More Feedback on Rick Steves' Paris 2004
If you've traveled with this guidebook, please help us improve it for future travelers. How can it be more helpful and accurate? Did any recommended hotels, eateries, or sights disappoint you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
Restaurant in the Marais
The restaurant we were searching for in The Marais was closed-I don't read enough French to know if it was for vacation or forever. We dined at L'Ecluse, around the corner, just off of Place Bastille, and were so grateful the other was unavailable. Regional French food, wines that don't break the bank, and charming, relaxed service. My daughter is torn about which she misses most-the coquille St. Jacques or the beautiful busboy.
Susan
USA Thu 12/30/2004
Paris touring
Ricks' Paris Guide was a huge help and mostly accurate. The Versailles train tour ticket is reduced to 17 Euros since the garden is closed in winter. Metro travel can be exhausting if you have joint or hip problems - so use taxis. Many museums have elevators but many stairs to access. Most churches are similar. Avoid Hotel Gare du Nord - interior noise, no replacement glasses - no luggage stands. Still the best city in the world - go!
Larry Mitchell <email>
San Mateo, CA USA Sat 12/18/2004
Hotel Riviera
Just came back from Paris, I highly recommend the Riviera Hotel at 55 rue des Acacias – Tel: 01-43-80-45-31 Email: hotel.riviera@wanadoo.fr. The owner was friendly and thoughtful. She answered all of our questions in English. The staff was very nice. We felt very comfortable. The Hotel is centrally located, just one block from the Metro and a block and half from the Champs Élysées, and Arc de Triomphe. It is very clean, safe and well-run.
It's in a district which literally has everything the traveler might need, a bakery "pâtisserie"is right next door, as is a restaurant, and there are shops and bookstores everywhere. On future visits to Paris, I definitely wil stay here, even though the Riviera Hotel does a thriving business. Rick Steves please add this Hotel to the listings in your books.
PALLDIS
San Jose, CA USA Wed 12/08/2004
Paris Review
We just returned from 5 days in Paris and had a wonderful time. Much of the credit goes to the Rick Steves Paris Guidebook.
We stayed at the Hotel Prince, a Rue Cler recommendation in the book. The hotel was wonderful. The guidebook lists the Hotel Prince as one of the lesser values in the area. "Good enough rooms, many overlooking a busy street". I don't believe that gives the Hotel Prince the credit it deserves. The room was immaculate, the staff was great and the hotel has air conditioning, so even in summer the rooms must be quiet with the windows closed. I thought it was a great value and a great location just around the corner from the metro.
A couple of points for anyone traveling to Paris soon. I have the 2004 Paris book, so maybe rates have been updated for 2005, but the Vedettes du Pont-Neuf Seine boat trip is listed at 9 euro. The price is now 10, but the good news is we found 2 euro per person coupons available at a street vendor directly across the street from the Samaritaine Department Store, so our actual cost was 8 euros.
Also the book lists St. Chappelle as open until 6:00. Imagine our surprise when we arrived at 4:45 to find it had closed at 4:30 (winter hours?)on the day our museum pass expired.
We were pleasantly surprised by prices in a grocery store right outside the Ecole Militaire metro stop in the Rue Cler area. 1.5 liter water bottles were .23 or .34 euros. Coke was cheap as were the croisants and other pastries sold outside on the street.
Cafe du Marche was a very good value meal on Rue Cler. Lots of food for 10 euros.
Also, if you are traveling soon and want to indulge in wine without breaking your bank book, try the Beaujolais nouveau. For those that don't know this is a young red wine, just recently bottled. It is light and fruity and you can get a glass for about 3 euros and a pitcher for 6 or 8.
The weather was damp and cold, but did not slow us down. We took advantage of the much maligned Paris Visite pass. For 26.65 euros I took (yes, I counted) 26 metro trips. That included 2 mistakes when I walked out the sortie when I intended to transfer to another line. It was very convenient to have the pass rather than worrying abut individual tickets with a carnet. Give the Paris Visite another look if you are going at a time when the Carte Orange won't help. All the people we encountered were delightful and we speak no French.
przyk <email>
Milwaukee, WI USA Wed 12/01/2004
Rome
Visited Rome in November, 2004. Advise everyone to stay in a central location. The hotel in our package was not and we had to walk to reach the metro. Wear comfortable shoes. Take heed of the pickpocket warnings. My husband's wallet was taken from his front jeans pocket. Rick lists the number to report lost credit cards, which saved the day.
Rick's Rome guide was wonderful. Heed the warnings about closings. The Collisseum and Forum closed early one day. The Vatican Museum closes early in winter. Take Rick's suggestions about seeing the city by neighborhoods. We used the metro and buses, a 24 hour ticket was 4 Euros, worth it since we were not centrally located. Try to see the crowded sights around the tour buses. Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps by night were wonderful, compared to the crowds by day. St. Peter's at twilight was breathtaking. Mass said at five o'clock. Found the self-service restaurants easy to use.
Jane O'Brien <email>
Cherry Hill, NJ USA Sun 11/28/2004
Paris
I spent 4 days in Paris and it was wonderful. The Paris guidebook saved me time and money. I traveled alone to Europe, and it was my first time there, so a lot could have gone wrong. But thanks to Rick Steve's guidebook, I had an exciting trip and have nothing but wonderful memories of it. I plan to recommend the guidebooks and this website to anyone planning a trip to Europe! Thanks!
Michelle <email>
San diego, CA USA Tue 11/23/2004
Hotel Giardino
I had to recommend the Hotel Giardino by Victor Emmanuel Monument. Kate and her staff were quite helpful and even borrowed me an umbrella several times when I needed it. The room was always clean and she helped me set up airport pickup for 35E even though it was extremely early for my flight. ATM was close by, as I paid cash for the room.
Also, I can recommend the Baths of Diocletian as a good spot to buy your combo ticket for the Colisseum. There were only three people there and getting the correct ticket was a snap. When I did finally go to the Colisseum, the lines at all entrances were very long. I peeked at the front of the line and discovered no line for those that had the combo ticket-Thanks Rick. Saved an awful lot of time there. Had a great trip thanks to Rick's books and I plan on going back as soon as I can.
David Matthews <email>
Cambridge, MN USA Tue 11/23/2004
just got back
bought and read the guide before the trip and found it very helpful. didn't take it along (not a first visit) but saw other travelers with it in their backpockets so i felt a kinship.
bought the 3 day museum pass and found it a great deal as we were able to go directly to exhibits and gain entrance after getting through the security checkpoints. well worth the money spent.
the metro and RER were excellent means of getting around and easy to figure out. in particular taking the RER from the airport was both inexpensive and the easiest way to get into town.
locals were receptive and not unfriendly if you at least attempt the minimum as suggested by rick (greetings, thank you, please, excuse me, do you speak english).we went 2 days post US election and no one asked or commented at all about elections. we were not made to feel unwelcomed.and we got good weather (no rain) so we were able to get so much done.
stayed at the timhotel in the latin quarter on rue monge. the room and bathroom were small but clean and functional. the staff spoke english and the location is close to the metro as well as right next to the jardin des plantes. the only negative was the street noise at night/early morning resonates loudly so light sleepers beware.
e. wahine <email>
sf, ca USA Fri 11/19/2004
paris guidebook
The Paris guidebook was wonderful.Our time in Rue Cler neighborhood was great and our stay at HotelMuquet was wonderful.Dinner at La Varange with Phillipe the chef/owner was just as rick described, and great food besides.
mike gregerson
USA Wed 11/17/2004
Chez Agnes-rue Cler
Agnes has the scar from a bullet hole to her neck just below the right jaw. She was wounded in Indo China when the French were fighting there. She was a nurse attending the Legionaires when they suffered their brutal defeat in l954. She's a late 60 or early 70 something now, I'd guess. She's a bit overweight, has no sense of fashion and has a few rough edges. But like the pork with cloves she serves, she is tender; like the calvados she offers at meal's end, she finishes well; like the apple pie she serves for desert, there is an appealing tart/sweet nature to her.
When you leave, you might say to your dinner companion, "Isn't Paris wonderful?" It's not Paris. It's Agnes. She not only feeds a customer at her Chez Agnes, a Rick Steves recommendation in the Rue Cler area, she nourishes them. Bring a few words of French with you. She knows little English. And bring your manners. She knows them in all languages.
The first night I met her, two days before the American presidential election, my wife and I were barely in the door. There was one other custumer, a retired professor of physics from Brown University and a Kerry supporter. "Bon soir," I said, for it was after 6 p.m. "You vote booush?" she said in a version of English. I told her that I vote for the one with the most beautiful wife, because, in my heart, I am French. "Asseyez-vous" she said. So we sat.
The second night, she did not ask politics. She greeted my wife, and gave me a soft rap to my head with the heel of her hand. She repeated this a few more times during the evening to my wife's delight. (Perhaps this means we are spiritually going steady.)
We had to leave the next day. But Agnes is still at her restaurant at 1 rue Augereau. Agnes, we love you, (but you over-cook the veggies.)
Harvey <email>
Chicago, IL USA Tue 11/16/2004
L'Alma Hotel
We spent the last five days of our five week French sojurn in Paris. The Hotel L'Alma was our first "Three Star Hotel". We were quite disappointed by the less than one star beds they had!!We heard this common compliant from nearly everyone in the breakfast room each morning. They did honour the 74 euro price with Rick's book even though they said there was a misprint during publishing and 100 books went out with this price and not the correct 90 euro price! Interesting that all the people we talked to had gotten one of those 100 books..what are the odds?
Len & Shauna Kirkham <email>
Surrey, BC Canada Mon 11/15/2004
Museum Pass & Versailles
Rick's guide was a great help particularly for the museum tours. In Versailles, I literally read out loud to my husband regarding each room we entered. I even received a compliment from another traveler, who overheard me.
The 3 day museum pass was 36 Euro, not 30 and even though we didnt get our dollar value, hitting Versailles on a free first Sunday of the month, the time value was immeasurable. We zipped pass the hour wait in line, without a bit of guilt.
Nancy Hendrickson <email>
washington crossing , pa USA Sun 11/14/2004
Wedding in Paris!!
My wife and I had got married in Paris a few weeks ago and I can't stop thinking what a great experience it was. We spent 5 days in Paris and then traveled to Amboise and Bruge and then spenty one last night in Paris.
We stayed at the Hotel Eber Mars in the rue Cler area along with about 14 people that came with us (for the weedding only), including 3 children ages 5-10. The staff was very accomodaitng to the children, often taking time to help them learn French, and treated people as if it were a 4 star hotel. The rooms were nice sized with multiple beds for the families. I personally can not thank them enough for their service and for making our Paris experience great.
We were also fortunate to eat in a restuarant called La Rose Bleue 15 rue Choron. This is actually where we had our small reception. The food was incredible from the kir to the desert and the owners Tony and Annette are two of the nicest people you can meet. Tony was very good with the three children, spending time going over the menu with them and even having special appetizers cooked for them.
We went many places while we were over in Europe, however, these two places will always be special to us.
Ted Hamm <email>
Sheboygan, WI USA Sat 11/13/2004
Transportation in City
In October '04 my friend and I spent 4 days in Paris and decided to buy the 3-day Paris Visite Pass in spite of the "over-priced" label Rick puts on it. Because we know the bus and metro system well we used it extensively and feel we saved over using the carnets. It had a two for one discount to the Jacquemart-Andre museum, one of Rick's recommendations, (savings of 9.50 euros) so that helped.
We met a British gentleman who was talked into buying a weekly Carte Orange (5-zone) at the airport on a Wednesday, not realizing it was only good through the following Sunday. Beware! A Carte Orange is only a bargain if its Monday - Sunday validity fits into your stay.
Nancy
Kent, WA USA Thu 11/11/2004
Crepes on rue Cler
My wife and I had a wonderful week on rue Cler (at Hotel Leveque), despite the closure of half the shops for August holidays. Our favorite discovery was the Crepes Lady (sorry, didn't get her name), whose cart has now (since April) moved to the Boucherie Chevaline that used to house Julie's Tartes. It's now Ulysse en Gaule, a tiny Greek restaurant. If the Greek food is as great as the crepes, this is a find! But we didn't get past the sidewalk tables and the fantastic crepes. We had other good crepes in Paris and Chartres, but they didn't come close to the Crepes Lady's!
Jack & Lydia Foley <email>
Rockville, MD USA Sun 11/07/2004
Paris metro
Just returned from Paris. Wonderful trip and Rick's book was very helpfull.Please note that Rick's guidebook and this website states that a book of 10 metro tickets (carnet) is priced at 10 euros. It is now 10.50, which caused an interesting scramble for us at the metro station.
Beth <email>
AZ USA Sun 11/07/2004
Paris
Stayed at the Hotel Castex in the Marais for three days last week. Very clean and the staff pleasant. I can see that some may be put off by the tiny rooms but I found it a very nice play to stay. I did skip the 10 Euro breakfast in favor of coffee and croissant at Miss Manon - a patisserie about four blocks west on Rue de Rivoli. They also had nice options for lunch or snacks.
On Ile St Louis I gave Berthillon a pass in favor of Gelateria Amorino which is nearby. I found that very good but I probably need to go back to do further tests on the gelato.
Long lines at the museums and the Eiffel Tower - I had not opted for passes or reservations but they are probably worth considering.I did opt to save Euro's and time and walked up - but only to the first level - 375 steps or so.
A Seine cruise is a must. I opted for the small Bateau Parisien boat near Notre Dame in preference to those mega sized Bateau Mouches.
This was my second short trip to France this year and both times I found most of my interactions to be pleasant. On occasion I was treated in a business like manner but never rudely. And this despite my very, very poor French. All in all a positive experience.
Tony Galiani <email>
Carrboro, NC USA Fri 11/05/2004
Paris Catacombs
The Catacombs in Paris are closed from Nov 1 to May 1. The Paris book doesn't mention this. We found out the hardway on Nov 3.
Kristin <email>
Buffalo, NY USA Fri 11/05/2004
Budget Hotel in Paris
Following an earlier tip here, I stayed at EDEN HOTEL in the 15th, Metro Vaugirard, 110 Rue Blomet. It is very basic, clean and comfortable, with everything you need nearby in the neighborhood. I paid 38EU for a Sb. I believe a double would cost the same. The room was large. Mostly French people were staying there.
Swan
USA Tue 11/02/2004
WWII Museum at Hotel des Invalides, Paris
Please note that the entrance to the WWII Museum at Hotel des Invalides in Paris is on the left, not right, as you enter the museum area. Rick has the stairs on the right...
Larry and Elizabeth Schmitt <email>
San Diego, CA USA Mon 11/01/2004
M Santiago's Post Re: Hotel du Champ de Mars
Re: M Santiago's Post below about Hotel du Champ de Mars not allowing coffee bought elsewhere up to her room.....I've lived in Paris twice for many years and my family and I now go every other year for the summer staying in wonderful hotels and we have never had this happen to us. Every hotel we have ever stayed in has allowed us groceries, coffee, soft drinks and anything else we wanted in our room. It sounds like the owner of Hotel du Champ de Mars is just plain nasty. We stopped in there last summer with the thought that we may like to stay there in the future and the husband and wife owners were very rude to us. We were extremely polite and I speak fluent French so there was no excuse. Needlesss to say, we would never, ever stay there.
Susan
Sausalito, CA USA Mon 11/01/2004
Paris and the guidebook
8 days in Paris October 2004Loved your Paris guidebook and used it extensively. Had a wonderful time. We stayed at the Hotel du Champs de Mar. It was lovely and we could see the Eiffel Tower. Unfortunately I caused an "ulgy American" incident by bringing coffee up to my husband that I had bought on the street. The owner told me to either go out for coffee or go down to their resturant. Opps.
Comment on guidebook. When we went to Monet's Garden we also stopped at the American Museum to see Mary Cassats paintings. I was very disappointed. There was ONLY one. The guidebook is plural.
Also we found a wonderful bistro around the corner from our hotel that is not mentioned in the guidebook. They had wonderful coffee and the owner Oliver was very helpful in telling us what bus we needed to catch to the train station on our way to Giverny. His place is Bistro Du Monde 85, Avenue Bosquet. Please check him out.
M Santiago <email>
Port Angeles, WA USA Sun 10/31/2004
Paris to CDG
I always use the RER to CDG from Paris hotels. It took 90 minutes from my hotel at Metro Vaugirard to the check-in area at United Airlines at CDG. There is a list of airlines and their terminal numbers on the wall in the RER train. The RER with Metro connection was about 8EU. I travel with only a carry-on size bag. If you have more luggage this may not work since you have to navigate through one or more metro stations to use the RER. I like this way to get to the airport because it is a more reliable, cheaper and quicker route to CDG.
Swan
USA Sun 10/31/2004
Free Eau in Paris
Maybe this should be in the guidebooks: a list of places to refill(free) your water bottle during long days of sightseeing, to avoid 3 Euro bottles of Evian(though, is there anything better on a long hot day?). In Paris, I can recommend labeled potable eau at a tap next to Notre Dame's plaza, a rest room on the ground floor in Musee D'Orsay, and the rooftop cafeteria at Printemps. The fashion show at Printemps is free and no-pressure(it's all tourists after all) and the view is fabulous. You can sit as long as you want on benches in the sun and watch the light change over the city. There are glasses and pitchers to fill from a station in the cafeteria and no one cares how much time or money you spend.
Susan
WI USA Sun 10/31/2004
Paris tips
A few thoughts from our recent trip.The Airport Connection van from CDG to the hotel took over 3 hours as the driver kept going terminal to terminal looking for people who never showed. On the way back, we took a yellow van service called by the hotel with better results, although it still took time to load at 4 stops. I would fudge and hour or so when you tell them your flight time.
Thoumieux is a nice looking place and a good experience, but the food was just average and the portions small. I did like the resident cat although he doesn't have any boundries (like on the table.)
Cafe le Bosquet has surprisingly good food and value.
Parc de la Villette should not be missed.
Creperie de Josselin on rue de Montparnesse is good, cheap, fast, and always full of locals.The guidebook was very helpful and useful.
Dick Nixon <email>
Amherst, NH USA Wed 10/27/2004
Hop-on, Hop-Off Buses
Re: Karen's post below....There are only two "Hop On, Hop Off" bus companies in Paris, the red one and the lime green one. We did both and liked the red bus much, much better. The headphone commentaries on both buses are equally terrible. If the weather is not good enough to sit up top out in the open air then there is no point in doing the bus tour at all. Sitting down below, inside is miserable and pointless whichever bus co. you choose.
Susan
USA Wed 10/27/2004
Paris
Paris was the first leg of our trip. Your book was excellent for places to stay, food, and what is cool in art. We stayed in the latin district and had a great time in the open markets, bakeries and exploring great food. After hearing negative remarks about the french people. I would have to say that we were treated really well.
After pondering the people we meet also in Italy is that these people really embrace life with family and food and generally enjoy life. Being from Maui where people are more laid back, I felt at home, wanting to embrace the european life style. My conclusion is that gov't seperate people with there politics. That people just want to live and enjoy life. So by all means go to Europe, downtown L.A. is a lot scarier. I am planning our return trip in two years. Thanks Rick
Steve Nickens <email>
Haiku, Maui, Hi, Hi USA Wed 10/27/2004
My husband and I have just returned from three weeks in France--one week in Paris and two weeks driving. A great trip. Everywhere we went we found the French people to be most helpful and kind.
We used Rick Steves a lot for hotel and restaurant suggestions. The only downside, we felt, of this was that many of his suggested restaurants in Paris were mostly full of his followers--not too many local French. We ate very well with only one exception. We had dinner one night at Chez Agnes (a very tiny restaurant in the rue Cler area). Although it was a fun evening, the dinner itself was, at best, only average.
Dinner at the other RS suggested restaurants we ate at were considerably better and, in most cases, less expensive. Love Paris--hated to leave.
Margaret Voice <email>
Edmonton, Alberta Canada Sat 10/23/2004
Paris 2004
I stayed in Les Marais neighborhood and loved it. As a single woman traveling alone I felt safe there at night, and it was perfectly located. There is a Batobus location very close by at Hotel de Ville. My hotel was Hotel Beaubourg and I had no complaints at all.
Two things I didn't know: at the outdoor cafes, you can just sit at any available table and a waiter will eventually find you; in late September/early October they have an international auto show that sucks up every available hotel room. The night before I left I stayed at Novotel at the airport because I had a crack of dawn flight out. This was the best move I made -- allowed me to sleep an extra hour and highly convenient with very helpful staff.
Rick's book and maps allowed me to conquer my fear of the big city and I enjoyed every minute thanks to his guidance
E Fulsang <email>
Grants Pass, OR USA Fri 10/22/2004
Paris 2004
We used Paris 2004 to guide us on our trip this past September. I went with my husband and mother. We stayed at the Hotel Royal Phare and had an excellent stay. The back rooms have a good, albeit obscured view of the Eiffel Tower and the location couldn't be better-right by a metro stop, a supermarket and the rue Cler. Staying near the rue Cler was lovely. Even postal workers were friendly!
We enjoyed a riverboat tour on the Seine-surprisingly not cheesy like I'd thought. It was a good welcome to Paris and worth the 10 euros. St. Chapelle was glorious and worth the line. My mother loved the Rodin museum. I think the gardens were our favorite. We also enjoyed Sephora on the Champs Elysees walk as it was just plain fun even for non-girly-girls like me! The Eiffel tower was well worth the money and wait even though we'd been up it before. It just doesn't get old.
The only hitch we encountered was with the museum pass. We tried to buy one (like good Rick Steves disciples) and the woman at the TI said the next two days were 'free museum days' at all Paris museums. Well, she was wrong. We waited in line to pay at the Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, St. Chapelle and the Rodin Museum. I'm not sure why we didn't insist on buying a pass. It was a small thing but we pretty much kicked ourselves for not going with the pass.
JS Goldsberry
Jackson, MS USA Thu 10/21/2004
Port Royal Hotel and Airport Connection Shuttle
I read about the one star Port Royal hotel in Rick's book and also in Conde Nast travel magazine about this hotel with low prices but run with quality. I also checked out their website and the rooms looked nice.
The room they gave me was very dreary with lumpy beds, bedlights that did not work, and dirty towels. I took a peak into the room next to me as the maids were cleaning it, and it was totally different. The bathroom was newly remodeled and the room was cheery.The manager said the hotel was full so I could not change to another room. The next morning, I asked if I could get a discount instead of paying the same price as the nicer rooms, he went into a loud fit and said no. Even if he did not want to give a discount, he could be more diplomatic about it.
I took Airport Connection shuttle from the airport to the hotel. Once, we got the hotel, I paid the driver and then he asked for a tip. It is up to me if I want to tip not for him to ask. I gave one euro and he rejected it because it was not enough for him!
Julia
Chicago, IL USA Wed 10/20/2004
Lice and Scabies
We had a great 30 days in Europe using Rick Steves books except for the lice and scabies at the very end (either Beaune or Paris). We had paid particular attention to hygeine to no avail. We won't say which hotels but will say if the sheets are threadbare, blankets are 'hairy', and the matress very old..trick or treat.
P Lindgren <email>
Seattle, WA USA Tue 10/19/2004
Museum Pass, Sight information, and A hotel to consider
Consider the Museum pass a First Class upgrade to your sightseeing. I almost enjoyed avoiding the line more than some of the museums I went to! I followed Rick's advice and bought the Pass a the archaeoligical crypt under Notre Dame, however they only accepted CASH! No biggie, I went to an ATM and refilled my money belt.
Saint Chappelle was fantastic! It's like you are in a stained glass aquarium! There is an Xray machine at the main entrance but you can go through either side, don't worry that only one side says Saint Chappelle, they both end up on the other side, a real time saver. My 12 year-old was a bit bored with the Orsay and the Louvre, but got a real kick out of the Pompidou Center; I guess a blue square on a wall is more exciting then a DaVinci. The Eiffel tower "sparkles" at night. On the hour, they light up strobes all over the tower, really beautiful! Especially from the Trocadero.
We stayed at Hotel des Batignolles, a triple was 73 Euro, tax included. The neighborhood had tons of resturaunts, from McDonalds to Lebanise! Comfortable beds, and the nicest staff (family run)! It's nothing fancy and the walls were a bit thin but after walking in Paris all day, you'll find that you can sleep pretty easily.This was my 5th trip to Paris and I hope to return soon!
JD Lane <email>
Long Beach, CA USA Tue 10/19/2004
Restaurants
I want to recommend the restaurant Les Bistro des Cigales to other Paris travelers. The food was excellent.The staff was extremely helpful. It's my new favorite!
Katie Tovar <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA Sat 10/16/2004
Paris Rodin Museum with child, hop on/off bus to avoid
In Paris, we stayed at the Hotel de la Tour Eiffel near the Rue de Cler neighborhood. It was fine, but not fabulous. Clean, fairly attractive, fairly nice location and price, but hotel was a bit worn and staff, although friendly, seemed a bit overwhelmed. (Although the hotel was not super busy, the staff regularly forgot things and seemed stressed dealing with 2 things at once). Since we were traveling with a toddler, the hotel gave us a triple for the price of a double AND provided a free travel crib in the room.
If you are interested in a hop on/hop off tour bus, I do NOT recommend the red buses (Coches de Rouges?). The headphone commentary provided almost no information, and some of the views from inside the bus were bad. There are several other hop on/hop off buses, so I would try one of those companies.
For families with kids in strollers, be aware that the Rodin Museum does not allow strollers inside, but the sculpture garden outside is a great place for kids. You and your travel partner can either take turns outside with your kids, or you can go go through the museum holding child, using the museum child carrier (probably only good for an infant), or let your child walk - CAREFULLY - through the museum.
Karen <email>
USA, now Belgium, USA Tue 10/12/2004
Hotels
I won't reiterate all the positive comments about the excellent advice in the book about general stuff around Paris - it's all true.
Unfortunately, we had booked a hotel months before getting the guidebook. When we showed up, it was a horrible dive. We grabbed our Rick Steves Paris book and walked down to the Marais neighborhood, where we walked into the Hotel Vieux-Marais. It was outstanding! Very reasonably priced, clean, awesome neighborhood, and the staff was super - they gave us restaurant recommendations each night, etc. After hearing about our bad experience with the other hotel, they even knocked the price down for the first night because they felt sorry for us.
If this was any indication of a typical experience using the book, I suspect you couldn't go wrong with any of the accommodations in it. THANK YOU, RICK!!!
Marty
Alameda, CA USA Tue 10/12/2004
Family just back from Paris
Rick's book was a wonderful help in Paris. When touring Versaille, for instance, I used the information in it to teach my two five year old boys about the Palace and to keep them interested. It worked wonderfully. They were really interested and listened intently. Of course, after touring the Palace and gardens, dad took them in a row boat on the grand canal as a treat.
We didn't use Rick's hotels but used another one that we were told about, the Hotel de la Porte Doree. (273, avenue Daumesnil - 75012 Paris, phone: 01 43 07 56 97 -- www.hoteldelaportedoree.com). 65 Euros per night for a double. The owners are young (30s I think) and have out a lot of effort into renovating the hotel. It is beautiful but the hotel is only a two star. The rooms were large enough. The only draw back were the tiny showers. Not much room to turn around in. The hotel is just steps from the Porte Doree Metro stop and just a block away from a lovely park, the Paris Aquarium and more. A nice spot for families. One more note: the wife comes from Sacramento, California, originally and speaks fluent French and English. It was nice to have someone who could understand us and who we could also understand. And she and her husband are both very kind and enthusiastic.
Being our first time to Paris, we did all of the touristy things, the Eiffel Tower (and I feel it is worth the extra Euros to go to the top), Versaille, Giverny, the Seine Boat Trip, the Cutty Sark, Greenwich, etc. A wonderful time for all of us. And our boys loved riding the Metro!
As for friendliness, we experienced very friendly people everywhere. We too learned a few French phrases and used them as much as possible. People were very kind and helpful. Before we left for France we were warned how awful it would be by many, many people. But we went with the attitude that we would be friendly and, of course, everyone else would be too. And it seems to have worked! All in all, we enjoyed Rick's guide book and will use them every time we can.
S. Robinson
CA USA Mon 10/11/2004
Trip to Paris! Rue Cler.
My wife and I just returned from our honeymoon in Paris. We used Rick's suggestions extensively and had a wonderful time! Here are the details:
Hotel Relais Bosquet: A wonderful recommendation from Rick. The staff is friendly, the rooms are large and very nice (Huge bathroom!) and the price was fantastically low! We even had a woderful view of the Eiffel Tower from our balcony!
BatoBus: This is an invaluable service. For a small price (13 Euros for 2 days) we were able to ride up and down the Seine and get on and off the boats at our convenice. This was so usefull, in fact, that we didn't even have to use the Metro. They now have 10 stops along the river.
Rue Cler: This neighbourhood is fantastic. The people were very friendly and all of the restaurants were fantastic. We spent a lot of time simply enjoying the atmosphere of Rue Cler. Restaurants we recommend: Cafe Bosquet and Cafe du Marche.
One note to Rick's readers: We noticed a large number of tourists reading their Rick Steves' books as they toured the city. Most of these tourists seemed oblivious to their surroundings and made no attempt to follow Rick's suggestions about blending in and trying to follow the local customs. Unfortunately for these tourists, they were routinely treated like tourists by the locals and often complained about how rude the French were. On the contrary, my wife and I (who don't speak French) learned the key phrases, tried to be polite and put our guide book away when we were out and about. The result was that the French were polite to us and extremely friendly and helpful. So, if you put forth a little effort, the locals will definitely be grateful and will treat you well!
Thanks Rick for all the great suggestions! We had a wonderful time!
Ben <email>
Dallas, TX USA Mon 10/11/2004
Transit passes demystified
Mobilis, the non-tourist day pass, can help you save money on the Metro, the RER (regional rail network) and the bus in Paris. Mobilis is always cheaper than Paris Visite, the tourist pass. Mobilis lets you commit one day at a time. I found I used the Metro heavily on some days and just walked on other days. You can also vary the scope. For example, you can buy an 8E80, 4-zone Mobilis pass on the day you plan to visit the Chateau de Versailles and a 5E30, 2-zone pass (Paris city limits) on other days.
Mobilis is sold at the ticket window in any Metro station -- but not the vending machine. The first time, you will receive a numbered card in addition to the actual magnetic stripe pass. Every time you buy a Mobilis pass, immediately write your card number and the current date on the pass.Some travelers will benefit from a Monday-to-Sunday pass ("Carte Orange, coupon hebdomadaire") or a calendar month pass ("Carte Orange, coupon mensuel"), or from a 10-ticket pack ("carnet"), instead of a Mobilis day pass. For all pass prices, go to http://www.citefutee.com/informer/tarif.php
For airport trips, one way Metro+RER tickets are generally the cheapest. Regardless of the number of zones you pay for, Mobilis is never valid for airport trips. The Carte Orange can be, but it may not be worth paying for the extra zones when you will make one or at most two airport trips. The one-way Metro+RER fare to/from Roissy CDG is 7E85 as of this writing.
Paul Marcelin-Sampson <email>
Santa Cruz, CA USA Sat 10/09/2004
Museum Pass & Hotel
Rick's guidebook for Paris was a lifesaver. The Museum Pass is a must. We bypassed LONG lines - kept expecting someone to laugh when we showed our pass and send us to the back of the line but it never happened - our line at the Louve had 10 whereas the general public line had hundreds. Hooray for saved time.
We stayed in a Citadines near the Louve that was convenient to everything, quite inexpensive, and very clean. It's small kitchen, even with dishwasher, was great for a few quiet meals in our room. Room was small but adequate. I know you don't usually recommend chains but we really enjoyed our stay there.
Sue Blouin <email>
Forest, MS USA Thu 10/07/2004
Paris - Hotel Royal Phare and Versailles
I stayed for four nights at Hotel Royal Phare and thought it was a very good value for the price. I got a top-floor room on the courtyard side - it was quiet, got great light from the window, and had a nice view of the Eiffel Tower. Both the room and bathroom were of adequate size and were very clean.
The day I went to Versaille, the RER-C train to the nearest stop had broken down, and there was nothing in the RS Guidebook to tell me about alternatives. I managed fine by asking around, but it might be helpful to include in the next book, that if for some reason the RER train isn't running, an alternative would be to take the suburban train out of Montparnasse to the Versaille-Chantier station. (It's a 10-minute walk from the station to the Versaille estate.)
Also, the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles was being renovated while I was there, so about half the room was blocked off from view. Dunno when that's scheduled to be completed, but if not soon, it might be helpful to mention that in the next update of the guidebook.
USA Thu 09/30/2004
Hotel Castex Feedback
Some good AND bad feedback on the Hotel Castex. The stay was very nice overall and a good value for the price. Accomodations were recently renovated, the A/C worked well, and the area of Paris was great. It was a 10 min walk to Ile St. Louis and 5 mins further to Notre Dame. The Metro was a 5 min walk or less.
The hotel served us well with one exception. The front desk person on duty the last night of our stay was new (his 1st night on the job). When we came to the hotel from a day on the town he was outside smoking. He did not greet us when we entered (we did not know if he was a guest or just hanging around at the front door). He also took his time and finished smoking his cigarette (1 - 2 mins) before coming in so we could ask for our room key. In addition, we found he was completely unwilling to help with dinner reservations (claims of ignorance of how to use a computer, and how to use a telephone book, etc.). He also decided to take out the garbage at around 1am or 2am, and did so extremely loudly.
The experience with that person was very different from the other folks at Castex, which all seemed great in comparison. The other folks were all very nice and extremely helpful.
The only downside of the hotel was the fact that the walls were a bit thin (common in Europe I have found) and that our room had only a bathtub with spray attachment (no standup shower, also common I have found). These were no big deal. The rooms were nice and a very good size relative to other hotels I have been to in France. The decor was also nice and new.
I would recommend both the hotel and Le Marais. You'll get a good hotel value for the money and a great, central, safe location. We would stay there again and would recommend the hotel to friends.
ONE WARNING THOUGH While at Hotel Castex I used their international calling service. This is something the hotel puts on a little sign next to the phone, and which we stupidly used. The service is from: Call to International P.O. Box 3529 Long View, Texas 75606 1-800-576-2118 The service charges were approx. $40 for a 5 minute call, which is absurd unless you call the US from the moon. Be aware!
J:L <email>
NYC, NY USA Tue 09/28/2004
Paris without pain
My two sisters and I just returned from 6 days in Paris and had a fabulous time thanks to Rick. We had other guide books that we read for culture and history, but no one beats Rick for real, practical, no nonsense advice. The tip about the museum pass was worth the cost of the guide book alone!
We spoke a little french (which was always answered in french) tried to be polite and followed Rick's tips. People were polite and friendly in return without fail. We asked for help and directions in stores, and one kind man came to us to offer help with our telephone card and the phone. I think it's important to learn a few key phrases in french (which you can get from Rick's guide) and try to fit in as much as possible.We stayed in the Left Bank Contrescarpe area and loved it. It's a real neighborhood, with enough restaurants and cafes to satisfy anyone.
Our next trip will be to Italy and you can believe I will be studying Rick's guides before I go. Our private little joke phrase was "Rick is the man!"
Sharon Hill <email>
Cincinnati, OH USA Tue 09/28/2004
Rue Cler restaurant
We stayed in the Rue Cler neighborhood at the Hotel du Champ de Mars. Clean rooms and great location but rooms are really small.
The very best restaurant we enjoyed during our stay in Paris was La Casa di Sergio. We have been in Italy and this is as good as any restaurant there. If you tire of French cooking and want a wonderful meal with enthusiastic service, go see Sergio.
Wayne Beckwith <email>
Loveland, OH USA Mon 09/27/2004
Paris Part 3
This was our third visit to paris and fourth to France. Since we bypassed Rue Cler on our last visit we decided to stay in the area again. We stayed at Hotel Muguet. This hotel has all the physical amenities one could ask for. It is very clean and modern. It even has a soap dish in the shower. There were, however,two minor problems. The Three ladies(witches)behind the reception desk were not at all service oriented. They acted as though customers were an imposition. This did not bother us because of our experience and we did not need them.If someone were traveling to Paris/France for the first time they would certainly get the wrong impression from this unusually bad attitude. The evening guy was very polite. The other problem was that the breakfast room is too small and glass enclosed. This means that you have to listen to the prattle of Americans from a certain part of the country. If nothing else were available we would stay here again. We generally try to stay in different hotels or different areas.
We had a lunch at cafe Roussillon(always better food and service than du Marche) and a quick supper at Le Comptoir du Septieme (adequate). One of the highlights of this trip was dinner at Le Florimond. As stated above,we try not to eat or sleep in the same place twice unless it is exceptional. We ate at Le Florimond two nights in a row. The food is fabulous and the service was one of best we have ever experienced in France(the three witches could learn here).
Note to the editor of the books:Before a trip to Italy in May of 2003 I checked with some financial types about the Euro. At that time it was about $1.16. They said to plan on $1.20 to 1.25 in the future. The book still says $1.10. Time to update your info.
George Scott <email>
Mn USA Mon 09/27/2004
Paris Corrections
I recently spent a weekend in Paris with my brother, we had RS's guide to Paris with us the whole time. A few corrections to make though.
The Mona Lisa is no longer in the Salle des Etats, it is now in a room at the end of the Grand Gallery.
At Versailles, the Versailles Pass is not available at the train station; it is available at the tourist office just up the road from Versailles, or in fact, at the Palace itself. It is recommended that you purchase this pass before noon, because otherwise you will not have enough time to use the pass enough to make it worthwhile. Also it now costs 6 euros to get into the gardens if the fountains are running, which I highly recommend everyone see.
