Fringe Europe
Everybody does Paris, Amsterdam, and the Cinque Terre these days. But what about fringe Europe: Norway's Spitzbergen, Portugal's Azores, Ukraine, Albania? If you're gone to the edge — and lived — here's your chance to talk about it. Thanks for the inspiration!
- Please don't post questions here. Use our Travelers Helpline.
Tangier, Morocco
Tangier was the highlight of our trip. The Saveur de la Medeterranee restaurant was FABULOUS!! But we could have used better guidelines on how to pick a guide. We were virtually accosted by potential guides as we got off the boat, some claiming to be officials from the tourist office. Once we got someone who didn't seem to be quite so aggressive, I didn't really know the appropriate questions to ask. We told our guide we weren't interested in the snake charmers or camel rides, and wanted to see how the people live and the culture. He still took us to a carpet shop and souvenir shop and tried to push us to go to a restaurant Rick said was extremely touristy. He also gave an initial price of 50 Euros at first; I told him the book said it would cost 15, we compromised at 20 (for 2-3 hours) but I still wonder if we got ripped off? His English seemed good but he didn't answer a lot of our questions - not sure if this was a language issue, a cultural difference or he didn't know the answers but didn't want to say so. If I had it to do over again I would arrange ahead of time with the guide Rick recommends (although it is good we didn't do that because the ferry got cancelled due to bad weather on the day we had originally planned to go). Still, despite feeling out of our element with the guide situation, Tangier was absolutely worthwhile. We were incredibly impressed with the diversity and with the friendliness of the people. We ventured into the Medina on our own after our tour guide finished with us, and the vendors were easy to shake off if we weren't interested. The children were delightful and loved speaking to us in their few words of Spanish or even English. Don't be nervous, go to Morocco and have a great time -- we did!!
Ellen <email>
Aurora, ON Canada 05/09/2008
Great Trip to Egypt. Thanks Rick!
We recently returned from a wonderful, two week trip to Egypt on 4/4/08. Thanks to Rick Steves (our favorite travel buddy), we crossed the Nile on the local ferry, rode bikes and accepted an invitation from some local farmers to come in to their house for tea (and coke a cola). We wanted to recommend a great little spot we found on the bikes. If you take your first left off the local ferry (on the West Bank) and ride all the way down the dirt road, paralelle to the Nile, you end up at Al-Salam Camp. It is a traditional, open restaurant with woven rugs on the furniture and hanging above, giving one a cool place for a cold drink and a meal. There are small, clean Boudoin tent style rooms with celing fans, mosqutio nets and shared bath/showers for about $15/ night, USD. Dinner is available over an open fire with a warm, welcoming host who speaks English. We did not stay here as we already were at the Winter Palace Pavillion (per Rick's recommendation...and we loved it!) but would stay next time for a very authentic experience.
We also loved Maximes for dinner in Luxor. It is clean, non-smoking (!), good food (order the stuffed pigion the night before...it's a great local treat!), well located and friendly. A full dinner for 2, with tip was $14 USD.
We stayed half of the time in budget hotels (which are VERY budget but we learned how most of the people really live) and half on a Nile cruise (Brenden Tours/4 nights/$370 USD) and at the Winter Palace Pavillion in Luxor. It was a good balance between a genuine, 'back door' experience and resting in more westernized comforts. Thanks Rick!
Dave and Wendy <email>
San Francisco, CA USA 05/04/2008
Tras-os-Montes, Portugal
The Tras-os-Montes region in Northeast Portugal is a pristine, undiscovered world. There are more little castles here per square mile than anywhere else in Europe. Start in Vila Real and head to Braganca taking the smallest roads possible towards the East.
If you're lucky you'll run into pockets of people still speaking a form of vulgar Latin called "Romance." Easily as backdoor and "non-touristy" as anywhere in Macedonia or Croatia.
USA 04/13/2008
I lived in Lulea, Sweden during one semester (August 2001 - December 2001) and the following summer as well. Lulea is about 10 miles (?) from the Arctic Circle. It is beautiful, very picturesque, and I realized those places in classical country side paintings actually exist. It is 100% pedestrian-friendly, I believe you can cross Sweden with a bike, there are trails everywhere. The people are intelligent and nice. I saw the aurora borealis. The town has a very European main street lined with cafes. Xmas is very cozy here, with all the darkness people put up lights everywhere. It is a place that made me appreciate the diversity of Planet Earth. Wintertime the firs were white with snow and the sky was pink, it really felt like I was in another planet.
Min
PR USA 03/08/2008
Ohrid, Macedonia
Macedonia, one of the most overlooked European destinations. My wife, Serije is from Ohrid. We met in 1977 and the rest is history. Ohrid, is a very charming town on the shores of Lake Ohrid. In the Middle Ages, Ohrid was called the Slavic Jerusalem. Today, the modern town of Ohrid is a spiritual, cultural and tourist center. From Ohrid, it’s only a short drive to Albania and/or Greece if you desire to continue your journey through Europe. Each year Ohrid hosts the Ohrid Summer Festival which presents an exquisite dignity and a distinctive cultural richness of both Ohrid and the Republic of Macedonia. It’s also a part of the European Festival Association.
Even though my focus has been on Ohrid, the entire country is beautiful and worth a visit. The diversity of the people lends to the old world feeling you will have as you drink coffee in the cafés overlooking the lake or when you’re walking through the old town doing a bit of shopping.
If you haven’t been there, maybe it’s time to go.
