More Feedback on Rick Steves' Paris 2004
If you've traveled with this guidebook, please help us improve it for future travelers. How can it be more helpful and accurate? Did any recommended hotels, eateries, or sights disappoint you? Do you have any new experiences or new places we should consider? Any warnings or tips for people traveling with existing edition?
Restaurant in the Marais
The restaurant we were searching for in The Marais was closed-I don't read enough French to know if it was for vacation or forever. We dined at L'Ecluse, around the corner, just off of Place Bastille, and were so grateful the other was unavailable. Regional French food, wines that don't break the bank, and charming, relaxed service. My daughter is torn about which she misses most-the coquille St. Jacques or the beautiful busboy.
Susan
USA Thu 12/30/2004
Paris touring
Ricks' Paris Guide was a huge help and mostly accurate. The Versailles train tour ticket is reduced to 17 Euros since the garden is closed in winter. Metro travel can be exhausting if you have joint or hip problems - so use taxis. Many museums have elevators but many stairs to access. Most churches are similar. Avoid Hotel Gare du Nord - interior noise, no replacement glasses - no luggage stands. Still the best city in the world - go!
Larry Mitchell <email>
San Mateo, CA USA Sat 12/18/2004
Hotel Riviera
Just came back from Paris, I highly recommend the Riviera Hotel at 55 rue des Acacias – Tel: 01-43-80-45-31 Email: hotel.riviera@wanadoo.fr. The owner was friendly and thoughtful. She answered all of our questions in English. The staff was very nice. We felt very comfortable. The Hotel is centrally located, just one block from the Metro and a block and half from the Champs Élysées, and Arc de Triomphe. It is very clean, safe and well-run.
It’s in a district which literally has everything the traveler might need, a bakery “pâtisserie”is right next door, as is a restaurant, and there are shops and bookstores everywhere. On future visits to Paris, I definitely wil stay here, even though the Riviera Hotel does a thriving business. Rick Steves please add this Hotel to the listings in your books.
PALLDIS
San Jose, CA USA Wed 12/08/2004
Paris Review
We just returned from 5 days in Paris and had a wonderful time. Much of the credit goes to the Rick Steves Paris Guidebook.
We stayed at the Hotel Prince, a Rue Cler recommendation in the book. The hotel was wonderful. The guidebook lists the Hotel Prince as one of the lesser values in the area. "Good enough rooms, many overlooking a busy street". I don't believe that gives the Hotel Prince the credit it deserves. The room was immaculate, the staff was great and the hotel has air conditioning, so even in summer the rooms must be quiet with the windows closed. I thought it was a great value and a great location just around the corner from the metro.
A couple of points for anyone traveling to Paris soon. I have the 2004 Paris book, so maybe rates have been updated for 2005, but the Vedettes du Pont-Neuf Seine boat trip is listed at 9 euro. The price is now 10, but the good news is we found 2 euro per person coupons available at a street vendor directly across the street from the Samaritaine Department Store, so our actual cost was 8 euros.
Also the book lists St. Chappelle as open until 6:00. Imagine our surprise when we arrived at 4:45 to find it had closed at 4:30 (winter hours?)on the day our museum pass expired.
We were pleasantly surprised by prices in a grocery store right outside the Ecole Militaire metro stop in the Rue Cler area. 1.5 liter water bottles were .23 or .34 euros. Coke was cheap as were the croisants and other pastries sold outside on the street.
Cafe du Marche was a very good value meal on Rue Cler. Lots of food for 10 euros.
Also, if you are traveling soon and want to indulge in wine without breaking your bank book, try the Beaujolais nouveau. For those that don't know this is a young red wine, just recently bottled. It is light and fruity and you can get a glass for about 3 euros and a pitcher for 6 or 8.
The weather was damp and cold, but did not slow us down. We took advantage of the much maligned Paris Visite pass. For 26.65 euros I took (yes, I counted) 26 metro trips. That included 2 mistakes when I walked out the sortie when I intended to transfer to another line. It was very convenient to have the pass rather than worrying abut individual tickets with a carnet. Give the Paris Visite another look if you are going at a time when the Carte Orange won't help. All the people we encountered were delightful and we speak no French.
przyk <email>
Milwaukee, WI USA Wed 12/01/2004
Rome
Visited Rome in November, 2004. Advise everyone to stay in a central location. The hotel in our package was not and we had to walk to reach the metro. Wear comfortable shoes. Take heed of the pickpocket warnings. My husband's wallet was taken from his front jeans pocket. Rick lists the number to report lost credit cards, which saved the day.
Rick's Rome guide was wonderful. Heed the warnings about closings. The Collisseum and Forum closed early one day. The Vatican Museum closes early in winter. Take Rick's suggestions about seeing the city by neighborhoods. We used the metro and buses, a 24 hour ticket was 4 Euros, worth it since we were not centrally located. Try to see the crowded sights around the tour buses. Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps by night were wonderful, compared to the crowds by day. St. Peter's at twilight was breathtaking. Mass said at five o'clock. Found the self-service restaurants easy to use.
Jane O'Brien <email>
Cherry Hill, NJ USA Sun 11/28/2004
Paris
I spent 4 days in Paris and it was wonderful. The Paris guidebook saved me time and money. I traveled alone to Europe, and it was my first time there, so a lot could have gone wrong. But thanks to Rick Steve's guidebook, I had an exciting trip and have nothing but wonderful memories of it. I plan to recommend the guidebooks and this website to anyone planning a trip to Europe! Thanks!
Michelle <email>
San diego, CA USA Tue 11/23/2004
Hotel Giardino
I had to recommend the Hotel Giardino by Victor Emmanuel Monument. Kate and her staff were quite helpful and even borrowed me an umbrella several times when I needed it. The room was always clean and she helped me set up airport pickup for 35E even though it was extremely early for my flight. ATM was close by, as I paid cash for the room.
Also, I can recommend the Baths of Diocletian as a good spot to buy your combo ticket for the Colisseum. There were only three people there and getting the correct ticket was a snap. When I did finally go to the Colisseum, the lines at all entrances were very long. I peeked at the front of the line and discovered no line for those that had the combo ticket-Thanks Rick. Saved an awful lot of time there. Had a great trip thanks to Rick's books and I plan on going back as soon as I can.
David Matthews <email>
Cambridge, MN USA Tue 11/23/2004
just got back
bought and read the guide before the trip and found it very helpful. didn't take it along (not a first visit) but saw other travelers with it in their backpockets so i felt a kinship.
bought the 3 day museum pass and found it a great deal as we were able to go directly to exhibits and gain entrance after getting through the security checkpoints. well worth the money spent.
the metro and RER were excellent means of getting around and easy to figure out. in particular taking the RER from the airport was both inexpensive and the easiest way to get into town.
locals were receptive and not unfriendly if you at least attempt the minimum as suggested by rick (greetings, thank you, please, excuse me, do you speak english).we went 2 days post US election and no one asked or commented at all about elections. we were not made to feel unwelcomed.and we got good weather (no rain) so we were able to get so much done.
stayed at the timhotel in the latin quarter on rue monge. the room and bathroom were small but clean and functional. the staff spoke english and the location is close to the metro as well as right next to the jardin des plantes. the only negative was the street noise at night/early morning resonates loudly so light sleepers beware.
e. wahine <email>
sf, ca USA Fri 11/19/2004
paris guidebook
The Paris guidebook was wonderful.Our time in Rue Cler neighborhood was great and our stay at HotelMuquet was wonderful.Dinner at La Varange with Phillipe the chef/owner was just as rick described, and great food besides.
mike gregerson
USA Wed 11/17/2004
Chez Agnes-rue Cler
Agnes has the scar from a bullet hole to her neck just below the right jaw. She was wounded in Indo China when the French were fighting there. She was a nurse attending the Legionaires when they suffered their brutal defeat in l954. She's a late 60 or early 70 something now, I'd guess. She's a bit overweight, has no sense of fashion and has a few rough edges. But like the pork with cloves she serves, she is tender; like the calvados she offers at meal's end, she finishes well; like the apple pie she serves for desert, there is an appealing tart/sweet nature to her.
When you leave, you might say to your dinner companion, "Isn't Paris wonderful?" It's not Paris. It's Agnes. She not only feeds a customer at her Chez Agnes, a Rick Steves recommendation in the Rue Cler area, she nourishes them. Bring a few words of French with you. She knows little English. And bring your manners. She knows them in all languages.
The first night I met her, two days before the American presidential election, my wife and I were barely in the door. There was one other custumer, a retired professor of physics from Brown University and a Kerry supporter. "Bon soir," I said, for it was after 6 p.m. "You vote booush?" she said in a version of English. I told her that I vote for the one with the most beautiful wife, because, in my heart, I am French. "Asseyez-vous" she said. So we sat.
The second night, she did not ask politics. She greeted my wife, and gave me a soft rap to my head with the heel of her hand. She repeated this a few more times during the evening to my wife's delight. (Perhaps this means we are spiritually going steady.)
We had to leave the next day. But Agnes is still at her restaurant at 1 rue Augereau. Agnes, we love you, (but you over-cook the veggies.)
Harvey <email>
Chicago, IL USA Tue 11/16/2004
L'Alma Hotel
We spent the last five days of our five week French sojurn in Paris. The Hotel L'Alma was our first "Three Star Hotel". We were quite disappointed by the less than one star beds they had!!We heard this common compliant from nearly everyone in the breakfast room each morning. They did honour the 74 euro price with Rick's book even though they said there was a misprint during publishing and 100 books went out with this price and not the correct 90 euro price! Interesting that all the people we talked to had gotten one of those 100 books..what are the odds?
Len & Shauna Kirkham <email>
Surrey, BC Canada Mon 11/15/2004
Museum Pass & Versailles
Rick's guide was a great help particularly for the museum tours. In Versailles, I literally read out loud to my husband regarding each room we entered. I even received a compliment from another traveler, who overheard me.
The 3 day museum pass was 36 Euro, not 30 and even though we didnt get our dollar value, hitting Versailles on a free first Sunday of the month, the time value was immeasurable. We zipped pass the hour wait in line, without a bit of guilt.
Nancy Hendrickson <email>
washington crossing , pa USA Sun 11/14/2004
Wedding in Paris!!
My wife and I had got married in Paris a few weeks ago and I can't stop thinking what a great experience it was. We spent 5 days in Paris and then traveled to Amboise and Bruge and then spenty one last night in Paris.
We stayed at the Hotel Eber Mars in the rue Cler area along with about 14 people that came with us (for the weedding only), including 3 children ages 5-10. The staff was very accomodaitng to the children, often taking time to help them learn French, and treated people as if it were a 4 star hotel. The rooms were nice sized with multiple beds for the families. I personally can not thank them enough for their service and for making our Paris experience great.
We were also fortunate to eat in a restuarant called La Rose Bleue 15 rue Choron. This is actually where we had our small reception. The food was incredible from the kir to the desert and the owners Tony and Annette are two of the nicest people you can meet. Tony was very good with the three children, spending time going over the menu with them and even having special appetizers cooked for them.
We went many places while we were over in Europe, however, these two places will always be special to us.
Ted Hamm <email>
Sheboygan, WI USA Sat 11/13/2004
Transportation in City
In October '04 my friend and I spent 4 days in Paris and decided to buy the 3-day Paris Visite Pass in spite of the "over-priced" label Rick puts on it. Because we know the bus and metro system well we used it extensively and feel we saved over using the carnets. It had a two for one discount to the Jacquemart-Andre museum, one of Rick's recommendations, (savings of 9.50 euros) so that helped.
We met a British gentleman who was talked into buying a weekly Carte Orange (5-zone) at the airport on a Wednesday, not realizing it was only good through the following Sunday. Beware! A Carte Orange is only a bargain if its Monday - Sunday validity fits into your stay.