I am in London for a total of three months for a semester abroad, and so far I have used RS's London guide for many weekend trips, and just sightseeing after class. He knows his stuff.
Lisa <email>
USA Mon 09/27/2004
Great little hotel with smiling help
Never read Rick's book until after we had been to Europe. We spent 5 nights in Paris at the Duquesne Eiffel and loved it. Fabulous room and friendly staff, as were all the parisians while we were there (spring 2003). Highly recommend Duquesne Eiffel
Brian Reynolds <email>
Johnson Creek, WI USA Sat 09/11/2004
Hotel Giardino
I went to Rome in Oct. 03 and stayed at the Hotel Giardino. It was great!! Kate and the staff were very helpful(even loaned me an umbrella when I needed one!) Stayed for 4 nights and even helped me set up the airport shuttle when I had a very early flight the next morning. Centrally located and a good breakfast. While I was there, I met 3 couples from NYC and we had a lively conversation every morning with staff over breakfast. I would definitely stay there again!!
David Matthews <email>
Cambridge, MN USA Sat 09/11/2004
Paris Hotel/Restaurant comments
Stayed in Hotel Alma on Rue Exposition out of Rick's book. A Great location super close to the Eiffel Tower, rue Cler neighborhood and convenient to many great restaurants. They are still honoring Rick's discount rate of 79 euro vs. 120euro even when they are booked full! (www.alma-paris-hotel.com) Try to avoid the 6th/top floor if it's warm weather season, as it get a bit warm. Had a fan and was okay. I think they are haning onto their 3 star rating, as the bathrooms are in need of tile repairs. We stayed in 2 different rooms and found them the same. When leaving and going to Charles de Gaulle, allow up to an hour and a half (vs. 40-60 minutes in Rick's book, esp. for Terminal 1 as it's the last stop)from Opera to the airport on the Roissybus. They completely SHUTDOWN check in an hour prior to your outbound flight and we missed it by 10 minutes and had to re-book for the next day...worth the 50 or so euro to take a taxi to the airport! We also ate at a couple of Rick's restaurants (more by accident vs. planned).. Thoumieux I felt was more expensive than it should be..paying for the atmosphere and fancy-ness. La Casa di Sergio was a great meal, tons of food, and like Rick says..just trust him if you get the Rick Special..you won't be disappointed. The half bottle of house wine was expensive though at 14 euro. It's next door practically to Hotel Alma. Sergio has a Rick menu and there were numberous locals there (the restaurant is smaller than my living room) and they were being given a different menu but with the same offerings. Cafe du Marche has a great steak tartare and the waitress was a bit surprised when an American ordered it. Great place to sit and people watch.For a great free view and a decent reasonably priced lunch, go to the rooftop terrace at the department store Printemps Haussemann near the Opera. Unobstructed views of the Eiffer Tower and a cafeteria style place that was very reasonable.
Lisa Reinecke <email>
Elm Grove, WI USA Sat 09/11/2004
Marais Neighborhood in Paris
My mom and I stayed in the Marais neighborhood and loved it. The location was wonderful-near the Notre Dame, Basille and several open air markets. It was also very easy to get anywhere in Paris from the Marais.
We stayed at the Hotel Sevigne-which was much more affordable than other hotels in Paris. It is about 25 yards from the metro stop-making it simple to get anywhere in Paris. The owners of the Hotel Sevigne (Roger and Yvette) were wonderful and very hospitable. We highly recommend it.Thanks for a great trip Rick!Amy & MaryAnn (my mom)
Amy Lavin <email>
minneapolis, mn USA Sun 09/05/2004
Hotel Palais Bourbon & other Paris items
We give a very close thumbs down for Hotel du Palais Bourbon in the 7th arrondissement (Invalides area).
On the plus side: fantastic location, clean, well-sized rooms, and a good breakfast.
On the down side: extensive renovation work, they cleaned the last morning while we were still in the room (checkout wasn't until 1200); and a discrepancy on the phone bill.As I said, this is a very close thumbs down; in fact it could be a very close thumbs up. So take a look at the other recommendations and please decide for yourself.
Rue de Cler is a must! Pack some food for a picnic any chance you can get! The metro is fantastic. Jardin Luxembourg is great for kids.
M. McCormick <email>
Rome, IT IT Sun 09/05/2004
Hotel Castex
My wife and I celebrated our 30th anniversary with a RS trip to Paris. We stayed at the Hotel Castex and were pleased to find that it was upgraded to 3 stars since this year's book was published. They are still honoring the charges listed in the book.
Pat LaVergne <email>
Houston, TX USA Tue 08/31/2004
ATMs Out of Service at Gare du Nord
Traveled from London to Paris via Eurostar in mid-July and found that the ATM machines at Gare du Nord station were all out of service. In fact, it didn't appear that they had been in service for quite awhile. We had planned on using an ATM to get Euros to pay for the taxi ride from the station to the hotel in central Paris. Luckily, we were able to use our check card at a currency exchange kiosk in the train station for a fee. I would recommend getting some Euros before leaving Waterloo station in London. FYI: You can use both British Pounds and Euros while on the train to purchase food and beverages. When exiting Gare du Nord station to look for a taxi, avoid the shady-looking guys that offer to walk you right to a taxi...they will take you to a taxi but will expect a 2-3 Euro fee for doing so. Just look for the line of taxis, and take the first available.
Mike
Overland Park, KS USA Sun 08/29/2004
Faulty print
I found to my dismay, that I've purchased a faulty copy of Rick's Paris 2004.Pages 93 -140 are repeated &141 - 188 missing.Otherwise the book is terrific! We used and modified some of the tours and walks and had a great time;)
Nicole <email>
Munich, Bayern Germany Sun 08/29/2004
Paris Catacombs tour
Times listed in the guide for the Catacombs tour were incorrect.
Barry Altman <email>
Vienna, VA USA Sat 08/28/2004
Hotel Muguet, Paris
Hotel Muguet near the La Tour Maubourg metro stop was terrific. Charming room, immaculate bathroom with huge bath towels, great air conditioning and an extremely helpful staff. The proximity of the deli's and food shops on Rue Cler was great for picnic lunches or dinners. The residential neighborhood was quiet and felt quite safe walking back to the hotel late at night from the metro. This hotel actually looks like the photos posted on its website and brochures.
Elizabeth <email>
Chicago, IL USA Tue 08/24/2004
Paris
My husvand and I just returned from an 11-day trip to France. 4-days in South of France and 7 days in Paris. Just wanted to thank Rick for his guidebooks and phrasebooks, we had the most wonderful time. We stayed at Hotel Lyon-Mulhouse** (Marais/Bastille area) and we would go back. One downside was the lack of a/c or a ceiling fan, but no biggie. It was comfortable and had pleasant employees.
G. Kaplan
Los Angeles, CA USA Thu 08/19/2004
Hotel Saint Honore Paris 1e
We stay in this hotel for 5 nights ($65/night). The room is small but comfortable. But considered the location. 5 mins walk to Louvre, Centre Pompidou, Les Halls (right in the middle of the action). Best of all the laudette is right in front of the hotel, and cheap eating joints at Les Halls area. Not bad for this 1star hotel. Highly recommended!!! the hotel can be find in www.123europe.com
Tyler Hoang <email>
Aliso Viejo, CA USA Wed 08/18/2004
Paris hotel
We stayed at Hotel De France** EU,68Db With continental breakfast.We booked early over the phone.Good clean place with small but nice rooms with bathroom and close to Rue Mouffetard with those great restaurants.
Kurt and Claudette <email>
Vancouver, BC Can. Wed 08/18/2004
Paris thoughts
Just returned from a 4-week European trip, including 4 days in Paris. Some thoughts:
(1) A general idea -- have a plan for what you'll do if members of your party get separated. This happened to us in Paris at one point and was pretty scary. After that, we had a policy for everywhere: in museums, we made eye contact before one of us moved on to another room. On the Metro, we agreed that if we were separated, we'd meet on the platform of the station we were going to. Just about everywhere else we agreed to meet where tickets were collected.
(2) The Hotel du Champs de Mars was nice, although we stayed in 2 different rooms and the second was drastically better than the first -- the first was on the ground floor and the only window opened directly onto the door and window of a neighboring room, as well as the main stairwell. Since it was really hot and there's no AC, we had to decide between heatstroke and exhibitionism. We chose the latter, but didn't sleep well with the noise of the other guests coming and going. The second room was on the 4th floor facing the back, and was much quieter. Great bathrooms. The front desk staff was nice, though one of the women who serves breakfast was spectacularly rude.
(3) We loved our early evening visit to the Luxembourg Gardens, and I'd highly recommend this to any visitor. You can sit and people-watch and enjoy the gorgeous flowers -- perfect when you are tired after a long, hot day, and want to relax somewhere scenic. The prettiest garden I saw in a month in Europe.
(4) I took the trouble to learn some pretty basic French before traveling, and it helped immensely. Learn enough to say basic niceties like excuse me, please, thank you, you're welcome, sorry; ask and understand basic directions; compliment things; learn numbers if you can; pick up a few verbs like "I have," "I am," and "I would like;" learn the vocabulary for foods, drinks, hotel amenities, etc., that you will most want to ask for. Not only did the French seem to appreciate my attempts, it allowed me to have some basic chats with friendly folks, like a gregarious Versailles security guard, which always made my day. I agree with other posts -- the French are generally more formal than Americans, but the vast majority of people I encountered were very nice and helpful.
(5) Beware scam artists at the train station. We arrived on the Eurostar from London and tried to follow Rick's advice by using a machine to buy Metro tickets (and avoid the line). However, my meager French made the screen instructions confusing, and soon a "helpful" man appeared and, to make a long story short, gave us misinformation (that carnets were no longer sold) and hovered around; when our credit card wouldn't work in the machine, he used a card he had to buy some absurdly expensive tickets for us, and then tried to get us to pay him back in cash. (Two different guys tried to do this to us while we were standing there trying to decipher the machine.) He was very persistent, but left us alone after we insisted we had no cash in ANY currency. After that, we stood in the ticket window line for 5 minutes and were pleased to deal with a polite and trustworthy Metro employee who sold us a carnet.
(6) We had an excellent, excellent lunch at the Cafe Richelieu at the Louvre. A little pricey, but sitting on the terrace with a view of the Louvre courtyard and pyramid, the delicious food, and the pleasant, attentive service made it more than worth it.
(7) Getting the Paris Museum Card is the best idea ever. The lines at Saint-Chapelle and Versailles in particular were spectacular in early August, and we just sailed right past them. Even if it won't save you money on admissions, this card is worth it for the line-jumping.
M. T. Benson <email>
Cambridge, MA USA Mon 08/16/2004
Victory Tours
Thanks Roel for a wonderful day. For those of you who want to tour the Normandy area, my recommendation is this: Call Roel Klinkhamer, book yourself a night (or two) at the Chateau de Lignerolles and let yourself enjoy. We we only able to spend a fleeting 6 hours with Roel, but it was informative, pleasant and fun. Our 11 year old had a blast and as it seems with all of Rick's recommendations, we were treated like newly found old friends. Enjoy the "clicky-clicky, beepy-beepy" and the wonderful stories.
JK <email>
Washington Twp, NJ USA Sun 08/15/2004
Hotel Muguet and the Carte Musee
Just got back from Paris, and wanted add our thanks to Rick, Steve, and Gene for the 2004 Paris Book. We booked the Hotel Muguet - the staff was wonderful, the air conditioning a godsend, and the view of the Tour Eiffel from our room was spectacular.
As to the musuem pass, its worth every Euro - just for the time that you don't spend waiting in line. We estimate that in five days, we saved over eight hours of time by not standing in line at Versailles, the Louvre, Notre Dame and in particular St. Chapelle. I think we may have missed the unbelievable St. Chapelle if we had to wait in what looked to be a two hour line - our son would not have made it (me either) So if its close - get the pass - you'll be glad you did.
John K <email>
Sewell, NJ USA Sun 08/15/2004
Chez Agnes
We had the dining experience of a lifetime - and the food was good too! We went for my birthday, were greeted by Agnes (watch your pronunciation, I got bopped on the head for being incorrect) and Gypsy. Met two couples from Charlotte and were all treated like we were family. It's like going to visit with your grandmother. My son (11) will never forget the look he got when he ordered soup on a hot day and didn't finish his dinner. But be warned - eating here is not for everyone. It is not a pretentious, dress to impress, sniff the wine cork kind of place. It's a wonderful, comfort food with friends and family kind of place - (ask the poor English gentleman who was just a little too particular about his order and how it should be prepared). So if you want good food with a real original - visit Agnes and make sure you have plenty of time for dinner and stay to have some of her "apple juice" It's a real treat.
John Kauffeld <email>
Sewell, NJ USA Sun 08/15/2004
Travel cost
Oops--re my previous email regarding the cost of our trip to France. I actually miscalculated the debit card and our total cost was "only" $6945 including everything--plane fare, hotels, eating, train tickets, entry to events and museums. When I figured the difference in 2002 in the exchange rate for the dollar, our 2002 trip to GB would have cost $7500 this year. So I guess it is par for our trip this year. Oh, well--travel costs!
E Cleary <email>
USA Sun 08/15/2004
Louvre
My wife and I visited the Louvre on May 17, May 19 and May 22, 2004 and for the most part just loved the Museum. It was beautiful and beyond compare.
However, our visits were nearly ruined with patrons taking flash photographs and touching the statues throughout the galleries. My wife and I went up to a number of security guards and expressed our concerns about the flash photography. The security guards were very friendly and kind, but said that basically it is not a problem when people use flash photography. We have always been told that flashes severely age works of art. We have a hard time believing that flash photography is not damaging as other Museums with much less important art do not allow flash photography and some do not allow cameras at all. Also many of the security guards would just sit, sometimes with their eyes closed and not get out of their chairs. Others seemed to spend much of their time talking with other security guards and seemed oblivious about their real job duties. If we saw this type of behavior going on during our brief visit to Paris, one would fear it must be going on all of the time.
A few years ago when we visited the Louvre we did not see any of this type of behavior. We saw one teenage visitor leaning against 2-3 of your Greek statues with no one correcting her. Other visitors were routinely touching any sculpture they chose to. We were shocked. I know that many other museums - such as the Pompidou Center - with much less important works can control touching/flash photography. I cannot tell you how concerned I am that such important works of art are being damaged.
I think they need many more reminders to not touch/use flash photography throughout the museum. Then I think that the security guards need to follow up on any flashes or touching. People being what they are will need to be reminded and corrected. When we visited the National Gallery in London they did not allow cameras at all – flash or not. I would definitely prefer this to having the current state of flashes/touching going on which might cause irreparable damage to irreplaceable works of art.
I think that the more people are aware of and express their concerns, the more the Lourvre will need to respond to protect these works of art.
Don Weir <email>
USA Sat 08/14/2004
Trip to France
We just got all our bills (Visa, debit card) for our recent trip to France (July for 20 days) We stayed in very modest hotels (all with private bathroom though), ate picnic stye except for one meal a day, and that in modest cafes recommended in the guide book. For the two of us, backpacking and travelling on trains and buses the total was $8300. We have to find a less expensive way to travel (or win the lottery :). Two years ago we followed Rick's 21 day plan for Great Britain and even with renting a car, the total cost was around $6000. Prehaps the dollar being lower accounts for it. But I would welcome ideas. Does that cost seem reasonable?
Enid Cleary <email>
Wilmette, IL USA Sat 08/14/2004
Versaillles
RER C that takes you to Versailles is closed between Austerlitz and Invalides. Take a Metro to Invalides and transfer to RER C from there. BK
BK
Portland, OR USA Tue 08/10/2004
Pairs Highlight
Just one other thing about Paris: the most stunning experience you can possibly ever have is to walk up the spiral staircase in Saint Chapelle to the Upper Chapel and.... WOW..... as Rick says: "Fiat lux".
And if you get there on Rick's "historic Paris walk" you'll just have seen the Deportation Memorial, which in its simplicity and power makes you think of the Vietnam Memorial in DC.
Ray Clarke <email>
Malvern, PA USA Mon 08/09/2004
Hotel du Champ de Mars, Paris in general
Our family of 4 just spent 4 days in Paris as part of a month long Germany/Austria/Switzerland/Italy/France/London trip. Hotel du Champ du Mars was delightful. Immaculate rooms with view of the Eiffel Tower, local street action, etc. Breakfast delicious but came at a leisurely pace! Guidebook restaurant recommendations were completely accurate. Recommend the Sewer Tour, Musee d'Orsay and picnic in the Champ de Mars gardens. Picasso Museum mostly shut for renovations of some sort. Montmartre walk was fun but tough to follow directions especially if you try to make any modifications! Rick is so right about the Mona Lisa and the Eiffel Tower. No trouble with pickpockets but we were hyper-vigilant.
Ray Clarke <email>
Malvern, PA USA Mon 08/09/2004
Hotel Bourdonnais
This was our thrid trip to Paris and as usual Rick was there for us with one exception. We took our two children with us this trip and wanted to stay in the Rue Cler area. I choose the Hotel de la Bourdonnais and booked the junior suite for 215 euros per night. The room was just off to the left of the front desk but we never heard anything. My complaint with the room was that the micro airconditioner was unable to cool the room. It was cooler at the front desk with the front door open (in July) than it was in our room. Opening the windows was no help because being on the ground floor the windows had a wall that blocked people from looking in. There was zero draft. I asked the front desk to check the AC and maybe give us a fan to use. The small circular fan which did not go back and forth helped some but still not enough. The room was not worth it. The area was nice. Fran prix next door. Best dinner value was on Rue cler at a Chinese Rotisserie chicken place. Get the Carte orange if staying a week and the museum pass is a must. Over all we had a good time but it was no inexpensive.
JK
Nashville, TN USA Sun 08/08/2004
Versailles Crowds are Unbelievable & Parisians were Nice Folks
Rick's Parisian recommendations were right on. Rue Cler was just as we expected. Being in Paris on Bastille Day was a special treat (the fireworks at the Eiffel Tower were breathtaking). I highly recommend the Hotel de la Tulipe on Rue Malar. A bit expensive, but very clean/nice and only a couple of blocks off Rue Cler. The one disappointment was Versailles due to the crowds (even though the imposing line to enter moves fast). The compound is unbelievable in scope/size and grandeur, and the gardens are the best I've ever seen. The tour inside the chateau, however, was so unbelievably crowded that it was worthless. We literally could not move in some corridors/rooms. I would recommend touring the inside of the chateau only during slow times (we visited in the middle of the day). Getting to Versailles and back was made easy via taxi from central Paris (about 25 Euros each way). This is the best way to get to Versailles if you are in a hurry to catch a plane/train later in the day. Otherwise, the RER train to Versailles sounded like a very good alternative. Overall, we enjoyed Paris but liked London alot better. Finally, we did not encounter a single situation whereby Parisians were rude or displayed un-American tendencies. On the contrary, the people of Paris were very nice and were quick to speak English when our very limited French needed some help.
Mike
Overland Park, KS USA Sun 08/08/2004
Hotel du Champs de Mars
Hotel du Champs de Mars was tres chic and tres jolie.The owner was so sweet to my daughter and I.She was very helpful,and gave us advice about places to go and being safe. It is a stroll away from the Eiffel Tower and the Metro. Nice neighborhood.
The people in Paris were helpful and friendly. when we had to ask directions ( over and over) the people were kind and eager to help. We met no rudeness, no bad feelings towards us, no dog droppings. As a matter of fact even the dogs in Paris are polite. No leashes required. They greet each other kindly, and I never saw a misbehaving dog. We did see a very funny sight. we could hear a dog barking, and when we came round the corner there was a large dog with it's paws up on a windowcase. As we came closer we could wsee the owner of the butcher shop would throw bits to the dog, and then the dog would "woof woof" for more. It was right out of Lady and the Tramp.
Back to the Hotel though, the owner was very nice to us. When we left she gave my daughter a key-chain as a souvenier.We had breakfast sent to our room so we could eat at our leisure, and it was the best croissant I've ever tasted, along with juice, rolls, bread butter, jams, yogurt coffee and chocolate. I had a marvelous time in Paris.
Valerie <email>
Seattle, WA USA Sat 08/07/2004
Re: Hotel Muguet
GREAT GREAT GREAT!!! We were in Europe for 2 weeks this was the best hotel we stayed in! Fantastic. The owner was very helpful and gave us awesome tips. I would stay here again in a second. HUGE rooms AND bathrooms! We also were lucky enough to have a fantastic KODAK moment view of the Eiffel Tower outside our room!
Ellicott City, MD USA Tue 08/03/2004
Local Tours
We arranged for a 3 hour private walking tour with a guide from Paris Walks when we were there with our 10 and 12 year old kids. She brought the history of Paris alive for them, and afterwards they kept referring to things she told them as we went back for more in depth looks at the places she showed us. Very worthwhile!
Sue <email>
Newport Beach, CA USA Tue 08/03/2004
Sleeping
We just stayed at Hotel la Bourdonnais with our 2 kids and loved it. Nice size rooms, the staff was very helpful, and the location was great, near Rue Cler, Ecole Militare Metro and the Eiffel Tower. Found the self-guided tours sections of Rick's Paris book especially helpful. The "Orientation" section was a big help in knowing what to expect and how to use the Metro, and we found most everyone we met to be helpful and friendly.
Sue <email>
Newport Beach, CA USA Tue 08/03/2004
Hotel Du Pantheon Paris
Stayed last week at Hotel Du Pantheon in the Paris Latin Quarter. Your book was right on. Excellent little hotel. Request 5th or 6th floor for best view. Great value for the $$$.
sarah christman <email>
Dove Canyon, CA USA Sun 08/01/2004
rudeness
i agree with the people who say that the french are more reserved and polite. Manners are definitely a must in dealings with shop keepers etc. Always say Bonjour Madame, Mdms, Mr....etc and it helps when you leave always say merci madame etc even if you did not buy any thing. taking the time to learn a few french phrases is invaluable. as to pickpockets they are endemic in nyc and also sf working much same way as in any large city. you always have to keep your wits about you.
If you buy a map the parisians use called PARIS PAR ARRONDISEMENT you will have in one handy book (which has translations in eng italian and german as well) all streets in every area of paris and complete bus and subway and rer maps. some of the books even have useful suburban maps (versailles) you will see parisians using theirs to check metro stops etc. They are awailable at all newspaper stands in paris.
I always splurge for a french newspaper or magazine (I do read and speak French) but it is fun and cheap to buy a french ELLE which has great photos.....it makes a nice souvenier and you can hide your english mag in side.
Since the advent of the euro however you will encounter more and more people who not only speak english they also read english mags and books on their commutes. Parisians are no ruder than people I have encountered in San Francisco or other large cities...Everyone has a bad day.
Susanne
san anselmo, ca USA Thu 07/29/2004
Fixing Hotel Problems
First: Many of the posts below discuss the person who had a problem, not the problem itself. However, bigger mice might call for bigger mousetraps, not a sermon to the cat on mousecatching. : - )
So, you arrive at the hotel and something won't do.
Tip number 1: KISS. Keep it simple. Mention only the problems with the highest priority first. Decor is nice, but for most people a sound night's sleep is the priority.
Tip number 2: Be sure your proposed solution is practical to implement in the time allowed. Changing a hotel's decor or the bathroom fixtures is not practical in a few days. Changing the configuration of rooms booked might be. Also, some things might not be reversible. Taxis booked with a third party might not be wholly under the hotel's control. The firm might also have been picked by the hotel for reliability reasons, not price.
Tip number 3: Try to consider alternative solutions to your problem when taking it to the hotelier. Instead of "we need another/a better room" try "Our party needs a bigger bed or perhaps two beds. What do you suggest?"
Tip number 4. Be prepared to solve your problem in stages. The best solution might not occur to either you or the hotelier right away. Make it your first goal to improve the situation, not get rid of it entirely. Resist the urge to try and get it perfect, right away. In the above scenario, consider for the short term such solutions as:
** a portable cot
** doubling the number of rooms (expensive, but possibly cheaper than paying the cancellation penalty plus booking a different hotel) Book this option on a night-by-night basis. Be prepared to split your party up and have some go to another hotel in the immediate neighbourhood. Experiment. Think the unthinkable, if only for the next few hours.
And finally, tip number 5. Give the hotelier hope that this problem will be solved by the two of you eventually. Faith moves mountains, and if nothing else, feels better than despair.
Mac
CA Thu 07/29/2004
Paris
We spent a week in Paris and followed many of Rick's suggestions. As usual, his advice is priceless. We stayed at the Hotel Sansonnet in the Marais and had a wonderful experience. Unfortunately, the staff told us that the Sansonnet is being taken over by the hotel next door. I hope that it still merits a place in Rick's book -- it was a clean, affordable and central place to stay.
As noted in the book, the pickpockets are quite determined. I've been to Europe 9 times and have never even seen any until this trip. On a crowded Metro train, two guys very gently jostled me around while a third tried to pick my pocket. Because I was wearing a money belt, they didn't get anything -- it was an eerie experience, but as I look back on it, it was almost amusing.
Otherwise, we found the people in Paris to be as friendly (or unfriendly, depending on your perspective) as those of any other major city -- we encountered absolutely no Anti-American sentiment. As for sightseeing, the museum pass was a great deal, picnic lunches save you a lot of money, Vaux-le-Vicomte is just as much fun as Versailles . . . you name it, we found just about everything in the book to be true. Paris more than met my expectations. It was one of my best trips ever.
John <email>
Towson, MD USA Wed 07/28/2004
Rue Cler Gem
I just returned from a trip to France, where I led a group of 10 cyclists. We used Rick's books for the hotels, and the Hotel Muguet turned out to be quite a gem! I've stayed in other Rue Cler hotels, and have never had a bad experience. However, I will definitely return to the Muguet. Their staff was wonderful, the accomodations better than any I have had in Europe. It is recently remodeled, and absolutely beautiful, not to mention, extremely reasonably priced. I will definitely return!
Michell Haase <email>
Schaumburg, il USA Wed 07/28/2004
Paris Guidebook and Pere Lachaise Cemetery Tip
We spent a whirlwind day in Paris as an extension of Brussels long weekend earlier this month. I was amazed at how many others were also using Rick's guidebook! We found all of the info to be right on- actually we were pleasantly surprised to find out our metro day passes and a few other things were cheaper than the book mentioned.
One big tip- if you are planning to visit the Pere Lachaise cemetery (to perhaps visit Jim Morrison or Edith Piaf) be forewarned that the cemetery is ENORMOUS- and the walking surfaces are very uneven and irregular cobblestones. Buy a map of the layout from a flower shop outside the walls for 2 Euros and map out which graves you want to see. It took a good hour and a half to see three graves and my feet were ready for burial by the time we finished up!
This was my second trip to Paris since 1995- I found the locals friendlier this month than 9 years ago. The sentiment in Paris (as it is in many other cities) is NOT Anti-American, rather it is Anti-GWBushAdministration. We had no troubles from anyone. It was a great day and hopefully we'll get back for a third trip soon!
Stefanie S. <email>
Grand Rapids, MI USA Tue 07/27/2004
Paris
Le Bourdonnais restaurant was closed for renovation and no re-opening date was given.
Hotel de Lutece and Hotel des Deux Iles have a sister hotel in the Latin Quarter, Hotel Henri IV, Rive Gauche. It was newer than Lutece (where we also stayed) and also convenient to the metro but we found ourselves returning to Ile St. Louis for the dining and shopping. Had two lovely dinners at Le Tastevin and also tried a newly opened restaurant next to Hotel Lutece (Mon ???? Ami). The food was excellent.
Call ahead for the Chartres tour schedule. There was a wedding on the day we traveled and so we missed the tour.
We found the French to be formal and reserved but certainly not rude. As guests, it is our job to meet their expectations. We did not experience any anti-US sentiment other than disappointment that the French team was doing so poorly in Le Tour de France. With regards to the Metro, the people on it seemed like every other metropolitan subway I've ever ridden.
S. Barrows <email>
Fresno, CA USA Tue 07/27/2004
Kudos to RS Paris, a few tips and a great hotel find!
Great Guide: While I whined about Rick's Germany/Austria… book, I enjoyed his Paris Guide. I do wish he were more substantive at times, but I supplement his commentary with several months of my own art history and general history study for each place we visit. With that and with Rick's help, we not only eat, dress and get around like a local, we can put what we see and experience into a broader context and really BE wherever we are. At least once every trip, people ask US for directions! Yay! Thanks to Rick for showing us how to live lifestyle of serious and educated travel we can afford.
I would like more clothing tips for each season—perhaps a very short section in each book? Blending in really helps me feel more comfortable and makes me less of a target for theft and being taken advantage of.
A few tips:
Cover phrasebooks and other books you use in public and carry the ripped-out pages of your guides in a small black folder along with your maps. Nothing says "tourist" like whipping that stuff out on the corner, and nothing makes you more of a target on trains and subways (except perhaps talking loudly), but if your books are covered, you can refer to them at any time and be more informed and efficient.
Get a small dictionary so you can expand your vocabulary as you go, looking up words you see and hear a lot. Then use them. You'll be amazed at how much more connected you are and how much friendlier people seem.
Paris hotel recommendation: The Hotel Royal Cardinal, Left Bank. Good location, clean, good beds, SUPER staff! Some rooms tight. Some have balconies. All have bathrooms. Good rates. We just stayed there for a week and loved it. Room 207 is tops!
Ellen Vest <email>
Washington, DC USA Mon 07/26/2004
Monoprix
Monoprix are just about everywhere and have the best prices. The grocery story is in the basement and they have just about everything a tourist could want (fruit, bottled water, wine, bread, etc.). The housewares section has cork screws and knives. BUT, they are closed Sunday.
C. Shephard <email>
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Sun 07/25/2004
Metro Theft and Recovery
Foolishly disregarding Rick's safety tips on one day, we entered the Metro near the d"Orsay Museum with my wallet in the right hip pocket of some loose slacks. A 12 or 13 year old boy took it just after I went through the turnstile. Immediately aware of the theft and yellng "voleur," I turned to see the station agent pouncing on the kid. All was recovered, but I will never know if the agent released the kid or he broke free, because he was gone in the three seconds it took to hop back over.
Nelson Cleary <email>
Wilmette, IL USA Sat 07/24/2004
Grocery Stores
As far as grocery stores go, Monoprix is pretty much everywhere.
amanda <email>
minneapolis, mn USA Sat 07/24/2004
Hotel de la paix
I would like to say that I will NEVER ever purchase another Rick Steves book...EVER! I stayed with my mother at the Hotel de la Paix which was recommended in the Paris book in March, and it was the WORST hotel experience I have had in my life. The place was filthy, and I had not been notified of the fact that payment is required upon check in, that the dump would be run by thieving gypsies, or that it is impossible to find the place due to the fact that it's literally in an ALLEY that is not on ANY map of Paris. I also have it on good authority that Rick doesn't actually STAY at the hotels recommended in his books. I have confirmation of this fact by a hotel proprietor who advised me that Rick and his assistant came by and just kind of walked through their establishment. How does this man justify putting places like the Paix in his book???
amanda <email>
minneapolis, mn USA Sat 07/24/2004
Paris hotel
We just returned from 20 great days in France. Only one disappointment hotelwise: The Hotel de la Paix in the rue cler area. They require payment up front for the stay. After 5 days we travelled to other areas and then returned to Paris for 2 days, having reservations paid for at the Hotel de la Paix. When we arrived they had no record of our reservation. Luckily we had the paperwork and after 45 minutes at the reception they finally granted us a room--at first one which hadn't been cleaned and then finally one we could use. They are very disorganized. Other recommended hotels we used in France were great!!!!!
Enid Cleary <email>
Wilmette, IL USA Fri 07/23/2004
grocery stores & the French
A tip for the guidebook: As a family of 4 traveling, we found it extremely expensive to eat in Paris! We loved finding a little grocery store & were able to get great lunches & snacks there. However, it was very difficult to find them! (Except the Rue Cler neighborhood, of course). Could you please list grocery stores in your guidebooks, as important as you list attractions? We really think more people could use that info & if you listed ones in close proximity to your listed hotels, it would be great.
To readers: Do not, repeat, do NOT think the French are rude. I agree with someone on this site who said it is all in how you approach them--as it is with any human! We were all smiles & in wonderful moods because we fell in LOVE with Paris, and we found the French people wonderful. We had two separate times when a Parisian came up TO US on a street corner when we were obviously reading our map & looking lost, and ask us if we needed help with directions. Not only that, while waiting at street corners to cross, we constantly had cars stop and beep & motion us to cross! This would never happen in California, let me tell you! If you start every encounter with bonjour or bonsoir, you will be off to a great start. Be friendly, and you will attract friendliness.
Rhonda Darnell
Roseville, CA USA Thu 07/22/2004
Family hotel in Paris
I had trouble finding affordable accommodations for a family of 4 in Paris, so I went with a chain hotel, Novotel. If you are travelling with children, take a look at novotel.com. Novotel is part of the Accor chain, but the outstanding thing about Novotel in particular is that 2 kids under 16 stay free with a parent, and get a free buffet breakfast (presumably if the parents pay for a meal). They are all over Europe. We stayed at the Novotel Gare de Lyon in Paris, and the Novotel in Nimes. The Paris hotel was terrific, and I got special internet rates so the average price was about 135 Euros per night for four of us. The room was large, with a queen bed and a daybed with trundle, so both kids got their own bed. It was air-conditioned and totally soundproof, the breakfast was great, there was an indoor pool, and the kids loved the game-room with foos ball and playstation. I also appreciated being out of the heavily touristed areas; our hotel was filled with French business people during the week, and French families on the weekend, so it seemed more like we were experiencing life in France. I recommend it, especially if you have hungry teenagers!
Paris was great, of course. I recommend taking buses when you can. We made our own tour of the Champs Elysses on a city bus, and also enjoyed trips along the Seine with great views. Slower than the Metro, but very pleasant. Major museums and attractions other than the Eiffel Tower were not at all crowded, much to my surprise. I think all the French were at the summer sales, as the stores were completely mobbed.
Kathy F.
Seattle , WA USA Thu 07/22/2004
Hotel la Bourdonnais
Hotel la Bourdonnais. My husband, daughter and I stayed here for five days the week of Bastille Day. I would highly recommend the hotel. The room was large size and the highlight was a balcony with a view of the Eiffel Tower. The location is great - near a Metro stop, Rue Cler market and there is a supermarket next store. The staff is very friendly and helpful. We had a great time in Paris and the French were friendly with us.
Wendy Dahar <email>
Solon, OH USA Thu 07/22/2004
Paris - What a City!
My husband and I were in Paris for a week at the beginning of June and stayed at the Hotel Riviera in the 17th district. I would recommend this 2 star hotel which is only 1 1/2 blocks from the Arc de Triomphe. The staff at the hotel were very pleasant and helpful. Rooms were a bit small, but that's to be expected. We asked for a twin room since they are larger and ended up with a double bed and a single bed. The bathroom was larger than expected. The cost per night was 80 Euros. We used some of the suggestions in Rick's book and brought along Rick's map which was very helpful. Paris is a wonderful city to walk in. Some suggestions/highlights:
1. Have the African hot chocolate and a pastry at Angelina's which is across from the Jardin Des Tuileries. It is pricey, but worth every penny, what an experience! It was very filling and was lunch that day.
2. Venture outside the 7th district for restaurants, etc. Paris has wonderful places in all corners.
3. Montmatre - we took an Original Paris Walks walking tour (sister to Original London Walks) of Montmatre on a sunny clear Sunday morning. It was glorious. The Sacre Coeur is a must and the view over Paris is great.
4. One thing we weren't prepared for is that Paris basically shuts down on Sunday (except for the Champs Elysees). You will need to look a bit harder for a cafe that is open.
I got a lot of really good suggestions from fellow travelers on this site. I would go to Paris again in a heart beat!
C. Shephard <email>
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Wed 07/21/2004
The Rude French
I was so glad we seem to be off of the "Anti-American" diatribe that it was almost comforting to read about people complaining about the French, especially Parisians, being rude. My husband is French, typically so, and I have friends who are died in the wool New Yorkers (read: thick skinned) who find him rude and aloof. While I had spent about 10 years trying to explain the differences between us and the French, and with very little success at that, I officially gave up that role about two years ago and have been much happier. Now my friends can either like him or lump him depending. The truth is that France is not for everyone but I appreciate the posters who have at least given it a try and have decided that they do not wish to go back based on actual experience. Much more informed than the individuals who will not go because of the "war" or because they have simply heard that the French are rude. I feel that way about a number of cities and in fact a few countries I myself have visited. We are all allowed our opinions, after all.
Joeley
Hyde Park, NY USA Mon 07/19/2004
Re: Rudeness
I feel that I must come to the defense of the French. They are not rude, no more so than any other culture. The French are very reserved. They do not generally respond to a smile from a stranger, and "loud" voices make them very uncomfortable. I have traveled to Paris twice -- once alone, and once with a friend. Every time I hesitated in the Metro, or appeared the slightest bit lost, a Parisian always stopped and asked (in French, then in English) if I needed directions. I have had countless polite encounters, and many delightful conversations with the French, and only encountered one rude person. I have, however, encountered dozens of "Ugly Americans," and cringed with embarrassment. I never attempt to hide the fact that I am American (yes, I wear jeans and white athletic shoes in Paris.) I speak French, but even if you do not, begin every encounter with "Bonjour" (or "Bonsoir" in the evening,) and end with "Merci," and you should have no problems at all. Many people are intimidated by the notion that the French are rude, and won't travel to France for that reason. Don't ever let this fear stop you from traveling to France for the first time, or returning after a difficult experience.
