheaply at Florence. We ate at Self-Service Ristorante Leonardo, close to the Duomo. The food is served cafeteria-style, but the food is not your typical cafeteria food. My wife and I ate heartily for € 20, including salad and dessert. We ate there a couple of times.
Tips:
1. Reservations are a must at the Accademia and the Uffizi Gallery. We estimate we saved about 2 hours of wait time at the Accademia and 3 hours at the Uffizi.
2. Get the audioguide for the Uffizi. It is worth it.
3. The Boboli Gardens is a nice way to take a break from all the museums and art. It’s on the other side of the Arno River.
4. The best photo opportunities for the Ponte Vecchio is at sunset.
5. A nice way to end your day is to take the bus up to the Piazzale Michelangelo. Grab a camera, a light sweater, and a loved one and watch the sun set over Florence.
SIENA- We day-tripped to Siena from Florence. We took the train because we had purchased the Trenitalia Rail Pass (although it would have saved us 50% if we bought our train tickets as we went, but with the pass we never had to go on the ticket lines- just hop on a train and go). At the train station, cross the street and catch the bus to the town center. We loved the baroque Siena Duomo. Also, my wife and I happened to visit Siena on the first day of Palio, a neighborhood vs neighborhood horse race on the Il Campo. There were thousands and thousands of people packed in the square. What an experience!
Tips: 1. If you are there during Palio, stake out a spot at the edge of the square, preferably closest to the government building. This is the best spot at seeing the horses emerge from their holding area and the bigwigs. 2. For panforte, we bought some at Nannini’s on the main road. It’s delicious as a snack.
ROME- Accommodations: For the first two nights, my wife and I stayed at the five-star Hotel Hassler, situated on the top of the Spanish Steps, thanks to my wife’s workplace. The third and fourth nights we stayed at the Hotel Aberdeen near Piazza Repubblica on Via Firenze. Nice, clean, and helpful, although it’s difficult to assess the hotel after a five-star stay at the Hassler.
Food: We ate at Ristorante La Rustichella near the Vatican Museum. Delicious. They have an antipasti buffet for € 8, so you might not need to order the first and second plates. For gelato we had Gelateria Millennium, right next to La Rustichella. € 1.50 for two scoops? You can’t go wrong.A big recommendation goes to Caffe dello Studente, near the Colosseum. We walked there on the way to the church and Simone saw us toting Rick’s Rome 2004 book. She immediately sat us down, with no extra charge, and served us complimentary cold drinks and appetizers. She then recommended house special sandwiches for lunch and at the end she served us- free of charge- dessert wine! Simone and her family symbolize the quintessential Italian family. Thanks Simone!
Tips:
1. A good and efficient itinerary would be to do Palatine Hill, Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Capitol Hill museums all on one day. They are all situated next to each other. You can also add St.Peter-in-Chains (houses Michelangelo’s Moses).
2. Another good itinerary is to do St. Peter’s Basilica and the Vatican Museum in one day. Don’t leave the Raphael Rooms and the Sistine Chapel for the end- both of these close at least 45 minutes before closing time.
3. Rome has numerous aqueduct-powered water fountains. Use these to save money on buying bottled water. The water is cold and pure.
4. Visit Trastevere at night (8 p.m.) If you decide to go there on a weekend night, they have a riverside festival. You can get a € 5 Greek BBQ dinner and shop for inexpensive arts and crafts.
5. Always have in your daypack a shawl (or light scarf). You’ll always need it to cover yourself at churches (especially at St.Peter’s, where they are extremely strict about the dress code. Do not wear shorts and tops that do not cover the shoulders- you will get turned away).
Overall, my wife and I loved Italy. Try the ciccheti bars in Venice, sunbathe with the locals at the Cinque Terre, go to the Oltrarno in Florence, and explore Trastevere in Rome. Don’t be afraid to explore. If you have any questions about Italy please e-mail me. We would not have had a successful trip had it not been for Rick Steves. Thanks Rick!
Paolo <email>
Lakewood, CA USA Sat 09/11/2004
Mailing Packages from Italy
Mailing purchases home to keep travel light was a great help....but only send the mailer type envelopes at the Italian Post Office because of the new regulations regarding boxes, etc.you will spend over an hour with them,and it still won't be right. It costs 35-50% less then UPS or FED-EX,Mail Boxes Etc, but must admit it only took 5-10 minutes at the expediting services and everything got home A-OK.
Susan <email>
Birmingham, MI USA Wed 09/08/2004
Milan and train station
Used Rick's Italy book and map almost every day on my 35 day travels all over Italy and Sicily this summer and it was great. Details about Milan train station were really helpful. Had a 10 day Trenitalia pass and by myself mostof the time, so I relied on my guide book much of the time for hotels,maps,historic site info. Loved it. The Malpensa express from the train station to airport was a good choice at E4.50.
Susan <email>
Birmingham, Mi. USA Wed 09/08/2004
Transportation Advice -Naples/Amalfi Coast
Thanks for the recommendation of Salvatore Lucibello of DriveAmalfi (driveamalfi@hotmail.com) for our transfers from Naples to Ravello and from Positano back to Naples. He was the calmest most patient driver we have ever used in Italy and his 20 years service at the best hotel in Amalfi certainly showed. This is an area where you need a good reliable safe driver and Salvatore was certainly that.
Cheryl Watson <email>
CA USA Mon 09/06/2004
Amalfi Coast off the beaten track
Please include the Town of Scala and the small village of Pontone both of which are near Ravello and which offer a true representation of Amalfi Coast life as it is away from the tourist traps. Lemon Groves and Vineyards dominate and the history leaps out at you around every corner. A must is a visit to the San Giovanni restaurant in Pontone (WWW.ristorantesangiovanni.com)which offers a true taste of the Amalfi Coast free of inflated tourist menus.
Cheryl Watson <email>
CA USA Mon 09/06/2004
Beautiful Town in Tuscany
This posting is very tardy but the wonderful memories of our trip to Italy in May are certainly long-lasting enough to make it feel like yesterday. I'd like to recommend the gorgeous and charming town of Montepulciano.Known for its wine, Montepuliciano is one of Tuscany's many walled cities, high atop a mountain. It is small, elegant without being snobby, and beautiful.
We stayed at at hotel called La Terraza, run by a wonderful Italian family. While their English wasn't the best, they were very helpful and our large room was fantastic!The town is pretty hilly but it's a great way to work off the amazing food and wine you'll be enjoying. The town is filled with lots of tasting room and "grazing rooms," where you can sample different cheeses, salamis, etc.Mmm...can't wait to go back!
Lisa <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Fri 09/03/2004
Vernazza, Cinque Terre
My family and I recently returned from Cinque Terre, where we stayed at a wonderful apt. in Vernazza. It is run by Rosa Vitali, and is listed in Rick's book. The apt. was charming and roomy with a balcony that overlooked the main street. We were thrilled to have a refrigerator, not to mention small kitchen.
Laurie Akers <email>
Marysville, WA USA Tue 08/31/2004
Aguritismo Pomonte, Orvieto
I mistakenly placed this message in the wrong section, so thought I better re-post it. My family and I recently returned from Italy, and stayed at a wonderful Aguritismo in Umbria, named Aguritismo Pomonte. It is 7 km from Oriveto, so close by many great hilltowns and sites. The family who ran it was delightful - their hospitality and wonderful food placed them in our top vote for favorite places to stay.
Laurie Akers <email>
Marysville, Wa USA Tue 08/31/2004
A great accommodation in Tuscany
We spent a delightful two weeks in an agriturismo in Alberoro, in the Val di Chiana area of Tuscany, Italy in June ’04. It is a 20-minute ride from Arezzo and is located midway between Florence and Siena with easy access to the A1 autostrada.
The Foresteria Il Giardino di Fontarronco ( phone 011-039-0575-846044, fax 011-039-0575-846045, e-mail info@foresteria.it or visit www.foresteria.it ) i san 18th-century villa that has been lovingly restored and furnished by the proprietor Francesco Illuminati. The Illuminati family owns the farm on which La Foresteria is located as well as other farms, vineyard and olive groves in the area.
Francesco is on site mornings and afternoons to give advice on nearby hill towns to visit, to make reservation at local restaurants, to give any other assistance needed or just to chat. He is most personable and knowledgeable and speaks fluent English, having done his graduate studies at Cambridge University.There are 10 apartments of various sizes and configurations located in either the manor house or various outbuildings. All have views of the adjoining fruit orchards and mountains beyond. Each has modern bath, patio, satellite TV and Internet-accessible telephone.Our one bedroom apartment, which slept three, cost € 700 ($ 800) per week.In addition, there is a large, sparkling pool on the grounds.
Twice a week, an outstanding 4 course gourmet dinner is offered to guests of the Foresteria at a cost of € 30 ($ 34) per person. These meals were among the finest we have ever had anywhere!We fully intend to return on a future visit and wouldn’t hesitate to recommend it.
Mike Kane <email>
San Diego, CA USA Tue 08/31/2004
Great accommodation in Tuscany
MIke Kane <email>
San Diego, CA USA Tue 08/31/2004
Florence, Siena & Rome
My wife and I just got back from Italy for a one week holiday. Here are my comments on our trip.
Florence-We stayed at the Cimitori B&B, which is about halfway between the Duomo and the Uffizi Gallery. Well worth it. Dominico was very pleasant; the rooms were clean; and it was in a quiet area. The price was very inexpensive.
Siena-I wouldn't recommend the Athena Hotel, where we stayed. It had an incredible view of the Tuscan Hills, but the location is quite a distance from the downtown (inclusive of hills, but within the city wall). Take the time and wonder the beautiful streets in the evening.
Rome-Stayed at the Jolly Hotel Viterio,near the Borghese Gardens. Safe, clean and reasonably priced. Some nice inexpensive and quality restaurants in the area.
Chad Harcus <email>
Chicago, IL USA Tue 08/31/2004
Cinque Terra
We spent a couple of days on the Cinque Terre and fell in love with it. We stayed in Vernazza in one of Martina Calla's rooms which was amazing. Her room #3 which is at the top of one of the buildings on Piazza Marconi, with a great terrace. And lots of stairs to climb as well. Our last day, we left our bags with her all day and beached in Monterossa before leaving on a train for Florence. Potential hikers should be warned that parts of the 7+ mile hike between the five towns is quite strenuous. But it is definitely worthwhile. The views are spectacular, and walking on the cultivated terraces is unique. Pizzeria Ercole opened up the week we were there and is great, specializing in the Chickpea Flat Pie unique to the region. It is a magical place we would highly recommend.
Rita & Barry <email>
Vienna, VA USA Sat 08/28/2004
accommodation in Rome
We spent three nights in Rome late June at Smart B&B near Termini Station. Our hosts were very obliging and the room extra large and clean, but there was only one bathroom for the six people in 3 double rooms to share and not even a separate toilet. Rather alarming if you wanted to use the loo in a hurry and someone had just beaten you in there to shower and shave! Also breakfast was "served" the day before -a packaged croissant with nothing to put on it,a popper of juice and a piece of fruit.
Lynne Wells <email>
Sydney, NSW Australia Fri 08/27/2004
Italy
We spent a wonderful holiday in Italy in May and June and would like to pass on our recommendations and a few warnings.We started in the north with 3 nights at Stresa on Lake Maggiore and 3 nights at Menaggio on Lake Como. Both lakes breathtakingly beautiful. Our accommodation at Menaggio, Il Vapore, (ilvapore@cheapnet.it) was cheap (E50 double with bath) and comfortable, run by a lovely lady with little English, who also ran the restaurant downstairs. We had a room with a balcony and lake views.For garden lovers, don't miss Villa Monastero at Varenna ,Villa Melzi at Bellagio and Villa Carlotta at Tremezzo.
Our 5 nights at Manarola in the Cinque Terre were just about enough to fit in the 5 villages, as well as Levanto, Camogli and S. Margherita to the north and Portovenere and Lerici to the south via La Spezia. There's a 3 or 5 day pass available for the Cinque Terre National Park which allows access to all walking trails and train travel between the 5 towns and beyond to Levanto and La Spezia.
In Tuscany we chose to stay in Lucca and Siena rather than in Florence. Our accommodation in Lucca was very disappointing and we would not recommend it. Da Elisa alle Sette Arte in Via Elisa offered reasonable rooms but they were never cleaned, the beds were not made and the towels were not changed in the 4 days we were there. There were 3 rather seedy bathrooms to be shared by all the rooms. However, a few doors away, the Drogheria is a great place to eat - friendly, young staff, good food and nice atmosphere. It's very popular with the locals, so a good idea to book a table or you may have a long wait! The Saturday market outside the walls is good fun and has some great bargains, including shoes and clothes.A magnificent garden and lovely villa not to be missed is Palazzo Pfanner inside the city walls.
In Siena, Soggiorno Lo Stellino (soggiornostellino@venere.com) turned out to be much nicer than its website pictures would suggest. However, it is a bit far from the centre of town and waiting for buses was quite frustrating. Excellent for anyone travelling by car though, with a big car-park.
In Sorrento we had a bit of a disaster with Hotel Nice on Corso Italia just near the Circumvesuviana Station. Brilliant location and our room was lovely except that the window opened onto the neighbour's back- yard rubbish tip and we couldn't open the window for the insects! As we were staying for a week, we requested a change of room and were moved to another where endless crashing and banging was going on overhead - a major renovation in progress, which they first tried to explain away as a one-day emergency! Once again we had to move and pack up all our belongings to do so. By the time we left,the owner simply scowled at us and did not even say goodbye - as tho it was our fault.
Lynne Wells <email>
Sydney, NSW Australia Fri 08/27/2004
Lake Como
Albergo olivedo: I have seen so many comments about this place and Laura. I had thought of staying there but lucked out on a WONDERFUL place just outside of Bellagio. (Silvio's). The view was beautiful, the room was sparkling clean and they had four gorgeous, loving dogs hanging around the fireplace! (Brio,Adam,Kim,Yuri). And delicious food! I took the ferry over to Varenna one day and stopped at albergo oliveda and had some lunch. I met Laura ,saying I had heard her name through the Rick Steves' book. She was pleasant enough in a chilly sort of way but the lunch price was outrageous! 15 euro for a very mediocre bowl of vegetable soup! I was very glad I had chosen Silvio's!
Kathy <email>
Minneapolis, mn USA Thu 08/26/2004
Italy 2004 guidebook
Kudos to RS guidebook Italy. Accomodations in Padua Casa del Pellegino were excellent.Also stayed in Bolzano to see the Dolomites. Suggest anyone wishing to visit this beautiful area should stay in Castelrotto instead.Bolzano to me does not offer any advantages as the real beauty of this area is in the villages of the Dolomites.
JS
CA USA Thu 08/26/2004
Majestic Palace Hotel
Spent a week at the Majestic Palace Hotel in Sorrento (Amalfi Coast)in August. I would highly recommend it. The staff is great (helped me to recover my lost luggage!), friendly and concerned that you enjoy your stay with them. The breakfast (included in rate) is the best we had in Italy. There is a wonderful outdoor pool with lots of chairs for lounging. Our room was large and sunny and had a magnificant balcony and a good bathroom and shower. It's on a quiet street and you can walk just up the street and catch the bus into the busy shopping and restaurant area of Sorrento. When in Sorrento, don't miss the spectacular bus tour on the Amalfi Coast or the wonderful boat ride to the island of Capri. Loved every minute of our time in this most beautiful southern part of Italy!
Joan <email>
Willowdale, Ontario Canada Thu 08/26/2004
White runners...
Just returned from Rome,Italy, and took the advice I read in so many places, not to wear white runners in Rome. Wrong!! Wrong!! Wrong!! If you are going to Rome, you will have no problem wearing your white runners. In fact anywhere in Italy. Stayed at the Hotel Italia and found it to be a gem. Quiet street off Via National, close to Termini Station, friendly/helpful staff, clean rooms, GREAT shower, very reasonable. Try it, you will like it!
Joan Altmann <email>
USA Thu 08/26/2004
Consider Ferrara
I picked Ferrara as a base for a day trip to Ravenna more because of its direct rail links with Rome and Venice than for its former role as the seat of the Este family and the long list of sights in the fat little brochure the tourist office mailed me (none of them must-sees). But I liked Ferrara so much I nearly skipped Ravenna (which would have been a mistake - the mosaics are marvelous). Ravenna has sights, Ferrara is a sight - a town that hosts tourists without becoming touristy - no little tourist train, no sightseeing bus, no tour guides with umbrellas - a place to kick back and imagine being an Italian without worrying about being run over by a herd of homo turisticus groupus. An almost intact nine kilometer circuit of medieval walls still encloses the core of the town, the Este's castle-palace still stands four-square within its moat, and the narrow streets of the former Jewish quarter still enchant, with some houses built literally across the street on arches. Arches are everywhere in Ferrara, along with shady arcades. So are bicycles, ridden by the locals around their very flat town.
I stayed at the very recommendable Borgonuovo B&B (http://www.borgonuovo.com/index-eng.html) with helpful owners and home-made goodies for breakfast, but there seemed to be plenty of other B&Bs and a rather nice central hotel.
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC USA Wed 08/25/2004
Italy
My 17 year old daughter and I just returned from 2 weeks in Italy using Rick's 2004 book. Not one bad experience! I had only prebooked 2 cities accomodations (Siena and Firenze) for 2 nights each, but never had to call more than once to each new city to get a room listed the night before we arrived. I don't think it was the smartest thing to do, but it all worked out.
ASSISI was beautiful - we stayed at Camere Annalisa Martini (which doesn't show the "Annalisa" when you find it) and it was perfect - Db 34 euro. My daughter just reminded me that I should recommend taking a taxi up to the hotel, because it was quite a walk.
SIENA was just days from the Palio which made it very exciting - and it might have been the prettiest city. We stayed at the Albergo Bernini for 62 euro. I saw Rick's families Christmas card on the wall at the reception desk and knew I was in the right place!
Firenze - Amazing to see David, and loved all the art in the plaza - no lines and free. We stayed at Soggiorno Pezzati. Nice place.
VENICE - Words escape me. I will go back some day. We stayed at the Alloggi alla Scala. It helped that it was next to the spiral stairway because we bought a postcard of the stairway and then showed it to people while asking for directions. We liked the prison inside the Doge's Palace, but mostly it was the canals and bridges that made it so amazing.
VERNAZZA -Beautiful! Amazingly clear warm water. The kayaks were 8 euros an hour to rent and worth it. We stayed in the frescoed ceiling room of Nicolina's (washing machine was there but wouldn't turn on) and we ate at her restaurant, Vulnetia. Wonderful food and service. If you go, would you PLEASE say hello to Anna from Australia who is working in the restaurant? She answered the phone when we called from Venice asking if there was a room. She didn't know, said call back in an hour and "no worries". We did call back and booked the room. We told them that our train wouldn't get there until late - 10:30 or 11ish. Wrong. The lines were closed for maintenance, and everyone had to depart the train and transfer to a bus that was supplied, then get back on the train farther down the line. We got to the train stop in Vernazza at 1:00 AM and didn't know what to do. From out of the darkness emerged a lovely Australian voice who asked if we were the people staying at Nicolina! Anna had waited for several trains so that she could give us our key. What an amazing sweetheart! What kindness - it won't be forgotten.
ROME - the last stop. We stayed at the Hotel Montreal, and I felt better with the security that they offered. We arrived at 9:30 PM, and walking to it felt a little iffy. Lots of young people congregating at the nearby Santa Maria Maggiore breaking glass and being rowdy. We walked everywhere and things were pretty easy to find. For dinner we went to a wonderful alley place called I Diavoletti, on Via Urbana, 56/57.
Only once did we encounter thief types - 2 young guys who were undoing my R.S.daypack zippers, but didn't think about the way the sun was making shadows so that I saw it happening! They walked off as if nothing had happened. On the daypack topic, I had two nice encounters with an American traveling alone - Tracy?- who talked to me because we both chose the teal colored R.S. bag! Lots of fun - thanks to Rick for making this seem like something I could do with my daughter and have "no worries"! Ciao all. Mari
Mari Knowles <email>
Seattle, WA USA Wed 08/25/2004
Vernazza
Lots said about Venice, Florence, Rome, etc. so I only want to add an endorsement for a very hospitable host in Vernazza - Giuliano Basso. Due to miscommunication, our first night's reservation had been given up, but he was willing to take us into his own home, but after phoning around and serving us refreshments, he found a place for one night and then we came to his place for the last 2 nights. I fear his name has been unfairly tainted elsewhere in this collection of comments. We saw very few N.A. tourists in Vernazza (August) and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. By the way, Rick - Italian Gelato is better than I could have imagined! I had my daily dosage.
Dave Loewen <email>
Abbotsford, BC Canada Tue 08/24/2004
Cinque Terre and Tuscany
We arrived in Nice due to a business conference and then took the train to Cinque Terre to begin our week in Italy. We stayed in Riomaggiore at Edi's Rooms where we had a beautiful, clean modern room with a terrace and mini garden. What a lovely and beautiful area. We hiked between the towns and rode the train back. It's everything as Rick describes it and is unbelievably beautiful. We spent two nights there and then took the train to Pisa (stored our luggage as Rick suggests) and took the bus to the Field of Miracles. Walked back to the train station, stopping at a little neighborhood bar for sandwiches for lunch. It was well worth the side-trip. Then we continued on the train to Siena where we rented a car to drive to our B&B. All of the ones we selected from Rick's book were not available but we asked one of the ones who were booked to recommend another and she gave us three good choices of which we reserved one for the first night near Siena and another in Greve in Chianti. Both were outstanding: Locanda del Mulino in Gaiole in Chianti and Le Cetinelle in Greve. We spent one day seeing Siena (our faviorite city so far) and while staying at the second B&B, Le Centille, we took the bus from Greve to Florence to avoid driving in the city. It was a one hour ride and well worth it. We purchased the bus tickets from the tobacco shop in town and went directly to the bus station in Florence. After 5 days in Italy, we returned the car to Florence and took the train back to France. We were trying to arrange an overnight train to the Provence area but the connections were not possible. We went to Nice for one night and then continued on to the Provence area from there. We love France, especially Provence, but our time in Cinque Terre and Tuscany was by far one of our favorite vacations!
