Mouthwatering Italy: 2002
When you take your tongue out sightseeing in Italy, what are its favorite taste treats?
Venice Trattoria
Trattoria ai Cugnai Piscina in Venice was wonderful. The food was first
class and Ricks "three grumpy sisters" weren't. Spaghetti with Black Squid
ink was a first time treat.
Bob Kelly <email>
Falls Church, VA USA 12/15/02
Supermercato
A Supermercato! — After paying the high prices for bottles of water, etc.
in the "tourist" areas, we knew there had to be a 'supermarket' type store
somewhere — Sure enough, right near the Pantheon on Via Giustiniani is the
best little 'supermercato' you could ask for! — It had everything/anything
you would want, all at real prices!- Our only regret is that we didn't stumble
across it sooner! — It saved us a bundle on the little things you need every
day!
Debra <email>
Orem, UT USA 12/10/02
Pizzeria near Vatican City
Just got back from a quick romp through Europe last week, and Rick Steves'
book was awesome! Here are some Rome comments: 1. I stumbled across an AWESOME
take-away pizza place between the Vatican City and St. Peter's: Pizza al
taglio. The address is 7-9 Via Delle Grazie. 2. FYI: the Capital Hill museums
are NOT free the last Sunday of every month.
Spencer <email>
San Gabriel, CA USA 12/04/02
Restaurants in Assisi and Cremona
We visited Cremona Italy in October and on our way to Milan from Venice,
we were fortunate to detour to the city of Cremona, well known for violin
manufacture. This is one of those places not found in tour guidebooks but
a treasure worth discovering! We had dinner at the Ristorante al Portico,
Via Nino Bixio, 12, Tel. (0372) 45.12.61, we were delighted by the food,
reasonable prices and warm hospitality. Closed Wednesdays. We also visited
Assisi and ate a magnificent dinner at Locanda del Podestб, Via San
Giacomo. 6/c-06081, tel.075 813034. Closed Wednesdays. We highly recommend
both restaurants. We would love to visit these places again Georgino
Georgino <email>
Oregon city, OR USA 11/27/02
Abruzzo
My wife and I just came back from six weeks in Europe. We did 6,000 miles
in a car, and by far one of the most surprising areas we discovered was
Abruzzo. We based in Fossacesia on the coast in the Hotel Levante $60.00
per night — huge breakfast and the hotel was only six months old! Incredible
value. The restaraunt at the hotel was wonderful also. They have a websight
(hotellevante.it) We also ate a GREAT restaraunt in the town of Notarresco
called, Osteria dei Sani. Local food, with an owner who makes his own olive
oil, and prices you wouldn't believe! We had lunch for two with a bottle
of wine (good stuff!) and the cost was $11.00. Don't miss this one!
Dave <email>
seattle, wa USA 11/16/02
Baia Chia — Rome
Baia Chia is a fantastic Sardinian restaurant just off Via Merulana, not
far from the Santa Maria Maggiore basilica. Food is wonderful, service is
super-friendly (while the staff doesn't speak English, they seem to get
their point across), and the prices are quite reasonable. The menu is heavy
with seafood, most of which is fresh. The antipasto "buffet" is not to be
missed: they load your table up with little dishes of all kinds of wonderful
delights to you to pick and choose from. Don't miss this place!
Gordon <email>
Jurbise, Belgium 11/11/02
Ristorante Magna, Rome
We found a nice & moderately priced restauraunt in Rome that is about 8
walking blocks from Hotel Oceana, where we stayed in July. It is Ristorante
Magna, Via Milano 47 (tel 06.4883989). BTW, we roughly followed the 21-day
itinerary in Italy 2002 and found it excellent.
Tim McSweeney <email>
Los Gatos, CA USA 11/10/02
Il Nido Hotel & Restaurant in Sorrento
Il Nido hotel & restaurant in Sorrento is fantastic! Great location, huge
rooms & bathrooms, wonderful views. The food is mouthwatering and the prices
can't be beat! The staff is super-friendly (my son loved the ride up and
down the hill in the minibus, comparing it to a thrill ride at an amusement
park!). Stay here, it can't be beat. Check out their webcam and menu online
(www.ilnido.com). You won't be disappointed!
Gordon <email>
Jurbise, Belgium 11/04/02
Rome-Trattoria Dell'Omo
Upon a recommendation we found on this graffiti wall, as well as a recommendation
from our B&B in Rome, we recently dined at the Trattoria Dell'Omo in Rome,
on Via Vicenza, two blocks from Termini station. Unfortunately, it was the
worst dining experience of our entire trip to central/southern Italy. At
first it struck us as authentic and quaint, a local "working man's" place
to eat: only one menu for the whole restaurant to share, grumpy Papa waiting
tables, Mama cooking in the back. The quaintness wore off quickly. After
having the menu first thrust at us, then snatched back before we could decide,
we finally got a hold of it long enough to choose. When we ordered, we were
told, "we're out of that." So we chose something else, only to hear, "we're
out of that too." Our third choice elicited the same response, then the
waiter stormed off. He later came back and suggested a Chicken Cacciatore
dish, saying it was good, so both my wife and I ordered that, in addition
to an appetizer of prosciutto and Parmesan cheese. When the order finally
came, he brought us the ham, only ONE order of chicken, and then dashed
off before we could correct him and get the second order of chicken. We
tried for 30 minutes, as we both fed off the single plate, to flag him down
to no avail. When we finally decided enough was enough, we tried to get
the bill. Again, no luck. In the end we borrowed the sole menu from another
table, figured out the bill ourselves, left more than enough to cover the
total, and walked out. This was the only time in Italy we left a restaurant
hungry. The chicken was good...too bad we couldn't get any more of it. I
have no problem with selections being unavailable due to selling out, or
the limitations of the day's market haul, but these should be advised up
front. Both the father and son are two of the most unprofessional and rude
waiters I have ever encountered anywhere. Even a table of locals sitting
next to us, watching this farce unfold, shrugged and apologized for the
service. While you may want to dine somewhere "authentic" in Rome, avoid
this place like the plague. Rather, eat at the wonderful (and wonderfully
friendly) Sardinian restaurant, Baia Chia, just off Via Merulana, not far
from the Santa Maria Maggiore basilica (see separate entry on this wall).
Gordon <email>
Jurbise, Belgium 11/04/02
Florence and Rome
One of our favorite dining experiences in Italy was C'est Ce Ce in Florence.
The food was truly delicious and the people were warm and friendly. It was
like something out of central casting for a fine little Italian restaurant.
We had our pictures taken with the staff and carried on with neighbors in
the abutting tables until we had to yield to incoming customers. When we
had earlier met a couple in Rome at Osteria da Mario, they told us they
had liked Ce Ce so much that they returned the next night to have the same
dishes. Unlike a previous poster, we were not impressed with Osteria da
Mario in Rome. The food seemed average at best. We were seated in the back
and there was an unpleasant odor, which we couldn’t escape because
they couldn’t reseat us. The cover charge (pane) was 3.5 euros each
and without asking the staff put a 2 euro bottle of water 3.2 euros worth
of bruschetta on the table. Thus, we had run up a 12.2 euro bill before
we began to order. Almost all the patrons waiting at opening time were Americans
and most had Rick Steves books in their hands.
Tim <email>
Oak Forest, IL USA 10/26/02
Two great Tratttorias
Two recommendations, Rome: Ristorante Due Colonne, (near Pantheon) Via del
Seminario 122 Rome, (06-67-81-449). We ate there twice, young owner, place
is open all day....had lunch there one day fresh pasta, mozarella and chopped
tomatoes and bruchetta. Sounds plain, was delicious....and went back for
dinner next night, excellent veal, panacotta for dessert. Cost for dinner(roughly
with a 15E bottle of wine) appetizer, desserts about 55E for two. Lunch
was very reasonable. Another Trattoria "Gino" near Piazza di firenze, Chiuso
La Domenica (behind Parlament) 06-6873434. All locals, family business,
nephew, spoke enough English. We found it by accident wandering the side
streets. Opens about 7:30 pm. Great atmosphere, we ended up at a table in
front of hostess stand (reservations urged) but it was soo...good and interesting
that it was part of experience. Very reasonable. Delicious tiramasu, and
veal.
