Hi Jackie, I wasn't the biggest fan of Venice either. I really tried to like it but it was really overwhelmed with tourists ( yes I acknowledge that I am one) that it just detracted from the experience. It got so bad that I started to take photos of the masses of people instead of the sites. In retrospect these were some of the more memorable photos that I took!

Posted by: Andy - Jul 22, 2008 10:21 AM

Wait til night time when Venice turns magical. The tourist hoards leave and you and Jules can wander the alleys cross the bridges and wait for gondolas and loving couples cruising by.

Posted by: JS - Jul 22, 2008 10:23 AM

I know how you feel!!! I am right out of college and have traveled a number of time to Venice. (About 6 times in the last 8 years) Something happened a couple years ago and apparently they started to let cruise ships come back into Venice. I have noticed that since that has happened, there are so many more tourist and I agree it is a big turn off. They need to ban cruise ships from coming into Venice and that wouldn't be a problem. When I was there last summer I counted 12 cruise ships, there wasn't even room in the port, they were docked out in the water and were being tendered in. It was so nice before and can be nice again!

Posted by: Kimberle - Jul 22, 2008 11:55 AM

We just returned from Venice last week and had a wonderful time. The key is getting off the main streets. Just one block off the main drag between St. Marks Square to the Rialto Bridge and it's peaceful. We stayed right by St. Mark's at the Hotel Campiello. From thehHead away from St. Marks along the water to the left and you will run into a great park near the section of Venice where a ton of locals live. That's the true experience.

Posted by: DB - Jul 22, 2008 12:44 PM

Although I saw Venice in March 2002 over Spring Break when I was 12 and crowds were at a minimum compared to what they are now, we stayed at the bustling Hotel Rialto. What I did notice was that we could have Venice to ourselves between the hrs of 6-9 am and 11 pm - to the wee hours. It's worth forgoing sleep so you and Jules can take in the magic that is Venice. There are so many unique shops and produce stands frequented by locals. I had the best strawberries and raspberries at a local stand and the shops actually had better & cheaper merchandise than the ubiquitous souvenirs sold everywhere else.

Posted by: Rebecca - Jul 22, 2008 2:22 PM

Jackie, I look forward to your continuing observations about Europe; to date they've been quite informative and entertaining. Allow me to pose a question: given this is not your first trip to Europe, I'm curious about the number of Americans you've encountered and how it compares with past trips. Here in the U.S. we hear much about the weakness of the dollar and the malaise that is associated with the economy. Has this resulted in fewer Americans traveling abroad? Your comments would be much appreciated.

Posted by: David D. - Jul 22, 2008 3:43 PM

I was in Italy a few years back for three weeks and must agree I am not a big fan of Venice...It's a tad much, a little over the top, in other words it can be tacky at times, I prefer simple and elegant....and a lot of the art work starts to look alike after awhile...I enjoyed Pompeii and Rome...Florence I think is a bit overrated, it has some nice museums, however, can be boring-especially for the young...enjoy your trip p.s. will you get grounded for not liking Venice? just joking.....,

Posted by: Jim - Jul 22, 2008 4:02 PM

Jackie, I took your dad's Venice Florence Rome tour two years ago the end of Oct. Venice was fabulous precisely because there were so few people, the weather was beautiful and we had the great, educational tour guides...Donato Chmura was our main guide. Venice to me is not so much about the museums...St Marks and the doge's palace the exceptions but more about the scenery and atmosphere. If there were so many tourists around, I am sure I would not have enjoyed it half as much. Definitely to be really enjoyed in the off season!

Posted by: talia - Jul 22, 2008 5:01 PM

Ms. Jackie: An interesting observation about "the fish", and not the first I've heard in the negative from others who have visited. I myself was in Venice in November '06, and the weather was great. La Piazza di San Marco was still full of tourists, but it didn't full chaotic as I've heard it is in the warmer "tourist" months (the chill also helped with the lagoon smell). I agree with DB: the magic in in the alleys and "back door" fondamenti, real quiet just three blocks behind San Marco. Doge's Palace was awesome, but another great place was The Peggy Guggenheim Collection.