Michelle & Barry <email>
Alden, NY USA Tue 08/24/2004
Rome Guide
Aug 17, 2004. Rick Steves' Guide to Roma was outstanding!! The only problem was a restaurant near the Colosseum about to go on vacation and ran out of some food and drink (but they gave us a price break - we'd go there again). The Guide was just what we needed - concise, interesting, helpful - it simply was outstanding!!!!
Dick Tunstall <email>
Trumbull, CT USA Tue 08/17/2004
Siena & the Palio
Be forewarned of booking Palio tickets through Villa Piccolo Siena. The snacks advertised & offered were fine, but all beverages ran out well before the race. These were not replenished even when those in charge were told. The snacks also appeared as part of breakfast the next morning. We were not told that if we left our spot on the balcony 1 hour before the race we would not get it back. The owner of the property & 3 friends pushed their way onto the balcony preventing the paying guests from returning to their seats. My advice is find another balcony to use.
Karen <email>
Forsyth, GA USA Wed 08/11/2004
Italian adventure
It's been a month since returning from 2 weeks in Italy with my 21 yr old daughter and I'm still glowing. Rick, your guidebook was indespensable. My daughter often said that you were like an extra person traveling with us - "Let's ask what Rick thinks". (Sometimes she even said that as a compliment!) We visited Venice, Lake Como, Cinque Terre, Siena, and Rome.
Venice - Magic, what more can I say? Please consider adding kinder words about the Lido. Even tho the beach was crowded, it was a welcome respite from the tour groups on the main island. It also made a 50 yr old woman feel like she might just still be able to wear a bikini after all!
Lake Como - our main activity was sitting at a lakeside cafe and letting the waiter bring us whatever he wanted. Drinks, snacks, dessert, dinner, who cares - he did not make us spend more than we wanted so we came back the next day & did the same thing.
Siena - we could not reserve a room during the Friday night of Il Palio, but we snagged a room for the 2 days before. Anyone considering adding this experience to their Italian adventure should try very hard to be in town for one of the most emotional highs ever.
Cinque Terre- cats and all, I'd go back for at least a week. I can still conjure up the taste of the wonderful seafood stew in Vernazza.
Rome - hot, crowded, exhausting, interesting beyond compare. Wouldn't have missed it for the world. Be sure to book a room with a/c and a private bath. This was one place I'm glad we spent abit more for a comfortable room.
We booked purposefully a variety of accomodations, private rooms, larger hotels with a/c, smaller ones with bath down the hall, etc.
The only place I would not return to was Hotel Beretta in Varenna/ Lake Como. It was very noisy, right on a busy street corner and a busy tavern below. And while the older gentleman seated downstairs at the bar solving the problems of the world was a local charm the first night, on the second night at 3:00am, his ranting, booming Italian voice traveling up to our 2nd floor window felt like a dagger through our temples. Even tho, it did have the redeeming feature of having the best towels -large linen sheets that were unexpectedly refreshing on a hot day.
Sure, we had the usual situations, train strike, bus strike, getting lost, but these all were expected and just added to the charm of Italy. Travelers should savor these moments and use them to strike up conversations with strangers, explore unplanned locations or use problem-solving skills. (And don't forget your money belt! It's not worth worrying about loosing your purse, money or passport if it can be easily prevented)
Linda O <email>
Waunakee, WI USA Tue 08/10/2004
Tuscany and Umbria
We rented a car for a 12 day road trip through Tuscany and Umbria and their neighbors. It was fabulous.
Rick doesn't mention Monte Argentario – Porto S. Stefano, but then he can't list ALL the wonderful places. This is a small fishing village, just north of Rome. Delightful place to recover from the flight over and get into Italy.
Orvieto and Chivita were everything Rick promises. Well worth the two days. Stayed at a great bed and breakfast with wonderful hosts. In Chivita we saw another couple with Rick's book in hand! (Also in Montepulciano)
Also stayed in Florence at Hotel Pendini - as Rick says, well worn but very well run. Right in the middle of everything you want to see.
In Venice we stayed at Hotel Mercurio - great little place near St. Marks and off the busy streets.
In Rome we stayed at Hotel Navona - just off the square.
Rick's words were fun to have along and we enjoyed seeing them come to life! Thanks Rick!
Sally <email>
Denver, CO USA Tue 08/10/2004
Cinque Terre, Manarola
Just to weigh in Cinque Terre... We stayed only one night in the midst of a month long European odyssey, but it was possibly the best night of all.. We (family of four) stayed in the hostel in Manarola. Very organized; lots of young US students; good local pesto and wine at reasonable prices; warnings about not being "drunken Americans", etc. Lay on the rocks, swam in the Mediterranean with the locals. Not enough time to hike, but it clearly would have been fantastic, from just driving along the coast on our way to Provence. Can recommend Manarola, even tho' it seems to be Rick's least favorite town. Romantic walk along cliff path after dinner and the kids in bed. Return to find 3 on 3 (very skilled) soccer game in church square with nets to prevent the ball flying off the cliffs into never never land. Ref stood on bench in church doorway...
Ray Clarke <email>
Malvern, PA USA Mon 08/09/2004
Italy travel tips
My wife and I just returned from a fantastic, unbelievable 2 1/2 week trip to Italy. I can see why Rick says it's his favorite country - now it's ours too! Here's some tips for anyone heading to No. Italy:
MILAN: Worth a half-day. Hot and humid in late-July but not too oppressive. The Duomo is spectacular, even with the front covered by scaffolding. Climb the stairs to the roof and mingle with the towers and gargoyles. Have a beer at a cafe in the adjacent Galleria and enjoy the great people-watching. Imagine Mussolini ranting from the balcony in the square. Then, providing you called 3-months prior (easy to do with Rick's Italy 2004)take the Metro from the Duomo to Santa Maria Delle Grazie Church and enjoy da Vinci's magnificient "Last Supper". We went in at right at our reserved time. There is another painting opposite the Last Supper worth admiring as well.
Note: If you plan to check bags at the Milan Central Train Station be aware that the line can be long because all bags are inspected by a slow-moving security team! We took the 7:00 PM train to Florence to avoid staying overnight in Milan.
Florence: The best! Worth 2 days at least to discover this beautiful, medieval city. The Bellevue House is an oasis - next to Santa Maria Novella Church - it's quiet, air-conditioned, clean and run by friendly Antonio and Rosanna. A deal at 80 euros. Request the Victoria room, which faces a lovely courtyard. You must be able to climb 3-4 floors of stairs to stay here, but it's worth it. Then, we're off to...
Siena: Took the bus which was fast and cheap. The bus station is next to the train station and a block from the Bellevue House. 1 1/2 hours later we're in Albergo Benini in Siena. Nice place. Allesandro, the son, speaks English and was very helpful. Mauro will play you a tune on the accordian, however, his had is hurting a bit. Our room was nice, however expect some ambient noise from the restaurant beneath the beautiful terrace (unless you are eating there too!)Siena is incredible. The Duomo has to be seen to be believed. Wow, is that place busy with statues, art...everything! My wife had bare shoulders but they provided her a cover. Hang out and have a lemoncino on Il Campo. Yup, it's the best piazza in Italy, for sure. Wake up to church bells and explore the walled city - it's teriffic. Rented a car and traveled to Pienza, Montalcino and Montepulciano. Worthy stops all, especially if you're wine lovers like us. A terrific day. Then off by train to...
Pisa: Worth a stop on the way to the Cinque Terre. Checked our bags at the train station (no inspection) and caught the bus across the street to The Field of Miracles. Yes, there's a lot of trinket shops, however, we were impressed with the Tower and the Duomo. Took the obligatory holding-the-tower-up shots and walked back to the train station (20 minutes), grabbing a slice of pizza and a gelato en route. Fun, fun, fun. Then to La Spezia and...
Vernazza: What a place! Not an ugly-American in sight, or many Americans at all. We stayed with Martina Callo, on her room #3 with terrace over Piazza Marconi. It was perfect. Lots of stairs to climb so be prepared! A deal at 70 euros and the best view imaginable. some noise from the piazza late, but only if it's hot and you need the windows open. Have her dad, Guiseppe, take you to his "cellar" off the piazza and get a bottle of his wine - 5 euros and you're set. Try his, or anyone's, sciacchettra, a local dessert wine - it's tremendous.
Hiking: Vernazza to Monterosso, I'd figure 2 hours to enjoy the views. Bring light-hiking shoes and plenty of water. The trail climbs steeply out of Vernazza, then rools up and down before dropping into Monterosso. They are doing some work on this section and railings are being added. Not a difficult or dangerous hike for seasoned hikers. There are some drop-offs along the way but nothing terribly hairy.
Vernazza to Corniglia: 1 1/2 hours, very nice, not as much climbing as Vernazza to Monterosso. We did some swimming at Corniglia (no, not at the nude Guvano Beach!). Disregard Rick's mention of "tourists bungalos and showers" - they are abandoned now.
Corniglia to Manarola was an easy 45 minutes and the trip on from there to Riomaggiore is an easy 20 minute paved stroll. Rent a kayak at the harbor in riomaggiore if the water is calm and enjoy the world-class view from the Ligurian Sea. Sadly, left Vernazza after 4 days to...
Courmayeur: I think Rick should put the Aosta Valley in his Italy 2005 book! The view of the Alps from Courmayeur is unbelievable! The hiking is great and we found a nice hotel - the Hotel Select - with views of Mt. Blanc for 85 euros. Okay, it's a resort, but the surrounding country is awesome and there are many castles to explore in the Aosta Valley. Worth a trip, for sure. Then, through the Mt Blanc tunnel by bus to...
Chamonix: Wow, this place is overwhelming in August! The Hotel Au Bon Con was nice and had views to Mt. Blanc and the Blosson Glacier. The Auguille du Midi lift was closed (August 2) due to another mechanical problem. we took lifts up the opposite side of the vally and enjoyed Rick's suggested hike #2 from Planplaz...stunning. Chamonix's weather turned sour so we took off after 2 days to unwind in...
Varenna: On Lake Como. We had no problem with Serious Laura at the Hotel Olivedo. We had called 2 days prior from Chamonix and she had a room overlooking the lake, a beautiful room for 150 euros a night with breakfast and dinner. Nice food in her restuarant. Okay, she's personality-challenged but was helpful and courteous. But I wouldn't want to be on her bad side. She is aware she gets a lot of business from Rick's book. Take the ferry to Bellagio, have lunch on the lake and relax before heading back to Milan. we stayed at Hotel Cervo, near Malpensa Airport and it was perfect. Nice little place in a small village 5 minutes from the airport. No stress, good, cheap food and friendly people.
A terrific trip - thanks to Rick and "Italy 2004" for being so much help!
Dave Johnson <email>
Sacramento, CA USA Mon 08/09/2004
cinque terre
Okay, so I loved all the other hotels. What about in the Cinque Terre? Well you see,that is the problem. We stayed in Levanto at the Villa Margherita by the sea. I felt it was very overpriced for what you got. The breakfast was nice enough. The breakfast staff were nice, but I do not feel it was worth 110 Euro a night. It was the most expensive place of my entire trip, including a four star hotel in Amsterdam and a four star in Nice. They were so much better for less. I would defintely choose to stay right in the cinque Terre and skip the grueling walk with the backpacks. I know we could have done much better.
Valerie <email>
Seattle, WA USA Sat 08/07/2004
Vernazza and Varenna Accommodations Problems
We toured italy by car in July and had a wonderful time. We stayed in a wonderful two bedroom apartment (rented out by venice rentals.com) in Venice and a magnificent B&B in Florence (Il Poggiolo, see my 8/7 post on the heroic B&B friendliness graffiti wall).
however, i want to make comments on two of Rick's recommended hotels with whom we had problems with our reservations:
(1) Albergo Beretta in Varenna--when we arrived, they had no room for us, even though I had brought a copy of their e-mail to me confirming our reservations. I went past this hotel twice during the remainder of the day and both times i saw disgruntled tourists standing at the bus station outside the hotel complaining about cancelled reservations. The only good thing that came out of this nightmare was that they sent us to a small hotel (Albergo Ristorante All'Orrido, Via XX Settembre, 19, telephone 0341 81 03 10) in Bellano, the next town north. Although the bathroom was down the hall, we had a wonderful stay there and the food in their restaurant was delicious and very reasonably priced.
(2) Elisabetta's Villino Azzurro -- she required a 50% deposit and, by choice, I sent her 75%, and she confirmed receipt by e-mail. However, when we arrived, she demanded another 50%, even though I showed her her own e-mail to me confirming that I only owed 25% more. We left the next morning, leaving the 25% on the nightstand (she had told us to leave 50%) and no one chased us down the street, so i am led to believe that she just trying to see what she could get away with. Let the buyer beware!! In addition, potential customers should be aware that the apartment is 112 steps straight up...the view was great, but I'm not sure it was worth the climb...
Mark Gould <email>
Hanover, PA USA Sat 08/07/2004
verrana italy -train
thanks so much for allerting us to be careful to get the correct train fr milan to verrana on lake como. there is also a train to verano and neither one is the destination! going to look at the list of stops and checking the spelling is the key. met 3 teachers traveling together who did not have the benefit of this info and spent three hrs and alot of frustration trying to rectify being on a train to the wrong city!
bob and judy <email>
tucson, az USA Fri 08/06/2004
Capri - Anacapri - That's Amore
Capri - Anacapri Villa Le Scale "A Tale of Two Capris"
Will sharing our experience forever change the place we fell in love with on the isle of Capri? Will others appreciate and respect Anna Maria Coronato's thoughtful and elegant restoration of her family's magnificent villa, its history and its heart? Let me preface my remarks with a bit of a disclaimer: for those simply looking to spend a day or so on Capri in order to check Capri off their list of "1,000 Places to See Before You Die," there are a myriad of other options on Capri. However, if a week or two on one of the most enchanting islands in the world isn't a completely bizarre proposition for you, Villa le Scale may provide the perfect venue for experiencing both Capris that coexist to this day. While one Capri has clearly evolved into a caricature of itself as the ferryboats disgorge day-trippers by the thousands into the piazetta and novelty shops, the other Capri lies in wait for those who care enough to look beneath the surface of this island of unparalleled natural beauty. Capri's dramatic landscape, her sea and her people are as interesting and inspiring now as before.
Let's return to our beginning. Our honeymoon on Capri began July 19th. While we were initially lured to Capri by its reputation for sun, the sea and la dolce vita, we were also intrigued by the legends of the gods, emperors, fishermen and artists who have all called Capri home at various times in the past. Months of research on everything from villas, including a home carved into a cave high on a cliff overlooking Marina Piccola, numerous hotels, B&Bs and even the option of living aboard a chartered sailboat seemed to lead us in circles. Questions, doubts and more questions followed. Nothing seemed quite right for this special moment in our new lives together. We finally narrowed down the possibilities one by one, ruling out virtually all of the hotels, private villas and boats, ultimately searching only for something intimate, quiet and comfortable. We secretly dreamed of being indulged, even pampered.
One day, by chance and perhaps destiny, Google led us to Umberto D'Aniello's beautiful photographs of Capri and Villa le Scale. We both knew immediately that we had found our home for our two weeks on Capri. Songbirds woke us every morning for breakfast, served on our private flowered terrace overlooking the distant sea. The pool's soft waters cooled us frequently during the day while the vibrant, shady gardens provided solace and peace. Norberto, Bindo and Annie always welcomed us back enthusiastically as we returned from our sun filled days and star filled nights. From the moment of our arrival to the tears upon our departure, our home in Anacapri was above and beyond our wildest dreams. If you are interested in uncovering the hidden richness of Capri, there is no better place to start. The rest is up to you.
Gordon Sadler <email>
Burlington, VT USA Fri 08/06/2004
Soggiorno Battistero, Florence
During Easter week 2004, my daughter and I stayed at Soggiorno Battistero in Florence. The location was fantastic and Kelly, the American owner, was extremely efficient and helpful. She answered every e-mail immediately, answered our questions, gave her recommendations when asked, and made reservations for us at the museums. Of all the hotel reservations we made during our 38-day trip, I felt most confident about everything being in order when we arrived at this hotel and I was not disappointed.
One thing I want to mention that we did not anticipate was the second-hand smoke in our room. We are not smokers and are prone to migraine headaches and allergies. We stayed here three nights and because of the cigarette smoke which somehow found its way into our room, we had difficulty breathing (and therefore sleeping)at night and had miserable headaches by morning which made our sightseeing days less enjoyable. Everything else about staying here was great but next time we will choose a smoke-free environment.
Jane <email>
Memphis, TN USA Fri 08/06/2004
Europeon vacation
My 18 year old daughter and I returned from our 3 1/2 week vacation to Rome, Florence, Venice, Varenna, Paris and London approximately 1 week ago. We had a great time. It was our first international vacation and it was just the two of us. We did not have any problems with any one trying to rob us or bother us in anyway.
Unfortunately, within 2 days of arriving...our first stop was Rome, my daughter developed a fever and was quite ill...it was a difficult situation because the hotel where we were staying (Downtown Accomodations) had a night receptionist that did not understand any english or even italian, but we did end up getting assistance from the hotel down the street on Via Cavour. The doctor came to our hotel and my daughter had the beginning stages of pneumonia...thank God we caught it at the beginning stages. He gave her a prescription and we picked it up at a nearby pharmacy. By the way, the pharmacies are very helpful. We then went on to Florence and stayed at the Hotel Belletini, very nice place to stay. Gina and Claudio and their staff are great. Great breakfast.
We went to Pisa, Venice (I loved Venice), we stayed near St. Mark's Square, it was close to everything, the hotel was clean and neat but expensive for such a small room. My favorite place was Varenna on Lake Como, I loved it. We did not have a reservation but they fit us in at the Hotel Beretta, we were on the 3rd floor corner room which had a fabulous view of the lake and the mountains and all for just 60 euros/night.
We loved Italy. We had no problems at all buying our train tickets as we went, my daughter caught right on how to buy the tickets from the machines, it was quick and easy. Again, we had no trouble what so ever at the train stations/airports/hotels/on the streets with anyone trying to pickpocket us and rob us...we always kept our purse/backpack in front of us with at least one had on it. We felt safer in these cities than at home...really.
We then went on to Paris (Hotel Leveque) where the receptionist was very rude to us as soon as we walked in and I ended up switching our stay from 5 nights to 3 nights because of this. The night receptionist, Driss, made up for the day guy, and was wonderful to us. We loved the Effel Tower. Our last week was spent with my brother and family in London and we were ready to relax a little. We enjoyed the Big Bus tour and seeing the sights of London. Another plus, was that we were able to find internet cafes in Rome, Florence, Venice, Paris and London...perfect, when you are traveling with an 18 year old girl who misses her friends and her boyfriend. Also, we purchased international phone cards and in some instances received 180 minutes for 5 euro (Paris)...what a deal. All in all, we had an adventure that we will never forget...our trip of a lifetime. Thanks Rick for your guidebooks...they were with us all along the way.
Jackie & Shannon <email>
Petaluma, CA USA Thu 08/05/2004
italy
Late july toured Italy with some of my high school students using a lousy tour company, CHA (see under tourist scams). Here are highlights mentioned in the guidebooks:
ROME - Hotel Portamaggoirre - lousy a/c and near nothing. Rome was very crowded with a strong sun but the forum, coloseeum, trajan's market, and catacombs were great. St. Peter's and the Vatican museum were amazing.
SORRENTO - hot and humid - Plaza Hotel - thief on staff went through students belongings two days in a row and the management was rude and refused to look into it; no security. Pompeii was hot and crowded but head to the house of mystery to lose the crowds and have the ruins to yourself - well worth it. Capri was jammed but worth the trip. Toured around the island on a private boat and swam in the Mediterranean.
FLORENCE - Ritz Hotel - great a/c but undergoing renovations - horrilbe breakfast - booked reservations for the Uffizi and our group of 30 walked in 15 minutes early - incredible museum. All the sights are great but the Bargello is only open in the morning and the Science Museum also has odd hours. Best gellato in Italy I found on the north bank of the Arno by Pnte Vecchio.
TUSCANY - Assisi is great; Book early to climb the tower in Siena: the Duomo is incredible; San Gimgiano has a great torture museum by students loved and the Great tower to climb. Weather was perfect.
VENICE - mobbed - the canal is wonderful but walk away from Saint Mark's to leave the crowds - Very busy - stayed in Relais Monaco - nice spa one hour to the north of Venice to relax a couple of days but over an hour drive to the highway.
Pickpockets and thieves are out in force (3 different ones approached us but we saw them and they left). Only the Florence Duomo had gypsies annoying people. The Plaza Hotel in Sorrento has thieves.
I do not know about Rick Steve's tours but I hated CHA. Overpriced and incompetent they put us in the lousier hotels or out in the middle of no where (see tourist scam headings). Italy and the Italians are great so why not do it on your own?
marc <email>
Greenwich, CT USA Sat 07/31/2004
Heaven in Tuscany!
First, many thanks for all the effort that goes into making your guides so clear and helpful. We have just returned from a 4 week tour of Tuscany, Venice and Rome - a lot of tourists, but everything is so interesting and romantic.