Linda <email>
Cambridge, MA USA 10/25/02
Lunch in Florence
If you are in Florence, definitely go to I Fratellini on Via dei Cimatori
for lunch. (It's in Rick's book.) That place has the best sandwiches ever.
Try the #15 (quindici) or the #20 (veinti)...15 is tuscan salami and goat
cheese and 20 is roast pork. They were both soooooooo good! One of each
sandwich and a glass of Lambrusco dolce (sparkling sweet red wine) was the
best lunch experience I've ever had. And the sandwiches are only 2.10 Euros!
I think the wine was about $2, too. I'm hungry just thinking about those
sandwiches. It would be a sad event to go to Florence without eating at
I Fratellini.
Traci <email>
Studying in London, UK 10/24/02
Gelato
Gelateria dei Neri in Florence is excellent! Try the Bagnolata and the Crema
di Giotto. Bagnolata is coffee and cream and chocolate, and Crema di Giotto
is hazlenut, coconut, and something else. Very good. Also, most gelaterie
have a flavor called "Noccioloso" or "Bacio" (I think Bacio) that's hazelnut
and chocolate...wonderful. Tastes like Nutella.
Traci <email>
Studying in London, UK 10/24/02
Bettona, near Assisi, Umbria
We stayed at an excellent agriturismo, "Il Cerreto", in Bettona, near Assisi.
They gave us a ride from the guest house to their restaurant. When you get
out, you could smell all the pigs at the end of the driveway. Inside, you
don't get a menu, they just bring you good food. The youngest son who is
learning English in school would come to your table and announce what everything
was. They served food from their farm which the mother made fresh each day.
There were five or six different things on an antipasto plate, good bread
with excellent olive oil, the best pasta we had in all of Italy (the only
place where it was hand rolled with a wooden rolling pin rather than run
through a metal machine, and they even brought us more without asking, I
guess the son could tell we enjoyed it), a meat dish (we had chicken one
night, duck the next), some fruit for desert, and a biscotti-like cookie
and liquer (very strong). Amazingly, besides being our best meals, they
were also our cheapest dinners. And the breakfasts were much better than
I expected. Fresh juice, warm milk, good bread, and very good cheeses and
cured meats. The family and other tourists (mostly Italian, one German family)
were extremely friendly and enjoyed trying to talk to us.
E <email>
Princeton, NJ USA 10/10/02
Eating near Montepulciano
Beware eating at Villa Nottola restaurant, part of farm, accommodation and
wine tasting. Tho restaurant is described as 'smart' in brochure, service
is far from smart. It is rather geared for large parties. Dont eat there
if you are 3-6 people — service is bad. Food indifferent and expensive when
compared to other local places.
Ian Coull <email>
Coupar Angus, Perthshire, UK 10/07/02
Eating in Italy
Beware of Harry's Bar, Venice. Lunch: 2 drink each for a party of 3, one
sandwich each, one piece of cake. E300.00 ouch!! I knew it would be expensive,
but I was clueless.
Ann <email>
OR USA 10/04/02
Pigging out in Vernazza, Tuscany and Florence
Vernazza — 1st tip...make a restaurant reservation ("prenotazione")for dinner
if you plan on eating after 8:00 PM. 2nd tip...Plan on gaining weight!!!
Gnocchi pesto & tagliata at Trattoria del Capitano. Scampi e Gamberi at
Gambero Rosso. Pesto Lasagna at la Torre (best for lunch). Pastries for
breakfast at Il Piratta.
Florence — again make reservations. Cinghiale Bianco has great primi pasta (try the ravioli with duck sauce or strozzapreti al burro) also Osteria Porcellino has great food with less tourists (be prepared to dress your best at this place).
Tuscany — if you are driving, the little town of San Quirico d'Orcia(located near Pienza)is a great stop for lunch. We had lunch at Il Tanaio, sitting outside with a view of this sleepy town's church. Try the Pici pasta and the peccorino cheese plate. What a great, away from the tourist traps, lunch!
Last tip — Try Nocciola (hazelnut) flavored gelato at any of the places
Rick recommends. Works best with Tiramisu flavored next to it!
Ed and Chantal <email>
Pasadena, CA USA 09/29/02
Thoughts on Italy
In order to save money in Italy, we brought breakfast bars withus and had
those for breakfast instead of cappuchinos etc. This gave us more money
for gelato. If you're in FLorence the best gelato place is on Via Faenza
off the San Lorenzo markets.
Rachel <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 09/26/02
sacred & profane restaurant,roma
we just returned from Italy. Rick was right about all recommendations save
one, The "Sacred & Profane" restaurant in Rome was awful. The waiter was
inattentive,an Aussie who told us not to order the house Chiati and brought
some harsh & expensive substitute. You would fare better on the street.
h. seaton <email>
potomac, md USA 09/24/02
Rome Restaurant
My husband and I dined at a nice and quaint restaurant near the Pantheon — one block east from the northeast corner of the Pantheon's piazza — called
Restaurant Antonio. The vegetable antipasta, which I think was marinated,
was great and we both had the sauteed artichoke hearts as a main course
(we're vegetarians). The food was uncomplicated, tasty, and well prepared.
The family staff was friendly and congenial, and live entertainment of strolling
musicians made its way into the restaurant while we were dining. The dinner
was reasonably priced — I think about 40 euros. It was my favorite dinner
during our 2-week tour of Italy.
Karen B.
Denver, CO USA 09/24/02
Great food, great service, great setting in Venice
I read Martiey Miller's 6/12/02 recommendation for Flastavia e Mansaniello
and printed it out to take with me on my August trip. The name of the restaurant
is actually Hostaria é Masaniello, but the way it's printed on the menu
would lead you to believe otherwise. It was even better than described.
The Insalata Caprese had the best tomatoes and the best Mozzarella I
have ever had. Ivana, the owner, and Amadeo and Luca, our waiters spoke
English very well. We had lunch there on our first day in Venice. We enjoyed
the food and the restaurant so much that we ate dinner there 2 nights
later, and lunch the day we left. Everything was excellent, and we were
treated like royalty. (I just mailed them the pictures that I took of
them.) For those who have not been, it is across the bridge from the Accademia
vaporetto stop. It's the first cafe on the right (with blue tablecloths)
in the first square. They bring a complimentary bruschetta that is so
fresh and delicious, and we were there so much, that we sampled the lemon,
melon, chocolate, and one or 2 other of the after-meal liqueurs that are
also on the house. You'll love it!
Melissa Bowra <email>
Schinnen, NL 09/21/02
Dining in CT
For a fabulous dining experience, go to Il Castello in Vernazza (get reservations
if you can). The views are amazing, the food is delicious, and the atmosphere
is very real. Be sure to ask Mario for his special dessert!
Ryan Candee <email>
Brooklyn, NY USA 09/20/02
Cinque Terre
We just returned from ten days in the Cinque Terre. We stayed in Levanto
(not just the gateway to Cinque Terre) and we discovered its hamlets and
undiscovered little beaches inside the Cinque Terre National Marine Park.
The hamlets were astonishing, just the picture of "once upon a time": ancient houses, old windmills, you can even find abandoned stone wheels that were once used to make olive oil.
We ate the best spaghetti alle vongole and had an incredible pizza at
Antica Taverna Garibaldi in the center of Levanto. Try the Cinque Terre
pizza — mmmmmm!! Another must is the cacao soufflè with homemade ice
cream.
Carl Mudder
USA 09/11/02
Bar Il Piratta, Vernazza
Aside from Vernazza being absolutely the BEST of the five villages, this
bar is IT!! Along with the "terrible twins," their incredibly beautiful
& sweet sister Sonia will serve you the most wonderful, fresh Sicilian "granita"(in
season, try the fresh fig) or true Sicilian coffee topped with fresh cream:
pure decadence. I think in a past life Gian-Luca may have been one of those
pastry chefs who went to the French court with Ms. Borgia, to teach them
how to cook! For those traveling by car, there is the added bonus that the
bar is by the 'stop' for the little bus that will take you back up the hill
to the parking lot.