Nancy
Kent, WA USA Thu 11/11/2004
Crepes on rue Cler
My wife and I had a wonderful week on rue Cler (at Hotel Leveque), despite the closure of half the shops for August holidays. Our favorite discovery was the Crepes Lady (sorry, didn't get her name), whose cart has now (since April) moved to the Boucherie Chevaline that used to house Julie's Tartes. It's now Ulysse en Gaule, a tiny Greek restaurant. If the Greek food is as great as the crepes, this is a find! But we didn't get past the sidewalk tables and the fantastic crepes. We had other good crepes in Paris and Chartres, but they didn't come close to the Crepes Lady's!
Jack & Lydia Foley <email>
Rockville, MD USA Sun 11/07/2004
Paris metro
Just returned from Paris. Wonderful trip and Rick's book was very helpfull.Please note that Rick's guidebook and this website states that a book of 10 metro tickets (carnet) is priced at 10 euros. It is now 10.50, which caused an interesting scramble for us at the metro station.
Beth <email>
AZ USA Sun 11/07/2004
Paris
Stayed at the Hotel Castex in the Marais for three days last week. Very clean and the staff pleasant. I can see that some may be put off by the tiny rooms but I found it a very nice play to stay. I did skip the 10 Euro breakfast in favor of coffee and croissant at Miss Manon - a patisserie about four blocks west on Rue de Rivoli. They also had nice options for lunch or snacks.
On Ile St Louis I gave Berthillon a pass in favor of Gelateria Amorino which is nearby. I found that very good but I probably need to go back to do further tests on the gelato.
Long lines at the museums and the Eiffel Tower - I had not opted for passes or reservations but they are probably worth considering.I did opt to save Euro's and time and walked up - but only to the first level - 375 steps or so.
A Seine cruise is a must. I opted for the small Bateau Parisien boat near Notre Dame in preference to those mega sized Bateau Mouches.
This was my second short trip to France this year and both times I found most of my interactions to be pleasant. On occasion I was treated in a business like manner but never rudely. And this despite my very, very poor French. All in all a positive experience.
Tony Galiani <email>
Carrboro, NC USA Fri 11/05/2004
Paris Catacombs
The Catacombs in Paris are closed from Nov 1 to May 1. The Paris book doesn't mention this. We found out the hardway on Nov 3.
Kristin <email>
Buffalo, NY USA Fri 11/05/2004
Budget Hotel in Paris
Following an earlier tip here, I stayed at EDEN HOTEL in the 15th, Metro Vaugirard, 110 Rue Blomet. It is very basic, clean and comfortable, with everything you need nearby in the neighborhood. I paid 38EU for a Sb. I believe a double would cost the same. The room was large. Mostly French people were staying there.
Swan
USA Tue 11/02/2004
WWII Museum at Hotel des Invalides, Paris
Please note that the entrance to the WWII Museum at Hotel des Invalides in Paris is on the left, not right, as you enter the museum area. Rick has the stairs on the right...
Larry and Elizabeth Schmitt <email>
San Diego, CA USA Mon 11/01/2004
M Santiago's Post Re: Hotel du Champ de Mars
Re: M Santiago's Post below about Hotel du Champ de Mars not allowing coffee bought elsewhere up to her room.....I've lived in Paris twice for many years and my family and I now go every other year for the summer staying in wonderful hotels and we have never had this happen to us. Every hotel we have ever stayed in has allowed us groceries, coffee, soft drinks and anything else we wanted in our room. It sounds like the owner of Hotel du Champ de Mars is just plain nasty. We stopped in there last summer with the thought that we may like to stay there in the future and the husband and wife owners were very rude to us. We were extremely polite and I speak fluent French so there was no excuse. Needlesss to say, we would never, ever stay there.
Susan
Sausalito, CA USA Mon 11/01/2004
Paris and the guidebook
8 days in Paris October 2004Loved your Paris guidebook and used it extensively. Had a wonderful time. We stayed at the Hotel du Champs de Mar. It was lovely and we could see the Eiffel Tower. Unfortunately I caused an "ulgy American" incident by bringing coffee up to my husband that I had bought on the street. The owner told me to either go out for coffee or go down to their resturant. Opps.
Comment on guidebook. When we went to Monet's Garden we also stopped at the American Museum to see Mary Cassats paintings. I was very disappointed. There was ONLY one. The guidebook is plural.
Also we found a wonderful bistro around the corner from our hotel that is not mentioned in the guidebook. They had wonderful coffee and the owner Oliver was very helpful in telling us what bus we needed to catch to the train station on our way to Giverny. His place is Bistro Du Monde 85, Avenue Bosquet. Please check him out.
M Santiago <email>
Port Angeles, WA USA Sun 10/31/2004
Paris to CDG
I always use the RER to CDG from Paris hotels. It took 90 minutes from my hotel at Metro Vaugirard to the check-in area at United Airlines at CDG. There is a list of airlines and their terminal numbers on the wall in the RER train. The RER with Metro connection was about 8EU. I travel with only a carry-on size bag. If you have more luggage this may not work since you have to navigate through one or more metro stations to use the RER. I like this way to get to the airport because it is a more reliable, cheaper and quicker route to CDG.
Swan
USA Sun 10/31/2004
Free Eau in Paris
Maybe this should be in the guidebooks: a list of places to refill(free) your water bottle during long days of sightseeing, to avoid 3 Euro bottles of Evian(though, is there anything better on a long hot day?). In Paris, I can recommend labeled potable eau at a tap next to Notre Dame's plaza, a rest room on the ground floor in Musee D'Orsay, and the rooftop cafeteria at Printemps. The fashion show at Printemps is free and no-pressure(it's all tourists after all) and the view is fabulous. You can sit as long as you want on benches in the sun and watch the light change over the city. There are glasses and pitchers to fill from a station in the cafeteria and no one cares how much time or money you spend.
Susan
WI USA Sun 10/31/2004
Paris tips
A few thoughts from our recent trip.The Airport Connection van from CDG to the hotel took over 3 hours as the driver kept going terminal to terminal looking for people who never showed. On the way back, we took a yellow van service called by the hotel with better results, although it still took time to load at 4 stops. I would fudge and hour or so when you tell them your flight time.
Thoumieux is a nice looking place and a good experience, but the food was just average and the portions small. I did like the resident cat although he doesn't have any boundries (like on the table.)
Cafe le Bosquet has surprisingly good food and value.
Parc de la Villette should not be missed.
Creperie de Josselin on rue de Montparnesse is good, cheap, fast, and always full of locals.The guidebook was very helpful and useful.
Dick Nixon <email>
Amherst, NH USA Wed 10/27/2004
Hop-on, Hop-Off Buses
Re: Karen's post below....There are only two "Hop On, Hop Off" bus companies in Paris, the red one and the lime green one. We did both and liked the red bus much, much better. The headphone commentaries on both buses are equally terrible. If the weather is not good enough to sit up top out in the open air then there is no point in doing the bus tour at all. Sitting down below, inside is miserable and pointless whichever bus co. you choose.
Susan
USA Wed 10/27/2004
Paris
Paris was the first leg of our trip. Your book was excellent for places to stay, food, and what is cool in art. We stayed in the latin district and had a great time in the open markets, bakeries and exploring great food. After hearing negative remarks about the french people. I would have to say that we were treated really well.
After pondering the people we meet also in Italy is that these people really embrace life with family and food and generally enjoy life. Being from Maui where people are more laid back, I felt at home, wanting to embrace the european life style. My conclusion is that gov't seperate people with there politics. That people just want to live and enjoy life. So by all means go to Europe, downtown L.A. is a lot scarier. I am planning our return trip in two years. Thanks Rick
Steve Nickens <email>
Haiku, Maui, Hi, Hi USA Wed 10/27/2004
My husband and I have just returned from three weeks in France--one week in Paris and two weeks driving. A great trip. Everywhere we went we found the French people to be most helpful and kind.
We used Rick Steves a lot for hotel and restaurant suggestions. The only downside, we felt, of this was that many of his suggested restaurants in Paris were mostly full of his followers--not too many local French. We ate very well with only one exception. We had dinner one night at Chez Agnes (a very tiny restaurant in the rue Cler area). Although it was a fun evening, the dinner itself was, at best, only average.
Dinner at the other RS suggested restaurants we ate at were considerably better and, in most cases, less expensive. Love Paris--hated to leave.
Margaret Voice <email>
Edmonton, Alberta Canada Sat 10/23/2004
Paris 2004
I stayed in Les Marais neighborhood and loved it. As a single woman traveling alone I felt safe there at night, and it was perfectly located. There is a Batobus location very close by at Hotel de Ville. My hotel was Hotel Beaubourg and I had no complaints at all.
Two things I didn't know: at the outdoor cafes, you can just sit at any available table and a waiter will eventually find you; in late September/early October they have an international auto show that sucks up every available hotel room. The night before I left I stayed at Novotel at the airport because I had a crack of dawn flight out. This was the best move I made -- allowed me to sleep an extra hour and highly convenient with very helpful staff.
Rick's book and maps allowed me to conquer my fear of the big city and I enjoyed every minute thanks to his guidance
E Fulsang <email>
Grants Pass, OR USA Fri 10/22/2004
Paris 2004
We used Paris 2004 to guide us on our trip this past September. I went with my husband and mother. We stayed at the Hotel Royal Phare and had an excellent stay. The back rooms have a good, albeit obscured view of the Eiffel Tower and the location couldn't be better-right by a metro stop, a supermarket and the rue Cler. Staying near the rue Cler was lovely. Even postal workers were friendly!
We enjoyed a riverboat tour on the Seine-surprisingly not cheesy like I’d thought. It was a good welcome to Paris and worth the 10 euros. St. Chapelle was glorious and worth the line. My mother loved the Rodin museum. I think the gardens were our favorite. We also enjoyed Sephora on the Champs Elysees walk as it was just plain fun even for non-girly-girls like me! The Eiffel tower was well worth the money and wait even though we'd been up it before. It just doesn't get old.
The only hitch we encountered was with the museum pass. We tried to buy one (like good Rick Steves disciples) and the woman at the TI said the next two days were 'free museum days' at all Paris museums. Well, she was wrong. We waited in line to pay at the Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, St. Chapelle and the Rodin Museum. I'm not sure why we didn't insist on buying a pass. It was a small thing but we pretty much kicked ourselves for not going with the pass.
JS Goldsberry
Jackson, MS USA Thu 10/21/2004
Port Royal Hotel and Airport Connection Shuttle
I read about the one star Port Royal hotel in Rick's book and also in Conde Nast travel magazine about this hotel with low prices but run with quality. I also checked out their website and the rooms looked nice.
The room they gave me was very dreary with lumpy beds, bedlights that did not work, and dirty towels. I took a peak into the room next to me as the maids were cleaning it, and it was totally different. The bathroom was newly remodeled and the room was cheery.The manager said the hotel was full so I could not change to another room. The next morning, I asked if I could get a discount instead of paying the same price as the nicer rooms, he went into a loud fit and said no. Even if he did not want to give a discount, he could be more diplomatic about it.
I took Airport Connection shuttle from the airport to the hotel. Once, we got the hotel, I paid the driver and then he asked for a tip. It is up to me if I want to tip not for him to ask. I gave one euro and he rejected it because it was not enough for him!
Julia
Chicago, IL USA Wed 10/20/2004
Lice and Scabies
We had a great 30 days in Europe using Rick Steves books except for the lice and scabies at the very end (either Beaune or Paris). We had paid particular attention to hygeine to no avail. We won't say which hotels but will say if the sheets are threadbare, blankets are 'hairy', and the matress very old..trick or treat.
P Lindgren <email>
Seattle, WA USA Tue 10/19/2004
Museum Pass, Sight information, and A hotel to consider
Consider the Museum pass a First Class upgrade to your sightseeing. I almost enjoyed avoiding the line more than some of the museums I went to! I followed Rick's advice and bought the Pass a the archaeoligical crypt under Notre Dame, however they only accepted CASH! No biggie, I went to an ATM and refilled my money belt.