Lisa <email>
Lansing, MI USA Fri 07/16/2004
Hotel Royal Phare, Paris
Hotel Royal Phare, Paris I stayed in this hotel a few days a go and I loved it, I got a double room with a wonderful view, very clean, the location is perfect ( near rue cler, 10min from the Eiffel tower, supermarket just in front, a bank next to the hotel…the metro at 10 meters), also, the staff is very helpful, all this for a reasonable price of 70 euros.
Linda Hardridge <email>
Dallas, tx USA Thu 07/15/2004
Re: Rude Parisians
We spent 4 days in Paris three months ago--my first trip to France, the land of my ancestors. I have studied French for eight years so am able to understand much of the language and also speak it, though not fluently. All of the monuments, museums, etc., were fabulous and thrilling and everything I had expected and more! However, Parisian behavior was extremely disappointing in that it was rude, condescending, unhelpful, COLD. Metro riders icily looked us up and down, left and right and did not break their stare even if our eyes met. Very disconcerting. (There would be nothing remarkable in our attire or demeanor or physical appearance to warrant this.) People on the street avoided eye contact so as not to have to speak as we approached politely with map in hand. If I paused a second trying to search for a word, the person jumped in swiftly to correct me or finish the sentence. A "I know your language but you struggle with mine" glare in the eye. There were a few helpful folks and for those exceptions we were most grateful--a French gentleman who teaches English at the local university and took any opportunity to speak to Americans and practice his (flawless) English, a few young people, service employees such as waiters (they are paid to be nice). Thankfully, nowhere else in Europe did we encounter the overall poor treatment we received in Paris. London and Prague were simply wonderful!!!Friendly, warm, welcoming, helpful people in those countries and we will surely return there one day.
Jane
IA USA Thu 07/15/2004
rude parisians
Well I have been going to Paris now for over twenty five years and have as yet to find one rude person .It maybe in how you approach people. If you are generally interested in their culture and life and realize that they have a wonderful sense of culture and place you should not have had a problem. In my vast experience I have found those travelers who say they have fouund rude people are usually people who demanded things that were usual in America and not usual in other places. (i.e. iced drinks) who failed to heed ricks advice about how to order food in other places...I once witnessed a very ugly american incident in a nice restaurant where the waiter (who spoke english )tried to tell the customer who insisted he wanted rare steak that perhaps he did not really want BLEu when the steak came the poor waiter was berated for some time by this nice texan gentleman. (by the way this same person insisted on ordering chardonnay and was quite put out that there were no california wines available. he was the real ugly american.. any how never had this problem nor has the spouse who does not speak french.
Susanne
Ca USA Thu 07/15/2004
Parisians
We just got back from Europe and we spent several days in Paris. We loved the city and the sights. Parisians on the other hand were nasty to us. One of us spoke French and we both were very careful to be polite and greet people in French and using French as much as possible. This did not seem to matter much as we were still treated rudely. Parisians are not very tolerant of anyone who is not French as we witnessed this treatment to other foreign tourists quite often. We loved our stays in Germany, Belgium, U.K. and Ireland very much and found people very friendly, helpful and generous. Needless to say we'll not be returning to Paris anytime soon.
Brad Townsend <email>
Portland, OR USA Tue 07/13/2004
Hotel Muguet and Segway tour
Paris lived up to expectations again! This time we stayed at Hotel Muguet in the 7th-very nice and well located for the Tour Maubourg Metro (the metro stop at Ecole Militaire is being fixed.) We had a blast on the Paris Segway tour. We did a night ride, and it was a real highlight. Very easy to ride and quite an experience as tour buses slowed to get our picture!
Gini <email>
Grand Ledge, MI USA Sun 07/11/2004
Guide books
We used Rick's Paris guide book & it was very helpful.Saved money by following his tours doing them ourselves. I also used the London book. It was great. Thanks Rick.
Rob
Racine, wi USA Sat 07/10/2004
90 euro taxis
The taxis fare (for two taxis for five people plus luggage) sounds correct.....depending on the size and amount of luggage the cabs charge for the luggage. I too think there is something wrong with the rant about the taxis and the hotel......perhaps these people were expecting Motel Six or Holiday Inn type of travel we have taken taxis many times to and from the airport and with several pieces of luggage have found the fare to be about 35 to 45 euros so the 90 euros for two taxis seems fare to me. If you stick with Parisian or Bleu companies you have the fares posted and these include extra for luggage. we have never had a problem with drivers and have always enjoyed talking to them.
Susanne
Fairfax, Ca USA Fri 07/09/2004
Hotel Royal Phare: Different room, different condition?
Gosh, my experience was completely different from Stan's at the Hotel Royal Phare. My room (no. 75) was spotlessly clean--and I am picky about these things, believe me. Stan may be right, that it's a good idea to see the room before you accept it.
Mary
San Luis Obispo, CA USA Tue 07/06/2004
Restrooms in Paris
As an insulin-dependent diabetic, clean and private restrooms are important for me to do my multiple blood tests and insulin injections every day. Paris presents one of the greatest challenges in this area of any large european city.
The public restrooms in Paris are frequently poor. In some there is no privacy and a diabetic is rightfully a bit scared what people may think as you inject yourself with medication. Others are just filthly. Last month the restrooms across from Notre Dame and across the river from the Eiffel Tower smelled so bad of raw sewage that even this old sewer expert could not tolerate it. Also often you have no place to sit down to do your medical work as there is just a hole in the ground a a place to anchor your feet.
My recommendation are restrooms in eateries. Almost every eatery in Paris has a restroom though they are often shared by both genders. They all have locking doors, toilets, and nice sink, etc. I recommend that if you do not stay to eat at least buy a beverage or give them a little money for your use of the facilites. You cannot go wrong with these important parts of a vacation infrastructure!
Stan Biles
blue river, or USA Sat 07/03/2004
Paris
I just returned from a month in Europe, my fifteenth back door trip using Rick's books as our guide. We had some great and not so great experiences in Paris.
First, we booked into the Royal Phare based on Rick's advice and the comments from posters here in February. It was a disaster. I do not recommend it or at least rooms 26 and 46. They were filthy. Human hair on the floor. The toenail clippings of previous guests on the floor, plaster hunks the size of Rick's book falling in the bathroom, water running in the toilet bowl all the time. If you stay here make certain to check the room before signing any paperwork.
We moved to a great hotel also recommended by Rick, Hotel Ares. It was perfect. I highly recommend it.
Second, do not walk Rue Cler on a Monday morning. 50% of the stores are closed. And as luck would have it all of the businesses recommended by Rick were closed. Wait till the afternoon.
Third, if you have a wide rolling bag you will have a tough time in some of the METRO stations. Some have one or two floors of stairs. Also, getting though the turnstiles can be tough especially if you cannot lift your bag over your head and pass it to someone on the other side.
Fourth, the L'Orange museum will be closed for at least another year. This was annonced just as we arrived. As they were doing the repairs they discovered some ancient artifacts and all work has been put on hold. There is a rumor that some of their collection may be sent to other Paris museums during the repair.
Fifth, I strongly recommend buying food at the fast food asian place on Rue Cler that is on Rick's map in the book. It is top notch and it is great to take it and a bottle of wine to the Eiffel Tower park and have a great picnic.
Sixth, beware of the Arab pickpocket gang that works under the Eiffle Tower. When you offer them money to buy one of their minature towers they grab your purse, or billfold, or fanny pack and start running. As the police chase them they toss your money to others like basketball players while the single policeman tries to catch the thief. I saw this happen twice in thirty minutes. Neither victium got their stuff back. Do not talk with them and do not offer to buy anything from them.
Seventh, I agree with a previous poster that the Profiterlos at Papa's near Rue Cler are the best in the city. I have had many of these great deserts. These are the best. Their food is good too. They are huge so plan to share and get a picture of them when they arrive.
Lastly,if you need to change stations or go from a train station to one of the airports Air France offers bus service every half hour for a very modest fee. It is worth the price just to see the driver handle a large bus in the Paris traffic.
stan biles
blue river, or USA Sat 07/03/2004
Reservation policy: Hotel Royal Phare
"DP" asked a question about reservation policies. In my experience, the Hotel Royal Phare in Paris is typical of small European hotels. You provide your credit card info to hold the room for you; there is no actual "deposit." Then when you arrive, they will ask you if you want to bill your stay to that credit card--it's not automatic. The Hotel Royal Phare's cancellation policy is 24 hours before arrival date. I have never had a problem making reservations by this method and have used email for a few years now. The Hotel Royal Phare was very responsive by email, too--I had a response in just a few hours.
Mary
San Luis Obispo, CA USA Fri 07/02/2004
Hotel Relais Bosquet
Hotel Relais Bosquet website (www.relaisbosquet.com) says they are offering WWII Veterans and their families a discount on room rates for 2004. I thought this was very kind and wanted people to know about it.
Susan
San Francisco, CA USA Thu 07/01/2004
Great Experience in France
I spent last week in France with six of my friends. We flew in to Paris and stayed two nights at the Hotel de Turenne. Then I stayed one night by myself at the Grand Hotel Leveque. Both hotels were recommended by my Rick Steves Paris 2004 guidebook. During the trip, we did many of the things that Rick Steves suggested: a boat ride on the Seine, the Rue Cler walk (picking up lunch supplies...and then we had a picnic in the gardens of Versailles), the self-guided tour of Versailles, the Cluny museum, the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Arc du Triomphe, part of the walk down the Champs Elysees, Chartres Cathedral, and Sainte-Chapelle. We also ate at two of the recommended restaurants: the one with "septieme" in its name on La Motte-Picquet, and its sister restaurant on the corner of Rue Cler and Rue de Champs de Mars (I apologize for not being able to recall the names).
We did not have a "miss" with any of Rick Steves's suggestions. We found them all to be solid recommendations. Also, I was very impressed with the way that people with a Rick Steves book would talk to strangers with Rick Steves books. I made a new friend on the train ride to Chartres, and I talked to a very nice family at Sainte-Chapelle…and all because we all saw each other reading Rick Steves guides. Unfortunately, the last part of our stay was in an area not covered by the guidebooks. But all in all, it was a great experience.
Traci <email>
Houston, Tx USA Thu 07/01/2004
Just got back
HI, Just got back from 10 days in Paris. It was great. A large part due to Rick's book. Thanks for the recommdation for the French grown strawberries. They were delicious. Also we were grateful to have a carte orange. As Rick mentioned in the book and I read on this message board, we were denied the first time we asked for one but asked at another ticket booth and received one.
The Metro system was great. It was so easy to travel anywhere in the city. We were surprised how expensive it was to eat in restaurants and buy food at shops. I think that was our biggest expense.FYI Using my ATM I took 100 euros out of my account and was charged 122.66 and a fee of 3.00 even though I used the bank recommended by B of A. I look forward to returning to Paris.
Jan
Truckee, CA USA Thu 07/01/2004
Hotel Lyon Mulhouse
Just returned from a stay in Paris. Stayed at the Hotel Lyon Mulhouse near the Bastile. It is a wonderful little hotel. No breakfast included, but rooms were roomy, clean and well done. Staff were all very helpful to us each time we had a question. Had a metro stop just outside the hotel, so had easy access to all of Paris. I would recommend the place to anyone!
Mary
WI USA Tue 06/29/2004
Paris was hot in early June
I was not expecting a hot Paris in early June. Being too hot to sleep without a/c, we routinely stayed up till one am. The Rue Cler area is okay but I would look around for other possibilities next time. Our nearest metro stop was closed and unfortunately we had to do far too much walking. I was surprised that it didn't get dark until after 10 o'clock. 3 days is not enough time to appreciate the city.
The Hotel de la Paix Tour Eiffel was on a quiet side street.The room was very tight for 4 people,had a nice bathroom and at times offered intimate views into neighboring apartments. We were lost in the Louvre(very big).French pastry shops are an art gallery in themselves and boy do they taste good. Cafe du Papa in the 7th near the Eiffel was delicious and affordable.
Tonye Usher <email>
Sulphur Springs, TX USA Tue 06/29/2004
Love those walking tours
This post is two years after the fact, but I want to add that I would not visit a major European city without a Rick Steve's guide (if one was available.) When my daughter & I visited Paris, we had the guidebook open most of the time. We took several of his walking tours and also used it for a guide through Versailles and several art museums. His walking tours got us off the beaten track and into some very interesting neighborhoods where a tour bus would have never gone. We especially enjoyed the Marais walk that starts at the Bastille.
While we mostly used the Metro for transportation, I would like to encourage everybody to take at least one taxi ride, especially at night. The lights of the city were magnificent!
Karen Herreid <email>
Austin, MN USA Mon 06/28/2004
Paris
Just returned from visiting Paris with my husband stationed in the military in Germany. Had a great time used many of Rick's suggestions.Hotel Turrene was ok with very small rooms but near many sights so worth it. Encountered some rude people some nice people just like anywhere. Have come to the realization that it's nice to visit other countries but the U.S.A. is truly the greatest country on earth! Anyway I speak some french which seemed to go over well with the natives and impress my husband ! Good luck in your travels.
Cbucholz
va beach , va USA Mon 06/28/2004
Queen size bed in Paris
Stayed at a wonderful hotel in Paris a couple of years ago called Hotel de France Invalides. Paid less than $90 then for a room with a queen size bed....yes there is such a thing in Europe. With today's exchange rate, the same room is going for about $113.00. Wonderful neighborhood. We could see the dome from Hotel de Invalides from our room and the Eiffel Tower lit up when we would stop for a last glass of wine at the local restaurant that we made our "home" for breakfast every morning for a week. You can find this gem of a hotel on the www.parishotel.com website.
Judy
Virginia Beach, VA USA Sun 06/27/2004
reservation policies
In general, hotels in Europe request your CC number because they will charge you for one night (or more) if you do not cancel the reservation far enough in advance.
Do you travel with reservations in the US? Same thing, although the US policies are typically more forgiving (eg., cancel by 4 pm) whereas many hotels in Europe have 3 day, 7 day, or even 2 week advance notice cancellation policies. In each case you should request in writing the hotel's cancellation policy - sometimes it is on the website, or they sometimes send it to you as an email attachment.
In one case I recall that a hotel in London actually charged my card in advance for the first night of a 2 night stay. One word of caution: be very cautious about sending your CC information in an unsecured email. It is better to give out your CC only over the phone, or do as I do, fax it to the hotel. Email is not a good idea for transmitting valuable info.
John Russell
Charlottesville, VA USA Fri 06/25/2004
Reservation Policy question
Question to anyone and possibly from Mary from SLO about booking via email: When you contacted the Royal Phare Hotel and provided them with your Visa/MC information to reserve your selected dates, was this just a reservation? Do you know whether your billig info was to hold your dates? Did you recall what their cancellation policy was? I had sent in an email to check on availability for my dates and since it was available, they asked for my card info to "guarantee my booking". I'm planning to ask them what that exactly means but would like to hear from others first of their experience so I know what I'm getting in to. (Yes, I am somewhat of an anal person :)
DP <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Fri 06/25/2004
Positive Paris experience
I just spent a week in Paris (a woman, age 43, traveling alone) and stayed at one of Rick's recommended hotels, the Hotel Royal Phare. What a quaint little place! My single room was 65 Euros/night, located on the courtyard side on the top (7th) floor--with a full-blown Eiffel Tower view. Everything was very clean, and the service was excellent. I had called ahead and told them I was arriving early, and my room was ready when I arrived at 10 am. It was also fully cleaned by noon every day. http://hotel-royalphare-paris.com. Great location, too, with just a few steps landing you at a metro stop. An ATM and public phone are right outside the front door.
The gentlemen at the front desk were charming and helpful, especially if one said a few "magic words" in French (can't do the proper accent marks here, but you get the idea!): 1. Excusez-moi de vous deranger (Excuse me for disturbing you); 2. Bonjour, Monsieur; 3. S'il vous plait; 4. Merci. It still amazes me how many Americans don't use those common courtesy phrases when in Paris. Can't tell you how many times I overhead Americans talking to hotel staff and store clerks quite rudely, without even trying to say these polite phrases, in French OR English.
One other note: I have visited Paris several times, most recently two years ago. I noticed a BIG change this time--everything is much cleaner. I saw men with green brooms sweeping the streets and hosing down the sidewalks every morning. The Metro was less grimy (and also less smelly!), and I saw far fewer beggars and panhandlers, as well--especially on the Metro cars (only saw a couple the entire week).
For women traveling alone: I am considered somewhat attractive, but everyone treated me respectfully. I had one man approach me, but I just ignored him. A couple gave me "le look," which I acknowledged with a polite nod but no verbal response (which might have seen as an invitation).
My advice: Speak those few phrases in French, even if you don't say them with a proper accent. The French really place a lot of value on acknowledging one another in this way, so follow their conventions and you'll be seen as a tourist who respects them. You'll also get better service if you dress up a bit, so do so, if possible.
Mary <email>
San Luis Obispo, CA USA Thu 06/24/2004
Excellent companion
My wife and I spend a wonderful week in Paris. Thanks to Rick Steves, we were guided through a most exciting journey (who would have thought to pack binoculars for Sainte-Chapelle) -- excellent suggestions. It was as if Rick was with us every step of the way.
We stayed in a small, 2 star, Latin Quarter hotel, Mont Blanc, which was understandably not on the recommended list. It was inexpensive with very small rooms and the street (rue de la Huchette) is noisy for sure, but it would be hard to beat the location. We walked nearly everywhere (2 or 3 blocks to Notre Dame) or via the metro only a half block away at St. Michel Square. It would not be for everyone -- but we loved the entire experience. The French were warm, friendly and welcoming. Thanks for the tips. Next trip: Northern Italy. I'm studying Rick's book now!
Robb Grimm <email>
Ft Lauderdale, FL USA Thu 06/24/2004
Carol and the La Tour Maubourg...
Well at least you have cleared up the matter regarding queen beds, and you also admit that you did not get the hotel from one of his books but from an anonymous poster on this forum, but still I scratch my head over your original complaint and the action you took to rectify the problem. Overseas travel is an adventure to be sure, but I am stunned that you forfeited $3000 in hotel payments simply because the hotel owner/manager was rude or was having a bad day. You would have saved yourself $3000 and a ton of grief if you had only purchased the current edition RS Paris Guide book for under $20.
I am no shill for Rick Steves, but I have been traveling to Europe for over 20 years and I always buy the current edition of his book(s) before each trip. I figure that I always learn something new that saves me far more than the cost of the new book in time or money saved, and I truly believe that his books have made every trip I have made to Europe more enjoyable. Thanks to Carol for fessin' up, but what an expensive lesson.
john
USA Wed 06/23/2004
La Tour Maubourg
Thanks for all your comments. Please, don't get me wrong about Paris. I love Paris and I would go back in a flash. I did make a mistake and said, I asked for a Queen size bed. I did mean to say, double bed. I also found this hotel on Rick Steves' web site not in one of his books. If he (owner) was not so rude to my family I might just let this whole idea of trying to get some if not all my money back. But I really think we arrived on a bad day for him because he was very rushed and annoyed at something. His hired help was hiding from him because he kept calling her to come to him.
I also did not realize the taxi's start there meters in advance and not start them when they pick you up. It seems to me that every time we travel out of the USA we learn something new. In the past when we have had a problem the situation usually gets corrected in one way or another. And then everyone is happy again. But not this one.......... I guess that's part of the adventure.
Carol
CA USA Wed 06/23/2004
Hotel Latour Maubourg
I also stayed at the Hotel Latour-Maubourg recently. We also naivly paid $90 Euros for the arranged Taxi (we won't make that mistake next time). I also felt the room looked much different from the pictures ...not as nice. There were subtle differences between what was promised on the website and what we encountered at the hotel. We found the hotel acceptable for us and really found the location and amenities to be good. The breakfast was terrific and we were treated with respect. I knew in advance of their no refund policy which I worried about but the hotel looked so great we took a chance. Although the rooms didn't live up to the standards I expected for the price (what hotel rooms ever do)they were enormous by European standards.
I also found this hotel through Rick Stevews but obviously not in his 2004 book. I found it on his website earlier this year under Paris hotels. I wouldn't recommend this hotel for everyone but I personally would return to it. I would caution people who want American style customer service or Ritz quality rooms to stay elsewhere. If you want privacy, a large room, in room wireless internet, wonderful croissonts at breakfast and convenience this might be the place for you. Every one has their own opinion and is entitled to share it. Although the hotel worked for me I wouldn't presume that another person's experience is any less valid than my own. I am sure bad things can be said about most hotels but for each person it is important the hotel meets your particular needs. I would warn people to skip the offered taxi though if you choose to stay there.
Marie <email>
USA Mon 06/21/2004
Hotel Royal Phare
I recently returned from a 3 week trip to Europe where we stayed exclusively in hotels recommended by Rick. They were all pleasant and well run except for the Hotel Royal Phare in Paris. To ensure that we would be able to get what we wanted, we made reservations for Paris nearly 2 months before we planned to arrive. We requested a twin room on the quiet courtyard side of the hotel (as Rick suggests), which was confirmed and reserved for us.
However, when we arrived at the hotel we found that we had not been given a twin room on the courtyard but one facing a busy street. When we discussed the problem (in fluent French) with the hotel staff we were informed that there are NO twin rooms on the courtyard side. At first they told us that there was nothing they could do, but eventually they offered to find us another hotel. Unfortunately the hotel they found for us was more expensive so we ended up staying at the Hotel Royal Phare anyway. Luckily it wasn't too hot while we were there so we slept with the window closed and only had to use ear plugs once (a Saturday night) as we are both deep sleepers. Just be warned that the Hotel Royal Phare doesn't have twin rooms on the courtyard side and that the street side noise can be very disturbing especially on weekends.
S. Lennox <email>
Richmond Hill, Ontario Canada Mon 06/21/2004
Paris General Comments
PARIS TOP LESSONS LEARNED HOTELS - If you have a hotel room without air conditioning in the summer, bring a portable fan and bug spray! I suggest splurge a little extra for air conditioning, it will be work it.
CITY TOUR BUSES - Some groups believe that buying a ticket for the city tour buses buys them "carte blanche" to act like idiots! Most individuals are calm, but every once in a while groups get "pack mentality" and start yelling, insulting and generally harassing passersby. Tourists from all countries MUST remember that they may be seen as representative of the people in their country. WHILE YOU ARE IN THE FOREIGN COUNTRY, PLEASE BE RESPECTFUL and open minded.
ANTI-AMERICANISM - I recently received an email circulated through the internet that suggested that Americans boycott French goods. GET OVER IT! France is the SECOND largest country that invests in the United States of America. The only uncomfortable moments I felt was when some people insisted on talking politics. I am a very patriotic American and am very proud of my country. But this "Anti-French" movement is simply what Rick Steve's said it was, propaganda blown out of proportion by the conservative media (Yes, I am a moderate republican!) But please remember when you visit France that you are the guest, please be respectful. You are on a vacation, not a political debate. Don't be like the Dixie Chicks!
TAXI CABS - HOLD ON!
AIR TRAVEL - With the perpetual losses suffered by air carriers, most carriers focus on customer service. Part of good customer service deals with "On Time" take off's and arrivals. But bureaucracy screws this one up too. An airplane is considered to take off "ON TIME" when they push off the gate. This rushes flight crews to hurry everyone to get seated and ready for take off. I have noticed on several major airlines that planes "push off" on time but then sit on the taxi way or are called back for minor repairs often. Don't be surprised if your plane pushes off, and then you wait two to three hours to actually "take off."
EIFFEL TOWER - At night, don't even try to catch a taxi cab! There is a taxi queue set up, but crowds of people generally mob around the cabs. The taxi cab drivers try to take who was first, but this rarely works. This can leave you feeling very stranded.
METRO - Use the metro system! It's the best bang for the buck and would take you places you ordinarily would not be able to go! Best wishes on your trip and I hope to see you home safe soon! Please feel free to email your experiences. Ofer John Perry, M.B.A. Fort Worth, Texas oferjperry@yahoo.com
Ofer John Perry <email>
Fort Worth, TX USA Sun 06/20/2004
Paris-Hotel Motte Picquet
We spent 2 nights in Paris at the Paris-Hotel Motte Picquet. I was concerned as there were conflicting reports on the hotel, but everything was fine. Claudia was very helpful with suggestions and directions. The location on Rue Cler was great. The only downside was it is a small hotel without air conditioning and we managed to arrive during an unexpected heat wave in early June. I would return without question during cooler weather. I understand they are considering adding air conditioning. We did not eat breakfast at the hotel as we preferred to experience the sidewalk cafes.
Scott Payne
Clearwater, FL USA Sun 06/20/2004
Paris Ease
I just returned from Paris last week! I fell in love with this beautiful city! This was my first European visit and the Parisians made us feel at home. We were there sadly when our former President passed, our waiter finding out we were Americans, offered his sympathy for the passing of our President. Everyone was helpful and very nice. Thank you Rick Steve's travel book. My copy traveled with me and I must say I saw at least a dozen travelers pulling out their copies. Thank you for making my trip easier and more organized. I can hardly wait to go see the rest of the world.
Jennifer <email>
Wells, ME USA Sun 06/20/2004
Cancellation fees
I did go to the website of the Hotel LaTour Maubourg after my post below. After getting into the setup for making reservations I did discover that they state they will charge for the entire stay if they do not receive notification a week (?or so) in advance of any cancellation. Wow. This really has not been my experience at all with French hotels, and I do mostly stay in Rick's recommended picks. Whenever I have made a cancellation (I usually have 3 rooms booked in my name as I travel with students/adults)it has been done easily and luckily, pleasantly. Sorry Carol, but I am sure many will learn from your unfortunate experience you were willing to share.
Laurie
USA Fri 06/18/2004
Hotel Valadon
Laurie, you raise an interesting point. For a 2003 trip to Paris, I initially used a 2001 copy of an RS Europe guidebook - I reserved rooms at the Hotel Valadon which was on the recommended list in the 2001 edition. Shortly thereafter, I purchased a 2003 RS Paris Guide and noticed that the Valadon was no longer listed. Frantically I contacted ETBD to find out why, and a staffer explained that because of numerous complaints lodged against the hotel by readers (undoubtedly your complaint was duly noted), the Valadon was no longer recommended (and perhaps the La Tour Maubourg was similarly dropped). I was able to cancel the reservation at Valadon and stayed elsewhere in Rue Cler.
Lessons learned: 1) one must use the most recently published RS guide book(s) to avoid this very situation, 2) RS and ETBD listen to and act upon readers' complaints (and recommendations, too), and 3) this online board is invaluable for trip planning for the most "current" information.
My "knock" against the original poster (RE the Maubourg, 90 euro taxis, queen beds, etc.), is that she obviously was using a dated edition of the RS guide because the hotel in question is no longer "recommended" in the current 2004 edition. Also I find her complaint that the beds were not queen sized "as promised" to be bogus, or at least unsupported by a look at the hotel's website which mentions nothing but twins and doubles. Furthermore, the problem she reported with the taxis ordered through the hotel could have been avoided with some basic research on the cost of transportation in Paris (as reported in the RS guide and in other guide books as well).
john
USA Fri 06/18/2004
stuck with cancellation policy
Laurie, how would one go about seeking reimbursement (due to deplorable, unsafe conditions) when charged a "cancellation" fee of two days? Have wrangled with the credit card company who is only too eager not to ruffle any merchant's feathers. Now will write to Conde Nast Ombudsman's column. I suggest that Carol do the same. Do you have any further ideas?
Fri 06/18/2004
Hotel LaTour Maubourg
Carol, About 3 years ago I stayed at the "sister" hotel to the Hotel LaTour Maubourg called the Valadon, run by the same couple. I wrote into this website with my list of complaints, and it had to be pulled because, according to Rick's "editor" the owners said they would sue (I contacted Rick's office to find out what was wrong with my post--concerns about the hotel).
Without going into that nightmare (I have been travelling every June to France for 24 yrs and always stay in the 7th), I hope that in your post below you are not saying that the Maubourg charged you for the entire 7 night stay---that is outrageous, even by European standards. I can see having to forfeit the 1st night, but no more than that. 24/48 hour notice is their policy as it is in this country. I would seek reimbursement if that is the case. Laurie
Laurie
USA Fri 06/18/2004
Hotel Royal Phare
We stayed at Hotel Royal Phare for 4 days. Rooms were small but nice and clean, and the staff was very friendly. I would say that the best part of the hotel was the convenient location. A metro stop and grocery was located directly outside the hotel entrance, and a post office and the Rue Cler markets were only a block away.
Will <email>
Vancouver, WA USA Thu 06/17/2004
Paris - TVA or VAT on a receipt
In response to the post below, a receipt in France will show the total amount paid, then it will break out the TVA (Taxe sur la Valeur Ajoutée), aka VAT (taxes) separately, usually about 19%. This has nothing to do with a service charge or tipping. The TVA/VAT was included in the total charge.
Alice K
FL USA Thu 06/17/2004
Paris Guidebook
My boyfriend and I used your Paris Guidebook during the month of May and June of this year and found it amazingly helpful. Over time we tore out the section we wanted to carry for the day. The book became heavy in our backpacks as we walked throughout the city. My recommendation is to visit the Rick Steve's site along print out data that was not updated in the book to bring along. Between the Paris Guidebook and the print outs from your website we truly feel that we covered the city.
Elaine Law <email>
Ca, CA USA Wed 06/16/2004
Hotel Minerve
We were pleased with the Hotel Minerve on 13 Rue des Ecoles. It has one of those infamous "coffin-like" elevators, and the rooms are small, but they are furnished with antiques, and the bathrooms are luxuriously modern. The staff went out of their way to be friendly and helpful. We especially liked the area. You'll see plenty of tourists, but the area doesn't really cater to them, and it's not nearly as crowded as the bustling St. Germain des Pres area several blocks to the west. It's an easy walk to Ile de la Cite and Ile St. Louis.
James and Marion Calloway <email>
Durham, NC USA Wed 06/16/2004
A Good Place to Stay
The suggested walks and information on sights were very good. I learned a few new things and I've been to Paris several times before. However, I suggest considering the area around Opera Garnier if you want a convenient, centrally-located place to stay. There are plenty of two and three star hotels in the area, many of which are on quiet sidestreets. (I walked down Rue Cler in the middle of the day and it was way too crowded for me - and it was off-season.) There are also a lot of restaurants of varying cuisines and price ranges.
Transportation to and from DeGaulle Airport couldn't be easier or cheaper - just take the Air France bus directly to the Opera (8.20 euros) and you're within a few blocks of your hotel. No transfers to a taxi or the Metro needed. If you want to take the Metro around town, there are three lines (plus RER A)serving the area. If you like to walk, you're within reasonable distance of many sights - The Lourve (15 minutes), Notre Dame (30 minutes), Eiffel Tower (45 minutes), Sacre Couer (30 minutes). There is no better way to see Paris than walking. I've stayed in several different areas of Paris and this is the best that I've found yet.
Paul
Las Vegas, NV USA Tue 06/15/2004
Paris
Just got back from Paris. Stayed at the Hotel Valadon in Rue Cler(which was great) Loved Victor and the refrigerator--for picnics! Ricks book was great for museums and restaurants, esp the Louvre & Carnavalet,and Orsay. Museum pass great, saved lines. Wouldn't go anywere without Rick's book. Metro was easy to use. Thanks
Lois M. Riddle <email>
Brentwood, CA USA Tue 06/15/2004
D-Day in France
Just returned from 2 weeks in France (6/1-6/12). It was the trip of a lifetime for this history buff as we celebrated the 60th Anniversary of D-Day. I planned the trip using Rick's book, but found out half way through the planning stage that I was using the 2003 edition...DOH! It was still a huge help.
Stayed in Paris for 3 days at the HOTEL DU PALAIS BOURBON. A wonderful place in the 7th district that was within walking distance of EVERYTHING. Never had any problems with pickpockets, homeless or anti-Americanism. I highly recommend the Batobus (boat taxi) that runs daily and stops at most of the major sites in Paris. We bought a 2 day pass. The Eiffel Tower is a must, even if you don't go up. Didn't have too much trouble with crowds at all. The Notre Dame will take your breath away.
We spent 1 night in Rouen. What an incredible town. Due to a rental car issue, we lost half a day and we really missed it at this point. Steve's walking tour of Rouen enriched our stay. I highly recommend this town as a day trip from Paris (only about an hour by car) or as an overnight stay. We stayed at the WONDERFUL Hôtel de La Cathédrale and wish we had planned 2 days instead of 1.
We then spent a week in and around Normandy at the La Bourdonnerie Villas in Vesly. They are run by a chap from England so booking via the internet was a breeze. It was like living in a fairytale. Normandy is filled with ancient towns and hamlets. The Anniversary celebrations in St. Mere Eglise and Utah Beach were astounding. Had a chance to speak to many veterans. I saw more US flags flying from French homes than I have ever seen in the States, even on July 4th! A visit to Omaha Beach and the Cemetary is a must.
Stayed our last night in Senlis at the Hostellerie De La Porte Bellon. Senlis is another wonderful ancient town that I wish we had made more time for. Just about 20 minutes from the airport.
Things to remember -you can't by any over the counter drugs (aspirin, rolaids etc.) without going to a pharmacist. I didn't know this, so stock your Tylenol and Imodium AD.
ATMs are everywhere, gas stations are not.
Ice and refrigeration are not something the French utilize much, so be prepared for room temp sodas and beers.
There is no self service at most stores. Don't pick up the fruit or cheese yourself if there are assistants available. They don't like it. They much prefer that you point at what you want and they will bag it for you. The exception is supermarkets.
I rented a car from AutoEurope and they were pretty good to deal with, although the first car I rented broke down in 10 minutes. They replaced it with a brand new Peugot (although we lost a good 4 hours)and I had smooth sailing. Gas isn't cheap!
CDG Airport...very inefficient. They processed all international passengers via 2 clerks sitting at 1 station. Security is tight.
Learn a few phrases. The French people will love you for it.
I still couldn't figure out the tipping situation as every bill had a total and then a 19.8% TVA figure listed seperately. At first I thought it was a VAT, then I thought it was a SUGGESTED tip. Still not sure, I should have asked.
Lastly, if you're driving, maps maps maps! I can't tell you how many times we got lost entering or leaving a town. Maybe it's just me but lost a good hour evertime we tried to leave or enter a town. Study your routes carefully. Bon Voyage and THANKS RICK!
Nick Provenzano <email>
Petaluma, CA USA Tue 06/15/2004
Paris taxi fare
Oh, one more thing...I also checked the current RS Paris guide RE taxi fares from CDG to central Paris - the book says that it will cost from 40 to 55 euros; my experience is that it is less, in the 30 to 35 euro range from CDG to Rue Cler, in rush hour on a weekday to boot. But nonetheless, the information in the RS Guidebook should have tipped off the unhappy poster as to what to expect to pay for a taxi, and it is certainly not 90 euros. Anytime you call for a taxi in Paris, they start the meter running from where they are when they leave to pick you up, so in effect the ranter paid a "round trip" fare for a "one way" ride for 2 taxis - Ouch.
john
USA Tue 06/15/2004
Hotel La Tour Maubourg...not listed!
I knew that something about the rant posting did not ring true. I went by the bookstore and thumbed through the 2004 RS Paris Guide, and...drumroll, please...this hotel is NOT listed in the book. Kind of funny, huh? I think that before posting such a rant on the RS website that one would at least get the facts straight.
john
USA Tue 06/15/2004
second guessing?
Well...she mentioned that the rooms looked nothing like what was shown online, so I assume that is where they got there info about queen beds, too - I looked at the website, and there is no mention of queen beds, just twins and doubles. So where did they get the idea there would be "queen" beds? Did the hotel tell them that the beds were queen sized? If so, then they have a legitimate beef.
She includes the 90 euro taxis in her complaint against the hotel which I find to be misplaced. I no longer have my trusty RS Paris guide, but I seem to recall that he provides estimates of what one can expect to pay for taxi vs. bus vs. train to get to the Rue Cler neighborhood, and it is nowhere near 90 euros per taxi. This falls under the heading of "caveat emptor" or something like that - they should have known what to expect to pay for transportation just from reading the RS books or any other guides for that matter.
I am curious: had these people ever been to Europe before? I ask, because, beds and bedrooms are smaller in Europe than in the US, and maybe they were just disappointed in the bed sizes. Were the beds "queen" sized at the second hotel? I doubt it - I have never seen a queen sized bed in my travels throughout Europe.
john
USA Tue 06/15/2004
Why second guess?
John, I guess since Carol was actually at the hotel, I would probably give her opinion more credibility than your surfing activity. Why did the hotel not offer to at least move the folks to rooms with at least double beds? &et, &et. Last year my husband and I went to Italy and had a bad hotel experience, we were actually there, and after posting our concerns on this website, I got very frustrated by people voicing their opinions that had no idea what we truly went through. That is probably why I am bit defencive for Carol. Carol - I hope your next trip to Paris goes better! The type of experience we both had can start your vacation off to a bad start, but like us, it sounds like you and the family rallied!
Cassandra
Westport, CT USA Tue 06/15/2004
Hotel la Tour Maubourg
Something about the rant against this hotel doesn't ring true. I checked their website and see no mention of "queen beds." The rooms are described as having twin or double beds for one or two persons. And the cost of 90 euros per taxi is absurdly high - I have made the taxi ride from CDG to this neighborhood several times and paid, on average, 32 euros for this trip (2 people with luggage). So maybe these folks did get ripped off on their taxi service, but why in the world would you "order" your taxis in advance from the hotel? - in Paris, when a taxi is "ordered" the meter starts running on the trip to the airport - that is the only thing I can figure that happened. Jeez, just walk out the door to the taxi line and catch a cab - pretty simple thing to do. I am not trying to pick a fight with this poster, just questioning their naivete, I guess.
john
USA Tue 06/15/2004
"Avoid" Hotel La Tour Maubourg
"We got took". I booked our hotel on line 6 months in advance from Rick Steves' list of hotels. We took our daughters and husband on there first trip to Paris as a family. La Tour Maubourg ordered us two taxis to pick us up at the airport. With 5 adults plus luggage we thought that was the way to get from CDG airport to the hotel. It cost us per taxi, 90 euro plus tip.