Frank <email>
Killeen, Texas USA 02/10/2008
Kosovo
I went to Kosovo in January 2005 and had a wonderful time. The people were friendly and really liked Americans which was a nice change of pace. Prizren and Peja were beautiful (buildings and mountains), and Prishtina was a lot of fun (clubs, restaurants, cafes). I would monitor the political situation prior to planning a trip there due to the unresolved issue of Kosovo's independence. There were a couple of bomb threats/actual bombings while I was there and lots of NATO soldiers all over the place, so it's not for the faint at heart. Nevertheless, it was a very charming place in its own way. I met only one other traveller (British) while I was there, so if you want to go somewhere with no tourists, this is your place.
Sara
Chicago, IL USA 10/29/2007
Belgrade, Serbia
A friend and I just spent a few days in Belgrade, Serbia - what a wonderful city! The people were so friendly and compared to other parts of Western Europe, the prices seemed really reasonable. This is a city definitely worth a few days visit. Unfortunately, since its not listed in Rick Steves's book on Eastern Europe we were left to our own devices to find lodging and ended up in a not so nice place. I really hope that he will consider adding something in the future. It is a city I will go back to, especially when the weather is warmer and we can sit and enjoy the plethora of outdoor cafes!
Julie
Budapest, Hungary 10/28/2007
Disappointing experience: Daniel Dumitru Popovici Romanian tour guide
We have taken a private tour of Romania in June of 2007. Our assigned tour guide and driver was Daniel Dumitru Popovici who acted childish the whole time. He was lacking the basic knowledge for the extended itinerary we took. His explanations of the various tourists sites were minimal. We thought he was an amateur that got to guide our tour only by accident as it was obvious he was not familiar with the towns and villages we passed through.
On our last night he totally forgot to take us to the included dinner to a traditional restaurant, dropped us off at the hotel and literally disappeared. We called the local agent the next morning and got reimbursed for the dinner.
Although we loved the country and especially the villages, the poor experience with Daniel Dumitru Popovici as a guide left a bitter taste.
Jeanne Bedell
USA 09/05/2007
Slovakia
I lived in Bratislava for about 8 months - working with the fuzz. I recorded some of the stuff I did on my blog... http://fencehopping.blogspot.com/
Just ignore the parts that aren't about Slovakia.
And somebody convince Rick to come and lecture my class! I've been forcing my freshman writing classes at SDSU to read his "Innocents Abroad" for two years now. They love it - or at least I've decided they do.
Jon
San Diego, CA USA 08/02/2007
Bratislava
After spending five months living in Bratislava, I would like to share some advice. Bratislava is a nice small city, but a day trip (at most) for most travelers. The train from Vienna is easy. Remember to validate your bus tickets as soon as you get on (not validating can mean a fine of up to 3,000 koruna or about 120 USD). Spend the day in the historic old town (Stare Mesto). For cheaper food, eat off of the main streets. The food, in general, is not great. Avoid the pre-made sandwiches that are sold for $1 at every mom and pop grocery store; they're cheap and terrible. The fancy looking restaurants came with high price tage (at least for a student budget), but nothing is as expensive as other big European cities. There's also a great hot chocolate cafe in old town. Most young people and waitstaff speak English; older people will either ignore you or speak in Slovak like you can understand them. Knowing German is a plus, but not required. Nightlife is almost non-existent, except for three or four clubs, and usually not worth the trip. If you want to dance a little, the last train back to Vienna runs at about 1 am, so feel free to hang out until midnight and catch a taxi to the train station. In general, Bratislava is good for those that want a half day in a small city in between big sight-seeing cities. It's a nice place to relax, stroll beside the Danube, and do much of nothing. If you're looking for high culture and excitement, head to Prague or Vienna. It's very inexpensive, but not very exciting. Spend your travel time elsewhere unless you have a special interest in Slovakia.
Anne
Houston, TX USA 06/23/2007
Budapest
Had a great time in Budapest with private tour guide Claudia Szigety. Excellent command of English together with a great personality and wit. We have been to Budapest several times before but this last trip was truly the best. caludia helped us seeing this wonderful city in a totally different light. Email us if interested in more details.
Sam and Barb Patel
Sam Patel <email>
St. Paul, MN USA 06/11/2007
Limburg
Maybe this doesn't fit the exact definition, but I enjoyed a recent visit to seldom-touristed Limburg province in Belgium. Although low on must-see attractions, it was a pleasure to discover that quaint village life still exists for its own sake, not as a show for camera-toting travelers. Buried between the towns of Hasselt and Genk is the delightful Provincaal Domein van Bokrijk, one of the more impressive outdoor folk museums of Europe. You won't see or hear a word of English, but the park is so interesting, you won't care.
Tom <email>
Washington, DC USA 05/09/2007
Vilnius and Kosovo
I expected Vilnius to be little more than a drab ex-communistic block of crumbling concrete... instead, this clean, untouristed explosion of Baroque architecture completely surprised me.
Kosovo is somewhat interesting because it feels like history in reverse- many of the villages and towns have the atmosphere of a pre-idustrial 19th century Europe, while the 20th century communist-era factories rot away like ancient ruins.
Tom <email>
Washington, DC USA 04/21/2007
Macedonia
I too, Live in Skopje and Bitola, Macedonia.
I am an American, and I love it here, Bitola and Heraklea are a Must See as well! Heraklea is similar to Pompei, recently dug up. Bitola is the home of the most Gorgeous Women that are sought after by most European Men, real people, beautiful town with cozy Cafe's, and the nicest people I have ever met! One of them became my wife.
Marty Morawski <email>
Skopje, Macedonia 04/18/2007
Sicily - Palermo
We recently returned from a vacation in Sicily and Palermo is a real gem, with art and architecture reflecting the island's parade of occupiers. We stayed at a wonderful inexpensive bed and breakfast (L'Olivella Bed and Breakfast (39 3476240062). Its right next to the Archaeological museum and very near the Theater Massimo, with lots of nearby restaurants and night life. The owner's daughter speaks some English and made dessert cakes to go with our breakfast each morning.