Saint Chappelle was fantastic! It's like you are in a stained glass aquarium! There is an Xray machine at the main entrance but you can go through either side, don't worry that only one side says Saint Chappelle, they both end up on the other side, a real time saver. My 12 year-old was a bit bored with the Orsay and the Louvre, but got a real kick out of the Pompidou Center; I guess a blue square on a wall is more exciting then a DaVinci. The Eiffel tower "sparkles" at night. On the hour, they light up strobes all over the tower, really beautiful! Especially from the Trocadero.
We stayed at Hotel des Batignolles, a triple was 73 Euro, tax included. The neighborhood had tons of resturaunts, from McDonalds to Lebanise! Comfortable beds, and the nicest staff (family run)! It's nothing fancy and the walls were a bit thin but after walking in Paris all day, you'll find that you can sleep pretty easily.This was my 5th trip to Paris and I hope to return soon!
JD Lane <email>
Long Beach, CA USA Tue 10/19/2004
Restaurants
I want to recommend the restaurant Les Bistro des Cigales to other Paris travelers. The food was excellent.The staff was extremely helpful. It's my new favorite!
Katie Tovar <email>
Phoenix, AZ USA Sat 10/16/2004
Paris Rodin Museum with child, hop on/off bus to avoid
In Paris, we stayed at the Hotel de la Tour Eiffel near the Rue de Cler neighborhood. It was fine, but not fabulous. Clean, fairly attractive, fairly nice location and price, but hotel was a bit worn and staff, although friendly, seemed a bit overwhelmed. (Although the hotel was not super busy, the staff regularly forgot things and seemed stressed dealing with 2 things at once). Since we were traveling with a toddler, the hotel gave us a triple for the price of a double AND provided a free travel crib in the room.
If you are interested in a hop on/hop off tour bus, I do NOT recommend the red buses (Coches de Rouges?). The headphone commentary provided almost no information, and some of the views from inside the bus were bad. There are several other hop on/hop off buses, so I would try one of those companies.
For families with kids in strollers, be aware that the Rodin Museum does not allow strollers inside, but the sculpture garden outside is a great place for kids. You and your travel partner can either take turns outside with your kids, or you can go go through the museum holding child, using the museum child carrier (probably only good for an infant), or let your child walk - CAREFULLY - through the museum.
Karen <email>
USA, now Belgium, USA Tue 10/12/2004
Hotels
I won't reiterate all the positive comments about the excellent advice in the book about general stuff around Paris - it's all true.
Unfortunately, we had booked a hotel months before getting the guidebook. When we showed up, it was a horrible dive. We grabbed our Rick Steves Paris book and walked down to the Marais neighborhood, where we walked into the Hotel Vieux-Marais. It was outstanding! Very reasonably priced, clean, awesome neighborhood, and the staff was super - they gave us restaurant recommendations each night, etc. After hearing about our bad experience with the other hotel, they even knocked the price down for the first night because they felt sorry for us.
If this was any indication of a typical experience using the book, I suspect you couldn't go wrong with any of the accommodations in it. THANK YOU, RICK!!!
Marty
Alameda, CA USA Tue 10/12/2004
Family just back from Paris
Rick's book was a wonderful help in Paris. When touring Versaille, for instance, I used the information in it to teach my two five year old boys about the Palace and to keep them interested. It worked wonderfully. They were really interested and listened intently. Of course, after touring the Palace and gardens, dad took them in a row boat on the grand canal as a treat.
We didn't use Rick's hotels but used another one that we were told about, the Hotel de la Porte Doree. (273, avenue Daumesnil - 75012 Paris, phone: 01 43 07 56 97 -- www.hoteldelaportedoree.com). 65 Euros per night for a double. The owners are young (30s I think) and have out a lot of effort into renovating the hotel. It is beautiful but the hotel is only a two star. The rooms were large enough. The only draw back were the tiny showers. Not much room to turn around in. The hotel is just steps from the Porte Doree Metro stop and just a block away from a lovely park, the Paris Aquarium and more. A nice spot for families. One more note: the wife comes from Sacramento, California, originally and speaks fluent French and English. It was nice to have someone who could understand us and who we could also understand. And she and her husband are both very kind and enthusiastic.
Being our first time to Paris, we did all of the touristy things, the Eiffel Tower (and I feel it is worth the extra Euros to go to the top), Versaille, Giverny, the Seine Boat Trip, the Cutty Sark, Greenwich, etc. A wonderful time for all of us. And our boys loved riding the Metro!
As for friendliness, we experienced very friendly people everywhere. We too learned a few French phrases and used them as much as possible. People were very kind and helpful. Before we left for France we were warned how awful it would be by many, many people. But we went with the attitude that we would be friendly and, of course, everyone else would be too. And it seems to have worked! All in all, we enjoyed Rick's guide book and will use them every time we can.
S. Robinson
CA USA Mon 10/11/2004
Trip to Paris! Rue Cler.
My wife and I just returned from our honeymoon in Paris. We used Rick's suggestions extensively and had a wonderful time! Here are the details:
Hotel Relais Bosquet: A wonderful recommendation from Rick. The staff is friendly, the rooms are large and very nice (Huge bathroom!) and the price was fantastically low! We even had a woderful view of the Eiffel Tower from our balcony!
BatoBus: This is an invaluable service. For a small price (13 Euros for 2 days) we were able to ride up and down the Seine and get on and off the boats at our convenice. This was so usefull, in fact, that we didn't even have to use the Metro. They now have 10 stops along the river.
Rue Cler: This neighbourhood is fantastic. The people were very friendly and all of the restaurants were fantastic. We spent a lot of time simply enjoying the atmosphere of Rue Cler. Restaurants we recommend: Cafe Bosquet and Cafe du Marche.
One note to Rick's readers: We noticed a large number of tourists reading their Rick Steves' books as they toured the city. Most of these tourists seemed oblivious to their surroundings and made no attempt to follow Rick's suggestions about blending in and trying to follow the local customs. Unfortunately for these tourists, they were routinely treated like tourists by the locals and often complained about how rude the French were. On the contrary, my wife and I (who don't speak French) learned the key phrases, tried to be polite and put our guide book away when we were out and about. The result was that the French were polite to us and extremely friendly and helpful. So, if you put forth a little effort, the locals will definitely be grateful and will treat you well!
Thanks Rick for all the great suggestions! We had a wonderful time!
Ben <email>
Dallas, TX USA Mon 10/11/2004
Transit passes demystified
Mobilis, the non-tourist day pass, can help you save money on the Metro, the RER (regional rail network) and the bus in Paris. Mobilis is always cheaper than Paris Visite, the tourist pass. Mobilis lets you commit one day at a time. I found I used the Metro heavily on some days and just walked on other days. You can also vary the scope. For example, you can buy an 8E80, 4-zone Mobilis pass on the day you plan to visit the Chateau de Versailles and a 5E30, 2-zone pass (Paris city limits) on other days.
Mobilis is sold at the ticket window in any Metro station -- but not the vending machine. The first time, you will receive a numbered card in addition to the actual magnetic stripe pass. Every time you buy a Mobilis pass, immediately write your card number and the current date on the pass.Some travelers will benefit from a Monday-to-Sunday pass ("Carte Orange, coupon hebdomadaire") or a calendar month pass ("Carte Orange, coupon mensuel"), or from a 10-ticket pack ("carnet"), instead of a Mobilis day pass. For all pass prices, go to http://www.citefutee.com/informer/tarif.php
For airport trips, one way Metro+RER tickets are generally the cheapest. Regardless of the number of zones you pay for, Mobilis is never valid for airport trips. The Carte Orange can be, but it may not be worth paying for the extra zones when you will make one or at most two airport trips. The one-way Metro+RER fare to/from Roissy CDG is 7E85 as of this writing.
Paul Marcelin-Sampson <email>
Santa Cruz, CA USA Sat 10/09/2004
Museum Pass & Hotel
Rick's guidebook for Paris was a lifesaver. The Museum Pass is a must. We bypassed LONG lines - kept expecting someone to laugh when we showed our pass and send us to the back of the line but it never happened - our line at the Louve had 10 whereas the general public line had hundreds. Hooray for saved time.
We stayed in a Citadines near the Louve that was convenient to everything, quite inexpensive, and very clean. It's small kitchen, even with dishwasher, was great for a few quiet meals in our room. Room was small but adequate. I know you don't usually recommend chains but we really enjoyed our stay there.
Sue Blouin <email>
Forest, MS USA Thu 10/07/2004
Paris - Hotel Royal Phare and Versailles
I stayed for four nights at Hotel Royal Phare and thought it was a very good value for the price. I got a top-floor room on the courtyard side - it was quiet, got great light from the window, and had a nice view of the Eiffel Tower. Both the room and bathroom were of adequate size and were very clean.
The day I went to Versaille, the RER-C train to the nearest stop had broken down, and there was nothing in the RS Guidebook to tell me about alternatives. I managed fine by asking around, but it might be helpful to include in the next book, that if for some reason the RER train isn't running, an alternative would be to take the suburban train out of Montparnasse to the Versaille-Chantier station. (It's a 10-minute walk from the station to the Versaille estate.)
Also, the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles was being renovated while I was there, so about half the room was blocked off from view. Dunno when that's scheduled to be completed, but if not soon, it might be helpful to mention that in the next update of the guidebook.
USA Thu 09/30/2004
Hotel Castex Feedback
Some good AND bad feedback on the Hotel Castex. The stay was very nice overall and a good value for the price. Accomodations were recently renovated, the A/C worked well, and the area of Paris was great. It was a 10 min walk to Ile St. Louis and 5 mins further to Notre Dame. The Metro was a 5 min walk or less.
The hotel served us well with one exception. The front desk person on duty the last night of our stay was new (his 1st night on the job). When we came to the hotel from a day on the town he was outside smoking. He did not greet us when we entered (we did not know if he was a guest or just hanging around at the front door). He also took his time and finished smoking his cigarette (1 - 2 mins) before coming in so we could ask for our room key. In addition, we found he was completely unwilling to help with dinner reservations (claims of ignorance of how to use a computer, and how to use a telephone book, etc.). He also decided to take out the garbage at around 1am or 2am, and did so extremely loudly.
The experience with that person was very different from the other folks at Castex, which all seemed great in comparison. The other folks were all very nice and extremely helpful.
The only downside of the hotel was the fact that the walls were a bit thin (common in Europe I have found) and that our room had only a bathtub with spray attachment (no standup shower, also common I have found). These were no big deal. The rooms were nice and a very good size relative to other hotels I have been to in France. The decor was also nice and new.
I would recommend both the hotel and Le Marais. You'll get a good hotel value for the money and a great, central, safe location. We would stay there again and would recommend the hotel to friends.
ONE WARNING THOUGH While at Hotel Castex I used their international calling service. This is something the hotel puts on a little sign next to the phone, and which we stupidly used. The service is from: Call to International P.O. Box 3529 Long View, Texas 75606 1-800-576-2118 The service charges were approx. $40 for a 5 minute call, which is absurd unless you call the US from the moon. Be aware!
J:L <email>
NYC, NY USA Tue 09/28/2004
Paris without pain
My two sisters and I just returned from 6 days in Paris and had a fabulous time thanks to Rick. We had other guide books that we read for culture and history, but no one beats Rick for real, practical, no nonsense advice. The tip about the museum pass was worth the cost of the guide book alone!
We spoke a little french (which was always answered in french) tried to be polite and followed Rick's tips. People were polite and friendly in return without fail. We asked for help and directions in stores, and one kind man came to us to offer help with our telephone card and the phone. I think it's important to learn a few key phrases in french (which you can get from Rick's guide) and try to fit in as much as possible.We stayed in the Left Bank Contrescarpe area and loved it. It's a real neighborhood, with enough restaurants and cafes to satisfy anyone.