Linda St. Quintin <email>
Milford, Pa USA 09/10/02
Eating Chinese in Italy
After several weeks of pasta (and good pasta it was too, but still...),
we went to a Chinese restaurant in Italy, and can recommend trying "other" cuisines in Italy. the restaurant we went to was in the Lecco (on Lago di
Como) suburb of Galbiate (kind of an industrial area by day, but quiet at
night) — Nuova China Town, Via E. Monti 25. 24 euros for two main courses,
with rice, chinese beer, and 2 fancy gelato desserts. It was as good as
the Chinese food we have at home in San Francisco area, and fun trying to
converse with the Chinese waiters in Italian. We saw Chinese restaurants
in many Italian towns.
Mary Rankin <email>
San Anselmo, CA USA 08/20/02
Pizzeria Aurora
While in Sorrento, Pizzeria Aurora (at Piazza Tasso) served the best pizza
I've eaten in all of Italy, including anything in Naples. The only problem
about having had such incredible meals in Italy is that now whenever I go
to my favorite Italian restaurants here at home, they somehow just don't
seem to compare!
Erica Hovile
San Jose, CA USA 08/20/02
Positano
When in Positano, forget what the guidebooks say and eat at Ristorante da
Vincenzo (84017 Positano — 172/178, v. Pasitea tel: 089/875128). Everything
they make is fresh and delicious. It's a small family owned place at the
top of the (horrible climb!) stone stairs. Well worth the climb though,
and after dinner you can enjoy a walk down the street thru town. Apart from
making wonderful food with local produce, they are so nice and really take
care of you. Lots of locals and people who've eaten there before. I've been
to Positano a few times and really, it's the best restaurant in town. Ciao.
Chris P <email>
LA, CA USA 08/19/02
Vernazza — great pastries
Vernazza, Cinque Terre, There's a new spot in town. Il Pirrata della 5 Terre
(near the post office), opened by two Sicilian brothers 4 months ago, to
rave reviews by locals and tourists alike. Get there before 10am for an
incredibly mouth watering selection of pastries made in house by one of
the two brothers — Jean Luc, an award winning pastry chef straight from
Sicily which is known by Italians as having the best pastries in Italy.
The locals crowd in early and snap up the pastries so get there early and
chat up the gregarious Massimo behind the bar with your pastry and cappucio
(the local slang for cappucino)!
trina kudlacek <email>
Corvallis, OR USA 08/14/02
Thai food in Como
Being from an international dining city like SF really opened my eyes to
food. I just got back from six weeks in Italy and got tired of the food
there. Most of it was great but I was just tired of eating Pasta. I Needed
a change and found a great Thai restaurant in Como, Ristorante Thailandese
via Milano 129 , 22100 Como #031-26-17-79. The chef/owner Mr. Jin, can cook
about anything. give him a try...
C <email>
San Francisco, ca USA 08/13/02
Volterra — La Tavernetta
If you find yourself in the wonderful hilltown of Volterra, try dinner at
La Tavernetta, upstairs at Via Guarnacci, 14 (between the Porta Fiorentina & the Piazza dei Priori). There's a bar downstairs, the restaurant upstairs
opens at 6:30 for dinner. Spectacular frescoed ceiling which is crying out
for restoration. We ate there 3 nights, at a cost of 25-30 euros each night
(that includes a mixed salad each, and our main course, and a couple beers).
I loved the ravioli in nut sauce (ravioli filled with cremed spinach, and
nut sauce was walnuts in a cream sauce). My husband gave a big thumbs up
to the fried prawns — this isn't a town where you'd normally think of getting
seafood, but he likes prawns, so he tried them, and not only was the amount
very generous, they were cooked to perfection, very tasty.
Mary Rankin <email>
San Anselmo, CA USA 08/08/02
A Fabulous Taste of Roma!!!!
I would like to share with everyone some information about the best ristorante
in Rome. It is called Da Giovanni ar Galletto and is located in the Piazza
Farnese near Vicolo del Gallo. The food is absolutely wonderful and the
eating experience is unlike any other. My favorite dish was the Fettucini
con Zucci (I think I spelled that correctly!). It had to be the best meal
I have ever eaten and not very expensive. Also, the waiters are very flirtatious
toward the woman customers (as most Italian waiters are) but a little extra
here. Ladies, this is a great place to bring your girlfriends for an evening
of great food and very cute Italian waiters. Guys, go for the food but don't
bring your wives. Another great ristorante is PierLuigi. I am not sure where
it is located but it also has excellent Italian cuisine. Go early because
later in the evening tables are scarce, mostly taken by those with reservations.
Same goes for the other ristorante I mentioned. Try these two ristorantes.
You won't be disappointed!!!
Julie McD.
Beavercreek, OH USA 08/04/02
Rome restaurants
Rome is synonymous with great food, but one place that we found by accident
last year deserves mention. It may be the osteria that Rob A from Seattle
described- the directions sound right- to clarify,it is Osteria del Sostegno
at Via delle Colonnelle,5. Go out of the Pantheon square diagonally past
Tazza de Oro and into Piazza Capranica,then to the left onto via Colonnelle.All
you will see is a green neon sign that says Trattoria hanging above the
street.The place is just up the alley and has a few outdoor tables and a
small indoor dining room.Last year my wife and I and some friends wandered
in here and it was empty but we were so starved that we decided to stay
Best thing we ever did! Alberto the waiter will recommend specials made
from fresh market items that aren't on the menu,although the regular menu
items are tremendous too.The prices are very moderate,(the good house white
wine is almost dangerously so)and the pastas are served to you at the table
right out of the pan.By the time we left,all the other tables were filling
up-for good reason.My wife and I returned to Italy this June with our three
kids and took them there on our first night in Rome.They loved it and they
requested to go back there on our last night.All the same staff were still
there from last year;Alberto is funny and helpful-even gave our son a backrub
one night when he wasn't feeling great and was very enthusiastic about giving
my daughters a goodbye kiss on our last night in Rome- a highlight of our
trip.As an alternative,both trips we went to Rick's suggested Ristorante
Grotte del Teatro di Pompeo near Campo de Fiori. It's another place that
fills up fast later in the evening.
Gary P
Ellsworth, WI USA 08/04/02
Good Restaurant In Roma
In Rome, Armand's Ristorante, very good food, moderate prices, excellent
service. Facing front door of the Pantheon turn right and go down that side
street. Armand's is half-way down the block. Definitely better than the
higher priced trattorias in the Pantheon Piazza!
Pat Mersbach <email>
Long Valley, NJ USA 08/02/02
Best cheap food in Rome
In the student district, a block or two off Tiburtina (sp?), there are many
street restaurants + good pizza places.
John Callaway
Copenhagen, DK 07/30/02
Didn't like Hostario Romano? Try some Paradisio.
I am saddened by Neda and Jean's opinion of Hostaria Romano. When my husband
and I went in October of 2001, that was one of the highlights of our trip.
Could things have changed so much? We spent a week in Ireland before going
to Italy and happened to stay at a B&B with another couple of travelers
from Italy who had lived over 60 years in Venice and spoke very little English.
I was able to practice my Italian and they told us of a wonderful restaurant
in the ghetto section called Paradisio Perdutto. They couldn't give us a
specific address, but told us to go to the ghetto and ask locals. The squid
with pasta in black sauce was delicious, but the vegetables were to die
for. One of our best memories from the trip is of wandering around the streets
of Venice asking "Dove Paradisio Perdutto?" to anyone who looked local.
Susan & Nick <email>
Wilmington, DE USA 07/26/02
Eating in Sorrento, Italy
I have to put my 2 cents in as well. Not only is Sorrento, Italy my new
favorite vacation spot, but the restaurant Osteria Gatto Nero (see Rick's
Italy 2002 book) gets a five star rating as well. The service is a little
slow by U. S. standards but the food is very fresh, it is all made from
scratch, and it is EXCEPTIONAL. Be sure to try the assorted seafood and
pasta dish.it is out if this world! The first night we went my Dad was confused
by the lira listing on the bill and ending up paying 147 euros for an 87
euro bill (by the way that's 87 euros for fresh seafood for 3 adults, 3
courses, and 6 glasses of wine). The waiter/owner ended up chasing us down
the street to give us the extra money back. Needless to say, we went back
to eat dinner there for the two remaining days that we stayed in Sorrento.
Erin Burress <email>
Richardson, TX USA 07/24/02
Pizzas and Suppli
Ok, we went to Paris first and practically starved. Hated the food there.
