Savory Spain & Portugal
When you take your tongue out sightseeing in Spain and Portugal, what are its favorite taste treats?
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Tapas in Toledo
Lizarran at 3 Calle Toledode Ohio, just up Calle Comercio from Plaza de Zocodover has fabulous tapas at bargain prices. My wife and I hade three large tapas and three glasses of wine each for less than 18 Euros total at lunch time. This is a chain but the couple that run this one do an outstanding job in both the food and service. They speak no English but make a polite and considerate effort to communicate.
Peter Pappas
Groton, CT USA 01/16/2012
Excellent lunch in Porto
We took a chance on a back street restaurant in Porto (just up from the long line of restaurants along the river towards the bridge in the Ribeira). Postigo do Carvao, Rua da Fonte Taurina, was inexpensive and delicious.
www.postigodocarvao.webs.com
Richardson
Victoria, BC Canada 01/02/2012
Cafeterea Cason Lopez de Toledo
NO WAY, JOSE. Rick and company really need to fix this recommendation right away. Whiclle I know it is difficult to stay up to date on so many details in a travel book, this one is way off base, except for the location. While touted as good cheap food from the same kitchen as the fancy restaurant above it, we found a cramped very busy place with a menu consisting of grilled hamburger, some kind of chicken,etc. There was nothing at all resembling the menu in the place above. Besides, this is an out of the way place that took some searching to find.
Joe W.
Austin, TX USA 12/24/2011
Beverage Rip-off
Beware the Arc de Triomf Wok Japanese Restaurant (buffet) in Barcelona. I tried to use one of Rick's travel tips and asked for tap water. The waitress would not give us tap water and insisted that we had to purchase an expensive bottle of water, although there was no sign stating that one must purchase a beverage with a meal. I again insisted on tap water. The waitress again refused, and then called over two more waitresses to our table to lecture me about how we had to buy beverages. I refused, and when they would not serve me tap water, I went into the bathroom and filled my water bottle that I was carrying from the sink and used it to fill our glasses. Then they really had a hissy-fit. In the end, they did not charge us for beverages since we did not purchase any, but they glared at us the entire time we were in the restaurant. I must say the food was very good, but the denial of tap water and the rude insistence that we must buy beverages put us off the meal somewhat. Never again at that restaurant!
Shelley
Salt Lake City, UT USA 10/21/2011
Coffee and pastries, wonderful breads
During our visit to Madrid in April, we found the BEST bakery/cafe ever!!! Cosmen & Keiless Panaderia Pasteleria at Leon, 10, was our first destination every morning, for two delicious cafes con leche and a scrumptious "caracol" pastry. It was a 5-minute walk from our hotel on the Plaza Santa Ana. My mouth still waters when I think of our morning repasts there.
Chris Ryland
Courtenay, BC Canada 08/02/2011
Botin de Sobrino
Botin de Sobrino Near Plaza Mayor and the old Market, this is the oldest restaurant in the world but the food is the best, try the cochinillo specialty of the house finger licking good!
Frances Rivera
Grand Prairie, TX USA 07/26/2011
Free food in Lisbon? Free food anywhere?
To the person who expected to eat amazing olives, fresh bread ham and cheese in Portugal- really?!? You didn't expect to pay for those items?
Michael
Toronto, On Canada 07/01/2011
Veggie Eats
We have just returned from 5 weeks in Spain, had trouble finding good vegetarian food at times, but enjoyed Rick's recommended Juicy Jones in Barcelona, and Fres Co in Granada and Madrid. We had a great veg Indian meal in Madrid in the Lavapies area just south of Puerto del Sol. A real find was the Di Raffaello Trattoria Pizzeria in Cordoba, at C/Deanes, 5, in the Jewish Quarter, not far from the Mezquita. It had several great vegetarian selections, and if we were carnivores we might have enjoyed one of several Italo-Hispano fusion dishes using typically Spanish ingredients such as, of course, jamon.
Jill
Surrey, BC Canada 06/21/2011
restaurant in Lisbon
We discovered a good, moderate restaurant in the Alfama section of Lisbon: Frei Papinhas, Rua de S. Tome. It attracted us because of the numbers of Portuguese people at lunch. Nothing fancy but the grilled sardines and fish rice were very tasty for modest prices, with friendly competent service.
Bonnie Steinbock
Albany, NY USA 06/16/2011
Great, cheap restaurant in Toledo
The lunch "Menu of the Day" at the Restaurant "La Custodia" at Plaza Pozo Amargo was only 10 or 12 euros per person but had big portions and fairly tasty food. Even though it was around 3 pm, we were one of two groups there, so it was quiet. The menu came with bread (fresh out of the oven!) and a big bottle of wine, along with dessert. The staff was really friendly and appreciated the fact that we tried to tell them how great they were in broken Spanish!