Our next trip will be to Italy and you can believe I will be studying Rick's guides before I go. Our private little joke phrase was "Rick is the man!"
Sharon Hill <email>
Cincinnati, OH USA Tue 09/28/2004
Rue Cler restaurant
We stayed in the Rue Cler neighborhood at the Hotel du Champ de Mars. Clean rooms and great location but rooms are really small.
The very best restaurant we enjoyed during our stay in Paris was La Casa di Sergio. We have been in Italy and this is as good as any restaurant there. If you tire of French cooking and want a wonderful meal with enthusiastic service, go see Sergio.
Wayne Beckwith <email>
Loveland, OH USA Mon 09/27/2004
Paris Part 3
This was our third visit to paris and fourth to France. Since we bypassed Rue Cler on our last visit we decided to stay in the area again. We stayed at Hotel Muguet. This hotel has all the physical amenities one could ask for. It is very clean and modern. It even has a soap dish in the shower. There were, however,two minor problems. The Three ladies(witches)behind the reception desk were not at all service oriented. They acted as though customers were an imposition. This did not bother us because of our experience and we did not need them.If someone were traveling to Paris/France for the first time they would certainly get the wrong impression from this unusually bad attitude. The evening guy was very polite. The other problem was that the breakfast room is too small and glass enclosed. This means that you have to listen to the prattle of Americans from a certain part of the country. If nothing else were available we would stay here again. We generally try to stay in different hotels or different areas.
We had a lunch at cafe Roussillon(always better food and service than du Marche) and a quick supper at Le Comptoir du Septieme (adequate). One of the highlights of this trip was dinner at Le Florimond. As stated above,we try not to eat or sleep in the same place twice unless it is exceptional. We ate at Le Florimond two nights in a row. The food is fabulous and the service was one of best we have ever experienced in France(the three witches could learn here).
Note to the editor of the books:Before a trip to Italy in May of 2003 I checked with some financial types about the Euro. At that time it was about $1.16. They said to plan on $1.20 to 1.25 in the future. The book still says $1.10. Time to update your info.
George Scott <email>
Mn USA Mon 09/27/2004
Paris Corrections
I recently spent a weekend in Paris with my brother, we had RS's guide to Paris with us the whole time. A few corrections to make though.
The Mona Lisa is no longer in the Salle des Etats, it is now in a room at the end of the Grand Gallery.
At Versailles, the Versailles Pass is not available at the train station; it is available at the tourist office just up the road from Versailles, or in fact, at the Palace itself. It is recommended that you purchase this pass before noon, because otherwise you will not have enough time to use the pass enough to make it worthwhile. Also it now costs 6 euros to get into the gardens if the fountains are running, which I highly recommend everyone see.
I am in London for a total of three months for a semester abroad, and so far I have used RS’s London guide for many weekend trips, and just sightseeing after class. He knows his stuff.
Lisa <email>
USA Mon 09/27/2004
Great little hotel with smiling help
Never read Rick's book until after we had been to Europe. We spent 5 nights in Paris at the Duquesne Eiffel and loved it. Fabulous room and friendly staff, as were all the parisians while we were there (spring 2003). Highly recommend Duquesne Eiffel
Brian Reynolds <email>
Johnson Creek, WI USA Sat 09/11/2004
Hotel Giardino
I went to Rome in Oct. 03 and stayed at the Hotel Giardino. It was great!! Kate and the staff were very helpful(even loaned me an umbrella when I needed one!) Stayed for 4 nights and even helped me set up the airport shuttle when I had a very early flight the next morning. Centrally located and a good breakfast. While I was there, I met 3 couples from NYC and we had a lively conversation every morning with staff over breakfast. I would definitely stay there again!!
David Matthews <email>
Cambridge, MN USA Sat 09/11/2004
Paris Hotel/Restaurant comments
Stayed in Hotel Alma on Rue Exposition out of Rick's book. A Great location super close to the Eiffel Tower, rue Cler neighborhood and convenient to many great restaurants. They are still honoring Rick's discount rate of 79 euro vs. 120euro even when they are booked full! (www.alma-paris-hotel.com) Try to avoid the 6th/top floor if it's warm weather season, as it get a bit warm. Had a fan and was okay. I think they are haning onto their 3 star rating, as the bathrooms are in need of tile repairs. We stayed in 2 different rooms and found them the same. When leaving and going to Charles de Gaulle, allow up to an hour and a half (vs. 40-60 minutes in Rick's book, esp. for Terminal 1 as it's the last stop)from Opera to the airport on the Roissybus. They completely SHUTDOWN check in an hour prior to your outbound flight and we missed it by 10 minutes and had to re-book for the next day...worth the 50 or so euro to take a taxi to the airport! We also ate at a couple of Rick's restaurants (more by accident vs. planned).. Thoumieux I felt was more expensive than it should be..paying for the atmosphere and fancy-ness. La Casa di Sergio was a great meal, tons of food, and like Rick says..just trust him if you get the Rick Special..you won't be disappointed. The half bottle of house wine was expensive though at 14 euro. It's next door practically to Hotel Alma. Sergio has a Rick menu and there were numberous locals there (the restaurant is smaller than my living room) and they were being given a different menu but with the same offerings. Cafe du Marche has a great steak tartare and the waitress was a bit surprised when an American ordered it. Great place to sit and people watch.For a great free view and a decent reasonably priced lunch, go to the rooftop terrace at the department store Printemps Haussemann near the Opera. Unobstructed views of the Eiffer Tower and a cafeteria style place that was very reasonable.
Lisa Reinecke <email>
Elm Grove, WI USA Sat 09/11/2004
Marais Neighborhood in Paris
My mom and I stayed in the Marais neighborhood and loved it. The location was wonderful-near the Notre Dame, Basille and several open air markets. It was also very easy to get anywhere in Paris from the Marais.
We stayed at the Hotel Sevigne-which was much more affordable than other hotels in Paris. It is about 25 yards from the metro stop-making it simple to get anywhere in Paris. The owners of the Hotel Sevigne (Roger and Yvette) were wonderful and very hospitable. We highly recommend it.Thanks for a great trip Rick!Amy & MaryAnn (my mom)
Amy Lavin <email>
minneapolis, mn USA Sun 09/05/2004
Hotel Palais Bourbon & other Paris items
We give a very close thumbs down for Hotel du Palais Bourbon in the 7th arrondissement (Invalides area).
On the plus side: fantastic location, clean, well-sized rooms, and a good breakfast.
On the down side: extensive renovation work, they cleaned the last morning while we were still in the room (checkout wasn't until 1200); and a discrepancy on the phone bill.As I said, this is a very close thumbs down; in fact it could be a very close thumbs up. So take a look at the other recommendations and please decide for yourself.
Rue de Cler is a must! Pack some food for a picnic any chance you can get! The metro is fantastic. Jardin Luxembourg is great for kids.
M. McCormick <email>
Rome, IT IT Sun 09/05/2004
Hotel Castex
My wife and I celebrated our 30th anniversary with a RS trip to Paris. We stayed at the Hotel Castex and were pleased to find that it was upgraded to 3 stars since this year's book was published. They are still honoring the charges listed in the book.
Pat LaVergne <email>
Houston, TX USA Tue 08/31/2004
ATMs Out of Service at Gare du Nord
Traveled from London to Paris via Eurostar in mid-July and found that the ATM machines at Gare du Nord station were all out of service. In fact, it didn't appear that they had been in service for quite awhile. We had planned on using an ATM to get Euros to pay for the taxi ride from the station to the hotel in central Paris. Luckily, we were able to use our check card at a currency exchange kiosk in the train station for a fee. I would recommend getting some Euros before leaving Waterloo station in London. FYI: You can use both British Pounds and Euros while on the train to purchase food and beverages. When exiting Gare du Nord station to look for a taxi, avoid the shady-looking guys that offer to walk you right to a taxi...they will take you to a taxi but will expect a 2-3 Euro fee for doing so. Just look for the line of taxis, and take the first available.
Mike
Overland Park, KS USA Sun 08/29/2004
Faulty print
I found to my dismay, that I've purchased a faulty copy of Rick's Paris 2004.Pages 93 -140 are repeated &141 - 188 missing.Otherwise the book is terrific! We used and modified some of the tours and walks and had a great time;)
Nicole <email>
Munich, Bayern Germany Sun 08/29/2004
Paris Catacombs tour
Times listed in the guide for the Catacombs tour were incorrect.
Barry Altman <email>
Vienna, VA USA Sat 08/28/2004
Hotel Muguet, Paris
Hotel Muguet near the La Tour Maubourg metro stop was terrific. Charming room, immaculate bathroom with huge bath towels, great air conditioning and an extremely helpful staff. The proximity of the deli's and food shops on Rue Cler was great for picnic lunches or dinners. The residential neighborhood was quiet and felt quite safe walking back to the hotel late at night from the metro. This hotel actually looks like the photos posted on its website and brochures.
Elizabeth <email>
Chicago, IL USA Tue 08/24/2004
Paris
My husvand and I just returned from an 11-day trip to France. 4-days in South of France and 7 days in Paris. Just wanted to thank Rick for his guidebooks and phrasebooks, we had the most wonderful time. We stayed at Hotel Lyon-Mulhouse** (Marais/Bastille area) and we would go back. One downside was the lack of a/c or a ceiling fan, but no biggie. It was comfortable and had pleasant employees.
G. Kaplan
Los Angeles, CA USA Thu 08/19/2004
Hotel Saint Honore Paris 1e
We stay in this hotel for 5 nights ($65/night). The room is small but comfortable. But considered the location. 5 mins walk to Louvre, Centre Pompidou, Les Halls (right in the middle of the action). Best of all the laudette is right in front of the hotel, and cheap eating joints at Les Halls area. Not bad for this 1star hotel. Highly recommended!!! the hotel can be find in www.123europe.com
Tyler Hoang <email>
Aliso Viejo, CA USA Wed 08/18/2004
Paris hotel
We stayed at Hotel De France** EU,68Db With continental breakfast.We booked early over the phone.Good clean place with small but nice rooms with bathroom and close to Rue Mouffetard with those great restaurants.
Kurt and Claudette <email>
Vancouver, BC Can. Wed 08/18/2004
Paris thoughts
Just returned from a 4-week European trip, including 4 days in Paris. Some thoughts:
(1) A general idea -- have a plan for what you'll do if members of your party get separated. This happened to us in Paris at one point and was pretty scary. After that, we had a policy for everywhere: in museums, we made eye contact before one of us moved on to another room. On the Metro, we agreed that if we were separated, we'd meet on the platform of the station we were going to. Just about everywhere else we agreed to meet where tickets were collected.
(2) The Hotel du Champs de Mars was nice, although we stayed in 2 different rooms and the second was drastically better than the first -- the first was on the ground floor and the only window opened directly onto the door and window of a neighboring room, as well as the main stairwell. Since it was really hot and there's no AC, we had to decide between heatstroke and exhibitionism. We chose the latter, but didn't sleep well with the noise of the other guests coming and going. The second room was on the 4th floor facing the back, and was much quieter. Great bathrooms. The front desk staff was nice, though one of the women who serves breakfast was spectacularly rude.
(3) We loved our early evening visit to the Luxembourg Gardens, and I'd highly recommend this to any visitor. You can sit and people-watch and enjoy the gorgeous flowers -- perfect when you are tired after a long, hot day, and want to relax somewhere scenic. The prettiest garden I saw in a month in Europe.
(4) I took the trouble to learn some pretty basic French before traveling, and it helped immensely. Learn enough to say basic niceties like excuse me, please, thank you, you're welcome, sorry; ask and understand basic directions; compliment things; learn numbers if you can; pick up a few verbs like "I have," "I am," and "I would like;" learn the vocabulary for foods, drinks, hotel amenities, etc., that you will most want to ask for. Not only did the French seem to appreciate my attempts, it allowed me to have some basic chats with friendly folks, like a gregarious Versailles security guard, which always made my day. I agree with other posts -- the French are generally more formal than Americans, but the vast majority of people I encountered were very nice and helpful.