Bill and Rosemary <email>
Springfield, VA USA 04/13/2007
Morocco
My husband and I have been to Europe several times and have visited all the "must-see" sights as well as sights off the beaten track. Next summer we will do a family trip with our 2 "grown" kids(their first time)-one would graduate from high school and the other from college. We will visit some "must-see" sights for their sake and want to venture out to others. Morocco is on my mind? i would welcome ANY tips about great experiences there as well as most economical way of getting there from Europe.
Judy L. <email>
Alameda, CA USA 04/08/2007
Need tips on Corsica for family w/toddler
Anyone been to Corsica lately? We'd like to rent an apartment or house for a week in an area with a good beach for a toddler (shallow water) that is not so touristy but does have cafes, shops nearby? Anyone have any recommendations?
Jilly
Seattle, USA 04/06/2007
Slovakia
If you have the time and are in the area for awhile, Slovakia is a must see. Much more mountains than the Czech Republic, the tourist industry is not that well developed but private apartments in people's houses are all over the place and not hard to find. Average price about ten dollars a night for two people, roughly. Good nature, enough old churches and castles as well, and a definite off the beaten track but perfectly safe place. CAVEAT-The one caveat is that especially in Eastern Slovakia there are many Gypsy/Roma villages where you don't want to be but they are obvious by their extreme poverty and unkempt appearance. Slovakians are friendly, nice, good people.
Jerry S
Prague, Czech Republic, cz 03/23/2007
Slovakia
I did a study abroad in Vienna back in 2000. We took several trips into Eastern Europe and one of the most memorable was deep into Slovakia. Bratislava is great but I was blown away by the Tatry Mountains on the Slovakian/Polish border. We stayed in Stary Smocovic (sp?) and went on a spectacular hike over the mountains into Poland. After the hike we enjoyed a big, delicious dinner for about $5 per person. I look back on that trip with very fond memories.
Dan <email>
Sterling, VA USA 03/09/2007
Macedonia
I am a American currently living in Macedonia and I have to say recommened that if you're a little adventurous and want to go somewhere truly undiscovered by western tourists, try Macedonia. It is home to the absolutely gorgeous lakeside city of Ochrid, and some of the most beautiful mountain lanscapes in Europe (all over the small country, but especially in resort towns like Mavravo). It is a completely safe place to travel and the people are famous for their hospitality and are fascinated by Americans. Also, people all over the country speak english (especially in the bigger cities). Another plus: the dollar is incerdibly strong here (a pizza big enough to feed two, for example, goes for $3-4). There are some incoveniences, such as irregular flights to Skopje (the capital) and Ochrid and rough train travel (but, the buses are very good). If you looking for a new backdoor, this may be your place...as, the country is on its way to EU membership, I don't think it will be a backdoor for long.
Simon Griffin
Simon
Sacramento, CA USA 02/28/2007
A Prague Labour of Love
This forum seems to have good tips so I would like to add one. I'm actually writing this without my husband's knowledge but, since he arrived to work in Prague in 1996 I've watched his passion for the city grow and grow to the point where he knows far more about it than your average Prague citizen. Our family has tried so many bars, restaurants, clubs, parks and museums as part of his "research" and I've lost count of the number of lost looking people that he has stopped on the street to give advice and directions. His website at www.livingprague.com is his own project which has consumed many hours of his spare time over the years. He's always saying "lets go try that new bar" or "there's a new vegetarian just opened" or as on last weekend it was "new playground opened in Kampa Park so we "must go back with the kids" etc and all of this goes into his webpage. I've often heard when he's found out how tourists are getting ripped off in one way or another and how he intends to warn people in advance on how to avoid these things or some of the emails he gets when a worried parent asks for something written in Czech that says her son is allergic to nuts or a thank you email from a couple who he helped after they had their car broken into at the zoo. I just hope that someone here takes the time to have a look at it and that more people benefit from having seen it. When we next get good weather here he already has a plan.....to leave us at home while he wanders around Prague taking photographs with his new camera...which go on the webpage. It is truly a labour of love and I hope he does not see this message.
Sona Jankova
prague, Czech Republic 02/14/2007
Prague Recommendation
Prague - January 2 to January 11 - 2007
Tour Guide Recommendation - Prague, January 2007.
For an informed and in-depth tour of Prague, please consider booking a day with Karolina Zadrazilova. Karolina is a native of Prague and was recommended to us by a friend who attended a tour of Prague in Summer of 2006. We hired her for a day-long tour to the town of Kutna Hora. Karolina speaks fluent English and is a licensed Tour Guide. (A crucial credential) She is an official tourist-guide accredited by the Prague Information Service (PIS). Her licenses are for guiding around the whole of the Czech Republic as well as special licenses for Prague, Prague Castle and the Jewish Quarter (the Josefov) in Prague. The day of our tour was the only day we didn’t spend in Prague. Kunta Hora is about 2 hours from Prague... during the drive we were able to experience the beauty of the Czech countryside as well as have great conversations about current events in the Czech Republic. (To get more familiar with the CR and it’s current events, before our trip, we would listen to the english broadcast from Radio Prague on web, http://www.radio.cz/en/) If you are looking for a private tour, or one for your group - give Karolina a call or email.... 00420 604 90 30 99. -- z.karolina@seznam.cz. Although we didn’t have the need to use Karolina’s other services (she is also able to book and cultural tickets, hotels, and other trips outside of the city) ...If our experience is any indication, you would be in good hands. As for our tour, we negotiated an hourly rate, and if you are traveling outside of Prague, like we did, the car + driver are extra. The rate for both included admission to the attractions and all the car expenses. Our tour greatly enriched the rest of out trip!