We were so happy to get to Rome and pig out on Italian food. I couldn't
believe how good the food was, and how cheap it was. A full dinner for two
for $22?? I think I gained 10 lbs in 3 days in Rome, and I loved every minute
of it. Obviously, pizza is great.It's not greasy, and it's also super cheap.
They bake them in these big squares and you just indicate how big of a cut
you want. They charge you by the weight. A good size piece will cost you
about $2.50. Our greatest discovery in Italy was the suppli. These are usually
sold in pizzerias. They are balls of rice and mozzarella cheese that are
deep fried and absolutely delicious! They normally cost about 60 cents and
they will fill you up for a couple of hours. Do me a favor, when you get
to Italy, have a few for me!
Greg L <email>
San Jose, Ca USA 07/23/02
Varenna
Nilus Bar recommended in Rick's book was fantastic! We ate there each of
the 3 days we spent in Varenna. Nothing fancy- umbrella tables by the lake.
Awesome panini, crepes & pizza and killer lake view. The gelateria next
door is great, too!
Andrea
NY USA 07/20/02
THE best pizza in Florence!
I had the BEST pizza I have ever had in my life in Florence. The name of
the place Is "Il Vino Del Guelfi" I was in Florence on a bank holiday nothing
else was open and was walking to the Palazzo Pitti, when the smell just
coaxed me in.... It is on the Via Guiccardini 42. halfway between the Ponte
Vecchio and the Palazzo Pitti. It is in a little mall all the way in the
back. Their sauce is superb, sweet with just the right spice... the crust
crispy, and the Prosciutto is well, just incredible. Their other dishes
are equally delectable. I ate there several times during my stay.
Erik Walton <email>
San Diego, CA USA 07/19/02
More on Siena Pasta
Have to add my comments to "Siena Pasta" below. I don't remember the name
of the restaurant where we ate in Siena, but we received the same fare...in
the same "dinner ware"! I was totally right out of the microwave!! The restaurant
was located on the piazza Il Campo. At that point we all decided to never
eat in a place located in a high tourist area. I always heard that you can't
get a bad meal in Italy...well you can in Siena!
MWC
Raleigh, NC USA 07/19/02
Great eating in Verona, Stresa, Varenna
Just returned from a 10-day vacation in northern Italy. Had great luck with
restaurants. Here are our suggestions. (I hope my spelling is somewhat accurate.).
Verona: Taverna del Stella. It's just around the corner from Juliette's "house." The food was fantastic and the service was excellent. The waiter was very helpful & friendly. We followed his recommendations on everything (I always ask!) and we were not disappointed. The menu is in Italian, English, and German. They also have a bar where they have incredible looking appetizers at bar-time. We didn't get a chance to check that out, but next time we will. (Note: This restaurant is part of the "Slow Food" movement, which originated in Italy.)
Stresa: We ate at two guidebook-recommended places for dinner, but my favorite meal was lunch at the Red Baron Cafe (just below the train station). It was my first official pannini of the trip and it remained the best pannini of our trip. The Italian owners must love the Red Baron — can't explain the name — but the sandwiches are great. Also, because it's not in the middle of the touristy Stresa, it's not that crowded. Also, a great bar in Stresa is the Irish Bar. It's right in the thick of things. Lots of locals and tourists (of all ages), but fun atmosphere.
Varenna: Ate at two Rick Steves' recommended places: Ristorante Oliveda and Ristorante del Sole (on the square). Oliveda was fantastic. Take Laura's recommendations. The homemade specialties and fish dishes were great; the tiramisu gave me new hope in this popular dessert. Tip: Study the menu posted outside the restaurant carefully before you sit down. Three minutes after you're seated, Laura stands before you and recites the entire menu, asking you to select from one of 15 things she just mentioned. Your eyes spin and you want to beg for a written menu. Don't be intimidated. Smile, ask for her recommendation, and take it. She's quick and to-the-point. Also, the dinner was more expensive than I thought, but well worth it. If I had the funds, I would have ate there every night. The pizza at the Ristorante del Sole was great. The pasta was so-so. Skip that and stick with the pizza.
Dinner tip: If you want to get a table right away, get to these restaurants
right at the time they open (usually 7-7:30 pm) for dinner. These places
fill fast and people tend to linger. If you wait, you may not get a table
until 9 pm. An Italian colleague said many restaurants don't expect tables
to turnover more than once or twice a night. People like to enjoy their
long meals. Also, it's not necessary to always order a primi and a secondi.
We saw lots of Italians ordering just an appetizer and a primi or a secondi.
Really, they're human too. How much food can you eat? :-)
Nancy Ketchman <email>
Milwaukee, WI USA 07/19/02
Back door restaurant in the Abruzzo
I'm almost certainnone of you will ever get far enough off the beaten path
to eat here, but if you ever find the small town of Città S. Angelo, about
15 km NW of Pescara, go to Ristorante Osteria dell'Angelo (closed on Monday).
You will remember the food for many years.
John Callaway <email>
Coopenhagen, DK 07/17/02
Siena pasta
We ordered pasta with pesto sauce in Cafe Accademia in Siena and they brought
us a frozen microwaved pasta in a cardboard bowl. Not what we expected when
ordering pasta in Italy!
JMS <email>
Kirkland, Wa USA 07/16/02
Ostaria Da Giovanni in Piazza Farnese
Ostaria Da Giovanni Ar Galletto. Worst meal in 6 weeks of travel! The Rick
Steves 2002 Italy guide almost raves about this place — "best al fresco
dining experience" of all his listings, and lots of people were going there
with trusty guidebooks in hand — but DON'T, the food is absolutely lousy,
and the service isn't much better — at least that was our experience on
one particular night, every course of our meal, from antipasto through dessert,
was horribly bad. Even the house wine wasn't very good, which is hard to
do in Italy.
Les Pennington <email>
Kenmore, WA USA 07/15/02
ITALIAN FOOD IS SO GOOD!!
Let me say first- I LOVE FOOD! That is a major reason I loved Italy. We
basically built our days around food and our next meal.
1- Milan- A restaurant (who's name escapes me but it's in the book) on the outer edge of the Arcade towards the Duomo. It is basically an glass-eclosed patio. It had the BEST gnoochi I have ever tasted! It melts in your mouth and Giovanni was so awesome, he gave us samples of meats and deserts. It was a great night!
2- Cinque Terre- Monterosso- If you love Pesto this is the place... La Taverna. It is under the bridge, past a small grocery store on your left.(Via Molinelli 39 — 19016) It was SO SO GOOD! Also Foccicia was fantastic everywhere we ate it.
3- Rome- A great place tucked under the Spanish steps. Everything there was YUMMY!!
4- GELATO- GELATO- GELATO!
Overall I think I left about 5lbs heavier and I don't regret it at all.
Have a great time and EAT EAT EAT!
Mer
Cleveland, OH USA 07/09/02
Cinque Terre, Florence
I would like to make some incredible restaurant recommendations for anyone
heading to Florence and Cinque Terre... In Florence, we stayed at Hotel
Scoti, http://www.hotelscoti.com and had a wonderful experience. Excellent
location, fair prices, and a wonderful hostess who speaks perfect English.
For dinner in Florence, please visit Osteria Porcellino for the best ambiance
and dining experience. It is located on a small street called via Val Di
Lamona. Try the risotto with asparagus and truffle oil, and drink lots of
wine! In Cinque Terre, I would recommend you visit Restaurante Miki in Monterosso
and try the Pizza Tetto — actually a children's dinner, it is a pizza shaped
like a heart with French Fries on top — you'd never know this could taste
so wonderful! And in Vernazza, please visit Pizzeria la Scogliera and have
a pesto pizza... I still dream about it. Enjoy!
Zoe <email>
CO USA 07/08/02
We traveled to Venice, Florence and Rome. Either suggestions on this
site or Rick's book were right on. We found both very helpful. Once we Baldovinos
in Florence was fantastic. Caffe Nellie was a great find (Near Ponte Vecchio)
in Florence. It was suggested by a local and we enjoyed that. In Venice
we had a very bad experience at Laguna Blu. food not so good,extremely expensive.
service was truly horrible by Italian Standards. We should have stuck to
Rick's suggestion. Orzo 80 in Rome had some great appetizers.
Mike and Sheri
NY, NY USA 07/05/02
Going to Ravello??