(5) Beware scam artists at the train station. We arrived on the Eurostar from London and tried to follow Rick's advice by using a machine to buy Metro tickets (and avoid the line). However, my meager French made the screen instructions confusing, and soon a "helpful" man appeared and, to make a long story short, gave us misinformation (that carnets were no longer sold) and hovered around; when our credit card wouldn't work in the machine, he used a card he had to buy some absurdly expensive tickets for us, and then tried to get us to pay him back in cash. (Two different guys tried to do this to us while we were standing there trying to decipher the machine.) He was very persistent, but left us alone after we insisted we had no cash in ANY currency. After that, we stood in the ticket window line for 5 minutes and were pleased to deal with a polite and trustworthy Metro employee who sold us a carnet.
(6) We had an excellent, excellent lunch at the Cafe Richelieu at the Louvre. A little pricey, but sitting on the terrace with a view of the Louvre courtyard and pyramid, the delicious food, and the pleasant, attentive service made it more than worth it.
(7) Getting the Paris Museum Card is the best idea ever. The lines at Saint-Chapelle and Versailles in particular were spectacular in early August, and we just sailed right past them. Even if it won't save you money on admissions, this card is worth it for the line-jumping.
M. T. Benson <email>
Cambridge, MA USA Mon 08/16/2004
Victory Tours
Thanks Roel for a wonderful day. For those of you who want to tour the Normandy area, my recommendation is this: Call Roel Klinkhamer, book yourself a night (or two) at the Chateau de Lignerolles and let yourself enjoy. We we only able to spend a fleeting 6 hours with Roel, but it was informative, pleasant and fun. Our 11 year old had a blast and as it seems with all of Rick's recommendations, we were treated like newly found old friends. Enjoy the "clicky-clicky, beepy-beepy" and the wonderful stories.
JK <email>
Washington Twp, NJ USA Sun 08/15/2004
Hotel Muguet and the Carte Musee
Just got back from Paris, and wanted add our thanks to Rick, Steve, and Gene for the 2004 Paris Book. We booked the Hotel Muguet - the staff was wonderful, the air conditioning a godsend, and the view of the Tour Eiffel from our room was spectacular.
As to the musuem pass, its worth every Euro - just for the time that you don't spend waiting in line. We estimate that in five days, we saved over eight hours of time by not standing in line at Versailles, the Louvre, Notre Dame and in particular St. Chapelle. I think we may have missed the unbelievable St. Chapelle if we had to wait in what looked to be a two hour line - our son would not have made it (me either) So if its close - get the pass - you'll be glad you did.
John K <email>
Sewell, NJ USA Sun 08/15/2004
Chez Agnes
We had the dining experience of a lifetime - and the food was good too! We went for my birthday, were greeted by Agnes (watch your pronunciation, I got bopped on the head for being incorrect) and Gypsy. Met two couples from Charlotte and were all treated like we were family. It's like going to visit with your grandmother. My son (11) will never forget the look he got when he ordered soup on a hot day and didn't finish his dinner. But be warned - eating here is not for everyone. It is not a pretentious, dress to impress, sniff the wine cork kind of place. It's a wonderful, comfort food with friends and family kind of place - (ask the poor English gentleman who was just a little too particular about his order and how it should be prepared). So if you want good food with a real original - visit Agnes and make sure you have plenty of time for dinner and stay to have some of her "apple juice" It's a real treat.
John Kauffeld <email>
Sewell, NJ USA Sun 08/15/2004
Travel cost
Oops--re my previous email regarding the cost of our trip to France. I actually miscalculated the debit card and our total cost was "only" $6945 including everything--plane fare, hotels, eating, train tickets, entry to events and museums. When I figured the difference in 2002 in the exchange rate for the dollar, our 2002 trip to GB would have cost $7500 this year. So I guess it is par for our trip this year. Oh, well--travel costs!
E Cleary <email>
USA Sun 08/15/2004
Louvre
My wife and I visited the Louvre on May 17, May 19 and May 22, 2004 and for the most part just loved the Museum. It was beautiful and beyond compare.
However, our visits were nearly ruined with patrons taking flash photographs and touching the statues throughout the galleries. My wife and I went up to a number of security guards and expressed our concerns about the flash photography. The security guards were very friendly and kind, but said that basically it is not a problem when people use flash photography. We have always been told that flashes severely age works of art. We have a hard time believing that flash photography is not damaging as other Museums with much less important art do not allow flash photography and some do not allow cameras at all. Also many of the security guards would just sit, sometimes with their eyes closed and not get out of their chairs. Others seemed to spend much of their time talking with other security guards and seemed oblivious about their real job duties. If we saw this type of behavior going on during our brief visit to Paris, one would fear it must be going on all of the time.
A few years ago when we visited the Louvre we did not see any of this type of behavior. We saw one teenage visitor leaning against 2-3 of your Greek statues with no one correcting her. Other visitors were routinely touching any sculpture they chose to. We were shocked. I know that many other museums - such as the Pompidou Center - with much less important works can control touching/flash photography. I cannot tell you how concerned I am that such important works of art are being damaged.
I think they need many more reminders to not touch/use flash photography throughout the museum. Then I think that the security guards need to follow up on any flashes or touching. People being what they are will need to be reminded and corrected. When we visited the National Gallery in London they did not allow cameras at all – flash or not. I would definitely prefer this to having the current state of flashes/touching going on which might cause irreparable damage to irreplaceable works of art.
I think that the more people are aware of and express their concerns, the more the Lourvre will need to respond to protect these works of art.
Don Weir <email>
USA Sat 08/14/2004
Trip to France
We just got all our bills (Visa, debit card) for our recent trip to France (July for 20 days) We stayed in very modest hotels (all with private bathroom though), ate picnic stye except for one meal a day, and that in modest cafes recommended in the guide book. For the two of us, backpacking and travelling on trains and buses the total was $8300. We have to find a less expensive way to travel (or win the lottery :). Two years ago we followed Rick's 21 day plan for Great Britain and even with renting a car, the total cost was around $6000. Prehaps the dollar being lower accounts for it. But I would welcome ideas. Does that cost seem reasonable?
Enid Cleary <email>
Wilmette, IL USA Sat 08/14/2004
Versaillles
RER C that takes you to Versailles is closed between Austerlitz and Invalides. Take a Metro to Invalides and transfer to RER C from there. BK
BK
Portland, OR USA Tue 08/10/2004
Pairs Highlight
Just one other thing about Paris: the most stunning experience you can possibly ever have is to walk up the spiral staircase in Saint Chapelle to the Upper Chapel and.... WOW..... as Rick says: "Fiat lux".
And if you get there on Rick's "historic Paris walk" you'll just have seen the Deportation Memorial, which in its simplicity and power makes you think of the Vietnam Memorial in DC.
Ray Clarke <email>
Malvern, PA USA Mon 08/09/2004
Hotel du Champ de Mars, Paris in general
Our family of 4 just spent 4 days in Paris as part of a month long Germany/Austria/Switzerland/Italy/France/London trip. Hotel du Champ du Mars was delightful. Immaculate rooms with view of the Eiffel Tower, local street action, etc. Breakfast delicious but came at a leisurely pace! Guidebook restaurant recommendations were completely accurate. Recommend the Sewer Tour, Musee d'Orsay and picnic in the Champ de Mars gardens. Picasso Museum mostly shut for renovations of some sort. Montmartre walk was fun but tough to follow directions especially if you try to make any modifications! Rick is so right about the Mona Lisa and the Eiffel Tower. No trouble with pickpockets but we were hyper-vigilant.
Ray Clarke <email>
Malvern, PA USA Mon 08/09/2004
Hotel Bourdonnais
This was our thrid trip to Paris and as usual Rick was there for us with one exception. We took our two children with us this trip and wanted to stay in the Rue Cler area. I choose the Hotel de la Bourdonnais and booked the junior suite for 215 euros per night. The room was just off to the left of the front desk but we never heard anything. My complaint with the room was that the micro airconditioner was unable to cool the room. It was cooler at the front desk with the front door open (in July) than it was in our room. Opening the windows was no help because being on the ground floor the windows had a wall that blocked people from looking in. There was zero draft. I asked the front desk to check the AC and maybe give us a fan to use. The small circular fan which did not go back and forth helped some but still not enough. The room was not worth it. The area was nice. Fran prix next door. Best dinner value was on Rue cler at a Chinese Rotisserie chicken place. Get the Carte orange if staying a week and the museum pass is a must. Over all we had a good time but it was no inexpensive.
JK
Nashville, TN USA Sun 08/08/2004
Versailles Crowds are Unbelievable & Parisians were Nice Folks
Rick's Parisian recommendations were right on. Rue Cler was just as we expected. Being in Paris on Bastille Day was a special treat (the fireworks at the Eiffel Tower were breathtaking). I highly recommend the Hotel de la Tulipe on Rue Malar. A bit expensive, but very clean/nice and only a couple of blocks off Rue Cler. The one disappointment was Versailles due to the crowds (even though the imposing line to enter moves fast). The compound is unbelievable in scope/size and grandeur, and the gardens are the best I've ever seen. The tour inside the chateau, however, was so unbelievably crowded that it was worthless. We literally could not move in some corridors/rooms. I would recommend touring the inside of the chateau only during slow times (we visited in the middle of the day). Getting to Versailles and back was made easy via taxi from central Paris (about 25 Euros each way). This is the best way to get to Versailles if you are in a hurry to catch a plane/train later in the day. Otherwise, the RER train to Versailles sounded like a very good alternative. Overall, we enjoyed Paris but liked London alot better. Finally, we did not encounter a single situation whereby Parisians were rude or displayed un-American tendencies. On the contrary, the people of Paris were very nice and were quick to speak English when our very limited French needed some help.
Mike
Overland Park, KS USA Sun 08/08/2004
Hotel du Champs de Mars
Hotel du Champs de Mars was tres chic and tres jolie.The owner was so sweet to my daughter and I.She was very helpful,and gave us advice about places to go and being safe. It is a stroll away from the Eiffel Tower and the Metro. Nice neighborhood.
The people in Paris were helpful and friendly. when we had to ask directions ( over and over) the people were kind and eager to help. We met no rudeness, no bad feelings towards us, no dog droppings. As a matter of fact even the dogs in Paris are polite. No leashes required. They greet each other kindly, and I never saw a misbehaving dog. We did see a very funny sight. we could hear a dog barking, and when we came round the corner there was a large dog with it's paws up on a windowcase. As we came closer we could wsee the owner of the butcher shop would throw bits to the dog, and then the dog would "woof woof" for more. It was right out of Lady and the Tramp.
Back to the Hotel though, the owner was very nice to us. When we left she gave my daughter a key-chain as a souvenier.We had breakfast sent to our room so we could eat at our leisure, and it was the best croissant I've ever tasted, along with juice, rolls, bread butter, jams, yogurt coffee and chocolate. I had a marvelous time in Paris.
Valerie <email>
Seattle, WA USA Sat 08/07/2004
Re: Hotel Muguet
GREAT GREAT GREAT!!! We were in Europe for 2 weeks this was the best hotel we stayed in! Fantastic. The owner was very helpful and gave us awesome tips. I would stay here again in a second. HUGE rooms AND bathrooms! We also were lucky enough to have a fantastic KODAK moment view of the Eiffel Tower outside our room!
Ellicott City, MD USA Tue 08/03/2004
Local Tours
We arranged for a 3 hour private walking tour with a guide from Paris Walks when we were there with our 10 and 12 year old kids. She brought the history of Paris alive for them, and afterwards they kept referring to things she told them as we went back for more in depth looks at the places she showed us. Very worthwhile!
