Graffiti Wall: Mouthwatering Italy

Home > Plan Your Trip > Graffiti Wall > Mouthwatering Italy

Mouthwatering Italy: 2005

When you take your tongue out sightseeing in Italy, what are its favorite taste treats?

Vernazza
This e-mail is long overdue! We spent two and a half weeks in Italy last summer. I am writing not just about food, but more about hospitality. We stayed for two weeks in Vernazza at the home of a friend. This was our third trip to Vernazza; three years ago we spent a month there, and 20 years ago we went there after we were first married. Vernazza has exploded with tourists, and I found during our last two visits that tourists were not very welcomed by some of the stores and restaurants. This was not the case at Il Pirata, however. Gianluca, Massimo, and Norelia greeted us graciously and made us feel at home from the instant we first walked into their bar. We ended up going there nearly every day of our two week trip, either to drink a cup of coffee, sample the delectable marzipan creations (homemade with almonds from their native Sicily!), have a light dinner, or just to say hello. They knew our children by name and gave them little treats whenever they came. Gianluca and Massimo are kind and funny, great people to be around, and it was always a treat when Norelia was there in the evenings. The food was great, but the hospitality was even better! Grazie, amici!
Lisa Cicurel-Jones
San Anselmo, CA USA Wed 12/21/2005

First trip to Rome worth it for the food alone!
My first trip to Rome was worth it for the food alone! I tried a few Rick's recommended restaurants and was very happy. Il Gabriello near the Spanish steps was my favorite, but enjoyed all aspects of eating in Rome- there on business, I found the daily trip to the local tavola caldas lunch places a great midday meal anmd a way to sample some home cooking and whet my appetite for dinner. Oh, and the under $1 espresso so prevalent was a very pleasenat way to wake up every day and live la dolce vita. Can't wait to return!
Scott <email>
Odenton, MD USA Tue 12/20/2005

Cooking Class/Dinner
Poggio Ascuitto -I Was travelling in italy alone and signed up for a cooking class near Greve...it was an all afternoon class and was incredible. They kept it small, only 8 of us. We had a great time cooking an entire tuscan meal, which was used for the people staying at the b&b. Dinner was included, we ate out on the patio over looking the rolling hills and vinyards. I think the cost was approx.75 euro, and a bottle of wine each was included. Of course we had to break into our individual stashes of wine in our cars to last us the night. By midnight all the b&b guests had gone to bed, so it was just our table and the great people who owned the operation still up. wow, i can't wait to go back!
Sam <email>
Denver, USA Sat 12/17/2005

Pastry
When in Siena, many will inevitably pass by Pasticcerie Nannini at via Massetana. So famous is the Panforte in Siena and this is a place to try some of them. However, if you can see, many locals or Italians are gunning for another pastry, ricciarelli. Seldom mentioned but if you miss eating this, you never know that you have miss one of the most incredible tasting pastry existing on earth. I personally prefer it much more than Panforte. Queue and buy the freshly made ones.
Pheng Wee <email>
Petaling Jaya, Selangor Malaysia Mon 12/12/2005

Real Fettuccini Alfredo
Our guide recommended Alfredo's to us. It was close to the Parthenon but would recommend asking for directions over there. It was an excellent meal and the waiter spoke perfect english (although he didn't think so.) At the end he gave our wives a box of fettuccini with the directions of the Alfredo Sauce on the box. This was supposed to be the place where Fettuccini Alfredo was invented!
Edward Lear
Cinti, OH USA Tue 11/29/2005

Eating in Sorrento
My husband and I flew to Italy for three glorious weeks. By the time we made our way to Sorrento, it was "off-season" (November, but still nice enough weather for a swim). Arriving at the train station, we wandered along the Via Marziale that leads to the left and had lunch at the Red Lion. (NO connection to the Red Lion in the States!) Excellent pizza and hot chocolate.

Rick's recommendation, the Pizzeria Giardiniello on Via Accademia, was also an enjoyable gastronomic experience for a very reasonable price. The tapas bar was closed, unfortunately. I was really curious about the Italian version of tapas.

One of the best and most sumptuous meals we had in Italy, totalling 60 euros for two, was at Ristorante Sorrento Inn on Via Fuoro. The waiter kept bringing us things we didn't order and when we questioned this he responded (in English---His dream was to become a diplomat and he wanted to practice) that he always did little extras for his customers. (Sorry, we didn't find out his name.) I can't guarantee that your waiter will bring you extra drinks and tidbits "on the house" but what you do order will be delicious (some dishes more memorable than others, but all good). The ambience would have been lovely had it not been for a loud group of Americans on another level who assumed everyone in the establishment wanted to hear their itinerary and what they were ordering for dinner.

Other than the three restaurant meals mentioned, we mostly bought picnic goodies at the Salumeria on Corso Italia near the laundromat. They have the best formaggio (try the aged Pecorino), pane integrale (whole grain bread), fichi (figs), and olive (try the deli mix), also panini (sandwiches) made to order. You can get a big lunch there for less than what we would pay for the figs alone in the States. In Italy, if you stick with the traditional foods such as those I mentioned, eating well is a bargain. My husband HAD to have his granola for breakfast, though, and that was pricier than what we pay at our local health food store in northern Cal.
Marilynn <email>
Willits, CA USA Sat 11/26/2005

Restaurants in Cortona
Sunday night at Taverna Pane e Vino as listed in Ricks was packed and fabulous food. Also please try the La Buccacia on via ghibellina they are a restaurnant vineria and cacioteca ( cheese preparations: YUM) We were also given a lesson in Olive oil making and types. We also stayed a long time and they kept bringing us cantucci and grappa and vin santo ( all free!)
Carolyn Martin
Naples, Italy Tue 11/22/2005

Rome and Florence restaurants
Hosteria dei Bastioni (which Rick mentions in his guide) was wonderful. The night my husband and I ate there, we were the only non-Italians. Lovely setting, the staff was great and the food was excellent. Dinner, wine, "water with gas," espresso and dessert ran us about 50 euro.

In Florence, I'd highly recommend Perseus, on the Viale Don Minzoni. Again, great staff (and they speak English! :), wonderful food. A whole slew of appetizers, a great bottle of Chianti, water, bistecca florentine for two and grilled veggies ran us about 55 euro. We were seated in the tiny brick wine cellar downstairs, illuminated only by candlelight - very romantic!

I can't for the life of me remember the name of the street this restaurant is on (sorry), but it's about a block from Viale Don Minzoni, up the street from the Hotel Meridiana, and just around the corner to the left. It's called Trattoria Pane e Olio, and it was terrific. A bit pricey, and the portions were what I guess would be considered "California cuisine" - but everything was of very high quality and artfully presented. Wonderful English speaking staff, and the chef wanders out to chat with you after your meal. Wine, water, food and after-dinner espresso and grappa ran about 100 euro (ouch - but it's worth it!).

Also wanted to reiterate what Rick says (and most guidebooks) about eating in tourist traps near the major sites. Completely uninspired food, bad wine, and waaay overpriced. Just say no! :)
Debra <email>
Rohnert Park, CA USA Sat 11/19/2005

Wonderful Restaurant in Rome
The two best meals I had in Rome were in a tiny (9 tables)gay restaurant called Edoardo II. Male/Female couples were there as well and only the most uptight conservatives might feel uncomfortable. The owner was charming, the music and food wonderful, the patrons (nearly all Italian)friendly. Pasta, large bottle mineral water, meat course, dessert, espresso and lemoncello came to 35 Euros. The place has no menu, Edoardo rattles off the options or suggests he just surprise you. It was everything a foreigner hopes a wonderful Italian restaurant would be! It's on Vicolo Margana 14 (3 or 4 blocks SW of Piazza Venezia
Gavin
Minnesota USA Mon 11/14/2005

Small Orvieto Gem
I was on the lookout for a cozy, charming place to hold a 50th birthday dinner on the 4th of July for a member of my tour group. I found the perfect spot just off Via Duomo at Via Luca Signorelli, 5: Trattoria La Grotta! The owner took care of our dinner menu, a special dessert, extra wine thrown in, and even hung an American flag at our table. He brought out small flags for each person and was extremely kind and made us feel very special! The owner's enthusiasm, good food, fair prices and convenient location made this one of the most enjoyable times of our 3-week trip throughout Italy! Give Trattoria La Grotta a try on your next visit to Orvieto...closed Tuesdays. Mangia Bene!!
Kathy
Portland, OR USA Sun 11/13/2005

Bellagio, Lake Como, Italy
Bellagio, on Lake Como, Italy is a special place for us. We have been there three times in the last 24 months. We stayed at La Limonera and Antico Pozzo (Salita Mella), apartment accomodations that were very roomy and affordable. Antico Pozzo also has a restaurant that is exceptional. We enjoyed going out to the bakery and store around the corner every morning for croissants, bread, and associated breakfast items and getting to know the proprietors of those places. Everyone was extremely friendly and helpful. We had lunch and dinner at Tratorria San Giancomo on Salita Serbelloni. We also had several delicious meals at La Punta Restaurant which is on the point at the top of Bellagio on the Lake.

We also made good friends with the three sisters who own the two M. Grandi shops. One on Salita Serbelloni and one on the main street fronting the lake. Biche, Maria Pia, and Carla are delightful, friendly, and very helpful ladies. Their beautiful smiles make you feel welcome as soon as you meet them. If you are visiting Northern Italy, be sure to put Bellagio on your itinerary.
Steve <email>
Spring, TX USA Tue 11/08/2005

NO Vote on Trattoria Anima Bella in Venice
I lunched at Trattoria Anima Bella in Venice in 2004 and felt it to be a total rip-off. We were charged €73 for 2 small bowls of soup, 2 medium bowls of pasta, two glasses of wine, a small bottle of water, and one cappuccino. There was a mandatory 15% service charge in addition to the €1.80 coperto each. Yes, our faults for trusting the waitress and not looking at a menu, but we'd had a similar non-menu lunch at Il Ritrovo in Florence for €32 and a gut busting dinner for €55 at Il Latini also sans menu. A group of older Americans left the restaurant without paying their total tab and were chased down by the cook and waitress. We were amused and a wee bit embarrassed until we got our bill and felt like making a run for it!
IDD <email>
Cordelia, CA USA Tue 11/08/2005

Rome and Tuscany
I agree with Melissa, pallero was the best restaurant in Rome...i rented a flat that was across the street from the restaurant there near campo de fiori...ended up going there more than once since i could see it from my window!