We found a new B&B in Tuscany and it was absolutely perfect. The setting, the level of comfort, attention to detail and the general hospitality gave it an edge over other (very nice) places we had stayed. The Beds were the most comfortable and we had 4 real pillows! Even breakfast with fresh squeezed oranges and EGGS!, was a rare treat. The place is called Casa Portagioia (www.tuscanbreaks.com)in Castiglion Fiorentino and we used this as our base for 5 nights whilst touring Cortona, Montepulciano, Siena and, wonderful day in Florence.
The hosts (one Englissh and the other Italian) were truly helpful and, entertaining! They helped us with restaurants and site seeing - including a day out in Florence which we did by train. THey made reservations for the main galleries (it was a dream of mine to see Michaelangelo's David), and the fact we didn't have to queue for hours made all the difference.
The dinners at Casa Portagioia were grat fun. Lots of interesting guests and beautiful food and wine - the best we had! Has anyone heard of Caffe affogato? A new way to enjoy Italian gellato. The hosts made sure that everyone knew each other and after the first aperitif and a few wise cracks from the host, the ice was broken and we had a very memorable evening:
Mozzarella, Pomodoro e Pesto, Angel’s Hair with Prawns and garlic, Monkfish wrapped in Parma Ham, Cheeses and Desert!
The valley is known by locals as the valley of God, and sitting on the sun deck by their heated pool, looking out to the valley and some small Tuscan villages in the hills, it didn't take long to agree.
We will be back in a year or 2!
James and Jean <email>
Bellevue, WA USA Fri 07/30/2004
Pompeii - Don't
Pompeii- Don't bother during high tourist season. I have been to Pompeii 3 times. The first two during Feb. This past trip to Italy I went with friends who had never been. It was awful. The Teatro, the place I remember for it grand acoustics, had plastic chairs and plywood. Most of the houses that the audioguide offered information about are blocked off. And the sense of profound stillness that I experienced was overwhelmed by the combined chatter of cell phones and umbrella guided groups. Go to erculanium or the National Musuem in Napoli. Stay in Sorrento.
Unless you are fluent in Italtian, Napoli, being the 3rd largest city in italy, is a bit rough on the American Tourist (imagine New York in the 70's) If you are going to do Pompeii, bring water and bring a flip book that is sold about every where except inside the park in English. The street vendors had more English than the Museo Store.
Laura Pennell <email>
Baltimore, Md USA Thu 07/29/2004
Europe - Money
There is now a forgery problem with the 50 Euro. Get to know the currency. Get someone to explain the anti-fraud features in it so you will not be fooled. This is more a problem with street vendors particularily in Southern Italy or any place frequented by the British.
Laura Pennell <email>
BALTIMORE, MD USA Thu 07/29/2004
Albergo Olivedo
I just wanted to add to what Sandy Leslie said a few posts back. The EXACT same thing happened to my family one week after you were there. We had a reservation for July 10,11 and when we showed up at Albergo Olivedo she said that our reservation was for the next two days. She didnt have rooms and made no apologies about it. She did find an apartment for us to stay at that was relatively cheap.
We did return for the second day an did like the rooms, but with the frequency of complaints about Laura and the Albergo Olivedo I do NOT recommend staying there. There are so many other beautiful places too stay in Varenna...
Paul
Fremont, CA USA Wed 07/28/2004
Italy comments
My husband Tom and I just returned from an unforgettably wonderful summer trip to Italy. Rick, your book made our transatlantic adventure as easy as having a good little angel perched on our shoulder--for that we are most thankful!
All, except Hotel Del Corso in Sorrento, were exceptional. At Del Corso, room and bathroom were very icky and owner ran my credit card for two nights when I told him we could only stay for one.
One restaurant I'd like to recommend, or rather rave about (not in the book) is family-style "Di Leva," also in Sorrento in the area of Marina Grande. We actually ate there three times! Tina, one of the five sisters who own it, was our unforgettable hostess and now friend. The hospitality the best we've ever had but the food was DELIZIOSISSIMA!
Dinorah Costa <email>
Chula Vista, CA USA Thu 07/22/2004
great hotels
As a famliy of 4, we loved the Italy guidebook and used it for everything. We even arrived in Vernazza (Cinque Terre) at about 4pm with no hotel. Stood at the pay phone & went through the list in this book. About the 8th call (we were starting to get worried) we found a delightful room at Nicolina with a view of the beach & the nicest people running the place! They even trusted us to find them the following morning at their restaurant to pay!
Same with Venice... called the day before we arrived and found Pensione Guerrato to have a quad room in a great location. And the owners were the most wonderful, relaxed, cheerful, helpful hotel hosts in all of Italy we think!
We went to London, France, Italy & Germany, and everywhere we found Americans and I'm not exaggerating when I say 99 percent of them had a blue Rick Steves book with them. These books are fantastic!
In London & Paris, we literally ripped out the section for where we were sightseeing that day & I carried in my pocket for quick reference. When we go back, the book will be outdated anyway & I'll buy a new one. Ripping out pages kept me from having to lug the whole thing around all day.
Rhonda Darnell
Roseville, CA USA Thu 07/22/2004
The South
We just returned from 2 weeks in Italy traveling as a family with 3 teenage boys. Rick’s books were invaluable as usual. The biggest mistakes I‘ve made in European travel have come from not reading Rick closely enough.
Paestum was worth getting to but Hotel delle Rose was disappointing. This place was not busy and I suggest driving a hard bargain with this guy if you are making reservations. Instead of negotiating a cash discount if he wanted cash the proprietor insisted that his credit card machine just broke. An “American Bar” with loud music across the street kept us up until the wee hours and it was too hot to close the windows with no a/c. We could really have used a place with a/c here, but none of Rick’s listings have it. There appear to be a bunch of hotels by the beach, but it would be quite a way to walk. Also I suggest taking the train in and out from Salerno as the bus ride was quite long.
In Sorrento Osteria Gatto Nero seems no longer to exist. Pizzeria Aurora was a fun place to eat, and for a family on a budget it’s great porta via prices made picnicking from the supermercato unnecessary.
In Naples Antica Pizzeria was a wonderful experience with great pizza and it also is air conditioned.
In the Dolomites Tirler Hof was great, and my sons' favorite place we stayed. Their wonderful dog (big St. Bernard) followed us on walks. You can drive into Alpe di Siusi even if you are not staying in one of their hotels if you arrive early enough(try before 9:15), they give out a limited # of parking permits.
bert fink <email>
Swarthmore, PA USA Thu 07/22/2004
Cinque Terre
CT late June.
Stayed in Vernazza. LOVED IT .
TIP :Take the time to hike some of the RIDGE trails high above those that run directly from one town to another .
Trail number 1 from the right of the church in Camiglia (take a bus there) to portovenere was the highlight . Twice as high as the highest town trails and NOBODY on it . Take a cheap bus to la spezia and the train back to whatever CT town you are staying in .
Dennis & Susan <email>
Baltimore, MD USA Thu 07/22/2004
Us in Cortona July 6-8, 2004
We absolutely loved Cortona! We rented a car in Rome and got on the A1 and drove north. It only took us an hour to figure out how to exit Rome. The countryside is gorgeous. Even though we were driving at 150kilometers per hour we were getting passed. Stay on the right if you do not plan on passing or dying! We stayed at the San Luca on Rick's recomendation and loved it! We has a terrace and view of the Tuscan countryside below. The room was good size but had lots of mosquitos and the last day of our stay we had brown water coming out of our pipes and could not shower. The hotel said it was a city problem and that is all they would say. It was only 100e a night and everything else was fine so it did not ruin our trip. We ate 3 times at the highly recommended La Locanda nel Loggiato. It is situated on a high street that overlooks the piazza below and the clock tower. It is fun to watch everyone below sitting on the steps eating the gelatos from Snoopy's. The food is to die for though! I had Bistecca with Black Truffles and it melted in my mouth. I loved the simple bruschetta. Very fresh! Limoncello after the meal makes it perfect. The other restraunt was closed for holday, I think it was called the Grotto. The town is so tiny and cute and fun to hike up some of the steep streets to see what is at the top.
We also drove to Montalcino and bought some Brunellos and then to Montelpulciano for the Vino Nobile. It was a long day but worth the drive and worth the wine! The '97 year is the best one to buy for both wines. We stoped at L. Trasimieno and went for a dip and discovered the water is HOT! Not sure why.
Mark & Tracy <email>
Costa Mesa, Ca USA Tue 07/20/2004
Italian Time
We encountered two excuses for unscheduled closings not mentioned by Rick. It would be fun it others would contribute to this list.
Here are our two:
1. Pompeii was closed for two hours each of four consecutive mornings for "staff meetings."
2. The Santa Croce Church in Florence was closed for a national soccer game. God forbid that the staff has to come to work instead of stay home and watch soccer on TV.
Steve <email>
Cupertino, CA USA Sun 07/18/2004
Donations to Churches
Many churches have donation boxes. If you are the type of person who regularly drops money in such boxes, consider using American currency. Let the Europeans know the nationality of who is making the donations. In one church, the money went into a large box with clear plastic sides. It had dozens of American bills ($5s, $10s and $20s) and Euro coins. There were scant Euro bills. It made a dramatic statement: it is the Americans who are making the bulk of the donations.
Steve <email>
Cupertino, CA USA Sun 07/18/2004
Travel Books
We bought Rick's books on Italy, Venice, Florence and Rome. The city books are well worth the cost! Their museum and walking guides were invaluable. We tossed the city books after we finished seeing each city, lightening our load until we filled the space with trinkets.
I bought the Michelin green book. It came home in near pristine condition. The book has nice color maps and describes the major attractions of the cities. The listings are alphabetical instead of geographical. The leaves it to the traveler to figure out the sequence of how to see the sights. There is scant information on local travel, special museum passes, ways to avoid long lines, laundry locations and the other tidbits Rick offers. Importantly, Rick lays out a logical path of discovery that is worth its weight in gold.
Steve <email>
Cupertino, CA USA Sun 07/18/2004
Security: Money & Passports
I read on other postings that if one has a copy of their passport, then getting a replacement at an embassy is a two to three hour stint. But what if both the passport and hard copy are stolen? No problem if you email a scanned passport image to your personal email account as an attachment. All you need is a PC connected to the Internet and a color printer to generate a new copy. You might want to do the same for the airline tickets.
I was very satisfied with the Eagle Creek UnderCover Hidden Pocket. The type of money belt that fits around the waist did not work with my anatomy. Instead, I used the Hidden Pocket for cash and some ATM/credit cards and the Eagle Creek UnderCover Security Wallet to store the passports, airline tickets, cash and other ATM/credit cards. Each was attached to my pants belt, and hung inside my pants behind each of the front pockets. There is a natural hollow in the hip area behind pants pockets that these money belts fit into. My wife used the Rick Steves Essential Silk Moneybelt, as it worked with her anatomy.
Steve <email>
Cupertino, CA USA Sun 07/18/2004
Travel and Transportation
Here are two good web sites for Internet road maps and directions: viamichelin.com mappy.com Map Easy (mapeasy.com) makes nice city maps of Rome, Florence and Venice (and other European cities) on tear resistant paper. I bought them on Amazon. Michelin publishes excellent country and regional (sub-country) road maps. They are a must if you are planning to drive. I bought mine at from Travel Essentials (travelgearnow.com).
I used a small compass-thermometer attached to my backpack. It saved me from walking in the wrong direction more than once as I lost bearings on east-west and north-south on the maze of angled streets. The Rick Steves Key Ring Compass or similar ones sold by REI (rei.com) are a recommended accessory.
Steve <email>
Cupertino, CA USA Sun 07/18/2004
Sore Feet
We were unprepared for the sore feet we got from museum hopping. Indeed, the discomfort dampened our enjoyment of the art by the afternoons. We had comfortable shoes, but our feet were not accustomed to the all-day standing. There are darn few chairs in the museums and palaces. Cabs are a good investment between museums. Scheduling non-museum days helps the feet recover. My wife needed the moleskin we brought.
Steve <email>
Cupertino, CA USA Sun 07/18/2004
Money Tips
Money
ATMs are everywhere, and they all seem to be wired into the US ATM networks like Cirrus and Plus. I never spent more than five minutes looking for one. We never had a card rejected.
We used five different checking accounts, and were never allowed to withdraw more than E250. The choices on withdrawals are preset to be in E50 increments up to E250.
Italy is a cash economy, and we used it a lot. We only used credit cards for train tickets, some hotels and a few museum admissions. One hotel took cash only and another gave a ten percent break for cash instead of credit card. Some museums (like the Vatican) take cash only. Do not be shocked to find you visit an ATM almost every day. We made 12 visits in 18 days. Three of us averaged US$215 per day in cash, and we ate in low scale restaurants. Lunch and dinner averaged, together, about E70 to E90 per day for three of us. Make sure your checking account(s) have enough reserves before you leave on vacation.
Italian merchants have a hang up with making change. One shop in Murano rejected a E10 bill for a E2.50 purchase, for example. Lesson: practice hoarding small change and small bills. Use museums to break the E50s dispensed by the ATMs. Become adept at paying in exact change. I used a film canister to hold the Euro coins.
Receipt envelope. I used a 9x12 envelope to store our hotel/store/restaurant receipts, museum passes, ATM receipts, train tickets, etc. The admission tickets and transportation tickets will go in a scrapbook and the others will be used to validate credit card purchases and ATM withdrawals. There were at least 100 items in this envelope after 18 days.
Steve <email>
Cupertino, CA USA Sun 07/18/2004
Riomaggiore and Stresa
Cinque Terre - I had been to CT 4 years ago and stayed in Vernazza, so at first it was a disappointment when I found it so hard to get a room there in advance for our trip this year (and since we were going to be there for a summer in July, I really wanted advance confirmation. Instead, we booked our room in Riomaggiore through Mar Mar rooms. We were so glad we did! Our room was wonderful, with a terrace - big enough for a table and chairs - with a beautiful view that was perfect for lunch picnics. The people at Mar Mar, Amy in particular, were great to us as well, and our room was competitively priced at 60E. Not only that, but Riomaggiore is awesome. When we visited Vernazza, I was amazed at how much more crowded and touristy it felt than it had before, and were glad to be in Riomaggiore, which felt more like a local community to us.
Stresa was another highlight, and definitely a good place to recover from jet lag. Be sure to reserve a seat on the bus from the airport, though, as reservations are required both ways (even though the book only says they're required to the airport). Our hotel did this for us, which was great. We stayed our first day and night there, then did the 3-hr tour of Milan the next way on the way to Venice. Although the town is a resort, it is absolutely beautiful, and filled more w/European tourists than Americans. Osteria degli Amici had fabulous service and food, and Hotel Primavera was charming.
Lydia
Hillsboro, OR USA Sun 07/18/2004
sights in N. Italy
random thoughts - **if you visit the Cinque Terre try to do so on a non-weekend, or you'll run into hordes of local daytrippers. I suppose this is the case in all tourist sites in Italy but probably more so there than elsewhere. **the Correr Museum in Venice is boring, and not worth its rating. The Guggenheim and the Frari church are great, on the other hand. **Albergo Bernini in Siena is exactly as Rick describes it, and he's definitely correct when he urges you to stay a night. Great fun. **There are two lines at the Accademia in Florence, one labeled "Reservations" and one labeled "No reservations". Both are fairly long. But if you've reserved by phone, you don't need to stand in *either* line - just go a few minutes before your appointment to the staff at the door and tell them that you have a reservation for that time and they'll let you in to pick up your ticket (or you could pick up your ticket at the Precious Stones museum and show it to them, which might be safer). One word of warning, I reserved a 4:15 time at the Uffizi and the 15 minute window turned out to be 4-4:15, while I reserved a 10 o'clock time at the Accademia and it was 10-10:15. So it's a bit random.
Steve
Chicago, IL USA Thu 07/15/2004
Alla Madonna del Piatto
Alla Madonna del Piatto was perfect for my family and me. My husband and our three children (ages 25,18,13) had lovely rooms which were part of the original structure of the building (a 500 year old stable) Letizia and her husband Ruurd are the owners of this lovely farmhouse. They have completely refurbished their home and the rooms that we occupied were very comfortable. Each had a beautiful private bath as well. The views from our rooms were breathtaking. Letizia says that she feels that her mountain is magical and I believe she is right. One morning after our homemade breakfast (the coffee, breads and jams were fabulous), we all sat under the pergola and watched a farmer herd his sheep through the countryside below. The distant tinkling of the sheep's bells was positively hypnotic. One mile down the road was a beautiful pool that our family used that afternoon for a small fee. We all agree that our stay at Letizia and Rauud's farmhouse was definitely one of the highlights of our two week trip to Italy. We are still talking about Letizia's jams! I highly recommend Alla Madonna del Piatto to anyone who wants to relax and enjoy the magnificent views of the Umbrian countryside. Their web site is: www.incampagna.com
Kate Purzycki <email>
Mullica Hill, NJ USA Thu 07/15/2004
Albergo Varenna
I made a reservation for two nights in Varenna, July 3rd and 4th at Albergo Olivedo per your book. Upon arrival, the woman told me my reservation was for the second night only. I showed her my e-mail confirmation. She agreed it was her mistake but was totally unapologetic, said there was no room for that night and treated me like I was a door to door salesman she couldn't wait to get rid of! She made two calls to two different hotels to try to find us a place but to no avail. We said we would figure it out ourselves. Then she wanted to know if we wanted the room still for the second night. I said no thanks and promptly left. Her attitude seemed like she didn't care at all.
Sandy Leslie <email>
Rolling Hills Estates, CA USA Sun 07/11/2004
Francamaria Rooms
We stayed at Francamaria Rooms in Vernazza , 5 terre , this angle of paradise.The room in which we stayed was absolutely amazing , with his own bath and shower,and a view on all the town and the harbour,plus the ocean.Francamaria was very kind with us,she provided extra beach towels for us with pleasure and some extra bed linens for our 2years old baby.The most important thing I saw in the room was the perfect cleaning!Their reception is situated in the main place,just show up the check-in day with your reservation sheet in hands.Remember to reserve a room some months before,Francamaria told me that they're very busy and having a lot of guests and people asking for rooms by email. Thank you Rick !!!!
Albert Rockford
Des Moines, USA Sun 07/11/2004
Albergo Olivedo not honoring reservations
I had the same problem - confirmed reservation for June, and then an email canceling due to "unforeseen circumstances". Since I couldn't find an equivalently priced room in Varenna (and the place Olivedo suggested didn't answer my email) I went to Stresa instead (Albergo Luina). Touristy, yes, but the Isola Madre on a misty day with the peacocks in mating plumage was magic. I also did the three-stop trip to Locarno - great train ride, and I had the medieval castle in Locarno all to myself.
Kathy Wilhelm <email>
Cary, NC USA Thu 07/08/2004
Alimandi Hotel in Rome
My family and I (4 altogether) had a very nice stay at the Alimandi Hotel (in Rick's book) in Rome. It is very close to the Vatican Museum. We needed to be in that area 3 different days of our trip. It is a beautiful hotel with an excellent breakfast buffet. It is close to a small grocery store where we picked up the fixings for lunch (7 Euros). They were very helpful in giving directions and advice. They had free internet usage downstairs, a lift, air conditioning, and useful maps. This was the most expensive hotel we stayed at on our 3 week trip...but it was worth it. Will stay there again. We went to the Vatican Museum in the afternoon and had no lines or waits. At 8:30 am the lines were around the block and down the street. Took train to Ostio Antica did not have the ear phone tour available. It is a very large area. Used Rick's guide to it to keep it short. Took tours of Roman Ruins and Illuminated Rome. Both informative. They picked us up at our hotel which was very nice. Taxi from the train station to the hotel, 4 people, 4 pieces of luggage...30 Euros.
Cindy
Bakersfield, ca USA Thu 07/08/2004
Lodging in Vernazza
We stayed at Mike and Franca Castiglione's Affita Camere (private room) in Vernazza in the middle of May'04. We called them 2 months ahead of our arrival after having gone to their website. On the website it said they had a 2 room studio apartment with kitchen, balcony, view etc. It showed a picture. We called 2 times and said we saw the website and would like to reserve the studio.We mentioned Rick's book. We offered money to reserve it but were told just to call a few days before our arrival. This I did and Mike said he had our names and dates and just to show up. When we arrived, we were shown a 1 room studio with a view, no balcony and a small kitchen. We asked about the other place and were told that this was all they had. When we asked about how to use the stove etc. Mike told us the stove was not working and he gave us several flimsy reasons. Mind you Mike is a US citizen, although born in Vernazza, and his English is very good. I then asked for a reduction on the rate and after being very nasty Mike said he would take 5 E off the nightly fee. He then told us that it would be fine with him if we wanted to look for another place. I responded by telling him we were staying here because we had not booked 2 months ahead so we could go wandering around looking for another accomodation. After getting some lunch we came back to the room and Mike came in telling us now the stove was working and we could cook. Of course the rate went back up. During our wanderings we did find a sign for the apartment that was shown in the website; since it was occupied, we never went in.
Mike does not have a New York attitude. He has a bad attitude. He is nasty. The good thing is we had a kitchen and this place is probably one of the few that do. The price is reasonable. The bad thing is that the advertising is false and Mike's mannner despicable. The room was not clean and the shower hardly worked. We spent 3 weeks in Italy and this was the only place that we encountered difficulties. I wouldn't blame it on New York.