Sue <email>
Newport Beach, CA USA Tue 08/03/2004
Sleeping
We just stayed at Hotel la Bourdonnais with our 2 kids and loved it. Nice size rooms, the staff was very helpful, and the location was great, near Rue Cler, Ecole Militare Metro and the Eiffel Tower. Found the self-guided tours sections of Rick's Paris book especially helpful. The "Orientation" section was a big help in knowing what to expect and how to use the Metro, and we found most everyone we met to be helpful and friendly.
Sue <email>
Newport Beach, CA USA Tue 08/03/2004
Hotel Du Pantheon Paris
Stayed last week at Hotel Du Pantheon in the Paris Latin Quarter. Your book was right on. Excellent little hotel. Request 5th or 6th floor for best view. Great value for the $$$.
sarah christman <email>
Dove Canyon, CA USA Sun 08/01/2004
rudeness
i agree with the people who say that the french are more reserved and polite. Manners are definitely a must in dealings with shop keepers etc. Always say Bonjour Madame, Mdms, Mr....etc and it helps when you leave always say merci madame etc even if you did not buy any thing. taking the time to learn a few french phrases is invaluable. as to pickpockets they are endemic in nyc and also sf working much same way as in any large city. you always have to keep your wits about you.
If you buy a map the parisians use called PARIS PAR ARRONDISEMENT you will have in one handy book (which has translations in eng italian and german as well) all streets in every area of paris and complete bus and subway and rer maps. some of the books even have useful suburban maps (versailles) you will see parisians using theirs to check metro stops etc. They are awailable at all newspaper stands in paris.
I always splurge for a french newspaper or magazine (I do read and speak French) but it is fun and cheap to buy a french ELLE which has great photos.....it makes a nice souvenier and you can hide your english mag in side.
Since the advent of the euro however you will encounter more and more people who not only speak english they also read english mags and books on their commutes. Parisians are no ruder than people I have encountered in San Francisco or other large cities...Everyone has a bad day.
Susanne
san anselmo, ca USA Thu 07/29/2004
Fixing Hotel Problems
First: Many of the posts below discuss the person who had a problem, not the problem itself. However, bigger mice might call for bigger mousetraps, not a sermon to the cat on mousecatching. : - )
So, you arrive at the hotel and something won't do.
Tip number 1: KISS. Keep it simple. Mention only the problems with the highest priority first. Decor is nice, but for most people a sound night's sleep is the priority.
Tip number 2: Be sure your proposed solution is practical to implement in the time allowed. Changing a hotel's decor or the bathroom fixtures is not practical in a few days. Changing the configuration of rooms booked might be. Also, some things might not be reversible. Taxis booked with a third party might not be wholly under the hotel's control. The firm might also have been picked by the hotel for reliability reasons, not price.
Tip number 3: Try to consider alternative solutions to your problem when taking it to the hotelier. Instead of "we need another/a better room" try "Our party needs a bigger bed or perhaps two beds. What do you suggest?"
Tip number 4. Be prepared to solve your problem in stages. The best solution might not occur to either you or the hotelier right away. Make it your first goal to improve the situation, not get rid of it entirely. Resist the urge to try and get it perfect, right away. In the above scenario, consider for the short term such solutions as:
** a portable cot
** doubling the number of rooms (expensive, but possibly cheaper than paying the cancellation penalty plus booking a different hotel) Book this option on a night-by-night basis. Be prepared to split your party up and have some go to another hotel in the immediate neighbourhood. Experiment. Think the unthinkable, if only for the next few hours.
And finally, tip number 5. Give the hotelier hope that this problem will be solved by the two of you eventually. Faith moves mountains, and if nothing else, feels better than despair.
Mac
CA Thu 07/29/2004
Paris
We spent a week in Paris and followed many of Rick's suggestions. As usual, his advice is priceless. We stayed at the Hotel Sansonnet in the Marais and had a wonderful experience. Unfortunately, the staff told us that the Sansonnet is being taken over by the hotel next door. I hope that it still merits a place in Rick's book -- it was a clean, affordable and central place to stay.
As noted in the book, the pickpockets are quite determined. I've been to Europe 9 times and have never even seen any until this trip. On a crowded Metro train, two guys very gently jostled me around while a third tried to pick my pocket. Because I was wearing a money belt, they didn't get anything -- it was an eerie experience, but as I look back on it, it was almost amusing.
Otherwise, we found the people in Paris to be as friendly (or unfriendly, depending on your perspective) as those of any other major city -- we encountered absolutely no Anti-American sentiment. As for sightseeing, the museum pass was a great deal, picnic lunches save you a lot of money, Vaux-le-Vicomte is just as much fun as Versailles . . . you name it, we found just about everything in the book to be true. Paris more than met my expectations. It was one of my best trips ever.
John <email>
Towson, MD USA Wed 07/28/2004
Rue Cler Gem
I just returned from a trip to France, where I led a group of 10 cyclists. We used Rick's books for the hotels, and the Hotel Muguet turned out to be quite a gem! I've stayed in other Rue Cler hotels, and have never had a bad experience. However, I will definitely return to the Muguet. Their staff was wonderful, the accomodations better than any I have had in Europe. It is recently remodeled, and absolutely beautiful, not to mention, extremely reasonably priced. I will definitely return!
Michell Haase <email>
Schaumburg, il USA Wed 07/28/2004
Paris Guidebook and Pere Lachaise Cemetery Tip
We spent a whirlwind day in Paris as an extension of Brussels long weekend earlier this month. I was amazed at how many others were also using Rick's guidebook! We found all of the info to be right on- actually we were pleasantly surprised to find out our metro day passes and a few other things were cheaper than the book mentioned.
One big tip- if you are planning to visit the Pere Lachaise cemetery (to perhaps visit Jim Morrison or Edith Piaf) be forewarned that the cemetery is ENORMOUS- and the walking surfaces are very uneven and irregular cobblestones. Buy a map of the layout from a flower shop outside the walls for 2 Euros and map out which graves you want to see. It took a good hour and a half to see three graves and my feet were ready for burial by the time we finished up!
This was my second trip to Paris since 1995- I found the locals friendlier this month than 9 years ago. The sentiment in Paris (as it is in many other cities) is NOT Anti-American, rather it is Anti-GWBushAdministration. We had no troubles from anyone. It was a great day and hopefully we'll get back for a third trip soon!
Stefanie S. <email>
Grand Rapids, MI USA Tue 07/27/2004
Paris
Le Bourdonnais restaurant was closed for renovation and no re-opening date was given.
Hotel de Lutece and Hotel des Deux Iles have a sister hotel in the Latin Quarter, Hotel Henri IV, Rive Gauche. It was newer than Lutece (where we also stayed) and also convenient to the metro but we found ourselves returning to Ile St. Louis for the dining and shopping. Had two lovely dinners at Le Tastevin and also tried a newly opened restaurant next to Hotel Lutece (Mon ???? Ami). The food was excellent.
Call ahead for the Chartres tour schedule. There was a wedding on the day we traveled and so we missed the tour.
We found the French to be formal and reserved but certainly not rude. As guests, it is our job to meet their expectations. We did not experience any anti-US sentiment other than disappointment that the French team was doing so poorly in Le Tour de France. With regards to the Metro, the people on it seemed like every other metropolitan subway I've ever ridden.
S. Barrows <email>
Fresno, CA USA Tue 07/27/2004
Kudos to RS Paris, a few tips and a great hotel find!
Great Guide: While I whined about Rick's Germany/Austria… book, I enjoyed his Paris Guide. I do wish he were more substantive at times, but I supplement his commentary with several months of my own art history and general history study for each place we visit. With that and with Rick's help, we not only eat, dress and get around like a local, we can put what we see and experience into a broader context and really BE wherever we are. At least once every trip, people ask US for directions! Yay! Thanks to Rick for showing us how to live lifestyle of serious and educated travel we can afford.
I would like more clothing tips for each season—perhaps a very short section in each book? Blending in really helps me feel more comfortable and makes me less of a target for theft and being taken advantage of.
A few tips:
Cover phrasebooks and other books you use in public and carry the ripped-out pages of your guides in a small black folder along with your maps. Nothing says "tourist" like whipping that stuff out on the corner, and nothing makes you more of a target on trains and subways (except perhaps talking loudly), but if your books are covered, you can refer to them at any time and be more informed and efficient.
Get a small dictionary so you can expand your vocabulary as you go, looking up words you see and hear a lot. Then use them. You'll be amazed at how much more connected you are and how much friendlier people seem.
Paris hotel recommendation: The Hotel Royal Cardinal, Left Bank. Good location, clean, good beds, SUPER staff! Some rooms tight. Some have balconies. All have bathrooms. Good rates. We just stayed there for a week and loved it. Room 207 is tops!
Ellen Vest <email>
Washington, DC USA Mon 07/26/2004
Monoprix
Monoprix are just about everywhere and have the best prices. The grocery story is in the basement and they have just about everything a tourist could want (fruit, bottled water, wine, bread, etc.). The housewares section has cork screws and knives. BUT, they are closed Sunday.
C. Shephard <email>
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Sun 07/25/2004
Metro Theft and Recovery
Foolishly disregarding Rick's safety tips on one day, we entered the Metro near the d"Orsay Museum with my wallet in the right hip pocket of some loose slacks. A 12 or 13 year old boy took it just after I went through the turnstile. Immediately aware of the theft and yellng "voleur," I turned to see the station agent pouncing on the kid. All was recovered, but I will never know if the agent released the kid or he broke free, because he was gone in the three seconds it took to hop back over.
Nelson Cleary <email>
Wilmette, IL USA Sat 07/24/2004
Grocery Stores
As far as grocery stores go, Monoprix is pretty much everywhere.
amanda <email>
minneapolis, mn USA Sat 07/24/2004
Hotel de la paix
I would like to say that I will NEVER ever purchase another Rick Steves book...EVER! I stayed with my mother at the Hotel de la Paix which was recommended in the Paris book in March, and it was the WORST hotel experience I have had in my life. The place was filthy, and I had not been notified of the fact that payment is required upon check in, that the dump would be run by thieving gypsies, or that it is impossible to find the place due to the fact that it's literally in an ALLEY that is not on ANY map of Paris. I also have it on good authority that Rick doesn't actually STAY at the hotels recommended in his books. I have confirmation of this fact by a hotel proprietor who advised me that Rick and his assistant came by and just kind of walked through their establishment. How does this man justify putting places like the Paix in his book???
amanda <email>
minneapolis, mn USA Sat 07/24/2004
Paris hotel
We just returned from 20 great days in France. Only one disappointment hotelwise: The Hotel de la Paix in the rue cler area. They require payment up front for the stay. After 5 days we travelled to other areas and then returned to Paris for 2 days, having reservations paid for at the Hotel de la Paix. When we arrived they had no record of our reservation. Luckily we had the paperwork and after 45 minutes at the reception they finally granted us a room--at first one which hadn't been cleaned and then finally one we could use. They are very disorganized. Other recommended hotels we used in France were great!!!!!
Enid Cleary <email>
Wilmette, IL USA Fri 07/23/2004
grocery stores & the French
A tip for the guidebook: As a family of 4 traveling, we found it extremely expensive to eat in Paris! We loved finding a little grocery store & were able to get great lunches & snacks there. However, it was very difficult to find them! (Except the Rue Cler neighborhood, of course). Could you please list grocery stores in your guidebooks, as important as you list attractions? We really think more people could use that info & if you listed ones in close proximity to your listed hotels, it would be great.
To readers: Do not, repeat, do NOT think the French are rude. I agree with someone on this site who said it is all in how you approach them--as it is with any human! We were all smiles & in wonderful moods because we fell in LOVE with Paris, and we found the French people wonderful. We had two separate times when a Parisian came up TO US on a street corner when we were obviously reading our map & looking lost, and ask us if we needed help with directions. Not only that, while waiting at street corners to cross, we constantly had cars stop and beep & motion us to cross! This would never happen in California, let me tell you! If you start every encounter with bonjour or bonsoir, you will be off to a great start. Be friendly, and you will attract friendliness.