Kevin Gora
Somerville, NJ USA 01/29/2007
Crotia
Has anyone been to Croatia recently? We will be going in May and would like to hear your experiences,suggestions and warnings.
Jaye <email>
Victoria, B.C. Canada 01/26/2007
Czech Republic
My husband and I spent 12 perfect days traveling around the Czech Republic in mid-October. We rented a car which gave us access to some very remote communities. The laptop with GPS mapping saved our marriage as well as lots of time as we didn't drive in circles quite as much as we would have without it. I found a wonderful apartment in Prague through craigslist.com. The apt. is located in a neighborhood with lots of restaurants and local flavor and is just a 15 minute walk to Old Town Square or a few blocks off the tram. The apt. is newly renovated with IKEA furnishings and includes a washing machine and fully equipped kitchen. The owner was working on installing free internet. The Australian ex-pat owner is extremely friendly and helpful. He even used personal connections to book a room for us near the airport at a significantly reduced rate on our last night in the Czech Republic. The apt. can be rented through Daily Rentals Prague, Peter.Daly@BakerNet.com. The owner suggested we visit Karlovy Vary as he said it is one of his favorite Czech towns. It was fabulous! It is a spa town that looks like it is right out of a fairy tale. In Karlovy Vary we stayed at A. Dalia - a lovely 5-room pensionne with a host who speaks wonderful English. A. Dalia may be contacted through a.dalia@sendme.cz.
Elaine Breck <email>
Byron, IL USA 11/29/2006
Stockholm
Stockholm is simply amazing, a great, friendly, clean, picturesque city. Everyone was super nice, there are some awesome restaurants and Gamla Stan is priceless. I went over Labor Day weekend and the weather was perfect. I know Sweden is not the first place people think of visiting but Stockholm is a true hidden gem and I recommend it to everyone.
Yuji Banno <email>
New York, NY USA 11/17/2006
Excellent Romania Private Tour Guide
My mother and I have been planning a trip to Romania for over two years now and finally managed to take it in August of 2006.
In Romania, our tour was fully organized by Andrei Nicolau Miclea - a freelance tour guide and tour leader. He has over 17 years of expertise in private tours for Americans and offeres great quality.
He came recommended by the Romanian Tourist Board in New York as well as by a great number of Americans that have formerly travelled with him and were very pleased with his services.
His tours are all tailor made and include centrally located three and four star hotels, meals, admissions, a vehicle for the entire distance, fuel and of course his high standard services of guiding and driving.
The itinerary had a number of very speacial features which we would refer to as cultural connections and this is what they indeed are. Meeting with local artists, including local menus, exclusive visits to off the beaten track sites, exclusively organized folklore show (even though there were only two tourists!), some morning walking city tours, crafts demonstrations all combined with the great personality and knowledge Andrei has, all contributed to the success of our Romanian expedition. Andrei's tours are a window into the Romanian Culture.
He also has connections in the surrounding countries such as the Republic of Moldova, Hungary and Bulgaria. We highly recommend him and thank to all that recommended him to us. Please feel free to contact us anytime for information on our trip.
Tara Sonja Jones
Tara Sonja Jones <email>
Chicago, IL USA 11/11/2006
Vasteras, Sweden
I visited Vasteras, Sweden for Christmas, 2004. The people were amazingly friendly (I had a girl approach me in a nightclub because she had seen me on the bus a few days earlier and wanted to know why a foreigner was in town!) but the weather was horrible and there was nothing to do. Think twice before you go that far north during the winter months- you may be surprised by how depressed you feel.
Carly
Canada 11/10/2006
Some of Eastern Europe
May 2006 I traveled to Greece, Serbia, Romania, Hungary, Austria, and Czech Republic. Serbia is going through lots of changes as they move further from their old communist government. They have lots of cafes and clubs in Belgrade. The most popular cafes and clubs are on the river Danube. Romania was in the process of changing their money to a new currency which made dealing with money difficult. Budapest, Hungary is a beautiful city with great views because of the hilly landscape & river.
Penny
Ohio USA 11/04/2006
Azore Islands
Six years ago I took my first trip to the Azores, specificaly Flores Island.
I have returned every year. I now have a new home on the ocean and watch Europe's last sunset from the patio on my summer trips. I know almost everyone in the village, and they know me. I now speak Portuguese. I guess I am not a traveler, I am a settler. Come to Flores, it is a magical island. Write me and perhaps you can stay at my house for a spell and unwind.. The only problem with Flores is that mainland Europe is sending so much money, and regulations, that soon
we will be forced into the 21st century. Lajes das Flores, Europe's westermost county..
Ken <email>
San Diego, CA USA 10/31/2006
Zee Am See
We will visit Austria in November and want to know if its worth while to visit Zee Am See.
Jim <email>
Charlotte, North USA 08/20/2006
Germany
We made a tour of Luther's Germany. All the sites we wanted to see were easy to reach by train so we used a Deutsch Bahn pass. From Berlin we went to Wittenberg and stayed in a nice little place near the train station called Hotel Acron. It was an easy city to explore. Of great interest was the Castle Church where Luther preached and now is buried. We went to Eisleben where we saw his geburthaus and the place where he died. In Eisenach we explored Wartburg Castle where he translated the New Testament into what is now considered the modern day German language. We also visited Erfurt staying at Pension Reuss, and saw the Augistiner Kloster where Luther had been a monk. The German people were very friendly and accomodating.