Karen Kubrin <email>
Sebastopol, CA USA Thu 07/08/2004
Re: Albergo Olivedo not honoring reservations
I made reservations at Albergo Olivedo over 2 months ago and found Varenna the toughest reservation to make for my upcoming trip. I faxed my credit card information to confirm and received e-mail confirmation that everything was good. I've even swapped a couple of additional notes with Laura since then to discuss the parking situation (I was considering driving). Last week, I received a note that they had canceled my reservation (a large group apparently need another room so they bounced me). At least I didn't find out about this when I arrived and I was able to find something else. It's a little disconcerting that a reservation can be discarded that easily. Might as well not have a reservation at all.
Jeff Cairns <email>
Lafayette, CA USA Thu 07/08/2004
lodging in Italy
Cinque Terre: Stayed at the Hotel Villa Steno in Monterosso June 19 and 20 and hiked from Riomaggiore to Monterosso on June 20. I found the hike to be pretty tough, especially from Corniglia to Monterosso, but very worth it. I loved the Hotel Villa Steno. Our quad room was spacious and the bathroom had both a tub and shower. The lovely balcony had views of the hills and sea. The on-site laundry was a blessed convenience. Rick says Monterosso is the most touristy of the five towns, but the day we visited them all, Vernazza was the one jammed with tourists and I was very glad I was staying in Monterosso instead.
Como - stayed at the Hotel Metropole & Suisse right on Lake Como. Our top floor room had a view of the lake that was stunning. Como was a lovely city and was a good base for visiting Milan on a day trip (35 min. by train) and also Lake Como.
Nancy Watson <email>
Salt Lake City, UT USA Mon 07/05/2004
Trekking in Cinque Terre
I had the most wonderful time hiking in Cinque Terre. I stayed for 4 nights, stayed all of them in the Hostel in Manarola. Excellent trails, including the trail to Portovenere which I highly recommend. I got a chance to meet Mr. Steves myself in Vernazza. I highly recommend the Hostel. Its clean, well run and a lot of fun people from different age groups.
Renato Rosete, Jr. <email>
Helmetta, NJ USA Sun 07/04/2004
Cooking in Tuscany
If you love to cook and want to learn to make fresh pasta in a beautiful old home in Tuscany, please check out Accidental Tourist (website online, also in Rick's book). We spent the morning at the Grignano winery learning about and tasting their wines and olive oil. The afternoon was spent at the home of Christiana and Gianni where we (a group of 4 w/ 2 guides) learned to make fresh ravioli w/ spinach & ricotta and another type of pasta. Kneading the dough. Mixing ingredients. Sipping Chianti. Sunshine. Air. Great company. I can't cook very well at all, but this was fun and you eat the fruits of your labor.
Afterwards, we sat around their huge kitchen table enjoying a start of frittata, bruschetta, and bread. Then, we ate our pasta in fresh pesto and a meat sauce. Finished with strawberries in creme fraiche. I recommend this experience without reserve. It was the best day in Italy!
Katrina <email>
Evanston, IL USA Sat 07/03/2004
Eating in Vernazza
Our dinner at Il Castello was probably the low point of our trip to the Cinque Terre. I forgot about it until I saw Kathy's posting. Our food (what we got at least) was great, but we had the worst waiter in Italy. Maybe he was sick of tourists, but for us (& most customers I assume), eating out at a beautiful expensive restaurant is not something we do very much. My 2 daughters work at restaurants so I tend to give the staff the benefit of the doubt. But I really don't know how this guy keeps his job.
The next night we ate at Il Piratta. The Sicilian brothers are goofy, the scenery was not spectacular, the food was not as exciting, but at least everybody seemed to be having fun. For memorable food & great scenery, we thoroughly enjoyed Gambero Rosso.
Karen Herreid <email>
Austin, MN USA Thu 07/01/2004
cinque terre june 2004
Just returned from 5 nights Lucca and highly recommend this as a base for Pisa and Florence (way too touristy and carnival like). Great bus connections and such a beautiful city. Followed Rick's guide for sightseeing and was perfect.
Cinque Terre of course was beautiful. Based in Monterosso. Visited all towns and would say avoid summer all together even June if you do not like crowds (at least during the day) In Monterosso Restaurant Belevedere very nice and Ciak for the seafood pasta is a must. Sit outside, inside too much like home.
In Vernazza sought out Castello for lunch. It was empty except for one other couple with lady clutching Rick Steves 2000 book. We both agreed staff so rude, food expensive and not particularly good and on a very nice sunny day all the plastic down so could not see anything. Not sure if there was another one and we got to the wrong one but this one is to be avoided. It was as the guide says...overhanging the harbor...anyway Great trip.
kathy <email>
edina, mn USA Thu 07/01/2004
What to Avoid in Milan
Just returned from two wonderful weeks in Italy. All good...except... In Milan we stayed at Antica Locanda dei Mercati. Very nice, if a bit pricey. Cost was heightend by 1.) bottles of water graciously delvered to room were billed to us at a relatively high rate and 2.) breakfast served to room was nice but costly vs. wandering into any nearby cafe.
ALSO, right next to the hotel is Vecchi Napoli Pizzaria. DON'T PATRONIZE this place. The predatory mamma running it was rude and applied an $8 Euro cover charge to our bill. Clearly she does not welcome tourists to her establishment.
B.J.
Apple Valley, MN USA Wed 06/30/2004
Cinque Terre
Vernazza is much harder to book than expected from the guidebook. After Trattoria Gianni did not respond to my emails (in Italian), I started looking in early April for a Thursday and Friday in late May. Most rooms in Rick's guide were booked. I used websites for the Cinque Terre with some luck.
We got a room with Franca Maria for a night. She was wonderful. The room without a view was E80 but clean and comfortable. It was nice seeing the details on the website prior to booking. She was also helpful by allowing us to store our luggage while we were on the trail the next day before moving to another room we booked for the second night in Vernazza.
We called to confirm with Andrea of Il Giardino (not in Rick's book and here's why) at 11:00am that we were starting the trail in Riomaggiore and hoped to be back in Vernazza at 2:00pm. He said no problem, I told him where I stored the luggage and he gave directions to his accomodations which you can see from the trail. The last section of the trail we walked from Corniglia to Vernazza was longer and tougher than we expected and I hurt my ankle which made the steps on the trail difficult. We tried to find Il Giardino from the trail to check in. We arrived in the town square of Vernazza around 3:30pm, but could not reach Andrea by phone. We picked up our bags from FrancaMaria and tried to find his rooms again with no luck. Finally I got thru to his cell phone at 4:00pm when he told me he gave away the room because we were late.
I knew there were no other rooms available in Vernazza since we met many people the night before unable to find rooms. I began crying. I was hurt, dirty and tired. FrancaMaria was walking thru the town and saw me and wanted to know what was wrong. She said she would try to help us. She took our bags and told us to rest and get something to eat. She found us a room in LaSpezia, the Hotel Venezia, the nearest thing available. She was very nice to us and I would trust her.
The moral of the story is book way ahead for Vernazza, most people in the Rick Steve's book are there for a reason, and those NOT there are NOT there for a reason. Do not trust Andrea at Il Giardino, who was very nice by email and on the phone. If your train is a little late, or you are delayed on the trail, he will give away your room even if you just confirmed. Next time I will stay at a hotel in Monterosso etc, somewhere I can really confirm and dispute with a credit card, or with FrancaMaria, who is professional and caring (and responds promptly to emails).
Vernazza in May is also packed during the afternoon with schoolchildren on field trips, who also walk the trail. Not only are they noisy, but also rude and pushy, making it impossible to relax or get a snack or make a phone call when they are there.
Mary Ann <email>
Medfield, MA USA Tue 06/29/2004
Visiting Portofino
Planning a visit to Portofino? Seriously challege taking a car. Unless you are in one of the larger hotels blessed with parking it's a problem.The ONLY facility is the central Municipal at €19/ day. Anyway the roads very tight. Better bus from Rapallo or Santa Margerhita OR the hourly ferries that ply up and down the coast. Brilliant! However - perservere. It aint cheap but boy is it worth it. It's the prettiest most romantic spot in all Italy! Give me a call if you want more detail.
Malcolm Owen <email>
Alderley Edge, Cheshire, UK, USA Tue 06/29/2004
italy
not to gush but rick's guidebooks was the best. especially his suggestion to reserve in advance museum tickets. before we left we made reservations for the accademia, uffizi and borghese gallery. what a smart thing to do. when we arrived at the accademia the line was wrapped around the building. we walked up to the ticket window, showed our confirmation number- got our tickets and walked right in !! it was cultural week in italy- the museums was free, all we paid for was the reservation fee-it was great !! same with the uffizi and the borghese-walked past the lines paid the reservation fee and went right in.
but i'm getting a little ahead of myself-to continue our journey-we caught the overnight train from vienna to venice-venice was a dream come true-everything you read about doesn't even come close to the actual-
we stayed at hotel guerrato which served a great breakfast-it is old venetian charm. we had a family room for five and paid E180 for one night-a bargain considering it was a few steps away from the rialto bridge and next to the open markets. should have stayed at least another night-
then on to florence-if it wasn't for the museums i would have considered it a total waste of time- it was noisy (vespas, taxis etc) and dirty-we stayed in an apartment near the train station-florentia apartments- one bedroom,with kitchen and washing machine-the only place we stayed that had a lift. it was convenient because it had a coin-laundry with internet right below it. paid E140 per night-
on to rome-rome was great- i guess its a bigger city so it can absorb the crowds and noise better than florence. stayed in a 2 bedroom 2 bath apartment w/kitchen and washing machine-huge apartment called casa andree-paid per person E33 per night-great location (near the pantheon)-but no lift and lots of stairs-
then it was on to cinque terre (vernazza)- rented rooms from martina callo-great location right on piazza marconi- we had two rooms- one up about 60 narrow stairs-awesome views of the castello-paid E90 for a triple room w/view and E55 double room w/o view-i agree with rick in that vernazza has the most charm- the next town that i liked would be riomaggiore- oh and you have to try the sciacchetra- (sweet wine) it is so smoooth-should have brought home a case !! we did some hikes but mostly just relaxed-late start mornings and just sitting and petting cats (vernazza is filled with cats)
then it was on to uggiate to meet with my sisters friends-they picked us up in como-then a hike up to the lighthouse with awesome views of the lake-the friends in uggiate are amazing-they took us everywhere with very little english spoken we managed to understand each other and to make lifelong friendships- we lived like the locals for four days-every night dinner with over 30 friends- we sampled a slice of itallian life- a highlight was stresa- isola bella is so beautiful- the gardens are pyramid style so you have a glorious view of lake maggiore-
can't cover all the details- but i believe our trip was succesful due to all the pre-planning we did- especially the train-we had no trouble-made every connection-did not get on the wrong train (my biggest fear) and wonder of wonders no strikes or delays. all in all a great success for our first trip to europe !!
alyshia garcia <email>
waianae, hi USA Sun 06/27/2004
Rick Steves
Susan: No, and what is more, I am so retired I couldn't BE hired. Too busy traveling. And yes, with Rick's books under my arm.
Charles M. Luther <email>
Katy, TX USA Fri 06/25/2004
italy
Re: CHARLES LUTHER'S Post: Are you on Rick's payroll?
susan russell <email>
san francisco, ca USA Fri 06/25/2004
Rick's Material Made our trip...
My wife and I just returned from two glorious weeks (3 June to 19 Jun) in Europe: one in Northern Italy (Nova Leventa and the Dolomites), and the last week in Innsbruck. We had prep'd for the trip with Rick's videos and his two travel books. Let me say, it was not money wasted...we had never been to Europe, and our anxiety was a bit relieved by our diligent pre-planning. However, then you get there...
We went with friends who had two time shares that we used as our "back door" base camps. BEWARE: some stateside time shares DO NOT translate into similiar accommodations in Europe( If you want "more facts", e-mail me). Anyway, we took numerous day trips. With no reservations, we went to Venezia(typical American pre-planning)...and thanks to Rick's guide, had no problem finding "last minute" accommodations. Rick's guides are great...but you need to hire me as your map maker (or find a cartographer worth a salt...the maps are great if you land at a train or bus station, not if you are driving to a town in a car).
I now have a very thorough set of maps and guides that can much more easily get me where I need to go...then I can use Rick's guides to hit the highlights.
A word on the "Rick Steve's Back Door" philosophy...I sincerely appreciated it. We drove the entire two weeks (oh, they drive no worse in Italy than they do here in Austin, TX...there are idiots everywhere!!),and literally "crammed" a life time of experiences into our trip. We were never bashful or uptight about stopping and having a glass of wine or a "dunkel" beer.
Because of the "back door", we met: new friends from Scotland at an open air restaunant in Venice; a high school friend of of wife's from Broken Arrow, Oklahoma, in a pub in the Dolomites, and when discovering our accommodations in Munich were never set for the last night, 'wandered' to Freising 10 km from the airport, got a great room for 65 Euro, and while having dinner in a Greek restrauant, met a lady who had just moved home(to Friesing)from San Francisco after 30 years.
Final observations: if you do not like motorcycles buzing around you, stay off the highways in the Dolomite region; if winding narrow mountain roads scare you, don't take a short-cut over the Passo del Menghan east of Trento headed back to Bolzano; if you want to see a city totally overlooked by Rick Steves, drive to Merano NW of Bolzano; need a place to stay in Lake Como, drive to Menaggio and be surprised; want to 'overniight' in Salsburg, go to Hotel Amadeus (where Rick will be headed this August according to Margot) and get a terrific breakfast plus be walking distance from the center of the Old Town. Finally, do see the Dachau Memorial site...because, as Americans, we need to never forget our complicity in the 30's of allowing that to happen in Europe.
We are going back next May or June...my daughter guides a group of college students to Rome each summer and we'll try to time it better; but I want Europe to be in my travel plans every year. Thanks again Rick Steves and staff!!!
Jack & Janet <email>
Buda, TX USA Fri 06/25/2004
Converted Skeptic
Upon the advice of a friend, my wife instructed me to purchase Rick Steves' books prior to our 3 week European trip, which we just concluded. Who the heck is Rick Steves' and why is he any more qualified than the next to write about travel experiences? There's a lot of folks who have done a lot in Europe. Not to mention that I had already purchased a guide or two and didn't want to spend money on a third. Of course, my wife won this battle, and if you think wives won't win--you guys are either kidding yourselves or not married. In any case...
I bought the Italy 2004 book. It was indispensable. We used the helpful maps to guide our tours around Roman sights. We used the phone numbers and locations for museum reservations, American Express Offices, and attraction hours. And by the way, after a crap recommendation from a hotel or two on where to eat, I gave Rick a shot at guiding us to a good meal. He went 4 for 4. I was amazed at the number of guidebooks around Italy. I kept on mentioning to my wife, "look they have the book"--they are ubiquitous in Florence.
So, it is with no hesitation that I say THANK YOU to Rick Steves. And you can be sure that I will both recommend and buy his books in the future. Nickian
Nickian <email>
Colorado, CO USA Fri 06/25/2004
Beautiful Northern Italy
We stayed in a little town called Uggiate Trevano in the province of Como. The people there are wonderful and so welcoming. All I can say is there is no place like Northern Italy. Surrounded by the Alps and touching Switzerland, with just one footstep it is possible to be in two countries at once. This was my second trip to Uggiate and I sincerely hope it will not be my last. If you visit the Como area, make sure you take the funicular up to the top of the mountain overlooking Lake Como. You will be treated to a beautiful view (once you hike up the rest of the mountain side to the lighthouse-and be prepared for a bit of a hike.)
Micina <email>
Waianae, HI USA Thu 06/24/2004
Franca Maria and Hotel Pasquale
I loved the Franca Maria in Vernazza, but it was expensive (95 Euros without breakfast) and spartan. I enjoyed looking out over the piazza and listening to the older Italian men talking beneath my window. The budget traveler could find a cheaper room up the hill.
I also stayed at the Hotel Pasquale in Monterrosso. The view from my room was breathtaking. Again, it was expensive (125 Euros cash with breakfast) and there were 81 steps between the front door and my room. Nevertheless, I had tears in my eyes when I checked out. I found the Cinque Terre to be a wonderful vacation destination, but there are probably better places for people on a tight budget. It seemed like one third of the tourists in Vernazza were American, but the ones I talked to seemed like nice people. I think that the lack of cars "keeps the riffraff out." One word of caution: I often travel with my elderly parents, and all the hills would make this a difficult vacation for them.
Karen Herreid <email>
Austin, MN USA Thu 06/24/2004
internet points
I was surprised at how few internet points I ran into in the larger cities...because this is the way so many people check in with others, it would be nice to include more of them in the books!
Lia
NY, NY USA Wed 06/23/2004
Hotel Speronari in Milan - COOL!
Hotel Speronari in Milan was perfect! I was looking for a clean/cheap place to stay -- it wasn't fancy, but the staff was incredibly friendly and the common bathroom was spotless! My room had a bidet and a sink for only 50 euro a night! My friend that lives in Milan was a bit skeptical at first, but was pleasantly surprised when I took him by the place. I would definitely stay there again -- and if you travel with the mindset that you are just in your hotel to sleep, this place is for you!
Lia
NY, NY USA Wed 06/23/2004
Italy
Just returned from 17 days in italy with my 2 sisters. Loved Il Gigante in Monterossa, Cinque terre, La Torronato in Sorrento and the unbelievable Residenza Cellini in Rome. Would never stay at Guilo Cesare again in Rapallo.
Rick is right!!!Be careful of Bus 64 in Rome, we didn't get picked but saw them doing "it". and in Naples, hold on to everything. Great trip. Between rick steves and Frommer, I had it all arranged and saved time, money and had a great time. we drove from Nice to florence and "trained" to Sorrento and Rome.
Brenda M. Jones
Stone Mountain, `, Ga USA Tue 06/22/2004
Santa Margherita Ligure, Italy--Albergo Fasce
We spent two nights at Albergo Fasce in Santa Margherita Ligure, Italy, in May 2004. We would not recommend this hotel. Upon our arrival, we were told that due to an overbooking we would have a room with a private shower and loo down the hall and we could leave our personal items there. But others did use those facilities. When we checked out, after paying the bill so we would not appear to be trying to just downsize charges, we told the owner that the facilities in reality were not private. She vehemently denied that could happen. The overbooking and host's reaction were not in the Steves tradition of friendly people and good places to stay, many of which we have used and appreciated.
J. Johnston
West Des Moines, IA USA Tue 06/22/2004
Hotel Gritti in Milano & Cenacolo
We just wanted to say a few positive words about the Hotel Gritti in Milano. Our room was comfortable and in a great location for all of the main sights. While we considered the hotel perhaps a little Spartan (shower and toilet together in the same space) at the beginning of our trip, we now see that it was better than most. The staff was very helpful and pleasant. We'd return and would recommend it to others.
Incidently, we went to the Cenacolo(Last Supper) without reservations with the hopes of a "miracle" happening to allow us to get in (the Tourist Information center told us that it was reserved/full for another two weeks in advance). Wow!!! Not only were we allowed in, but it was a "free" day...no charge. So give it a try, you may get lucky! We found the "Trattoria Pizzeria Acciugineta" (sp?)mentioned in Rick's book to be a great place to eat. We had the spaghetti con pomodoro e basilico and the spicy pennete arrabiata. Yummmmmmm!
Michael
Bellingham, WA, U.S.A., USA Sat 06/19/2004
Pensione Bretagna Hotel in Florence
I just returned from a great trip to France and Italy and Rick Steves was very right on most of the time, however, have to agree with recent writer re: Pensione Bretagna in Florence. Yes, it was dirty, rooms dusty and did not seem clean, my room was no bigger than a shoebox, reception staff not too helpful-would not stay there again and agree it should be removed from Rick Steve's recommendations. The shower leaked on to the floor each time I used it and I had to use a towel to wipe the floor after, and staff did not replace the towels I had used to mop up-towels were not changed the whole 3 nights I was there. Not a nice place. Other than that, I love Rick Steve's recommendations. thank you, A. Kerr, Honolulu, Hi. 6/16/04.
Anna Kerr <email>
honolulu, hi USA Wed 06/16/2004
Rome, Florence, Venice, Orvieto
My daughter and I just returned from 10 days visiting Rome, Florence, Venice and Orvieto using Rick's 2004 book. I booked all of our hotels based solely on his recommendations, and each one was perfect for our needs, considering convenience to sights,cleanliness, and affordability. Sr. Brandao and Aro at Hotel Adler were lovely; room very small but sweet roof deck for breakfast. Hotel Nardizzi's room much more expansive and staff very helpful; again so easy to get out and about near the main street. We especially enjoyed the hop-on, hop-off bus which made its way to sites such as the Colloseum and Vatican, and for 13 euros each (all day pass) it was well worth it to sit on the upper deck and enjoy the sun and beauty of Rome...
In Florence we stayed at Hotel Maxim, which had a bit of a dormitory feel but the lobby was lovely (4th floor)and the staff friendly. Again, super clean..
And a 492 step walk to the top of the Duomo is not to be missed...one of my favorite sites in Italy. (also,Osteria La Congrega best meal of trip). In Venice we found super-friendly Allessandro at Hotel Astoria, just around the corner from San Marco square. Favorite thing there was listening to the orchestras in the evening with a cool glass of wine served by handsome waiters in dress whites..Heaven on earth!play...simply magical. Orieto was a quick one night stop but beautiful; the view from top of the old town simply stunning, and Hotel Corso again a good find.
One day we hope to return; it was an amazing experience for novice travelers, and made easier with our great guide book. ciao! :)
Mary Loftus
boston, ma USA Wed 06/09/2004
Bellagio
Hi, we stayed at Hotel Suisse in Bellagio. The minute we checked in, I wanted to check out, but my husband said it was fine. The next morning he was first to say, let's check out. The room SMELLED and the shower was itty-bitty. It was either freezing or too hot to stand under the spray. We asked to change rooms, we explained that the shower did not work. They acted like they did not understand us, and said it was impossible to change rooms, even though we had seen others check out.