In Tuscany, i found a great cooking class near Greve...it was at an old farmhouse built in the 1500's, the cook was a wonderful woman, we spent all afternoon cooking, then ate dinner out on the patio and drank wine til midnight...the name of the place was poggio asciutto, it was awesome, they kept the class to 6 or 8 people. I was travelling alone and ended up making some incredible friends!
Sam <email>
Denver, CO USA Sun 11/06/2005

Tuscany Favorites
We've just returned from a fantastic vacation and wanted to share some very special places tucked away in the small town of Castelfiorentino. For a candlelight dinner overlooking a spectacular sunset, try Locanda Le Boscarecce Ristorante on the road to Renai, just outside of town. Unforgettable. Superb food graciously served. Worth the price. In town don't miss ZIMBO BAR AND PIZZERIA! Where the locals eat. Great people, great fun, Great food, great price. Ask for Cecilia, she speaks English well and is most helpful. We loved this place. It fit our budget and we went back every day. If you are needing some gelato, Mille Delizie (Di Torrini Anna C. Matteotti 36 , Castelfiorentino) will satisfy. All different, all memorable, all we will visit again.
Wendy and Dale
Allentown, PA USA Fri 11/04/2005

Anything I haven't yet tried (less soft meats)
Having been to Rome 5-ish other times, I came preparred with GPS and Rick's book. This time I saved 50% and better eating and sleeping, and more than that NOT being lost. Caffe dello Studente was probably the best eating deal I've had in rome, from the free apparitivo, to the fruit, bottles of grappa, limincello, and liquore put there at the end by Simona (yes, she's "perky") And she's freshly married to a similarly friendly local guy. I was suprised how close it is to the Colosseum. And You'd ahve liked how smiles bloomed on their faces as they saw "the book" on the table. Ristorante il Gabriello was also wonderful, with the best buffola mozzerella I've eaten in Italy, and "just bring it on" is DEFINITELY the way to order. Thanks!
Brian Vilders
Detroit, MI USA Thu 11/03/2005

Riomaggiore Dining
After a long day of traveling from Venice to Riomaggiore via Milan we ate dinner at a small restaurant called Il Controvelaccio located on the main street in Riommagiore at Via Colombo 236. Mara, the owner, was a WONDERFUL hostess. She spoke perfect English, as our Italian was terrible. Her homemade pesto was out of this world. Her individually made portions of Tiramisu was the best I've had hands down! We leasurely ate for hours enjoying the lovely porch seating that is usually reserved for regulars. I highly recommend Il Controvelaccio if you're ever find yourself hungry in Riomaggiore. My only regret was when we went back later in the week, the restaurant was closed for the night. I pray I'll get to visit Mara and her wonderful restaurant again!
Shawn S. Hjelmeland <email>
Cottage Grove, MN USA Thu 10/27/2005

Eat at Ristorante der Pallaro, Rome (not far from Pantheon)!
Eat at the family-run Ristorante der Pallaro, walking distance from the Pantheon in Rome. Wow! Our trip was in June 2004 and we still talk about this place! The food is great home-made stuff, you get all the courses plus wine and desert for 20 euros...check Rick's guidebook for current price and walking directions.

We were seated inside with the Italian-speaking regular customers and loved it. For some reason a lot of the customers seated outside on the patio were carrying Rick Steves guidebooks! We thought that was funny. Anyway this place is authentic, best food we had in Italy, great Italian atmosphere, fresh ingredients. A homey place with lively Italian conversations inside. Hubby and I plus my teen daughters and son all voted Ristorante der Pallaro our #1 favorite choice in Italy. There's no menu, you get what they feed you, and you'll be very pleased.

The only bad food we had in Italy was when we didn't use Rick's book and chose spontaneously.

since 2004, I have come across more recent travellers recommending this same restaurant.
Melissa <email>
San Diego, California USA Mon 10/24/2005

Wine Bar near Santa Croce Florence
For anyone looking for a great place to sit down relax and enjoy a great glass of Chianti, try Vinarius, located half way down Borgo S. Croce, 15R.

Danielle, who works the counter is American, but has lived in Florence for 5 years. Her dinner recommendations were outstanding! All were non tourist, local hangouts with excellent food, atmosphere and service. We had all levels, from 25 euros to 200 euros.

Vinarius has many great glasses of wine and offers tastings as well. It is not a meal stop, but a lovely winebar with cheese, bread, meat dishes to snack on and a host of good olive oils, spreads, panforte and wine to buy. They will ship and they have carry-on boxes as well.
Ann
Alexandria, Va USA Sat 10/15/2005

Flea market food in Orvieto
While recently in Orvieto, Italy the flea market food wagon included a man carving a whole pig. The panini porchetta was the best food of the whole trip. The peppery meat was a real hunk for a change, rather than that wimpy ultrathin prosciutto stuff for sale everywhere else. And the bread actually had flavor, none of that cardboard that you dip in olive oil. Thanks to guide Matt for suggesting it.
Harvey Lankford
Richmond, VA USA Thu 10/13/2005

Best Pizza - Corniglia
The best pizza I've ever had in my entire life was in Corniglia in the Cinque Terre. The name of the pizzeria was "La Gata Flore" and it was on the main road in town. If you get to the central piazza in town, you've gone too far. Its a tiny place with four stools and a ledge to set your pizza and drinks on. They have premade slices, but don't get them. Instead, order a fresh made pizza from their menu on the wall. My wife and I were doing the Cinque Terre hike and had a four cheese & pesto pizza that I'm getting excited about just writing this. If you do the Cinque Terre hike from Rick Steves book, plan on Corniglia as the place to stop and have lunch and have a pizza here, you won't regret it.
Greg
Aliso Viejo, CA USA Thu 10/13/2005

Mouthwathering Amalfi Coast
You just have to visit the Ristorante San Giovanni (WWW.ristorantesangiovanni.com) in Pontone a small village near Ravello on Italy's Amalfi Coast.We have just returned from a Med Cruise and our driver took us there as part of our Tour.Say hello to Silvio,Pina,Manuel and Domenico the Pizza Maestro
Jannifer Roberts
NY, NY USA Thu 10/13/2005

great restaurant in Assisi
ASSISI..

try the ristorante La Basilica..aptly named as it is literally behind Santa Maria del Angeli. Not only was the food great (the Panzanella salad still in my dreams..) the staff was so helpful. We were trying to find a laundromat. and they were jumping through hoops trying to figure out which ones were closed/open which days and hours.
gwen rogers <email>
arlington, va USA Fri 10/07/2005

Florence restaurant
Florence - Osteria Vineria i'Brincello (110 via del Nazionale, near the train station) was fabulous and thanks to the poster for the recommendation! We had prosciutto with melon and caprese salad for appetizers, chicken and beef entrees, tiramisu, wine and grappa. All total was 45 euro for dinner for two. The best value we found in Florence, for sure!
Devon
Vancouver, WA USA Fri 10/07/2005

Great neighborhood eaterie
Trattoria Pizzaeria Nuova Stella was a wonderful experience for our first day in Rome. The traditional menu we tested the gnocchi, spegetti,pizza and calamari. All very delicious meals with the house wine. Great atomosphere, eating outside or in. Tastfully decorated with excellent staff.
Bob Greene <email>
Henderson, NV USA Thu 09/29/2005

Venice eats
Pizza - at the foot of near the Accademia, or on the Foundeu Neuova (sp?) up near St Michelle Cemetary.

Dinner - Osteria De Carla (come early or later, or make reservations) GREAT FOOD and CHEAP BOTTLES OF WINE. 60 Euros for 2 with wine and 3 course meal and a really nice staff.
Jordan Buntain
Manhattan, NY USA Sun 09/25/2005

Milan Recommendation
We spent a few extra days in Milan before our Italy in 17 days trip. We found this delightful resteraunt called Da Ilia a couple of blocks from our hotel.

Situated north west of the Porta Venezia metro stop. North side of Giardini Pubblici.

It's run by an elderly Italian couple and the food was a little pricy but INCREDIBLE. I recommend reservations.

P.S. They don't speak much English but do have an English menu. Pointing worked out fine! =)

Da Ilia 20124 Milano-Via Lecco, 1 Tel 02.295.21.895
Matt
Erie, CO USA Sat 09/24/2005

Dining in Rome
We just got back from a 25 day trip to Italy. Our favorite restaurant has to have been Taverna del Quaranta about3 blocks from the Colloseum. We sat outside opposite the old city wall and a dog park. We were the only Americans at the restaurant. The food was great and was priced very well. Pasta around 6-8 euros and secondi 12-8 euros.
Bryant Welch <email>
Omaha, NE USA Thu 09/22/2005

good eats in rome
We just returned from a 15 day jaunt to Italy, Switzerland, and France. In Rome as well as other parts of Italy, the best restaurants were those not listed in Rick Steves Guidebooks. A lot of restaurants mentioned in Rick Steves books are now saturated with American tourists and the prices were generally higher with mediocre food! In Rome (2 blocks) from the Colosseum, we ate at a great restaurant called Luzzi. We only spent $31 Euros (approx. $38 USD) for 2 entrees, 1 bottle of nice Chianti (not house wine), 2 espresso, 1 dessert, one appetizer, and 1.5 Liter of bottled water. Service was great, wait staff spoke English. NO AMERICAN IN SIGHT!!!! Mostly either European travellers or Italians. When in Italy or any other part of Europe for that matter, best restaurants are ones either recommended by hotel concierge or ones you find just roaming around.
julie
beaverton, oregon USA Tue 09/20/2005

Rome
Rome - The Caffe dello Studente near the Colosseum is great fun. Simona greated us with much energy, served us her special drink and made recommendation for terrific meals prepared by her Mom. Told her we visited because she was in the Rick Steves Book and she proudly told us the page number. How charming! Must try.
Karen Marshall
Centreville, VA USA Sun 09/11/2005

Florence: You must try Giglio Rosso (in the 2005 Italy book), especially if you are staying at a hotel on Via Firenze (it's right around the corner). Anything on their antipasti menu is wonderful, and the gnocchi is the most amazing thing I tasted the whole time in Italy (which is really saying something). Word of warning: the portions are quite filling so do not over-order, or else you'll end up with a secondi piatti that you'll never touch. At most, do two courses.

Venice: If you are staying at the Hotel Astoria (by the way, great place) you must try gelato at "gelato fantasy around the corner, anything chocolate based is heavenly, but the zabaglione flavor is simply sinful. PLEASE AVOID eating at the Hotel Noemi's restaurant. Over-priced, portions small, not a good value at all (as we later discovered in restaurant comparision).

Pienza: If you ever find yourself in the tiny town of Pienza, Tuscany, make a reservation at Latte di Luna and order the pane de zuppa and young roasted pig for a main course (enough to split for 2 with a veggie). Order a small bottle of Nobile de Montepulciano, and enjoy the little old ladies wearing shawls and chatting in the square.

Rome: Ristorante Pizzaria Sacro e Profano by the Trevi fountain has an amazing pumpkin ravioli, and a great antipasti of prosciutto, cheese and walnuts. Good luck trying to find the street but it is in the book 2005.
erin4a <email>
CA USA Sun 09/04/2005

Grill & Wine at Hotel White- Rome
I was in Rome on the Assumption holiday, so very little was open, but we managed to find this great restaurant at the Hotel White. It's simply called Grill & Wine Restaurant at Via Arcione 74, not far from the Trevi Fountain. Had the most amazing carpacchio... who knew raw meat could be so delicious? My pasta was made with prawns and zucchini flowers... wonderful! And the tartuffo was a delicious end. Highly recommended.
Lindsey <email>
Denver, CO USA Thu 09/01/2005

Venice, Milan, and Siena
Venice: Ai Gondolieri near Accademia Bridge. We LOVE this restaurant. We visit Venice every 6 months and must eat there. Go hungry and order the sample menu. Tons of wonderful food. Great atmosphere and attentive staff.

Milan:Ristorante Pizzeria Calafuria Unione Words cannot describe the pizza. Best we have ever had anywhere. We also love the staff!