Posted by: Alfran - Jul 22, 2008 6:26 PM

Jackie: My first trip to Italy was awesome, three years ago (June). I read Your Father's book from front to back and scheduled everything from museums to the eurorail pass. I went again a year ago (June/July) with the IAEA ...Illinois Art Education Assoc...and I have to say I LOVE Venice. There is really no other place like it. Riding the vaporetto on the Grand Canal what a hoot ! I'm with you hunting the best gelato AND pizza ! enjoy yourself ! joan just joan

Posted by: Joan - Jul 22, 2008 6:45 PM

Jackie - As a native of Edmonds, I'm very familiar with ETBD and your Dad. I've enjoyed reading your blogs and adventures. I took my first trip to Europe about 20 years ago and followed the advice of the ETBD staff. I'm now immersed in the European travel industry and every time I go to Europe I try to schedule a trip to Venice. Although I always visit San Marco Square and Rialto Bridge - I mostly enjoy walking in the alleys and getting lost. I love to stumble upon private doorways and squares and see families talking and children playing futbol in the squares. I also like to ride the vaporetto down the Grand Canal and sit and admire the buildings. I agree with most of the bloggers - off season is best! I can't imagine visiting during the summer months. The tourists must be unbearable! Have fun and Happy Travels!

Posted by: Carole - Jul 22, 2008 11:19 PM

I have to be picky and point out that it is the Doges' Palace, not the Doge's. But, that said, try one day to get up early and get into Venice at around 8 a.m. there is no one around and you feel the magic of the city. I've forced 2 sets of friends to do this with me and while they grumbled about the early wake up call, they thanked me after the fact.

Posted by: AM - Jul 22, 2008 11:43 PM

Jackie, I've been really enjoying your blog. Having just spent 6 days in Venice, and loved it, I feel compelled to offer a couple of favorite spots. Castello is a great place to wander and be with locals, and I especially liked Viale Garibaldi, a small park. The area near Sant' Elena feels like a different city altogether. Campo Santa Margherita, in Dorsoduro, was also great for people-watching--a good mix of locals and tourists. Get deep into Dorsoduro, and you won't find a tourist in sight. And to get totally away from it all, take the vaporetto to agricultural San'Erasmo. I'm an ardent fan of your dad's books, but actually found myself using Lonely Planet more in Venice--has some great walks that get you out of the mainstream. Have fun!

Posted by: Melissa - Jul 23, 2008 9:32 AM

Stand in front of the doors to St. Mark's Basilica. Turn to the right and start walking past the Doge's Palace until you hit the water. Make a left and continue walking for fifteen minutes. You'll come to an area of Venice that is completely devoid of tourists. It's a beautiful, quiet area filled with parks, and quiet streets. It's also full of local who will be pleasantly surprised to see you on that part of the island. Seems like everyone follows the same path from the Rialto to St. Mark's, or the path from the Accademia to St. Mark's. Of course you'll end up hating Venice if you do that. It'll be wall-to-wall tourists at almost any time of year. But if you do that, all you can really say when you leave is that you went to Venice, saw literally one-percent of it, got mad, and left.

Posted by: Susan - Jul 23, 2008 9:33 AM

Hi Jackie, Venice is totally magical! To find that magic, veer off onto the many little walkways and canals that are not along the tourist traffic areas. Day or night these side areas are wonderful and you can discover a Venice that most others never see. It's worth a wander.

Posted by: Melinda - Jul 23, 2008 10:23 AM

My husband and I have been to Venice 4 times. The first time(1967) we were young and it was so romantic. The second time we took our 10 year old daughter who fell in love with it and said "I am coming back here with out you." And the last two times we found we fell in love with it all over again. We agree though it is best to get off the beaten path. Amazingly you can even at the height of tourist season.

Posted by: Paula - Jul 23, 2008 6:29 PM

My husband and I have been to Venice 4 times. The first time(1967) we were young and it was so romantic. The second time we took our 10 year old daughter who fell in love with it and said "I am coming back here with out you." And the last two times we found we fell in love with it all over again. We agree though it is best to get off the beaten path. Amazingly you can even at the height of tourist season.

Posted by: Paula - Jul 23, 2008 6:30 PM

Hi Jackie, I agree with you on Venice. We have been to Italy twice, and on the first trip Venice, I really didn't care for it. Felt like it was way too expensive compared to the rest of our stops and the people were not that friendly for Italy and I felt like we were in a Rats maze. So I don't think we would go back again even though everyone we ever talk to loved it!