Rhonda Darnell
Roseville, CA USA Thu 07/22/2004
Family hotel in Paris
I had trouble finding affordable accommodations for a family of 4 in Paris, so I went with a chain hotel, Novotel. If you are travelling with children, take a look at novotel.com. Novotel is part of the Accor chain, but the outstanding thing about Novotel in particular is that 2 kids under 16 stay free with a parent, and get a free buffet breakfast (presumably if the parents pay for a meal). They are all over Europe. We stayed at the Novotel Gare de Lyon in Paris, and the Novotel in Nimes. The Paris hotel was terrific, and I got special internet rates so the average price was about 135 Euros per night for four of us. The room was large, with a queen bed and a daybed with trundle, so both kids got their own bed. It was air-conditioned and totally soundproof, the breakfast was great, there was an indoor pool, and the kids loved the game-room with foos ball and playstation. I also appreciated being out of the heavily touristed areas; our hotel was filled with French business people during the week, and French families on the weekend, so it seemed more like we were experiencing life in France. I recommend it, especially if you have hungry teenagers!
Paris was great, of course. I recommend taking buses when you can. We made our own tour of the Champs Elysses on a city bus, and also enjoyed trips along the Seine with great views. Slower than the Metro, but very pleasant. Major museums and attractions other than the Eiffel Tower were not at all crowded, much to my surprise. I think all the French were at the summer sales, as the stores were completely mobbed.
Kathy F.
Seattle , WA USA Thu 07/22/2004
Hotel la Bourdonnais
Hotel la Bourdonnais. My husband, daughter and I stayed here for five days the week of Bastille Day. I would highly recommend the hotel. The room was large size and the highlight was a balcony with a view of the Eiffel Tower. The location is great - near a Metro stop, Rue Cler market and there is a supermarket next store. The staff is very friendly and helpful. We had a great time in Paris and the French were friendly with us.
Wendy Dahar <email>
Solon, OH USA Thu 07/22/2004
Paris - What a City!
My husband and I were in Paris for a week at the beginning of June and stayed at the Hotel Riviera in the 17th district. I would recommend this 2 star hotel which is only 1 1/2 blocks from the Arc de Triomphe. The staff at the hotel were very pleasant and helpful. Rooms were a bit small, but that's to be expected. We asked for a twin room since they are larger and ended up with a double bed and a single bed. The bathroom was larger than expected. The cost per night was 80 Euros. We used some of the suggestions in Rick's book and brought along Rick's map which was very helpful. Paris is a wonderful city to walk in. Some suggestions/highlights:
1. Have the African hot chocolate and a pastry at Angelina's which is across from the Jardin Des Tuileries. It is pricey, but worth every penny, what an experience! It was very filling and was lunch that day.
2. Venture outside the 7th district for restaurants, etc. Paris has wonderful places in all corners.
3. Montmatre - we took an Original Paris Walks walking tour (sister to Original London Walks) of Montmatre on a sunny clear Sunday morning. It was glorious. The Sacre Coeur is a must and the view over Paris is great.
4. One thing we weren't prepared for is that Paris basically shuts down on Sunday (except for the Champs Elysees). You will need to look a bit harder for a cafe that is open.
I got a lot of really good suggestions from fellow travelers on this site. I would go to Paris again in a heart beat!
C. Shephard <email>
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Wed 07/21/2004
The Rude French
I was so glad we seem to be off of the "Anti-American" diatribe that it was almost comforting to read about people complaining about the French, especially Parisians, being rude. My husband is French, typically so, and I have friends who are died in the wool New Yorkers (read: thick skinned) who find him rude and aloof. While I had spent about 10 years trying to explain the differences between us and the French, and with very little success at that, I officially gave up that role about two years ago and have been much happier. Now my friends can either like him or lump him depending. The truth is that France is not for everyone but I appreciate the posters who have at least given it a try and have decided that they do not wish to go back based on actual experience. Much more informed than the individuals who will not go because of the "war" or because they have simply heard that the French are rude. I feel that way about a number of cities and in fact a few countries I myself have visited. We are all allowed our opinions, after all.
Joeley
Hyde Park, NY USA Mon 07/19/2004
Re: Rudeness
I feel that I must come to the defense of the French. They are not rude, no more so than any other culture. The French are very reserved. They do not generally respond to a smile from a stranger, and "loud" voices make them very uncomfortable. I have traveled to Paris twice -- once alone, and once with a friend. Every time I hesitated in the Metro, or appeared the slightest bit lost, a Parisian always stopped and asked (in French, then in English) if I needed directions. I have had countless polite encounters, and many delightful conversations with the French, and only encountered one rude person. I have, however, encountered dozens of "Ugly Americans," and cringed with embarrassment. I never attempt to hide the fact that I am American (yes, I wear jeans and white athletic shoes in Paris.) I speak French, but even if you do not, begin every encounter with "Bonjour" (or "Bonsoir" in the evening,) and end with "Merci," and you should have no problems at all. Many people are intimidated by the notion that the French are rude, and won't travel to France for that reason. Don't ever let this fear stop you from traveling to France for the first time, or returning after a difficult experience.
Lisa <email>
Lansing, MI USA Fri 07/16/2004
Hotel Royal Phare, Paris
Hotel Royal Phare, Paris I stayed in this hotel a few days a go and I loved it, I got a double room with a wonderful view, very clean, the location is perfect ( near rue cler, 10min from the Eiffel tower, supermarket just in front, a bank next to the hotel…the metro at 10 meters), also, the staff is very helpful, all this for a reasonable price of 70 euros.
Linda Hardridge <email>
Dallas, tx USA Thu 07/15/2004
Re: Rude Parisians
We spent 4 days in Paris three months ago--my first trip to France, the land of my ancestors. I have studied French for eight years so am able to understand much of the language and also speak it, though not fluently. All of the monuments, museums, etc., were fabulous and thrilling and everything I had expected and more! However, Parisian behavior was extremely disappointing in that it was rude, condescending, unhelpful, COLD. Metro riders icily looked us up and down, left and right and did not break their stare even if our eyes met. Very disconcerting. (There would be nothing remarkable in our attire or demeanor or physical appearance to warrant this.) People on the street avoided eye contact so as not to have to speak as we approached politely with map in hand. If I paused a second trying to search for a word, the person jumped in swiftly to correct me or finish the sentence. A "I know your language but you struggle with mine" glare in the eye. There were a few helpful folks and for those exceptions we were most grateful--a French gentleman who teaches English at the local university and took any opportunity to speak to Americans and practice his (flawless) English, a few young people, service employees such as waiters (they are paid to be nice). Thankfully, nowhere else in Europe did we encounter the overall poor treatment we received in Paris. London and Prague were simply wonderful!!!Friendly, warm, welcoming, helpful people in those countries and we will surely return there one day.
Jane
IA USA Thu 07/15/2004
rude parisians
Well I have been going to Paris now for over twenty five years and have as yet to find one rude person .It maybe in how you approach people. If you are generally interested in their culture and life and realize that they have a wonderful sense of culture and place you should not have had a problem. In my vast experience I have found those travelers who say they have fouund rude people are usually people who demanded things that were usual in America and not usual in other places. (i.e. iced drinks) who failed to heed ricks advice about how to order food in other places...I once witnessed a very ugly american incident in a nice restaurant where the waiter (who spoke english )tried to tell the customer who insisted he wanted rare steak that perhaps he did not really want BLEu when the steak came the poor waiter was berated for some time by this nice texan gentleman. (by the way this same person insisted on ordering chardonnay and was quite put out that there were no california wines available. he was the real ugly american.. any how never had this problem nor has the spouse who does not speak french.
Susanne
Ca USA Thu 07/15/2004
Parisians
We just got back from Europe and we spent several days in Paris. We loved the city and the sights. Parisians on the other hand were nasty to us. One of us spoke French and we both were very careful to be polite and greet people in French and using French as much as possible. This did not seem to matter much as we were still treated rudely. Parisians are not very tolerant of anyone who is not French as we witnessed this treatment to other foreign tourists quite often. We loved our stays in Germany, Belgium, U.K. and Ireland very much and found people very friendly, helpful and generous. Needless to say we'll not be returning to Paris anytime soon.
Brad Townsend <email>
Portland, OR USA Tue 07/13/2004
Hotel Muguet and Segway tour
Paris lived up to expectations again! This time we stayed at Hotel Muguet in the 7th-very nice and well located for the Tour Maubourg Metro (the metro stop at Ecole Militaire is being fixed.) We had a blast on the Paris Segway tour. We did a night ride, and it was a real highlight. Very easy to ride and quite an experience as tour buses slowed to get our picture!
Gini <email>
Grand Ledge, MI USA Sun 07/11/2004
Guide books
We used Rick's Paris guide book & it was very helpful.Saved money by following his tours doing them ourselves. I also used the London book. It was great. Thanks Rick.
Rob
Racine, wi USA Sat 07/10/2004
90 euro taxis
The taxis fare (for two taxis for five people plus luggage) sounds correct.....depending on the size and amount of luggage the cabs charge for the luggage. I too think there is something wrong with the rant about the taxis and the hotel......perhaps these people were expecting Motel Six or Holiday Inn type of travel we have taken taxis many times to and from the airport and with several pieces of luggage have found the fare to be about 35 to 45 euros so the 90 euros for two taxis seems fare to me. If you stick with Parisian or Bleu companies you have the fares posted and these include extra for luggage. we have never had a problem with drivers and have always enjoyed talking to them.
Susanne
Fairfax, Ca USA Fri 07/09/2004
Hotel Royal Phare: Different room, different condition?
Gosh, my experience was completely different from Stan's at the Hotel Royal Phare. My room (no. 75) was spotlessly clean--and I am picky about these things, believe me. Stan may be right, that it's a good idea to see the room before you accept it.
Mary
San Luis Obispo, CA USA Tue 07/06/2004
Restrooms in Paris
As an insulin-dependent diabetic, clean and private restrooms are important for me to do my multiple blood tests and insulin injections every day. Paris presents one of the greatest challenges in this area of any large european city.
The public restrooms in Paris are frequently poor. In some there is no privacy and a diabetic is rightfully a bit scared what people may think as you inject yourself with medication. Others are just filthly. Last month the restrooms across from Notre Dame and across the river from the Eiffel Tower smelled so bad of raw sewage that even this old sewer expert could not tolerate it. Also often you have no place to sit down to do your medical work as there is just a hole in the ground a a place to anchor your feet.
My recommendation are restrooms in eateries. Almost every eatery in Paris has a restroom though they are often shared by both genders. They all have locking doors, toilets, and nice sink, etc. I recommend that if you do not stay to eat at least buy a beverage or give them a little money for your use of the facilites. You cannot go wrong with these important parts of a vacation infrastructure!
Stan Biles
blue river, or USA Sat 07/03/2004
Paris
I just returned from a month in Europe, my fifteenth back door trip using Rick's books as our guide. We had some great and not so great experiences in Paris.
First, we booked into the Royal Phare based on Rick's advice and the comments from posters here in February. It was a disaster. I do not recommend it or at least rooms 26 and 46. They were filthy. Human hair on the floor. The toenail clippings of previous guests on the floor, plaster hunks the size of Rick's book falling in the bathroom, water running in the toilet bowl all the time. If you stay here make certain to check the room before signing any paperwork.
We moved to a great hotel also recommended by Rick, Hotel Ares. It was perfect. I highly recommend it.
Second, do not walk Rue Cler on a Monday morning. 50% of the stores are closed. And as luck would have it all of the businesses recommended by Rick were closed. Wait till the afternoon.
Third, if you have a wide rolling bag you will have a tough time in some of the METRO stations. Some have one or two floors of stairs. Also, getting though the turnstiles can be tough especially if you cannot lift your bag over your head and pass it to someone on the other side.