When we checked in, our so called queen size beds were... twin bed. Now, how do you fit to adults in a twin bed. The hotel manager/owner was rude and the hotel was dirty and messy. Our bed color was a bright orange and our bathroom color was a really bright green. Not at all what they show you on line. They showed you soft tan and brown tones. They had a bowl of apples on the counter where you check in and they were all wrinkled. I'd call them really old apples. That is not, how I wanted our family trip to begin. Everyone was very tired after traveling for 11 hours. The manager/owner did not offer to change our rooms to something close to what we expected. He kept saying our hotel is beautiful. Well, I'm sure his prescription on his glasses needed to be changed. He did not see what we saw.
We checked out and went to Hotel La Bourdonnais. They were super nice to us. We got three rooms for less money and it came with a smile. When we left after 7 days they ordered us a shuttle (what a concept) to get back to the airport. Mind you a shuttle that fit all of us, plus luggage. And it only cost us 90 euro for one shuttle, plus tip. We received no refund of any kind from Hotel La Tour Maubourg for the bother it caused my entire family. We had to pay the entire 7 days. Do the math, 3 rooms for 7 nights. Yep, $3,000 plus. We're retired and we saved for this trip. No matter where you travel, this should not happen to anyone.
Carol
Redwood city, Ca USA Mon 06/14/2004
PARIS Guidebook
I saved so much money in Paris using Rick's PARIS guidebook and more importantly I got to places where the 'real' Parisians live. I wouldn't go anywhere in Europe without Rick's travel book.
SHARON ZAJAC <email>
Irving, TX USA Sun 06/13/2004
Hotel de la Paix--Avoid this place!!!
Although this place is close to the Eiffel Tower and Rue Cler, do not let that influence you when booking accommodations in Paris! Stay ANYWHERE else!!! How did this place get a good recommendation--in any book?! My cab driver needed lengthy directions from his boss to even locate this obscure hotel. You will be required to pay the FULL amount of your stay upon walking in the door with no refunds when you decide you just have to leave. They cite a "cancellation policy" which exists only in their minds, at their convenience. Bed hard as rock, room ice cold in winter, rude and unhelpful employees, thin walls, maid barging in repeatedly and unannounced, pass-the-buck-employees and there is never a MANAGER available on premises or by phone to make decisons.... I could go on and on. I would advise to AVOID HOTEL DE LA PAIX, Eiffel Tower location, at all costs!!!
Jane
Dallas, TX USA Wed 06/09/2004
Paris
My family and I got back from a three day stay in Paris 18.5.04 thru 20.5.04. It was fantastic. Couldn't have done it without Rick's book. This was our first trip to Paris -- the people, the weather, the lack of crowds, the food and the hotel all combined to make the trip wonderful. We stayed at Hotel Eber Mars which was clean but a little noisy and Rick means it when he says they have a "coffin-like" elevator. But it was very near to the Eiffel Tower and Napolean's tomb.
We ate at the Bistro Bosquet and my husband had the duck which he said was the best he had ever eaten. We also ate at at several places on Rue Cler - all wonderful. I would definitely recommend that people go to the neighborhood bakeries for breakfast as well as the sandwiches for lunch. We did that several times and had picnics in the heart of Paris (what a wonderful memory). Used Rick's guide to the Louvre Museum (all very helpful and knowledgeable) Again, thanks Rick for all the info. Linda
Linda
Winston-Salem, NC USA Tue 06/08/2004
Day trip from Paris
A great day/day-trip from Paris can be as follows: Spend a few hours at the d'Orsay museum. Then catch the RER train to Versailles for the afternoon. Bring your luggage (hopefully in backpack form) and stow it at the Versailles Palace baggage check (inside entry point A).
After touring Versailles, go to the other train station in Versailles, Chantier, which isn't more than a 15 minute walk, and catch a train to Chartres where you spend the night. See the cathedral in the morning, then catch a return train back to Paris.
Very easy to make the connections, and Chartres is a peaceful night stay after the bustle of Paris.
Glenn
Longmont, CO USA Mon 06/07/2004
Grand Hotel du Loiret
I found this hotel in Rick's guidebook. What a wonderful liitle hotel! I felt that Rick downplays it in the guidebook. We had a small but comfortable room with a balcony and terrific view of the streets below. The shared bathroom was one floor below and we never had a problem with that. The price and location were the best parts. A 5 minute walk from the Hotel de Ville and metro stop. The Marais neighborhood in which it's located is clean with lots of cute shops. There is very little information on this place on the web. The one report I saw states that it was inexpensive because there wasn't an elevator. Not true ! The hotel does have one. I thought this hotel was great (and you wouldn't think you'd hear that after reading Rick's description). I would definitely recommend it.
Kelly
Philadelphia, USA Fri 06/04/2004
Hotel Champ du Mars
We stayed here a few weeks ago. Great location and lovely rooms, but WHAT is that man doing in hotel management? The man who works days at the front desk is just flat out rude! I actually think he is one of the owners. As long as you don't need to talk to him (which is difficult since you have to get the key from him) the hotel is great.
Carol
Nashville, TN USA Wed 06/02/2004
Paris 2004
We just returned from a week in Paris and Rick's "Paris 2004" was our expert guide. Stayed at the Hotel Relais Bosquet which was spacious (3 of us), charming and Gerard and staff were friendly and helpful. Neighborhood is quiet, shops and dining choices plentiful.
We tried LaVarange (would not without Rick's book) and it was terrific! Great lobster bisque and the chocolate cake was devine. Everyone in the place had the book or were "sent by Rick" - Phillipe said he had to do things right and stay in "good with Rick Steves" - fun time. The Bistro Bosquet near the hotel has wonderful onion soup - the best we had in Paris.
Paris in the spring with everything blooming was spectacular and trip to Giverny never to be forgotten. The tips from the book on pickpockets were excellent and we used them as we encountered both the roving little boys and the "inspector" wanting to see our ticket - a "let me see your ID" quickly moved him on. It was not a problem, just be on the lookout. The trip was our first without a tour goup and we loved being on our own and felt quite comfortably going throughout the city. Rick's guidebook and good maps were the key. Loved Paris!! Can't wait to return.
Perry
Arlington, TX USA Tue 06/01/2004
sorry! I don't know how my Rome comments got put under the Paris section!
Melinda
USA Tue 06/01/2004
Rome
All the things written about Residenza Cellini are completely true. Of our two week trip to Italy, this was our favorite hotel. My husband was happy just with the fact that they provided us with plush towels. Just a little helpful hint - it's actually only on the third floor of the building (there's an elevator.) There is actually another hotel on the 2nd floor among other businesses. We didn't know this, but luckily another guest showed us the way.
We took the Scala Reale tour of the 1. Forum/Coliseum 2. Vatican. Our first tour guide was an Italian Professor of Architecture. His English was fine, but he was a bit dull in the beginning. My husband and I both thought we were back in college listening to one of our professor's lecture. He did warm up a bit after a while, though. Also, we had signed up with a different tour guide (an American) but got this one. However, no one notified us, and we were standing around waiting for the American for about 15 minutes before realizing that the Italian was our tour guide.
On the other hand, our tour guide for the Vatican was wonderful. She was very informative and quite lively. We really enjoyed taking the tour from her. She does private tours as well (I think separate from SR.) If anyone is interested, please contact me.
Melinda
Palo Alto, CA USA Tue 06/01/2004
Poverty in Paris
Street people are multiplying, especially in the Rue Cler area. Panhandling can be agressive, just like at home.
Swan
Calistoga, CA USA Sat 05/22/2004
Paris hotels and restaurants
I went to Paris in March. I stayed in Rue Cler and felt the french poodle senation Rick talks about. I stayed at the amazingly convenient Hotel Royal Phare right outside the subway station and two blocks from my coffee cafe I adopted. Excellent access to the Irish Pub O'Briens pub. Great restaurants of Rue Cler in in Rick's mentions of Au Petit Tonneau, le petit troquet and I went to La Sancerre for wine and awesome cheese. Every night could see Eiffel Tower. Also ate in Le Tastevin on Ile St Louis. Quiet and romantic. And of course I loved Ricks walks.
Carolyn
Naples, Italy Thu 05/20/2004
Musee Guimet
Once you get tired of Western art in Paris, check out the Asian collection at the Musee Guimet. I spent nearly a whole day there. It has a great Cambodian collection including an intact pediment from exquisite Banteay Srei. If you can´t get to Angkor Wat (easier these days) this will give you a taste, in air-conditioned comfort. The Chinese collection is comprehensive, starting with Neolithic pots and jade - don´t miss two arresting Han horse heads or the items from the Mogoa caves at Dunhuang. Also look out for three remarkable pieces from Burma, Moghul drawings in the library rotunda and the Gandhara section.
The 5.50 admission includes an audio guide. Free toilets and pricey restaurant in the basement - walk down Ave. Pres. Wilson to Alma Marceau for Bert´s Contemporary Cafe with cheaper eats and lots of locals. Mo. Iena, www.museeguimet.fr
Kathy <email>
Cary, NC USA Thu 05/20/2004
Des Nation Saint Germain Hotel
Hey There Has anyone stayed at Des Nations Saint Germain Hotel address is 54 Rue Mangue in Paris France? Would you recommend this hotel? Why /Why not??? Thanks
Wendy
USA Thu 05/20/2004
Hotelink - Where do I locate that?
Marge from San Francisco mentioned that Hotelink got her to her hotel inexpensively and easily. What is this and where do I locate it? I'll be arriving at CDG airport.
Kathy K.
Cary, NC USA Wed 05/19/2004
Southwest of France
Dear Rick, I would like to recommend a really nice bed and breakfast in Laserre, a very small village in Southwestern France near Lembaye and the Chateau Madiran Winery. Located about 100 kms. North of the Spanish border, and 30 kms. North of the regional capital of Pau, one can see the Pyrenees on clear days. It is operated by its owners Erick and Dominique Laroze. It is a modernized old two-story house and country in called "Le Tire Bouchon". Dominique has a very modern kitchen and is an excellent cook and there seem to be an interesting group of restaurant patrons there nearly every night. The email address is edlaroze@clubinternet.fr. The telephone number is 011-3-35-59-68-52-39. Sincerely, Richard Eldridge
Richard Eldridge
Miami, FL USA Tue 05/18/2004
Will the REAL Hotel Jeanne D'Arc please stand up!
Boy did we feel stupid. We booked our stay at the wrong Hotel Jeanne D'Arc in Paris. We thought we had booked the one Rick mentions in his guide book on Paris in the Marais but we had not and ended up in a really dumpy hotel that was less expensive by about 20 euros, but was really nasty and we hated the location. Had I used the website in Rick's book, we would have been fine, but I simply did a Google search and that hotel popped up. And I thought they were offering some sort of promotion because the price was less than in Rick's book. Luckily the real Jeanne D'Arc had rooms available the last four days of our stay and we pulled up stakes after two days in a room that smelled of tobacco and worse and moved to where we really belonged. Live and learn!
JoEllen
Flint, MI USA Mon 05/17/2004
Eurostar to Paris tip
For those taking the Eurostar from London (Waterloo) to Paris, here's a tip. You can buy museum passes (highly recommended), and Metro passes in the Eurostar waiting area after you have checked in. I'm not sure how much you lose on the exchange rate - if anything - I didn't do the math, but it's a nice convienience while you are waiting for the train. You are supposed to check in at least a half hour early anyway, so it saves you some time in Gare du Nord on the other end. They are for sale at the information desk at the far end of the waiting area. Also, don't be afraid to ride the Bus. Paris has to have just about the best system in the world, and it would be a shame to ride the metro everywhere and miss out on the beauty of Paris up above. Almost every bus and bus stop has a map that shows you the entire route for each bus, and each stop is clearly marked. If you are staying in the Rue Cler, Rick's #69 tour is great up to the Marais, and #92 up to L'Arc is a good one as well. Much easier than switching trains all the time anyway.
Ron
Woodinvile, Wa USA Sat 05/15/2004
paris tips
just got back! was it ever cold!Advice..take the RER when you can in town it is faster has more room..bought the carte orange at the nord station and was I ever glad I did because I made a few mistakes here and there on the metro and it was no problem. the metro was great!there was a whole band in the station.. dont miss it!got a wheelchair at the d'orsay and it was a pleasure. Rick please give advice to the handicapped!! the louvre was terrible and not acess friendly. after wasting two precious hours and getting no assistance we finally figured out the floors below (0 and 1) are too difficult for a chair but it works fine in the second for the paintings as it is all flat. Wish we had known. Rick please give some better advice about the train to Versaille as we still got on the wrong one.yes we asked .went to the tower at dusk no line... if you go to the loire rent a car at the gard de lyon near the parameter however you must rent for three days and there are tolls (not mentioned in the book) the book makes it sound like there are no trains to Chenenceax only one bus a day but we saw the train so maybe it doesnt stop there?could have saved a bundle on that
greg
fl USA Wed 05/12/2004
First Paris Trip
We just returned from our first trip to Paris (& London & Bruges). It was wonderful even though most days were cold and overcast or rainy. We stayed at the Hotel Muguet and really liked it except for noises (but we found earplugs to be necessary at all of our European hotels). We got pastries & fresh fruit every morning from the Rue Cler and that was great. Be sure and walk across the Seine to the Troccadero area to take pictures of the Eiffell Tower. Just beautiful. And at nights with the lights--wow! We did Rick's Historic Paris Walk and enjoyed Notre Dame (climb the stairs to gargoyle level!) and Saint Chapelle. We loved the "fast food" in the Latin Quarter across the Seine from Notre Dame. The gyros were incredible and cheap!
We took the train to Versailles--very easy and only 5 euros round trip. The palace, gardens, and outer buildings were amazing except they are replacing the flook in the Hall of Mirros and most of that room was torn up! Be sure and take the petit tram to the Petit & Grand Trianon & Grand Canal (unless you want to walk 30-40 minutes to get there and then walk that far back). We actually ate lunch at the McDonald's at Versailles just for the experience!
If you are a coffee addict, be prepared for very small cups (about 4 oz.) and no refills. Even the cafe americano were very small.
The Louvre is amazing and too huge to take in. I recommend Rick's tour and then add additional parts that you are interested in. We enjoyed the look at Napolean's apartments in the Richileau wing. I liked the D'Orsay better and it was easier to take in!
We went to the American Church in Paris and enjoyed the service and they were very helpful to make recommendations. There are people available at the church in the afternoons (Tues-Thurs) to help Americans with questions.
Napolean's tomb was interesting but we really enjoyed the WWII museum behind the tomb area. The Montmarte area was interesting and Sacre Couer is beautiful and has a great view of Paris from the front steps. The metro systems worked very well and a carnet of tickets (10 euros--10 tickets) was a great value. WARNING: If you arrive on the train at Gare de Nord, be aware of "helpful" Frenchmen by the ticket machines. We had to keep moving to get away from them and finally found a machine that had an English option which made purchasing the tickets quite easy!
We enjoyed two restaurants from Rick's book: La Varangue was good and Phillipe was fun and Cafe du Marche was good for the price. We especially enjoyed the crepes, pastries, and excellent breads from sidewalk stands and small shops.
Paris was a great experience and almost everyone was very helpful and put up with our struggling French. We were thrilled to be there on V-E Day and witness a big parade down the Champs Elysees and see all the fresh flowers at all the monuments to WWII. It's a lovely city and we are grateful for the experience.
J Abbott
Siloam Springs, AR USA Wed 05/12/2004
Taxi versus Bus to/from CDG Airport
If you are traveling via air to Paris with 2-4 others, we found that a taxi was cheaper transportation to/from Charles de Gaulle than the shuttle busses that run from 15-20 Euros per person. Although guide books warn that taxi to CDG costs 60 Euros, we (family of three) paid 47 Euros and 39 Euros, respectively, into Paris at midnight, and from Paris to airport mid-morning on a busy weekday. Shuttle bus would have cost slightly more and involved picking up other passengers at other hotels.
Jean-Marie Simon <email>
Seville, USA Sun 05/09/2004
Paris away from Rue Cler
I still think walking tours of left bank are great unlike rick. We rented a wonderful apt on rue xavier privas and it was a great little street. the owner of the greek restaurant often came across the street to open my door for me when i had packages in both hands, we also found that getting away to other mmarket streets gives one a sense of the real paris. one of the best street markets is on Place Maubert on left bank and for a real treat at one of the oldest markets try the recently reopened Enfants Rouge on right bank which also has a fab wine bar within. We like rue de buci and think that the Bar Du Marche there is one of the best people watching cafes in paris as is the Cafe De La Marie in Pl St Sulpice. In fact the best area we like for cafes is around Odeon...au petite suisse le Rotand, The Horses Tavern and our best meal was at La Meditterane....130 with a great montrachet wine... some other great restaurants Chex Maitre Paul, Le Reminet, and Fish la Boissonne, and we also liked Paul on Rue De Buci for omelets and wonderful bakery items. for great tarts and chocolates there is Gerald Mulot in same area.
For night life one cannot beat a seat at Cafe Mabillion haunt of lots of hip young things....great dj mixes... if one gets out of the Rue Cler area and just walks around you can see the real paris. we met lots of parisians who were always glad to try out there english on us (I do speak french but my spouse doesnt) we travel often to paris now and use Zagat and Patricia Wells and Cheap Eats to find our restaurants. Another great area is on right bank around Marche Algerie and The area around Oberkampf metro Astier was a wonderful place which has a great cheese platter.
Susanne
Fairfax, Ca USA Sat 05/08/2004
Hotel Relais Bosquet
Stayed at the Hotel Relais Bosquet by Rue Cler in April for 3 days and it was lovely. Big rooms, english speaking staff, fabulous electric blinds and a view of the Eiffel Tower-where we got engaged our first day there! The location on a quiet street only half a block from Rue Cler was the best. Thanks Rick!!
Walt
Danville, Ca USA Fri 05/07/2004
Getting a carnet
Getting a carnet is easy - just go up to the person in the ticket booth and ask - that is how you practice your French and begin the process of "blending in"! Don't worry if your French is bad - they'll know what you asking for, and the ticket clerk when I did it thanked me in English!
Mark <email>
Cleveland, OH USA Tue 04/27/2004
Paris guidebooks
I loved his paris guidebooks.
Shane
Tucson, AZ USA Mon 04/26/2004
In Love with Paris
During our visit to Paris from 4/13 to 4/15, we found everything to run as smooth as silk, with one exception. Upon arrival via the Eurostar train from London to Paris, acquiring a carnet of Metro tickets was quite an undertaking. If you are using a debit or credit card to purchase the tickets, be patient, as it takes awhile for the machine to process the request. Also, we discovered that pickpockets are very aware that there is definite confusion for foreigners upon arrival at Gare du Nord. It may behoove the French transportation system to make their transportation hubs a bit more user friendly (big signs), so predicaments can be avoided. Once you get the tickets for the Metro, it is the most fun underground experience ever! Even the panhandlers are classy! You will be serenaded by a variety of accordian players, singers, and puppeteers! What a blast! One other recommendation for Americans--I believe that in light of our current politics, it becomes a duty to be an American ambassador, and offer the highest quality representation for our country. The French are very proud of their culture and of their language. Rightfully so. If you don't know any French, learn some, and focus on the polite phrases, like hello, thank you and please. It will endear them to you, they will NOT make fun of you, and your trip will be all the richer for it. One of the best moments was to hear a US southerner say "merci" like "mercy" but he tried!!! Viva la France!
Terry <email>
Rochester, NY USA Mon 04/26/2004
Paris
As usual,Steve's book was very helpful and practical. Both the Carte Orange and Museum pass as recommended saved time and money. The posted weekly Carte Orange price is higher than listed in the book. In the Louvre, the Oriental Antiquities are arranged a bit differently than noted in the book. (i.e. Law Codex of Hammurabi is not in Salle 4, but 3. Keep up the great work! Priscilla St. Paul Mn
priscilla hedberg
st paul, mn USA Sun 04/25/2004
Paris Metro
Never say never.. I had my wallet lifted out of my back-pack/purse on the Paris Metro. I had no clue, and was sure that I was safe with it zipped into a compartment that was against my back. The monetary loss wasn't great, but the aggravation took up a precious afternoon. LISTEN TO RICK and just assume that anything other than a moneybelt WILL BE STOLEN. Paris was great: went to the "Musee des artes and culture populaire": wonderful time on the edge of the Bois de Bologne.. lovely stroll and really fascinating museum.
Patty
St Paul, MN USA Sun 04/25/2004
I love Paris
We just came back from 5 days to Paris (and 4 days in Belgium). I loved Paris and did not want to leave. We stayed at the Beaugency and it was small (we were 3 people in the room, and they added a cot for our daughter), not much room to move, but we spent only sleeping hours in the hotel. Breakfast was included for us, but I don't think that is a given. NOt only RS people there, we met people from Switzerland, England and Germany there. Lots of kindness was shown us by the Parisians. They helped out at the metro when our tickets wouldn't go in (it turns out that you got to ride for free then), and at the post office. Of course the toilet workers were nasty, comes with the territory.:) We bought the five day museum pass and could just skip the lines. I don't think we saved money, but we sure saved time. You cannot skip the line to the tower at Notre Dame, unfortunately, so we waited for an hour to climb up. It was worth it to see the gargoyels up close and personal. We followed several of Rick's walks and enjoyed them. It is a little bit like "Where is Waldo" to find what he is pointing out. We climbed the Arc de Triumph, Eiffel tower to 2nd story (it's like climbing an erector set), besides Notre Dame. However, the rest of Paris is so flat, so those were our only "hills". We took several tours with the Fat tire bike co (AKA Mike's bike tours). Fun to ride around, met nice people, saw a lot, but the guides are American college students, not too much detail, if you are into history like I am. However, it was good enough for going back for more. The night tour was the best, it included the boat ride on the Seine with wine. The Versailles tour took you to the end of the canal, the more un-touristy part of Versailles, before you entered the castle and was trampled by the other tourists. Food in Paris is out of this world. We dined well and often. We ended up using Rick's recommendations every night. Our best meal was at La Fontaine de Mars, nice, wonderfully delicius and pricey ($170 for 3). We were told that Parisians want to eat at 8:30, so we went out for dinner at 8, to secure a table. By 9 it was full, and we got to eat with the locals. I must add that we found that these restaurants had lots of French people, or tourists from other countries besides the US. We loved the "food court" in the Louvre. Pauls had fab. pies (quiche), with dessert pie and a drink for 10 euros. 5 days was way too short to see and do everything in Paris. I must go back, and would do that in a heart beat.
Greta Larsson
Milwaukee, WI USA Fri 04/23/2004
Paris Hotel & Walk from guide book
We stayed at the Hotel Des Grands Hommes in Paris and LOVED it! It was quiet, very plush, great location and excellent price (about $150 USD for two people). I will stay there every time I visit Paris from now on! Also loved the Sacre Couer/Montmartre walk portion of the Paris guidebook, very scenic and interesting, plus we were lucky to be visiting on a sunny, warm day and got great photo's...
Kate Sackett
Seattke, WA USA Fri 04/23/2004
bike path in Giverny
Just back from France. THere's a nice bike path between Giverny and Vernon. I saw many people riding on it. It's kinda a long way to walk, though I saw people doing it. Giverny is marvelous already this spring. If you have a car, do try to get up to Rouen, which I found a charming town, a REAL town, not for tourists so much. Found Honfleur too touristy for my taste, but Bayeux really a neat place, even apart from the tapestries. And RIck's right: stay over on Mont St-Michel if you can. Wonderful to see the tide come in as the tourists go out!
Clare <email>
Barrington, RI USA Fri 04/23/2004
Hotel Leveque
Like everyone else posting here, I loved staying in the Hotel Leveque last week. I had been worried about the "market" being the kind that had loud trucks at 3 a.m. but they didn't come till seven! The hotel room is as nicely appointed as I've seen in this price range - with reading lamps and actual places to put your stuff! And of course everyone carrying that little blue book! To be in Paris in April really IS special. Thanks, Rick.
Clare <email>
Barrington, RI USA Fri 04/23/2004
Biking to Giverny
The Paris guidebook, overall, was great. However, I'd like to comment on the section on visiting Monet's house in Giverny. The book says that you can rent bikes in the town of Vernon, and then ride on a bike path the 3 miles or so to the house. My friend and I did this, but there is nothing resembling a bike path along this route! Unless you ride on the road itself (busy with cars and buses going 70 km/hr), you have to ride on a series of gravelly sidewalks and grassy shoulders. That means you have to go up and down curbs and avoid street signs and other hazards the whole way. Unless you're very comfortable with your cycling skills, it's best to take the bus.
C.K. Wu <email>
Alexandria, VA USA Fri 04/23/2004
Travel to Paris
We also just returned from Spring Break in Paris. Rick's tip on buying a museum pass was great! We saved money and bypassed a lot of long lines. The Musee D'Orsay was the most crowded so it is probably a good idea to plan to go at an off hour. The Picasso museum was also great and it gives you an opportunity to explore the Marais area as well as the museum.
One thing we did want to alert people to is that if you want to go up to see the gargoyles at Notre Dame you have to get there before 5PM . They aren't letting people go up after that. The Metro is still the best way to get around and we felt very safe using it . The best tip we got from Rick is to go to Vaux le Vicomte which is outside of Paris. Absolutely wonderful! It takes a little work to get there, metro to train to taxi, but it is worth it! Thanks Rick!-Wendy , Seattle
Wendy Cawthon
Seattle, WA USA 04/22/04
Paris by Eurostar
We took our two girls, ages 11 and 15, to London and Paris for spring break last week. We loved the Eurostar and did not experience any of the problems mentioned by the writer below; perhaps because we did not use the Metro to get to or from Gare du Nord. Since there were 4 of us, plus baggage, it was convenient and cost-effective to take a taxi to our apartment in the Rue Cler area. (Despite the "rule" that French taxis won't carry 4 people, you can always find one if you ask). We arrived back at Gare du Nord well before the departure of our train, and stowed our bags in the lockers and went out for Rick's walk around Montmartre---and there we made our mistake. I know Rick warns that the area between the Moulin Rouge and Place Pigalle is the "den mother of iniquity", but that did not adequately prepare us for block after block of porn shops, peep shows, and graphic multi-X displays on both sides of the street. It was no place for teenagers, but we were hurrying back to our train and it was the most direct route. Had we known, however, we would have chosen a different way back to the station.
Other thoughts---we were very glad we rented an apartment for our 5 -day stay. After a first night's mediocre, overpriced meal (at Bistrot du Papa), we made dinner the next 3 nights. The girls really enjoyed the experience of shopping at each shop on Rue Cler. Beginning at the produce place at the top of the lane for vegetables and wonderful strawberries, and then proceeding to the wine shop, cheese shop, either the rotisserie chicken place or the Vietnamese deli (potstickers!!!), grocery store for Orangina and milk, and ending up at the boulangerie for the world's best bread (try the flute ancienne). Our last night we ate at L'Auberge du Champs du Mars and had a nice prix fixe meal, 3 courses for 17 euros each. The food was good and the service and atmosphere were pleasant. The waitress was quite surprised when I ordered my steak "bleu" (rare).
e got a 3-day museum pass (great for avoiding entrance lines) and went to the Musee d'Orsay, the Louve, and Versailles. The girls' favorite of all were the Petit and the Grand Trianon; they were less crowded than the main palace and furnished, so you could actually visualize the "life styles of the rich and famous". We also enjoyed the Eiffel Tower, particularly in the evening. There is no line for climbing the steps if you go after dinner. All in all, it was a great trip, and we especially enjoyed the Rue Cler neighborhood experience.
Lura <email>
Seattle, WA USA 04/21/04
Paris Facts
I just came back from a wonderful long weekend in Paris. I highly recommend the following tips from Rick. Paris Airport Service was waiting to quickly take us to our hotel. Stayed at Hotel de l'Alma on 32 rue de l'Exposition for 79 euro per night with breakfast. You get that rate if you say found out about it in Rick's book. Two of our four nights we ate at Casa di Sergio, just down rue de l'Exposition. My husband enjoyed the prix fix dinner and as a very picky eater, I described to Sergio what I do eat and his chef prepared a wonderful pasta dish. After dinner we would stroll through the Champ du Mars park and enjoy the spectacular Eiffel Tower and the hourly "special" light show. I've been to Paris many times and had never stayed in the Rue Cler neighborhood. Now, I would never consider staying anywhere but the Rue Cler.
Theresa
Katy, TX USA 04/20/04
Hotelink
Hotelink was fantastic. They got us from the airport to our hotel and back again with no hassle. Very inexpensive!
Marge
San Francisco, CA USA 04/20/04
Eurostar
The Eurostar in London is great. It is located in the heart of London and the lounge is wonderful. A different story in Paris however. You arrive in a dingy station to find yourself surrounded by gypsies. Then you have to find the correct subway that will get you to Paris. After standing in the subway, being pushed and shoved and changing trains in a very questionable area we finally arrived in Paris. Going back was even worse. After again standing in a subway for an hour's ride we could not wait to check into the Eurostar waiting area at Gare du Nord. Imagine our surprise when we arrived and found we could not check in until an hour before our train was to depart. There was no where to sit unless you wanted to go into one of the restaurants. Many people ended up paying too much for too little food or just sitting on the floor for several hours. We were in car 18. Groups of 4 seats face one another and there is absolutely no leg room. On our trip to Paris we never saw one attendant, on the way back to London we actually saw one. Their attention is focused completely on the first class passengers. Rick-find us a way to get to Paris from the Eurostar!!
Phil
NYC, NY USA 04/20/04
The Pantheon in Paris
Rick's recommendations for Paris sights were generally very good except that he and other guide books discourage visiting the Pantheon. I thought this was one of the best things I saw during my visit last week and I highly recommend it to anyone with an interest in history. In the cellar of the Pantheon they have all the famous frenchmen stored away, starting with Voltaire and Rousseau and then including Victor Hugo, Emile Zola, Jean Jaures, Madame Curie, etc. and continuing to the present. It is almost on a par with Westminster Abbey or the church in Florence that has Michaelangelo and Gallileo in the floor. Because guidebooks don't recommend the Pantheon, it is not at all crowded. The crypts are well organized with signs (albeit in French) describing each famous person and they provide you with a concise brochure in English that explains everything clearly. The visit provides an insight into whom the French people regard as important or heroic patrons of their society. If you time it right you can get a free tour to the top of the building and have a great view of the Eiffel Tower and Luxembourg Gardens and avoid the long line at the Notre Dame or other high vantage points. Ignore Steve's advise and go see this!!!
Barry Bochner
Alameda, CA USA 04/18/04
Hotel Louvre Forum
Hôtel Louvre Forum, 25 rue du Bouloi 75001 PARIS http://www.paris-hotel-louvre-forum.com/index.html Booked: direct Cost: 75 euros (US$92.59), breakfast 9 euros
Location
About 10 minute walk to the Louvre, 6 minutes to Beaubourg, 5 minutes to Les Halles Metro, 2 minutes to bus stop on Rue de Louvre.
Facilities
Rooms are small but for a single I had a double bed. The bathroom is modern. There is air-conditioning.
Food
Breakfast is in the cellar which is air-conditioned and bright. Three kinds of cold cuts and three kinds of cheese. Hard-boiled eggs. Of course croissants and baguette. Coffee is made when you ask for it. I suggest on Tuesdays through Friday you skip the breakfast at the hotel and go on Rue Coquillière where at the bars coffee is 1 euro and croissants are 1.1 euros. There are also several small markets and a patisserie on Rue Coquillière. These places are NOT open Saturday, Sunday and Monday!
Nearby
The famous kitchenware store E. Dehillerin is across the street. The famous wine bar A la Cloche des Halles is also across the street. Au Pied de Cochon, open all-night, is about one block away. Laveries Lincoln, a laundromat open 7 to 7 seven days a week is between No. 15 and No. 17 on Rue Herold, 2 minute walk. Wash is 3 euros, 35 minutes. Dryers are American made and 1 euro for 20 minutes.
Bill
South Pasadena, CA USA 04/18/04
Eating in Paris
After returning from my third trip to Paris, I am still amazed by this beautiful city. We stayed at the Royal Phare hotel. It was perfect. The only problem with the Rick Steves book was that it was so popular some of the places were filled with fans. We followed his book but chance some of the places that don't specifically say speak english(phillip at La varangue). THe best meals we had we found by following the lunch crowds. If there was a line of french people waiting, we figured it must be good. Risk getting away from the book some. It is just a guide....a very very good guide but not a requirement.
B
Bethlehem, GA USA 04/12/04
Observations from our 1st Trip
Just a few notes, as we have just returned from our 1st trip to Rome: Santa Maria Maggiore is also currently closed for restoration. The Capitoline Museum ticket is now good for a 4 hour time period. I was surprised at the astonishing beauty of the rooms of the Capitoline Museum. The woodcarvings, chandaliers, and frescos which adorn the rooms surely should rate a mention. They were spectacular. I would recommend the restaurant Alfredo's on Scrofa which is located on the Via del Scrofa between Piazza Navonna and the Pantheon. We went to sample what is advertised as the "Original" home of Alfredo sauce, but skip it and have the Spagetti with Clams and Black Truffles--Divine!
Chris Crowell
Bloomington, IL USA 04/11/04
Hotel de Medicis
Pardon mois, Fawn, but I feel compelled to reveal more details to anyone considering a stay at de Medicis hotel in Paris. We also returned from spring break with our two teenagers with whom we have hosteled before and we're all accustomed to bargain accomodation. Yes, the location is terrific. In addition to the sandwich shop across the street, there is a fantastic Indian restaurant, a lovely traditional french restaurant, and the least expensive breakfast in Paris (maybe all of France) just steps away from the hotel's front door. However, the hotel itself can best be described as a dump, with only 1 - ONE shower for nearly 30 rooms. And two nights out of three during our stay, the hotel was full!
Next, there is the cast of "colorful" permanent characters that inhabit the hotel. Up on the top floor lives a Yugoslavian woman with a penchant for playing loud french music and slamming doors all night. Yes, SLAMMING! Hers, the bathroom, the shower, you name it. She was combative and antagonistic towards us and other temporary guests at the hotel. Little sleep was had for two nights because of this mad woman. Denis (whom Rick describes as "happy"?) would do nothing about her behavior despite numerous complaints from us and others at the hotel. We did manage to change rooms the last night and get some sleep before our flight the next morning. Final word: yes, the cat is cute, the price is right and the location great, but be prepared for poor conditions generally and ANYTHING can happen!
GCP
CO USA 04/11/04
Spring Break in Paris
I took my 16yr old sister to Paris for spring break and had a fabulous time on a budget. My 4th trip to Europe, I never leave home without my Rick Steves guide book, and fellow tourists are easy to spot and swap ideas and question with when you see that familiar paperback in their hands. While we booked a hostel from home for it's inexpensive rates, once we arrived we decided it was not the best place for us. Open came 'Paris 2004' and we found Hotel Medicis near Luxembourg Gardens right in our target price range. Only 31 Euros for a double we enjoyed a lovely balcony, friendly visits from Pousette the owners cat, and an exceptional Lebanese sandwich shop directly across from the hotel that served the best chicken wrap I've ever tasted. If you drop by for a bite to eat tell Assaf we said ~ Hello ! I will return to Hotel Medicis and my new favorite sandwich spot again and again. Another successful trip ~ Thanks Rick Steves
Fawn
St. Louis, MO USA 04/09/04
Paris 2004
We returned from a week in Paris 4/1/04. Stayed in an apartment on Rue Cler. The additional room and amenities over staying in a hotel was wonderful. Rue Cler area is so convenient to everything either on foot, Metro or bus. #69 bus does not run on Sunday (waited 40 minutes before discovering). American Church is open only Thur. & Sun. (Office is open other days) We were not aware that DST started 3/28 and were an hour late for everything. This was our 4th trip to Paris and was our best. Rick's books are invaluable when traveling Europe. We never leave home without one.
Howard & Jo
Cherry Hill, NJ USA 04/03/04
Is it the Grand Hotel Jean D'Arc in the Marais?
I had been emailing the wrong Hotel Jean D'Arc and had a similar experience of not getting responses back. When I emailed the correct one, I got back a response within one day. Perhaps, though, you did email or fax the correct hotel and there is some sort of technology issue. Do persist because the location is great!
Winnie
Detroit, MI USA 04/02/04
Hotel Jeanne d'Arc
We have had difficulty contacting the hotel. After an initial contact with Stefan (?) and faxing a card number for reservations we have heard nothing. The emails are not returned but I get no response from the hotel either. The hotel seems like it is highly recommended. It's a shame because we were looking forward to staying in the Marais district during our June trip.
Bill & Carolyne
Denver, USA 04/02/04
Paris
The Paris guidebook is invaluable-the walking tours are especially good. Hotel Du Champs du Mars was very nice for the price, and Rue Cler was a terrific neighborhood, especially if you are into food. La Maison du Jambon and Lenotre are amazing stores-do not miss the mini macarons (NOT the same as American coconut macaroons) at Lenotre. I would recommend a couple of other inexpensive restaurants in the 7th, within walking distance to Rue Cler: Bistrot du 7eme and Cafe Constant. Both have 3 course dinners for around 16 euros. I would encourage everyone to take seriously Rick's suggestions about ettiquette and manners in Paris. Say "bonjour" and "au revoir" to shop clerks. Say "Parlez-vous anglais?" instead of asking in English. Etc etc. I was really embarassed at the number of Americans who just assumed everyone spoke english or who ignored shopkeepers (or, who tried to make complicated substitutions at restaurants. Folks, if you're going to get complicated, learn the language).