Posted by: Judy - Jul 23, 2008 6:31 PM

"Turn to the right and start walking past the Doge's Palace until you hit the water. Make a left and continue walking for fifteen minutes. You'll come to an area of Venice that is completely devoid of tourists. It's a beautiful, quiet area filled with parks, and quiet streets. It's also full of local who will be pleasantly surprised to see you on that part of the island." I did exactly what Susan said when I was there. I saw a great park with nothing but locals, saw a school with children playing, and saw locals just walking the streets, talking, and shopping. I actually got lost in those streets after walking a few minutes away from the square. It was a great experience. With that said, I am not a big fan of Venice. There are the things you need to see but tourists aside, it's the romanticism of the place that is the draw for people. I just didn't get it. Like I said, I had those great moments of wandering with locals and getting lost but it was not a city with life. As it says in one of Rick's headlines, people are moving out of Venice at an alarming rate. Venice is now for the tourists and for the romantics. I guess my feelings on the matter are this - I didn't enjoy Venice because it doesn't like there is anything very authentic about it. It plays on the few historic places it has to offer and the romanticism and is not really a city that captures, grabs, and pulls you in.

Posted by: Jeremy B - Jul 23, 2008 8:31 PM

Venice was the most amazing place when we were there in 05. We arrived by train and I can still remember my amasement as we pulled towards Venice. We walked everywhere and loved to get lost in the streets. Staying 5 days helped and we actually never used any water transit but preferred walking. I think if you take water transit from place to place you miss a lot.

Posted by: Jane - Jul 24, 2008 6:15 AM

I agree Venice is not my favorite places as well, and I have seen it when fewer tourists were there. It's too baroque for my tastes, for me its a great stopover, but not a place to linger in. When your in a country and it all starts to look alike, its time to move on. After awhile the buildings and art work all started to look alike...so I moved on.

Posted by: Joe - Jul 24, 2008 2:27 PM

The only problem with your blog is that there are not more frequent entires! I am traveling vicariously through you and I eagerly anticipate each episode. Your writing is really mature and concise. Are you considering a career as a writer? If you write this well at 18 I can't imagine how fun it would be to read a book of yours in ten years. Keep writing.

Posted by: debbie - Jul 24, 2008 3:15 PM

Jackie is right on. Of all the places I have visited in Europe, Venice was by far the most disappointing and overrated. My impression of Venice, based on a five-day stay in October 2004: Because of the large and noisy crowds, I felt like I was in Disneyland, with the rides replaced by a few beautiful churches and historic buildings. The Accademia museum was a huge disappointment, the Peggy Gugggenhim Museum was interesting, and an extensive Dali exhibition at the Ca' d'Oro was a pleasant surprise. Of course, when the interior of St. Mark's Basilica was lit, the gold mosaics were spectacular. This was counterbalanced by a rip-off gondola ride (against my best judgement but one of our group insisted we do it). Frankly, the best part of the whole experience was our stay at the San Clemente Hotel, a former women's asylum built by the Austrians and located on an island in the lagoon. The food was absoultely outstanding and the quietness of the small island was a welcome change from the madness of the tourist masses. I'll take Florence or Rome anyday over Venice (day or night).

Posted by: Robert - Jul 25, 2008 9:51 AM

Venice has become one of my favorite places to visit as I have learned to find the hidden local restaurants, gathering places and attractions like gathering late at night in the square behind the Fish Market and Rialto Bridge. These places are still there but looking for them is a challenge.

Posted by: Rich - Aug 01, 2008 12:38 PM

Venice has become one of my favorite places to visit as I have learned to find the hidden local restaurants, gathering places and attractions like gathering late at night in the square behind the Fish Market and Rialto Bridge. These places are still there but looking for them is a challenge.

Posted by: Rich - Aug 01, 2008 12:38 PM

I agree with you too Jackie. Anywhere around St. Marks Square, I found myself wanting to ask "Where's the mall directory?"

Posted by: Jonathan - Aug 08, 2008 7:39 PM

gosh, I totally understand what you mean about the churches not feeling holy. While visiting St. Peters in Rome, I was so in awe of where I was but I was there as a "tourist" and felt bad about it. I'm Catholic and I wanted to feel holy but I didn't. I need to go back as a pilgrim, maybe things will be different

Posted by: regina - Aug 22, 2008 4:39 PM

I loved Venice!!! went in mid October and stayed for 6 days. Our hotel was wonderful, but not in the tourist section, closer to the train station. I took lampworking classes on Murano and got to meet fellow artists while my husband wandered and ate the best food. After my class we would explore the wonderful, quiet(no motors) streets and alley ways and stop for glasses of the local wine for around .80 euros a glass. By the third glass we would settle for dinner in tiny little restaurants that were like eating at grandma's house. Totally delicious, and they treated you royally. They never brought the check until you asked, you could sit there all night if you wanted. Also lots of great concerts in ancient churches. I would go back in a second.

Posted by: KAREN DROSNES - Jul 12, 2009 8:29 AM