Siena: Antica Osteria Da Divo Loved it! Amazing atmosphere, spectacular food. We are visiting again this November and already have our reservation!
Starr <email>
Parker, CO USA Wed 08/31/2005

La Spezia restaurant
We were stuck in La Spezia for a few hours (watch those broken train station signs without a worker to be found anywhere late at night!) and were starving. Down the hill from the train station is Il Pomodoro pizzeria. Fantastic pizza, chic styling, good prices & cold beer. The staff SE. Tel 0187/739911
Geoff
Springfield, MO USA Tue 08/30/2005

restaurant in florence
Does anyone know where the La Marinicia restaurant in Florence is located? Someone recommended this restaurant, but couldn't remember where it is, the street address.
bob <email>
bowie, md USA Tue 08/30/2005

Seafood
The Regina Restaurant in Rosalina (south of Venice in Rovigo province) gave us the best fried seafood meal we've ever had. The service was also excellent. Rosalina is pretty close to some really nice beaches too. German tourists love the area although American and Canadian tourists haven't really discovered it. Anyway, if you love seafood, it's a great place for it.
Lori Michelini
Calgary, Alberta Canada Thu 08/25/2005

Ciak in Monterosso al Mare
I was recently in Monterosso al Mare, and wanted to share an excellent restaurant I found. It is Ciak and is located in the Old City. If you are headed to the beautiful Cinque Terre, check it out! The food was amazing and the waiters were all very kind. Thank you Ciak, for an unforgettable dining experience!
SJ
Seattle, Washington USA Wed 08/24/2005

Restaurant in Rome
The best restaurant in Rome we ate at hands down was Il Gabriello near the Spanish Steps.
Alex B.
Seattle, WA USA Thu 08/18/2005

Why do we pay for bread and service charges
Many of the posters below have complained about having to pay a cover charge, and to pay for other things such as bread that we in the U.S. receive for free. I know several restaurant owners in Italy, as I go there several times a year. These owners complain because they say that people will come into their restaurant and order one dish that is very inexpensive, such as a pizza, and then share it, and eat lots of bread, and take up the table for a long time. They said that they had to start charging for bread and other items so as to not go out of business, because tourists who order little, and take up table space are hurting their business....Sometimes we have to understand their point of view!
Mary Indelli <email>
Pacific Palisades, Calif USA Mon 08/15/2005

near Milan Central Train Staion
We spent the night before our departure from Italy in Milan at the Best Hotel. They recommended a wonderful little restaurant to us. It is called Pane a Pane Vino a Vino. I don't remember the street name. It was only about 2 or 3 blocks from the hotel. The woman who waited on us seemed genuinely pleased to see us. She told us that they don't see many tourists. The food was wonderful and very reasonably priced. They spoke english and got real kick out of helping us to pronounce the italian words on the menu. My husband had an unusual dish. The menu said "fried Pizza". It was small pizza dough balls that had been fried and were puffed up like the mexican dessert sopapillas. There was a platter of thin sliced deli meats that accompanied the fried dough balls. You stuffed the meat into the dough balls and would eat them like little sandwiches. He really enjoyed the dish. We also ordered risotto. They told us it would take 20 minutes since they made it fresh when you placed the order. It was flavored with smoked cheese and was the best we had anywhere. If the service we received here is typical, this place is a real gem. The neighborhood can be a little sketchy at night but, I would definitely seek this place out.
Anna Drake <email>
Garland, TX USA Sat 08/06/2005

Rome Dining
I've been an avid reader of this board and would like to pass along my suggestions for dining in Rome. Although La Zucca Gialia has been recommended on this board many times, I was very disappointed. The food was good, and the overall value is excellent. However if you are looking for a fine dining experience with good wine, you will be disappointed. Although I drink house wine everywhere I go in Italy, I returned the house wine (first time ever) because it was carbonated and undrinkable. The service was also very unprofessional, with a young staff that was uninterested in all of the customers in the restaurant. This would be a terrific place for a casual lunch, though, as the food is very good and the prices fantastic. Il Gabriello, 51 via Vittoria near the Spanish Steps, was the best dining experience in Rome. Great food, intimate atmosphere, fantastic prices, and professional service.
BK
NJ USA Fri 08/05/2005

Mouthwatering Italy
The pizza in Italy is absolutely the food of the Gods. It makes our very best pizzas taste like crap.
Laura <email>
MN USA Tue 07/26/2005

Fantastic Venetian restaurant
Walking in venice, my mother and i came across a tiny restaurant in San Marco. The woman who owned the restaurant made everything daily, so the menu is limited. We went twice during our two day stay in Italy, and enjoyed watching people stumble upon this restaurant and watch their faces when they took their first bite. Everyone thought it was the best restaurant they have been too in Italy. THe name is Anima Bella.

THe information on the card is Calle Fiubera- S. Marco, 956 telephone 041.5227486
kristy Stasiak <email>
Orchard Park, NY USA Mon 07/25/2005

Siena and Rome
A couple good places...

In Siena we went to Nonno Il Mede on Camporegio right by San Domenico. It was recommended by our hotelier and it was really wonderful. It has a great view of the Duomo and the waitstaff is very friendly. It fills up fast; we went right at 7:45 when it opened. We also tried Rick's recommendation of Osteria la Chiacchera in Siena. The food was good and the price was great; however, the inside dining rooms are VERY, VERY warm and the manager (?) was a little intimidating.

Our hotelier in Rome recommended Vecchio Roma...it should be near the Vittorio Emamuele subway stop on a street that begins with an F (Ferruccio?). You go downstairs into the dining room and the tourist menu was very nice.
Liz
Philadelphia, PA USA Sun 07/24/2005

Florence
In Florence we were recommended by our hotel clerk to not eat at Il Latini in favor of an Osteria down the street serving authentic Tuscan fare, "Osteria Vineria i'Brincello". We loved the meal. Our entrees included ravioli in butter and sage, cingalle (wild boar, delicious) with papardelle and the best pomodore sauce we had in Italy over pasta. The bread was fabulous. The place is packed w/ locals, few or no tourists and gets pretty jammed.Our meal was inexpensive. It's near the train station on via Nazionale 110/r/ 055 282645. If you get tired of traditional Italian fare and want something a little different, try "Trattoria Tirovino", Via Ghibellina, 70 rosso, www.tirovino.com. The price is moderate and the food is light gourmet Italian, with the one son as Chef and the other as waiter, while Mom and Dad greet guests at the door. Dad lived in NY and can speak English very well. Mom gives out after dinner drinks to guests who entertain! I'm a professional impressionist and sang for them and was paid with shots of "Passito Di Pantelleria". I have no idea what it was, but it was delicious! Lovely meal and people. Tell them "Marilyn Monroe" sent you and say hello for me! Also, In Siena, Rick is on the mark with Key Largo right off the square at Il Campo (look for the Perfumeria). the owner, Michele, is a Tom Cruise look-alike who does fancy tricks w/ his bottles of booze. The picture I got from the secret door overlooking Il Campo is one of the best in Italy (even though my Mother took it!). And if you're looking for a hotel in Siena, you can't go wrong with the charming Borgo Grondaie www.borgogrondaie.com) A little out of the way, but lovely and like staying on someone's private estate. Gaia and the girls at the front desk are wonderful. There is also a giant supermarket (The Coop) nearby where you can buy incredibly priced cheeses, olives, breads, etc. to take back to your kitchenette. The pool opens in June and they have bikes, as well. Bon Voyage!
Holly Faris <email>
Lower Gwynedd, PA USA Fri 07/22/2005

Rome
We discovered a wonderful restaurant on our stay in Rome. We were looking for a place that was not catering to tourists, and our guide in Rome suggested LA TANA DEI GOLOSI. They are a "slow food" movement restaurant. Each month they feature a different region of Italy. They were most gracious of our group of twelve. Not much English spoken, but that is what we were looking for. Wonderful food, and wines, served in a relaxed atmosphere. Their web site is: www.latanadeigolosi.it
Robin <email>
Hemet, CA USA Mon 07/18/2005

Il Pirata Delle Cinque Terre, Vernazza!!
Eating at Il Pirata Delle Cinque Terre in Vernazza was far and away the best and most enjoyable dining experience I had in my 3 months in Europe. I visited 8 countries and did not find a better place to eat. Gianluca, Massimo and Sonia provide an atmosphere that will make you want to go back and visit them every day. The pasta, which is all made on-site, was amazing. Every dish was outstanding and the prices are very good. The desserts were perfect and are a must even if you are full from your delicious dinner. And finally the pastries. Gianluca is a magician as a pastry master. I took the train from Monterossa to Vernazza early in the morning to enjoy pastries and cappuccino. Gianluca and Massimo will have you laughing and smiling the whole evening and at the end of the night you will have two new friends who will know you by name. I can't wait to go back!!
Tim <email>
Seattle, WA USA Tue 07/12/2005

Trattoria Il Bargello
I want to take a moment to share my wonderful dinner at Trattoria Il Bargello in Florence in June. We began the evening looking for Ecce' Che Che from Rick's guidebook. When we found it, it was full of "Steve-ista's" (our nickname for Rick Steve's followers). Everyone did seem to be having a great time, but I wanted to hang with locals, not fellow American tourists. We turned down the next alley, and stumbled upon Trattoria Il Bargello, where handsome Ruben pulled us in for dinner. Quiet and small, there was only 1 other table of people, and they left shortly after we sat down. Ruben served not just great food, but excellent conversation (in remarkable English and simple ITalian for us beginners). I had fabulous ribollito soup and rosemary lamb, my best meal by far. Ruben seemed genuinely interested in our conversation, and was not just a waiter looking for an extra tip. When we left he hugged my mother and I and said he "wished all of his customers could be like us." I'm still not quite sure what he meant by that, but I would highly reccomend this restaurant for the fabulous food, good conversation, and genuine Florentine hospitality. I'll forward the address later.
Elizabeth <email>
Seattle, WA USA Tue 07/12/2005

Best dining in Florence
In Florence, definitely make a reservation at "Acqua Al 2", Via della Vigna Vecchia, tel.055 284170. The lovely Luchia treated us like family, while serving dishes for two, pasta samplers, main dishes like balsalmic steak, and a dessert sampler with the best teramisu that I ever had. Carafe of water, bottle of wine and great breads, bill with service 56 euro. An intimate, upscale dining room, and alot of fun. We went back twice. Also, gelato at the Ponta Vecchio, reasonable and delicious.
Cheryl <email>
Charlestown, RI USA Sat 07/09/2005

Ciak in Monterosso
We just returned from two weeks in Italy. Most of our meals were delightful, except for extremely rude service at the restaurant Ciak in Monterosso al Mare.
LJ
Niantic, CT USA Sat 07/09/2005

Fabulous restaurant in Florence
Fabulous restaurant in Florence!! www.samovarfirenze.it Check it out, you won't be sorry. It's not cheap nor is it outrageously over priced. Well worth it for an unforgetable meal in a totaly un-touristy gorgeous ambiance.
carmel <email>
Florence, Italy Fri 07/08/2005

Eating in Varenna, Lake Como and Venice
Verenna, Lake Como - Steve was right on with recommending Hotel Oliveda for dinner. Their spinach and ricotta ravioli is the best ravioli I have ever had. The Gnocchi with Pesto is excellent too as are their grilled fish dishes.

Also, the Nilus Bar is an awesome spot for views, beer and great ice cream sundaes.