Chris
Seattle, WA USA 04/01/04
Fun time over spring break
My dad took me to Europe for spring break as a birthday gift (awesome idea, I must say)- we stayed in Paris and London while visiting (3/19-3/26). It was a first for both of us, and turned out to be a great experience. We had Rick's books for both Paris and London, and they helped tremendously. We got to visit a lot of places during our brief 2 day stay in Paris, but some of our favorites that are definitely worthwhile are Napoleon's Tomb, St. Sulpice and, of course, the Louvre. We spent a lot of time looking for Mona Lisa, however, as she had been moved to a different area due to gallery refurbishment. We had our favorite dining experience at Anahua Calli, a wonderful Mexican restaurant on rue des Bernardins near Notre Dame. Reservations or early dinner plans are recommended (they open at 7) and it may be helpful to be prepared to speak some French or Spanish.
Sarah J.
Palm Harbor, FL USA 04/01/04
Paris Restaurants
My wife and I spent a week in Paris 10-17 March. Our 7th visit, stayed in Rue Cler area for third time. Enjoyed it immensely as before. Recommended restaurants in area: La Serre, L'Auberge du Champ de Mars and Cafe Bistro Pappa. Ate last night at the "recommended" Le Florimond. Spent over $100 for 2 incl wine. Food only fair, not worth price. Did enjoy talking to Doug (??) who was with ETBD and on the train skills video in 1992 with Dave H. Enjoyed talking with Doug's wife also. Enjoyed dinner on Thur eve in Musee d'Orsay elegant dining room. Highlight of trip for my wife.
Jerry Arter
Orlando, FL USA 04/01/04
Rue Cler Metro Stop
Just an update: the Rue Cler metro stop Ecole Militaire is closes at 9PM nightly until June, 2004. I didn't notice it until the second night, when I tried to get back to my hotel around 10:30. Anyway, the next closest stop is La Tour Marbourg, which isn't that bad. Otherwise no trouble with any of the stops.
Sarah <email>
Rocklin, CA USA 04/01/04
Paris, again and again
We wanted to do something with the family for spring break. After checking out air fares to different locations, my wife said , why not go to Paris!! Why not? First thing I did was to go get Rick's Paris Guide Book. From here, I was able to find the location where we wanted to stay, the 7th, hotel, Hotel Royal Phare, and come up with a "Plan" of attack. After reading the book, we decided to take the Air France bus from the airport to the Arch and the Metro to the hotel from there. There were six of us, and the the only problems we had, was deciding what to have for dinner. Using the guide book, I was able to come up with 13 places or things to do. In 7 days, we did most of them. The kids enjoyed the trip. Once again, the Paris Guide Book came thru for us. I read the postings of other folks and these also help me plan our trip. This is our 3rd trip for my wife and I, 1st for the kids. The Guide Book was as always, a great investment. Thanks.....
Enrique
Richmond, Tx USA 03/31/04
Rick's Travel Books are Invaluable
We just returned last week from our first trip to Europe. Rick's books were time and moneysavers! We visited London and Paris and had a great time. We found the people in Paris to be very nice and friendly, even more so than the folks in London. We found Rick's books for both London and Paris to be invaluable. We bought the Paris Museum pass (they now have a special desk at the Louvre just for the purchase of passes)and were able to bypass a long line on a rainy day and zip right in. We also felt the tip about using the ATM rather than the currency exchange saved us a ton of money. The currency offices were quoting a 1.65 exchange rate for the Euro and our bank only charged us 1.23. On the Pound, the quote was 2.00 and our bank charged 1.83. We bought an AT&T card before we left, against Rick's advice (at the prodding of friends), and it turned out to be a very bad investment in London. The local Unity card, available at any local shop was a much better deal. The Paris Illuminations Tour by Paris Vision is more expensive than stated in the book - 47Euros for a 2 hour tour rather than 27. The bus #69 tour doesn't seem to be feasible on Sunday-Service is not guaranteed, and after waiting at the suggested start spot for almost 45 mintes, we gave up. The Archelogical Crypt is not open on Mondays and parts of the deportation memorial are under reconstruction.
Jan Poscovsky
Sugar Land, TX USA 03/29/04
Paris hotel and food
Just returned from a week-long trip from Paris (3/19-3/27) and had a few comments about hotel and food. We stayed at the Hotel du Palais Bourbon in the 7th arrondissement (Les Invalides area) on 49 rue de Bourgonne. For a family of four, we had a nice family suite and enjoyed the BEST breakfast of croissants, bread, and cafe we had for 155 euros/night. We loved Francois, the fluent and patient desk clerk! The beds were comfortable and clean and our friends had an incredible view of the Eiffel tower lit at night (fifth floor,room 26, a 4 bed room). The hotel is close to Metro stop Varenne, the Rodin museum and Les Invalides. We walked to Rue Cler and noticed the MANY Rick Steves tourists staying around Hotel Leveque. The market was wonderful and it was a busy area with American tourists. As for food, stay away from the small convenience markets. If you buy food to eat in your room, go to a street market or a larger grocery store. The wine you find in the grocery store is great. You can spend under 4 euros for a great bottle of wine. We followed much of Rick's advice and saved a few euros and a lot of time.
Jennifer <email>
Minneapolis, MN USA 03/27/04
WiFi locations
May want to add this URL to locate WiFi locations in Paris as well as other cities: http://www.wi-fihotspotlist.com/ (It is not just for the US)
Stef Wohl
Chicago, IL USA 03/25/04
Samaritaine Rooftop
At end of Rick's recommended Historic Paris Walk, we tried to get to top of Samaritaine Dept store, to find it closed between Dec. 20 and March 15. This apparently is annual, but not mentioned in book.
Margie Ott
Bethesda, MD USA 03/24/04
First trip to Paris
My first trip to Paris was also the first time using a Rick Steve's guide. I bought two guides but his was the only one I used. It saved me a considerable amount of money and a great deal of time - an excellent investment. I loved the walking tours and found the museum tours funny and helpful. By the third day I was feeling like a native - confident on the metro, confident shopping and getting around. I loved trying new foods and experiences. Learn to speak a few phrases and speak them well - I had nothing but pleasant experiences!
Camille
Maple Valley, WA USA 03/22/04
Back from Paris
We just returned (3/20) from a week in Paris with our 23 year-old daughter. It was her first trip (my 5th, and my wife's 3rd). It was great to see Paris again for the 1st time through her eyes. We stayed at the Hotel Beaugency, and although the room was a bit tight, we had no problems. This may be just a seasonal thing, but the hotel did not charge for breakfast on any day. They had the usual pastries and croissants, some cheeses, cereal, yogurt, jams, milk, coffee, juice, or tea. I also walked over to the Patiserie/Boulangerie a 1/2 block away on Rue Cler to supplement our pasteries with a few of their special ones, and also to get a Coke for my wife. The hotel location was great - right at the end of Rue Champ de Mars on ue Duvivier a 1/2 block off of Rue Cler. As the PAris guide describes, Cafe du Marche is hopping in the evening - we ate their three times (once for lunch, once for dinner, and once for drinks). Also ate at Cafe Bosquet nearby, as recommended by Rick.
Our most enjoyable meal was at La Varanque with Phillipe. The only downside was the only clientele Phillipe had that night was Rick readers. To quote Phillipe, "Rick Steves my best friend, but now I need staff!" Some observations from our trip and suggestions for the later editions of the Paris guide: - a good lunch restaurant (a little pricey, but great food and service) is Le Petit Yvan on #1 Rue Jean Mermoz just off of the Champs Elysees and Rond Pointe (Metro: Roosevelt). - The Assyrian display at the Louvre is closed on Friday - Many of the classics from the Orsay (Whistler's Mother, Van Gogh's Starry Night over the Rhone, and Berthe Morisot's The Cradle were not there (possibly on loan or tour) - Big break - Although not in season, two of the fountains at Versailles were running for a short while on Wednesday - the Parisiens we visted with were always friendly and curious about where we were from in America, and would always smile when learning we were from Texas. One artist complimented my wife and daughter on their beauty.
- A note about Rick's political statement in the back of the book on Anti-Americanism: I wish Rick would remove this page entirely, or remove his personal politics from the column. Whether one agrees with the American government or the French with regards to Iraq, the war was NOT a unilateral venture (even if you only count Britain, that would make it bi-lateral, and there were many more countries besides these two involved). That section was not only poor math, the personal politics were irrelevant to good travel suggestions. Please do not become a Lonely Planet where political statements through their guide books have almost ruined them as a reliable source of information. It would be best to remove your personal politics completely from the guide books, and simply advise that politics and good travel do not usually mix. Great trip, and good help, for the most part, from the Paris guide.
Alan <email>
Missouri City, TX USA 03/22/04
Paris
We just returned from Paris yesterday (our 6th time.) We have always checked out one of Rick's books before we have gone. Why? Because he knows of what he speaks!A few comments:
First, we must either be extremely lucky or look like we could get violent if accosted, because we have never had any, and I do mean ANY, problems with potential pickpockets in Paris. We walked all over, through Metro stations, and various neighborhoods at varying hours of day and night, my wife with her camera case and me with a day pack, and have had no trouble whatsoever. Now having been born and raised on the South Side of Chicago, I know there is the potential for trouble in any big city, but I would much rather take my chances in Paris than in one of our U.S. major cities.
Next, the famous unfriendliness of the French is , by and large, a myth cooked up by our media. Any big city has jerks, but about 99% of the people we have met in Paris have been nothing but nice. Now, if one goes over there spouting anti-French rhetoric, or thinking that they owe us something for our help during WWII, or complaining about how they should have backed us in Iraq, I suppose they could be very unfriendly indeed! However, with a little common courtesy, such as trying to speak their language, you will find that they are very nice overall. In fact, most of the time when they hear how you butcher their language,(at least, how WE butcher it), they are more willing to try to speak English if they are able! I have met more grumpy folks out here in the sticks of Springtown ( 30 miles outside of Fort Worth,Texas, pop. 1,700)than I have ever met in Paris!
Some items that might be of interest include the fact that Sephora's Perfume doesn't have the scent wheel anymore. It is more of a do it yourself deal now. You walk around and pick your scents yourself, spray the strips, and take a whiff. Interesting place though. Also, dinner at the Cafe du Marche on Rue Cler was, as Rick said, wonderful! We spent our 17th anniversary there. Total cost with a bottle of the house wine and dessert was around $50 U.S. We do not usually spend this on a meal, but a splurge every now and then is fun ( it WAS our anniversary after all, and in Paris at that!!!!) We honeymooned here and spent our 17th anniversary here as well!!! What more could we ask for??
We stayed at the Hotel Tolbiac which is near Place de Italie in the 13th arrondisement. It cost us 38 euros a night(about $46 or $47 U.S.) for a spartan but clean room with a double bed, TV (French, of course), toilet and shower in the room on a rather noisy intersection (which is probably why you don't hear more about this place!) Breakfast was 5 euros, for which you get coffee, hot chocolate, juice, bread, croissants, butter, jelly, cereal, etc., and Caroline, the owner, is a friendly and gracious host who is very fluent in English. It is in the Chinaown section of Paris, and we have stayed there several times, and have always been satisfied. The bed is a little saggy, and you have to walk up several flights of stairs, but it is, as I said before, clean and safe and very French.
Notre Dame was having some work done on it, which limited what you could see on the inside. This was a bit of a disappointment since I always love to go in there when we visit Paris. However, it was a great trip overall, and Rick's books are a terrific help. Read them!!!!
Steve and Reena Hill <email>
Springtown, TX USA 03/19/04
Museum Pass
I agree with Tom about the museum pass in Paris. As Rick Steves says, travel time is very precious and frankly, for us, saving the time standing in line was worth double the price on the card. In fact on the flight back on the plane, we were sitting across the aisle from another american couple and they were complaining about the long waits at the museums. We mentioned the passes and they were livid that they did not know about them. Obviously not Rick Steves devotee!
Carla Chicago, IL USA 03/19/04
03/19/04
Carte des musees
Regarding the post from the couple who felt they didn't get as much value for their money as they'd have liked from their purchase of the museum pass, the true value in it is the freedom to bypass lines at the Louvre and d'Orsay. I've saved literally hours of time with it; whether or not I was saving a few euros/dollars here or there was of lesser consequence. I'd say the museum pass is still *the* most important purchase in Paris next to a carnet of Metro tickets (or a weekly pass).
Tom
Los Angeles, CA USA 03/18/04
Paris - Grand Hotel Leveque
Finally have the time to thank you for a wonderful time in Paris. I'm thanking you because we stayed at Grand Hotel Leveque for $84/night (July during 2003 Tour d' France), with private bath and 2 comfortable twin beds. The elevator was pretty amazing (translation: SMALL) but it worked and that's what counted. Breakfast in the dining room was a great start for the day (free if you identified yourself as a Rick Steve's person) and even coffee from the vending machine in the lobby after a long day was a delight.
The markets fun to explore. It was hard to leave "our neighborhood" to see the rest of Paris, but we did. Sunday night we were tired and had reservations for the Paris Illumination bus tour and River Seine at night. Had dinner at a little sidewalk cafe on Rue Cler with 2 other couples, also using Rick's book. We laughed about it and discovered that we'd all selected different hotels from the book and were each happy with our choices. Had lunch one day with the rotisserie chicken. What a feast. Also took a taxi to the flea market and walked both parts... the "flea" section and the furniture area. Great experience, broken up with a rest stop for Latte. French coffee is THE BEST. I'm spoiled now.
I asked the receptionist at the hotel how many guests were "Rick Steve's" readers and she said that at the moment, 100%. Pretty amazing, Rick. And I booked the resevations on the Internet and got my confirmation with no trouble at all. Thanks so much for your help. And for your KERA travel programs which I try to never miss.
Karen Kraft
Dallas, TX USA 03/17/04
Museum pass
My wife and I got back from Paris last night. We bought two 3 day museum passes for 36 euros each. I don't think we saved any money with it. You might say it was our fault, but we spent so much time at each museum that we were unable to make it to enough museums in the three days to recoup the 36 euros. Plus, we probably didn't read the fine print, but the pass would not get us into special exhibitions at the Pompidou Center. So, I would say, consider how long you are likely to spend in museums before you buy a pass.
Thaxton Springfield
Clearwater, FL USA 03/13/04
Hotel Castex
Something has happened to Hotel Castex! I have stayed there several different times over the last several years, due to Rick's suggestion. I like it so much, but it's rates have doubled at least. I am traveling with my husband, my son and his wife and our 10 yr.old grandson. Castex wants 360 E per night for a triple and a double!
Emily
Shelbyville,Ky, KY USA 03/11/04
Paris FUN!
I just got back from a lovely trip to Paris. Stayed with friends and celebrated my 40th birthday. Just to let you know, The Louvre, is now 8.50 euros. And the discount is after 6pm not 3:30 and not on Mondays. Just info.( I asked 3 people. And even though it was printed in the info map, discount after 3:30, they refused to honor it.) Also, we ate dinner at a FABULOUS restaurant near the Trocadero called Le Coq Bistro" It was delicious. Friendly, formal waiters that are patient and nice. It was the "bestest" trip. My next stop, New England...Maine to be specific. But that will be when my husband Mike gets back from backpacking in Europe. (he is still there..lucky!!) I used your Paris guide book almost extensively. (plus the France Guide for Dummies.) The weather was great too and the Metro is the best and we walked everywhere too!
Cindi Whitehead
Eureka, Ca USA 03/08/04
Hotel & Tour Recs
Thank you Rick for suggesting Hotel Grand Leveque and Paris Segway Tours. Rue Cler was a great market street and it was litterly out our front door. The Eiffel Tower was 3 minutes away and the staff were very friendly - even the cleaning lady spoke a little English with us! We decided to try the Segway tour with Paris Segway Tours (www.parissegwaytours.com) and that was the highlight of our trip. I had wanted to try one of those things for a while, so riding that through the heart of Paris was magical! Merci
CA Ehrhardt <email>
New Orleans, LA USA 02/29/04
Marais, Hotel Sansonnet, etc
My husband and I spent a week in Paris earlier this month. After a hotel booking snafu (two hotels with identical names...) we booked the Hotel Sansonnet last minute, in the Marais. The rooms were tight, but the bathroom large and everything very clean. Funky pillow rolls in place of pillows on the bed, but they provided regular pillows when asked. The location was fantastic--we were able to walk everywhere for the first 3 days of our stay. We loved staying in the Marais--we stayed on rue Cler 10 years ago and enjoyed that too, but here we were so central, which is fun. The rates were very reasonable, E78, the people cool but polite.
I'd also like to concur on the comments about the Cafe Janou. We had a great meal, served by a spunky, friendly waitress named Karon, who is probably making the owners a lot of money. Highly recommend booking this one.
We also recommend both the museum pass (whose rates have gone up from what is quoted in Rick's book), and travelling in winter. The museum pass saved lots of time, particularly at the Musee d'Orsay, and gave us freedom to pop in anywhere without a thought. And travelling in February avoided the summer crowds, without sacrificing much (except, perhaps, cold feet). There were still tourists, but they mostly seemed to be French. Finally, the Montparnasse and Montorgueil neighborhoods were great fun. Check them out.
Barb <email>
Littleton, CO USA 02/26/04
RE: Leveque is popular
I just booked the Grand Hotel Leveque. They responded to my request promptly and had rooms available for the second half of our stay in Paris at the beginning of July. Rooms for our first leg, in the middle of June, were already taken. Good Luck!
Bill J <email>
Denver, CO USA 02/19/04
Paris 2004
My wife and I just returned from a weeklong stay in Paris. Rick's Paris book helped us immensely. We especially appreciated the self-guided museum and neighborhood tours, which gave concise, interesting background detail and saved us a lot of time. Our only suggestions for possible additions to the Paris book:
1. The current wording about the Orsay's hours led us to believe that the Impressionist wing closed early even on Thursday (when the museum is open late). However, the Impressionist wing was indeed open late Thursday night; the book could explain this more clearly.
2. It would be great if the book gave some detailed advice on the best way to have euros in hand for the transportation from the airport into the city (is it better to exchange a little cash before leaving or just make use of the awful airport rate when you arrive?). Thanks for helping us have a relaxing and enjoyable trip.
Bryan <email>
New York, NY USA 02/19/04
Grand Hotel Leveque
I had previously posted about the Grand Hotel Leveque not responding to my inquiries. Today I received a letter from them confirming my reservation. They indicated that the email did not go through. I guess it's still floating around in internet space. This restores my confidence in Rick Steves' recommendations.
Jim H. <email>
Trinity , Tx USA 02/17/04
Hotel Champs du Mars & Comfort Inn
On our last trip to Paris we followed Rick's advice and stayed at Champs du Mars right off Rue Cler. It had been recently redecorated and convenient and has elevator large enough for 2 people plus luggage. It was about $78 per night--a real bargain. A really cheap place--decent too--was Comfort Inn on Rue Moufftard for less than $50 per night. A little noisy so room on back is best. It was clean with many restaurants in the area.
Susan <email>
Roswell, Ga USA 02/07/04
Hotel Grand Leveque too popular!
Perhaps some of the hotel recommendations are too specific. Should more than one Paris hotel be recommended in the videos? Rooms at the Leveque for June were all booked by January this year.
Dr. Greg Hoversten <email>
Sioux City, IA USA 02/06/04
[Editor's note: Rick's Paris guidebook for 2004 lists over 60 hotels in several different neighborhoods, not including hostels and apartments. While we love the Leveque and the Rue Cler area, be warned that it is extremely popular with our readers.]
Hotel de la Bourdonnais
We stayed at the Hotel de la Bourdonnais for 3 nights in Jan. '04 after finding a special expedia rate for $132 for a triple/quad. We were pleasantly surprised when we got off the Ecole Militaire Metro stop and the hotel was one block away! After travelling all day, this was a great surprise. The three of us fit comfortably in the large room with 2 queen sized beds. There were french doors leading to a balcony facing the street where we could see the Eiffel Tower. You could not even hear any street noise. The bathroom was large with a double sinks, separate vanity, separate toilet, and tub/shower. The staff were very helpful. They speak English, but spoke French to us upon our request to practice our French. The Rue Cler neighborhood was cute with several shops, internet cafe, and a grocery store right next to the hotel. I will definitely stay here again.
Sherry Johnson <email>
Baltimore, MD USA 02/06/04
Another Baby Name Vote
Congratulations Robert! You could name your baby girl Cler and then her middle name could be "de Lune." She could be really quirky!
Janet
Kansas City, MO USA 01/27/04
Hotel Residence "On-Ree Cat"
We would like to recommend the Hotel Residence Henri IV on the Rue des Bernardins in Paris (Left Bank). Small, quiet, well-cared-for. We paid E133 per night. Three stars. Friendly, helpful people. Safe. Clean. Breakfast was E8, I think. We stayed five nights in November and wanted to stay longer but needed to get back to our home base in The Netherlands. Parking would be a problem, but we were traveling on Eurail passes and the metro was just about three blocks away. Also found a nearby Internet cafe.
Jeannie C. <email>
Austin, TX USA 01/26/04
Leveque, Rue or Cler Vote
Robert - A year ago I would have recommended the name Paris, but we know what happened there [Editor: good thing he didn't stay at the Hilton!]. Anyway, I think that Leveque or Cler would be really cool names. I would vote for those two over Rue cause I am not a Golden Girls fan. Good luck!
Josie
Baltimore, MD USA 01/26/04
Wonderful Hotel in Paris
When we visited Paris last spring, and decided to stay an extra few days, our hotel was booked so we tried a hotel a friend recommended. The Hotel Varenne on Rue de Bourgogne (http://www.paris-hotel-varenne.com/) has become our favorite, and the rates this February are the same as last May...125 Euros. Turn right outside the hotel and walk a few hundred yards into the Rodin Museum. Beautiful patio area, huge bathroom, thick lush towels, lovely decor, A/C, helpful and gracious hosts. For a lunch or dinner splurge, try Gerard Besson at 5 Rue Cog Heron near the Palais Royale. Classic French cuisine, Sophisticated but friendly service, luscious food, giant cheese tray and exquisite decor, accented with roosters. Prix fixe 5 course dinner without wine, about 70 Euros per person. We can hardly wait to go again, if the budget will stretch!
Fran Russell <email>
Irvine, CA USA 01/24/04
Hotel Grand Leveque, Rue Cler
We loved the Leveque and will only stay in the Rue Cler neighborhood. In fact our first child was conceived there. Do we name her Cler or Leveque? Maybe Rick!
Robert <email>
Winston Salem , NC USA 01/19/04
[Editor's note: How about "Rue"? Rue McClanahan played Blanche on the television series The Golden Girls.]
Paris Visite
Another vote for the Rue Cler and the 7e Arrondissement! Several of Rick's recommendations were booked and we ended up at L'Hotel de la Tulipe on Rue Malar, about a block away from the Rue Cler (yes, "Cler", not CLAIR as many seem to spell it). The hotel was a bit more expensive than some of the others listed but the rooms were clean and comfortable. The hotel is a converted convent and the inner rooms overlook a charming courtyard. The staff were quite helpful, with the exception of one low-level clerk who took offense at the fact that my French (college-level minor, read/write/speak/dream in it) still had an American accent. Otherwise everyone else I dealt with was more than pleased to hear their own language spoken by a visitor.
Had a number of excellent meals at the Café Marché, ordering off the local menu and taking advantage of the plat-du-jour specials. Yes, the ubiquitous smoke was a problem for this non-tobaccoed American, but that was more than made up by watching the precision ballet of the servers as they emerged from the kitchen to carry huge plates of food around the tiny restaurant. Also took advantage of an excellent pastry shop around the corner from the Rue Malar as a source for snacks & breakfast.
As for the Métro, yes, for limited use I highly recommend the carnet because of the convenience and savings, but do be aware of the need to keep your ticket - see the tips from visitors who failed to do so. Followed Rick's advice about moneybelts and had no trouble with pickpockets, although I did see 3 others become victims and on one occasion had to remember my best gutter language to fend off one "helpful" type at a ticket vending machine. I wanna go back!!!
Jeff
King of Prussia, PA USA 01/19/04
Paris Museum Dining
I have just returned from a whirlwind trip to Paris, a sort of theme trip with several ladies from my Sunday School class. We read The DaVinci Code over the holidays, and decided to visit the Parisian sights that were key to the story line. I planned several lunches at restaurants on-site at major museums.
The first day, we lunched in the incredible dining room at Musee D'Orsay. This room must have been either a dining room or a ballroom when the D'Orsay was a hotel/railroad station. The ceiling and walls are quite elegant, and diners relax in huge wicker armchairs. We each had either a hot plat du jour or a salad plate. Mine was a 'salad of the forest' with mixed greens, mushrooms, roast duck and duck confit, with a broiled goat cheese toast garnish. The price for 3, including a carafe of house white, was 46.55 euros. Quite a bargain for the ambience and the luscious food.
Another day we lunched in yet another outstanding dining room, this time in the Musee Jaquemart-Andre, on Blvd Haussmann. The ceiling was brought back from Italy by the art-collector couple that built the house, and the room had those 20 foot walls that make an Italian-painted ceiling seem perfect. My salad plate was again mixed greens, this time covered in thinly sliced Italian ham, along with grape tomatoes, 3 broiled goat cheese toast points, and a little sauce dish of black olive tapenade. Just divine with a bottle of a mighty dry reisling. It was 50.05 euros for three, including several cafe cremes. Another deal for ladies who wanted to really 'do' lunch. If you go, get there before 11:30 am, as the room filled up quickly and they take no reservations.
Now for the most memorable part of the trip. The DaVinci Code part, which took place at St. Sulpice church. We opted to take Rick's advice, and go to the Sunday 10:30 am mass, then stay for the organ concert and wait at the door at the left of the entrance in case the organist will allow visitors to the organ loft. We were the very last to go up the steps, and stopped to take a few pictures of the sanctuary from the balcony before making our way down the dimly lit hall toward the organ loft. We were ushered into a brilliant red silk-lined reception room. As the door closed on the small gathering of tourists, we heard someone gasp, "Aren't you Rick Steves?" There he was, confirming details of the organ recital section of the 2004 Paris book with organist Daniel Roth. We had our pictures taken with him, as well as with the organist. I got his autograph in my little moleskine travel diary. Talk about being in the right place at the right time.....
Our next stop was the Louvre, to see the Mona Lisa and Madonna of the Rocks, as well as the inverted pyramid. We lunched at Cafe Marly, in the Richelieu Wing, overlooking the pyramid entrance. We had read that reservations were not required. The staff had a bit of an attitude because of our lack of reservations but condescended to seat us within 8-10 minutes anyway. We dined in a glowing room overlooking the Marly horses. The walls had a treatment that resembled baby blue suede, and we sat on burgundy couches or blue velvet chairs; just lovely. The prices were more than we had anticipated, but the food was purely divine. I had a Thai shrimp soup with lemongrass and mushrooms in a broth thickened with coconut milk and a glass or two of a nice sancerre for about 20 euros. It was worth the price just for the people-watching alone. This place must be where the interesting come to see and be seen. We toasted Rick Steves for making our short winter Paris getaway so memorable.
We also thoroughly enjoyed our stay at the Hotel Leveque on the Rue Cler, and the meals (2) that we had with Phillippe at La Varangue, and at L'Auberge de Champs de Mars, and the Chinese take-out place across from the hotel. By the way, there is a cyber-cafe just down from L'Auberge de Champs de Mars that is open 12 noon to 8 or 10 depending on the day of the week. Despite the ongoing conflict in the Middle East, we felt completely secure, and had absolutely no trouble getting along with anyone as long as we smiled broadly, and spoke broken French with Kentucky accents. A wonderful trip!
Kathy Crown-Weber <email>
Danville, ky USA 01/17/04
Hotel du Champ de Mars
Just need to update the rates at Hotel du Champ de Mars - they went up a couple euros. I made reservations for a triple room for 96 euro (still the best price availabe!) for March 2004.
Sarah <email>
Rocklin, CA USA 01/13/04
Hotel de France
Planning a trip to Paris in March, I booked a room in Rick's highly recommended Grand Hotel Leveque. Both their website and Rick's book listed the price as 92E. My request was confirmed by them at a rate of 106E and 7 E for breakfast. When I emailed again to correct the dates, they raised breakfast to 8E. I will be staying at the Hotel de France, which was highly recommended by a fellow traveler and charges what they advertise.
Susan Smith <email>
Frederick, MD USA 01/11/04
Another charming street on the left bank
Making reservations for New Year's in Paris should be done more than 2 months in advance, or so I learned. Since all recommended hotels in our price range were 'complet' for the holidays, I picked one off the internet: Hotel Nevers on Rue du Bac It was a wonderful find, on a charming and very very French street of small shops 3 blocks from the D'Orsay. We paid extra for a top floor room with a small terrace. The room was tiny, but clean and well maintained, with a small bathroom. Even the 72 shallow steps to our floor were fine after a long day of sightseeing! I would highly recommend this hotel and the Rue du Bac for a very French experience. We didn't see another non-French tourist during our stay!
Amy <email>
Calgary, AB Canada 01/09/04
Hotel in Paris
My wife and I spent one week in Paris last year. We stayed at Bradford Elysee near Champ Elysee. (Check astotel.com) Wonderful people and actually upgraded us to a US size room with two french doors (one in the bathroom and the other in the master bedroom with a huge deck) What a wonderful experience. We walked all over the place and ate at reasonable, friendly and small restaurants. I am planning to go back at the end of the month and will stay at Bradford again.
USA 01/04/04
J'aime Paris
First of all, let me say that Rick Steves is da man! We stayed at the Republique Hotel, which is nice and quaint. The Republique arrondissement is really nice...there are a number of metro entrances/stops, a little grocery store, a Leader Price, a payphone around the corner, several places to eat (including the fabulous Maya, McDonalds, and Quick), an ATM, a shoe store (my favorite place to be!), even an internet cafe.
Another fabulous place to eat is A La Bonne Franquette in Montmartre. Montmartre is my favorite part of Paris, next to the Louvre. Not only do you get a fabulous dinner, you get entertainment as well!
I've traveled to Paris three times, planning my fourth. Each year, I bring my copy of Rick Steves' Paris and a translation book and I'm good to go. I highly recommend Rick's book on Paris to every person who travels with us, and then some. I particulary appreciate the Louvre tour. I am always in awe of the Louvre and need some guidance. The Versailles tour is very helpful, too. I enjoy reading Rick's take on Paris and have learned a ton. Rick Steves is my hero! No matter where you go in Paris, you are bound to see another Rick Steves follower armed with a Paris guidebook or Mona Winks. It's always nice to see another traveler with a Rick Steves mindset!
It may seem silly, but I'm not that fond of the 2004 book jacket. Maybe if there was one photo and it was larger, I don't know. But that's beside the point.
Brandie <email>
KS USA 01/04/04
Avoid Hotel de Roubaix, Paris
In October 2003 I booked a Paris hotel I found on the internet, the Hotel de Roubaix. I sent a credit card number to reserve for 7 nights in November, and asked for a nonsmoking room, if possible. When I arrived (after a long flight from San Francisco) and entered the hotel, the smell of cooking and stale garlic assaulted my nose. I love garlic and cook with it all the time, but stale it smells pretty awful. I decided to ignore that and go up to the room, which was on the 3rd floor. Opened the door and ditto the odor. There were cigarette burns on the table, sizable pieces of something (food crumbs?) on the floor, and the wardrobe was positively sinister.
I have visited Paris 7 times, usually staying on the left bank in 2 star hotels. They were mostly kind of worn and shabby , but clean and hospitable. This was definitely neither. I went back down to the desk and said the room was not what I expected and that I wanted to look for another hotel. Would it be all right to leave my luggage? Yes. I decided to splurge on a 3 star hotel in the neighborhood, Arts et Metiers in the 3rd, and went back to retrieve my bags. The desk clerk politely said that he would have to charge me 1/2 of a night's stay. I agreed that this was fair.
Unfortunately, the owner's adolescent son was lolling on the clerk's chair, and asked for a translation of our conversation. No! he said. She has to pay a whole night's stay! (It was early afternoon, so the room could have been rented.) He asked why I was leaving. trying to be diplomatic, I repeated that the room was not what I expected. He said that's not good enough! You have to pay! The real clerk said I'm sorry, he's the owner's son and I have to do what he says. I said fine, handed over my credit card and went upstairs to get my bags.
When I came down I signed the receipt. The kid (maybe 17 or 18, so not a child) jumped up and said beligerantly, What's wrong with this room? There's nothing wrong with this room! I said the room was dirty, smelled bad, had cigarette burns on the table, etc. You come upstairs and show me this dirt! he said. I said, Look, you have your money, I'm exhausted, goodbye. He stood outside on the steps, sneering, rocking back on his heels, muttering curses, as I fastened my bags together and trudged off in the rain to the other hotel. The Hotel de Roubaix is the only hotel in France where I have ever encountered such rudeness, and I would say to anyone thinking about staying there, think again.
Shirley Stuart <email>
Berkeley, CA USA 12/11/03
La Varangue!
During a recent stay on Rue Cler (at the Hotel Leveque which I highly recommend) I ate twice at La Varangue. Maybe I live too provincial a life, but that is some of the finest food I have ever eaten, and at the reasonable prices charged by Phillippe, a meal there is simply unbeatable. I think that the biggest mistake people make in Paris is eating at the ultra expensive restaurants (thinking that is what has to be done to get the finest food). If extraordinary food at a great price is your objective, La Varangue is the best I have ever found. Also ate a very good meal at Cafe Rouissilon, and they have a very good "American" breakfast with 2 fried eggs, ham, fruit cocktail, orange juice and coffee for 8.50 euros.
john russell <email>
charlottesville, VA USA 12/11/03
Paris trip in November
I took my two daughters, wife, mother-in-law, and sister-in-law (man, do I have a lot of women in my life!) to France in early November for almost two weeks. Between your France 2003 guidebook, my fairly decent French, great traveling companions, and the universally nice French, it was my best vacation yet.
We arrived at CDG in Paris and met with our pre-arranged taxi from Airport Connections. Yes, it certainly was more expensive than taking the RER/Metro but one of the things I've learned in traveling is to make life easier for yourself where appropriate. After being up most of the night, flying through Iceland and the Netherlands, being met by a taxi to take us right to our hotel is money well spent.
Although we tried to make reservations at the hotels listed in Rick's guidebook, we were unable to do so, eventhough we were traveling in a slow time of the year. We found another hotel, Hotel du Palais Bourbon, htlbourbon@aol.com located near Les Invalides, that was a very nice two-star place. For $180/night we got an ample breakfast and two-room suite for four people. A very fair deal for Paris. It was about a 5-10 minute walk to the nearest Metro station. The staff could not have been friendlier (other than the late night, no-nonsense guy) or more helpful. The French get such a bad rap in this country. They are ever so polite, in a formal sort of way, and also are quick with a smile and friendly word. I have been to over 20 countries in my lifetime and generally find people around the world who want to be friendly but the French are in yet another class. I liked them so much, I am seriously thinking buying a place there someday.
The sites of Paris were of course fantastic. However, I would say that when visiting Notre Dame, it would be a good idea to read a guidebook of some sort before and during the visit there, as there is a dearth of information to be found. Saint Chappelle was actually more to my liking. It was more intimate. A good gameplan is to get to the Eiffel Tower about two hours before sunset, so that it can be viewed in the best light, tickets purchased, and the bird's eye views of Paris enjoyed in sunset and then night. One day, our party split in two, half going to Les Invalides and the other half to the catacombs. Both have dead people, famous (or infamous, depending on your outlook on Napoleon) and the anonymous. Seeing Napoleon's tomb and the recreated room from Saint Helena where he died, was a hit with my older daughter. We homeschool, so we studied France quite a bit before we left - Napoleon being a primary subject - and seeing Les Invalides brought things home quite well. Of course, Musee d'Orsay and the Louvre are amazing. Sure, you could spend days (weeks?) in each of them but they can be done efficiently with a gameplan and prioritizing.
The key to enjoying a trip, I think is proper planning. Find out what is in an area and see how that fits into your interests. Time is money on trips. Wasting time, enroute, to decide what you want to see can be frustrating. Finding out when you get there that a site is closed on a particular day or that it is tourist trap is a waste of your time that you cannot get back. Buy a good guidebook - then read it before you go. For more information on our trip as we continued to Arles and Sarlat, go to this website's section on France, Road Scholar's Feedback.
Shonn
Havre de Grace, MD USA 12/08/03
hotels
Just returned from 8 days in Paris. Had no reservations, a one-star budget and was traveling solo. And I lived to tell about it! What I did have was Rick's list of one-star hotels. I would recommend the Hotel d'Esmeralda to anyone traveling on ANY budget. 35 euros per night, just across the Seine from Notre Dame in the 5th arrondissement, close to Metro and RER lines, close to restaurants and shops. It had a very safe, comfortable, family feeling with old world charm. However, I would NOT recommend the Hotel le Central from Rick's guide book. AWFUL experience; best forgotten soon.
Karen <email>
Mankato, MN USA 12/07/03
Hotel Leveque
We stayed at Hotel Leveque on Rue Cler while we were in Paris. Our room was tiny, had a strange perfume smell, and was very noisy even though it's located in the backside. We heard other guests footsteps in & out all night. There were people trying to get into our room at 2AM.