Haley
Youngstown, Ohio USA 06/14/2011
Great casual restaurant in Barcelona
A Barcelona taxi driver recommended 'CASA MARI Y RUFO' @ c/freixures, ll. near the old cathedral. A tiny family restaurant with superb food, reasonable prices, and hilarious dinner theatre provided by the members of the family yelling back and forth at each other nonstop. "Pablo! Pablo!"
Arthur Castagno
edmonds, wa USA 04/02/2011
Great casual restaurant in Barcelona
A Barcelona taxi driver recommended 'CASA MARI Y RUFO' @ c/freixures, ll. near the old cathedral. A tiny family restaurant with superb food, reasonable prices, and hilarious dinner theatre provided by the members of the family yelling back and forth at each other nonstop. "Pablo! Pablo!"
Arthur Castagno
edmonds, wa USA 04/02/2011
Barcelona, Cordoba, Toledo
Just back from Spain with a few recommendations:
1. In Barcelona, Petit Xaica on Jovellanos. Tiny gem with great food, excellent service, good value, and wonderful decor. Walls are covered with more than 30 faded Norman Rockwell prints left by a former owner decades ago. The Xaica next door shares the kitchen but not the decor and service.
2. In Cordoba near the Cathedral, the Bogegas Mezquita serves reasonably priced and imaginative tapas.
3. In Toledo, the Adolfo wine bar near the Cathedral (not the upscale restaurant we did not try) has good tapas and very friendly service.
Kay Mussell
Washington, DC USA 02/12/2011
Barcelona - LaRita & Restaurant Elisabets
We walked out of Rick's recommended Restaurant Elisabets near the Ramblas. The waitress threw the menu at me and walked off after I asked a simple, non-offensive in any culture, question in Spanish. Maybe she was just having a bad day but I did not want to spend my money there.
We LOVED LaRita and what a bargain! Ate there twice for lunch enjoying the menu of the day for less the 9 Euro, including wine. Delicious food, great service and a beautiful atmosphere. The line was very long both days but moved quickly.
Dawnell
Germantown, TN USA 02/06/2011
Eating in lisbon
Ditto on zuzabed in Lisbon. Luis is great and you can eat well without leaving the stairway outside his door. Especially good is the south American cafe just above the b&b.
Mike hartigan
Leland, Mi USA 01/09/2011
Shady restaurant practices
Just wanted to "warn" other travelers about a semi rip-off we experienced in a restaurant in Lisbon. As soon as we sat down, they brought us bread, olives, and two types of cheeses. When we received our bill at the end of the dinner, these cost 2.50, 2.0, 2.50, and 3.50 (respectively), for a total of 10.50 euros. We never asked for it. During the meal, I noticed all other tables had olive oil and vinegar, so I asked for a set for our table. They were 1 euro each on our bill. Pretty shady scheme for taking money from us.
Restaurant Tasquinha (near the Castle)
Lisbon, Portugal 12/30/2010
San Sebastian Restaurant Find
Our best foodie find in Spain was the small yet sophisticated restauarant named la fabrica. It is located at 17 Calle Puerto in the old quarter of town. The food would compare favorably with five star restaurants in San Francisco yet was very inexpensive. Every plate was imaginative, delicious, and beautifully presented. We had the menu which included an appetizer, entree, dessert and wine for 23 euros at lunch or 35 euros at dinner. Unbelievable value for the money!
Jessica
Orinda, CA USA 11/02/2010
Restaurants In Barcelona
We had a very nice dinner at Taller de Tapas, different from what another writer experienced, and the food was excellent. Our best meal was at Alkimia, a Michelin one star, where we went for an extended lunch. The food was outstanding and extremely creative.
John Jacobson
Toledo, OH USA 10/27/2010
Tapas tour in San Sebastian with Gabriella Ranelli
We just returned from a month in Spain and Portugal. We followed Rick's recommendation for a local guide in San Sebastian--Gabriella Ranelli. She was not only a culinary expert taking us to most of the tapas bars in Rick's guide, but also knowledgeable about Basque history and the city of San Sebastian. The tour wasn't cheap (140 euros plus cost of food and wine for the three of us). It was a real culinary adventure. We tried the best of the best.
Sharon
Kanters, MN USA 10/13/2010
Sevilla, Spain
Very popular bar -hole in the wall style - morning to late at night - Bodegita Fabiola. Young crowd - flamenco guitar early evening. Right around the corner from Hotel Amadeus. Also nearby -food till late at night -on Santa Maria Blanca - called Levies Cafe and Taverna right at the Iglesia Del Senor San Jose. Tapas at a good price. Note: Bar El Tamboril was closed up tight and this was mid September. If you are driving into Sevilla be advised there are no street signs / building markings visible at the corners and no signs to Bario Santa Cruz for drivers. Innkeeper says everyone has trouble -also very seldom is a left turn allowed so get specific directions before you arrive.