Venice - Again, Rick recommended a great restaurant in Trattoria da Giorgio ai Greci near St. Mark's square. We ate outside right on small canal. Their lasagne was fantastic - very creamy ricotta filling. And the salmon was amazing too. If you go with the Tourist menu at 17 euros, you don't pay a cover or service charge.
Shannon Teslow <email>
Fort Collins, CO USA Sat 07/02/2005

Ostaria da Giovanni ar Galletto in Rome
Having been to Italy for the first time in 2001 (with Rick as my ETBD guide)I was fortunate enough to return for my fourth trip this April bringing along 29 of my relatives. We traveled to the small town my grandparents came from in Puglia. We even met with relatives for the first time.

To dine in Italy, is to savor an exceptionally sensual part of this beautiful culture. The sight, smell and taste of a good Italian meal is a wonderfully satisfying experience. We had the most unbelievable afternoon meal in Osteria Cucco,Gravina de Puglia Tel 0803261872. Course after course of local delicacies made it a meal I will never forget. And our relatives serenaded us with O Sole Mio. Simply divine!

On our first trip to Rome in 2001 we dined at Ostaria da Giovanni ar Galletto near Piazza Farnese. It was a very memorable meal back in 2001. However when we returned this April, we encountered a couple of disappointing experiences. While the food was good, we were brought out (and charged for)extra bowls of bread we didn't ask for or eat. And when the bill came it was written in such as way that it was impossible to figure out. The amount seemed to be much higher than what we had expected. When my husband asked for a breakdown of the bill, suddenly nobody spoke English. And they offered to give us Limoncello on the house. He asked for owner, who after reviewing the bill took $45.00 off the total. The moral of the story- Be wary of padded restaurant checks. This happened in another retsaurant in Rome as well. We did not however, seem to find this practice in other parts of the country...
Barbara Lyons
NJ USA Fri 07/01/2005

Venice and outside of Florence restaurants
We just returned to from our 20th anniversary trip to Europe and couldn't help but tell others about two marvelous restaurants we encountered.

In Venice, we found an incredible restaurant

It's out of the way a bit, but the food and view are worth it. Not easy to find (but what is in Venice) It's very reasonably priced, fabulous food, quiet, uncrowded, quaint, friendly owner, and overlooks the water.

It's literally in a boat yard on La Giudecca overlooking the harbor. The owner was so accomodating and friendly.

Restaurant is called Ristorante Mistra on Guidecca 212 A. Telephone number is 041/5220743. So here's how to get there.

Take the 41/42 Vaparetti from San Zaccaria (San Marco) to Redentore on Giudecca. There's some construction going on near the stop but don't let that throw you off. At the Redentore Fermata, follow the waterfront toward Rio del Ponte Lungo. There's a gate with a sign to Mistra just before you turn on Fondamenta a fianco del Ponte Lungo. When we were there the gate was closed so we went down Fondamenta along the canal. Just after the bridge you'll see the Mistra sign to your left. Follow the sign into the boatyard area. Go around the brick building following the signs to Mistra. When you are in the boatyard facing the water, continue walking toward the harbor. You'll see a stairway at the end of the building. The restaurant is up the stairs, second story and overlooking the water. It sounds more complicated to get there than it is but you'll have a wonderful dinner with such a view.

Florence area...if you have a car

We stayed at Hotel Villa Casagrande in Figline Valdarno and HIGHLY recommend this place as one of the most romantic, decently priced places we have stayed. The restaurant there is beautiful with great food and lovely outdoor garden setting. We ate there three of the four nights because it was such a treat.

Enjoy
Diane
Chicago, IL USA Thu 06/30/2005

Parma
We stayed at Relais Fontevivo Via Roma 1/A - 43010 Fontevivo (Parma) tel. +39 0521 611007 for 1 night. It is an old monastery with a lovely restaurant. We asked for "whatever the chef wants to fix" and received plates of parma cheese, different hams, local wine (4.5% al), and a wonderful meal for less than 100E for 4 people. We took the www.parmagolosa.it tour of the cheese, vinegar and ham concerns the next day. One of the highlights of our trip and highly recommended--even by the teens.
Amart
USA Thu 06/30/2005

The best taste in Venice - 27/6/05
I don't know what to call it but it sure was good: in the Calle della Chiesa in Dorsoduro (Venice) .. about halfway between the Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim, at the east end of the street on the side away from the Grand Canal .. a very small snack bar with an open window to the street had filled vegetable pies on display. The ricotta and arugula looked really good but the family from Texas who saw us standing around suggested we try the vegetable (onion, 2 kinds of peppers, mushrooms, etc.). We listened; they were right (having had it 6 times that week - the kids were complaining but Dad was adamant).

Outstanding!

Don't know the official address or the name of the shop; it's a couple of doors west of 'Il Pavone' stationery store.

Look for it.
Rick <email>
Cincinnati, OH USA Thu 06/30/2005

Italy Restaurants
Myself, my significant other, and my Mom have just returned from our two week Italy trip, and I wanted to comment on some of the places we ate.

In Venice: Our best meal was at the Taverna San Trovaso at their "new" restaurant located just behind the Academia -- we splurged on a nice bottle of wine (a Nebbiolo. Their "old" restuarant close by on the canal is maybe more charming, but we had a nice evening at the new location.

Our first night in Venice we ate at Casin del Nobili -- the atmosphere was nice but I thought the food was just OK.

We had a nice though not exceptional lunch after a hot morning at St. Mark's square at Osteria da Carla.

Our nicest lunch was a picnic on the balcony of our hotel (Pensione Calcina, which we liked a lot) with supplies from the well-stocked "Billa" supermarket that RS recommends.

Florence:

We had some good meals in florence! RS's recommendations were right-on here - Osteria del Porcellino (Via Valdi Lamona 7, near mercado nuovo) was super, as was Trattoria Nella. We had an OK dinner at one of the Cafe La Posta's, but around the post office there are a number of resturants with similar names, and we ate at the one actually in back of the building, so I'm not sure that was the RS recommended one.

We much preferred the Gelateria dei Neri to Gelateria Carrozze.

Sorrento: We had a fabulous dinner at Ristorante Delfino at Marina Grande on our first night -- waitstaff are delightful, and the seafood was the best (skip dessert, though, for a gelato on the walk home). We got there early (7:00) and dined to amazing view of Vesuvius and Frank Sinatra leaving just before the "traditional music" band arrived at 9:00.

We were never able to find Osteria Gatto Nero with the RS's provided map. We did enjoy a couple of very good pizza dinners at Pizzeria da Gigino (RS recommendation) where the food was good, the house wine was way too warm (do they keep it by the stove?), and the service was efficient but not so warm.

Rome:

We stayed near the Coloseum at Hotel Lancelot (super), and one of our best and worst meals was nearby. The restaurant Isidoro (recommended by the hotel) had really good food and friendly service. However, we took a chance on a pizzaria just down the road from it where the wine was watered, and the pizza salty and burned. I've (un?)fortunately forgotten the name.

We tried to eat lunch at Trattoria Luzzi (Via del San Giovanni in Laterano) one day, but althogh there were lots of empty tables, they refused (not politely) to sit a party of 5 together (2 friends from Paris had joined us in Rome). We said fine, and walked just down the street a bit to La Naumachie where they were polite, more than happy to sit a party of 5, and where we had an enjoyable lunch.

Another nice lunch was at Ristorante Enteca Corsi near the Pantheon where the wait staff was adorable, the wine was great (we choose a 13 Euro Nebbiolo - Cordero di Montezemolo 2002, which we liked enough to buy another bottle of on the way out), and the food was both good an inexpensive. The acoustics in the dining are aren't the best though (a bit noisy).

We didn't actually end up getting picnic supplies from Antica Salumeria near the Pantheon (it was too hot to picnic for us!), but just wondering through the little shop was enough to get your appetite ready on a hot day.

All in all, I thought we ate pretty well, with on 1 or 2 disappointments!
Jon Gilliam <email>
Sharon Hill, PA USA Wed 06/29/2005

Great Italian Food
We found an awesome restaurant in Rome near the train station where you can create your own pasta dish or pizza. The portions are huge and the selection is great. It's called Pizzerito/Pasterito and it's a chain so we ate there in Florence too!
Leah <email>
Victoria, BC Canada Sun 06/26/2005

Good Eats in Manarola
We stayed in Manarola in Cinque Terre in early June of 2005. The food at Ostello 5-Terre was delicious and affordable. In addition, as you walk the main street from the Ostello down to the sea, there are little take out pizza places every 50 feet or so. The pizza slices and focaccia bread with pesto and cheese are about as great as they can be and only cost about $1.50-$3.00. I wish I was back there. I think I gained about 5 pounds during the 2 days I was there.
spey <email>
East Moline, IL USA Fri 06/24/2005

Avoid Il Latini in Florence!!
I hate to contradict Rick, because just about everything else he recommends is right on target, but I have to mention our dinner recently at Il Latini in Florence. We waited outside for a half hour, in a long line, until the doors opened at 7:30 pm. Then the circus started. The guy at the door, who presumably did not take reservations (as all of us in line had been told) started calling out names for people who had reservations. What the heck? We finally got a table, and proceeded to have a mediocre meal in a very loud and rushed atmosphere. The phone was ringing off the wall, waiters and managers were yelling over the regular restaurant noise, etc. It was pretty awful, and though the food was decent, I think we would've been much better off at a nice quiet trattoria somewhere else in the city. God knows there are enough of them.
susan
Trenton, NJ USA Tue 06/21/2005

Tips and Service Charge
This happens in really TOURISTY places.

Another thing is that we do NOT tip in Italy - even if it says service NOT included, it is NOT our custom to do so. If you want to leave a few coins, but please don't do 20% Manhattan tipping!!

As for the places listed below, do not frequent them - not every place is like this and those charges are ridiculous, but cave canem!

EXTRA Services charges in some cities in Italy I just return from a trip to Pisa, Florence and the Cinque Terre, Volastra Portofino, Levanto, 2 days ago.I want everyone to be aware of services charges in Portofino and the Cinque Terre. I was shocked nowhere in Steve's books do I remember reading about the exorbitant charges they add to your bill. It's possible it was there but in my excitement didn't pay attention to it.

Here it goes the food in Italy was great I just wasn't prepared for all the extra the tack onto the bill.

1- they charge a cover charge for Linen and utensils. I'm not sure if they expected us to eat with our fingers, or to provide our own. In Portofino we were charged $5.00 per person for cover charge not including the bread.

2-Bread basket 4 slices of thin bread for 3 people at most restaurant was between $2.50- 3.50 per basket. I made the mistake of asking for butter for the bread and was charged $2.50 for small slice of butter.My husband ordered a beer and ask for a slice of Lemon we were charged $1.99 for the slice of lemon that he stick inside the beer. We each had a pizza for $6.99

I had ask for tap water the waiter brought a carafe with the name of acqua portabile, the charge was $3.50. I had calculated in my mind with the beer that was $6.99, 2 pizza at 6.99 the total should be $21.00 plus tax and tip it should be $27.00. I had the biggest shock when the bill came and it $48.00. I had to ask the waiter in my broken Italian what all the charges where? He explains there's a cover charge for the linen and utensils, charge for the bread and butter. I told him i didn't want to pay for the slice of lemon that it was too high, he got mad and told me that was the way it was in Italy. i asked to speak to the MGR, I explained i tought some of the charges were uncalled for specially the slice of lemon. Also it doesn't specify on the menu all these were going to be extra, I felt it should have been clearer. He got angry and he told me to stay in America.