We found another hotel, Hotel Splendide. We got a room overlooking the lake, and it was 30 Euros more. You get what you pay for! We were warmly greeted there, and Goliath helps man the front desk (a white Bischon dog). We went back and checked out of the Hotel Suisse, and they did not act surprised that we were leaving. I feel that they already knew that the shower did not work. I would not stay there again, and do not recommend it at all.
We had two great food there, one was at LaPunta, which has a great view. You can save your money for jewelry in Florence, or you can visit Rosemaria at Gold Crown in Bellagio. What a delightful lady. I think her prices are very fair, if not better than in Florence. She has a small store, but will bring out rolls of necklaces, bracelets, whatever your heart desires! I would go back to Bellagio just to visit her again.
Kathy
Santa Clara, CA USA Tue 06/08/2004
Thanks Rick!!
Take Rick's advice while in Tuscany! We spent 6 nights in Florence and 3 in Venice last month. Used Rick's Italy 2004 book extensively. Stayed at Torre Guelfa (near Ponte Vecchio)in Florence and the Hotel Campiello (near the Bridge of Sighs) in Venice (both in the book). Highly, highly, recommend these little places! Fair prices and very nice rooms. The staff at both were so helpful and accomodating. Also a great little restaurent (our favorite) sits just across the street and down a couple doors from Torre Guelfa.....try the Lasagna!!!! Have been to many parts of the world but the Tuscany reagion of Italy was the best by far....and the food was to die for. The Italians were very warm and friendly too. Again....use Rick's guide book...for good tips on where to stay, eat, and what to see and mostly....how to see it. We'll be back!! Thanks Rick!!!
Fred & Cathy
San DIego, Ca USA Tue 06/08/2004
Car Rental & Hotel in Genova
After reading here about car rental problems in La Spezia, we decided to go instead to Genova from Cinque Terre, as we were eventually flying home from there. Worked great! There's a half-hourly bus from the station to the airport for 3 euros and lots of choice of rental companies, open til 4 even on Saturday. After a week, we returned the car and took the bus back to the center to stay at the Hotel Balbi for the night (one block from the station.)It too was a good deal. An old palazzo, it has unbelievable painted ceilings with cherubs and scroll work in 5 of the rooms! Breakfast not bad, owners speak good English and recommended good local dinner spots. Next morning an easy bus ride to the airport again.
Sally
Pullman, wa USA Tue 06/08/2004
La Torretta
We stayed in La Torretta's "student apartment" May 21-24. I think another gentleman owns and runs this apartment and just advertise's through La Toretta. It was located just across the square from where the La Toretta rooms are. We paid 60 euros per night, pretty good considering it was an apartment (small kicthen, sitting area, bedroom). It actually can sleep 4, there is a pull out bed in the sitting room in addition to the double in the bedroom. The apartment was clean and very cute. The hike up the hill to La Toretta is difficult !!! (Even for a 24 year old who goes to the gym 3x per week !). I'm not sure if I would stay in Manarola again considering the steep climb up the hill everyday. But the town is beautiful and we loved it!!!
Make sure you carry a train schedule with you. The trains didn't run as often as I thought.
Kelly
USA Tue 06/08/2004
Cinque Terre
Loved our time here. Stayed at the Hotel Baia in Monterosso which was convenient, had nice rooms and was right on the beach, a short level walk from the train station (no train noise at the hotel). The Senora at the enoteca next to the hotel was very helpful, speaks fluent English and had good prices. She recommended a great red wine for 5 euros a bottle.
Followed the lower CT trail as Rick suggested and the sights were amazing between Monterosso and Corniglia. You could skip the section between Manarola and Riomaggiore, but I think Riomaggiore is interesting to see -less touristy and more of a real community atmosphere. Had good meals at Ristaurante Belvedere (misto mare is great) and Miky (what great presentation throughout the meal!) in Monterosso. Vernazza seems overwhelmed and perhaps ruined by the tourism. We were embarrassed by the behavior of some of the American college kids who are everywhere in the CT - loud, in-your-face behavior even when they weren't drunk and especially when they were. It's too bad.
Cathy
Longmeadow, MA USA Mon 06/07/2004
Rome, accommodations and tours
Rick, you book was a great help! One change from the 2004 book:the Cappuccin Crypt "Bone Church" was closed indefinitely on Dec. 23, 2003 for renovations. It was the only thing on our list of "to dos" that we couldn't do!
I highly recommend our accommodations: "Attico San Pietro". This is a bachelor type apartment near the Vatican, very clean and reasonable price. It includes a kitchette, and clothes washer, queen bed and bed-couch. Also very reasonable airport pickup. Check out "Roof St. Peter" at www.bedandbreakfastoliveri.com. Also highly recommended is "Romaround Tours" to Pompeii and Catacombs. Jennifer (from New Jersey), our guide was great. We found them near the Vatican. Small, personable tours. Their contact info is romaround_tours@hotmail.com
Nuala Power
Naperville, IL USA Mon 06/07/2004
Cinque Terre - Giuliano Basso
I came back from Italy in 2004 and had a wonderful trip, except for Cinque Terre. I booked a two night stay with Giuliano Basso, a recommended place to stay by Rick Steve's. I confirmed the night before with him and called him the day of arrival as well. He never showed up at the train station as he stated and we waited for him to show up for 6 hours. He never showed despite 30 calls to his phone number, visits to where he worked, etc. He is not a dependable person to use and can result in having a terrible Cinque Terre experience.
Eric Chan
Cambridge, MA USA Sun 06/06/2004
train to Vernazza
When travelling by train from LaSpezia to Vernazza, sit at least three cars from the back of the train. We "fell" into the last car after an afternoon of train connections, only to have the last car stopped in a tunnel in Vernazza. My husband ran the length of two cars, jumped out at the edge of the tunnel, only to have the train door slam shut leaving me and our three daughters on the train. Being enterprising travelers, we had a nice dinner on the beach in Monterosso, then caught a train back to Vernazza two hours later. Next time we're in the Cinque Terre we'll know better!
kay Myers
Rainbow, TX USA Sat 06/05/2004
Eating in Rome
Rick recommended The Osteria Ponte Sisto in the Trastevere area of Rome as a “rough and tumble little place”. My wife and I ate there and although the food was very good, the price for my meal was outlandish. The owner offered me the fish special that I accepted without asking the price. That was my fault. However, there was no attempt by the owner to tell me the price. The result? The highest priced meal we had during our seven-week stay in Italy and southern France.
Ken Dalton
Healdsburg, CA USA Sat 06/05/2004
Accommodations in Italy
We recently traveled in Italy and for most of our trip stayed at Rick Steves' recommended hotels. The Hotel Adler in Rome was very good. Although the rooms were small, they were very clean. The common areas were very nice, the patio was delightful, and the staff was friendly, helpful, and very accommodating. I would highly recommend this hotel.
In Orvieto we stayed at the Hotel Corso. This is a lovely hotel. It is attractive, clean, with large rooms in a good location. We were very pleased with this hotel and would recommend it highly to other travelers.
In Florence, we stayed at the Hotel Bretagna, another Rick Steves' recommended hotel. I would not recommend this hotel. The rooms were in a pretty shabby condition, as were the common spaces and did not seem particularily clean. All the bathroom plumbing leaked in our room and our travel companions said the same was true for there room. Additionally, when we returned to our room after sightseeing in the morning, we were surprised to find our room completely open and workmen using our room to access the roof to do repairs. No one had advised us that our room would be used by the workmen before we left the room and no attempt was made to secure our belongings in a safe location. Additionally, we were without the use of our room all day because it was being used by the workmen. Once they left,at 6:00 PM, no one checked on the room to see if it was left in a clean condition (which is was not). We did ask for a discount which was given to us but it was still an unpleasant situation. I would recommend removing this hotel from the list of recommended hotels. It does not live up to Rick Steves' standards.
Karen Humphrey
Plymouth, IN USA Fri 06/04/2004
Stay away from this hotel in Anacapri
After just returning from a weekend in Capri I have to warn travelers to avoid a specific hotel there - Il Girasole. Unfortunately the hotels in Anacapri recommended by Rick were booked and so we chose Il Girasole - big mistake. My husband and I have been living and traveling in Italy for the past 2 years and love the country, its traditions and people but unfortunately the owner of this hotel is the rudest person I have encountered since I have been here. The facilities at the hotel were far below what was promised and the location was less than ideal but we were willing to overlook that and enjoy our time on the island. Unfortunately our encounters with the owner at the Il Girasole were so upsetting it almost ruined our weekend. This is the first time I have ever complained about a hotel but I don't want other travelers to chose this hotel and have an unhappy experience.
Cath
Roma, Italy Fri 06/04/2004
Cinque Terre rooms
We stayed at Hotel Gianni in Vernazza. It was wonderful! WE didn't have reservations. We just went into town and started asking if anyone new of a place to stay with a room with a view. We looked at three seperate places and Hotel Gianni won hands down. Be prepared to climb about 100 stairs to get to it. It has a "secret" terrace that is a great place to drink wine, and eat olives and cheese. The view is fantastic! If you can't find anything in Vernazza try the other towns. We visited them and they seemed real nice.
We were in Italy for 12 days and the Cinque Terre was my favorite. Be sure and take colored film for that area and maybe even a panaramic camera. My favorite pictures came from the panaramic. Even if you don't get to stay in Vernazza be sure and go to the Sicilian's restaurant above the train station. I think it is called The Pirates. Anyway the breakfast pastries are delicious, the capacuino is wonderful and try the panacotti for dessert. It is like a custard. As the Silicans say about all their food, "it is fresh, not frozen."
How could I forget! My husband and I met Rick Steves in Vernazza. My husband ask if he could get a picture of me and Rick since Rick had basically been at our dinner table every night for the last three months. Rick was very polite and said he was honored. Thanks Rick for the picture and the great tips for travel in Italy! Someday we're going back.
Gay
victoria, TX USA Thu 06/03/2004
Caution in using the TI in Sienna
While traveling in Italy several weeks ago, we had the misfortune to resort to the TI in Sienna for booking a nights stay. Although the personnel seemed helpful at the time, we discovered when we checked into the agritourismo 40km away that we had been overcharged for the deposit that is typically paid to the TI at the time of the booking. We tried to resolve this matter with the local host, and later an email to Centro Booking Terra Sienna, but refused to refund the overpayment. We even went as far to send an email to the US Italian Tourism office to interceed, but to no avail. We had used two other TI's (Venice & Cortona)during the course without incident. I would recommend that other travelers refrain from using this agency for their travel needs in Sienna.
Bill
Redmond, WA USA Wed 06/02/2004
Dinner at Belforte Bar in Vernazza
We think you overlooked the Belforte Bar/Ristorante in Vernazza for dinner recommendations. We had the best meal of our lives there! The linguine carsara was amazing. The service was superb. When we told our waiter "siamo en luna de miele" he brought us chamapagne!
Kim and Eric Reisenauer
Sumter, SC USA Wed 06/02/2004
accommodations in Cinque Terre/Riomaggiore
Since Vernazza was booked during our visit, we stayed in Riomaggiore. If you plan on hiking the whole trail, we enjoyed the Riomaggiore - Vernazza direction. The trains were pretty easy to move within the CT region and to/from La Spezia. One word to note is that all of the 5 CT towns are at steep inclines from the water, so be prepared to walk uphill/downhill from the train stations. Get exact locations from the place you stay or you could miss it. Our hotel gave great directions for a local, but not good enough for a tourist.
Matt
USA Tue 06/01/2004
Cinque Terre trail is a MUST
Imagine our surprise when we ran in to Rick Steves on the Cinque Terre trail just outside of Manarola! He practices what he preaches!!! My wife and I saw him on May 12 on the trail and got a real nice photo as well as a short chat with the travel guru who inspired us to go to the Cinque Terre national park in the first place.
Matt
USA Tue 06/01/2004
Sorrento & Cinque Terre
Sorrento: We stayed at LA BADIA HOTEL(not mentioned in the book.) Great views, but quite a hike up a long hill. RISTORANTE DELFINO was very nice. We ate right on the water. The owner is very nice as well. We didn't really care for our pizzas at PIZZERIA AURORA. However, we did meet some Rick followers, so we had a nice time chatting with them. CARMINE MONETTI did a wonderful job on our tour of Amalfi Coast. Apparently, he had just driven around Rick right before we arrived in Sorrento! (We were in Italy the same time as Rick, but kept missing him.) Carmine does speak inventive English!
CINQUE TERRE: I think it is a lot harder to just shop up in the CT and find a place to stay. I booked our place about 2 months ahead of time and many of the places I emailed were already full. We stayed in Manarola at LA TORRETA. We actually had an apartment(#9). It was fine exept that the bidet was only like 2 inches from the toilet, so um, it was quite difficult to sit on the toilet. I'd avoid this apartment. We heard good things about the other rooms, though. Warning: it is a long hike up a hill. We were sweaty when we first arrive. We ate at MARINA PICCOLO in Manarola. We had their handmade pasta dishes - I'd recommend these over any other menu item. The pasta was very fresh.
Melinda
Palo Alto, CA USA Tue 06/01/2004
Ischia, Italy
Hi All (6-1-04), Just returning from two wonderful weeks in Italy with Rick's book, six females, all had a fantastic time, really loved your books, treasures each one. We spent two glorious days on Ischia at Hotel Terme Parco Edera, please consider adding them to your book. (www.parcoedera.it). Orange thermal pools and massages, the staff is wonderful, Francesca speaks english, she and her mother Rosa treated us like family. Fabulous, and the price is right. Also we had two dinners at Cecilia's, the food is delicious. What a great mini-vacation from our vacation of art, culture and history. Thanks again Rick for all your advance leg-work. You've got six new groupies. B. Brady
Bonita Brady
Kelseyville, CA USA Tue 06/01/2004
Hotel in Sienna
In Sienna we spent the night at the Palazzio di Valli, a very easy 15 walk to old town Sienna. The young woman who checked us in spoke fluent English, which really helped. The breakfast was included and was pleasant. We stayed in Room 27 and were told that this was one of the larger rooms and had the largest bath/shower. We had a lovely view of the hillsides from our windows. I would definately recommend this hotel.
Sheila Garner <email>
Castro Valley, CA USA Mon 05/31/2004
Hotels: Stresa, Italy
Stresa, Lake Maggiore, Italy: We stayed at the Hotel Saini Meuble and recommend it. The host, Gianni Saini, was most gracious and the rooms were charming and immaculate.
jw laytham
USA Mon 05/31/2004
Getting to Lake Como II
The train station is Como/San Giovanni!
Skip Ryan
Tampa, FL USA Sun 05/30/2004
Getting to Lake Como
We arrived at Milano Centrale, headed to Lake Como. We were staying in Bellagio. The suggested train to Varenna was not running that day, so we found an alternative way. We took the train at :25 past the hour to Como. The arrival station is Como/San Giacomo, not Como/Nord, which is near the water. The stop is for several minutes, not a quickie, as at Varenna.
We were thinking of catching the ferry (5x day)to Bellagio, but the station was some distance away. As an alternative, we discovered the bus. Catch the C30 bus from the San Giacomo station (16x/day) (2.50 euros one way, buy tickets at tabacchi shop in the station). It's a great ride; sit on the left; takes about 45 minutes. The bus stop (end) is across from the car ferry dock in Bellagio. From there it's easy to catch a ferry to wherever you are going. On the return, buy tickets at the tabacchi shop by the Hotel Metropole. CIAO!
Skip Ryan
Tampa, FL USA Sun 05/30/2004
Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, and Varenna
Santa Margherita Ligure, Portofino, and Varenna We just returned from a wonderful trip including four nights in northern Italy. Hotel Jolanda was a beautiful, small, boutique hotel in Santa Margherita Ligure, where we ate great breakfast buffets and suppers. Half board was worth it! I hiked from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino and I had to back track a few times because the trail wasn't well marked and, I thought, local maps were a bit confusing. Rick says the trail requires 1 hour, however, I doubt he's hiked it. It took me 2 1/2 hours, with backtracking, and, I didn't let any grass grow under my feet. The hike is very scenic and gives insight into how the locals live. I highly recommend it!
Varenna was beautiful also, and we had booked a night at Albergo Olivedo with a little hesitation. Laura was very accommodating to us, greeting us with a hearty "Hello" each time we entered the hotel. Food at supper was wonderful. We have no hesitation recommending the Albergo Olivedo to others.
Lawrence Barnes
Stayton, OR USA Sat 05/29/2004
Italy PALERMO, SICILY. The Ambascatori Hotel is only three and half blocks from the rail station. It is on via Roma which dead ends at the station right where the buses stop. Nice large room, comfy bed and breakfast was a warm apple croissant with coffee. Nice price and helpful staff too. We slept on the train from Rome to Palermo and it was great. We even took a shower on the train before arriving. Nice to arrive clean and fresh.
FLORENCE Avoid Ca'Speranza. Tiny, cramped. Blankets and spreads need washing. Sheets and towels were clean. Hot water pot for instant coffee in you room is the breakfast. You must check in at their other location (only allowed 4--8pm)which is across the large bridge in front of rail station. Then they walk you to the room where you must cross five or so bridges pulling wheeled luggage. A real pain. Would not stay there again!!
SORRENTO: Stay at il Nino Hotel. Wonderful service and huge buffet breakfast (ham, cheese,croissants, breads, two cereals, donuts, jelly, two juices). They run a free van into town center 3 times in morning and hourly from 3pm to 11:30pm. Wonderful view from the room overlooking the sea. Their dinner menu is among the best and cheapest in town. Food is very good. Staff does their best to keep you happy. It's rated 3 star but should be 4.
ROME: We rented an apartment for the same price as a hotel. It had a washer and we took heavy string (free that Lowe's and Home Depot use to tie lumber onto trucks) and made a clothes line. Small markets for basic groceries are in every areas of town. Was a great choice. We were between Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps at 10 Crispi. We rented from Real Rome.com. Just be sure to keep your copy of the internet receipt, as they showed the owner of the apartment, who met us with the key, that we were staying one night longer than we rented.
TOUR ROME; We used Three Millenum Tours to see the Vatican and the Jewish Ghetto. Tony and Anthony were great. They charge 20 euros for each and 15 if you do three tours with them, which is among the cheapest in town. Both guys are American who have moved there, so you can easily understand their comments, unlike those offered by Italians who think they speak English.
While in Sorrento, ask if the Blue Grotto is open before purchasing tickets to Isle of Capri. It was closed and we did not know until we made the trip. There's little else to do and the town where the boat lands is no more that a tourist trap.
The audio at Pompeii is difficult to match with what you are seeing. But the ruins are interesting anyway. Worth a trip.
MURANO GLASS: The tour of the factory is interesting, but hot. They leave a large plate with bills in it and signs expecting tips. We think the bills were to make you feel cheap if you gave coins, which we gave anyway. They then take you upstairs to see beautiful glass that cost in the thousands. Beautiful but beyond my pocketbook. We found smaller souveniers of glass to be much, much cheaper from the vendor stalls. I offered one 15 euros less than she asked for a large piece and it made her very angry. She began yelling at me, asking if I was from the jungle. So we gave our money to a different vendor.
In Florence,Rome, and Venice you can haggle with the vendors over small things like key chains if you are buying several and also over leather purses and jackets. We bought two jackets and a purse after also pricing the same type and color in two shops and then at several other vendor stalls. He came down 50 euros less than any of the others would and since we bought two jackets, he let us charge it on Visa without a fee. My bill came today and it was a good exchange rate.
Wyveta Kirk
Hollywood, SC USA Fri 05/28/2004
trip to Italy in May
We always use Rick Steves guidebooks. They are great for independent travelers. We recently ran into Rick on a street in Sorrento researching his book.
We just returned from Italy, and here are some tips. We took Air One from Rome to Venice, booked online for a very good price, and avoided the train strike. In Venice, we stayed at Locanda Leon Bianco around the corner from the Ca' D'oro vaporetto stop. Old world charm, large room overlooking the Grand Canal, breakfast served in your room, and the wonderful people working there made this a terrific experience.
In Florence, Relais Cavalcanti was centrally located and Anna and Francesca were very helpful. No breakfast, but access to a kitchen and dining area were provided.
Using the circumvesuviana from Naples to Sorrento is very difficult if you have any luggage. Taking the hydrofoil is much easier. I would appreciate more information on the south of Italy from Rick, particularly on water travel. Buses are not reliable and are very crowded. We stayed in the suite at La Tonnarella, and it was great. It was huge with incredible views. The restaurant is wonderful and reasonably priced.
Miriam Logan
Huntingdon Valley, PA USA Fri 05/28/2004
Sistine Chapel
Those people who recommend visiting the Sistine Chapel first thing in the morning and those who recommend waiting until the afternoon are both right depending on what day you go. The chapel closes at 12:45 PM on Saturdays so, if you want to go, you should go early.
Bob Ward
Houston, TX USA Thu 05/27/2004
Tuscany and Umbria
My wife and I recently returned from 12-day driving trip. Highlights: Pienza and nearby towns, Pittigliano and Sarona are picturesque and unusual, Bagnoregio and wonderful CIVITA, Bevagno and Spello, Anghiari, Cortona and San Miniato.
Did not care for Todi or Montone.
Sharing dinners and picnic lunches reduced costs. Had terrific meals in Pienza, Civita, Spello and Anghiari (Ristorante Da Algherio with German wife as chef provided best dinner in 4 trips to Italy!)
Met very few Americans, except many in Cortona. Weather great except rain last 4 days. Drove for an hour in Pisa following signs toward the Leaning Tower, never did find it! Italian people were super! Friendly and cheerful. We noted how clean the hilltowns were, no trash to be seen on streets. I am ready to go back tomorrow!
