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Yesterday, our private guide Mine took us to visit the Blue Mosque. I thought I had a modest dress on, but they still made me cover my shoulders with one scarf and my knees with another. There was a low-hanging chain at the entrance, where even the sultan must dismount his high horse before entering the mosque. This is because in Islam, everyone is equal before Allah. Inside the mosque, however, the sultan is “more equal” — he gets to pray on an elevated platform.

Mine explained the segregation between men and women in mosques: Women praying behind men is only practical because women bowing to pray in front of men would be distracting. I think to make it fair they should just divide the mosque in half the other way, such that the left side is for women and the right side for men so that neither has to be behind the other.

We visited Hagia Sophia, a fascinating blend of church and mosque. It was originally Christian during the Byzantine Empire, but when the Ottomans conquered Constantinople in 1453, it was converted to a mosque. Its Christian frescoes were plastered over, its stained-glass windows replaced, its crosses made into arrows, and all representations of people, or “idols,” were covered up. In mosques you can have no depictions of humans, but only floral designs and some Arabic script.

We took the tram to Kabatas and then a taxi to the flea market in Ortaköy. We bought these big, delicious baked potatoes for lunch. What they do is slice the potato open, mix in butter and cheese, and then you choose whatever vegetables, meats, and sauces you want in it. I got peas, corn, cabbage, and rice. They squirt ketchup and mayonnaise on top. It's a bit decadent.

We walked around the flea market for a while, checking out cashmere scarves, ornate jewelry, funky pants, and lots of junk. I bought four scarves for 43 YTL (about $35). Pashminas are so soft and such decent quality for a good price. They will make great gifts. The guy kept telling me the prices were fixed, and he couldn't offer me a lower price. But I was persistent and got the price from 50 YTL down to 43 YTL.

About This Entry

You are reading "Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Ortaköy Flea Market", an entry posted on 12 August 2008 by Jackie Steves.

9 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.


Comments  [ top ]

Jackie – I’ve really enjoyed reading your blog. I agree with your idea about women praying with the men – good insight. You are a good shopper – congratulations on your negotiation skills. Sounds like you’re really enjoying your trip. Thanks for taking the time to share it with the rest of us!

Posted by: Donna - Aug 12, 2008 7:13 PM
Jackie, it's been great seeing Europe through the eyes of a youth, and most of all thanks for not seeing life through rose colored glasses! We could all learn from you!

Posted by: Jay - Aug 13, 2008 8:37 AM
Hi Jackie I'm also eighteen, and I've been reading your blog since you took off to Europe. I'm leaving for Britain tomorrow morning, to sail around the world on a tall ship for my first year of university. I want to thank you for taking the time to post regular and fun experiences that you've had with your friends, as it has prepared me for some of the challenges I will also be facing in just a few weeks! I've just finished my packing, and I hope you'll be pleased to note that my jewellery is in three separate retainer cases... It's so nice to hear tips from someone my own age that I can relate to. Thanks again and safe travels, -Lizzie

Posted by: Lizzie - Aug 13, 2008 9:16 PM
I just want to say that, I just found your blog today, and I read it from the very beginning to end, It sounds like youre having an amazing time. Two years into college, I realized like you already have, that we have the rest of our lives to make money, we need to take advantage of our youth, and travel, and see the world! I look forward to reading further entries!

Posted by: WrBoyd - Aug 14, 2008 2:04 AM
Your blog is well written and entertaining; as I have been to most of the places mentioned I nod along and agree with most of you assesments . You have two proud parents I am sure .

Posted by: John Brangwin - Aug 14, 2008 8:14 AM
great bargaining at the Turkish market. It is tough to do at first but you had the will and persistence, Congrats. I also did my first bargaining in Istanbul at 21 yrs of age a long time ago.You will remember this trip the rest of your life, just like your Dad.

Posted by: JS - Aug 14, 2008 3:18 PM
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Posted by: wedding - Apr 18, 2010 7:44 PM
I think to make it fair they should just divide the mosque in half the other way, such that the left side is for women and the right side for men so that neither has to be behind the other.

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