Dana
VA USA 12/07/03
Paris hotels warning
I just returned from eight days in Paris, with a no-reservation, backpack, small budget kind of trip. I read Rick's travel guides thoroughly before heading out and carried with me a list of one star hotels in Paris that Rick had felt adequate and that might work for me. My first night in Paris I ended up at the Hotel le Central, 6 rue Descarte. It was already dark out and I was not sure at that point if I wanted to be out and about the Metro system, etc., alone after dark in Paris. The hotel room was very dirty, with urine, blood and semen stains on the bedspread, mattress pad and mattress. The shower had been used as a toilet judging from the smell and look of it. My door did not lock from the inside. I ended up sitting on a wooden chair pushed up against the door through the entire night. Several times during the night, men tried to open my door and walked away mumbling and stumbling when unsuccessful. As soon as it was daylight, I paid and left, post haste. Any chance you want to re-think that recommendation Rick? :) You also mentioned in your books that the Banque de France (31 rue Croix-des-Petits-Champs, Paris)offered the best currency exchange rate usually. They wouldn't let me in the door...and started snickering when I asked if I could exchange currency. Did I misunderstand something? And. lastly, the remaining 7 nights of my trip I stayed at the Hotel d'Esmeralda and cannot thank you enough for that recommendation. I loved everything about it and will hope to use it always on my trips to Paris.
Karen Takle <email>
Mankato, MN USA 12/07/03
Warning on Hotel de L'Alma
My husband and I had a wonderful trip to Paris. We used Rick's 2004 Paris travel guide and found the tours of historic Paris, the Louvre, and the Orsay museums incredibly helpful, educational and fun. We like his sense of humor and attention to detail.
But I want to caution people about the Hotel de L'Alma (and I am not a usually quick to complain). I had made reservations via the Internet for three nights at the rate of 90 euros, including breakfast. When we arrived, Slava, the receptionist/manager, had our reservation but claimed it was now 100 euros a night. She claimed that the new price of 90 euros was for 2004 – the year my travel guide was good for - but that it was currently 100 euros as it was still 2003.
My husband and I were tired so we checked in and took a nap. We found the room less than satisfactory. How can this be a three-star hotel? It was a tiny cramped room with a small bed, small bathroom, no charm and no view. Before dinner, I went to an internet café and printed out my confirmation for 90 euros. I showed this to Slava. While she claimed to have been the one to have sent it, she could not see why it said 90 euros and she refused to honor it.
My husband and I checked out the next morning and went to the Royal Phare Hotel. Our room was of a similar quality but that is to be expected from two-stars. We had a very nice receptionist/manager named Joey and the cost was 70 euros – plus from our room we had a view of the Eiffel Tower! We were much happier there.
We recommend travelers stay away from the Hotel De L'Alma. It isn't worth the price and I saw no reason for its three stars.
As to restaurants, we very much enjoyed our meals at Casa de Siergio, Formand's, and Bonfingers.
Amy Strano <email>
Brooklyn, NY USA 12/03/03
Splurge on the Ile-St-Louis
I just returned from 4 days in Paris and I used Rick's guidebook through-out. His guide to the high spots of the Louvre is invaluable when one has limited time. I loved his comments on the "bad" art at the Musee d'Orsay. We splurged and stayed at the Hotel de Lutece on the Ile-St-Louis. It's not so bad if two are splitting and you cannot beat its location. There is a sister hotel several doors down, the Hotel des Deux-Iles, that also looked good and was the same price. The RER from DeGaulle goes directly to Notre Dame and it's a breeze to walk from there. The best part of staying on the island is all the museums and lots of the sights are within walking distance. And it's fun returning to the hotel by walking past the front of Notre Dame.
Rick recommends several restaurants on the Ile but I have another I highly recommend at #36,rue St.Louis-en-Ile. It's called Le Caveau de l'Isle. They have prixe-fixe meals at 14.50, 24, 28 and 56 euros. The service and food were fabulous; I'd go again in a heartbeat.
Another plus for the location of the hotel is that there is every sort of little shop you need to assemble a good picnic. Several times we bought food and ate in our room when we were tired. There are several creperies and pizza places for a fast, inexpensive meal. I wouldn't spend the money for a long stay but I recommend it for a few-night "splurge" in Paris.
Elizabeth <email>
Pittsburgh, PA USA 12/03/03
Paris
We found Rue Cler enchanting and spent a lot of time there. The restaurant "Cafe du Marche" was terrific. We were very disappointed in the "Hotel des Grandes Ecoles". Our rooms were very small (in the large building) and the fee for parking was 30 Euros a night! The Garden rooms looked to be bigger. Other than that all the advice was right on. Thanks for a great trip!
Judy Mein <email>
Potomac, Md., Md. USA 12/02/03
Paris in November 2003
Just returned from 10 days in Paris: business travel combined with pleasure. Found the Rue Cler neighborhood and will definitely return next time to enjoy that area more fully. My husband and I had some rental car trouble on the way back to Paris from a trip to Rouen and Normandy. Everyone was very friendly and very helpful, as we communicated with our little bit of French and their little bit of English.
There are still plenty of visitors to Paris in November, but the Louvre was not very busy on Monday morning. It was fascinating to visit the Arc de Triomphe just a few days after November 11 and see the beautiful flowers at the grave of the Unknown Soldier, and to see the bouquets next to the WWII resistance fighters' plaques throughout the city.
We enjoy Paris and France every time we go and have never encountered any rudeness; but then, we are polite, try to speak French, and try to blend in.
Stephanie Mann <email>
Wichita, KS USA 12/02/03
adding neighborhoods to guide book
Perhaps Rick should consider adding accomodations in more neighborhoods than the 3 he has used for years. There are so many other wonderful areas to make your home for a few days! I stayed in the Rue Cler area for a few days and really think Paris is more charming elsewhere.
Adam <email>
King of Prussia, PA USA 11/25/03
Paris Illumination Bus Tour
We just returned from Paris, and as usual, your book was invaluable. The only oversight we found was regarding the Paris Illumination bus tour. During the winter months, it departs at 7:00 p.m., not 8:30. We waited until our last night, so we missed it. Everything else was right on. Rick is my guru.
Suzanne McWhorter <email>
Austin, Tx USA 11/21/03
Good book
I'm reading Rick's book on Paris right now, and it's good. I am a bit of a travel snob ("Guide book? I don't need no stinking guidebook!"). But it's really interesting and full of practical advice. Having seen Rick's shows on PBS, I can hear his voice as I read along. It gives a great, down to earth summary, and some good practical advice. And it deals with real world things we want to know, like where to get on the internet! None of the other guidebooks I thumbed through on the shelves even mentioned internet access. Get real! This is 2003. Who sends postcards??
J <email>
Arlington, VA USA 11/13/03
Great tips
Just returned from a fabulous week in Paris. Hotel du Champs de Mars is warm, cozy place to sleep. Dinner at Le Florimond is fabulous with Laurent making everyone feel welcome and comfortable. I miss Rue Cler...can't wait to go back...
Dorina
San Rafael, CA USA 11/13/03
Observation Deck in Samaritaine Dept Store CLOSED ?
Been several years since I visited Paris and per suggestion in Rick Steves book went to the store and up to the observation deck; a wonderful view of the city (okay, not quite as high or dramatic as the Eiffel Tower), but since it was free it was a cheap & easy way to get a bird's eye view. Just read on the Fodor's Forum that the deck is CLOSED ???
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34455695
Sarah <email>
TX USA 11/05/03
Awesome Paris!
Hi! Just got back from London & Paris, using Rick's book as a guideline. Paris was fantastic - more beautiful and grand than we remembered. And surprisingly clean for such a huge, busy city! People were friendly and kind.
We stayed (again) at the Grand Hotel Leveque on rue Cler - clean, modern, inexpensive, a walk or metro ride from everything! We were a little saddened to see SO many Americans clinging to their Rick Steves guidebooks like Linus to his blanket! Some of the restaurants Rick recommends were filled entirely with American Rick Steves travellers! That's a little sad. The books are a guideline, not the bible! Don't be afraid to consult other references (like Time Out) to find excellent restaurants and cafes Rick may not mention.
For anyone who hasn't been up the Eiffel Tower, your money will be very well-spent on a clear, sunny day. Go to the 2nd level, which offers a great view but is less pricey than to the top. Of course it's touristy but the view is awesome, and it's exciting to be in the Eiffel Tower!
Chocolate lovers, make sure you don't miss Salon de The Angelina on rue de Rivoli for the Chocolat Africain, a rich, unctuous hot chocolate served in a pitcher with a bowl of whipped cream! The calories are killer (the price too - 6.10 euros!) but it is SO worth it!
Tattoo fans, one of the best places in Europe for a gorgeous custom tattoo is Tin-Tin Tatouage (metro Blanche, near the Moulin Rouge) www.tin-tin-tattoos.com.
Danielle Vallee <email>
Montreal, Qc Canada 11/02/03
Fabulous Paris!
I spent 5 days in Paris in September. Not only were we lucky enough to enjoy perfectly clear, sunny, warm weather, but the French citizens were always kind and helpful. I had my 5 days planned down to the minute with the help of Rick Steve's Guidebook. We saw everything!
As many have already stated, the 3- or 5-day museum pass is priceless, as are 10-ticket carnets for the metro.
I would gladly recommend the Carofftel Hotel on Ave de Gobelin in the Latin Quarter. It is a clean budget (86 euros) hotel with comfortable beds, modern bath and TV. Great buffet breakfast(7 euros) including cereals, breads, pastries, cheese, ham, fruit and more, along with a warm and friendly staff.
My only disappointment was Versailles. The palace itself was unbelivably crowded, poorly lit, smelled terrible and looked very shabby. On the other hand, the gardens and fountain shows were gorgeous, so it wasn't a total waste. Thank you Rick Steves for helping so many people have wonderful vacations!
Cathy <email>
Wilmington, DE USA 10/24/03
Paris book
First, let me thank Rick for helping me believe we could plan and execute a trip to Europe! My husband and I went to Paris for the first time this fall. We found Rick's book on Paris right on target especially the walks and the hints about books to read to help understand the French. The books helped me understand our differing initial attitudes when meeting "strangers". As a result we had many charming encounters with the French and we will return with no second thoughts!
We recommend Hotel du Champs de Mars, very clean and quiet. The breakfast is a good value although sometimes we went out to avoid some 'ugly American' incidents. Some Americans are so loud and just take over the room and some were fun to compare notes with about Paris.
The only bad thing about RS devotees is that they often have their book out everywhere and over use it instead of just enjoying actually being there! Come on, folks, Rick wants you to stand on your own two feet and do some exploring without the book once you have educated yourself!
Terry <email>
Lafayette, CA USA 10/21/03
Restaurant: La Casa di Sergio
It was my last night in Paris in May 2003 and it was raining. A charming Italian man yelled to my friends and I that we should eat in his restaurant and that Rick Steves recommended it, so we did! Well, it was La Casa di Sergio, and it was fantastic. It is at 20 rue de l'Exposition in the Rue Cler neighborhood. I ate there my last night in Paris and it could not have been a more perfect end. Sergio is quite charming and we took Rick's advice and we let Sergio select our entrees us and spoil us. Everything about Rick's Paris guidebook was reliable.
Joan <email>
Augusta, GA USA 10/17/03
Hotel Louvre Forum, 1st Arrondisement
We recently spent our first trip to Paris, a week of sightseeing using Rick's tour guide to Paris as the basis for many decisions, most of them spot on.
One area in which we chose differently was for the hotel. We stayed at the Hotel Louvre Forum, 25 Rue du Bouloi, Paris 75001 (http://www.paris-hotel-louvre-forum.com/), which is located a short walk (10 minutes) from the Louvre and the Seine and another short walk from Eglise St. Eustache and the shopping center at Forum des Halles. There are several Metro and RER stations nearby. We could not have chosen a better place to stay. The room, a double bed with full bath, was 90 Euros per night, and meticously spotless, comfortable, quiet and convenient, if a bit on the small side. Give me clean and small rather than large and dirty anytime! Within 200 meters, there are pharmacies, food markets, boulangeries, patisseries, restaurants, bars and a 24 hour brasserie. The hotel manager, Andre, and his staff (especially English-fluent Didier) were especially helpful The breakfast buffet at 8.50 Euros is a bargain, although our late evenings and jet-lag made it difficult for us to make the 9:30 am deadline. The hotel does not currently have air-conditioning, although they were making plans for installation during our stay. The elevator is just big enough for two, or one with a large bag.
The only negative (very minor, over which the hotel has no control) is that we were awakened by boisterous pedestrians at 0200 the first night, closed the windows and were not bothered any other night. Next time we go to Paris, we'll be staying there again!
George Beuselinck <email>
Ulster Park, NY USA 10/17/03
Two star hotel: RDP (Relais de Paris) Lyon Bastille
We booked through francevacations.net at the RDP Lyon Bastille. It is located in the 12th, at 35 rue de Citeaux (2 stops east of Bastille on Metro Line 8). Pros included a 2 min walk to metro, taxis, shops, pharmacy, and restaurants. It was very convenient, front desk was open late hours, and it felt safe. Noticed other Americans staying there. It was off the beaten track, but lively, with a very helpful staff. It was basic and clean, close to the Bastille area and Gare d'Lyon train station, and one block from a hospital. The breakfast room was cozy with basic selections. Cons were no air conditioning but breezy window ventilation, small shower and room, and a very basic elevator that was unreliable (but hotel is very small). In a local neighboorhood, slightly run down, but with excellent restaurants, groceries. Too pricey for what you get, around 80 euros. I would only recommend it if you want a place to stay that is not in a commercial tourist center. We kind of liked getting away from the bustle to eat and sleep.
Marie
Verona, NJ USA 10/14/03
Unlikely view location
Recently, my husband and I were strolling through Paris near Place de L'Opera, when we looked up and saw people on what seemed to be an observation deck. We wandered around until we found the Galeries Lafayette, a huge department store on Boulevard Haussmann. There is a free observation deck on the top floor that provided very nice unobstructed views of several areas of Paris. We have a lovely picture of Sacre Coeur that we could not have gotten anywhere else.
Betty Spann <email>
Mukilteo, WA USA 10/12/03
Paris
Just returned from a two week trip to Paris, travelling solo. Rue Cler area is still lovely - Grand Hotel Leveque is fine - appreciated the air conditioning. On my second week I stayed at Hotel Saint Louis (the one near the Bois de Vincennes). Great hotel, whirlpool in the bathroom, two blocks from the last Metro stop (Line 1)- a block from the direct RER connection to downtown and 98 euros for a single.
It was nice to be in suburban Paris yet with great access downtown. Parc Floral in the neighborhood is fun to stroll through and the Chateau is neat to tour (particularly if you bring children). Enjoyed being in a more green environment with fewer tourists. Highly recommend the Jacquemart Andre Museum - small, manageable, lovely on-site restaurant. Tried to tour the church Val de Grace (with the dome) but it is closed now each day (renovations??) The Arab Institute is also a fascinating building (near Metro Jussiac). Paris is wonderful, as always.
Kathy Grant <email>
USA 10/01/03
Avoid Blue Airport Shuttle from CDG
We made the mistake of choosing the cheapest airport shuttle from CDG to Paris. We booked on Blue Van Shuttle, which charges 14.50 Euro per person. I followed their directions, called the company from a pay phone after we landed, then proceed to baggage claim and through passport control. That took us about 30 mins. After we went to the meeting point, we ran into another American couple traveling from California with their 2 young children who were also waiting for Blue Shuttle. They had been waiting for 1.5 hrs and had called the Blue Shuttle office four times, and each time they were told the shuttle was "coming." They would have taken a taxi had they not already pre-paid for the shuttle on the internet. We waited for another 30 mins (2hrs for them) before the shuttle arrived. The driver spoke almost no English, and had no idea who or how many people he was supposed to pick up. He also had no idea where we were going either, even though we had to submit all the information when we made our reservations. The worst part was after we left the airport, the driver made a 20 min detour with the van (with 8 passengers total) to stop by his house to pick up his lunch! On our way back to CDG, we took Airport Connections, which was 35 Euros for 2 people, and it was much better service.
yuen <email>
philadelphia, PA USA 09/29/03
Hotel Kensington in Paris
I stayed at hotel Kensington with a friend in Sept 03. Definitely cheaper than most other hotels in the area, and close to the Metro. Our room was clean; but was very very small. We had a double room with shower only, which is cheaper but smaller than double rooms with bathtub. Our room faces the back, so it is more quiet. However, the rooms in the front facing the street also get a glimpse of Eiffel Tower. For 67Euros/night for 2 people, can't complain.
yuen <email>
philadelphia, PA USA 09/29/03
Beautiful sunset in Paris
I happened to visit Pompidou center on a late afternoon (it's open until 9pm). It was September 26th and around sunset time (7:30p). From the top floor of Pompidou, it was a straight line to Eiffel Tower and the sun. Since the Pompidou is higher than all the buildings around it, I could see the sun setting behind the Eiffel Tower, and then disappeared into the horizon. It was the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen. If you are heading to Paris soon, I would highly recommend it.
yuen <email>
philadelphia, PA USA 09/29/03
Not to be missed Restaurant!
My husband and I are headed back to Paris in a week. What am I looking forward to the most? Our favorite restaurant in the world...literally. It's called 'La Taverne du Sargent Recruteur' at 41 rue Saint-Louis-en-l'Isle, Paris 4th arr. If you didn't know about it, you'd pass it by. It's 400 years old, and the original owner's armor is displayed. Upon arriving, your waiter will bring to your table a basket of fresh whole vegetables (cucumbers, peppers, etc.)the basket also has boiled eggs, also a basket of different meats; salamis..all whole. Cut what you like. He will bring a dish of pickles, a bowl of lentils and a loaf of country pate with french bread. This is just the appetizer! You eat as much as you like, and then the waiter takes it to the next table! Get there early (7pm) and your baskets won't have been touched yet. You will have your choice of about 6-7 main courses, desserts (the chocolate mousse is unbelievable)and a cheese platter. The restaurant also has its own wine label, and your meal comes with unlimited red or white wine. Plan to spend a few hours here. Tables are very close together, so also plan on getting to know your neighbor. Our last visit was in September 2001, and the price was about 22 Euros each...an incredible bargain for this type of experience. Just trust me on this...it will become your favorite restaurant as well! We'll be in Paris Oct. 15-18...anyone for dinner?
Vicki Floyd <email>
Jacksonville, FL USA 09/27/03
Hotel Des Chevaliers = poor service
On August 16 and 17, 2003, I stayed at Hotel Des Chevaliers in the Marais Neighborhood (4th arrondissement, Mo: St. Paul or Bastinne) in Paris. I found the hotel in Rick Steve's Paris 2003 guide book. We were in France doing a home exchange with a family from Epernay, a very nice town near Reims. We wanted to spend 2 nights in Paris so I called down the list of hotels asking for their price on a family room (we are 2 adults and 2 children, ages 9 and 12). Our budget was very tight. On other excursions on this trip to France we have all slept in the same room to save money. I speak French and explained this to the manager at the Hotel Des Chevaliers. He said their normal rate is 130 Euros per night. I told him that was more than I had to spend and he offered a price of 116 Euros for a family room.
We arrived at the hotel at about 1 pm. The man at the front desk was the same person I made the reservation with. He handed me the keys. I asked him if I needed to sign-in. He said no and we went up to the room. The room looked like a family room. There were two rooms with a single entry door. It was still very small, but acceptable. On the morning we were supposed to check-out, my 9 year-old daughter woke up with laryngitis. She was in a lot of pain and it seemed urgent so I took her to a doctor that the hotel recommended. While I was at the doctor's office, my wife checked-out of the hotel. She did not know about the special negotiated price. The hotel charged 116 Euros x 2 rooms x 2 nights. That's twice what we negotiated.
When I later went through the bills I found the overcharge. The hotel responded to my email that I was incorrect and they stood by the price they charged. They offered a free continental breakfast on our next stay. I am a 100K traveller on American Airlines, a Silicon Valley business executive, my father was an airline pilot, and my mother an airline flight attendant. We travelled a lot! In my experience, it is now a standard business practice for hotels to reconfirm the price of a room on check-in. Hotel des Chevaliers does not follow this practice. When I disputed the charge they referred me to their rack-rate fee listing posted in the room. Of course, the listing does not indicate discounted prices. When I pointed out my misunderstanding of the room rate, they would not negotiate any refund. I would have been satisfied if they said they would address their policy and consider having customers sign-in to confirm the price.
I would sum up the Hotel Des Chevaliers policy on customer service in these words: Too bad for you for making such a stupid mistake. For this reason I strongly recommend you not stay at the Hotel Des Chevaliers. For questions about this, feel free to send email to fcohen@pushtotest.com.
Frank Cohen
Campbell, CA USA 09/26/03
Eating in Paris
Just got back from a 8 hour day in Paris. We hit our highlights after studying Rick's Pais guidebook. Very helpful. We found a cafe right across the from the Notre Dame, on the corner of the Quai De La Tournelle and Rue Lagrange. It was called the Cafe Panis. Our waiter was very friendly and the food was good. We chose here because of our limited time, didn't have the luxury of seeking out one of Rick's suggestions and we were not disappionted. Had a view of the Notre Dame while we sipped French champaign and ate delicious crepes. The only negative is we also had a "great" view of the Paris traffic. Just made me even more glad I didn't drive.
Genna <email>
Stuttgart, Germany 09/20/03
Hotel de la Paix
Another happy Hotel de la Paix guest. Close to everything, quiet street and courteous front desk. One of the staff even offered help when he saw me later, at the local post office.
I'm not a young traveler, but this was my 1st time in Europe and my 1st solo vacation. My goals were convenience, cleanliness and comfort at a reasonable price. I also wanted the "flavor" of Paris, even if I couldn't order from the "gourmet" menu. The location, cost and warm decor of this intimate hotel were perfect for me. The elevator and pleasant service were unexpected treats.
My redone single room was only 9 euro more per night than what I had paid the previous week, when I stayed around the corner on a busy street, at the well-worn Kensington Hotel. Staff and facilities at the Kensington were "servicable". At Hotel de la Paix, they "sparkled"! Cannot wait to get back to Paris, Rue Cler and the Hotel de la Paix.
Janyce Myers <email>
West Des Moines, IA USA 09/16/03
March in Paris
Rue Cler hotels were full but we stayed at Hotel Muguet. Great place. Our room had view of the Eiffel Tower. 5 minute walk and you were on Rue Cler. Bathrooms looked to be new. I'd stay there again without question 95e a night.
La Varangue is a marvelous place to eat. Phillipe is great and his 9 year old daughter waited tables. The three other groups in the placde all came in carrying RS guidebooks. Had we tried it earlier in our 7 day stay, we probably would have eaten there 2 or 3 times.
Try the stroll down Rue Cler buying your bread, wine, cheese, marvelous huge juicy strawberries, cheese and dessert for a great meal either picnic in park or eat in your room.
Late March was a great time to visit. Lines were mostly non-existent. Weather was great. We took jackets for early day and carried them in the afternoon. Bedding plants were out and blooming.
Previously, I never cared if I ever visited Paris, but I was impressed and would go back and stay in the same hotel and visit some of the same restaurants and museums again all the while carrying my RS guidbook.
Keith E Miland <email>
Winona, MN USA 09/11/03
We just spent 3 nights in Paris at the Hotel Beaugency in the Rue Cler area. Perfect location, very clean and quiet and safe. The staff is very helpful. We just did everything the Rick Steves book said to do in Paris for a 3 day stay and it worked perfectly. The museum pass is amazing--saved us a lot of money and got us into everything with no lines. It doesn't bypass the line at the Notre Dame tower--so we got there 15 minutes before it opened and were the first ones up the tower. We were also the first people they let into Versailles because we got there 10 minutes before it opened. The tour groups don't really arrive places until 9:30 or 10 AM so we had the sights to ourselves. We were the only ones in the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles!! The people in Paris were very nice. We tried to be polite and to be travellers not tourists.
julie
Provo, Ut USA 09/08/03
Hotel De Turenne
About two weeks ago we stayed at the Rick Steves recommended Hotel De Turenne in Paris at 20 Avenue de Tourville. The staff was pleasant, the location was great, near Ecole Militaire, Metro, restaurants, etc. We were assigned a room on the top floor, nice BIG bathroom, even had 2 sinks. The room was spacious by European standards. The downside? The carpet. Utterly gross, more stains than clean space. We were told they are in the process of renovating rooms, but there's no excuse for filth. Isn't there a health code for hotels in Paris?
sonia botos <email>
Mt. Laurel, NJ USA 09/02/03
Wonderful Paris Hotel - Hotel du Champs de Mars
If your planning a trip to Paris I really recommend the Hotel du Champs de Mars on Rue Cler. It is listed in the Paris and France 2003 books but we're staying there now and I have to say I am very happy with it! No need to get the breakfast included though, a great cafe and crepe shop across the street from the hotel.
Tim <email>
Edmonds, WA USA 09/01/03
Arab World Institute
Not mentioned in the sights, is L'Institute du Monde Arabe. This is a spectacular building. The windows have beautiful, highly stylized computer controlled irises that open to let in or block out sunlight throughout the day. Also there is a museum full of artifacts from around the world. The bookshop is well stocked with books, postcards and souvenirs. Also they have a Morrocan tea room where you can drink mint tea on poufs and also a souk filled with middle eastern goods. In January, they had a fantastic exhibition with Arab horses and knights. There is a metal detector at the entrance but the Louvre has one too. The courtyard is nice to see at twilight as slowly changing colored lights are embedded in the tiles. Well worth the visit.
Kelaine Devine <email>
Langley, BC CAN 08/26/03
Hotel Muguet
We had a wonderful five night stay at the quaint little Hotel Muguet in the 7th arrondisement. It is the best kept secret. It is on a quiet street, the rooms are extremely clean, maybe newly remodeled, and the bathroom---aaahhh! Wonderful. I give this hotel and the very polite staff a four-star rating. One important note, I emailed on the 7th of August for a stay starting on the 9th and they were so very accommodating! The price was very reasonable and each room has its own "climatise" (air conditioning). We needed that for the warm weather Paris was experiencing that week.
Museum pass is a must; just like Rick said, you just walk to the front of the line at the Orsay, handy on Tuesday when the Louvre is closed. We were able to go up the Eiffel Tower by going at 815am and waiting in line til it opened at 900am. Wonderful view.
We just paced ourselves during the day, drank a lot of water, carry a bottle with you. The metro stop we used was La Tour Maubourg, closest to the hotel. We did run into several people carrying Rick's book--he's a popular guy, but the book is so easy to read and the walking tours are fun to follow.
Pat Summers <email>
kearney, mo USA 08/22/03
Another Vote for Montmartre
I agree with Holly. We stayed in a hotel in Montmartre from August 5th - 14th mostly because we couldn't get into any of the hotels that sounded good to us in the rue Cler or Marais areas and the Contrescarpe area does not appeal to my husband. We had a similar experience to Holly's and felt that there indeed has been a change over the last couple of years. For some reason, the area didn't seem nearly as seedy as it appeared to us from prior trips, though we were a bit anxious before we got to the hotel. Though someday we do want to stay on the Ile Ste Louis, just because it is, in my opinion, the most quaint area in the city. Anyway, the area we stayed in was quiet and extremely untouristed. I would certainly have felt better with a Rick Steves recommendation in the area, though. Maybe in the Paris 2004 Guidebook?
Jeanine
Denver, CO USA 08/20/03
Don't Miss Montmartre
I am a big fan of Rick Steves and for the most part, have found his advice and recommendations to be golden, however, I was disappointed with his comments on Montmartre. My husband and I recently returned from a week long trip to Paris and stayed in the Montmartre neighborhood, which we found to be charming, eclectic, and beautiful. I have visited many of the neighborhoods of Paris including the Marais and Rue Cler, but Montmartre has quickly become my favorite. Since most tourists tend to stay around the Sacre Coeur, the rest of the neighborhood is quiet, quaint, and for the most part, tourist free. There are excellent restaurants (La Rughetta!), hip cafes, unique art and clothing boutiques, and beautiful winding streets and staircases. I think Montmartre has changed quite a bit in the past few years (partially due to the success of the film Amelie), and I hope that Rick and his associates will return to give it a second look.
Holly Houser <email>
Seattle, WA USA 08/19/03
Considerations for the Paris Bound
Just a few items that might be of interest to those going to Paris.
(1) The metro/train (RER C) line east of Invalides is closed for construction as I write this on 12th Aug. This makes getting to many of the sights from the 7th arrondisse1ment a pain when they otherwise would have been easy. This includes Notre Dame, d'Orsay, and cool left-bank areas. Check the metro/RER map for the impact from your nearest stop. This information may have influenced my hotel choice if I had known. I am not sure of the closure duration.
(2). We stayed at the Derby Alma Hotel close to Pont de l'Alma. It exceeded expectations. The room was nearly US size with a king bed and small desk and sitting area. Great AC and very clean with good staff. Price was about 119 US/Night with no extra charges via hotels.com. Much better than it looked on the web, great area with cafes close by.
(3). Museum pass is valuable due to time saved bypassing lines, especially at Versailles, and allows for stop-ins at small museums without a 'is it worth it' decision.
(4). Be aware that there are reasonably long, 1/2 mile, walks from some metros such as Versailles and Invalides to the site entrance points.
(5). Every site seems to have a 'go early' suggestion, but the one that should be heeded is the Eiffel Tower. Our experience at 21:00 was hour wait to go up. Another 45 mins line from 2nd level to top. 20 mins to get back to 2nd level, 45 mins to ground.
(6) For non-wine/beer drinkers, Plan to pay over $4 for a small coke just about anywhere except the supermarket (6 for $3) and expect little ice. Good excuse to start drinking at noon though.
(7) We found the Rick Steve's book very good and we used it as the basis for our planning and default tour plan. I highly recommend it for a week visit.
(8). One area of the book that could be improved is the map drawings of the Louvre. The maps on pages 105 and 112 (2003 book) caused a bit of confusion. The winged victory statue is used as a helpful landmark in both drawings, but I think it must be 'pointed' the wrong way in one of the two. Look at the two drawings together and the position of the winged victory relative to the stairs. It is different on the two drawings. Bottom line, the drawings are useful, but should be used in conjunction with the free Museum maps (all sights) as suggested in the book. The drawings by themselves are limited.
Name Not Disclosed <email>
Sugar Land , TX USA 08/16/03
Re: Hotel la Serre
Well...I just looked up the Hotel la Serre, and Rick hardly gives the place a glowing recommendation. He lists it along with some other hotels under the caption "Lesser Values - given this fine area, these are acceptable last choices" and then goes on to say that it "has a good location on rue Cler but generates readers' complaints for its rude staff and bizarre hotel practices..." Was this hotel a "last choice" for you? Was every other place sold out? Your complaint seems to center on the inconvenience caused by renovations, which is a temporary condition that can't reasonably be anticipated in a guidebook.
Personally, I swear by Rick's hotel recommendations - on a recent trip, we stayed exclusively at his recommended hotels and B & B's and found every one to be very satisfactory. The list: Hotel Deutsches Theater in Munich, Baren Hotel in Wengen, Hotel Lortschberg in Interlaken, Hotel Relais Bosquet in Paris, Hotel Keizershof in Amsterdam, Vancouver Studios in London, Dunedin Guest House in Edinburgh, and Brocks Guest House in Bath. Without hesitation I would stay at these again and would not hesitate to recommend them to others.
john russell <email>
charlottesville, va USA 08/15/03
Hotel la Serre
I gather that Rick recommends Hotel La Serre on Rue Cler because his recommendations are posted throughout the hotel. I feel obligated to add this note because my stay was very disappointing. The hotel is undergoing renovation so it is covered in plastic sheeting. There is paint and dust from sanding everywhere. The stairwell was blocked off because of the repainting and all guests therefore had to wait endlessly for the one-person lift. I left a note for the owners while I was there and never got a reply, so I emailed when I returned to the U.S. and got a very hostile email back. Having stayed in numerous hotels in Paris in the last few years, I would suggest dropping this one from anyone's list.
Wendy <email>
New York, NY USA 08/14/03
Paris Heatwave
Just got back from 8 fabulous days in Paris. But oh man, the HEAT! High 30's (Celsius)every day kind of drains the enthusiasm. Thank heavens for Rick's book. Best thing we did was to get the museum pass. Being able to skip right past the 2 block lineups for the Louvre, Orsay, and Versailles,etc, made those passes worth their weight in gold.
We followed Rick's walking tours as best we could, cutting back on the pace due to the heat, and managed to see almost everything on our "must see" list. The second best thing we did was to regularly take time out to just sit at some little outdoor cafe and people watch.
But I think my biggest tip for surviving Paris in the heat: drink the water!! Out of a carafe, a water fountain, or a bottle-just do it. I did all three and had no problems.
The only real downer on the whole trip came at the end of our day at Euro Disney: my husband was pickpocketed. Fortunately he had most of his cash and his credit cards in his money belt, so he only lost a few euros. Again: thanks for the tip, Rick.
PS: Had dinners at several of Rick's recommended eateries: Cafe Marche in Rue Cler, Auberge dela Reine Blanche on Ile St.Louis, and Chez Plumerie near Sacre Coeur. All served wonderful meals at a fair price, and the service was friendly and courteous. Can't wait to go back (when it cools down).
Candyce
Oberammergau, Germany 08/12/03
Hotel Langlois (des Croises)
On our recent (first) trip to Paris, we stayed at this wonderful hotel. It is up in the 9th on a quiet street but quite busy area. This hotel is a great value and absolutely lovely! It is charming, elegant, and full of character, just as you would hope in a Paris hotel. It is all furnished with antiques from the period the hotel was built, and it is clean, clean clean! The staff was very helpful and accomodating (although poltely reserved). This hotel should be in Rick's book even though it's not in one of his "neighbourhoods".
Marie Lewis <email>
Vancouver, BC Can 08/06/03
Paris is the best
My wife and I got back from five weeks in Europe and by far Paris was the best, we did not encounter one rude person there. We would tell anyone that goes there to take a bike or Segway tour with Mike's Bikes Tours. It was awesome.
The only complaint that we had were that the Rick Steve's books gave great overviews but there is so much more that what was shared in the book. Don't just rely on Rick's books 100%. There are so many more hotels than what are listed in his book. He must get a kickback from the hotels that he shares. So the guidebook was disappointing. My suggestion is to use a Lonely Planet guidebook.
Tim Teterud <email>
spokane, wa USA 08/04/03
[Editor's note: Rick does not get kickbacks from any of his recommended hotels. As he says in the beginning of the Sleeping chapter, Rick deliberately focuses on "three safe, handy, and colorful neighborhoods." Of course there are many more hotels in Paris and he goes on to recommend two websites to help you sift through additional hotel listings. He also likes the Lonely Planet guidebooks, too, and has recommended them for many years.]
Paris was a pleasant surprise
My husband and I were in Paris for 10 days 6/15-6/24 (my Christmas present). It was an excellent experience for us. I had been studying French in my car using various CD lessons, but surprisingly, I didn't have to use much of it. The majority of people to whom I asked 'Parlez- vous Anglais', said 'Yes I do'. People even came up to us on the street to offer their assistance a couple of times when we were looking thru a map.
We stayed at Mon Reve Amadeus on Felix Faure between metro stops Boucicaut and Lourmel. It was a wonderful quiet, residential neighborhood where people walked their dogs,etc.
Our favorite restaurant was on our street. It was 'La Chaumier' on 54 av. Felix Faure. The maitre di was a beautiful French woman who spoke great English. The menu did not have English interpretations, so she volunteered to sit with us and explain everything on the menu. The 2 waiters we had were very attentive and the food was fabulous (and not real expensive).
Two other restaurants we would recommend are La Coupole where one of our 2 waiters volunteered to take our picture, and La Select both in Montparnasse across the street from each other.
We found that the best place to get brochures is the tourism office on the Champs Elysees, near the Arc de Triomphe. This is how we found out about Citirama bus tours. We used Citirama for our tour to the Moulin Rouge which was the best show we have ever seen. We also went on Citirama's Champagne tour to Reims and Epernay where we toured the caves of Piper-Heidseick and Moet and Chandon, followed by champagne tastings. We also took Citirama's guided tours to Giverny(Monet's home) and Versailles.
We did 7 of the 'Paris Walks' walking tours where we learned lots of detail about each area, for only 10 Euros. Pere Lachaise Cemetary was an experience. We found most of the celebrities' graves we were looking for including Jim Morrison.
We found the metro to be an excellent way to go anywhere, and found the Parisiennes to be very helpful and friendly.
J.Brown
Tampa, FL USA 08/04/03
Renting a car was expensive. We should have taken the train from Holland (where we were staying for most of our trip). I don't think that the guidebook emphasized just how expensive having a car can be (gas, parking, and the ever present payage (tolls) on French roads), nor do you expect the god-awful traffic jams that paralyze Paris traffic for a good part of the day.
Also, we stayed at the Hotel du Turenne in the Rue Cler area. I would not stay there again. We had to wait over an hour in the lobby while our room was "cleaned." When we finally went up, we found hair and crumbs in the sheets, bloodstains on the pillowcase, hair in the sink and mildew in the shower. The hotel was terribly smoky and the air conditioning (as mentioned in the Rick Steves book) was not working. We found the front desk staff to be somewhat odd. There were times when we were asked to turn in our keys when we left the hotel for our "safety" and there were times when we were not asked for our keys. Also, several times at night we would come in and the front desk was not manned at all and all of the keys were right there for the taking.