If you get to Ravello, try Cumpa Cosimo for dinner... best food you've ever
had.
Rob A <email>
Seattle, WA USA 07/05/02
Cinque Terre, Paradiso
i am a europhile, i suppose. my family lived in Germany when i was a child,
and i guess you could say that we always sort of experienced Europe through
the back door. i think that the advice Rick gives about not being an Ugly
American is invaluable. we used to play a game when i was a kid, pointing
out the "ugly americans." oh, yes, they can be spotted a mile away...
anyway, recently i had my first experience in Italy, and fell in love. my friend and i have just graduated from college and decided to backpack around europe. we began our trip in Italy and had to return after a bit of French Riviera and Paris.
Cinque Terre is now my own personal utopia. we became enamored with the towns (we stayed in three of the five) and the culture. the people were unbelievably kind. we ate three times at Incadase da Piva, which is right on the trail between Corniglia and Vernazza (in Vernazza) and had fantastic experiences there. it wasn't so much about the food as the company of the waiter and the grandfatherly owner, Piva. he gave us free drinks and halved the cost of our meal the last time we ate there. we watched a soccer match with them and Piva sang us italian ballads accompanied by his guitar... and he even offered to help us find a place to stay. the waiter took us to a party on the rocks by the sea one night, where we met other italians our age and had an absolutely idyllic time.
the point of this is to say that the italians are extremely kind and generous. unlike some other european countries, they instantly embrace you into the culture. of course, it helps if you are girls in your early twenties (!), but we saw other older Americans having a great time with the locals as well.
if you want a delicious meal and a heart-stopping view, eat at the little
restaurant a bit outside of the town in Corniglia (at sunset of course).
i don't remember what it's called, but it's difficult to miss in such
a tiny town. the pesto is beautiful and the swordfish is exquisite. i
am seriously itching to get back there already.
laurel <email>
baltimore, MD USA 07/03/02
Yum!
Returned from 2 delicious eating weeks in Italy. Here's a few of our finds.
Venice-Pub Crawl's from the book were great. Al Nono Risorto west of the
Rialto, best Pizza anywhere S. Croce 2337. Al Passatore on Lido was wonderful.
Stay away from Ristorante Da Celio near San Marco, so so food and high prices.
Monterrosso, Moretto's, Restaurante Belvidere, and La Pimpe was really good.
In Florence We had wonderful food at Montecatini and at Buzzino next door
to each other at Via dei Leoni,6r and 8r. Say Hi to Giuseppe at Ristorante
Montecatini and bring a small map of where you live and you will have a
delightful conversation and limoncello or champayne to share.Gelateria dei
Neri close by was excellent. Trattoria La Cellina on via Delle Terme 52
in Siena made our taste buds happy. Now on to Roma. We fell in love with
Marco and Franco at Osteria da Mario, at Piazza delle Coppelle,51 We ate
there twice, and would go back next time in Rome. Gelato at Della Palma.
WE ate our way through Italy and loved the friendly people we met along
the way.
Jeanmarie <email>
Eagan, Mn USA 06/28/02
HOSTARIA ROMANO
I am relieved that others below have shared my negative experience at hostaria
romano. The distaste for foreigners esp. north americans is apparent in
the waiter's attitudes. They were so rude and unpleasant that we almost
got up and left!! I have never had worse service in a restaurant. The food
is average, no great finds here. This restaurant should be taken off rick
steves suggestion, I really believe that the waiters would be happier for
it. Let the few snooty Romans who all seem to work or eat here have this
restaurant all to themselves!!!
neda & Jean <email>
new york, ny USA 06/26/02
Divine meals recommended by hotels
I agree with Jimbring of La Crosse, we found that the best restaurant recommendations
were from the locals. In our case, our best meals were had at places recommended
our hotel hosts. We tended to stay at out of the way, small hotels where
the hosts were more than happy to recommend their local favorites. This
was not true of the bigger, more touristy places.
In Milan, we went to a local pizza place recommended by our hosts. Half of this reatuarant was closed because of a birthday party and the rest of the patrons were locals. The pizza was outstanding; consisting of a perfectly baked crust covered with a mozarella sage sauce, which had a paper thin slice of prosciuto drapped over the slice like a napkin with an artichoke, olive and mushroom topping. I have never had a pizza more delicious.
The best meals we had in Italy (and in our entire lives) were at a small restaurant in Sansepolcro recommended by our host in a villa outside of town, Villa Castellacia (a super-cool place to stay, find it on the web). We ate at the place he recommended the first night and came back the second night. If we had stayed in Sansepolcro longer we would have eaten there every night as well. This was a small restaurant within the old town and was simply but elegantly decorated inside. The owner, Sara, was very helpful and helped us select the meals and suggested wonderful local wines. The appetizer of a selection of local meats, mozarella, and other cheeses was the most mouth watering we had. The first night, I had a meal of pasta with truffles, and mushrooms in a cream sauce that was indescribably delicious. Sorry about all the superlatives, but the meal was really that delicious.
Regarding the persons that had a whole trip of bad meals in Italy, it
is nearly inconceivable as to how that was accomplished (perhaps a special
talent?); we had pizza in a train station that was better than any take-out
we'd ever had in the US.
Denise Larson <email>
Denver, CO USA 06/22/02
Good Eating in Venice
\ick is right...the food at St. Mark's square in Venice is generally awful.
Particularly the Tourist Menu at Goto Cave. (YUCK) Take the vaparetto to
Academia, cross the bridge, and choose a couple of courses at Flastavia
e Masaniallo. (The first cafe on the right after the bridge...the one with
the blue tablecloths) Although entrees can run up to 21 Euros, the risotto
with seafood (at 15Euros) is incredible, the salad Caprese (at 11Euros)
is more than enough for two as a starter, and they serve complimentary bruschetta
and a local after-dinner liquer with every meal. My daughter was particularly
taken with their eggplant parmesan (8Euros) which looked the size of a postcard
but was filling enough for a meal. However, you need to know what you are
looking for...the menu is only in Italian, and the waiters are short on
English. They open at 7 Th-Sat, 7:30 on Sun, 7 M-T, closed Weds.
Martiey Miller <email>
Grand Junction, CO USA 06/12/02
WOW!! ITalIA!! If you are lucky enough to get to Montersso, Cinque
Terre, dont miss the pesto at Trattoria Belvedere — Under the bridge in
the residential section of town (not the area with the train station) —
AMAZING pesto pasta, and cheap. (If you order it for 2, they bring out a
huge vat filled with the pasta and hunks of cheese — YUMMY!!)
USA 06/12/02
Lake Trasimeno
Lake Trasimeno — best town was Passignano sul Trasimeno, just a jog left
from touristy Tuoro. Nice view and few people, at least weekdays. Pick up
the ferry to the island after a great meal at Ristorante Luciano — VERY
good service, best Rissotto we had in Italy, and not a lot of Euro's
Dennis Rizzo <email>
Mount Holly, NJ USA 06/12/02
Rome Eats
For those in Rome and staying near the Termini — via Nazionale recommended
hotels — we found Ristorante Pizzeria Barocco on via Napoli just off via
Nazionale to be excellent and friendly and not expensive in the least. We
highly recommend the place and Roberto, the extraordinary server should
be a ETBD regular (he looks somewhat like Danny DeVito and never stops....also,
we found Rick's recommended Taverna Rampo near the Trevi Fountain to have
discovered table turnover techniques that would rival the fastest American
Chain — and an uninterested and unresponsive wait staff. Not worth the stop
when there are so many more delightful places within a stone's throw.
Dennis Rizzo <email>
Mount Holly, NJ, NJ USA 06/12/02
Great restaurant alert in Rome!
Do yourself a favor and eat at the Ristorante Le Tamerici, around the corner
from the Trevi Fountain in Rome (ask, someone will know). A little bit pricey
but I think that it is worth the splurge for a great meal with great service.
(I ended up eating there twice while in the city)
Sean
Seattle, WA USA 06/06/02
Le Vetrate, Verni, Italy
We stayed at a wonderful bed and breakfast in Verni, Italy, north of Lucca.
It is run by a British couple, Barbara and Keith Hayward. The rooms were
wonderful, the view was incredible, and the Haywards were wonderful hosts.
Breakfast was the best and the price is unbelievably reasonable. A definite
4 star B&B.