Ron Allie <email>
Edmond, Oklaho USA 08/07/2006
Exeter, England
Last year, I had never even heard of Exeter, England (a city about 3 hours southwest of London). Then, several months ago, we had the pleasure of moving here! I am amazed that it isn't a city of choice for many travelers--especially Roman History buffs! The city was settled in 55AD and though it suffered extensive damage from the Blitz, 72% of the city wall still exists! The city is absolutely amazing. What's more, there are 3 city tours each day (total of about 15 during the week!) sponsored by the city council's "Red Coat Tours" to help unlock the mysteries of the city and take you behind locked doors that only they can take you through. Oh yeah, did I mention these 1 1/2 hour walking tours are FREE!! And I don't mean they linger around with their hand open expecting a tip! Everything is so concise and layed out if you take advantage of seeing the city with these volunteer tour guides. --**Note to Rick, has your staff investigated Exeter for a future show? 'better get 'em started!
Gail <email>
Exeter by way of America!, USA 08/02/2006
Morocco
I visited Morocco with a friend (also female) in 2003. We felt incredibly safe in Morocco. The people could not have been nicer. There was not a culture shock in a negative sense due to friendly people - just lots of fun, new experiences. One tip though - we hired a professional guide (not someone we just picked up in the souk) in Marrakesh to show us around the souks/town, and that worked out very well. He ended up then arranging for a car and driver to drive us on a three day trip from Marrakesh to Erfoud to Meknes. The total fee w/tip was about $200, and our driver took us to some amazing places. We worked with him ahead of time on some stops we wanted to make on the road, and he took us to a few of his own stops. LOVED Marrakesh, my friend loved Essouira (we separated and she visited on daytrip), highly recommend going to Erfoud and arranging a camel trek & overnight in Sahara desert - this is one of the most unique things I've ever done, a life highlight. Meknes was actually the only place we felt unsafe. Recommend visiting the ruins, then heading out. Morocco is an amazing country with so much culture to enjoy while still being a country that is relatively easy for tourists. Have fun!
Stephanie Straub
Key West, FL USA 05/30/2006
Denmark
I went to Denmark for the first time in March and fell in love with it. It is probably my favorite European country now. The Danes are wonderful people and the country is so clean and neat! I'm not vegetarian but I eat very little meat and had no problem with the food. I think you will find many options as long as you aren't a vegan, then it may be a little more difficult to find food with no animal products at all. You can find almost anything in Copenhagen though.
Sandy
USA 05/12/2006
Denmark
Denmark is an absolute joy. Most locals speak English and are very helpful. Roskilde is a 15-minute train ride from Copenhagen. I spent last summer in Denmark. Feel free to e-mail me!
Glenn <email>
Seattle, WA USA 05/03/2006
is denmark considered fringe? :)
we haven't actually been yet and i don't know where else to post this soooo i was just curious to hear other people's stories of going to denmark. we are going to the roskilde festival at the end of june for camping and then copenhagen for a couple days. i'm a little intimidated by the language difference and concerned about the seeming lack of vegetarian cuisine. thanks! :)
mona
outside london, surrey USA 05/02/2006
Israel, Jordan and Egypt
I just returned from 6 months of working in Israel and traveling to just about every place possible in Israel and some major chunks of Egypt and Jordan.
99% of the unrest you see on the news happens in Gaza and you can't travel there anyway. Yes, things happened while I was there but no where near what you would think after watching the news.
The whole region is only just beginning to recover from 5 years of very few tourists and prices are just about like most places in Europe (where I normally live) as long as you avoid Easter/Passover season. Israel is pushing hard to get tourists there in 2006 and I expect prices to start rising over the next year or so.
I would strongly recommend travel to this region. It does require patience but it is amazing.
Chris R <email>
Sheridan, WY USA 04/21/2006
Morocco
My husband and I have decided that we are going to Morocco for 2 weeks in September 2006. Anyone been? Should we go on a tour or is it safe/easy to go on your own? We are thinking of doing something like Casablanca-Rabat-Meknes-Fes-Merzouga-Ouarzazate-Telouet-Marrakech-Essaouira(for some windsurfing). What can we expect for culture shock?
Carrie Luelling <email>
Vancouver, WA USA 03/29/2006
Where to Go on Vacation??
If your hubby is interested in WWII history, Normandy is a wonderful place to spend a week. You can easily rent a car and drive around. There is history in Caen, as well as a nice Holiday Inn with a good restaurant and Karoaoke, beautiful buidings. You can visit museums and the beaches where the US led its assault. You can visit the huge grave yard, where many of the fallen soldiers rest (a Roosevelt is buried there). There's Mont St. Michel, which is a beautiful church on what becomes an island during high tide. Also, there is Villedieu-les-Poêles, the town of copper pots. You can take a tour of the workshops to see how they used to make bells and still today make pots. You can purchase beautiful dimpled copper pots there. There are lots of things to see in Normandy and Brittany. I'd be happy to share info on some of the places where we stayed when there. It was the best family vacation that we've had (with 2 kids, aged 6 and 3 at the time). Paris is OK to see once, but in my opinion, there are so many other more valuable historical sites to see in France. Get off the beaten path and enjoy!!!
Melissa <email>
Peach Bottom, PA USA 03/19/2006
Where to go on vacation?
My husband and I have 7-10 days for vacation this year. We live in Portland, OR and have only been to Italy and Germany. I don't want to go someplace TOO big--we like to get the know the people, but my husband wants all the history and archeology like Italy (pompeii, florence). Where should we go? Croatia looks good, but is there much history to see? Bulgaria looks fun, anyone been there? Is 7-10 days long enough to see much in Turkey or Egypt? If not, we could go another year when we have a full 2-3 weeks. Or should we stick to a city--like Prague? My husband and I are adventurous and want to go someplace less 'american'. Germany was kind of a dissapointment for us.
Carrie Luelling <email>
Portland, OR USA 03/18/2006
Real Fringe - Egypt...again
3rd visit in as many years - Egypt is still the best to visit in our opinions.
