Jackie Steves Blogs Europe - Died and Gone to Turkish Bath Heaven

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Died and Gone to Turkish Bath Heaven

Yesterday afternoon, we went to the Grand Bazaar. After a little while, we grew very irritated with the vendors calling out to us. Some of them are very obnoxious and stand in your way to make it difficult to pass. They seem so desperate for business that they make you feel guilty for passing them. We learned that the easiest way to get by is to completely ignore everyone who talks to you.

I don't think I have ever before seen so much jewelry, ceramics, scarves, T-shirts, slippers, hats, rugs, tea glasses, spices, or knock-off purses in my life. The Grand Bazaar definitely makes for a tiring shopping experience, dealing with the pushy vendors and getting lost in the maze of shops.

Last night we had the luxurious experience of a Turkish bath. We paid 46 Turkish lira each (about $35) for “traditional style” baths — which include a 15-minute scrub and massage by the attendant. Unlike most women, who were naked, we wore our bikinis. When we first walked into the big, marble-domed bath room, which felt like a sauna, I imitated some women who were at the water faucets along the wall. They were using a bowl to pour water over themselves, so I lazily poured water over myself for a while.

An attendant motioned for me to come over to her and lie down. She rubbed my body with a kese (a scrubbing mitten). When I glanced down, I saw all this dirt that had been scrubbed off. I had no idea that so much dirt had been covering my body! Then she poured a bunch of soapy suds on me and massaged my body more. It felt so nice. We couldn't communicate, so every time she wanted me to move, she would just tug my body this way or that. I felt like a child again with my mother bathing me.

After the massage I washed my hair and lay down for a while on a big marble slab. When my friends wanted to go, I got up only reluctantly. Afterward, we all marveled at how clean and relaxed we felt.

About This Entry

You are reading "Died and Gone to Turkish Bath Heaven", an entry posted on 22 August 2008 by Jackie Steves.

9 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.

Previous Entry, Trying New Things: Turkish Delight, Raki, Turkish Coffee, posted Aug 20 2008

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Comments [ top ]

Hi, Jackie, Your bath experience sounds so luxurious! What a great way to experience the culture with a sense of touch, instead of the usual siteseeing, sounds, and tastes. Thanks again for taking time to blog!

Posted by: Carol, Maryland - Aug 22, 2008 11:19 AM

OH NO, please say it isn't so, Jackie. I thought the hard sell come-ons for an over abundance of souvenir junk (and especially the obnoxious, fake designer purses) was essentially restricted to Asia.

Posted by: Rebecca - Aug 22, 2008 2:15 PM

Doesn't it feel decadent having someone else take care of you like they did in the Turkish bath? I have a friend from Istanbul. His family just came over for 1-1/2 months. Both he and his family are hysterical. I love the detail that you provided in this installment. Keep up the good work.

Posted by: Douglas, Philadelphia - Aug 23, 2008 6:34 AM

I have enjoyed reading your blog. Hope you are having a grand time. Thanks

Posted by: Neil - Aug 24, 2008 7:56 AM

Jackie it was fun to read your hamam experience. It brought to mind my 1st time!('85) I was alone & much older(it took me 'till I was 23 to save up to leave Australia by ship to England to meet my Dad's wonderful family ('64)Before I went I asked the Turkish lady at the Tourist office, "When I go to the hamam, should I take my bathing suit?" She replied, "If you wish" not very helpful!I took it, but they handed me a cotton sarong & wooden clogs so I left my clothes in a cubicle, wrapped the sarong around me & clomped after the older lady to the inner sanctum. I had opted for 'the works' which included a shampoo with lemon soap!I learned to bring my own-if they did it for me they used the whole bottle! So I did it myself, but I loved their strong fingers massaging my scalp!I bought some kaese, which I was told were Ipik-silk-for gifts, but didn't figure out how to keep one on my hand. With the language barrier, the woman would slap me on the leg when it was time to roll over! I felt like a sack of spuds! But being covered in lemon soap bubbles is so luxurious, isn't it? They take great delight in showing the dead skin they've scrubbed off you, floating away down the drain! I learned not to have the 'works' too often, or all my skin would be scraped off! At 1st, I thought it was a test to see how much vigorous scrubbing & massage I could take! I learned to protect myself & gesture when I'd had enough! I found the hamams quite commercial & the massage cursory along the West coast, & noticed western girls in their bikinis. In Bursa on a Saturday there were mothers washing their children & their clothes, teens frolicking in the shallow pools in their petticoats for modesty, asking me to join them. A girl with a hand drum led a conga line round the room. they asked to use my lipstick, making me feel like a dowager aunty! I planned one trip just for hamams, & was sad to find some closed. My favourite is Egidir, more so after revisiting 8 yrs later-same sweet lady.

Posted by: Kay Louise Cook - Oct 10, 2008 3:57 AM

The Korean style bath is exactly what the Turkish bath is--we use the scrubbing towel to scrub away all the dead skin (it comes out like tiny shards of gray thin noodles)...but in the Korean Bath house, the ladies who perform this bath also wash your hair and give a head massage as well. And you don't even have to go to Korea--I live in Los Angeles and they are all over Koreatown. If you have one near your house, you can experience it again. It's addicting!

Posted by: Sarah - Jan 01, 2009 9:06 PM

I had never before considered visiting Istanbul, but now it's on my list. Thank you for your blog! As for the baths, very close to you in Lynnwood you can have that same experience at the Olympus Spa. It is heavenly!

Posted by: rapunzel - Apr 04, 2009 10:23 PM

Thanks for taking me back to my Turkish bath experience in Istanbul (1988, age 20). My two girlfriends and I had the same strong scrubber, I swear, and rested on that same dome of marble while the steam rose around us (only we were very naked and the soap she used to wash my hair left me in great need of hair products!) Thanks for the memories :)

Posted by: kira - Apr 07, 2009 7:28 AM

Posted by: ifti - Nov 08, 2009 2:50 AM