Sharon Cagle <email>
Tacoma, wa USA 06/02/02
Food
Our favorite evening meal in Florence was at Sabatino's (across the Arno)
and and in Bologna at Ristorante di Nello. Every taste perfect, service
tremendous.
Carol <email>
USA 06/01/02
Pasta, Steak, Gelato
Paris food was great but Italian food captured my heart. From pastas to
bruschetta to the antipasti plates to Fiorentina to the bottles of wine
from Montepulciano, what can be better. It helped to have an Italian for
a brother-in-law, but I noticed that the best way to find a superb place
to eat is to ask the locals. We mostly asked shop owners which restaurants
had the best of whatever food we wanted that day. As far as gelato, I think
that those that have had it will just smile! We were lucky that the town
where my sister lives (Conegliano), the weekend we were there, had their
first ever gelato festival. Free gelato for everyone Friday & Saturday nights.
Heaven, I tell you!!! My brother-in-lay says that the Veneto region is known
for excellent gelato, but I told him, I just might go all over Italy to
taste for myself to cast my vote. Happy eating.
Jimbing <email>
La Crosse, WI USA 05/30/02
2 weeks Eating Around Italy
Well, the gelato was fantastic everywhere, perhaps just degrees of how rich
the chocolate flavor would be. The pesto in CinqueTerre (for which it is
known) was heavenly. We even bought our own pesto and pasta and cooked up
our own. IT was delicious. Also tried one glass of sciacaterre (the local
desert wine in CinqueTerre,) before buying the average $25 bottle. Glad
we did. My husband rated it on the level of a cheap sherry. Regarding the "Menu Turistico", we consulted the offered options and if they were interesting
or something we wanted to try, we ordered the Tourist Menu and it was always
very good and more economical then ordering each course. I realize Rick
Steves suggests to stay away from these menus but we really enjoyed them.
We also did try places popular with the locals and enjoyed them as well.
Hard to go wrong with food in Italy. Enjoy! Ciao
Cathie <email>
St Paul, MN USA 05/29/02
Eating well!
Four of us traveled for 30 days all over Italy and each of us has different
opinions about their favorite restaurants! So find your own favorite! I
will say that we loved gelato beyond belief. My husband usually had gelato
twice a day — he still has a 34 inch waist! Bah! And we had fun going to
a tiny place in Rome called Ada's where she served you what she happened
to have cooked that day! Another highlight was staying in a farmhouse for
a week and doing much of our own cooking. That meant visiting the local
shops, etc. And we also went to the big grocery store chain, Coop! It was
fantastic because they had tons of cheese, meats, veggies, fruits, breads,
etc. We bought pecorino, mortadella, olive oil pesto and lots of fun stuff.
We made simple pasta meals and drank the local wines and loved life!
Mary Kerns <email>
Dundee, OR USA 05/28/02
Taverna Garibaldi, Cinque Terre Levanto
In Levanto (5 Minutes by train to 5 Terre )we went to a amazing Ristorante
Pizzeria in a 1400 house just in the center of the village of Levanto.L'Antica
Taverna Garibaldi. This was a wonderful place. The tables are wood made
and the cotto floor made of this restaurant a jewel.In the small room you
can have your Ciassa Cavour ( made with pesto sauce and rucola put on the
pizza like trees around a square ) or the Colonnata with Lardo di Colonnata
(what else)or the typical Farinata made with chick peas flour mixed with
water. olive oil salt and put in the 400° C oven. Try the antipasti misto
before the Pizza a dream!!!
Tommy Deauville
USA 05/26/02
Enoteca Pinchiorri
I hear rave reviews about Enoteca Pinchiorri, and thought it would be a
superb gift to take my mother there for dinner while in Florence. While
the wine selection was excellent, it also cost a fortune. For Italian cuisine-
this was absurd. For 2 appetisers, 2 main courses and 1 glass of wine, the
bill amounted to 300 Euros. There is a 2 course minimum per person, the
cheapest being 50 Euros ie. about $45.00. I couldn't believe the prices,
the food was NOT worth the money, and despite our being waited on hand and
foot, it wasn't worth the money at all. The glass of wine (least expensive
on the menu) amounted to $20. I don't suggest going there unless you happen
to enjoy crying when someone delivers the check. Despite the rave reviews
this restaurant has earned, I feel that we were trapped into spending an
extraordinary amount of money for a meal that was less-than-good, and not
filling at all. My steak was the size of a credit card, and equally as thin.
The shrimp appetizer is just that, 2 shrimp on a plate with some fancy sauce
you can't taste. My suggestion... go down the street to Gatto e Volpe- a
tiny little restaurant owned by a father and son, and the food is absolutely
the best Tuscan cooking I have ever had. At roughly $5.00 a plate, you could
order everything on the menu and still spend less than Enoteca Pinchiorri.
Carrie <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 05/23/02
Pesto! Vernazza, Cinque Terre
It's pretty common knowledge that the Italian Coast around Cinque Terre
and Genoa is Pesto Central. Less well known is a wonderful hand-rolled pasta
called "trofie"-specifically made to go with all that good pesto. It appears
on lots of 5Terre menus; we particularly enjoyed it at Vulnetia, right on
the harbor square in Vernazza. Buon appetito!
Ken <email>
Naples, FL USA 05/15/02
Florence — Le Colonnine
Le Colonnine in Florence had some of the best pizza I had in Italy — large
size and generous toppings. The rest of their menu is also good. And the
staff are especially wonderful — happy and friendly. It is on a corner
at the end of Burgo Santa Croce, an angular street that takes off from the
Santa Croce church. Or stand facing Santa Croce, back up as far as you can
go in the square, still facing the church, then turn and walk down the street
to the right (I don't know its name) a couple of blocks to where it intersects
with Burgo Santa Croce — Le Colonnine is on the corner.
Terry <email>
Oakland, CA USA 05/14/02
cinqueterre
Corniglia has the best food. It is less touristy than the other towns so
it has to depend on locals. I love the mussels and grilled fish.
moye <email>
USA 05/14/02
Rome — Le Naumachie
An excellent restaurant in Rome is Le Naumachie, Via Celimontana 7. It's
about a block from the Colosseum, on the side going toward St. John Lateran.
From the Colosseum, you'll see the "Martini" restaurant (which is not too
bad either). Go around that block and you'll find "Le Naumachie", a small
place, but with lots of personal attention, both to the customers and the
food.
Terry <email>
Oakland, CA USA 05/14/02
Favorites in Firenze and Siena
Don't miss Perche No in Florence for gelato — ice cream to die for! As
far as restauants go, there are a few favorites of mine: Trattoria il Teatro
on Via Degli Alfani where I had a wonderful plate with pieces of scrumptious
grilled chicken, pork and sausages that lay on a bed of grilled vegetables
and potatoes - the potatoes alone were worth the price of the meal. Also,
Antico Noe on Volta di San Piero, where I ate gnocchi al pesto (and practically
licked the plate clean). By the way, there is a sandwich shop owned by the
restaurant located next door to it that makes the most incredible sandwiches
for a very reasonable price. I had a huge sandwich that consisted of lean
roast pork loin with mozzarella cheese and pickled eggplant on a hard crusty
loaf for the low price of L5000.
If you go to Siena, I would recommend Antica Osteria da Divo, which I
read about in Time Out: Florence and Tuscany. It's located at Via Franciosa,
29. Not only is the food wonderful and the service impeccable, but you
sit in atmospheric splendor — deep in huge vaults or rooms carved out
of old stone. It feels like you're in the middle of an archeological dig.
The tables are covered with linen and silver, and the servers gave us
glasses of champagne to tickle the palate, bruschetta for starters, and
delectable pastries to go with the espresso we ordered after lunch. All
of these were complimentary (and we checked the bill to make sure). I
had a salmon and dill mouse over tender young green beans for an antipasto
(delicious!), then ravioli stuffed with porcini mushrooms in a cream sauce
and topped with black truffles (which made me want to lick my plate).
The dishes were beautifully presented on fine china, and served with wonderful
crusty Italian bread. Our bill for one antipasto, one salad, two pasta
entrees, two bottles of mineral water and two espressos came to L72,000 — a deal at the price.