I had learn my lesson the hard way. My next stop was in the Cinque Terre I made sure I ask the waiter if the bread was part of the cover charge, and ask for Olive oil and balsamic vinegar instead to dip the bread since they don't charge for it. I made sure they charge by the carafe for the water not by person. Ordering beer we asked if there's a charge for the lemon some places said yes some said no.

We had a great experience at this restaurnt in Manoralo where we stayed.They only charge once for cover charge not by person, 1 carafe of water.

In Florence Il Paci off via Nerie no cover charge, dinner for 2 people was $21.00 Riomaggiore Grotto restaurant 1 cover charge no extra for the olive oil or balsamic vinegar. For 3 People the price was $46.00I hope this help someone else. I was ill prepared for the extras.
Mario <email>
Florence, Italy Tue 06/21/2005

La Fortezza in Assisi
Hotel La Fortezza is recommended in the guide, and justly so, a large comfortable, quiet room, but no mention of the restaurant. After our first meal there, I could hardly drag my husband elsewhere. The duck was the best I have ever eaten, desserts were scrumptious. The hotel and restaurant are family run, with our most friendly hosts in all our trip. I highly recommend.
Nora Dailey <email>
KY USA Tue 06/21/2005

Favorite Restaurants: Tuscany and Stresa
During a recent three week trip to Italy, two restaurants were so good that we re-visited both. About 14 miles NE of Siena,near the Tuscan village of San Regolo, at the Castle Brolio, we found a real jewel: Osteria del Castello. The fried zucchini blossoms were my birthday treat; better than any cake! Everything was excellent: the food, the service, the staff and the ambiance. Chef Seamus O'Kelly (a charming transplanted Irishman)teaches a Tuscan "Scuola di Cucina" (school of cooking) that was a highlight of our stay. Seamus was as good as any chef on FoodTV and I've had raves about his recipes that I've served since we returned. Our other favorite restaurant was Lo Stornello in Stresa: The guinea hen in Barolo sauce and the chocolate glazed pear cake were both reason enough to return! We'll never forget the gracious hospitality of owner Guido: he personally drove us back to our hotel when a sudden rainstorm would have made walking unpleasant. What wonderful people; what marvelous food! We can't wait to go back to Italy.
Jack & Carole Varney <email>
Atlantic Beach, FL USA Mon 06/20/2005

Breakfast
I rely on a solid breakfast to get my day started. In Italy I love to go to the local bar or bakery for "brioche" and cappuccino. For protein I buy bags of the individual cheeses called Bon Bel. When I am staying in one place for a while I keep yogurt, cereal, and fresh fruit in my room. Usually I eat in my room and then go out for the cap and brioche. I've stayed in some Italian hotels that provide a high- carb-with-coffee breakfast, but still rely on myself to provide the protein.
Swan
USA Sun 06/19/2005

Eating in Colle di Val d'Elsa
Colle di Val d'Elsa is a sleepy medieval hill town near San Gimignano, Siena, etc. Excellent location but does not attract many (any) tourists. Two recommendations. 1) Gimmy Gio's Pizzeria. Sounded a bit hokey but the place had great atmosphere right down to Gimmy (i.e. Jimmy) himself. Great, modestly priced food ... very kid friendly and a wonderful, interactive staff and owner. Didn't really check to see what all the service charges were but a great dinner for a family of 5 ended up in the 60-70 Euro range ... quite reasonable I thought. 2) Molino Il Morro. A more upscale but still friendly restaurant built inside a medieval water mill building. Reasonably sophisticated menu (too sophisticated for our tastes) but the food was great. It's also packed with real families with kids and the staff was fantastic ... we have very finnicky kids. A dinner for our family of 5 + 2 additional adults, with good wine and grappa afterwards was just shy of 200 Euro. Frankly, my heart and stomach still goes to Gimmy ... Colle is an amazing place if you want to experience Italy before the tour buses ...
Tom Lee <email>
Waterloo, ON Canada Mon 06/13/2005

Rome & Florence great eats!
Dino and Tony's in Rome was great. My husband and I let them bring us their choice, as recommended on this board. Everything was excellent, however we received two pasta dishes each! I was very disappointed because I was too full to get a chance to taste the lamb that looked so yummy at the table next to us. If you get a chance to try Dino & Tony's let them bring you their choice of antipasti, but you may want to tell them one pasta choice and one secondi to split between two people. Bring a translation book, as they speak very little English!

In Florence the absolute best meal we had in all of Italy was at Aqua al Due. It was full of American tourists, but we enjoyed sharing our experiences in our native language for one night. They have a pasta sampler that the chef brings his choice of 5 types of pasta. The secondi sampler includes 3 choices of beef (my favorite I can't remember the name, but the second choice on the secondi menu has been in my dreams for weeks!) and a desert sampler that had 4 selections. It was a wonderful chance to taste a few different things, while not spending too much money! We spent about 65 Euro for two and that included bottled water and two bottles of house wine. It was worth every penny! Sooo delicious we ate there twice! You must make reservations at least a day in advance and I'm sorry, but I don't remember the address, but seek this place out!
Amy H
Graham, NC USA Fri 06/10/2005

Tips on eating in Italy
Afraid you'll gain weight in Italy? Fear not I lost. Here are tips we learned: "Breakfast provided" only means some crescents, maybe two kinds of cereal and instant coffee. All carbs were difficult for me too early in the day. I needed some type of protein. Meat and cheese shops were finally our savior. We went in as early as they opened and bought items for the day to keep in our day pack to snack on. Also, we were pleased with Steves recommended places except they seemed to be more expensive than we had expected. We could spend $25-$30 just on lunch each day! Take advantage of the cheese and meat shops and eat gelato every day b/c all the exercise burns it off anyway!
Shanna
Atlanta, GA USA Thu 06/09/2005

Eating in Italy
We just returned from 7 wonderful days in Italy. Rick's guides are helpful for some things, but we were kind of disappointed with the food selections. It may be because we only had the Italy guide, rather than the city guides, but it seemed like every restaurant we picked from his book was only packed with other Rick Steve's readers. Not exactly the backdoor atmosphere that we were hoping for. Also- becareful when planning your bedget by Rick's book. Many of the places we ate at were a few euro more than his reviews suggested. But here are some suggestions: Venice- There's a little campo called Millione not too far from San Marco (about 1/2 way to the Rialto) There are two small restaurants with outdoor seating- both looked excellent. We ate at one of them and had a great dinner of fresh scallops with paparadelle pasta. The recommendation for Tratoria da Carla near Piazza San Marco needs to be updated. The food was good, but more upscale than I was expecting from the description. Plus, it's a tiny dining room and all but 2 tables were filled with AMericans holding Rick's book. The DaVinci Gelato place near the Rialto no longer stays open late. Florence: Ristorante di Bibo across the Arno from the Uffizzi was one of Rick's better picks. Lots of Americans, again, but the food and atmosphere were worth it. Also, there's a small restaurant right next door to the Gelato place Rick says is the most famous in Florence. No outdoor seeting, but shared tables and great food. In Rome, DEFINITELY do the night walk- and start it with a wonderful dinner in Piazza Navona. Also check out some of the restaurants near the Pantheon. I know it's a bit touristy and a bit more expensive, but the atmosphere at night is something you can't get anywhere else.
Lisa
Champaign, IL USA Wed 06/08/2005

Montalcino
For anyone going to southern Tuscany, with even the slightest interest in wine, go to the following link for a wonderful article. www.winexmagazine.com/3point2/sr.htm

I'm happy to offer more personalized information if you wish, just drop me an E-mail.
Ken <email>
Naples, FL USA Tue 06/07/2005

wine tour in tuscany
there was a "teaser" re: winery tours from "ken" "Winery Tours in Tuscany Meghan,In what area of Tuscany will you be staying?Let me know and I'll post some good recomendations for you." I'll be in Montalchino and would love a recommendation. Ken Naples,?FL ? USA ? Mon 03/07/2005
USA Mon 06/06/2005

Rules for Dining in Italy
It's good to know the "rules" that apply in different countries. The cover charge and service charges are pretty standard in Italy. You can ask the waiter, but don't expect them to tell you not to leave a tip (they will not be offended by the extra money). Trickier are the rules that you only learn by experience. I was in an outdoor, casual eatery in Varenna a couple of years ago. After eating my meal I decided I wanted some gelato. Since I didn't know what flavors they had, and since my waitress didn't speak English and I was pretty sure we would have a serious communication problem if I asked her the flavore, I left my table, walked over to the gelato display and chose my flavor. I told the waitress standing there what I wanted and returned to my table. Well! I figured out later that I was NOT to do that. First I got a dish of the wrong flavor which I sent back. Then I got the right flavor, delivered by a man, who proceded to chew me out about what a mistake I had made by getting up, etc. I was pretty shocked at this treatment...chewing out a customer in any country seems like pretty bad business to me. After I had paid (no tip) and left, I realized I had been short-changed by as much as they could manage. What did I learn? There are rules you learn only by breaking them. Also, I don't return to places in any country where they are rude to me. And that includes my own country.
Swan
USA Fri 06/03/2005

DLF mensa
I can not visit this page without shouting praise for the DLF Mensa in Venice Great Food great Price local non tourist feel no ambiance great italian smiles this is train employees caferteria all welcome to the right of staion 100 yards there are signs
John Brangwin <email>
Bellevue, Wa USA Thu 06/02/2005

Extra Charges - Any Advice?
Extra Charges

How does one know about the extra charges especially those expressed by Maggie on 5/26 with service charges for Linen and Silverware? Is this a scam or something you need to clear before sitting at a table in Italy.
Kevin
Chicago, IL USA Wed 06/01/2005

Sicilian granitas in Florence
If you're in Florence and won't be getting to Sicily, you've got to go to Carabe on Via Ricasoli for Sicilian granitas made by Sicilians (they also serve gelato, but the granitas are the perfect antidote to a gelato habit that has gotten out of control). Unlike the the hypercolored slush you'll see elsewhere churning in all too familiar looking platic dispensers, this is the real thing. With no fat you get an incredibly intense and refeshing taste that beats gelato hands down. (This tip was courtesy of a Bon Appetit article.)
Joan B <email>
Andover, MA USA Wed 06/01/2005

Dino & Tony's in Rome
Dino & Tony's in Rome is excellent! Not far from the Vatican, at Via Leone IV, 60. Go for lunch and let Dino or Tony bring the food they want to serve you that day - you'll love it! The Antipasti Misti platter offers a great selection of appetizers to try. An authentic Italian experience.
Cathy K. <email>
Austin, Tx USA Tue 05/31/2005

Blue Marlin Bar, ask for Massimo
The White Russian (powered by Dido)I had at Blue Marlin Bar in Vernazza, Italy would have sparked interest from The Dude himself. What added most to the overall sensory stimulation was the Matthew McConaughey impression on the bongos performed by DJ Massimo. Blue Marlin bar is the best bar the greater La Spezia area.
Dustin Yaworsky <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Mon 05/30/2005

Florence - La Spada
La Spada (recommended by Rick) was great. The fantasy/flight?? was good course after course. All three of us got it and I actually think we could have just ordered 1 or 2 portions to feed us all! One warning: yes the brown stuff on your crostini is liver patte! The pasta course and the mixed roast are fabulous though!
Angie <email>
Orlando, FL USA Fri 05/27/2005

EXTRA Services charges in some cities in Italy
I just return from a trip to Pisa, Florence and the Cinque Terre, Volastra Portofino, Levanto, 2 days ago.I want everyone to be aware of services charges in Portofino and the Cinque Terre. I was shocked nowhere in Steve's books do I remember reading about the exorbitant charges they add to your bill. It's possible it was there but in my excitement didn't pay attention to it.