Jerry Arter
Winter Springs, FL USA Thu 05/27/2004
Sicily
We're looking for J. Brown of Tampa, Fl, to talk about the Tampa Sicilians to whom we are related and who are also from Santo Stefano and Alessandria de la Rocca. We're planning a trip to Sicily and want to talk with Mr. Brown before we go.
Janice Mattina
Bradenton, FL USA Wed 05/26/2004
florence
just got back from our daughter's wedding in italy. we stayed for 2 weeks and want to say that our stay at pensione bretagna was pleasant and affordable. we were not looking for anything too fancy but wanted a half decent place to stay. antonio was very helpful finding us train schedules and suggesting places to see, we appreciated his help.
mo
dartmouth, canada Sun 05/23/2004
Great tour book
Rick's Italy 2004 book gives you the information you need to see the highlights of Italy. I planned a trip to Rome, Florence, and Venice for a group of high school students in March 2004. I used Rick's book as our tour guide and learned more than enough information. This is the best travel book I've seen! Thanks Rick!
Nichole B.
Denver, CO USA Fri 05/21/2004
Hill Town: Hotel near San Gimingnano
On my recent road trip with my 80 year old parents we continued our drive from La Spezia to a hotel near San Gimingnano called Hotel Le Renaie www.hotellerenaie.com (39-0577955044) near REALLY small village called Pancole but 15 min beautiful driving to San Gimingnano. We parked near Porta San Giovanni and arrived at 5pm in time for the passegiata. We walked the length of the city. Went to the Sant' Agostino church and found the English mass on Sundays at 11am and planned to return. We then ate at the fabulous restaurant called Il Pino on Via San Matteo,102 near Porta San Matteo. It had excellent table wine, antipasto and desserts and unique dinners. Our hotel gave us a great map and tried to drive to Volterra from San Gimignano but it took 35 min to go the scenic route and we turned around to go to our restaurnant. We bought wine and tablecloths and a silk bow tie for my dad in San Gimignano. My mom learned how awesome it was to sit at 6pm in a cafe and rest your feet and people watch. I think I got them addicted to caffe latte and cappucinos here.
Carolyn
Naples, Italy Thu 05/20/2004
Cinque Terra : driving and Vernazza
I went to Cinque Terre by Car and train in 1996. This time I drove from Nice and took first exit to La Spezia, it was the slow scenic route but my 80 year old parents loved it. We had difficulty finding our way to the train station but once found the TI gave me a local map and recommend the ACI parking garage to keep my car safe for 15 Euro a day. Trust me it was worth it. I recommend taking a taxi back to train station rather than walking was great when we returned. Train was easy to use of course. My spry parents actually tolerated the steep climb to Affita Camera da Anna Marie. Her brother was climbing the steps with us and helped my dad with his luggage. After telling my parents about Franco's bar up top we slowly made our way up. I can speak some italian and explained to Franco how I had come in 1996 when a sudden wind and thunderstorm storm hit his restaurant and we ( other rick steves readers) had saved his umbrellas and he then made us spaghetti muscles and tomatoes. My parents said he made the best Bruschetta in Italy. We at dinner at Trattoria del Capitano-very disappointing in quality and service. We at the next day at Gambero Rosso which was great deco, awesome service and fabulous food. We took the train to Monterosso and ate at the Ristorante Belvedere. Very good. Unfortuately it was cold and my parents couldn't hike but they said was most interesting and unique experience in Italy.
Carolyn
Naples, Italy Thu 05/20/2004
Downtown Accomodation in Rome
Just returned from trip to Italy and really enjoyed 4 nights in Rome . We stayed at Downtown Accomodation , it is a small and nice place to stay , rooms are recently updated with private bathroom , very clean , comfortable and very reasonably priced .The hotel's location is absulutely perfect for exploring the city in any direction , Colosseum , the Roman Forum and Venezia Square only 2 blocks away , Trevi Fountain , the Capitol , Palatine , Spanish Steps a 10 minutes walk , and bus , metro lines a 2 minutes walk ! Visit website at www.downtownaccomodation.com e-mail : isajiang@virgilio.it
Caroline Denny
New York, USA Thu 05/20/2004
Solo weekend travel
I will be in Italy for two weeks, then Germany for almost a week, starting the end of this month. There is one weekend, between Italy and Germany, where I have no travel companion and nothing planned. I could stay in Italy, go to Switzerland, or head into Germany early. I have no idea. I'm nervous about being alone and not sure where to head. Can anyone suggest a nice and no *too* out of the way weekend destination between Florence and Stuttgart? Thank you! I've never travelled alone, so I really appreciate the input.
Jill
Sacramento, CA USA Tue 05/18/2004
Levanto near the Cinque Terre
We highly recommend the Villa Margherita B&B in Levanto near the Cinque Terre (www.villamargherita.net). The rooms are very clean, cool and quiet, breakfast is great, and the location is within easy walking distance to everything. Federico, the owner, is delightful, speaks English and is a great source of restaurant recommendations.
Paul Simiovic
Santa Monica, CA USA Tue 05/18/2004
Europe Through The Back Door
We go to Europe, most often Italy, every year. Fifteen years or so ago I was looking for hotel recommendations and happened on Rick. I had read practically every guidebook printed, used several and found them all undependable for the type of place WE liked. IE, in the center of the old town, reasonably priced and that felt like the country we were in, not like an American chain.
My family owns an historic old hotel on the Texas Gulf Coast so I knew very well what I wanted. I found it with Rick's books. We have since used them all over Europe and never been disappointed. Sometimes surprised, but not disappointed. Not every hotel or restaurant is to everyones taste. And it shouldn't be. As to what he covers, Rick's books are GUIDE books. That is they are supposed to GUIDE you, not tell you everything on the "must see" list. He tries to sketch your choices and never tries to be inclusive or exclusive. He makes a strong point in ALL the books that you should experiment, try "back doors", live like a European, not like some American dolt on a 15 city/7 day crowded bus ride. He emphasizes over and over to learn something about art, history, the culture, the people and learn at least a few phrases of courtesy everywhere. I know Roman (Italian) history as well as anyone and that includes art and anything about the Renaissance and I have found no egregiouis mistakes or omissions in Rick's books. He certainly isn't always right and he is the first to admit it. In fact he feverently asks his readers to contribute. If you know nothing at all about art, Rick has a great book (Mona Winks) to introduce you to the key areas you should know to make intelligent choices as a tourist. He can't MAKE you intelligent, but if you already are, he is a good guide.
Rick is an Everyman as a travel writer but he is an extremely intelligent Everyman. And you should be darn thankful he is. In addition he maintains this FREE site to help you and he makes only very low key pitches for his books. If you are an intelligent traveler, you will read his books before you travel. I've been to Roma more often than most people have had hot meals but I still read each new editon on Rome, Italy and Florence. I have found very few errors or important omissions for the general tourist.
Finally, I have watched every travel web site and read every guide written and nowhere do I find more intellegent and enthusiastic readers than Rick has. And I can prove that. A number of regular Graffiti Wall Posters keep in casual contact with each other and I have never heard a serious criticism from any of them.
Charles M. Luther
USA Mon 05/17/2004
Italy trip May 2004
Just finished our 2nd trip using RS guidebooks as our primary source of information. No other guidebook gives you the nuts and bolts logistical info to have a successful trip. You can quibble about a hotel here or there or the map that might not be michelin quality but overall I have to say thank you RS. We are wine fans and a nice way to connect Siena and Florence is the S222 through the Chianti region. We stopped in Greve and got our picnic supplies on the main piazza at the great Macelleria Folorni butcher shop.
Wayne
Hooksett, NH USA Mon 05/17/2004
Trip Results - Italy April 2004
I was in Italy from April 18th to May 1st. I visited Venice, Florence and Rome. In all three cities, I stayed at places listed in Rick Steve’s “Italy 2004” book. I traveled alone, so all of my rooms were booked for one person.
In Venice, I stayed at the Hotel Campiello. I found it well located. Its is within 150 ft of a vaporetto stop, and about a five minute walk from Piazza San Marcos. The staff was knowledgeable, pleasant, thoughtful, and accommodating. I found the hotel clean, though more utilitarian than luxurious. I stayed in room 103, which was the smallest in the hotel. It was very small. I looked at other rooms before leaving, and they are more comfortable. I spoke with two couples who used Rick’s book to select the hotel, and they were happy with their rooms. I would consider staying at the hotel again.
My first bonehead tourist mistake: the campanile is a working bell tower. The bells are rung on the hour regardless of the presence of people on the observation deck. I actually found it exciting, but it is very loud.
The first full day I was in Venice, I went on Venicescapes’ “Story of a Mercantile Empire” with Michael Broderick. Rick’s description of the experience was “right on.” I thoroughly enjoyed his presentation. He started with about ten minutes of pertinent physical geography, and then, over the next several hours, he carried me through 1,800 years of Venice’s political and economic history as we walked all over the island. It put into context everything else I saw during the time I was in Venice. On the other hand, I can see how it might have driven other people crazy.
In Florence, I stayed at the Loggiato dei Serviti. It is a seven minute walk to the Duomo, and about twice that to the Uffizi. I liked its location. The hotel’s staff was helpful, accommodating and pleasant. I thought the hotel was clean and my room, the lobby, bar and breakfast room all attractive and comfortable. I neither found the hotel “luxurious”, nor did I have a sense of the age of the building once I was inside of it. The last point may actually be a good thing because every important system in it worked, (i.e. the plumbing, electricity, roof, etc.)
I did not detect the odor mentioned by a previous poster to this site. The only defects I found were the stone top of the dresser in my room was so loose I could have accidentally knocked off, and there were a couple of small tears in the lining of the wardrobe.
As suggested in Rick’s book, I got an interior room. However, whenever I was around the piazza in front of the hotel, the piazza was quiet. Perhaps I simply “beat the crowds” with the dates of my trip. I would consider staying at the hotel again.
In Rome, I stayed at the Casa di Santa Brigida. It is a fairly new guesthouse attached to a convent. There is a large sitting area and a large dining room. It is very well located, clean, comfortable, attractively decorated and efficiently operated.
All of the rooms that I saw, including mine, were comfortably sized. I had an interior room so it was quiet. The exterior rooms either look onto Piazza Farnese or Via Monserrato. I do not know how noisy they are.
While almost all of the time the nuns were quite pleasant, there were three minor instances when I thought two of them got a little snippy (unnecessarily so, in my opinion.) I was so busy, it was not a problem. Now that I know better what to expect, I would consider staying there again.
If you are going to the Borghese Gallery, I urge you to get there at least 20 minutes before your reservation to get your ticket and to check your belongings. Space constraints slow down the check room staff, so a crowd forms about 10 minutes before each reservation time. While I was in the mob, I did not see anyone who seemed to be enjoying the experience.
Anthony Mindlin
Santa Monica, CA USA Sun 05/16/2004
RS Italy - More bad than good
Rick Steves books are good for general info but we found the details inaccurate or simply bad advice. His Florence museum tours were helpful, but unaccountably omitted some of the major, major pices. Restaurants recommdenations were especially poor. Using the maps is the surest way to get lost, since they fail to show many of the streets and fail to correctly name the streets that are shown.
The one recommendation that we can endorse is Residensa Cellini, although we originally saw it on Tripadvisdor. The place is absolutely beautiful and immaculate. Attention is paid to every little detail - from fresh flowers in the rooms down to wall sockets with built in switches to go between 115 and 220 volts. The people who run it are the most helpful that we've ever ecountered and are happy to go far out of their way to accommodate any special needs. I recommend the suites - they aren't much more than a double and the whirlpool is a lifesaver after a hard day trekking around Rome.
Eric
Cleveland, O USA Sun 05/16/2004
We just returned from three lovely weeks in Northern Italy, and stayed in three rental apartments which I would like to recommend. The beauty of an apartment is that besides a greater sense of privacy, you can cook your own meals if you so desire, and generally achieve a more "at home" feel.
San Gimignano- We rented from Carla Rossi (in Rick's Italy 2002 book), the "le Bifore", a bed/sitting room in the Palazzo Tortoli on the Piazza Cisterna (www.appartamentirossicarla.com). It was big, comfortable, and reasonably priced. Very picturesque! Francesco, the proprietor, was a very pleasant person to deal with, and the location of this room put us in the center of everything. I suggest a hike around the city walls - the view is breathtaking.
Venice - We tried a new rental this time, and it turned out to be a pleasant surprise. Andrea Gonella and his family rent out a small homey apartment near the Academia. It had a wonderful kitchen and was a short walk from the Rialto fish and produce market. It was clean and comfortable and was one of the things that made our third trip to Venice the best one yet. vinazza76@inwind.it at www.vacationrentals.com/vacation-rentals/8821.html
Editor's Note: This email was previously listed incorrectly. It is now correct.
Rome - Every nice thing said about Mauro Cali is deserving and true. The agency he manages, "Underground Viaggi", (www.omtour.com) is very competent. Our apartment, just off the Campo dei Fiore, was large, pleasant and comfortable. Especially considering the transportation (from the train station, and to the airport) that Mauro provided, it was a very good value. Underground Viaggi provides other services as well. and has about 20 apartments around Rome.
Hope you enjoy your trip to Italy, and that these references are a help to you.
P & P
Sat 05/15/2004
Sicily was Breathtaking
My husband and I just returned from a 13 day vacation to Sicily. We found the people to be caring and protective of us. The high point of our trip was visiting the 2 small villages which my family came from. In the early 1900's they immigrated to Tampa, FL, to work in the cigar-making industry. The 2 villages they came from were Alessandria de la Rocca and Santo Stefano di Quisquina. The closest city to these villages was Agrigento. We took the train from Palermo to Agrigento. In Agrigento we took a local bus that goes to all the little villages thru some breathtaking mountain scenery, making S curves and hairpin turns. In Alessandria, we took lots of pictures and then spoke to the locals. I am able to speak very little Italian. We asked if there was a Taxi to go to Santo Stefano so we wouldn't have to wait for the next bus. There were no Taxis, but they took us to a residence where the woman said her son could take us. It turned out that Gianfranco acted as our personal guide thru Alessandria and Santo Stefano, stopping his car at the sights to photograph. After that, he took us to Cammaratta which had the closest train station. All this was just 50 Euros.
In Agrigento we also visited the Valley of the Temples and were amazed at the wonderful condition of the Greek temples there. The artifacts in the museum were also remarkable.
One thing we found is that the locals do not like the trains, but rather prefer cars or buses. Because of this we took some great train rides cheap, in which we were very comfortable since they were not crowded and had bathrooms at the end of each car. But the trains don't go everywhere, for example, we took the bus to Piazza Armerina to see the Villa Romana Casale mosaics. It was a good bus ride, and the bus was full. When we arrived in Piazza Armerina, we asked the bus driver how to get to Villa Romana Casale from the bus stop. He pointed to an elderly man standing by the bus. The elderly man (Filipo) said he would drive us to the Villa for 15 Euros each way. He drove us thru the mountain roads several miles right up to the gate, told the people that work there that we were American tourists and they took us to the ticket window. He told them the time he would be back to pick us up. We were able to enjoy the 37,000 square feet of floor mosaics, and then relax at the 'bar' on the grounds with a gelato and a pastry. The workers came and got us when Filipo had returned. He took us back to Piazza Armerina and took us to all the sights to see there. He also took us to a tabacchi to buy another disposable camera and to a bank to access the ATM which they call Bancomat. Then he took us to a 'bar' and we had a 'cafe' and a gelato. He introduced us to some of the townspeople (he said they were attorneys and judges), and took us back to the bus stop.
One city that we were surprised about was Messina. You can see all the sights in a few hours. This included a campanile in Piazza del Duomo that is almost like a cuckoo clock. At noon, all the gold figures go into action complete with sound effects. This includes a lion that opens his mouth and roars, a rooster that flaps it wings and crows, a tomb from which Jesus rises up to heaven while Ave Maria plays, and more. Also, in the Messina train station, we were able to watch as the intercity train rolls from the station onto a railroad ferryboat that has train tracks inside it. The huge mouth of the ferryboat closes and the boat sails to the mainland 3 miles away so the train can continue on to Rome.
Our hotel was in Palermo which itself is a wonderful place. We stayed at the Hotel del Centro which is about a half mile from Stazione Centrale and Via Balsamo next to the train station where the buses are. The people at Hotel del Centro were wonderful. Our favorites were 2 of the concierges and the lady that served coffee in the breakfast room. The concierges recommended the special AMAT bus that for 10 Euros takes you to all the main sights in Palermo. Tomaso the guide speaks English and French very well. He tells you all about what you are seeing and waits by the bus as his passengers see each sight. We caught the AMAT tour bus in front of Fontana Pretoria, the first stop, and paid Tomaso directly. The bus even went to Monreale which is far out of town to see the beautiful cathedral, and to the Cappuchin Catacombs where the dead bodies are hanging from the walls all dressed up.
We went to CapellaPallatina/ Palazzo Normani on our own since it isn't open everyday. Both can be seen within a couple of hours and are in same building. Mondello Beach is worth a visit. The concierges (one of which spoke English very well) told us to take the 806 bus near Politeama, to get to Mondello Beach. The beach is semi-circular and surrounded by mountains. There are fishermen in the marina cleaning their catches. Lots of beautiful people are laying on the sand.
The train to Cefalu was a great ride of less than an hour. Cefalu itself was like a fairy tale. We spent a very enjoyable day there taking in all the ancient beauty and visiting the museum. The guide in the museum seemed to take us under his wing and pointed out the important works of art there.
We took a bus to Catania one day and there took the Metro, which is in the train station, to the Borgo stop where we caught the CircumEtna Train that goes slowly around Mount Etna for some spectacular pictures. The train stopped in Randazzo for about an hour and we were able to walk around Randazzo to take pictures and have a snack in the 'bar' at the train station. Then we resumed the trip on the next train.
One of the best kept secrets is the Metro in the Palermo railroad station at Binario 10. We found that in an hour or less you can go to inside the Palermo airport in comfort and it only costs 4.25 Euros. There are 2 trains and one leaves Palermo every hour on the 10 minutes. One leaves the airport every hour on the 40 minutes.
At no time did I feel unsafe walking around. The hotel felt as secure as Fort Knox since they had security cameras and the concierges would buzz you in. They even had an elevator. The concierges recommended some great local restaurants in Palermo in which the food was excellent and inexpensive. (Proverbio, San Francesco, Cambusa). We got lots of food with beer, wine, water, softdrinks for between 15 and 35 Euros total. The weather was bright and sunny, but there was a very cool breeze most of the time, so we wore jackets, as do the locals. I took 31 rolls of pictures since, except for the Cappuchin Catacombs, you are allowed to take pictures everywhere.
I am looking forward to taking another trip to Sicily in the future and possibly staying on the East Coast and from there visiting the rest of the island.
J.Brown
Tampa, FL USA Sat 05/15/2004
Albergo Bernini..Siena
We booked at the Albergo Bernini in Siena for OCT 03..they had no rooms at the main location but offered us 2 rooms in a nice apartment "nearby"..well, the apt. is very nice but a long walk from the main hotel..down/up a very long steep hill and down/up 3 flights of steps from the street; no telephone in the apt. and very difficult to get a taxi. We had to walk to the main hotel and have them call a taxi then ride the taxi back to the apt in order to load our luggage when we left. I do not recommend this alternative.
Judy
Davis, CA USA Fri 05/14/2004
Florence Hotel Map in Italy 2004
Please update/review your Florence hotel map for Pensione Centrale in Italy 2004 guidebook. We spent about an hour looking for it. Finally got a cab to take us to it and was on the opposite side than was indicated on the map.
Rene
Spring, TX USA Thu 05/06/2004
Vatican Exchange
When in Rome, exchange your money and traveller's cheques at the Vatican. They don't charge any fees and there is never a line. Exchange located in the entrance to the Vatican Museum.
Katie Moore
Austin, TX USA Wed 05/05/2004
Recent Visit To Northern Italy
Just returned from a brief visit to Italy, France (Grenoble) and Switzerland. Sforza Castle in Milan worth the visit but be careful - I managed to miss an entire section!
Bergamo - an easy train ride north of Milan from Milano Centrale - is well worth a visit. The Citti Alta is great - wonderful views, some interesting museums, beautiful churches and plazas. Though it was a bit odd to wander into the Archeological Museum and find a display of American Indian artifacts brought back to Italy by an Italian explorer in the 1800's.
Genoa (Genova) is a European Capital of Culture for 2004. It is worth spending a bit of time there - the Age Of Rubens exhibit is quite good but it is really a working city. I'm not sure it would be fun to spend a lot of time there, especially with the Ligurian Coast and the Cinque Terre so near.
Tony Galiani <email>
Carrboro, NC USA Tue 05/04/2004
Don't miss Tivoli
Rick Steeves includes the small town of Tivoli in his DVD, but it is curiously absent from the Italy guidebook. If you have more than two days in Rome you may want to try to fit in a half day trip to this wonderful little town (it's 30 mile north of Rome). It's home to Hadrian's Villa which was built in the first centruy A.D. and Villa d'Este a Renaissance villa famous for it's 600 fountains. It's a great side-trip to get away from the hectic pace of Rome.