LUXOR - ballooning over the West Bank is magic. Visited Dendara north of Luxor which was amazing as well as visiting Karnak. In Thebes - focus on the valley of the nobles, the kings (skip King Tut), mednat habu, and Deir al Medina. The Winter Palace is great but stay in the Old Wing. Also Luxor Airport is brand new and great - 10 minutes from curb to gate :)
Cairo - watch those sandstorms. The Nile Hilton is wonderful- besides visiting Giza spend time at Saqarra. The Musuem thins out in the afternoon. The Coptic quarter is quiet and peaceful and the Medievel quarter is not but still fun
Enjoy...and yes it is VERY SAFE. They are also the nicest we have ever met in 30 countries to children.
Prices are creeping up so go now - Mexico is cheaper now than Egypt.
Marc <email>
Jersey City, NJ USA 03/12/2006
Ukraine by surprise
We spent three weeks in Ukraine last fall. It was surprisingly interesting. We went on business and did not expect Kiev to be such a pleasant city, its people are so friendly, we had a great time. The small towns that we visited were not really touristy but the capital is definetely worth a side trip if you're around Eastern Europe.
Ana
CT USA 01/02/2006
Great Tour Guide In Romania!
I found getting a referral on tour guides for Romania wasn't easy. I checked several differenct sources and finally was able to narrow the search down to Liviu Tudor (Romanian Tourist Office referral in New York). Liviu, a retired engineer, was incredible as he met my group at the train station in Brasov at 6:11 a.m. on a Sunday morning to begin our 3-day tour of Transylvania. My group of 28 adults were very pleased with Liviu as he guided us through Dracula's Castle in Bran and took us to a place in Sibiel to have "Dinner with the Peasants" at Reghina Popa's. He also showed us many places that tourists normally don't get to see such as a visit to a Romanian Orthodox Church in Brasov to meet with the head curator of priceless Romanian documents (i.e., 1st Russian Bible was printed there). Romania, I feel, still hasn't been discovered by American tourists, but I would not hesistate to visit this beautiful country again. Sibiu, Sibiel, Brasov, Sinaia, Sighisoara, are some of my favor cities and towns in Romania. (Sighisoara reminds me so much of Rothenburg, Germany.) Get to Romania before it is truly discovered and the crowds follow.
Peter Tadin <email>
Austin, Texas USA 12/01/2005
Beautiful Sarajevo !
I've been in Slovenija, Croatia, Serbia, and Bosnia Herzegovina, and SARAJEVO was definitely one of the best places i remember from that trip.
You can see my photos about balkans here :
www.mondophoto.net
Marc Bosman
New York, NY USA 11/16/2005
Bosnia & Herzegovina
I just returned from a trip to Turkey and the Balkans...and of the places that are sort of on the "fringe", I highly recommend Bosnia & Herzegovina. Mostar is an especially scenic town to visit--the famous Mostar Bridge has been rebuilt (though some buildings--mainly in the parts of town away from the bridge--still are heavily damaged from the war). Sarajevo has been well restored since the war too (note that many buildings in both Mostar and Sarajevo made it through the war too). There are beautiful mountains (though stay on established trails for now; but except for the landmine threat, the country is EXTREMELY safe)--and some had autumn foliage when I was there earlier this month (yet there's a very small section of Adriatic coastline where the tropical bougainvillea vine produces autumn color--in the form of its flowers). Of course, it's fascinating seeing the diverse cultures in this country (sometimes just a few meters apart with the juxtaposition of mosques and cathedrals in the cities). Note that if you're driving, signs are a bit sparse (and in the Srbska section--mainly in north and east parts of the country, the signs are in Cyrillic--but an hour or two of self-study of the Cyrillic script will help immensely) and police are strict with speed limits in towns (but this isn't a country to speed through anyway--both because of the scenery and the very curvy roads). I think Bosnia & Herzegovina is the next "Croatia"--the next Balkan nation to see a rapid surge in tourism--I say go there before it gets crowded!
Neighboring Serbia & Montenegro (especially Montenegro) look poised to gain more tourism too and have some of the friendliest people in Europe (as does Bulgaria, though that's definitely not "fringe" Europe).
I also did a day trip into Albania--must say they'll probably be "fringe" Europe for awhile (they still have frequent power cuts there, for one thing).
Brandt
San Diego, CA USA 10/17/2005
Ukraine
I'm 13 year old and I just came back from Ukraine with my parents. I loved it. I love traveling in general,(I'm 13 and I've already been to 15 countries, 10 off them overseas.) but Ukraine was somthing special. It seems that the majority of Kiev is parkland. It's cheap($.60 cents for a hamburger). If you rent an apartment you could pay $40-$50 for a night. Yalta is like any western resort town plus a little history. Odesa is a place where you could sit down at a cafe and people watch for hours. Kiev has a potential to be a city like Paris, with St. Andrews Church, the Cave Monastries, the Kreshatyk, the Hydropark which in fact had beaches on the Dniper River years before Paris even thought of the idea. Ukraine is a great place to travel with children or without, so get to this unknown destination before it gets westernized. Oh yeah, bring toliet paper too.
Eric <email>
Chicago, IL USA 09/12/2005
Graffiti Romania
If someone want to see some Impressions from Romania check these Link and you can download a Videoclip is called Graffiti Romania !
If you follow the Link you must choose DOWNLOADTYP " FREE " ! on the first Page - than on the next opened Page scroll down and wait till the seconds are over and you can Download the clip with the right Mousebuttom !
http://rapidshare.de/files/3385687/Romania-Graffiti.wmv.html
Greetings to all
Graffiti Romania <email>
Cologne, Germany 08/11/2005
Speaking of Moldova
Moldova now has a no-cost visa for tourists during early October each year. That's because of their wine festival--they want to attract more tourists that way. In 2005, the free visa period runs from Oct 1-15--very convenient for me as I plan to visit Moldova for a couple days then (as a little side-shoot of a Turkey/Balkans trip).