Here it goes the food in Italy was great I just wasn't prepared for all the extra the tack onto the bill.

We had a great experience at this restaurnt in Manoralo where we stayed.They only charge once for cover charge not by person, 1 carafe of water.

Zoes in Florence and Wonderful Tempura Chicken at Chinese Restaurant in Rome
Both restaurants are near recommended hotels. Zoes in Florence is beside the wonderful Hotel Silla and has the best fresh fruit salad and daily pasta luncheon pasta special I have had so far. The Chinese restaurant is adjacent to the Hotel Oceania and has some great sweet and sour shrimp and tempura chicken for those times you need a change from pasta!
N May <email>
Fairhope, AL USA Mon 05/23/2005

Varenna/Lake Como/incredible food
The Albergo Milano in Varenna on Lake Como was one of the highlights of our 3 weeks in Italy. As we were arriving late we made dinner reservations at their restaurant when the room was booked. The dinner was so fabulous that we decided immediately we would have dinner there every night of our 3 night stay. That was the best decision we made - each meal was delicious and the presentation so incredible it begged to be photographed first! Egidio/chef and owner and his wife Bettina were incredible hosts - and the setting of the lakeside rooms amazing. We didn't want to leave and our destination was Venice! Stay and eat there - you will not regret it. Note - this is a hotel listed in Rick Steve's Italy guide.
Gord and Connie <email>
Surrey, BC CA N Sun 05/22/2005

Amazing food in Castellina
If you plan to be in the hill towns of Italy, there is an amazing restaurant tucked away in Castellina. The name is al Papagallo....I'm not sure I spelled it exactly right, but that's pretty close. It's actually inside a tunnel that was built into the hillside to fortify/protect the city. When we went there (in 2003) there was a sign for al Papagallo at the entrance to the tunnel. We went during low season which meant that there were no other tourists, we literally shared the restaurant with the owners and their friends. At first, we thought the emptiness meant we had made a bad choice. But it was the best meal I've ever had, in terms of trying new things. We had a multi-course meal, including the palette-cleansing Pineapple Carpaccio.....thinly sliced pineapple sprinkled with the smallest amount of pepper. Sounds strange, but it was fantastic. We asked if it was a dish common to Italy, but it was just something the chef invented. The owners were SO gracious and wonderful. They gave us a complimentary bottle of an aperitivo, and then proceeded to talk us out of the more expensive bottle of Barolo that we had planned to buy because, in the owner's opinion, it hadn't aged enough. He "simply could not allow us to drink it". PLEASE try this restaurant in Castellina, in the Chianti region.
USA Fri 05/20/2005

Ristorante di Leva Sorrento
I'm not sure what I liked best about ristorante di leva in Sorrento, the table just a few feet from the waters of the Bay of Naples, the house wine at 8 euros, the friendly owners or the cuisine I've only dreamed about since I've been back in California. I think I have to return to Sorrento to find out!
Thomas Costa <email>
Chula Vista, CA USA Mon 05/16/2005

Le Fric Restaurant in Rome
When in Rome, you simply must find Le Fric restaurant! The owner, Federico, loves to travel through America and he is very, very hospitable. The food was fabulous and the service unforgettable---take his recommnedations for dinner. Le Fric is located at San Nicola da Tolentino, 23, telephone 06.48.14.845. With 2 courses, wine and dessert, the total came out to less than 40 Euros per person. Its located not far from Residenza Cellini, one of Rick's recommended high end hotels (it was fabuolous, too---a nice splurge for the end of a trip).
Sonya Ingle <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Sun 05/15/2005

Food
At Campo de Fiori in Rome I had dinner at Heart Break and LaCarbonara both were good.I was in Italy 11 days Rome, Florence and Venice the best food was at the Planet Restaurant near Hotel Riva in Venice.Janetdmartin08753@yahoo.com
Janet Martin <email>
Toms River, NJ USA Fri 05/13/2005

Pizzeria in Venice
My husband just got back from two weeks in Italy. The last three days were spent in Venice. Just a tip: the restaurant at the foot of the Accademia bridge on the museum side has pretty good pizza, but very rude waiters. We must have broken some unspoken rule while taking our seats and they proceeded to totally ignore us while serving others who arrived after we did. The same happened when we had eaten and wanted our bill. We are not demanding, impatient tourists and love the slower pace over there, but this was too much.
Cheryl <email>
seattle, wa USA Wed 05/11/2005

Gelato
There were some disappointments in this area in Rome and Florence, even in recommended places because for my taste the gelato was too sweet. The best I had was in San Gimignano, in the main square off the main drag. You'll know it because it has a huge sign in many languages that says "The Best Gelato in Italy" (or S.G.?). As touristy as it looks, it was true, delicious, home-madeand inexpensive.
Holly <email>
Lower Gwynedd, PA USA Sun 05/08/2005

Awesome Restaurant in East Rome
La Mela d'Oro is located on Via Di Santa Maria Maggiore, 157. It is near the Santa Maria Maggiore Church and one block from the Polish convent Rick recommends. The prices are reasonable and the food is great. The minestrone soup is fabulous!
Lisa <email>
Salt Lake City, UT USA Sat 05/07/2005

Rome Wine Bars
Rome has some delightful (and reasonably priced) wine bars that are infusing ecletic and contemporary tastes with traditional aura and history of Italy - a two noteworthy are Colors, Via del Boschetto (near the Colosseo), and Gusto in Piazza Augusto (ask for the restaurant portion - it is the second floor overlooking the Piazza). The house wines there are fabulous! (PS...Reservations are very necessary!) Ciao!
Leslie <email>
Upper Arlington, OH USA Fri 05/06/2005

There's more in Pisa than just the tower
I had the best Italian meal I've ever had in Pisa, of all places. I stumbled upon Ristorate Turrido about 20 minutes away from the tower (turn right on Via Santa Maria, the restaurant with all the tourist restaurants, then left on Via L'Arancio, and it's at the end of the street). My friend and I chose the restaurant because the menu was only in Italian and it served gnocchi with pesto, which I'd been searching for for a couple of days.

We had 2 appetizers: a plate of 10 different types of salami, and bruschetta, which was made with bright red, fresh tomatoes and tasted amazing. We both had the gnocchi with pesto, which was the best pesto I've ever tasted, and it was extraordinarily filling. On top of that, we had a half liter of the house wine, and our total bill was 25 euros. The desserts looked amazing too, but we were both too full to even try to share one. The only other customers in the restaurant were Italian, and the service was great.

If you want to get away from the tourist menus and high prices for mediocre quality, definitely try Ristorante Turrido.
Lindsey <email>
Northridge, CA USA Thu 05/05/2005

Florence: Restaurant
In Florence you can not beat Leonardos Cafeteria (second floor) two blocks from Santa Maria del Fiori (Via Pcori 5) Lunch or dinner for two with a bottle of wine 22-25 euros. In my comment for Rome the dinner price is for two persons.
Jorge Perez <email>
Miami, Fl USA Sat 04/23/2005

Roma: Restaurant Santi
This restaurant located two blocks from Termini Station (Via Daniele Manin 55/57) is very good and no spensive at all. Antipasto, Primo plato and segundo plato with one liter of vino bianco or rosso about 35-40 euros . Individual pizzas are 5-5.5 euros for two persons.
Jorge Perez <email>
Miami, Florida USA Sat 04/23/2005

Re: Sorrento--Aurora Restaurant
I thought the gnocchi and pizza we had were okay. The calzone was really good.
Sonia <email>
Austin, TX USA Thu 04/21/2005

Re: Sorrento: Osteria Gatto Nero
We also noticed that it had gone out of business. The restaurant that replaced it looked pretty trendy to me. It was also always empty, so we never went in.
Sonia <email>
Austin, TX USA Thu 04/21/2005

Sorrento: Osteria Gatto Nero
Osteria Gatto Nero recommended in Rick's book is no longer in business and has been replaced by a restaurant called Photo. We did not eat there but it looked modern and pleasant.
Conny <email>
Williamsburg, Va USA Tue 04/19/2005

Pesto
Pesto on anything. The region to best try is Genoa area, cinque terre.Nothing like I have had here in USA.It is a mild and gentle flavor. Yum
JS
CA USA Mon 04/18/2005

Gelato
My absolute favorite is Pistachio gelato. Try it it is wonderful.
JS
CA USA Sat 04/16/2005

Dino & Tony's - near the Vatican
This is THE ONLY place to go, especially after touring the Vatican and St. Peters, when your feet are tired and your mind is on overload. Dino and Tony are the nicest people! Just smile and be friendly and they will bring you the BEST food. When we went there it was full of locals on their lunch break - always a good sign. Don't waste your time and money going anywhere else. It's an unassuming restaurant, 2 or 3 blocks from the Vatican. Via Leone IV, 60
Toni <email>
Kirkland, WA USA Wed 04/13/2005

One more food recommendation in Rome
I'm adding to my food recommendations for Florence and Rome that I had posted a few weeks ago. I hadn't included this information because I didn't have the business card on me but I have it now!

If you do Rick Steves' Trastavere walk while you're in Rome, definitely go to this place that my friends and I stumbled upon after we'd crossed the Tibur River! It's called La Piadina Romagnola, located at Via dei Vascellari, 22. We were told, by a very friendly Italian man who spoke excellent English, that piadina is a northern Italian specialty.

It's similar to what we know as quesadillas, but instead of flour tortillas, they use some sort of a flat bread. You choose what ingredients you want in your piadina. First, you pick what type of spread (I chose the black olive spread), then what type of meat (prosciutto), cheese (don't remember what kind of cheese I picked), and then you can add any of their pickled vegetables (I chose artichokes) and they put it on the stove to heat everything up and that's it!

The prices were extremely reasonable for lunch--3.50 EUR for 3 items and 4.50 for 4 items.

I've posted pictures here:

http://lawweb.usc.edu/users/jane/fooditaly.html

Also, I added pictures of the food from our second visit to Buca Mario in Florence. (Don't have the pictures from the first visit yet.)Enjoy!
Jane <email>
Redondo Beach, CA USA Mon 04/11/2005

Best food in Tuscany?
Ristorante Badia a Coltibuono has unbelievably good food. It is located off of 408 near Gaiole in Chianti. We shared an amazing 5-course meal, each course served with a different wine. Expensive, but completely worthwhile.
Matthew Parsons <email>
MA USA Sun 04/10/2005

dining in Siena
Siena - just a few blocks from the Porta Romana, the restaurant Cane e Gato (at 6 Via Pagliaresi)was phenominal. There was a fixed 5-course menu for dinner, and it was quite expensive, but it was one of the best meals I had in all of Italy. The head chef was very friendly, and cooks everything with his wife, while their daughter serves.
Matthew Parsons <email>
MA USA Sun 04/10/2005

Buy sandwiches at Mercato Centrale in Florence. You can get any combo if meats/cheeses/spreads--on our last day we had a panini made of prosciutto, salami, mozarella, and pesto for about $4 euros and it was huge!