USA 07/31/03
My sister, her husband and I were in France July 7-16, 2003 to attend my friend's wedding in which I was the best man and witness (4 days in Paris, 5 days in Provence, 1 day French Riviera). We stayed in Rue Cler at Champ du Mars. As Rick says the rooms are small but quaint. Rue Cler was very clean and for a good reason...the garbagemen come very early in the morning, along with the vendors, all which makes for a very noisy and early morning wake up call. From our room we could see Cafe du Marche (we ate there on the first day and loved it). We had a great meal in Montmartre (touristy but we enjoyed it). We also went to places not listed by Rick. Au Bon Couscous in the Latin Quarter and Au Chien Qui Fume (the smoking dog) in Les Halles (excellent food-I had the rabbit). I hosted a bachelor party dinner at Nos Ancetres les Gaulois (listed by Rick) and had a great time. Maybe it had to do with the all you can drink red wine. Later that evening we drank pastis aboard a restaurant boat on the Seine with the Notre-Dame lit up in the background (we had lunch there the next day). Overall, Rick helped us economize our time and we encountered no anti-Americanism since we traveled like temporary locals. Merci Rick!
Sam Antonio <email>
Newport Beach, CA USA 07/27/03
Hotel de la Paix, Paris
We had the opposite experience of that of a recent poster while staying at the Hotel de la Paix in May 2003. The front desk staff were courteous and friendly (our first, but not our last, experience with French friendliness!), and our entire experience at the hotel was very positive. It was clean, comfortable, and the breakfast in the charming downstairs breakfast room was terrific. The front desk people offered to make a special phone call for us to find out if the Orsay would be open (sadly, it was closed every day during our stay because of the strikes), and every experience we had with the staff showed them to be helpful and courteous. We had made our reservations through the internet and received a prompt confirmation. We would encourage anyone to stay here--it was a lovely experience!
Jan DeVries <email>
Grand Rapids, MI USA 07/26/03
Please get a better map of Paris that includes the major sights. Otherwise it is fine.
Mark <email>
Esparto, CA USA 07/22/03
Grand Hotel Leveque-Paris. What a great experience!!! We stayed here for 6 nights in June, 2003. We would recommend this hotel to anyone. Got up early and had "great coffee" next door and watched all the locals setting up their stores for the day. Also close to everything. We will stay there again next time. Price was great!
Barbara
Eugene, OR USA 07/18/03
L'Etoile Park Hotel-Paris. Unfortunate experience. Beware! While vacationing in Paris with 3 friends, both our hotel rooms were broken into. The hotel safe was opened and all contents gone. This was an inside job, as the management, front desk clerk and all personnel were unable to help us. We changed hotels and continued on our vacation with a lot more caution. This was a very frightening and expensive experience.
MarleneC <email>
Sharon, MA USA 07/17/03
BEWARE THE ETOILE PARK HOTEL IN PARIS.
Never stay at the Etoile Park Hotel in Paris. Friends and I had our rooms broken into and room safe ransacked. Even worse than that, the hotel management was not at all helpful to us. When I explained that we had no money left to get us to the police station, they showed us on a Paris map how to walk to the Police Station. By the time the police got to the hotel to check for fingerprints, there were no prints --- not even our own. Linda R.
Linda R. <email>
Sharon, MA USA 07/17/03
Paris vacation
L'etoile Park Hotel - Paris - two years ago my friends and I had our room safe broken into. It had to have been an inside job because no forced entry. The four of us had two rooms and the same thing happened in each room. The hotel employees were no help to us at all. It was a frightening experience. Spent two days with police and American Embassy. Transferred to Paris Hilton and ended on a positive note. Paris is still wonderful.
Mary Hall <email>
Sharon, Ma USA 07/16/03
Hotel Londres-Eiffel, Hotel Le Tourville
We had reservations at the Hotel Londres-Eiffel but on arriving found that the AC was not working and the "King Size" bed was not even a "Queen" but rather a standard double (my wife and I have problems with small beds). This was not acceptable to us. Looking at the Rick's book I decided to walk a few blocks and try an alternative, the Hotel Le Tourville. The manager was very accommodating and was able to find a room for us for the 9 nine nights we needed. The room was charming, air conditioned, King size bed and the bath was very nice. And it was a very short walk to the Metro.
To be fair it was quite a bit more money but I suspect that was in part because we walked in off the street we paid "rack-rate". To us the extra cost was very much worth it (we were on vacation!). The room was not luxurious but definitely very nice. The Hotel Londres-Eiffel is not without it's own charms and I have to say the clerk was as helpful as he could be, showing us several rooms but none met our needs. They did refund our deposit (which somewhat surprised me). For what ever reason AC is tough for them to deliver. We were told that it should be working later that week but read the other messages on this page. AC is important in July!
John Linn <email>
USA 07/16/03
Paris-Hotel Motte Picquet
We just returned from Paris where we stayed three nights in Hotel de la Motte Picquet. We really enjoyed our experience! I had been wary of it because of an earlier post on this board, but after making the easy reservation we decided to go ahead with it. It was a wonderful experience! I believe that we also interacted most frequently with Guillame (mentioned below on another post) and he was so kind and helpful whenever possible! The room was clean and cheery with a television, refrigerator, telephone (side note: it's expensive to make even local calls without a calling card in Paris! 11 euros to call our airline and make sure it would be on time!) and very clean bathroom. It was small but a great price at 81 euros per night. Be sure to tell them you want the Rick Steve's rate, otherwise I think that the regular charge for a double is nearer to 150 euros for a double versus 81 euros for the same room. VERY NICE. Would stay there again and again!
We ate breakfast at Cafe du Marche each morning and enjoyed it. Even though it costs like 3 euros or so, try their fresh squeezed orange juice and a pain au chocolat (croissant with chocolate inside). It was a lovely place to enjoy the morning! La Verange and Phillipe are absolutely a delight. For the thousandth time, his chocolate cake is TO DIE FOR. Arrive early though, he will close up shop early if he gets full. Get there by 18:00(6pm) or else miss out on a delightful meal! Enjoy your time in Paris!
Amanda
Seattle, WA USA 07/11/03
The much maligned Hotel La Serre
On a third trip to Paris we (I) chose the La Serre after finding the Leveque booked. I'd seen complaints on this board over the year but picked it anyway because 1. it's been renovated, and 2. because the owner is Marie-Alice, Rick's pal in his books and shows. How bad could it really be? As it turns out, not bad at all but with surprisingly hostile rules. We were immediately admonished about food in the rooms. Seeing that we came with our five-month-old daughter, my wife was sharply instructed to feed her in the breakfast room. My wife nurses. In the rooms are many reminders of the rules including to take your bags downstairs the night before if you have to leave early in morning. One "earth-friendly" reminder says to let them know if you'll re-use towels and sheets to save water and and energy... "According to Rick Steeves!" is handwritten on the instructions. How to let them know? Pin the instructions to the towel or sheet -- which are framed and nailed to the wall. It's fine. No bugs. And many rooms open to the Rue Cler which is what we wanted - morning delivery trucks and all.
Doug
Portland, USA 07/09/03
Hotel du Champ de Mars/rue Cler
I spent 21 nights (May 1-22, 2003) at the Hotel du Champ de Mars, so I feel very comfortable in reporting that my experience was beyond the pleasure I could have imagined. The hosts, Stephane & Francoise were lovely to me, a single senior citizen, and, for the first 10 days, to my 24-year old grandson who stayed with me. Rick, your book is so accurate that I grabbed my (former) travel agent daughter by the arm, while visiting her in Vancouver, BC, June-July '03 insisting she buy a copy of your Britain guide since that family will go to Britain in August to put their daughter in college.
There isn't a wrong suggestion in the Paris guide from my beloved Cafe du Marche to Philippe at La Varangue who delightfully fed us. I carried pages torn out to lighten my load, walked to the metro stop & if closed, changed my plan for that day and had a delightful time anyway. I would very much like M/M Gourdal, the proprietors, to be publicly thanked for their wonderful, clean, safe, convenient hotel room overlooking the fascinating intersection of rue Cler & Champ de Mars. Even the post office experience was educational and extremely efficient, including economical suggestions from postal workers -- and I am not fluent in French, only so-so.
margaret ann <email>
St. Paul, MN USA 07/08/03
BAD HOTEL IN PARIS
Do NOT stay at the Hotel de la Paix in Paris. This hotel is located a few blocks from Rue Cler neighborhood. I had a very difficult time with the management and after FOUR confirmation phone calls, they still gave me the wrong room and even tried to penalize me with extra fees for arriving after a certain hour, even though I told them TWICE that I would be arriving late (I've never heard of a hotel doing this!). When I tried to state my case to the manager, they realized their mistakes but refused to compensate me with a discount OR did they ever try to give me the room I wanted and confirmed weeks in advance. THE CUSTOMER IS NOT ALWAYS RIGHT IN FRANCE! RICK - PLEASE TAKE THIS HOTEL OFF YOUR LIST OF REPUTABLE HOTELS IN PARIS. Save yourself the trouble and DO NOT book at the Hotel de la Paix in Paris.
Todd <email>
Washington, DC USA 07/08/03
Jogging or Running in Paris
Jogging and/or Walking in Paris. Our family recently spent 4 plus days in Paris during June and early July. I went out early in the morning each day on the Left Bank in the Jardins du Luxembourg area. I found the city streets and environs to be very amenable to running but found the parks to be less customer friendly and very inaccessible and imposing in the early mornings ....more specifically "all" major parks seemed to be closed with high fences at least until 8 AM in the morning...which is usually the end of my jogging schedule. Hence I would say much that has been written about jogging in the Luxembourg gardens and similar areas was not true...it seemed the security concerns of late had taken over with many people jogging on the sidewalks and streets and the parks not being available......something to be discussed with the Paris govt folks I would presume. I personally enjoy jogging amongst the flowers and gardens...like in Hyde Park in London and was not able to do that in Paris. What can we do as global citizens to change this ? Thanks.
Dale F. Weeks <email>
TALLAHASSEE, FL USA 07/07/03
Paris
I just spent 9 days in Paris the end of May. I stayed in an apartment with my sister in the Rue Cler area - web site here. http://www.aero-marine.com/index.html, after you get to the home page, click on hotels and tours, then Vacation Apartments, London and Paris, and then the Eiffel Garden Studio. This worked great for a long stay -plenty of room to stretch out and a great location. We ate meals outside on our private patio every chance we can get. Most hotels will not let you eat in the room. At $130 a night US dollars, it was not much more than hotels with the terrible exchange rate and we were SO much more comfortable. Plus they send you the keys ahead of time and you can go right in and sleep. With all the strikes going on, it helps to be flexible and willing to change your plans. We went to three museums that closed because of strikes, it was a hassle, but there is much fun to be had in Paris. You will be back. Michelle
Michelle <email>
Portland, OR USA 07/01/03
Hotel Londres-Eiffel
Stayed at the Hotel Londres-Eiffel last week of june 2003: no a/c, contrary to the hotel web page. Also, 'Tour Eiffel view room' means a view of the tip of the tower above neighboring rooftops. The room was tiny (as RS warned). Overall, not good value for 134 euros per night. (P.S. switched to Hotel Leveque after the first night--much better!)
W H <email>
San Jose, CA USA 07/01/03
Relais-Bosquet
I have stayed there a number of times in the past but this summer in particular they are battling low tourism due to the conflict in Iraq...thus they have lowered their prices and my group was even upgraded to their suites (newer, larger rooms) at the reduced prices. This won't always be the case, but for June of 2003 at least it was superbe. Our balconies all had views of the Eiffel Tower. It certainly is the best deal in town this summer!
Laurie
WI USA 06/30/03
Great hotel recommendation by Rick
Rick Steve's recommendation of Hotel Relais Bosquet was the best! Never stayed in such luxury at such a low price in Paris before. Cafe du Marche on Rue Cler is awesome day or night but beware of Cafe Bosquet on the corner across from hotel. Terrible service and only bad meal we've ever had in Paris. For breakfast go to the patisserie directly downstairs from hotel- best pastries in Paris!Loved staying in Rue Cler area with our family.
D <email>
Boca Raton, fl USA 06/30/03
Paris Airport Shuttle to Rue Cler
Airport Shuttle To Rue Cler is the fastest and relaxing. 8 euro by train and luggung luggage is very hard after taking an overnight flight to Paris. Cost ranges from 15 to 17 Euro per person depending on group size and is really worth the cost since you get gate to hotel door service. Safe your muscles and legs for touring.
Big Max <email>
Rochester, MI USA 06/28/03
Airport to Rue Cler on RER
Glenn - I feel your pain! I did it too, but had no problems with pickpockets. A good tip - there are trains on the RER line in from DeGaulle that are semi-express and only make (I think) one stop between DeGaulle and Gare Nord. TAKE THAT ONE! It will be virtually empty all the way in to Gare Nord and much easier to handle, but that line goes through some of the not-so-nice parts of the outer suburbs. if the train aint stopping in the bad neighborhoods, the rif-raf isn't getting on it. Watch the monitors in the station for when the express trains are due. But I'll agree - it can be a hassle with 2-3 bags to negotiate the stairs, escalaters, and faregates. Still - at 8 euros, I think its worth the hassle when compared to 50 or so for a cab. With the exchange rate going so far south, every penny saved on essentials like transportation is more that you have for the fun stuff and a good meal or two!
Mark <email>
Cleveland, OH USA 06/27/03
Airport to Hotel trip
On the map, it looked like a simple Metro ride, with one change of trains, to get from the airport to the Rue Clair area. In reality, we discovered that carrying suitcases, climbing up on to trains, changing stations an additional time, finding the right set of trains on the line we wanted, and waiting through the proverbial work stoppages were a lot more than we wanted. Add to that pickpockets (yes, we had a hoard of about 8 boys try to do their thing) and the out-of-order escalators, a shuttle or cab looked like a bargain. Unless you are traveling lite, don't take the train into town from the airport.
Glenn Bridger <email>
Portland, OR USA 06/26/03
Mike's Bike Tours Wonderful
We were in Paris June 4-7, 03 and took advantage of Mikes (formerly Bullfrog) Bike Tours (actually David runs it) and disagree with Rick's 2002 France book's characterization of this bike tour as a rolling frat party. We pictured a raucus group with beer in their fists. We found it to be wonderful, relaxing and fun, with all ages represented and very pleasant hosts. We did the Versailles tour -- biked to the RER, train to Versailles, biked the grounds, picknicked at the end of the Grand Canal, biked back to RER, train to Paris, biked back to Mike's. About 8 hours total. It's a wonderful day and the best way to see ALL of Versailles' 800 acres. We also had the opportunity to take their first Segway tour of Paris. It's the most fun you can have on two wheels and was the highlight of our trip. Expensive, but worth every penny. And we didn't fall off, like George Bush did. Book early. They fill up fast (only 6 Segways) There sites are www.mikesbiketoursparis.com and www.parissegwaytours.com. They respond quickly to email. We're mild-mannered Midwesterners in our 50's and our daughter and her husband are in their 20's. We all agreed this is a great tour and a teriffic English speaking refuge with cheap internet access.
Lyle Luzum <email>
Calmar, IA USA 06/25/03
Sleeping in Paris
My husband, our adult daughter, and I just returned from a 9-day trip to Paris. We rented an apartment from Cooper Paris Flats and were very pleased with the experience. The apartment was clean, well-equipped, and in a good location. It was a real plus being able to do laundry in our own washer/dryer. And the weekly rate includes utilities. This was our first vacation apartment rental and we highly recommend it.
Sandra Winborne <email>
Sedona, AZ USA 06/24/03
Hotel des Grandes Ecoles
My husband and I stayed at the Hotel Des Grandes Ecoles in September 2001 and found it to be wonderful. The staff was friendly and helped us retrieve a credit card that we had left at the Orsay. We thought the hotel was perfect and have booked six nights for this coming September. Now I m concerned regarding the bedbugs in the post below and am wondering if anyone else has experienced problems. I may switch to another hotel rather than risk ruining our long awaited vacation.
Vivian <email>
Orinda, CA USA 06/23/03
Hotel de Londres Eiffel is fine
We stayed at the Hotel de Londres Eiffel for two nights this June. Yes, it was hot and there was no air conditioning. But, they had a fan in the room which is more than some hotels have. We did not see any bugs. The room and bathroom were very clean. The rooms were decorated nicely. The staff was very helpful. They helped us figure out which bus and metro lines were running during the strike. I saw them help many guests, including doing some special research on jazz clubs for one lady.
Karen
Denver, CO USA 06/23/03
Hotel de Londres Eiffel not so charming
Had a reservation at Hotel de Londres-Eiffel for June. Made the reservation a couple of months ahead of time and was told that the hotel had air conditioning in each room. Well, of course when we got there it was 88 and very humid. But, there was no air conditioning - even though I confirmed that there would be 48 hours prior to arrival. They said there was a problem installing it and it would be on at a later date - but they had been advertising air conditioning for a few months - before it was installed. Anyway, being hot is one thing but ants are another. The room was small but seemed clean. Upon awakening, there were hundreds of ants in the bathroom doorway. When I quietly mentioned it to the desk clerk, he loudly told me there were no bugs and would not send anyone to check. Anyway, we checked out and found another hotel (a chain not in Rick's book) with no bugs and very friendly staff. The men at the desk during the day and at night were not very helpful or even nice. Other people were not happy with their rooms as well - a few weren't given the rooms they reserved and confirmed. I've stayed in Rick recommended hotels before and the descriptions are usually very accurate and have never had any problems...
SF, CA USA 06/21/03
Hotel des Grandes Ecoles, Paris - BEDBUGS!!!
This hotel was as lovely as the guidebook says, and Madame (Maman) was adorable. UNTIL the bedbugs showed up! We stayed for a week in June. The next to last night I turned on a light at 2 AM. Bugs were on the bed, the wallpaper was moving, spots on the furniture were moving. My husband and I went on military maneuvers and killed all we could find. The ones that left a big red smear were the give-away - bedbugs! Arrgghh! Here is a portrait of our little roommates (the photo is dead-on) http://medent.usyd.edu.au/fact/bedbugs.html. We told Madame in the morning and the maid sprayed the room. We should have moved to another hotel for our last night, but after a month of vacation, given the unexpected heat and the amount of wine and gifts we had in the room, we just weren't up to it. Despite the spraying and slathering ourselves with OFF, our last night was the same thing. Apparently, our bodies had finally been sensitized to the previously unknown toxin, because we had dime to quarter size red, itchy patches everywhere. I counted 22 bites just on my right hand and wrist! Madame had no useful response to this. Nor was there any adjustment in our bill. This was a horrible experience, and the hotel seemed unlikely to do anything useful about the bugs. They had to know - the little black spots that were on the sheets in the morning are supposed to be a dead giveaway. My suspicion is that this problem is worst on the top floor, where we were staying. We have been VERY pleased with the rest of the recommendations in the Guide, and always swear by Steves' books.
Shelly <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 06/20/03
Paris - Hotel Royal Phare
Stayed at Hotel Royal Phare for a few days in May, the room was small but clean, quiet, and had everything we needed. The big plus for us was that it was non-smoking (very hard to find in Paris!). It was also directly across the street from the metro station, making it very convenient. We got our breakfast on Rue Cler each morning. If you have a consecutive-day Eurail pass, know that you can use it to get from the airport to the city center. Follow Rick's advice and get a museum pass!!! It was absolutely awesome to walk pass the 3-4 hour lines and enter Versailles, Pompidou, and Orsay without wait. Buy the pass at a metro station before you reach any of the museums. At the St-Chapelle, make sure you go upstairs, it's worth the climb!
Sonia <email>
Saskatoon, SK Canada 06/19/03
Paris
Paris..... My sister and I recently returned from our first trip to France. In Paris we stayed at the Hotel Muguet ( Email: muguet@wanadoo.fr). Our twin room was the nicest of the 7 places we stayed during our 17 days in Italy and France. Our room even had a view of the Eiffel Tower. The room was very clean and seemed newly renovated. The bathroom was a generous size and the soft towels were changed daily. There is an elevator. One of the ladies at the front desk seemed grumpy, but the other lady was very nice. The location is very close to Rue Cler and a short walk to the Eiffle Tower or Les Invalides. It is on a side street and is fairly quiet. With a great location and at 103 Euros a night (Breakfast is extra), I would definitely recommend the Hotel Muguet. We waited for the Yellow Hop On bus (Lópen Tours) at the stop with their sign and route marker, but we could see the busses were turning about 2 blocks before the marked stop. We ended up taking the Red Hop On Bus (Les Cars Rouges) with a more limited route. We took the Boat Tour with Vedettes de pont Neuf which was very nice at twilight. While Rick mentions spending 4 hours at Versailles (2 hrs palace & 2 hrs gardens), we ended up spending 8 ½ hours at Versailles and still did not see it all. We took a guided tour of the Palace that took us to the Opera house. The guided tour is the only way to see certain sections of the Palace and I would highly recommend taking the tour. We had a most pleasant lunch in the gardens and thoroughly enjoyed the Colonnade, the Grand and Petite Trianon as well as the Queen's Hamlet and just walking through the grounds. We purchased a Museum Pass and walked right by the long line waiting to get into the Orsay Museum. We followed Rick's "Historic Paris Walk" and found it easy to follow and extremely interesting. Notre Dame was incredible, but my heart went to Sainte-Chapelle!! We went to the Eiffle Tower at night and found no lines to ride up to the second floor or top. We had a very nice dinner at the Cafe le Bosquet and good lunches at Café du Marche (both recommended by Rick). Even though we had less time in Paris than planned due to the transportation strike, we managed to make good use of our time thanks in large part to Rick's book on Paris.
LA Meharry <email>
Vancouver, WA USA 06/17/03
Hôtel de la Porte Dorée, Paris
We just returned from 11 days in France and except for 4 nights in Paris, we did not have reservations. We had a rental car and had no dificulty finding a hotel with an opening. In fact, some of the waiters at restaurants told us tourist traffic was way down. That was o.k. with us as we tried to go to non-tourist hotels.
We did make advance reservations in Paris before we left the states at Hôtel de la Porte Dorée 273, avenue Daumesnil 75012 Paris Tél: 01 43 07 56 97 Fax: 01 49 28 08 18. The daughter-in-law is from Sacramento and most of the family at the desk speak English. The subway is 75 steps from the door, McDonalds is across the street and it only cost 62 Euro a night for two. It is a two star, but should be rated three stars.
D <email>
Camas, WA USA 05/08/03
On-line streaming video of Paris
For those of you who have just returned from Paris and can't get enough of it, I recommend going to www.123cam.com. This is a website that has links to streaming video cameras all over the world to include multiple places in Paris. For instance, you can observe the Eiffel Tower change before your eyes as the sun rises and sets, see the traffic of the Champs Elysees, see pedestrians in La Places des Vosges, and watch the Seine river flow. All this in real-time. Of course, it helps if you have high-speed internet connection. Otherwise, if you have dial-up internet the video may appear choppy. Enjoy!
Jonathan Park <email>
Puyallup, WA USA 06/03/03
Great trip
I returned from Paris last week and stayed at the Hotel Sansonnet mentioned in the Marais section in the book. The hotel was clean and very quiet. We were at the top floor however with no elevator and it was quite a climb at night. The museum pass worked great for us. The only problem was the Musee D'Orsay workers were on strike and we could not see any Impressionist paintings which was a great disappointment. We also took day trips to Versailles, Chartres and Giverny and the book was very helpful on these trips.
Jean <email>
Carle Place, NY USA 06/03/03
One Great Week in Paris
I just returned yesterday from 6 wonderful, relaxing days in Paris. I must recommend Hotel Champs de Mars. The room was lovely, clean and quite large. The staff was most friendly. I used Blue Van to get me back and forth to the airport, except a small glitch with a brand new driver on my way in from the airport, the service was very satisfactory. For the nitty gritty, if you are a fan of impressionist paintings, you MUST make it to Givernay. I can't say enough about the gardens, just brilliant, you can see Monet's paintings everywhere you look. If you are photographer I found the following landmarks are covered in scaffolding and unavailable for that perfect shot; Notre Dame, Some street side parts of the Louvre; and . Final note, a word to the single female travelers, the men love to flirt. The first two days were most flattering when I was asked out to dinner at least twice a day, after that it got to be rather old. I can't figure out what triggered the men to approach me so very frequently, I just enjoyed the attention. So if you're planning a visit to Paris, enjoy the weather, people, sites, and atmosphere, and have a fabulous trip, I did!
Sandra <email>
Beaverton, OR USA 06/03/03
Hotel du Champ de Mars
Enjoyed our 10 nights at the Hotel du Champ de Mars just off the Rue Cler. We were impressed with the decor and the excellent location. At 74 Euros per night, it was also an exceptional bargain! Francoise and Stephane were gracious hosts and we look forward to staying with them again.
Don & Marilyn Steiner <email>
Honolulu, HI USA 06/03/03
Hotel Beaugency, strike, woman traveller
Just came back from Paris. Hotel Beaugency in the Rue Clair district was just great for a lone woman traveller in Paris. It provided a nice quiet room with very clean bathrooms in a safe interesting neighborhood handy to the metro. The hotel staff was courteous and recommended that you call ahead to the various sites to make sure it was open because of the strike. They provided me with metro/ city map and gave me recommended ways to go to my Corden Blue cooking class. By the way your suggestion to always reconfirm the hotel reservation was on the dot. I came across an American couple who didn't have the room they thought they had faxed in a reservation for, because they didn't reconfirm that yes they did get the room they had requested and yes they would take the room. I was impressed that the hotel staff was courteous and even lined up another good hotel near by for the couple. I bumped into the American couple later..and they were happy with the alternate hotel choice.
Edith
Honolulu, HI USA 06/03/03
Paris - Rue Cler
I stayed in Rue Cler's Hotel Leveque on my 8 day trip to Paris in January 2003. Overall, Rick Steves in on the ball. Here are some things in his book that I enjoyed the most: 1] Rue Cler is an ideal place to stay. It's not 'touristy' and it's idealy located. 2] The underground Metro is fabulous. I did not need a taxi or a rental car, ever! Invest in a $10 packet of ten Metro tickets. It's well worth it...it's actually a steal! 3] "www.pariswalkingtours.com" was the highlight of my trip. This is a 2 hour long guided tour of Paris' historical places. Everyday, there's a tour of the different parts of town such as Montmartre, Marais, and St Germaine. The tour-guides have some sort of formal French history education. I cannot emphasize this enough! 4] Museum Pass is a must. I'm sure you've heard this before, but it's well worth mentioning again. 5] When in doubt, refer to Rick Steves' Paris book.
Jonathan Park <email>
Puyallup, WA USA 06/02/03
The Hotel L'Esperance in Paris is a steal for a two star hotel. It is worth the third star. Very convenient in the university area. The owner is a hoot!
Tony Ambrose <email>
Louisville,, KY USA 06/02/03
website
I went to the website that Terrie mentions below but I could not find where the link was to current/updates on strikes. Can anyone help? Maybe I am doing something wrong. Thanks. Laurie
Laurie
WI USA 05/31/03
Beware floating bed!
I've usually stayed in Paris in the Rue Cler area, but last summer, I travelled on my own and stayed in the Marais area, on the Place des Voges. I loved the area -- Great duck meal at Chez Robert, and a ghastly duck meal at Au Bourguignon du Marais (both in Rick's book). I stayed at the Hotel de la Place des Voges. Warning: do not book the room at the top of the lobby stairs even as a single. It is tiny with a "floating" loft bed, which I discovered after being bumped from my earlier room due to renovation.
Shirley Hogsett
Kirkland, WA USA 05/30/03
paris strikes
For those of you traveling to Paris in the near future-this site has current info on the strikes to help you plan your itinerary. www.metropoleparis.com Just wanted to help out "Paris newbies"--I was caought in a strike on my first trip there--it wasn't awful--I made alot of new friends -- BUT sometimes it helps to know in advance to save a little money for luxuries + fun stuff!
Terrie Blazek
chicago, IL USA 05/27/03
France transit strikes
Rick - I've seen a few comments in here (including my own) about the labor problems in France of late. It might be a good idea to post scheduled transit strikes in your update section once one is announced. This would be an invaluable aid for travellers in scheduling their sightseeing plans around the strike, as well as giving those who are scheduled to arrive/depart France on a strike day a heads-up so they can make transportation arrangments in advance and not run the risk of getting stuck somewhere or incurring extra expenses (as I did in getting a hotel by CGD the night before the last one). Just a thought!
Mark Herron <email>
Cleveland, OH USA 05/27/03
Paris
My wife and I just returned from 8 nights in Paris, with our two twenty-something kids. We referred to RS Paris daily, relying on it for sound advice on sightseeing, restaurants, etc. I don't know how many times we said, "Rick says to do/go . . . " Some general impressions: Hotel Beaugency - outstanding rue Cler location; convenient to metro; smallish but adequate rooms with clean, average sized baths; large windows allow fresh air and light; secure, quiet environment; breakfast (included) was convenient; staff was fine overall (some "attitude" from housekeeping/kitchen staff). La Varangue - highly recommend. Phillipe enjoys his customers, a great host. Go early (@6:30 pm), it's a small, casual place. Paris Airport Service worked well for us to/from CDG. 50 euro each way for four. Didn't need museum passes. Lucked out I guess. No lines at the Louvre, Invalides, Rodin. Recommend picnicking at Rodin gardens (1 euro). No anti-American sentiment observed or experienced anywhere.
Riley Erwin <email>
Atlanta, GA USA 05/25/03
Strikes June 2
Strikes in Paris are scheduled AGAIN for June 2. Ugh. That is if they don't work out a deal in the meantime. It's front page news. But you can always take the bus tours which will get you around for 15-30 for a couple of days and if you plan well a lot of great sites/sights are clustered and easy to walk to and from. Start working on your stamina now :-) and bring plenty of water!
Laura <email>
Paris, France 05/24/03
Sleeping in Paris & Parisian Attitudes
We just returned from 8 fabulous days in Paris, thanks to the excellent suggestions in Rick Steves' Paris 2003. One alternatve sleeping suggestion not in the Guide: We decided we wanted to stay in an apartment, so we could have some meals at "home." We stayed in a delightful studio on rue des Innocents (Metro: Chatelet) which was walking distance from practically everything. (Thus we were only minimally affected by the transit strike.) To contact the owner, Eric Guillaume, directly, E-mail him at: parisinnocents@aol.com. He will send you information, photos, etc. of the apartments he has available. We paid 800 Euros for 8 nights, and he let us pay in U.S. dollars because of the expense of buying Euros in the states (as well as, I suspect, because he was well aware that the dollar had weakened). The apt. was spotless, very well equipped, and Eric was 300% honest. You send a $500 check in advance to secure the apt. (he doesn't cash it), and he returns it to you when you check out. This is only for folks who don't need a lot of hand-holding in Paris though, as there's no one "on-site" to answer questions, give directions, etc. Please don't worry about "anti-American sentiment." Parisians were uniformly polite and helpful. I think this concern is nothing more than grist for the "Crossfire" types on TV. If they'd be nice to us (Texans!), no one else should be worried!
Laura Justiss <email>
Dallas, TX USA 05/20/03
Vaux le Vicomte
I just read Pat's 10/14/02 entry saying Vaux le Vicomte was a disappointment....It was one of the highlights of our trip! We loved it! Thank you, Rick and Steve, for listing it in your book.
Susan Russell <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 05/18/03
Eat at the Maya
While in Paris, my mom & I followed THE book to a tee. Thanks Rick and Steve... we had a blast! We ended up eating at a great little Italian restaurant, the Maya off of the Place de Republique, 3 nights in a row after an unfortunate lunch of steak & frites! By the 3rd night, we were getting kissed on the cheek like we were old family friends! The Maya is a MUST!
Becky <email>
Midlothian, TX USA 05/15/03
Enjoying Paris
One our most favorite memories while in Paris, sitting in a cafe along the Stravinsky fountain, across from the Pompidou center eating crepes and sipping on hot chocolates. It was late in the day so the sun was intensely peeking out from the clouds and making the fountain gleam. I have that image imbedded in my mind. I think the simplest things can be the most enjoyable.
Sam Oxford
Clayton, MO USA 05/15/03
Paris Ups & Downs
My husband and I retured yesterday from Paris... after a combo of best and worst days to be in Paris (or our best and worst LUCK?). Half of our time in the city was severely affected by a strike that shut down public transport and closed museums for one whole day... and the Metro was still down, and museums late opening the following day. We were not prepared for the extra walking (and extra money spent on taxis)... so several of our planned visits were left undone. Warning, if you're planning for Paris soon: they said more strikes were planned through May & June. (Don't know where to find out the specific dates?) We just wished we'd been aware so we could've planned differently... But we did have some lovely/lively moments: delicious dinner at Au Petit Tonneau... the church of St. Severin in the Latin Quarter (we preferred it to Notre Dame, thanks esp. to some folks who stood in the shadows singing hymns and chants)... the Eiffel Tower at twilight with no line whatsoever... the Batobus hop-on hop-off Seine boat (saved our feet when the Metro was not running!). The Hotel Prince (www.hotel-paris-prince.com) was a decent option a block from Rue Cler. We saw folks with their Rick Steves books everywhere we went... and we saw some "ugly Americans" without "The Book." It was fun to flash The Book and immediately have something in common with other "non-ugly" tourists. LOL Thanks, Rick!
Nikki B. <email>
(Americans in) London, UK 05/15/03
Paris Sights
We took in a concert at the St. Chapelle cathedral, Vivaldi was perfect for the setting. Tickets were only about $18.00. Don't miss the Montmartre area. Lapin Agile makes for a cute photo op. and the streets surrounding Place du Tertre are quite fun too.
Sam Oxford
Clayton, MO USA 05/14/03
Just returned from a wonderful week in Paris. Stayed in Rue Cler area at the Hotel Empereur. The hotel was as described in the book. I thought it was just fine however for my needs. The bathroom was big, the bed comfortable, and CNN on the TV. Very convenient to the Latour Mauburg Metro stop. I would definitely stay there again. The front desk staff is very friendly and helpful. Excellent paninis at the crepe/panini walkup place right across from the Metro. Metro and RER are easy to navigate, even from De Gaulle airport. Get the carnet of ten tickets. Caret orange is not worth it unless you use it for places like Versailles and the airport, and then only if you go and return on the days that the pass is good. Otherwise, since so many things are close by and a nice pleasant walk, you'll lose money on the Carte Orange. The museum pass is a must-buy for anyone who likes museums.
Mark <email>
Cleveland, OH USA 05/14/03
Paris Flea Market: St. Ouen
To get to the biggest flea market in Paris via the metro, the Purple/#4 line will take you all the way up to the Porte de Clingnancourt stop. Once you get above ground, you will see a lot of people and vendors milling about. There are a lot of people from all around the world. You can feel a little overwhelmed when you first come up and start heading toward the actual flea market. The first stands you see are those selling t-shirts, shoes, clothes, and touristy items. The actual flea market is very peaceful and quiet with dozens and dozens of wonderful shops and stalls selling vintage and antique items.
When you come up from the metro, turn right and walk down about 2 city blocks through all the touristy vendors (ask if you are unsure: Ou est Rue des Rosiers? This street runs through the heart of the markets).
There are actually about 13 markets. Marche Dauphine, Marche Vernaison, Marche Biron, and Marche Michelet are the ones I visited. Most of the stalls sell or will give you a very handy map to the market. Each aisle is numbered, and each stall has a number.
It is well worth it but I recommend you go early and leave early. My step-mom and sister stayed at the market until about 3pm and they felt very uncomfortable walking back to the metro due to the streets becoming even more crowded. Tip: Don't make eye contact with the street vendors and you will not have a problem passing without being bothered by somebody trying to get you to buy a necklace or trinket.
There are websites about the market (google "Marche du Puces") Have a great time. A great inexpensive place to have lunch is Pizza Napoli on the Rue des Rosiers.
C. Keathley
St. Louis , MO USA 05/12/03
Paris in the Springtime!
My Mom and I just returned from 9 days in Paris, Venice, & Florence. We stayed several nights at Hotel Leveque on Rue Cler in Paris. We had a smaller room than the last time I stayed there and the price was higher (probably due to the Euro) but it is still my favorite Paris Hotel. I love Rue Cler and it was just as charming as I remembered. My Mom was wowed with the location, so close to the Eifel tower and just a few minutes walk from the river. The staff all spoke English and were very helpful.
We used the shuttle service www.airport-connection.com from the airport to the hotel. And then used the shuttle arranged by Hotel Leveque back to the airport. It was 16 Euros per trip and so worth it. For one thing, we had great friendly drivers who pointed out sights and you arrive above ground where you can see some great stuff on the way to the hotel. Not to mention not having to deal with your luggage.
Also, we ate at the Asian takeout place across from the hotel and it was delicious. But my favorite food is the pastries at the bakery across from Cafe du Marche and the picnic supplies from Rue Cler.
Anyway, go to Paris, use the book and walk everywhere and when you get tired hop on the metro. Another great trip to my favorite city!
Lori <email>
Richardson, TX USA 05/12/03
Second Honeymoon
We just returned from 11 days in Europe. Thanks to Rick Steves Paris guidebook, we experienced an amazing trip! We never went anywhere without the book.
We bought the museum pass and it paid for itself in a day. The line at the Musee d'Orsay was very long, but we walked right in once flashing our pass (made us feel like royalty).
We ate dinner twice at L'Empasse (in the Marais) and highly recommend it (thanks to Rick). Francois was the most gracious hostess and once she knew our connection to Rick Steves, she became even more attentive. She had not yet seen Rick's review, so we showed it to her and she was very flattered. We enjoyed our dinner so much that night, we decided to eat there again on our last night in Paris.
We stayed at the Hotel Leveque during our last night. The room was small and the bathroom was even more so. Despite the size, the hotel was clean and in a perfect location.