Fourth, the L'Orange museum will be closed for at least another year. This was annonced just as we arrived. As they were doing the repairs they discovered some ancient artifacts and all work has been put on hold. There is a rumor that some of their collection may be sent to other Paris museums during the repair.
Fifth, I strongly recommend buying food at the fast food asian place on Rue Cler that is on Rick's map in the book. It is top notch and it is great to take it and a bottle of wine to the Eiffel Tower park and have a great picnic.
Sixth, beware of the Arab pickpocket gang that works under the Eiffle Tower. When you offer them money to buy one of their minature towers they grab your purse, or billfold, or fanny pack and start running. As the police chase them they toss your money to others like basketball players while the single policeman tries to catch the thief. I saw this happen twice in thirty minutes. Neither victium got their stuff back. Do not talk with them and do not offer to buy anything from them.
Seventh, I agree with a previous poster that the Profiterlos at Papa's near Rue Cler are the best in the city. I have had many of these great deserts. These are the best. Their food is good too. They are huge so plan to share and get a picture of them when they arrive.
Lastly,if you need to change stations or go from a train station to one of the airports Air France offers bus service every half hour for a very modest fee. It is worth the price just to see the driver handle a large bus in the Paris traffic.
stan biles
blue river, or USA Sat 07/03/2004
Reservation policy: Hotel Royal Phare
"DP" asked a question about reservation policies. In my experience, the Hotel Royal Phare in Paris is typical of small European hotels. You provide your credit card info to hold the room for you; there is no actual "deposit." Then when you arrive, they will ask you if you want to bill your stay to that credit card--it's not automatic. The Hotel Royal Phare's cancellation policy is 24 hours before arrival date. I have never had a problem making reservations by this method and have used email for a few years now. The Hotel Royal Phare was very responsive by email, too--I had a response in just a few hours.
Mary
San Luis Obispo, CA USA Fri 07/02/2004
Hotel Relais Bosquet
Hotel Relais Bosquet website (www.relaisbosquet.com) says they are offering WWII Veterans and their families a discount on room rates for 2004. I thought this was very kind and wanted people to know about it.
Susan
San Francisco, CA USA Thu 07/01/2004
Great Experience in France
I spent last week in France with six of my friends. We flew in to Paris and stayed two nights at the Hotel de Turenne. Then I stayed one night by myself at the Grand Hotel Leveque. Both hotels were recommended by my Rick Steves Paris 2004 guidebook. During the trip, we did many of the things that Rick Steves suggested: a boat ride on the Seine, the Rue Cler walk (picking up lunch supplies...and then we had a picnic in the gardens of Versailles), the self-guided tour of Versailles, the Cluny museum, the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Arc du Triomphe, part of the walk down the Champs Elysees, Chartres Cathedral, and Sainte-Chapelle. We also ate at two of the recommended restaurants: the one with "septieme" in its name on La Motte-Picquet, and its sister restaurant on the corner of Rue Cler and Rue de Champs de Mars (I apologize for not being able to recall the names).
We did not have a “miss” with any of Rick Steves’s suggestions. We found them all to be solid recommendations. Also, I was very impressed with the way that people with a Rick Steves book would talk to strangers with Rick Steves books. I made a new friend on the train ride to Chartres, and I talked to a very nice family at Sainte-Chapelle…and all because we all saw each other reading Rick Steves guides. Unfortunately, the last part of our stay was in an area not covered by the guidebooks. But all in all, it was a great experience.
Traci <email>
Houston, Tx USA Thu 07/01/2004
Just got back
HI, Just got back from 10 days in Paris. It was great. A large part due to Rick's book. Thanks for the recommdation for the French grown strawberries. They were delicious. Also we were grateful to have a carte orange. As Rick mentioned in the book and I read on this message board, we were denied the first time we asked for one but asked at another ticket booth and received one.
The Metro system was great. It was so easy to travel anywhere in the city. We were surprised how expensive it was to eat in restaurants and buy food at shops. I think that was our biggest expense.FYI Using my ATM I took 100 euros out of my account and was charged 122.66 and a fee of 3.00 even though I used the bank recommended by B of A. I look forward to returning to Paris.
Jan
Truckee, CA USA Thu 07/01/2004
Hotel Lyon Mulhouse
Just returned from a stay in Paris. Stayed at the Hotel Lyon Mulhouse near the Bastile. It is a wonderful little hotel. No breakfast included, but rooms were roomy, clean and well done. Staff were all very helpful to us each time we had a question. Had a metro stop just outside the hotel, so had easy access to all of Paris. I would recommend the place to anyone!
Mary
WI USA Tue 06/29/2004
Paris was hot in early June
I was not expecting a hot Paris in early June. Being too hot to sleep without a/c, we routinely stayed up till one am. The Rue Cler area is okay but I would look around for other possibilities next time. Our nearest metro stop was closed and unfortunately we had to do far too much walking. I was surprised that it didn't get dark until after 10 o'clock. 3 days is not enough time to appreciate the city.
The Hotel de la Paix Tour Eiffel was on a quiet side street.The room was very tight for 4 people,had a nice bathroom and at times offered intimate views into neighboring apartments. We were lost in the Louvre(very big).French pastry shops are an art gallery in themselves and boy do they taste good. Cafe du Papa in the 7th near the Eiffel was delicious and affordable.
Tonye Usher <email>
Sulphur Springs, TX USA Tue 06/29/2004
Love those walking tours
This post is two years after the fact, but I want to add that I would not visit a major European city without a Rick Steve's guide (if one was available.) When my daughter & I visited Paris, we had the guidebook open most of the time. We took several of his walking tours and also used it for a guide through Versailles and several art museums. His walking tours got us off the beaten track and into some very interesting neighborhoods where a tour bus would have never gone. We especially enjoyed the Marais walk that starts at the Bastille.
While we mostly used the Metro for transportation, I would like to encourage everybody to take at least one taxi ride, especially at night. The lights of the city were magnificent!
Karen Herreid <email>
Austin, MN USA Mon 06/28/2004
Paris
Just returned from visiting Paris with my husband stationed in the military in Germany. Had a great time used many of Rick's suggestions.Hotel Turrene was ok with very small rooms but near many sights so worth it. Encountered some rude people some nice people just like anywhere. Have come to the realization that it's nice to visit other countries but the U.S.A. is truly the greatest country on earth! Anyway I speak some french which seemed to go over well with the natives and impress my husband ! Good luck in your travels.
Cbucholz
va beach , va USA Mon 06/28/2004
Queen size bed in Paris
Stayed at a wonderful hotel in Paris a couple of years ago called Hotel de France Invalides. Paid less than $90 then for a room with a queen size bed....yes there is such a thing in Europe. With today's exchange rate, the same room is going for about $113.00. Wonderful neighborhood. We could see the dome from Hotel de Invalides from our room and the Eiffel Tower lit up when we would stop for a last glass of wine at the local restaurant that we made our "home" for breakfast every morning for a week. You can find this gem of a hotel on the www.parishotel.com website.
Judy
Virginia Beach, VA USA Sun 06/27/2004
reservation policies
In general, hotels in Europe request your CC number because they will charge you for one night (or more) if you do not cancel the reservation far enough in advance.
Do you travel with reservations in the US? Same thing, although the US policies are typically more forgiving (eg., cancel by 4 pm) whereas many hotels in Europe have 3 day, 7 day, or even 2 week advance notice cancellation policies. In each case you should request in writing the hotel's cancellation policy - sometimes it is on the website, or they sometimes send it to you as an email attachment.
In one case I recall that a hotel in London actually charged my card in advance for the first night of a 2 night stay. One word of caution: be very cautious about sending your CC information in an unsecured email. It is better to give out your CC only over the phone, or do as I do, fax it to the hotel. Email is not a good idea for transmitting valuable info.
John Russell
Charlottesville, VA USA Fri 06/25/2004
Reservation Policy question
Question to anyone and possibly from Mary from SLO about booking via email: When you contacted the Royal Phare Hotel and provided them with your Visa/MC information to reserve your selected dates, was this just a reservation? Do you know whether your billig info was to hold your dates? Did you recall what their cancellation policy was? I had sent in an email to check on availability for my dates and since it was available, they asked for my card info to "guarantee my booking". I'm planning to ask them what that exactly means but would like to hear from others first of their experience so I know what I'm getting in to. (Yes, I am somewhat of an anal person :)
DP <email>
San Francisco, CA USA Fri 06/25/2004
Positive Paris experience
I just spent a week in Paris (a woman, age 43, traveling alone) and stayed at one of Rick's recommended hotels, the Hotel Royal Phare. What a quaint little place! My single room was 65 Euros/night, located on the courtyard side on the top (7th) floor--with a full-blown Eiffel Tower view. Everything was very clean, and the service was excellent. I had called ahead and told them I was arriving early, and my room was ready when I arrived at 10 am. It was also fully cleaned by noon every day. http://hotel-royalphare-paris.com. Great location, too, with just a few steps landing you at a metro stop. An ATM and public phone are right outside the front door.
The gentlemen at the front desk were charming and helpful, especially if one said a few "magic words" in French (can't do the proper accent marks here, but you get the idea!): 1. Excusez-moi de vous deranger (Excuse me for disturbing you); 2. Bonjour, Monsieur; 3. S'il vous plait; 4. Merci. It still amazes me how many Americans don't use those common courtesy phrases when in Paris. Can't tell you how many times I overhead Americans talking to hotel staff and store clerks quite rudely, without even trying to say these polite phrases, in French OR English.
One other note: I have visited Paris several times, most recently two years ago. I noticed a BIG change this time--everything is much cleaner. I saw men with green brooms sweeping the streets and hosing down the sidewalks every morning. The Metro was less grimy (and also less smelly!), and I saw far fewer beggars and panhandlers, as well--especially on the Metro cars (only saw a couple the entire week).
For women traveling alone: I am considered somewhat attractive, but everyone treated me respectfully. I had one man approach me, but I just ignored him. A couple gave me "le look," which I acknowledged with a polite nod but no verbal response (which might have seen as an invitation).
My advice: Speak those few phrases in French, even if you don't say them with a proper accent. The French really place a lot of value on acknowledging one another in this way, so follow their conventions and you'll be seen as a tourist who respects them. You'll also get better service if you dress up a bit, so do so, if possible.
Mary <email>
San Luis Obispo, CA USA Thu 06/24/2004
Excellent companion
My wife and I spend a wonderful week in Paris. Thanks to Rick Steves, we were guided through a most exciting journey (who would have thought to pack binoculars for Sainte-Chapelle) -- excellent suggestions. It was as if Rick was with us every step of the way.
We stayed in a small, 2 star, Latin Quarter hotel, Mont Blanc, which was understandably not on the recommended list. It was inexpensive with very small rooms and the street (rue de la Huchette) is noisy for sure, but it would be hard to beat the location. We walked nearly everywhere (2 or 3 blocks to Notre Dame) or via the metro only a half block away at St. Michel Square. It would not be for everyone -- but we loved the entire experience. The French were warm, friendly and welcoming. Thanks for the tips. Next trip: Northern Italy. I'm studying Rick's book now!
Robb Grimm <email>
Ft Lauderdale, FL USA Thu 06/24/2004
Carol and the La Tour Maubourg...
Well at least you have cleared up the matter regarding queen beds, and you also admit that you did not get the hotel from one of his books but from an anonymous poster on this forum, but still I scratch my head over your original complaint and the action you took to rectify the problem. Overseas travel is an adventure to be sure, but I am stunned that you forfeited $3000 in hotel payments simply because the hotel owner/manager was rude or was having a bad day. You would have saved yourself $3000 and a ton of grief if you had only purchased the current edition RS Paris Guide book for under $20.
I am no shill for Rick Steves, but I have been traveling to Europe for over 20 years and I always buy the current edition of his book(s) before each trip. I fi