Here's where to go for more info:
http://www.turism.md/eng/section/371/
So...if one has a desire to visit this "off-the-beaten-path" country, that's a good time to do it (and, maybe by then, they'll be a bit of autumn foliage too). (The only concern might be if this is too much of a success and hotels become full...I'll report back then if that's the case!)
Brandt
San Diego, CA USA 07/17/2005
Moldova
I have spent the last year living and working in Romania. On a lark, my friend and I, with a 6'2" blond blue-eyed American we picked up in Suceava, decided to head to Chisinau, the capital of Moldova.
Most people can't even find Moldova on a map. The country only has about 20,000 visitors a year.
We took the train to Iasi and were approched by a man offering to drive us to Chisinau for about 9 euros. We drove to the border where we bought our visas for $45 US. Then we drove to Chisinau where we were left in the middle of the wild central market.
Chisinau is beautiful and we felt very safe. While I speak Romanian and my friend speaks Russian, many people speak English and with a sense of humour, we could always make ourselves understood.
The food is much better than in Romania and the prices almost as cheap.
In a way, navigating Moldova is easier than in western Europe. If you want to go somewhere, you go to a bus station and find a minibus heading to your destination. No time tables. The bus leaves when its full and another one comes to take its place.
We went to see a 13th century monastry cut into a cliff, but the highlight was travelling to Tiraspol, the capital of Transdniestr, a country that doesn't exist. It claimed independence from Moldova in 1992, has its own military, stamps, cellphone network and currency. It was like being in the USSR all over again.
If you want to go someplace green, friendly and definitely off the beaten path, try Moldova. Wine lovers should especially consider the underground wine cities, with streets called "Merlot Avenue" and "Cabernet Sauvignon Drive".
Karla <email>
Timisoara, Romania 05/08/2005
Serbia
Having family there, I've visited Serbia twice in the last 4 years. In fact, I'm going back this summer to a language shcool in Valjevo, a city located about 100 km west of the capitol, Beograd. Three weeks of classes, room and board, and cultural activities are costing me only $500 euros.
Despite being bombed by U.S. Air Force planes (doing duty for the U.N.) in the recent war, the people were as nice as they could be when they learned everybody in my tour group were Americans. We stopped along the road at a small, water-powered mill still being used to grind wheat. It was closed, so we went across the street to ask at the house if the miller was expected soon. He wasn't, but the man of the house ran out almost immediately carrying a tray with a bottle of plum brandy and tiny glasses, to welcome us.
Food and lodging is very cheap, many folks speak a little English, the countryside is beautiful, the monasteries are wonderful. It's not easy to travel without a tour, but tours are available. I'll recommend mine if you e-mail me. Due to the U.N. sanctions, the economy is stagnant but it means that a lot of people still live on farms or have strong attachments to the countryside, which is nice for a city girl like me.
Jane Reed <email>
Los Angeles, CA USA 05/02/2005
Israel & Jordan
Just returned from 2 weeks in Israel and several days in Jordan. March 25 - April 12th. Absolutely lovely and I hope to return again asap. 3 of us went, had a private guide for most bits except Jerusalem/Bethlehem/HebronJerusalem--Stayed 6 Nights, Christ Church Guesthouse just inside Jaffa Gate. Primo location for all Old City sites, and not a long walk into the new city restaurants etc. Friendly staff, good breakfast, lunches and dinners. Loved all the sites and lines were way down. Easter at the Holy Sepulchre, things were busy with groups but still not too bad...When I was there you could walk on the Temple Mount but you could not enter the Al-Aqsa Mosque or Dome of the Rock. Bethlehem is fairly empty of Tourists as well. Wonderful experience; Although we had to walk across the checkpoint and get into a different taxi into the town.
Also saw Hebron which was eye-opening. Lots of Security at Mechpelah but all people very friendly.Dead Sea was wonderful, not too crowded, already hot weather! En route hit Qumran, Ein Gedi Nature Reserve and Masada-- Stayed in Ein Bokek.
Up the Coast saw Caesarea, Megiddo, Nazareth, stayed in Caesarea...Amazing! Then it was onto Carmel, Haifa, Akko...then into Galilee staying in Tiberias right on the waters of Galilee! Went to Tabghe, Capernaum, Golan Heights, Banias, Mt of Beatitudes, Korazim, Yardenit, staying again in Tiberias.
Crossed into Jordan via the Bet Shean Jordan River Crossing took 15 minutes tops. Went into Jerash (amazing, would not want to miss Jerash) and into Amman, staying one night in Amman. Then South we hit Mt Nebo, Madaba, Kings Highway sites (like the black iris), Kerak and a few views over Wadi Mujib and Wadi Hasa finally arriving to Petra. Stayed at the Crowne Plaza literally steps from the entrance. Everyone has heard about Petra but enough can't be said about how wonderful this place is! Also took a side trip down to Wadi Rum and Aqaba for lunch. Stayed in Petra 3 nights.Crossing back to Israel via the Allenby Bridge--would not recommend. Took 3.5 hours due to interrogations since no israeli's can use this crossing. Absolutely horrible efficiency here. Would probably have used he southern crossing if we had stayed in Aqaba.
Went back through to Tel-Aviv/Jaffa...absolutely loved it wish we had more time.
I found it a very safe country to travel through, with lovely people and some of the greatest sites in the world. Only thing we missed this trip that was a major thing we wanted to see was Jericho--just didnt have enough time!If you are curious about going to Israel or Jordan feel free to email me.