Mardee <email>
Cincinnati, OH USA 05/03/02
Al Cugnai in Venice
My two meals at Al Cugnai in Venice (near the Accademia Bridge on the Dorsoduro
side) were two of the highlights of my month in Italy. The three sisters
who run the place are wonderful, and lots of fun, always joking with each
other and with the guests. I had langusta (or scampi) en brochette that
was great. Prices are very reasonable, and the casual atmosphere is enjoyable.
Terry <email>
Oakland, CA USA 05/03/02
Gelato in Florence
By all means AVOID buying gelato at the place behind the magazine kiosk
at the corner in Piazza della Signoria. (It's called Bar Perseo, but you
have to go around the corner and look up under the awning to see the name.)
The gelato is MUCH more expensive, and of poorer quality, than you can get
elsewhere. My favorite is Vivoli. And I didn't just get a taste of the rice
flavor, as Rick recommends — I ate it by the cupful, going back day after
day for more. It was my favorite, with a consistency and taste like tapioca.
Mmmmmm! (They have a rum flavor that is also wonderful.)
Terry <email>
Oakland, CA USA 05/03/02
Breakfast in Italy ! Colazione!
Gosh I love a good breakfast. It just sets up the whole day and you don't
have to take off the time for lunch. Well, we finally solved the breakfast
in Italy problem. The day before the event(breakfast) while you're strolling
around, stop at a market and pick up a yogurt and a banana or kiwi or two.
Maybe a small chunk of cheese (only Americans think everything needs to
go in the frig at all times..yogurt will keep overnite!) Then very boldly
yet discreetly take them to breakfast with you...add rolls,juice and tea/coffe
and milk and you're closer to your style of eating. If you really want to
go over the top: are you bringing a hairdryer with an adapter attached?
I bring a little tin pot that has an electric coil in the bottom, use the
adapter and boil a few eggs(Italians sell eggs by the piece not a dozen)
An egg is ever so satisfying...and the Brits will be bringing you eggs to
boil for them. Buon Colazione.
codybrandy <email>
Boston, Ma USA 05/03/02
Hostaria Romano — Rome
Regarding Hostaria Romano, a small reasonably priced restaurant recommended
by one of the Backdoor Guides. While the food is good it isn't more extraordinary
than a variety of other small eateries — even tourist ones — and the service,
characterized by Rick as "fun-loving" is not worth the experience. The mere
sight of one of Rick's books on a dinner table prompts the waiter to insults,
the waiters make horse like sounds as they serve the food (resulting in
them spitting into your dish) and on two trials the waiters claim to have
misjudged the change they were to give us (each time, close to 20 euros).
Try instead the unpretentious La Cucagna Ristopub — the pub section of this
restaurant serves simple excellent fare (try the fried olives and filletto
di baccala). Cheap good food without the disney like theatrics of the waiters
at hostaria.
Johanne Pelletier <email>
montreal, Quebec Canada 04/30/02
Rome-Trattoria
We recently spent three nights in Rome at the simple, inexpensive, budget
Kerouac B&B which we recommend.(www.romanhostels.com)Rene' one of the hosts,
also recommended to us the small Trattoria Dell' Omo where we ate dinner
two nights and had the best meals of our trip. It is a Roman restaurant
like you imagine it should be. Mama cooks in the kitchen what she bought
at the market that day and papa and son are the waiters. The evening's specials
are on display in the back and you point to what you want to eat and everything
costs less than it should. The Veal Saltmbocca, Osso Buco and Gnocchi were
especially good. If you are lucky, like we were, you may even get to hear
them all screaming and arguing in the kitchen, Italian style. Do not miss
this place if you are in Rome. Places like this are a dying breed. It is
on Via Vicenza two blocks from the termini.
Brian <email>
Pompano Beach, FL USA 04/29/02
It's unfortunate that some people come away with bad experiences. I've
found that one can almost always get decent food at the restaurants owned
by Autogrill — the company that runs the autostrada rest stops. Spizzico
is fast-food pizza, nothing special, but Ciao is more like a cafeteria and
is quite good — imagine a cafeteria in the States where one could get bresaola
or tiramisu! They're often found next to each other in city centers, like
in the Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele in Milano or right off the Campo in Siena
as well as on the road. Great value and a refuge if you need an inexpensive,
good meal in a strange place and don't want to be bothered with a restaurant
search.
Stewart McKeever <email>
Charleston, SC USA 04/28/02
Italian food is the pits!
Italy has some of the worst food I have had the misfortune to consume. The
meats are greasy, the pizza is simply awful, and the pasta is ok, but it
gets boring after all. Also, the only times I've ever been ill as far as
food is concerned, was from eating Italian 'cuisine'. I got constipated!
In my opinion, the only saving grace to a trip through Italy is the gelati,
because the food and the people most certainly aren't.
Carmen Smith <email>
Charlotte, NC USA 04/27/02
On my first trip to Italy I had both the best and the worst Italian
meals I have ever experienced. After a great party at a hilltop home in
Pietrasanta, the hostess pulled out a package of supermarket spaghetti and
a can of bland generic tomato sauce and there was my first "authentic Italian
home-cooked meal". Later in the trip I was treated to dinner at a restaurant
which was located in part of a medieval castel near Arezzo. The castel was
stupendous, the view outstanding, and the meal was beyond description. I
still dream of it. (just ordering was an adventure — my host and the staff
were Italian, I American, and all the other patrons Dutch — each trying to
muddle along in our respective tongues!)
Carol
CA USA 04/18/02
Super-size this!
McDonalds? Serves us right! We got back to Vicenza (our hotel location)
after a day in Venice, and my family insisted on eating at McDonalds because
the previous night they saw a sign (not the actual McDonalds) pointing toward
the center of town. We spent 90 minutes searching (in vain) because the
signs would never say (in Italian or any other language) next right, next
left, etc. We think we were within spitting distance a few times because
the locals tried to direct us as best they could and said it was very near.
We were going to park the car and head off on foot, but couldn't find parking.
Serves us right, I guess, with all the "real" places to eat in Italy!
Bob Boland <email>
Grafenwoehr, Germany, USA 04/12/02
Great Food in Trastevere
My family recently returned from a 10-day trip to Italy, and we really enjoyed
staying and eating in Trastevere. We found 3 really great restaurants within
2 blocks of our hotel: Trattoria Capo de Fero, Osteria L'Aquila and Trattoria
Popi-Popi. We had fantastic, affordable meals at all of these places, and
the service was great!
Michele Napoli
Pittsburgh, PA USA 04/10/02
Venice: Alla Zucca
Great restaurant in Venice: Alla Zucca. The service was great and the food
was even better. There are lots of choices for vegetarians. I had the mixed
vegetable plate, and my husband had spaghetti with ricotta and zucchini.
Both divine. For dessert we tried the pear and ginger cake- it was so amazing,
fresh, moist- that cake will live in my memory forever. It's located at
ponte del Megio, Santa Croce. It's closed on Sundays. A general tip for
eating in Venice: only go to places that have been recommended in guidebooks,
because there are tons of second-rate tourist trap restaurants and if you're
not careful you could find yourself in one. If you can't find a nice restaurant
for lunch, have a sandwich from a café, we found that they were amazingly
fresh and delicious for "fast" food.
Laura <email>
Long Beach, NY USA 03/27/02
Great place to eat in Milan — Don't ask Rick
Last week, on the last night of our trip to Italy, my wife and I had to
stay in Milan. After being spoiled by great meals in Rome and the Cinque
Terra, we were presently surprised by the Trattoria we found in Milan. The
name of the place escapes me, but it is directly across the street from
the Hotel Santa Maria (Rick Recommends the hotel in his Italy book, under
the section 'Sleeping near the Duomo'). Although Rick describes the Trattoria
has having surly waiters, we found ours extremely helpful with the Italian
menu, very attentive and he selected a great wine. We were the only English
speaking people there and the setting was perfect. It turned out to be one
of our best meals of the trip, but also one of the most expensive. Just
like the saying goes, "When in Rome..." you have to pay more for "When in
Milan....".
MissingItalyAlready
Denver, CO USA 03/26/02
restaurant in Rome
Contrary to Vicki I had a bad experience at Restaurante Di Cardello in Rome
(close to Colosseo): very unattentive service, long waits, overpriced (poor
antipasta, a mediocre pasta, and water for 25 EURO/person). In fact they
didn't show the check, they just shouted the amount to pay. Because this
seemed so unrealistically high (40 EURO/person) I insisted of having a check.