Il Latini lived up to the "hype," as far as I'm concerned. At our table, everyone else was Italian. The food was magnificent, the service outstanding--one of my favorite restaurant meals ever.
Nicole
Madison, WI USA Fri 04/08/2005

Too al dente?!?!?!?
Too al dente for your taste?!!! Pasta is either al dente, or it is not. It sounds like the real problem is that you, like so many of us in middle America, grew up eating mushy, overcooked pasta (think the macaroni and cheese of most of our childhoods), and that you learned to like it that way. You can?t fault the folks who are serving pasta as it was meant to be served for that!
USA Fri 04/08/2005

Food in Rome and Florence
Gelato, gelato, gelato, even in cold weather! This was the only food in Rome or Florence that didnt disappoint me. The pasta in most places was too al dente for my tasta! But the art and architecture were A+!
Mary H. Gill <email>
Memphis, TN USA Wed 04/06/2005

Via Reggio eats
If you are in Via Reggio, on coast west of Florence, I recommend Il Punto de Vino. As the name suggests they have a good wine list and the food is excellent-priced moderately-friendly-good service.
Jeff Martin <email>
Shell Beach, Ca USA Wed 04/06/2005

Great restaurant
Perilli in Prati was a real delight. Rick is right (again) the buffet was fabulous! Everything was fresh and well cooked. Prices have gone up from the stated E 5 for lunch to E 7.5, but well worth it. Yum! Seek it out.
charlene dodds <email>
destrehan, la USA Wed 04/06/2005

PS La Stalla is outside of Assisi.
Liz <email>
CO USA Sun 04/03/2005

La Stalla in Assisi
For an authentic Italian experience, off the beaten path, La Stalla is a countryside traittoria in a former livestock stables. Food is cooked on an open woodfire grill and guests are seated at large tables with other people. It was difficult to find, (I had seen it on a television program), but well worth it. The four of us sat with two Italian couples and so enjoyed their company. We may have been the only tourists there and the food was delicious. We had grappa and tirimisu and much laughter. Via Erme delle Carceri8. Head out Porta Cappuccini, then the turn off is about 1/2 mile along the right. Follow the sign for the Fontemaggio campground/hostel complex.
Liz <email>
CO USA Sun 04/03/2005

Stresa, Lake Maggiore
La Botte Restaurant in Stresa is fabulous and reasonable. RS lists it in his Italy book. We were there 2X last wk had a sampling of many items all was super.Lamb, pasta, soups,duck etcSkip dessert and go for gelato elsewhere.
JS
CA USA Sat 04/02/2005

Gelato in Rome
We went to Il Gelato di San Crispino, Via Paneterria 42 (really close to the Trevi Fountain) and I would have to definitely agree with Rick Steves--I'd never had gelato that was bursting with flavor like that! Among the 4 of us, we tried the pistachio, grapefruit (a must try!), wild orange (also a must try), and ginger & cinnamon, and it's all made there! To know whether or not the gelato was made there, make sure you look for signs in the store that say one of the following: Produzione Propria (homemade - our own production); Nostra Produzione (our production); or Produzione Artigianale (production by craftsmen)Liz, please let me know (e-mail is crazeetraveler@yahoo.com) what you thought of all these places when you come back!
Jane <email>
Redondo Beach, CA USA Fri 04/01/2005

Jane....
Your web page made me SOOOO hungry!!! Thanks so much for posting the pics and the info! I am going to Rome in October and I will definitely be eating at all your recommended restaurants. Any other tips? Gelaterias?
Liz <email>
Grand Forks, ND USA Thu 03/31/2005

Eating in Florence and Rome
I spent 8 days in Italy with 3 friends and had amazing food experiences in Florence and Rome! I realize that everyone's tastes are different (what I think is really good someone else may think is awful), but here are our recommendations! All of these places that we recommend (except for the pizza place) were recommended by other people on this Graffiti Wall!

In Florence:
Jane <email>
Redondo Beach, CA USA Wed 03/30/2005

Rome- Colosseum area
The Forum Pizza is located close to the Colosseum area and has good pizza and service. It is a large place and we found the service to be pretty good as well.
Ron <email>
Boston, MA USA Sun 03/27/2005

Sorrento--Aurora Restaurant
The Aurora Restaurant was highly recommended by our hotel and by some past reviews. The service was great but, unfortunately, the food was very mediocre. We had pizza and pasta. The house red wine was terrible and it was expensive.
Ron <email>
Boston, MA USA Sun 03/27/2005

Good Eats in Italy
Rome ? La Zucca Gialla just one block off Piazza Navona, on the via del Governo Vecchio 186. Super nice people and the pasta is some of the best we had in Italy.

Vernazza ? Blue Marlin is a great place for beers and the internet. They have an awesome sampler of bruschetta for a great start to the evening. Trattorial del Capitano which is on the main square in Vernazza was the best meals we had in 10 days in Italy. Get the antipasta seafood sampler and the pesto pasta and you won?t be disappointed. Our waiter was super fun!!

Florence ? Get away from the tourists and be careful of going only to guidebook recommendations because you will only hear English and that isn?t fun. Al Vecchio Carlino which is northwest of the train station near the Porta Al Prato. It is a great local place with awesome pizza, good house wine and great pasta.

Venice ? Taverna Da Baffo on the Campo S. Agostin away from the crowds is a great place to drink the evening?s wine sections or have a beer with the locals.Anitca Birraria on the Campo San Polo is a great find and the pumpkin ravioli is different and tasty. We liked our dinner there so much we went two nights in a row.
Eric Worden <email>
Spokane, WA USA Fri 03/25/2005

Where to eat in Rome, Florence, and Assisi, Part II
As a follow-up top my comments submitted on 3/21/05, I have the following additions and corrections??.

Previously I mentioned the dollar is doing poorly against the euro. Here?s an example. You charge your 74 euro restaurant bill to your credit card. When the bill comes in, the charge is US $100?..

Three of us ate lunch at ?Al Vantaggio?, Via della Vantaggio, 35 (P) 06-3236848. Not in Rick?s guide. Located off the Via della Corso, just south of Piazza del Popolo. Good food and service, nice atmosphere. We had pizza, baked fish, calzone, water and wine for 32,30 euros??..

Dinner at ?Caffe Leonado?, Piazza Mignaelli N. 21, right next to Ristorante alla Rompa. (Leonado is not a Rick Steve?s recommendation, but Rompa is). The food at Caffe Leonado was okay. The restaurant had a simple atmosphere, and the clientele were mainly tourists. The menu was a strange combination of basic Roman fair and Japanese food. We were later warned by a guide not to eat at places serving oriental food. Apparently they use something other than olive oil. Anyway, the four of us had pasta dishes, 2 beers, wine, & water for 41,40 euros??..

We had lunch on a Sunday at a bar across the street from ?Gusto?, which is located near the Spanish Steps at Piazza Augustino Imperatore 9. In my 3/21/05 comments, I incorrectly called this ?Bar La Costarella?. However, I could not find a receipt, and don?t recall the correct name. We wanted to go to Gusto (Rick recommended it), but it did not open until about 1-1:30 PM. We were still on US east-coast time and were hungry and did not want to wait, so we tried the bar. Definitely go here!!! ??.

Four of us ate dinner at ?Ristorante Al Gran Sasso?, Via di Ripetta 33, 00186 (Not a Rick Steves recommendation). Located south of Piazza del Popolo. Very good food. The restaurant was quite small, crowded with locals, but the service was good, and , and the atmosphere was artsy. The walls of the restaurant were decorated with beautiful family portraits and local scenery, drawn and painted by a talented local artist. We had a few antipasto courses (i.e. fried zucchini flowers were great), (2) first course pasta dishes, (2) second courses (i.e. meat), wine, and dessert for 74 euros??.

One of the recent comments I read on this web site was from a couple whom had a bad experience eating around the Vatican. So did we. After standing on our feet for four hours (waiting in line, then touring the Vatican Museum), the four of us sat down for lunch at ?Bar Sella?, Via Leone (definitely not a Rick Steves recommendation), located a block or two away from the Vatican Museum entrance. Our bill probably would have been cheaper if we didn?t sit down, but we were tired, and my diabetic wife was having a low sugar. Anyway, we had (4) sandwiches, a couple of sodas, and water for 31,80 euros. A rip-off ? don?t go here !!! ??

In my 3/21/05 comments, I forgot to mention where we ate while visiting Assisi. The four of us sat down for lunch at ?Ristorante Taverna dei Consoli? (a Rick Steves recommendation), on Via della Fortezza, located just off the Piazza del Comune (near the Temple of Minerva). The interior is beautiful, with arched brick ceilings, the services is good , and the food was excellent. We had pasta dishes and wine for 39,50 euros. The day we visited Assisi, it was very cold and windy, so we ate inside. If the weather is good, they have a beautiful terrace for eating outside
Joe Hassell <email>
Mullica Hill, NJ USA Fri 03/25/2005

LA ZUCCA GIALLA (The Yellow Pumpkin) Must Go While In Rome!
My wife and I just returned from Rome last week. The Rome book was very handy and I have a recommendation for a restaurant that I first discovered on the "Mouth Watering Italy" section of Rick's website. This restaurant would fit ideally into the category of restaurants near Piazza Navonna. The name of the restaurant is LA ZUCCA GIALLA (The Yellow Pumpkin) it sits just a little bit up the way from the two recommended restaurants already in the Rome 2005 book.

I never feel strongly about writing stuff like this but my wife and I visited this place twice while we were in Rome. It was incredible and worth making it a desination during your visit.

My wife and I on our second visit got to talking to Carmen, her husband co-owns the restaurant. They have been open for a year and both nights that we were there many more locals than tourist where eating. The place was extremely clean and the cuisine specializing in Roman and South Italy. We had the best food of the week when we went there. In fact the second time we went we ran into another couple from the first night we had gone there. Carmen expressed to us that they want a good mixture of local and tourist. The wine, pasta, and desserts were all incredible. They used unusual ingredients and it was sooo good. The prices were more fair than many of the other restaurants listed in Rick's book. The setting was yellow walls, with brick archways, moderate size, friendly, bright, and you really felt like you were in Rome.
Jeff Veal <email>
Austin, TX USA Thu 03/24/2005

How MUCH does it cost?
PLEASE, when you write in about a great place indicate how much it costs. There is nothing worse than hearing about a great place to eat in Rome, commit it to memory, hunt it down when vacationing, and then once you get there you realise you've walked all that way and the prices are way out of your travel budget!

With that said, I'Paci at 37 Via dei Neri in Florence is TERRIFFIC. We had wine with a FANTASIC cheese and meat plate, with honey and olives and bread for 24€ total. My husband and I were STUFFED. Everything was of the highest quality, and it was definitly the best meal of our trip (that didn't break the budget).