Shawn
Stamford, CT USA Mon 05/03/2004
Rome on Sunday
I love Rome any time--much more than Rick seems to --the first time we visited we did his two to three recommended days and knew we needed to go back. If you have options, try to include a Sunday in your time in Rome. Then get up early and move around when the traffic is down. On our first visit we saw the Pantheon on a Sunday morning--no one in the piazza and less than a half a dozen people inside. Even more awe inspiring than when it is busy. On this last trip, we walked the neighborhood around the Catacombe di Priscilla. These Catacombs are not the most famous ones, but they are open Sunday morning and are plenty eerie. Best yet, they are situated in an upscale neighborhood of gorgeous homes and parks where Romans are out having coffee, walking their dogs and kids and enjoying the Sunday morning along with you. Add this vision of Rome to the hustle and grandeur of "Tourist Rome" and you will certainly be closer to the Back Door.
Joy Olsen <email>
Vancouver, WA USA Mon 05/03/2004
Correcting another of my spelling errors
In my earlier message here, that has the heading "Correcting My Spelling Error", (dated 05/03/2004), it reads "In my ealier message here, (dated May 28)...". That sentance should read "In my earlier message here (dated 05/03/2004)...".
Ron
Springfield, MO USA Mon 05/03/2004
Sorrento
Noted that Merry Monks pub seemed dark and shut up when we were in Sorrento a week or so ago. Also the English Inn does not appear to be where noted in the book. Do recommend the pizza and the beer at Pizzeria Aurora. For April, the crowds on Capri and in Sorrento were pretty shocking--strongly urge off season visits here. Friends who have gone in September say it is really nuts--I can only imagine.
Joy Olsen <email>
Vancouver, WA USA Mon 05/03/2004
Correcting my spelling error
In my ealier message here,(Dated May 28), that has the heading : "More about Florence (Florenzia)", a spelling error is in that heading. I intended that heading to read : "More about Florence (Firenze)".
Ron
Springfield, MO USA Mon 05/03/2004
More about Florence (Florenzia)
The purpose for going to Florence is to see art (portrait paintings, sculpture) in the art galleries and in the Santa Croce Church, and architecture students like to see buildings in Florence. If you want to learn what happened during the Renaissance in Florence, read a book. I did, before I went to Italy. I read the book "LORENZO THE MAGNIFICENT", by Maurice Rowdon. Published by Henry Regnery Company, Chicago. (1974). Or see the PBS television documentary on the Medici Family: it was on the PBS television network recently, in three parts. If you did not see it, your public library might be willing to buy the DVD of that.
Ron
Springfield, MO USA Mon 05/03/2004
Manarola, Cinque Terre
Just returned from 3 days in Manarola-Cinque Terre.It was fantastic and we dined at "La Scogliera",it was great and the owner Paolo is very friendly and very helpful.If you like fresh fish this place is perfect.Not expensive.email:lascogliera.manarola@tiscali.it
Elisabetta
Mira - Venezia, Italy Italy Sun 05/02/2004
Some updates/suggestions
When travelling on my own, I have a weakness for chosing forgettable restaurants and soulless or supercilious hotels, so was I very grateful to Rick's guidebook for keeping me on the straight and narrow during my recent 8-day trip to Italy. There were no duds this time, and as a result it was a wonderful week - with my only regret being my own doing (I walked into a plate glass window in Siena and knocked myself unconscious.)
So what if there I saw a lot of other people carrying the same guidebook as me? They all looked like they were having a great time, too, each of us in our own way. I never felt "crowded" by other Rick Steves tourists... not even in Vernazza. (Though I did get asked twice if I _was_ Rick Steves - apparently I look a lot like him.)
A couple of corrections, updates, and suggestions:
1) In Milan, tram number 24 will not take you to see the Last Supper; if you get on it, you may miss your appointment. Tram 16 (which you can get on across from the Hotel Rio) is a better choice. Make sure you get on the one headed west, as the stop for the southbound is right in front of the Rio also (they're on opposite sides of the street).
2) St Mark's Basilica in Venice closes at 1600 on Sundays, not 1700 as Rick's book states. I got there at 1605 and was turned away (but went back the next day - it's an un-missable sight).
3) In Florence, the Bargello now costs 7 euros, not 4 - but I agree with Rick here: it is still worth it. (I was also very impressed by the Duomo museum.)
4) In Florence, Sergio at Trattoria Nella serves up the best gnocchi I've ever had... and that includes my childhood in New Jersey! Worth a special mention.
5) In Florence, I stayed at Soggiorno Magliani. The location was good, Cristina and her Mum were very sweet, and it was clean and quite adequate - but the front rooms are very noisy at night from people shouting in the streets. I'd suggest either requesting a "tranquillo" side room, or else bringing ear plugs.
6) In Siena, the Duomo has a sign at the entrance implying that the 3 euro entrance fee is now permanent, even when (as is the case at the moment) the mosaics under the dome are covered up. But no one was taking money at the Piccolomini library.
7) In Siena, I tried to go to Trattoria La Tellina, since the guidebook indicated they opened for dinner at 1800 (the earliest of Siena's suggested restaurants) and I wanted to be sure to catch the last bus back to Florence at 2045. The door was open, but they weren't serving; the guys in the kitchen told me they don't open until 1900 now.
8) In Milan, if you get seasick, avoid the Branca tower when there is any wind. The breeze couldn't have been more than about 10 MPH when I went up, but the top of the tower was swaying like the mast of a ship in a gale. The operators closed it down "for safety reasons" as soon as I got to the base.
David Steensma
Headington, Oxford UK Sun 05/02/2004
Don't miss Firenze
Anyone living in the world today lives in a world largely created by what happened in Florence during a period of about 300 years. The contributions of Greece, Rome, the Middle East and the Far East were reworked to create our world of today. If you want to understand your world, you need to have a familiarity with that period in Italy. Otherwise, eat your gelato, walk the Cinque Terre, get drunk every night and go home as ignmorant as when you came. There is nothing wrong with that. Some of our most prominent people will be your fellows. But you could have done that at home.
cml
USA Wed 04/28/2004
Sightseeing priorities in Italy
In the book "Rick Steves' ITALY 2004", I disagree with his suggested Sightseeing priorities in Italy. My suggested priorities for traveling in Italy are
Rome (4 days, including the day you arrive at the airport). The day you arrive, go directly to a hotel to shower and sleep.
Cinque Terre (2 days). Sleep in Montorosso or Vernazza. Walk on the path from Corniglia to Vernazza. My favorite town is Manorola: good seaside patio.
Lucca (3 hours), on the day you travel by train from Cinque Terre to Florence.
When you leave Rome, ride on the EURO STAR train to Pisa. Be at Pisa for 2 hours before riding train to Cinque Terre (Vernazza or Monterosso). On EURO STAR trains, second class cars are good enough. On all other trains in Italy, I suggest ride in first class cars, because the second class cars can be crowded with noisy and rude people.
Going to Florence is not important, unless you have an unsatiable apetite for seeing high gothic art (paintings from the 1400s) and marble sculpture. Most people can see enough art in Rome, at Villa Borghese gallery, and in the Vatican museum. My favorite art object in Italy is the white marble sculpture of Appolo and Daphne, by Bernini, in Villa Borghese gallery.
And, seeing the Trevi fountain is a must ! For me, the people in Rome were as friendly and warm as the people at any other place in Italy. And it is not necessary to go to a small town in Tuscanny to see the Italian culture and lifestyle. You can see that in Rome. In Rome, a goodplace for beer and talking and salad and pasta or pizza is Taverna Le Cappele, at via delle Copelle 39, near the Pantheon. The best time to arrive there is at 7 p.m. Rome is the only city in Italy that is important to go to. You can see the countryside of Tuscanny from the train (EURO STAR) going from Florence to Rome. The one place in Italy that I did not want to leave was the Cinque Terre, on the path between Manorola and Vernazza, high above the tranquil blue Mediterranean Sea. Eat tomatoes every day, to get vitamin C.
Ron
Springfield, MO USA Wed 04/28/2004
Florence and the Cinque Terre
I used Rick's book while spending sometime in Florence and the Cinque Terre. Boy was it a God send! We didn't use Rick's accomodation listing 'cause we were students on a budget but based on his advice we stayed in Oltrarno and loved it. I must give particular thanks for the recommendation of a cafeteria on the same road as Il Duomo. You were right - no tourists and fantastic food!! The best. We also took a day trip to Cinque Terre and used your book there. Thanks a million!
Karen E. Penate <email>
Toronto, ON Canada Mon 04/26/2004
Siena, Italy - Palazzo Ravizza
Stayed at 4 hotels in different areas of Italy and this was our favorite. A friend who travels to Italy frequently told us about it. Service was great, front desk staff was helpful, rooms had large wood doors and wood furniture and amazing views of the Tuscan countryside. Opted for a courtyard view instead of a street view. Bathroom was large with pretty tile work. It was very romantic.
myhale
Albuquerque, NM USA 04/21/04
Hotel Smeraldo typo
There's a typo in Rick Steve's Rome 2004. The correct address for the Hotel Smeraldo in Rome is Vicolo Dei Chiodaroli 9.
Steve Dickey <email>
Pacific Palisades, CA USA 04/21/04
Hotel Il Nido, Sorrento
Hotel Il Nido, Sorrento. I have used this hotel many times now and find it a wonderful place to stay. The rooms are clean and comfortable, and very reasonably priced. The hotel is located on the hill above Sorrento with great views and the nights are nice and quiet. I eat at the hotel restaurant most nights or walk 100 yards down the hill to a great sea food and pizza place called Il Borgo. Another thing I like about this hotel is an atmosphere of friendliness. It rubs off on most guests so you find yourself having dinner or a drink with some very nice people from Europe or North America. Everybody shares info and Gianni or Dino(the owners) are always there to help. The hotel has a very easy FREE shuttle bus service that gets you up and down the hill to Sorrentos' main piazza or the train station. Their website has a wealth of information on all the sights in and around Naples/Sorrento and most important all the different transportation options. I have taken the train, boat or bus to all the sights, had a beer near the shuttle pick up point and dinner on "the hill", then kick back and enjoy the lights on the Bay of Naples. I have recommended this hotel many times and have decided to use it any time I am in the Naples area.
Rob Guest
Wailuku, HI USA 04/19/04
trip to Italy
Just got back from 11 days in Italy. Heavenly. Stayed at Edi's rooms in Riomaggiore; hiked all five towns in five hours. Spectacular, definetly a highlight. The roof of the Duomo in MIlan was fun; best view of the city. Venice was magic..what can we say? Stayed at Fondazione Levi near the Accademia Bridge. What an incredible city. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection was a must see, if you love modern art. Florence was great for the Renaissance art; but not our favorite city. NOisy and crowded. Rome was amazing for the antiquities; stayed at Hotel Adler. All Rick Steves' suggestions were as good as gold. His was the only guidebook we brought. We're planning our next trip already.
Dina
WA USA 04/18/04
Monterosso Italy restaurants
I read on your graffiti board about a restaurant in monterosso, Italy called "Ciak". The people who reviewed it were somewhat negative about the serive, food, and prices. My friend and I had decided not to dine there, but one day as we were passing the outdoor patio we saw a beautiful dish being served and I decided that it was too beautiful to pass---sooo- we stopped for dinner and I have to say that it was--without a doubt--the best meal we had in our 2 week stay in monterosso! The dish we had (2 times!!) was the seafood ravioli--I have "copied" it since I have returned home and highly recommend it to anyone who loves the pure taste of shrimp, tomatoes, parsley, and ravioli,and olive oil---buonissimo!! Additionally, we had excellent service--friendly, attentive, and prompt. And, while the prices were not cheap---they also were not expenisve--in fact, given the quality and quantity of the food--they were a real bargain! We and our husbands are returning this May to Monterosso and Ciak is high on our list of repeat experiences. Christina Silcox
Chrsitina Silcox
Wilmiton, DE USA 04/16/04
Bellagio, Lake Como - Hotel Suggestion
I recently spent Easter weekend in the lovely lakefront town of Bellagio and stayed at the Residence La Limonera. The Residence is a typical Italian residence (a small studio-style apartment with a kitchenette; no daily maid service). What made the La Limonera stand out was its cleanliness, modern furnishings (everything looked new) and price. I paid €85 per night for an apartment that slept four people comfortably and even had a view. The staff speaks English although the office has somewhat strange hours. They have a website which is www.residencelalimonera.com through which you can book. There is a deli right next to where you can buy fresh pasta, cheeses etc. The ferries to and from Como can get expensive; a much cheaper alternative is to take the C30 bus from the Como North Lake Train Station (buy the €2.50 tickets at the adjacent bus station). To get to Bellagio, follow Rick's advice and take the train to Varenna and then the ferry to Bellagio.
Nicola Searle
Milano, MI Italy 04/15/04
A week in the Cinque Terre - Vernazza
Just returned from another incredible trip to Italy and fully enjoyed a week in Paradise, or otherwise known as Vernazza in the Cinque Terre. Words can hardly describe the natural beauty of this incredible place. Plan plenty of time to hike between the towns so that you can fully enjoy the breathtaking views. Monterosso to Vernazza and Vernazza to Corniglia were my favorites. March was a lovely time to visit, and traveling during the "off season" has it's rewards, it was so nice to see this lovely little Village in relative peace and quiet, which is very different from peak travel months. Stayed in Giuliano Basso's rooms above the train station on the Trail towards Corniglia. The rooms are quite nice, recently updated, very clean and comfortable and Giuliano was just wonderful. Visit his website at www.cdh.it/giuliano where you can email him for reservations or call 3333414792. Definitely plan ahead and make reservations for your stay in Vernazza, particularly if you would like a view...even in mid-March there were plenty of tourists! Pastries for breakfast at Il Pirate della 5 Terre were to die for and owners Massimo and Gianluca are some of the nicest people you will ever meet. Try the Pizza with 4 cheeses and Achiuge al Limone at Pizzeria Vulnetia on the harbor or the Seafood Pasta at Del Capitano...Yum!! Already planning my next trip.
Nancy <email>
USA 04/12/04
Agriturismo near Civita
Check out the Agriturismo Le Corone outside of Civita. We did not stay there, but we met the owner, Fabrizio, at his antique olive mill in Civita. When we showed him our 2004 Rick Steve's Italy book, we seemed very surprised not to see his agriturismo listed. Seems that a writer for Rick visited last summer, saw the agritourismo and promised to include them in the new edition. So, we promised to mention it here. www.agrilecorone.com
Portland, OR USA 04/12/04
Tram to Last Supper
We took tram #24 in Milan as instructed by Rick's book to get to the church of the Santa Maria delle Grazie. It went south instead of west and nowhere close to the church. We had to backtrack and take the Metro and, with the help of some additional directions, barely made our appointment.
John Wahlers
Naperville, IL USA 04/10/04
Southern Italy
We wished your guide had more on southern Italy. Nevertheless, we enjoyed southern Italy as much as or more than northern Italy. We'd like to pass along a few tips on Palermo and Bari. Palermo is short on hotels, but there are many clearly marked pensions near the station. It's also got loads of great stuff to see. Luckily, the travel information office at the train station directed us to an affordable but excellent four-hour city bus tour of the Norman Palace, Cathedral, Monreale, and several other sights. We used the ports of Bari and Brindisi for ferries to and from Greece. We particularly liked Bari. Hotel Adria, adjacent to the train station, is a wonderful value and has an outstanding restaurant. Bari has an interesting "old town" area, which includes the cathedral where St. Nicolas is buried. (Yes, this is the guy associated with Christmas.)
Peter Hoffman
Murfreesboro, TN USA 04/08/04
Airport Hotel in Milan
Milan is a great city. We would not have spent much time there if we hadn't been flying in and out of there. So glad to have experience it. The duomo is spectacular. One hotel to beware of is the Milan Airport Hotel or it may be known as First Hotel Milan. Extremely rude and not accommodating at all. It is very convenient if you're flying out early from Milan, but that's about all I can say that would be a positive. It's like a motel 6 at the rate of $200.00 per night for only 2 people per room. Beware....
Lisa Jackson
Houston, TX USA 04/05/04
Monterosso, Cinque Terre
Cinque Terre is worth every penny. What a jewel.. We stayed in Monterosso. Mateo at Hotel Villa Steno is very nice and extremely helpful. It is worth the climb to his fabulous hotel. Breakfast was lavish and delicious. I'm definitely going back to the Cinque Terre.
Lisa Jackson
Houston, TX USA 04/05/04
Cinque Terre
Our Vernazza stay at the Franca Maria in March 2004 was not a disappointment. Our group took both rooms #1 and #2 the windows of which look out over the town’s little harbor. The entrance to the rooms is up some steps from the plaza and down a funky little lane, all very Cinque Terreish. It is said the town of Vernazza has a warm side and a cool side. In March our room was a little cool on the inside as mama Franca Maria watches her power bill closely, but it was not uncomfortable. During the summer these rooms will be a dream. The Blue Marlin is good for quick eats; they will actually make up a pizza for take out. Then eat your pizza and watch the sunset from the harbor. We hiked from Riomaggiore to Manarola and wanted to go on to Corniglia but the trail was closed. We did not hear how long it would be shut down. The beauty of this area will knock your socks off. Hopping on and off the trains works well but the schedule is undependable if you are trying to make a specific connection in La Spezia or Genoa; take an earlier train so as to allow yourself adequate of time.
Dan Shrader
North Ogden, UT USA 03/27/04
Cinque Terre
We were there for three days during March 2004. It was beautiful. It was not full of tourist yet so it was great. I don't think it would be the same during peak season. If you are looking for good food-Da Billy's in Manarola. Horrible food and over priced-Il Pirata delle 5 Terre in Vernazza (their pastries are good in the morning but DON'T go back for dinner!) Corniglia has a sandwich/cafe shop with excellent sandwiches!! Sorry can't remember the name. Vernazza would not be my choice for accommodations. We enjoyed the other villages more.
Tanya
Anchorage, ak USA 03/25/04
Bed and Breakfast in Rome
B and B Smart is a charming place to stay, and very convenient for the major attractions of Rome. Breakfast is adequate for the reasonable price and the staff and helpfull and polite. All in all a good choice for budget accomodation. Their website is: www.bandbromeitaly.com or email: isajiang@virgilio.it; I highly recomend giving them a try.
Bryn Tittle
New York, NY USA 03/23/04
Summer In Italy 2003
Summmer Trip To Italy 2003 Sorry that I am a little late in posting my response. My parents took my brother and I to Italy this summer for three and a half weeks. It was the absolute BEST trip I have ever taken. We carried Rick Steves's books everywhere we went, and used many, MANY, tips to help our vacation. My mom swears by them.
Just a couple of comments: Best cappucino - Hotel Ungherese in Firenze. Biggest Gelato - Just off Piazza Navona in Rome Rudest people - VENEZIA by far.*We got off the vaporetto in Venice and mom politely asked a waiter who was just clearing a table if he could direct us to Hotel Campiello. The waiter nodded, and told us to go two bridges to the right. We dragged our four suticases and carry ons over these two bridges, the weather being 40 degrees Celcius, only to find out by actually calling the hotel that he had deliberately pointed us the wrong way, and it was just to the left of the restaurant where we had asked directions! The waitstaff at the hotel was also not very friendly, and swore at us in Italian, not believing that we could understand; my dad is Italian.
MARANELLO:We also visited the GALLERIA Ferrari in Maranello which is a Ferrari Museum. It was a good afternoon trip, but I feel that things were overpriced. I paid 15 euros for a lapel pin!
The CINQUE TERRE - If you're driving, it's better to take the train in from La Spezia. Sorry Rick, I liked Vernazza - it was very quaint, but it was not all that you make it out to be. My favrouite town (we visited all 5) was Monterosso with its old town and new town.
CASTELROTTO: We dubbed this town Little Germany. The food portions were the biggest in all of Italy. We ate exceptionally well at the KELLER restaurant. Very good schnitzel. Everyone was friendly, but there was absolutely nothing to do there that weekend. The road leading into Castelrotto is quite treacherous, so be careful!
NEW BACK DOOR: We also found our own "back door" in the region of Lazio. The town is named Sora, and that's where my dad grew up. It's quite picturesque, and about half way between Napoli and Rome. Very nice, and if you need a home base and don't mind the drive to a larger city, Sora is your place. All in all though, it was the greatest trip, and mom had the best time planning it using Rick's guidebooks.
Sarah, age 15
CAN 03/13/04
Cinque Terre
In February 2004 we hiked the Cinque Terre from Monterosso to Romaggiore. The hike from Monterosso to Vernazza was spectacular and certainly all that we could have ever hoped for. However, upon reaching the beginning of our last leg from Manarola to Riomaggiore we found a disinterested lady, smoking a cigarette, to inform us that there was an extra charge to hike this last leg, the famous and beautiful Via dell'Amore. Expecting wonderful things, we paid the tariff and walked on. The Via dell' Amore was a huge disappointment. Filled with graffiti, the entire way has been defaced and it appears that nothing has been done to even attempt to remove the writing and spray painting. It is a tragedy to allow anything so beautiful as this to be ruined by humans. We noted on the ticket we purchased that the funds charged are used to "maintain" this special place. Unfortunately that is not happening. I am sorry that we didn't stop at Maranola and maintain the memories that we had accumulated at that point. Such information in your book would probably contribute at least to a cleaning up of this stretch of this remarkable place.
Gary Jones
Round Lake, NY USA 03/07/04
The Cinque Terre
While we really enjoyed our trip to Italy in October 2003, we found that nearly every other traveller had a Rick Steves guidebook as well. My boyfriend looked forward to escaping the crowds in Cinque Terre, only to discover a small herd of other tourists making the trek down from the Vernazza train station with us. Don't let this dissuade you from traveling to the Cinque Terre! P.S. To the generous man, traveling Europe with his wife and three daughters, who took our picture atop the Castelo: the picture is gorgeous! We are now using it as our engagement photo. Thank you!