R. Sheeley
Decorah, IA USA 09/10/2010
Great Food Throughout Spain
Recently returned from a 2 week visit to Spain, some places we really enjoyed:
Granada...Calle Navas,Nuevo Rest. Hermanos Urquiza (try the Berenjenas rellenas, fried eggplant with awsome molasses called miel de canas) and Jardines Alberto. El Ladrillo was also good and simple, if the local guy cranks the music ask the waiter and he'll turn it down. Rest. Sultan, great Moorish food, Calle Elvira.
Seville...Cafe Bar Carmela and El 3 de Oro for tapas and drinks, near the Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus which I highly recommend. All in Rick's book in the Barrio Sta. Cruz. Eating in the Triana Dist was disappointing the El Faro de Triana was other than the view, bad. Walking back to the Triana area, we found Bodequita A. Romero on Antonia Diaz just before Paseo de Cristobal Colon, highly recommended for lunch, dinner or tapas.
Bilbao...the most fun tapas crawl you could imagine, we stayed in the Casco Viejo at the Hotel Bilbao Jardines, the beds were like sleeping on a plank with sheets but, the tapas were fantastic on Calle Jardines and for a couple of blocks in each direction, if it's crowded, dive in!
San Sebastian...get to the Old Town, head towards the Cathedral and look around, like Bilbao, if it's crowded with locals, dive in.
Orio (about 10 km west of San Seb.), great little town with a very modern area near the beach, stayed in a 3 bed room apt, nice to have some modern conveniences. In Orio, Asador Xixario on Eusko Gudarien Kalea, 2. They work all day to get an oak coal grill hot, their menu is simple, fresh fish (Besugo) and Buey (they call it Ox but it's actually bone in Rib-Eye)they sell both by the kilo, you pick the fish that's ususally caught fresh that day and the steak and they cook them up for the table. We were there for the festival of San Pedro, everyone was in the town so we chose to eat outside to enjoy the fun. Most expensive meal we ate the whole time 190 euros for 6, it was also the best food, fresh matters. As you look out the door of the Rest., past their outdoor patio, across the street and just to the left is a great bar for tapas, can't remember the name but you have to step down into it directly from the very narrow street, great place to meet people, say hello (Epa! in Basque) to Rebecca at the bar. Learn a little Basque and you will get smiles almost every time even if you mis-pronounce it...Eskerrik asko is thank you (es-carry-costco, run together) I remembered by being escared of Costco. The Basque people were the most welcoming in all of Spain and that's saying a lot because I found most Spainards to be very warm.
Madrid...Casa Mingo on Paseo Florida, 34, food was outstanding try the Cabrales Cheese (a type of blue) and the chicken and sidra, simplicity at it's best. We got there a little early as Spain was playing Paraguay so the party started very late in a town that just gets started late. Worst tourist trap in Madrid is La Catedral on Carrera San Jeronimo, food was bad, service indifferent and prices high!
Too many very good red wines to name, if you like dry whites, I highly recommend the Verdejo grape from Rueda and one that I think stood out was Cuatro Rayas which I had first at Jardines Alberto in Granada. Wine is very cheap in spain with tapas 1.2 euros (smaller portion) with a meal 2.5 euros, ordering bottles is the cheapest way to buy most times.
Keith Jones
Lewisville, TX USA 07/25/2010
Torre del Oro, Plaza Mayor, Madrid
Yes, there is pricey warning in Rick's Spain 2010 Book. My advice - avoid this place at all costs. The biggest rip-off in Madrid. We didn't look at the menu (my mistake) and paid 18 euro for a portion of anchovies! Not worth looking at the bull bar.
Scott H
Riverview, FL USA 07/20/2010
Some Restaurant Tips
Barcelona
Taller de Tapas,at Carrer de l'Argenteria
In Rick's book - service was terrible, after eating out every night for 3 weeks in Spain, the only restaurant where waiter didn't pour wine for taste test. Just poured it in our glasses and left. Food was average. On the menu "Mixed fish plate" was only one type of fish. My recommendation - don't go there.
Sevilla We ate at Restaurante San Marco. Great atmosphere in unique setting. Moderately priced and the food is a cut above average. Definite recommendation for Sevilla.
Granada
Estrellas de San Nicolas was great! Hands down the best restaurant in Granada with a spectular view of sunset on Alhambra. It doesn't get much better than this. It's pricey, but this is it for the one-time big spurge. French cuisine with awesome presentation.