It contained dishes I didn't take! They have an open kitchen, surprisingly
because it's so filthy. Dirty floor, etc...
Johan <email>
Dilbeek — Brussels, belgium 03/25/02
Good food/experience
I have 3 food recommendations for travelers in Italy. 1)Il Ghibbellino in
Siena (pricier but worth it...and good service) 2)A little osteria 2 blocks
away from the Pantheon, past the Gelatteria and take a left and look to
the left about 30 feet later. It looks like an alley until 7:30pm. 3)The
little mother-run restaurant in Ravello up the alley on the right just past
the post office. If you can find these restaurants and eat there you'll
understand why it's so easy to forget the names... you're too consumed by
the food.
Rob A <email>
Seattle, WA USA 03/14/02
Napoli
Best food in Italy?? I found everything I ate in Naples to be the most delicious
food! Well, I am also 1/4 Napolitan so I guess I'm a little biased. On a
serious note, I never went wrong with any dinner I ate in Italy... Yummyy!!!!!
Lori
NJ USA 03/13/02
Restaurants in Florence, Italy
I came across a wonderful little restaurant in Florence called Ristorante
Montecatini. It can be found by taking Via del Proconsolo from the Duomo
to Via dei Leoni, number 6. I loved the green pepper steak and the service
was amazing!! Our server Alfredo was really helpful with some of our questions
about the city and they seem to speak a few languages quite well.
J. White <email>
Ocala, FL USA 03/13/02
Nettuno..seafood and cemetery outside Roma
We spent a week in Rome in mid-January. Among the best meals we had that
week was at Trattoria Il Rodo in the town of Nettuno which is an hour by
train from Rome. Nettuno was the site of Allied landings during WWII and
the American cemetery, a short walk from the train station, was a beautiful
and moving spot. After a visit, walk back to the centre of town and head
for Il Rodo for superb seafood in a relaxed atmosphere for very few Euros.
After lunch walk a few blocks to the station and catch a train back to Rome...they
run about every hour. For those interested in food in Italy, the best source
of information is Italy for the Gourmet Traveler by Fred Plotkin. I found
out about Nettuno and Il Rodo in that book and Fred describes both far better
than I can.
erica <email>
new york, ny USA 03/02/02
Italy in a 13 year olds eyes
I am 13 yrs old and I went to italy when I was in 3rd grade. I had sooo
much fun it was great! My mom and dad are both 100% Italian and so am I.
I am a native to all of the food in Italy from my mom and grandma but to
get the real effect in italy was even better! When we were in Milan we stayed
at my relatives house near the famous duomo. Also there was a wonderful
little gelato shop a block or two away so we had that ever night almost.
I was watching rick's show today and heard about the graffiti wall so i
thought i would write!
Liza <email>
fort dodge, ia USA 03/02/02
Enoteca in Rome
I just discovered a great new wine bar around the corner from the Pantheon — nice
combination of elegant and funky, good light meals, excellent wine. Actually,
there's now a choice of two such places on Via del Gesu: the Enoteca ai
Corsi at n. 87, a great cheap tavern-style place with lots of good food
to choose from scribbled on the blackboard and now this classier place with
menus at n. 60.
Tom Rankin <email>
Roma, Italy 02/28/02
Pesto Lasagne
Try the pesto lasagne in Cinque Terre. It is the birthplace of pesto, and
they know what to do with it. I dream about it. I think I am going to try
and make it at home.
Erin Parker <email>
Snohomish, WA USA 02/27/02
simpler the better
When we visited Italy last summer, one of the things that struck me most
was how well we could eat at the most unexpected, simple places. While waiting
for our train in Ventimiglia, with our fractured Italian and considerable
pointing, we asked a deli shopkeeper to make us a salami and cheese sandwich.
My mouth is watering just thinking about it.
Another day, we were lucky enough to stumble on a mediocre overpriced hotel in Monterosso that more than made up for it with the free breakfast included in the room price — cheeses, meats, fruit, pastries, fresh juice ... it was even better because it was served in the hotel's courtyard.
I nearly made myself sick gorging on olives from a street vendor. She'd
let me try several varieties before I settled on buying about a dollar's
worth — I thought it would be a small snack, but it was an absurd portion
of the best olives I've ever injested. This is not to say restaurant food
wasn't good. It was! But maybe there's something extra special about the
treats you don't expect. If you're traveling on a budget and are worried
you won't get the full effect of Italy's fabulous cuisine, I think you'll
be pleasantly surprised.
Colleen Tebeau <email>
Ann Arbor, MI USA 02/26/02
Two restaurants in Rome
If you are near Santa Maria Maggiore, try Nuova Stella. It is a family-run
trattoria (Via Manin 50;6-48-97-61-40) two blocks from the church, which
has a pleasant atmosphere and serves good food. The ribbolita was wonderful
and the pasta was great too. The menus are in several languages. Our best
meal was at Trattoria der Pallaro — the no-menu resturant rec. by Steve and
others on the graffiti wall. The veal is el mejor en el mundo — the best
in the world. Afterwards we took the night walk — a very lovely evening!
J. King <email>
Fayetteville, GA USA 02/16/02
Re:Antica Osteria Da Divo in Siena
I will agree on the Antica Osteria in Siena being one of the best restaraunts
that I experienced in Italy. It was incredible to order pigeon to try something
different only to find that I have rarely had something that delicious.
The only detractor to the restaraunt was the temperature downstairs. We
were beading up with sweat during our 2+ hour meal but would go back in
a second.
Paul
Seattle, WA USA 02/09/02
Pasta seasoning packets
Recently returned from a wonderful trip to Italy. While near Positano, we
purchased some seasoning packets of dried veggies for pasta sauce. They
are delicious. Name on the label is Star Frutta Positano di DE LUCIA ANTONIETTA,
Via Chiesa Nuova, 64 — Positano.
Judy <email>
Sun Prairie, WI USA 01/29/02
Re: Ai Balestrari
Let me second the recommendation!
Brian Weston <email>
Raleigh, NC USA 01/28/02
Restaurant eating on Easter Sunday?
We went to Italy 2 summers ago and had some notably delicious dinners in
Rome at the Taberna de Gracchi near the Vatican, and the small, family-style
restaurant in the Piazza St. Ignatio (on the other side of the river). We
will be returning to Rome and Sorrento for 10 days this Easter and are wondering
what the protocol is for restaurant-eating on a holiday such as Easter.
Phoebe Arancio <email>
Long Island, NY USA 01/22/02
Bad Food and Worse Service
Just returned from the worst meal I have ever been unable to eat. Filette
de Bacala in Campo di Fiori in Roma. Coming from a fishing village myself,
I must say their fish is poorly prepared, greasy and the service/atmosphere
is crude. It is hard to get a bad meal in Italy, but Filette de Bacala has
proven it can be done.
Charles M. Luther <email>
USA 01/11/02
Meats in Bologna
We just returned from Italy and are experiencing severe food withdrawal.
We spent several days in Florence and Bologna. The food, especially the
meats (prosciutto, mortadella, etc) and cheeses, were much better and it
seemed more abundant in Bologna. For the best pizza, try the small self
serve directly across the street from the train station. We all agreed,
if you like the food in Florence, you'll love it in Bologna.
Mark Marone <email>
St. Petersburg, FL USA 01/10/02
Pizza!
The pizza in Naples is to die for! I spent a week there and religiously
ate pizza for lunch and dinner everyday! It was that good. I thought Pizzeria
du Michelle was the best. They only offer two types of pizza, Margarita
and Marinara. Ahhh, heaven... a Marinara pizza and a cold Moretti beer.
Nick <email>
Edmonton, ab Canada 01/02/02
In Rome — Ai Balestrari
In Rome, do yourself a favor and have a meal at Ai Balestari just off of
Campo Dei Fiori on Via Dei Balestrari , 41. They had a limited memu that
night, but we had amazing spinach and ricotta ravioli, veal and potatoes.
Absolutely outstanding. And the service was great. Then go across the plaza
to the Blue Ice gelato shop for some of the best gelato you will ever have!
Try the Baccisimo Blanca. It tastes like Divinity.
Beth R.
San Diego, CA USA 01/02/02