Jen <email>
Chicago, IL USA 03/05/04
Hotel Gritti in Milan
I can't speak highly enough of Hotel Gritti, recommended in your Guide, in the center of Milan. I first stayed there almost two years ago in April 2002, and the staff were exactly as you had described: "jovial gentlemen", who were expert guides to the city and warm hosts, attentive to my stated as well as anticipated needs. The hotel's location is absolutely perfect for exploring the city in any direction, with the Duomo only two blocks away, Brera a 10 minute walk, and buses and metro lines a two minute walk! Two years later the staff recognized me and greeted me like a long lost relative. I understand from the staff that this hotel is a favorite of many Italian business people during the city's often-occurring trade fairs--for the combination of excellent value for the money, perfect location and the trio of professional, bon vivant gentlemen. Also, recent refurbishing has brightened interiors and exteriors. So, in case you haven't been able to visit lately, I wanted to let you know...Hotel Gritti is even better in 2004!
Amanda Newman <email>
San Diego, CA USA 03/02/04
Hotel Posta del Chianti
Hotel Posta del Chianti, outside of Florence, was recommended by a friend who previously stayed there. My party of 4 made reservations, but then found it is 1 1/2 hours outside of Florence. When I cancelled the reservations I was e-mailed that there would be a fee of 30% of room cost. Although this bit of information is in the "Terms and Conditions" it might be missed unless every word was scrutinized. The 30% fee is due to the fact that the reservations were cancelled 50 days before arrival date! The closer to arrival date the more charged for a room never used. Please note this fact shold you be tempted to rmake reservations with this establishment. We won't be.
Karen <email>
Forsyth, GA USA 03/02/04
Orvieto
Stopped in Orvieto without reservations and ended up at the Hotel Duomo, which was superb. Even had an elevator! Great staff, brand new everything and breathtaking rooftop views. Don’t bother with the sour tourist office ladies, just go straight to the Hotel Duomo and the manager will set you up. She also recommended a restaurant, Trattoria Del Moro, which served the most amazing food we had in Italy. Together with the Orvieto wine, we were reluctant to leave. Visited the impressive Duomo, and St. Patrick’s Well (many, many more stairs, but my engineer husband was intrigued.) Wonderful scenic overlooks in that part of town. We didn’t wait around for the English Underground Tours and in retrospect deeply regretted our haste in leaving friendly, charming, invigorating Orvieto.
DS <email>
Minneapolis, MN USA 03/01/04
Where's Sicily?
Your books are great. A big disappointment was that Sicily was in not included!
Diana <email>
Columbia, MD USA 02/27/04
Venice hotel
We loved Venice. We found a great hotel on the island of Lido, less expensive compared to the "main" island. I would suggest Hotel Giardinetto to anyone going to Venice.
mary gross <email>
milwaukee, wi USA 02/27/04
Better Internet Access in Siena II
Mistakenly thought the €1.80 rate is for students only - but it is for everyone.
Wendy B <email>
Lexington, KY USA 02/27/04
Better Internet Access in Siena
During my current two-month stay in Siena, I have tried to find the best Internet access places. One of the recommendations in the Italy book - Internet Point on via Paradiso - while admittedly easy to find (across from McDonald's) - has been a disappointment. I went there many times when I first arrived, but soon realized that it was much more expensive than other places in town (even with student discount) and the environment was unpleasant: the smells of cigarette smoke and nasty plumbing pervaded. Plus, they close in the afternoon (which is quite common for shops), but is really inconvenient - while the other Internet places do not close midday. I personally would not recommend it to anyone when there are much better options in Siena.
In my quest for a new daily "home" from which to e-mail, I came upon a wonderful new place that I think is much more worthy of mention than Internet Point: "Cheap Phone Center" at Via C. Angiolieri #16 - a few blocks off of Piazza del Campo. Owner Stefano is committed to providing a superior Internet experience - and that it is. It is among the most affordable places in Siena and students get an even better rate (€1.80 per hour) with no need to purchase time in bulk. Besides the brand new, flat screen iMacs, there are five phone boxes where one can call the US for €4 per 30 minutes. The atmosphere is enjoyable, great interior design, lighting, jazz and world music playing and they are open every day until 10pm (with plans to extend hours to 1am). Stefano speaks great English and takes good care of his customers. Overall, I find this a great value: financially and aesthetically much more pleasant and comfortable. And if one is going to spend a portion of each day on a computer, these issues are important.
Wendy B <email>
Lexington, KY USA 02/27/04
Siena Sightseeing
In Siena, Quercia's Fountain of Joy, housed in Santa Maria della Scala is closed for renovations as of Feb. 20, 2004. We didn't discover this until after we paid 25 Euros to get in. Ask before you pay.
Anne Rotondo <email>
West Hartford, CT USA 02/24/04
Nice accomodation in Rome
Downtown Accomodation in Rome was our favorite hotel of our 15 days in January in Italy . It is a small family hotel , the room was very clean , spacious , in a perfact location , right to the Collosseum , Roman forum , Palatine Hill , the Capitol , Pantheon ... and only 60 euro per night with breakfast served in the room , we enjoyed our stay and would highly recommend it . www.downtownaccomodation.com
Kathryn Shannon
Florida, USA 02/21/04
Cinque Terre
Just returned from 1 week in the beautiful Cinque Terre. We rented a nice apartment in the town of Levanto, the doorway to the Cinque Terre. E-mail Federico the owner: info@levanto.net , www.levanto.net. He rents different properties in the town.
Norma Dennis
Bellinzona , Switzerland, 02/19/04
Il Pescatore, Villetta Barrea
Last summer we visited Villetta Barrea, a small town in the Abruzzi National Forest. It is beautiful. If you like to hike, bike, horse-back ride, fish, etc., this is the place for you. It is within easy driving distance from Rome. Stay at Il Pescatore, a family-owned and family friendly hotel. They can accomodate a whole family in one room--not easy to find in Europe. Breakfast is included, and there is a restaurant attached for dinner. Alessandra speaks English, Emiliana speaks French, and they all speak Italian!
Mary <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA 02/17/04
Hotel Fasce and Santa Margherita
We call it the Hotel Fascist. The Italian staff is uniformly gracious, but proprietress Jane Fasce is annoyingly imperious. We booked for 5 days but finished our program in 3. So we wanted to leave a day early to add a day to Tuscany, our next destination. No dice. Ms Fasce was going to hold us to the 5 days and she told us that in the rudest way possible. I'm sure it was our mistake for not paying attention to her strict cancellation rules, but what got us peeved was not the penalty, it was how we were treated. She could have easily stuck to her rule without insulting guests who had already spent 400 euros on the establishment. In the end we left early anyway and were prepared to pay the penalty, but she reduced it by half in the final accounting. Nice try, but too late. We already felt bruised by the whole encounter.
Roger Fong <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 02/13/04
Cinque Terre Ruined!
If these guidebooks had anything to do with making Cinque Terre a household word in the U.S., I would rather they'd been burned. I went to Cinque Terre 10 years ago on a honeymoon with my husband, and it was lovely. I returned last summer to find the towns tremendously impacted by the floods of tourists they simply cannot survive. It wasn't just the crowds, it was the attitudes: loud and rude Americans, teenagers throwing up in the streets after drinking binges, Americans rudely insisting on speaking English to confused Italians waiting on them in stores. The restaurants were awful, a travesty of Italian food since they now cater to a transient and non-discriminating population. The physical beauty is still there, but the place is ruined. Even our B & B host, who is certainly making money off of Cinque Terre's "success" said that he thought that those responsible for this "should be shot." I'm not sure I would go that far, but I would certainly never return, and prefer to hold on to my memories of Cinque Terre "molti anni fa." (By the way, we fled after 3 days for a secluded area in the mountains--don't ask me the name).
Amy Prussack <email>
Cambridge, MA USA 02/13/04
France -Entrevaux, car rental
Two weeks in France.... One of the most interesting spots was Entrevaux. I stopped overnight on the Nice-Digne train. I was able to have Smooth Hound system send a fax to Hotel Vauban and got a reservation. They were complete so it was good I had done that. I know of no other lodging in Entrevaux. Very inexpensive with huge rooms. It was without a doubt the best meal I have eaten in France. But careful the hotel only has 8 rooms and is booked lots. Whole group of German cyclists were there with me. One warning the train (Nice Digne) can be quite crowded like a commuter on the early part of the trip and there is no airconditioning. It was very warm in September (thank god it was not in the August heat) Not easy to get around in this area. Ended up taking a very exciting bus trip to Gap to catch trains to Grenoble and Chambery. Found my way through their very helpful tourist info office. Hertz car rental refunded money to me when I took a smaller car. And talk about service, they even let me follow them as they took me to my hotel (Carcasonne).
Anne Horsman <email>
Columbus, OH USA 02/12/04
Italy 2003
I spent two weeks in Italy and two in France. Certainly the french more helpful and kinder people by a factor of 10. In general Italy had it's hand out for money and the french just helped without asking for anything in return except a smile! Rome- Hotel Smeraldo was a great location and staff extremely helpful. Sent me two fabulous restaurants in the neighborhood- one was filled only with Italians. Institute San Salvatore in Orvieto. I had a terrible time finding it. Asked the policeman in the square and he sent me around in the circle as the street was one way (but I was walking). Map or more would have been helpful. Wished I spoke Italian as ended up paying again for the deposit I sent in. Contribution to the church. Hotel was good in Siena but perhaps more warning should be made to travelers in September. They were still celebrating the Palio for the month and there was loud rock music that could be heard until midnight each night. On the other hand the beautiful mosaic floor of the cathedral were unveiled. I was traveling alone and refused service at a restaurant and ate three times in one of your recommendations with good service. As I tip well, it was their loss. Even refused when I arrived at the start of the dinner hour. Sant Margherita- Hotel Fasce Jane helped a young lady who had her bag stolen at the train station and placed me the first night in a lovely large room. She asked to move me the second night which I agreed to. As a result she only charged me 120 euro for three nights lodging. It was truly a shady peaceful and lovely respite. In general the guidebooks need more in the way of maps. I was constantly lost (perdue as the french say) and thought I had taken enough info with me to get a long. Used the scala reale services in Rome and really enjoyed the almost personal tours. Just a bit pricey! Never did find a way to get tap water with dinner and spent a fortune on water in Italy. Lots of warning neds to be regarding the hills to be climbed in Orvieto, Siena, and Assisi. Also was caught at the train station in Venice as I arrived too late on the day of the regatta and there was no transportation from depot until it was over. It was marvelous but a few too many hours. But I was aware before I arrived that it was happening.
Anne Horsman <email>
Columbus, Ohio USA 02/12/04
ADD ELBA!
Last summer, 2003, we traveled using Rick's Italy guidebook. The information was accurate and the towns he suggests are exactly how he describes them. In addition to his suggestions, we went to Elba (an island off the western coast) and LOVED it! It was so beautiful and relaxing! If you go you will not be disappointed. :)
L. Caudill
Bossier City, LA, la USA 02/05/04
Hotel Oceania in Rome
We stayed at the Hotel Oceania for 6 nights. Stefano and the staff were just wonderful to us, especially our kids. We paid 137 euros per night (normally 190 euros) for a family room, by paying cash and mentioning Rick's book. The included breakfast was delicious and probably saved us 15-20 euros a day. The location is convenient and quiet. Anna helpfully arranged reservations for us for the Borghese Gallery and a car service to the airport for our departure. The dining room and lounge are filled with cards and mementos from their customers, including a Christmas card dated 2003 from Rick and family! We would definitely stay there again and highly recommend it.
Jill
Washington , DC USA 02/01/04
RS Books & Puglia photos
RS's Europe guidebook and his Italian phrase book were invaluable! Very helpful to we three women, two of whom went to Italy for the first time. We have posted our pictures at http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/jenart8/album?.dir=/Italy
They are of the lesser known Puglia region along the coast in the heel of the boot, last October. Great coastline, easy traffic, olive groves and "trullis"! Mild weather, no theft, and only a couple of Italian men with "wandering hands."
Cathe <email>
Kent, WA USA 01/28/04
Italian Accommodations
Valentina Rooms in Orvieto was our favorite hotel of our three week stay in Italy. She went out of her way to make sure our stay was perfect. The room was super clean, nicely decorated, spacious, in a perfect location, and only 60 euros a night. She even e-mailed us after our trip to make sure we arrived home safely. I would recommend her rooms to anyone.
Civita was breathtaking. Alma Domus in Siena was unfriendly. Hotel Fenicia in Rome is perfectly located and friendly. We were staying in Hotel Magic, the mattresses were so uncomfortable that we had to go down stairs to a Hotel Fenicia. Locanda San Trovaso in Venice was quiet and perfectly located but expensive. Ostello le Sirene in Sorrento was miserable. It is on a busy street and very noisy.
The Cinque Terre and Pompeii were the highlights of our trip. Although we weren't mugged in Naples, the Archeological Musuem was disappointing and the city was scary. We would not go back.
Tyler Stevens <email>
Kaysville, UT USA 01/25/04
Hotel Fasce & Santa Margherita
We loved S. Margherita but the Hotel Fasce was a different story. Jane tried to charge us a different (higher) rate than quoted, she refused to provide an additional fan, or another room for my mother during the heat wave last summer(which she had) yelled at our child for a small spill in the dining room and overall made us uncomfortable and angry.
Debra Chase
Rye, NH USA 01/24/04
Albergo Olivedo, on Lake Como
When my husband and I stayed with Laura at the Olivedo in Varenna, we were extremely pleased with her friendliness, wonderful service and the best food we had on our whole trip. For example, when she found out we were leaving early morning to catch our train and was going to miss breakfast, she packed us a sack breakfast of fruit and cheese to take on the train. She didn't have to do that and it was a surprise we still talk about. Also, the view from the rooms is awesome. One night it had been raining but because of the canopy over the hotel's outdoor restaurant, we were able to sit over a couple of drinks & watch the surrounding villages light up the lake...it was absolutely beautiful. We highly recommend Albergo Olivedo (and Laura)
Linda <email>
Somonauk, IL USA 01/20/04
New Year's in Italy 2004
A friend of mine checked out "Rick Steves' Italy 2003" from the library for our very recent trip to Italy. What a lifesaver it turned out to be! Knowing that someone was recommending places to sleep and eat because of personal experiences (including the special prices), made us more comfortable with our day-to-day decisions. We did have a few not-so-good experiences (the specifics will be posted very soon) but overall the book was great!
Casa Rabatti in Florence was the best! It added something special to our trip at a time when we really needed it. Marcella was so nice, despite her husband being in the hospital. The language barrier didn't get in the way, especially when she shared some Christmas cake (Panettone) and spumanti wine with us. What a sweet lady! I'll be using Rick Steves to assist in the planning of future trips to Europe!
Georgia <email>
Chicago, IL USA 01/19/04
Tour of Italy and Malta
My son and I just got back from a 5 week trip of Italy and Malta. I stayed in some great places like the Hotel Arlecchino in Venice, Hotel Bellevue in Florence and Smart BnB with Isa in Rome. I did have to move out of the Smart BnB due to lack of heat in mid-Dec. But Isa found me a great deal on a nice hotel near the Colosseum. My favorite part of Italy? It would have to be Syracuse, Sicily. Stay with the nuns in the convent across from hotel Domus Maria. I had a view of the ocean, huge room and bath for 40 euros. This included a free breakfast at the fancy hotel nearby. Eat and watch the sunset at Bruno's place of Sapori di Sicilia. Syracuse beats Taormina hands down in my eyes. But then I am not much of a shopper! Email me if you questions at taliesin@gci.net
Karin <email>
Anchorage, AK USA 01/17/04
Our experience in Florence, Rome and the Amalfi Coast
In August of 2003 I took a cruise in Europe. We visited Spain, France and 3 ports in Italy. I was weary of booking the side trips throught the cruise line, first of all they were so expensive and second of all you didn't see enough of the cities. I did some research and came up with Benvenuto Limos. After 19 e-mail's back and forth with Giovanni trying to arrange 2 vans in each of the 3 ports for 12 people, I have to say we had the time of our lives. All of our tour guides were wonderful and took us to see things that weren't even listed in the cruise excursions. And to top it all off he was half the price of the cruise line's trips!. Needless to say I would and have recommended Benvenuto to anyone who will be in Italy, Giovanni is wonderful and has become a pen pal! www.benvenutolimos.com
Joanne Ferris <email>
NYC, USA 01/15/04
Rome's Pantheon not open on holidays
We just returned from Italy and literally drove from Venice to Rome. What a trip. Your book had tons of great information. The only correction I would like to suggest is regarding the Pantheon. Rick Steves' Italy 2004 states that the Pantheon is open holidays from 9:00-13:00. We went to the Pantheon on New Year's Day and it was closed. We asked a gentleman if it would open and he stated that it is never open on holidays. Thank you for a great book.
John Michae Lerma <email>
Saint Paul, MN USA 01/14/04
Escape from Rome
We have traveled to Rome about five times. The first time, I drove into the city and found a hotel. For small town folk, it was more than traumatic. In 1998 we were traveling towards Rome, and pulled off the autostrada at Attigliano, which is about 40 miles north of Rome and about 17 miles south of Orvieto. We followed the signs to Hotel Rosanna, what a wonderful surprise. They treated us like family, in a great family run hotel and restaurant. It's a very quaint, cozy, place, where we stayed two days in 1998, 2000 and 2002. The cost of a double room then was about $47. They directed us to the train station, which makes travel to Rome easy. For about $8 per person, you get a round trip ticket to Rome, which also includes ground transportation in Rome for a twenty-four hour period. The main train station is attached to the main tram station. Wow! Hotel Rosanna has a great website, check it out if you're headed for Rome some day. www.hotelrosanna.com
Tom Maddox <email>
Jonesboro, IN USA 01/13/04
Senior Independent Travel
Many thanks Rick. You made our trip so much more enjoyable. We went to Italy and your book was so much help. Your hotel and restaurant recommendations were right on! We loved the Lakes country (Varenna & Bellagio) and also Tuscany, particularly Siena. Your guides to the museums and sights of Florence and Venice were great. We also loved "Europe Through The Back Door" and found the hints on conversation, train tips, etc. so much help. We went to Switzerland (including the Berner Oberland) Italy, and France (incl. Nice & Paris) and never had a problem with the help of your books.
This was our first European trip, planned solely by us. We are two seniors and were a little nervous because it was during the Iraq war, and weren't sure how Americans would be greeted. But the people couldn't be nicer if you attempted some simple greetings and conversation in their language. Your menu translater & phrase book was an invaluable tool! We had a ball and can't wait to plan another adventure. If anyone out there needs more info. let us know. We actually met another Rick Steves fan and fellow Oregonian in a tiny cafe in Murren (Swiss alps)
Doris Ebanks <email>
Woodburn, OR USA 01/09/04
"Downtown Accomodation" Rooms, Rome
We were in Rome for the first time in January , we stayed at the 2-star "Downtown Accomodation" roomsfor 3 nights. It's a clean and nice place, close to the most important monuments such as the Colosseum , the Roman Forum , Piazza Venezia... They were very friendly and helpful and such awonderful location. If we come back to Rome , we will for sure stay there again. Their website is www.downtownaccomodation.com
Roberta Michele
Louisiana, USA 01/08/04
Sorrento--Hotel Desiree
We agree that the owner and staff at the Hotel Desiree were so warm and helpful that we also extended our stay there by 3 days. & days total in Sorrento was even barely enough, as it is a great base for Capri, Pompeii, Herculaneum, Amalfi coast and many other beautiful places to spend time in.
Donna and Dave Moore
Pittsburgh, Pa USA 01/08/04
Sorrento-Hotel Desiree
I traveled end of October 2003 from Florence to Sorrento, with a stop over in Rome. I followed Rick's suggestion as using Sorrento as my springboard while in the South to visit Capri, Amalfi and Pompeii. This worked out lovely.
Firstly, Florence, I was in awe. If you are an art lover and plan on going to Florence and Rome, I highly recommend Ross King's "Michelangelo and the Pope's Ceiling" as a read.
Sorrento: Enough cannot be said about the Hotel Desiree in Sorrento, on via del Capo. I arrived in Sorrento, fresh off the train and called the first place I found in Rick's chapter for Naples and the Amalfi Coast - Sorrento. They were extremely helpful and friendly, which was just what I needed since I discovered traveling in Italy, alone is a bit of a challenge. Each day before I set out they loaded me up with maps, safety tips, bus and train schedules and suggestions of what I should try and see depending on where I was headed. I enjoyed the comforts of this home like atmosphere so much I extended my stay in Sorrento. Bravo Hotel Desiree.
Aliceson <email>
VA USA 01/07/04
Italy , Venice, Florence, Rome
Just back from a 2 week Christmas tour of Italy.
Venice: 3 nights at Hotel Mercurio, great place near San Marco. Dont miss the Ducal Palace, and the glass makers in Murano were incredible. Its hard to get a good meal there but we love Venice. On to Lucca: a facinating and relaxing place to visit.
In Florence we stayed at Alessandra Pezzatis' and it was wonderful. Large clean rooms with a fridge in the Oltrano area. We stayed 3 nights and I wish we had stayed longer.
Assisi is OK to visit but Orviento is much more interesting unless you are really into St. Francis.
In Rome we recommend Hotel Smeraldo, right in the middle of things and great rooms. You pay more to stay near the action but you can walk almost anywhere. Pickpockets were bad in Rome this year. Ladies holding a fake baby tried to get me, another attempt we witnessed in the subway. Walk the Roman forum at night, beautiful. If you want to see the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel, go offseason. The lines were amazing. There is so much to do in Rome that you could do your entire trip here.
Anywhere you go in Italy, see the churches! And bring along a compass. A map is tough to read when you can't find north!
Eric <email>
Tulsa , Ok USA 01/05/04