We were fascinated by the Rue Cler and all it had to offer. We had one of our best meals at the Cafe Marche (another Rick Steves recommendation).
We also didn't think we'd be able to pack everything into a carry-on, but we managed just fine (packing light is the key).
Rick's tours of the museums were informative and made it easy to find the artwork. The only disappointment we had on the trip was the American Museum in Giverny. Mary Cassatt is one of my favorites and I was sad to see only one of her paintings exhibited. On the whole, if you're pressed for time, skip this museum. You are better off going to Musee Marmottan in Paris.
T
VA USA 05/12/03
First-time Paris Report
DO NOT rent a car in Paris. Taxis plentiful and reasonable.
Took all the stuff that was recommended. Anti-bacterial wipe, toilet seat covers, and extra TP. Don't bother. Unless you are really roughing it, everything is just like the States. No bathroom horror stories.
Parisians are not necessarily rude, just seemed very reserved. They keep to themselves, no eye contact. However, if you need assistance and initiate the contact, they are very helpful.
Museum passes are the way to go. Even if you don't see enough museums to justify the cost, avoiding the lines makes it worth it.
Hotel du Champ de Mars in Paris is exactly as posted. Small rooms, owners that never smile, and a great location. Would stay there again.
Tour guide in Paris, Michael Osman (parisfind@aol.com)is more than worth his fee. Kept museum tours time efficient and very knowledgeable of the buildings and contents. Unless you have DAYS for the museums, take advantage of his service.
TRG
Omaha, NE USA 05/08/03
Romantic Honeymoon
We had a wonderful stay at a cozy, nicely decorated hotel (Hotel de Londres Eiffel) with a romantic view from our room of the Eiffel Tower (only 1 1/2 blocks away!). It made our honeymoon magical. The proprietors were very hospitable and treated us like family. They made great recommendations during our stay and were very friendly and appreciative to us as Americans. We were very near the Rue Cler area (great shopping experience) and very close to bus and Metro stops. Great restaurant (and aromas) next door, too! We really enjoyed our visit in Paris from this central location. We went everywhere we wanted to, without having to go very far. We'll definitely return for our anniversaries and other visits to Paris--a lovely place all around.
Tom and Dorbina <email>
Lafayette, CA USA 05/03/03
Paris: Rue Cler & Shoes
Just returned from a weekend in Paris, stayed in the Rue Cler and had the best experience ever. Rue Cler serves as a intimate neighborhood experience and makes the large city of Paris seem manageable. The Parisians were practically groveling, if you can imagine that! They were so happy to have Americans back in their city. Apparently the unofficial boycott hurt business. I was the lone customer in most small boutiques I entered.
One funny incident: My sister and I stumbled upon the Mephisto shoe store on the Rue Cler, which by the way is well worth a stop, with great prices. I had my RS French phrase book out, trying to speak the language, and the owner spotted it. He didn't speak much English but he was fluent in two words: "Rick Steves." He went on and on in French, we smiled and nodded even though we couldn't understand a word. We parted friends, with some new summer sandals at a bargain price.
Caron McCune <email>
Amsterdam, NL 05/03/03
clothing stolen at Hotel Leveque
Just back from 2 weeks in France, where we had a wonderful time, however, a note of caution. Our friends stayed at the Hotel Leveque on the rue Cler, and sadly reported that they both had clothing stolen from their rooms.
Helaine
Jacksonville, Fl USA 05/01/03
Hotel Kensington in Paris
We stayed at Hotel Kensington. It is centrally located and you can walk down to the Eiffel Tower or just go for a walk at Rue Cler. The room or the service was not exceptionally good but considering the fact that we were tourists and were not planning on spending too much time in the hotel room it was ok. I would recommend staying here as it is cheap and centrally located. A tip: Please book 3 to 4 months ahead as this hotel gets booked really fast.
V <email>
USA 05/01/03
Thanks!
Even though we did not know French we managed really well with Rick Steve's guide. We followed all his recommendations on restaurants, shopping n sighseeing and had a fabulous trip over all. Most Parisians even recognised his book and were happy to have us over. Thanks Rick for the excellent coverage.
V <email>
USA 05/01/03
Cheaper hotels in Paris
We were trying to keep costs down and didn't want to spend over $90 a night, which lets out most Rue Cler hotels. We stayed in the 8th district at the Europe Liege for our first three nights: 84 E, including breakfast. Including breakfast might have been a special deal just for us because I showed them that on the internet it said complimentary breakfast. Staff was very friendly, spoke good English. Breakfast included coffee, tea, or chocolate, a croissant and a crusty roll. Also on the table if you wanted, yogurt, juice, fruit cocktail, cheese, corn flakes, boiled eggs. We thought it a great value. The Leige metro stop was just around the corner. Hotel had BBC and elevator.
Walking around this neighborhood we found another **hotel for only 46 E. Stayed at the Hotel Vintimille for two nights. Staff also friendly. We had a larger room, very sunny with a little balcony, and we looked out the bathroom window to someone else's terrace, which was full of flowers. Hotel had elevator and CNN. The Place de Clichy metro stop was only a block away, and there was also a nearby internet cafe.
My husband loved the Agora restaurant on nearby Rue Amsterdam for its great value on the lamb chop dinner. Several little storefront markets nearby to get fresh fruit. Also several bakeries, one of which had delicious almond pastry.
We spent a few hours in the Rue Cler neighborhood two different days. It's relaxed, lovely, but definitely more the tourist scene than where we stayed. However, if you're on a budget, you might consider staying at one of these hotels, then just hop the metro. Personally, I'd rather save 20 -50 euros a night.
We had lovely weather. We were gone Apr 6 - 25, (only the last 5 days in Paris) and it was in the 70's most days. Only one morning of drizzle the whole time. No anti-Americanism. Only one semi-rude Parisienne woman. Rick's Paris guide was very helpful, and were so glad we got the Museum Pass, as we heard of other tourists waiting 2 hours to get in, and also saw those poor souls in the long lines.
Karen Anderson <email>
Clinton, WA USA 04/29/03
Regarding Metro Tickets
Regarding the confusion with metro tickets. My wife and I travelled to Paris in early April. We purchased the Carnet of 10 tickets. As soon as we got outside of the metro on the last stop I got into the habit of simply tearing the used ticket in half - this way you don't confuse used tickets with new tickets.
Mark <email>
Durham, NC USA 04/28/03
Paris pickpockets
I became the target of a pickpocket at the Louvre Rivoli metro station. I found myself being blocked by two boys from getting on the train quickly. I turned and my eyes met the 35 year old women with her hand in my front pocket. My wallet was in a zippered front pocket that had thwarted her attempt. I hit her arm and she started yelling at me as if I had wronged her. I explained to the others on the train that she was a pickpocket. But, I think there is an code of ethics that the pickpockets are tolerated by the Parisians because they only target tourists. There are plenty of elderly ladies not protecting their purses and men not wearing money belts that didn't seem worried about this crime at the station. So, either don't openly carry your Rick Steves' Paris guidebook or be careful. We enjoyed staying at the Ibis Versailles. The ride in to Paris on the RER is easy and the evenings spent around the place du Marche seemed relaxing and much less touristy than our busy days of sightseeing in Paris.
Richard Stryker <email>
Saint Paul, MN USA 04/27/03
Some Versailles hotel web sites
A few of the hotels listed under Versailles now have websites:
Hôtel le Cheval Rouge: http://perso.club-internet.fr/domecky/ANGLAIS.htm
Hôtel du Palais: http://www.versailleshotelreservation.com
Hôtel d'Angleterre: http://www.hotel-angleterre-versailles.fr
David
Golden, CO USA 04/25/03
Keep Your Metro Tickets
A word of warning about using the Metro in Paris. My wife and I completely missed what Rick Steves said about keeping the ticket with you when traveling on the Paris Metro (subway). We got so frustrated trying to get through the turnstiles with tickets that had been used before, that this particular day we tossed the ticket into the trash bin just on the other side of the barrier. We were going to the Bercy area so it involved changing to different Metro routes. As we were going to the next stop, a group of Metro Police stopped us and asked for our tickets. After explaining to them what we did and confessing that we were stupid tourists they took pity on us and only fined one of us (30 Euros). I was glad that I stopped at an ATM and got some more cash, otherwise it would have cost another 22 Euros to use a credit card to pay the fine. All went well after that and it makes for a great story to tell at home. Later, we started noticing signs on the Metro warning to keep your tickets with you!
Terry & Lynn <email>
Weeping Water, NE USA 04/23/03
Paris in Mid-April
Lodging: Hotel Kennsington - Rue Cler Rules! Great location and value. The bathrooms are a bit small but decent rooms. The entire staff is great except for the night guy on Sundays/Mondays who is obnoxious - ignore him and deal with the others.
Food: Pricey but good. Pick a restaurant and go for it. Great chocolate mousse. Only negative was way too much smoking, many cafes do not have a no smoking section.
Sights: Get a Museum Pass! Didn't have to wait in any lines and saved about 20 euros. Be sure and see the Eiffel Tower, Napoleon's Tomb, the Mesopotamia wing at the Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, Sainte-Chapelle, crypts below Notre Dame, Cluny Museum, Versailles (all of it), boat tour at night(Bateaux Mouches is best), garden at the Rodin Museum, military museum at des Invalides (World War II wing).
Skippable: interior of Sacre Cour (outside was great), interior of Notre Dame (outside is breathtaking), and Pantheon (in the Latin Quarter).
Transportation: The Metro is great but the buses are confusing.
Mood: No anti-americanism or pickpockets.
Day trip: EuroDisney is fun (Pirates of the Caribbean is better here than in the US), but most of it is not up to Orlando standards. Park food was good. You must have a separate ticket on the RER to get to EuroDisney, not just a metro card.
Marc <email>
greenwich , ct USA 04/20/03
Continental Airlines at Paris CDG
Here's a minor correction for Rick's 2003 Paris book. Continental Airlines is in Terminal 2A of the Paris CDG airport, not 2C as stated in the book. They have probably moved since Rick last researched this. It wasn't a big deal. Check the monitors when you arrive at the airport!
Bob Borgstede <email>
St. Louis, MO USA 04/20/03
Paris in the Spring!
My boyfriend and I took a 7 day vacation to Paris the last week of March (my birthday week!). I borrowed a LOT of travel books from the library but bought only one, Rick Steves. We took it everywhere we went in Paris and it was indispensable. We supplemented information from other books about areas not covered in Ricks book, but his self guided tours and museum information were the most helpful. We stayed at the recommended Hotel Lyon Mulhouse and we would definitely stay there again. It was cheap, the room was a good size, spotless, and best of all, just a few steps from the metro station. The Carte Orange and Museum Pass were must-haves. We went to so many places we wouldn't have even thought of going to becuase it was covered by the pass. And when we were exhausted at the end of the day, we just hopped on the metro without wondering if we should walk instead of waste a ticket. The weather was wonderful and the people were wonderful too. Thanks Rick, with your help we had a terrific trip we will always remember!
Christine
San Jose, CA USA 04/18/03
Hotel Medicis
We just returned from Paris and we really enjoyed traveling with Rick! We stayed at the Hotel Medicis (p. 114 in the 2003 guide). Though it almost always seems Rick is right-on, the "soiled linoleum charm" description of this hotel should be demoted to "soiled linoleum" only. We noticed no charm, other than that of Denis and his awesome cat. Perhaps I should have expected less for 31 euros a night, but when I arrived with five (much) older family members, including my grandmother, I was mortified at having booked this for all of them! There was only one shower for all four floors and one of the bathrooms for an entire floor had neither a lock nor a working light. My biggest concern is that the layout of the hotel would likely mean that, in the event of a fire, escape would be impossible. My advice: if money is a major concern, the Hotel Medicis is a (barely) passable option, but be prepared for the squalor you will encounter, and don't forget 120 feet of braided rope to use in case of fire.
Rebekah <email>
Grand Rapids, MI USA 04/15/03
In defense of the rue Cler
I want to add one more thing...I was on the rue Cler (my 2nd trip there) at about the same time as Walt, but somehow I missed all the trash and doggie doo he described. I thought it was clean, safe and charming. And I might also add good shopping. My husband bought several pairs of Mephistos at the Magfred shoe store for only $135 a pair. He bought the EXACT same shoes in America for $285 a pair. The Mephisto sandles I bought only cost $62. What a deal! I'll stay on the rue Cler any day!
Terry <email>
Peru, IN USA 04/15/03
Paris trip
I just read about Jane's trip...we too stayed at the Hotel du Champs de Mar on the rue Cler in April and LOVED both. The Blue Van was great for us, too. It was so easy to use, especially traveling with children. The French were absolutely FABULOUS to us. Although we tried not to look like tourists (I never left the hotel without my scarf!) people quickly figured it out since the high school French doesn't go too far. People said things to us like, "America...good, very good!" and "America! (thumbs up sign). My daughter tried to find some clothes that screamed French, but the department stores were filled with clothing covered in English writing, pictures of American locations, American flags and even more surprisingly, a large number of fabrics in American Army fatique prints. They didn't seem anti-American at all. Had it not been for the international CNN on our hotel TV, we would not have known there was a war going on. The French people were so kind and gracious (not to mention patient with our language attempts) that my heart ached when it was time to leave after 10 short days. This was our second trip to Paris in 6 months and already I can't wait to return. Last fall, as I walked out of the Gare du Nord, my first glimpse of Paris actually took my breath away. My love affair with Paris continues.
Terry <email>
Peru, IN USA 04/15/03
Paris Guide
I loved the Rue Cler area. I would live there if I lived in Paris. We stayed at the Hotel du Champ de Mars in the Rue Cler area, which was wonderful. The breakfast was a bargain, too. (It was more expensive to eat breakfast at a cafe!) It's served in a cozy room in the lower level of the hotel, or in your room. The staff is great and the rooms are very nice. We had arrived early Sunday morning and they hurried the room preparation so we could check in before noon.
We ate in a couple of restaurants in the Rue Cler area recommended by the Paris guide: La Bressanne was terrific, as was La Casa di Sergio. Rick says of La Casa, "Sit down and let Sergio do the rest." That's exactly what happened! Although Sergio handed us a menu, he quickly took it away (after telling us he could make us anything we wanted!) and served us what HE wanted. It was fabulous!
Rick's tips on buying the Carte Orange week pass for the Metro was right on. We used the Metro to go everywhere and would have spent a fortune on single ticket rides otherwise. Also, since we were in Paris for week, we got the museum pass for 5 days (also a tip from the guide). Because we had the pass, we went into little museums that we probably wouldn't have bothered with if we had to pay individually for them.
We used "The Blue Van" for shuttle to and from the airport. www.airportshuttle.fr. 14.50 Euro/person. They pick you up at your gate at the airport, and pick you up at your hotel. You can book it all before you leave home and they give detailed instructions about how to call them when you arrive at the airport. Great bargain. Maybe this could be added to your guide.
Rick's tips on trying to speak the language were also great. We always started out by using our high school French and it served us well. Everyone was wonderful to us! Even when they responded in English, we tried to use as much French as possible. It was fun! I also like his tips on etiquette: always say "bonjour" when entering a shop or restaurant, and "au revoir" when leaving. The French always do!
I'll always get the Rick Steves guide for any city/country I visit in the future!
Jane Keller <email>
Rochester, NY USA 04/14/03
Rue Cler Getting Dirty
This is our third trip to the Rue Cler neighborhood in the 7th. Something has changed. While still a pleasant neighborhood in many ways, the level of dog excrement, pee and trash has risen to the level of just barely being tolerable. One should not have to tip-toe or dance down the street to keep from soiling one's shoes! We hope that this trend will reverse itself before it is too late and the neighborhood slips into the intolerable range.
Walt Kendall <email>
Greeley, CO USA 04/13/03
Paris Hotels
We used the Paris guidebook during our visit in March 2003. Overall, it was helpful. We stayed in Paris for two nights at the beginning of our trip and two more nights at the end. Our first hotel, Hotel Leveque was wonderful. Our second hotel, Hotel de Londres Eiffel was not so great. The rooms were closet sized and terribly overpriced (at least we thought so). The staff was nice enough, but not nearly as helpful as the staff at Hotel Leveque. I would caution individuals considering Londres Eiffel to check the room before booking or agreeing to a reservation.
Randi Moore <email>
Portland, OR USA 04/09/03
Paris guidebook
The Paris guidebook is great, but I would like to see the time listed when sights stop selling tickets, not just when the place closes down. This affected us at Napoleon's Tomb and the Arc de Triumphe. When you are trying to see at much as possible, this would be a great tool.
renee <email>
cedar hill, tx USA 04/08/03
Paris book
I loved the 2003 guidebook. I think I annoyed my boyfriend and his friend by reading from it so much during our trip to Versailles. But have to say I wasn't the only one reading from a Rick guide book in Versailles that day. There were at least four other people in the general vicinity with Rick's guidebook, too. The book came is very hand at many of the monuments, which would only have descriptions in French. Rick also gives some great extra information. We flew to Paris one hour after the war started with no problems after reaching Paris. We weren't prepared for the number of scammers and beggars we encountered while trying to follow Rick's walking tour of the Champs Elysées. We had a wonderful ten days in Paris and the weather was a very warm (72) for mid March and very little rain.
Teri <email>
Austin , TX USA 04/08/03
Just returned from Paris, thanks again Rick!
Just returned from Paris, our fourth trip to Europe following Rick's guidebooks, and as always, it was a great experience. We stayed at two of Rick's recommended hotels, Hotel Des Chevaliers in the Marais and Hotel De La Tulipe in the Rue Cler area. If you stay at Des Chevaliers, try to get a room that does NOT face the street. Our first night was in a room on the street, and it was very noisy, both from street noise and from the thin walls between us and the neighbors in the next room. Luckily we were able to move to a room off the street for the next three nights which was much better. Hotel De La Tulipe, just 2 blocks off Rue Cler was very nice. It's in an old convent, very quiet, nicely decorated, great hosts, great area. Highly recommended.
By the way, we experienced NO anti-American sentiment on our trip. We did see one pro-Palestinian demonstration, but that was about it. Everybody was very friendly everywhere we went.
One last thing...go see Agnes and her dog Gypsy at Chez Agnes restaurant. You'll have a great time.
Tom
Houston, TX USA 03/27/03
Thanks Rick
We just returned from a week long trip to Paris. As with our previous European adventures, we used the Rick Steves' guidebook and found it as useful as ever. The only suggestion I have for readers is to find time to take a stroll down Rue Montorgueil. It is a wonderful pedestrian friendly street full of small shops, restaurants, and cafes. A must on the street is the small bakery, Sthorer. Although Tarte Julie on Rue Cler is great, the pastries from Sthorer are simply amazing. Try the Baba o' Rum. Once again, thanks Rick and everyone at ETBD for the work you do.
Steve P. <email>
City by the Bay, CA USA 03/26/03
La Motte Picquet, Paris
My wife, sister-in-law and I just returned from a 2 week vacation in France. From our experience I would urge anyone to go ahead with their vacation plans. The Iraqi war started with 4 days left on our trip, we were in Chenonceaux at the time, and we saw no difference in our dealings with the French people. We were treated wonderfully by everyone we met.
We stayed at the Hotel de la Motte Picquet the 5 nights we were in Paris. Shortly before leaving I read a post on this board about the hotel and wondered if this choice was a mistake. We loved it! The rooms were nice, (105E/twin bed dbl and 85E single both with showers & WC. It's location right at the end of rue Cler is perfect. The whole English speaking staff were friendly and helpful. The desk clerk we dealt with most, Guillaime, is the most pleasant and helpful person you could hope for! We were much happier here then when we stayed at the Hotel Leveque 2 years ago.
Our experiences in Normandy and the Loire Valley are posted to the France guidebook board.
We would not hesitate to stay again at any of the hotels we stayed at, and even with the world situation, to travel in France.
P.S. 15 days in France, 10 minutes of rain. Marveilleux! Go and enjoy!!
Glenn Leary <email>
Bloomington, IL USA 03/25/03
Travelers Check Refunds in Paris
Tips from a picked pocket in Paris....
American Express Travelers Checks -- get them in Euros, not Dollars (except for the UK, Scandinavia, or Switzerland). Most places that say they accept AmEx Travelers Checks only accept Euro checks. The post office at Hotel de Ville will cash Dollar or Euro travelers checks without charging a fee. Money exchanges on the street will charge up to 20 percent.
Getting a refund for lost/stolen AmEx Travelers Checks -- you must have the Starting Sequence Number(s) or can't get a refund. Call AmEx first and start the report process. Get a reference number to take to the American Express office for your refund.
The American Express office in Paris is on Rue Scribe, which you can't find on any map. Go to the Opera (not the one at Bastille), stand at the top of the Metro stairway and face the building. The American Express office is on the left and slightly behind the Opera building.
You're an American at the American Express office -- and Gold Card or no, they still won't let you use their restrooms, "for security reasons." And you thought the French were snooty.......
William Ainsworth <email>
Houston, TX USA 03/23/03
Rue Cler and Hotel du Champs de Mars
We traveled to Paris just after Christmas, and stayed until after New Year's. I'd avoid the city during that timeframe; it was teeming with tourists. However, we loved Rue Cler. Perhaps not the most exciting location, but perfect for a family looking for a safe and quiet neighborhood (and occasional access to "supermarkets"). The Hotel du Champs de Mars was delightful. The staff was friendly and helpful, and the room was clean and reasonably priced.
Steve <email>
USA 03/22/03
Hotel Castex & Paris Conv/Vis Bureau web site
Love the guides, swear by them. Stayed at the Hotel Castex last year (4/02); it was a wonderful value. Tried to book it for a trip next month. Unfortunately (for me) they remodeled, added an elevator, gained an extra star, and rates for a double room went from 55E to 130E.
Last note - I use the Paris Conv. & Vis. bureau website to verify current web/email addresses listed in the guide. The current URL is http://www.paris-touristoffice.com/index_va_v2.html although it may change soon (use google to do a search). They seem to stay quite up to date. Most of Rick's hotels are listed there. The site has good info (though a tad difficult to navigate) and info on current exhibits/events.
Wendie Wu <email>
San francisco, CA USA 03/18/03
Paris guidebook
We just returned from Paris using Rick's guidebook and it was the greatest. We spent a week walking in the most beautiful city and the guidebook was used so much, we broke the binding! When we got home, I used his descriptions in my photo album, which everyone has enjoyed reading. The tour of Versailles was right on the money, especially for those of us without an art history background. I really recommend this guidebook and will buy an updated version when we return as there is always more to see!
Lynette Smith and Bill Houston <email>
Hayward, CA USA 03/16/03
Blend in
Just bought your Paris book and I wish I had it with me in December when I went for a week. I have friend with an empty apartment she let me use in the Marais.
You are right about L'Impasse bistro. It is just around the corner from where I stayed and I went several times. Very nice and wonderful food.
Also recommend La Fregate just a block away from Muse d'Orsey. Very nice, knew me after the second time and made sure I got a window seat.
Learn one new French word each day. Once at a bakery the lady behind the counter started rattling in French; I looked like a deer caught in headlights. The girl in line behind me touched my arm and said the owner wished to know if I wanted a lemeon or strawberry tart.
If you can, go to an organ concert at Notre Dame pure magic. Also buy what you want in the tower shop going to the top at Notre Dame. The way out does not go through the gift shop.
Finally, look French. I wore a navy wool top coat with clean new jeans and brown leather shoes. I had a nice shirt with sweater and until I oppened my mouth, I looked French and was twice mistaken for French. Also, to blend in, get a plastic bag from BHV or any local store and use it to carry guidebooks and camera. Use of umbrella by French is rare. I guarantee no one will give you a second look.
Richard B. Porter <email>
Lebanon, IN USA 03/10/03
Paris and through the Loire Valley
My wife and I did a vacation home exchange for one month in Paris, and we took along Rick's Paris 2002 and France 2002 guidebooks. It made a huge difference to the success of our trips and our enjoyment. Our trip was beyond our expectations!
Jack and Gale Vidano <email>
Bainbridge Island, WA USA 03/03/03
Paris February 2003
My friend and I spent two weeks in Paris in early February 2003. Rick Steves Paris had the best itinerary of the various guides we used, as well as the most amusing comments. Some observations:
Despite what others have written, we did not have to wait in line for tickets at museums, including the Louvre (on either day), or Versailles. The only place with a line was the Eiffel Tower elevator, so we walked up to the second level. I say ticket lines, because there are notable lines for security, and the museum pass doesn't help you get by those.
Although there are good comments on the museum card, you should consider all factors before buying one. Since we were in Paris off-season (no lines) and had two weeks, we spent whole days at places rather than trying to do the Orsay and the Louvre in the same day. The pass is only a money-saving bargain if you plan on doing at least two museums a day. You get more savings if you get the longer period passes, but you may also get museumed-out if you try 5 days non-stop museums (and the passes are only for consecutive days).
If you are planning on hitting the "top twenty" in the Louvre in an afternoon, you can check their website (one of) at cartelfr.louvre.fr. This one (French only) lets you browse their collection ahead of time, find the location for the things you want to look at, save them in an album, and then print it so you can go straight to them when you get there. Also beware that different parts of the Louvre are closed on different days though I can't imagine them EVER 'closing' the Mona Lisa (which is called Gioconda if you're looking for it on the website I mentioned).
Museums are very strict about their closing times and will usually start barring your way 45 minutes before closing time (e.g. at Chateau Fontainebleau they wouldn't even let you back into the foyer to use the toilets 45 minutes before closing). Museum closing time in France means the last employee walking out the building at that time, not 'make a last dash for the museum store.'
The Carte-Orange metro (and bus) pass is definitely worth it if you plan on traveling on the metro or a bus more than 16 times. You need to get an identity card to go with it (issued free on the spot), which requires you to provide a photo about 1"x 1". You can get photos at the machines in the stations though you have to pay E4 or about $4, so if this is the only thing you need the photo for, it reduces your savings. Bring an old photo from home if you have it.
For all major cities I highly recommend maps issued by Falk-Plan. These have a neat folding format that lets you view a poster size map and trace your way from page to page without having to unfold the map all the way. Alternatively, you can open it all the way for the big picture, unlike book style maps. (Although I always think opening a huge map on a windy street is the best way to say, "Tourist over here!") The Falk-Plan maps can sometmes be hard to find.
Finally, most museums have toilets that you can access *before* you pay to go in (although sometimes you have to pay about E 0.40 to use them), so this shouldn't be a consideration when deciding whether to buy the museum pass!
Brian <email>
Minneapolis, MN USA 03/03/03
Hotel de La Motte Picquet
Today, I checked out of the Hotel de La Motte Picquet because I was a very unhapy customer. I have stayed at this hotel four times in the last five years. They now have a new owner. I booked eight nights and checked out after two nights. I was quoted 80 euros for my stay. Upon arrival I was put in a twin room. They told me the rate was 90 euros, and the front desk clerk gave me the 80 euro rate after complaining. This morning the new owner told me I had to move to a different room to get that rate. I made my reservation on January 27, and I asked her why they did not put me in the right room for my first night. She had no answer, and she was rude to me so I checked out and found another hotel. The new owners did redo the lobby and put up new wallpaper. However, the new rates are now (high/low season): single with shower: 111/121 euros; double with shower 135/145 euros; double twin with shower 140/150 euros. This is a rip-off; there are many nicer hotels in the rue Cler area that are much better values. I would strongly recommend that you do not stay at the Hotel de La Motte Picquet.
Jim Lannon <email>
Minneapolis, Mn USA 03/03/03
Paris in February
I visited Paris from 2/19 to 2/26, and used the Rick Steves Paris 2003 book. It was a perfect trip--we did two walks with Pariswalks.com and found them very informative. We stayed at Hotel Alma, and Carine was most helpful, while we were planning and during our stay. This is the second time that we stayed in Rue Cler, and it is the best location for everything. The nearby restaurants were so good. Phillipe at La Varanque introduced us to his sweet little daughter, and we were treated like guests in his home. The weather was great, 48 to 54, and we were treated respectfully by the French people that we met. This is the best time of year to visit Paris!
Gloria Heemer <email>
Saxonburg , PA USA 03/01/03
Hotels: Paris & Arles,
We just returned from Paris where we spent three nights at the Hotel Leveque. It was not the best experience for us. The walls are paper thin, so that we heard every sound made! There were quite a few people who came in early in the morning, and we could hear them walk up the stairs, open their doors, etc. Our room had sewege smell at times also. We stayed on the inside of the hotel, without the view of Rue Cler, and found it just looked dark and dismal all the time. The staff are curt, but helpful, when needed.
Our stay in Arles was wonderful. The people at Hotel Musee speak fluent English and were extremely helpful. My husband came down with the flu while we were there, and they did everything they could to help out.
We came back to Paris on our way home, and stayed at the Hotel Lyon Mulhouse in the Marais district, and found it to be a wonderful hotel. The rooms were much quieter than Hotel Leveque, and the staff much friendlier and more helpful. We wish we had stayed there the entire time. We love Rue Cler, and hate that we did not enjoy staying at Hotel Leveque, because we have been to Rue Cler on other occasions, and enjoyed our stay. We had previously stayed at the La Serre, which is no longer one of Rick's recommended places.
Helen <email>
Atlanta, GA USA 02/27/03
Paris Hotel in the 7th
Hotel Lindbergh, Rue Chomel 5 in the 7eme arrondissement. This is a two-star in a great location, a block from Le Bon Marche, all the cool designer shops and the beautiful people of the Ste. Germain des Pres neighborhood. Friendly staff with decent English skills, safe, nice breakfast included. We liked this place because it is centrally located, clean and generally quiet because it is on a sidestreet. Drawback: Everyone smokes, and that can seep into your room. $115/night.
Shelley
Hudson, NY USA 02/14/03
Hotel Beaugency - Paris
I read the post dated 8/21/02 from Chuck in Wayne, NJ with great interest. We also booked a room at the Hotel Beaugency because we were promised air-conditioning. The availability of A/C was verified in writing to us after we followed up our reservation with a request for specific confirmation of the air-conditioning. We arrived in Paris on June 2, 2002 during a heatwave. When we checked into our room it was stifling. We returned to the reception desk to inquire why the air-conditioning was not running. We were told that the A/C was not turned on at the beginning of June and there was no one at the hotel who knew how to turn it on. The receptionist called his manager, but the manager told us that nothing could be done. Thankfully, the Beaugency was able to arrange a very nice air-conditioned room for us at the Hotel Les Jardins Eiffel on Rue Amelie.
Mike
Pompano Beach, FL USA 02/06/03
Paris 2003
I just returned from 8 days in Paris, first time. I was glad someone recommed Rick Steve's Paris (2003); I ordered it online at barnesandnoble.com. The Hotel Leveque on Rue Cler was great! The staff was helpful, it was very clean, and housekeeping did a great job. I liked breakfast, although more expensive, and there were coffee refills (important!). I had a wonderful time and had the book with me constantly--thank goodness. I ate at Rick-recommended places and walked everywhere (so I could eat more dessert). It was cold, crisp, charming, and an experience never to forget. The Parisians were nothing like people warned me. They were helpful and kind. I knew no French and I was in their country, but they were great.
I read a previous comment here about the maps in Rick's book. I have to admit I used a D.K. laminated map; it was great. But I would only recommend Rick's guidebook. I just can't say enough, I can only hope to return to that beautiful city. It was a better trip than I imagined. The only information I couldn't find in Rick's book was about how much alcohol one is allowed to bring back, which would have been helpful. Thanks for all the help in planning my great, life changing experience.
Marianne Niemi <email>
Ely, MN USA 02/03/03
[Editor's note: Per the US Customs Dept web site, www.customs.gov: "Generally, one liter (of alcohol) per person may be entered into the U.S. duty-free by travelers who are 21 or older. See our publication, "Know Before You Go" for additional information. Additional quantities may be entered, although they will be subject to duty and IRS taxes. Duty is calculated on the alcohol content of such beverages, very low for wine and beer, higher for spirits."]
Quick Paris Pickpocket Update:
I was on the metro with my mother in October. Gypsy kids came on in a pack of 5, and the youngest promptly asked my mom the time. As she lifted her arm to look at her watch, the boy twisted his arm behind his back, and into her purse. A tall,dark and handsome Frenchman, meanwhile, whispered to us "mind your purse!" As their efforts failed, the kids were off at the next stop, and we were profusely thanking the kind samaritan for his warning. I saw similar groups several more times in 4 days... This is the 5th time I have been to Paris in 3 years, and have never seen so many. USE A MONEYBELT! I love Rick's guide books, and have used them on each of my 5 trips to Paris. The 2003 book is the best version yet!
Tracy <email>
San Diego, CA USA 02/03/03
Another vote for Rue Cler
Here's another vote for the Rue Cler area in general and Hotel Champs du Mars in particular. Great location -- we walked everywhere. Loved being close enough to the Eiffel tower to wander over in the evenings. One night we stumbled upon a fascinating sight there: dozens of classic cars from the 50's & 60's assembling for a road rally. When arriving in Paris, take the shuttle from the airport as Rob described in his posting below. And enjoy at least one dinner at La Varangue, where the charming Philippe welcomes you like a long-lost family member and will cook and serve a fabulous dinner at a very reasonable price. Phillipe speaks English and could not be more hospitable. La Varangue is located at 27 Rue Augereau, just blocks from Rue Cler.
Charlene <email>
Centennial, CO USA 02/02/03
Incorrect Email in "PARIS 2003"
The email address for the Hotel de la Paix in the PARIS 2003 book is incorrect. The correct address is: hotel.de.la.paix@wanadoo.fr Also, be warned that there is another hotel by the same name in Paris and it has a website. The Hotel de la Paix in Rick's book does NOT have a website as near as I can determine.
Ed McNair <email>
Brandon, FL USA 01/31/03
Paris Airport Transfer
Just returned from Paris - Hotel du Champ de Mars is still an unbelievable value at $75 a night. Also, for airport transfer, nothing beats Airport Connection - $15 a person. You can book them on the web and when you land at the airport you call a toll free number and they speak English! By the time you get your bags they're waiting for you outside.
Rob
Cincinnati, OH USA 01/22/03
Paris January 2003
My husband and I stayed in Paris for 4 days at New Year's. Stayed at Hotel Leveque, which we found to be nice. Rooms are small, but this was not an issue for us. The hotel manager, Christophe, was very friendly and helped us with a room/reservation mixup we had. There's a nice breakfast room on the main floor, but you're better off getting your coffee and pastry on Rue Cler for less money. Rue Cler is a wonderful market street with great ambiance.
We bought Paris Museum passes, which are an absolute must! They saved us from standing in monstrously long lines at the Louvre and Versailles. However, you do have to stand in line at other places (such as Musee d'Orsay) because of security checks. A tip for Musee d'Orsay -- if you have a Paris Museum pass, enter through the bookstore to the left of the main entrance and avoid the line!
We liked Paris but weren't prepared for how touristy it would be, even in the winter. Food was great everywhere. The fixed-priced menu du jour was a great deal at most restaurants (often called "Formule" instead of "Menu").
We didn't encounter rudeness or pickpockets at all. We found people to be polite for the most part (except at the airport). I highly recommend getting a French phrase book and learning a few phrases. We never walked into any restaurant or store without knowing what we wanted to say in French (e.g. I would like a crossaint, a table for 2 please, etc.), and I think this helped us a lot. I never spoke or studied French before in my life, so if I can do it, so can you. A French menu reader is also very important if you want to know what you're ordering. We used "Eating and Drinking in Paris" by Andy Herbach and Michael Dillon.
Jenny
Troy, NY USA 01/22/03
Hotel Beaugency
Hotel Beaugency - I see some bad reviews of this hotel but we stayed there for 8 days in Oct. and found it delightful. The front desk staff was very helpful and the room was clean and safe - big bathrooms and good breakfast. We also talked to several others staying there and heard no complaints - so maybe the new owners are taking care of things! I would recommend it and will stay there again.
Sara Vogel <email>
Roswell, Ga USA 01/21/03
Paris in winter
The Paris 2003 guidebook was great. My girlfriend and I followed all of the walking tours with no problem. We also followed the Louvre, Orsay, and Pompidou Museum tours faithfully. Carnavalet Museum was not worth it for us though. I also proposed to my girlfriend (now fiance) on the top level of the Eiffel Tower! This book was awesome, we followed it from our arrival date until our departure date. One note: there is no JetBus #285 that goes back from Villejuif Metro to the airport. You have to take the regular #285 line which can get real crowded. Tell the driver you want to get off at Orly Sud, whcih is a stop called Point #9. Other than that, we did not have difficulty with the Metro. We navigated through the Chatelet and Invalides stations no problem. You don't have to use more than one metro ticket, just follow the signs marked "Correspondence." Paris in winter time is wonderful, especially with the snow. Just come prepared to handle the cold weather.
Paolo <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 01/14/03
Maps
Generally, the Paris 2002 guide was lovely and informative. The only major problem was the maps-- they were extrordinarily difficult to follow and left out many streets. When traveling from one place to another, listing all the streets would help so we could know if we were going in the right direction or if we'd gone too far.
Rachel George <email>
Duluth, MN USA 01/08/03
[Editor's note: Rick's 2003 guidebooks now feature colorful country and/or city maps in the front of each book that were created using the latest cartographic technology. City maps, in particular, have more information such as numbered keys to Rick's favorite sights as well as highlighted shopping and pedestrian-only streets. For large cities, we also recommend you pick up a free or low-cost street map on arrival.]
Thanks Mike!
Mike - thank you so much for the link to the site with no smoking restaurants in Paris. I'm heading back there in March and have been very concerned about dealing with the smoking. As I get older it bothers me more & more. Hopefully the list will grow before I get there.
AnnGe <email>
Annapolis, MD, MD USA 01/05/03