Oh, and all the Gellato places Rick recommends are great. Seek them out. The rice flavour is as good as he says!
Kate McKenzie <email>
Stuttgart, Germany Thu 03/24/2005

Where to eat in Rome, Florence, and Assisi
Our family (my wife and I, plus two college-age children) just returned from our first trip to Italy. We had a great time. We visited Rome, Florence, and several hill towns in between. For anyone trying to travel on a budget, keep in mind the dollar currently doing poorly against the euro. This means that everything is expensive, even though in our case it was off-season. Not knowing anything, but with a copy of Rick's guidebook and map handy, we set out to find places to eat. Here?s a list of memorable places. Unless noted otherwise, these places can be found in Rick?s guide.ROME: ?Bar La Costarella? - Not in Rick?s guide (across the street from ?Gusto?, which is). Small sandwich bar run by two very nice men, who did not speak a word of English. The pananni?s were good ? the four of us ate for 8,80 euros ? they did not even charge us to sit ? extremely rare. Definitely go here. ?Ristorante Il Gabriello? for dinner. Nearly everyone in the restaurant had a Rick Steve's guidebook. Food was very good. I thought 67.50 euros was little high for what we got (first course pasta dishes only, wine, and dessert). The service was good, and the atmosphere was contemporary, maybe even a little kinky.

?Bar Ristorante Pizzeria Mannozzi? Near the Trevi Fountain. Couldn?t find the pizzeria Rick recommended in the area, so we went here. Good pizza, lots of locals, simple atmosphere, good service. The four of us had pizza, wine, a few beers, dessert, and caffe for 56 euros.FLORENCE: We had the most luck finding Rick's recommendations in Florence. We went to ?I Fratallini,? the hole in the wall wine bar right in the center of Florence. Go here for lunch. The prices were good, their service was fast, the food was better than most (i.e. more than one thin slice of meat), and it was amazing to see the two brothers work in the small confines of the their little shop.

In ?Mercato Centrale?, there?s a sandwich bar on the second floor (don?t recall the name) that serves good, fast food at a reasonable price. There?s not much atmosphere, but the four of us sat and ate our cheapest meal during our visit (4 sandwiches and big bottle of water for about 6 euros). Also, buy pecharino cheese on the lower level. Very nice man runs the cheese stand near one of the entrances.The best dinner values were found in the Oltrano (across the Arno from Florence's historic district).

Two very good places to eat dinner were "Trattoria Sabatino" and "Trattoria La Casalinga". Both served basic, Tuscan food, the clientele was local, both restaurants were clean and simple, family-run, and very friendly to us. At both places we all had a first pasta course, two of us had a second course (meat dish), wine for all, dessert for all, a caffe or two, and the bills ranged between 50 and 60 euros. Trust me - that's a bargain.CHIANTI: In Castellina in Chianti (between Siena and Florence), we ate lunch at "Antica Trattoria La Torre". Not on Rick?s list of restaurants. Beautiful place, good food, however, kind of expensive (pasta dishes only, wine, dessert for about 75 euros).
Joe Hassell <email>
Mullica Hill, NJ USA Mon 03/21/2005

Eating in Italy
Bar Degustazione da I'Paci at 37 Via dei Neri in Florence is a terrific wine bar offering free appetizers, a great bottle of house wine and a menu to order a meal. The owner/bartender was very friendly and the atmosphere was great.We also enjoyed a meal we had at Trattoria Gabriello at 54 Via Condotta in Florence.
Deanna
Chicago, IL USA Wed 03/16/2005

Ristorante Scanderbeg
Wonderful restaurant, fettucine tartufo e cinghiale, special Quirinale steak.....Antonio is gread!!!We had a fantastic time there.
Jack
NY, NY USA Tue 03/15/2005

Rome Eats
In Rome, THE place to eat, and we tried many places in our week there, is Dino & Tony's. It is by the Vatican at Leone IV, 60. There's no menu. Dino and Tony (or Armando the waiter) will bring you the selection of the day. Everything we ate was absolutely scrumptious. I've never been so full in my life! Our total bill was only about 75 Euro for the both of us.Even my good friend who joined up with us in Rome (grew up in Rome)said it was the best she'd had in a while. Don't miss it, or you'll be missing the best food around the city.
Kat <email>
Des Moines, WA USA Mon 03/14/2005

A Venezia Must-Visit!
My husband and I just returned from 3 weeks in Europe, and we're still missing the food from Venice. We cannot say enough good things about TRATTORIA AL SEMPIONE at Ponte Baretteri (3 minutes from Piazza San Marco). (Tel. 041/52.26.022)Our waiter fluently glided from French to English to German as he dazzled every patron from one course to the next. (He even helped me with my "poco italiano!") Tip: you won't find better Tiramisu--it's homemade-- and try a flute of "SGROPPINO" (chilled dessert drink) for a truly Italian "buona sera!"
Amy Coyle Wohlken <email>
Nashville, TN USA Mon 03/14/2005

Food In Rome
Tried 3 great places in Rome to eat. 1) Angelos on Via Gioberti. Menu varied and reasonably priced, waiters make dining experience memorable, especially Daniel. 2)Pizzeria Da Baffeto on Governo Vecchio, arguably the best pizza in Rome. 3)L'Eau Vive (french restaurant run by nuns)on Via Monterone. The best escargot this side of Paris.Rome is great! Enjoy!
KS Rosado <email>
Raleigh, NC USA Sun 03/13/2005

All Brothers Wine Bar
Try All Brothers for a nightcap or dessert. This was our nightly stop. We met the owners Donato and Nello and they where soooo good to us. My Gelato was served with an Italian and American flag and a smiley face made of coffee beans. These guys really took good care of our group. It was such a pleasure to meet them and they left a wonderful impression on our group. They really made our trip enjoyable. They are located across the street from the Vatican,,,you go under the tunnel. I can't say enough about their hospitatlity and great service. Pricey but worth it. They also do a good banana split! All BrothersVia delle Fornaci 8
SB
Rancho Cordova, CA USA Thu 03/10/2005

Florence Eats
Great dinner with wonderful atmosphere at Trattoria ZaZa in Florence. Also, delicious gelato at Corona's Cafe also in Florence. Corona's also has wonderful hot chocolate and cappucino.
Jill <email>
Chicago, IL USA Thu 03/10/2005

Winery Tours in Tuscany
Meghan,In what area of Tuscany will you be staying?Let me know and I'll post some good recomendations for you.
Ken <email>
Naples, FL USA Mon 03/07/2005

Giolitti. nuff said
Giolitti in Rome----do it as often as possible!!!!!!!!!!!!!Best treat of a lifetime
G.I. Lovegelatto
Beverly Hills, CA USA Sun 03/06/2005

Smoke Free in Roma
We returned from Roma about a week ago and were thrilled to learn that all indoor public places (museums, stores, and restaurants) are now smoke free. What a pleasant surprise.
Mark Hardy <email>
Henderson, KY USA Tue 03/01/2005

Winery Tours in Tuscany
My husband and I will be in Tuscany in August. Does anyone have a recommendation for a winery with a good tour and wine tastings?
Meghan <email>
Denver, CO USA Mon 02/28/2005

Dog Kicking Resturant owner in Florence
Here is a link to the story, do not patronize this guy!http://slowtalk.com/eve/ubb.x/a/tpc/f/889608785/m/85410955221
Tom Winkle
DeKalb, IL USA Sat 02/26/2005

Venezia Resturants and Gondolas
Oliver,Find a copy of "Chow Venice", and take it with you! The two ladies who wrote it have done a superb job, we'll never go back without it! There are a lot of bad resturants in Venice, this will help you stay uot of the minefield. As for a gondola ride, pick the area that you would like to ride in, and barter with the gondolier; they will negotiate. Prices will most likely be higher in the high traffic tourist areas like San Marco, and lower as you get into the less touristy areas. Hope this helps.Tom
Tom <email>
DeKalb, IL USA Sat 02/26/2005

Venice recommendations?
Hi everyone!We're leaving for Venice a week from Friday and would love any suggestions or recommendations for great places to eat. Can anyone suggest any out of the way local spots with great food and reasonable prices?Also, any tips based on your experiences with hiring a gondolier for an evening cruise?
Oliver <email>
SF, CA USA Wed 02/16/2005

Cafe in Florence
Hello Elke....your e-mail connection didn't work, so I thought I'd post this review, from Travelocity...."At the refined, wood-paneled, stucco-ceilinged, and very expensive 1733 cafe Gilli, Piazza della Repubblica 36-39r/Via Roma 1r (tel. 055-213-896), tourists gather to sit with the ghosts of Italy's Risorgimento, when the cafe became an important meeting place of the heroes and thinkers of the unification movement from the 1850 to the 1870s. The red-jacketed waiters at Giubbe Rosse, Piazza della Repubblica 13-14r (tel. 055-212-280), must have been popular during the 19th-century glory days of Garibaldi's red-shirt soldiers. This was once a meeting place of the Florentine futurists, but aside from organized literary encounters on Wednesdays, today, it too is mainly a tourists' cafe with ridiculous prices." For what it's worth.....
Norm <email>
Ottawa, Canada Tue 02/15/2005

La Grotta in Venice
DO NOT EAT AT LA GROTTA IN VENICE, ITALY. My wife and I ate there last night and were majorly ripped-off. We were charged 72 Euro for a meal that would be 35-40 anywhere else in Venice. There was also one waiter for the entire restaurant!!! People were leaving left and right. Please save yourself the agony.
Reid <email>
Birmingham, AL USA Tue 02/15/2005

Cafe in Florence
Has somebody on this board been as impressed as I was by Cafe GILLI in Florence? I have never seen it described anywhere. I am looking for an address, and even better an e-mail address.
Elke Valentin
Fort Saskatchewan, AB CANADA Mon 02/14/2005

In Firenza, don't miss I' Paci
I'Paci - this is a small 6 table restaurants with all locals (we were the only Americans) located in Via de Neri 37/r (a couple of blocks East from Palazzo Vechio.. The owner is Maurizio while his wife Rosella makes all the daily dishes. Manu changes daily. We had a fantastic time there.
Henry <email>
Atlanta, GA USA Sun 01/30/2005

Sopressata di Polpo
Sopressata di polpo (octopus) con insalata is a visually stunning and wonderfully delicious Italian dish. It looks like beautiful, paper thin white rings of purple edged lace over salad. We first found this dish in Bellagio and since have eaten it at Pierluigi in Rome (great little neighborhood seafood place) and at Hotel Porto Roca in Monterosso al Mare. We are hoping that others may have found it in Milan or Venice where we are traveling in March. The Roberts
Catherine Roberts <email>
Pearland, TX USA Sun 01/09/2005

Fine dining in Orvieto
During a late September overnight in Orvieto, we walked into the Osteria San Patrizio restaurant and enjoyed a wonderful gourmet meal, beautifully served with knowledgable wine service. The restaurant is housed in one of the ancient stone buildings not far from the funicular stop at the top of the hill. The address is Corso Cavour, 312 05018 Orvieto (TR). E-mail osteriasanpatrizio@beactive.it
Walter Vestal <email>
Arlington Heights, IL USA Sat 01/08/2005

eating in Rome
We must say that "i diavoletti" (the little devils) restaurant, via Urbana, Rome (near metro Cavour) is one of the best eateries we saw in Italy.Went there twice; great sea food, very reasonable price, friendliest waitresses, charming chef. They provide complimentary drinks.

All for some euro15 lunch, and euro22 supper. You are unlikely to find many better restaurants in Italy for the price. I have finished working in Italy for 2 months and the eating experience in I Diavoletti is wonderful among all the restaurants I saw!
Yen & Adela <e