Scott H
Riverview, FL USA 07/20/2010
Lizzaran in Toledo
Look for Lizzaran in Toledo. It's north and west of Calle de Comercia a couple blocks southwest of Plaza de Zodocover. The owner (from New Jersey) and his Spanish wife work the kitchen and bar. GREAT tapas and wine!
BobAtTorrey
Sarasota, FL USA 07/10/2010
Barcelona/San Sebastian
Crema Canela near Las Ramblas and Placa Reial in Barcelona was wonderful and moderately priced. Gresca, Hisop, Embat were also terrific but more expensive.
In San Sebastian, Rekondo is a must for wine lovers. The list is 240 pages, the cellar is immense and the sommelier loves his job. The food is simple but perfectly executed. Jon at sansebastianfood.com can arrange tours of the cellar.
AA
Ft Myers, FL USA 07/09/2010
B&B in Lisbon
Best B&B in Lisbon??? Check out Zuzabed, right in the middle of the city and very close to the train station. The owner is wonderful and will make your stay unforgettable. Great views of the St. Jorge castle from his rooms.
phchunt
hewitt, tx USA 07/05/2010
Eats in Barcelona review
Ate at two restaurants in the Eixample area of Barcelona:
La Bodegueta - absolutely delicious and reasonable. Try the fried green peppers with sea salt and the slices of manchego cheese with a rose wine. A fantastic, friendly crew works there but do beware that despite a smoking ban, the rule is "relaxed" at this restaurant but worth putting up with.
Our 2nd restaurant we tried as Ciudad Condal Cerveceria. We must say, despite Rick's approval, we were disappointed with our experience. A few items we ordered were forgotten and we felt the staff was somewhat condescending towards the obvious "turistas" that came to eat. The beer selection was limited to your standard 13 international beers you can get in any bar back in the US. I guess perhaps we were expecting more variety of local beers with the name, 'Cerveceria".
Tom C
Boston, MA USA 05/30/2010
Excellent Catalan Restaurant in Barcelona
Just ate last night at an excellent Catalan restaurant in Barcelona in the square behind Santa Maria del Mar: Origens. website: www.lallavordelsorigens.com.
Absolutely delicious, very reasonably priced (entrees for 10euro). Local food. English menus. Friendly staff.
Superb!
Paul Chapman
SEATTLE, WA USA 05/12/2010
Best food
After a wonderful visit in April--even with the volcano, here are our picks:
Best restaurant in Barcelona:
for Dining: St. Remy near St Gervais & Mexican Consulate (fantastic mulberry sorbet dessert!);
Tapas: Cerverserria Catalunya near Ramblas Catalunya
Kate
Ellensburg, WA USA 05/04/2010
Insider Tip of the Day: Sangria
30 year Spain Resident offers to you a Foodie Tip of the Day :-> JUST SAY NO TO SANGRIA--- Spaniards almost never drink it. (we prefer good vino, cold beer or soda). I know it is so famous but truth is Sangria is a cheap high sugar beverage. It is a big tourist trap profit * mix cheap imitation fruit juice and bad wine + a bit of garnish if you are lucky....total cost maybe 89 cents but sold at 8 -12 euro a pop * So foodie friends, do like us locals and avoid sangria & avoid tourist traps of the world :-> For good wine at good price try: Somantano, Campo de Borja or El Toro regions in Spain.
happy travels always/ buen viaje siempre, Montserrat Torres http://www.magicalspain.com
Montserrat Torres
VALENCIA, SPAIN 03/09/2010
Dining in Spain
Just got back a week ago and here's my rundown on restaurant recommendations in Spain that we tried.
Madrid
Really great food at Artemisia II. It's vegetarian but quite tasty and very inexpensive especially for the 3-course fixed price lunch menu.
Avoid La Paella Real Restaurante. It's overpriced and a tourist trap. I've had better paella from a box.
Sevilla
It was Christmas Day, but Corral de Agua Restaurante did not offer a set price lunch as indicated in Rick's guidebook. Restaurante Modesto just down the street did offer one, and it was cheaper than indicated in the guidebook -- 15 Euros instead of 20.
Don't bother with Restaurante San Marco. While it's moderately priced, the food is mediocre. Furthermore, they tried to charge us for drinks that we did not have. I think this was due to an imcompetent waitperson, but if you go, be careful to check your bill to make sure it's accurate.
Granada
Estrellas de San Nicolas was great! It's pricey, but they do offer a 28 Euro 3-course dinner. They have a starter of fried eggplant sticks that you dip in honey that is to die for. Wine list is good. And the views of the Alhambra are fantastic. From what I hear from the locals, it's much better than Carmen M d M, which Rick recommends if you only have 1 night to dine in Granada.
David van der Griff
Sacramento, CA USA 01/09/2010