Matthew, Classics Major, University of St Andrews <email>
St Andrews UK and Boise, ID USA 04/17/2005
Andalusia
The Sierra Nevada is for serious walkers. We toured by car as I packed everything except the kitchen sink. The villages in the Alpujarras are small and farflung so most accommodation should be booked in advance to make sure of a bed. Hostal Las Perdices in Valor had only 8 rooms,but charged less than 30 euros [August 2003] for a clean double room with own bathroom. You were allowed use of their swimming pool 100 yards [uphill] where they also rent apartments.In August 2002 we turned up without a reservation and they had room available for a night. Just outside is a water trough where a farmer waters his mule on their way home in the evening after toiling in the fields.Trevelez is the village where jamon serrano is cured and is more touristy. The plaza at the bottom of the village has tourist shops selling souvenirs, serrano ham, and lots of whole hams , and restaurants offering "plato Alpujarreno" which is the local dish of ham,chorizo sausage,egg,black pudding and chips.At the top of the village[barrio alto] the streets are so narrow that cars park in a very congested little square and you must get out and walk onwards and upwards.My husband looked more than a trifle mutinous when he realised he had to get the luggage up the sloping streets on foot to the hotel. In the evenings the mules come down from the hillside with their owners, clip clopping home, usually followed by a dog , over the cobblestones. A friendly smile and "Buenas tardes" will bring a smile in return.Some houses still have chickens in pens beneath them.
There is a rough road ,now a track, from Capileira and Bubion over the mountaintop to Granada city and the Alhambra , but motorcars are no longer permitted. The long way round the Sierra is via the Puerta de la Ragua, a pass which leads to La Calahorra where there is a castle [allegedly one of the locations for "EL Cid"]and there is accommodation in the village. One building houses a 2 star pension, and a new 4 star hotel [jacuzzi etc]which share the bar, a nice restaurant and reception! We had booked into the pension and were very confused on arrival,wondering if we were even in the right village or if the pension had been demolished and rebuilt. We passed what seemed to be a deserted silver mining village before coming to Purullena and Guadix where accommodation can be had in cave hotels. The urbanisation of Granada city was a change and quite a shock from the rurality of the province and we decided not to wait for the 3 hours until the next available tickets to visit the Alhambra. Another day will do. It will still be here when the elderly farmer and his panniers on his mule followed by his dog,or the goatherd on foot and staff in hand, with his dogs and huge flock of goats obliging us to stop while they scurry across the road bells jangling from their necks are no longer a sight to be seen.
Suzette
London, UK 03/31/2005
To Peter from Amsterdam
Peter, when you live in Europe it is easy to get to Madeira. There are charter flights (package tours) from just about every country, and they are usually way cheaper than booking everything yourself. Usually you can also book "flights only" if you want a different hotel from tour company?s selection. You don?t have to use their tours, you can just use flights+airport transportation+hotel. Or just flights.To Azores there are charter trips at least from Scandinavian countries. Again way cheaper and faster than going individually. You could just take a train from Amsterdam to Copenhagen and go from there.
EP
EU 03/15/2005
Bratislava
My husband and I took a two week vacation to Eastern Europe, including Budapest and Prauge. However, the best town was Bratislava - the capital of Slovakia. It was small (two nights is enough) convienent, cheap, and relatively tourist free. We had wonderful food, including boar, venison and rabbit, never spending more than $20 a person, including alcohol! There is a resturant in the old town named "The Pumpkin". Eating there should be a requirement and they do have vegetarian food - a relatively new concept in Eastern Europe.We stayed on a "botel", a former cruise ship located on the Danube River. There are three such botels, all located within a ten minute walk of downtown. The Marina is by far the best and includes breakfast. The city has a definite Eastern feel, and it is still clearly recovering from Communism. However, there are wonderful castles, museums and an opera house which harken to many to recall a favorite Western city.Take time to wander. We got "horribly" lost on our first day and stumbled upon the most gorgeous blue Catholic Church, that tried as we might the next day, could not locate it. There isn't a lot of English spoken here, but you won't have any trouble getting what you want. The dollar has a powerful draw for this struggling country. We purchased all of gifts here because it was much cheaper than Budapest and Prauge, but the quality of their linens, pottery and wood crafts was just as fantastic. I wholly recommend this city and hope to see Steve include it in an updated Eastern Europe book.
Patty McLane <email>
Gaithersburg, MD USA 03/14/2005
Madeira
I wasn't sure whether Madeira qualifies as a "fringe" destination -- it's part of Portugal, after all -- but since the Azores are mentioned above, here goes.Well, Madeira is wonderful! I spent a few days there late last month. It's not exactly a beach destination, but that means much less Euro-style mass tourism (as opposed to the nearby Canary Islands) -- most visitors are middle-aged and older couples from the UK and Germany. The main island is incredibly rugged, and is criss-crossed with hiking trails. The scenery is somewhat reminiscent of Kauai, but with semi-tropical rather than tropical vegetation. And it's not particularly expensive, either; I stayed in a cliffside room with a stupendous view and a private balcony for only 85 euros a night (this was in February, though). The food is excellent, fresh, and cheap. Getting there is the hard part, but even this is becoming easier, now that a couple of low-cost European airlines (such as Air Berlin) fly there. From the northeastern US, there are direct flights to the Azores, from where you can also fly to Madeira. For anyone spending a month or two in Europe, Madeira would be a great place to take 'a vacation from your vacation.' Highly recommended.
Peter
Amsterdam, NL 03/12/2005
Reykjavik
Here's a personal account (with lots of travel tips) of a trip to Reykjavik:http://thisisreallyhappening.typepad.com
Joe <email>
USA 03/10/2005