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Yesterday we took a breezy three-hour, high-speed train ride from Barcelona to Madrid.

I met up with Federico, a guide friend of my dad's, for a guided walking tour of the city. We began at an Egyptian temple that dated back to many centuries before Christ. We visited the palace, where we enjoyed spectacular views of the park to the east of downtown Madrid, as well as the Cathedral next door.

I was curious about the Spanish monarchy. I learned from Federico that they have absolutely no political power, but the people choose to have a monarchy so that the royal family may act as cultural ambassadors of Spain. He said the family moves between nine palaces at certain times of year, but that these palaces are owned by the people — not the monarch. The democratically elected Parliament wields real political power.

Spaniards must really care about their culture, because supporting a fancy royal family and carting them and their 100-plus attendants around the country every couple of months must cost a boatload of tax euros!

Federico showed me a grand monument to Miguel de Cervantes and his novel Don Quixote. Federico's enchanting stories from certain chapters of the novel persuaded me to read Don Quixote when I get home. Don Quixote is expected to be the brave hero, but he is really a complete idiot. His fat little sidekick squire, Sancho, supposedly a simple-minded peasant, is actually very wise and saves Don Quixote from all kinds of trouble. Cervantes cleverly wrote this sarcastic novel to critique society and government at a time when any blatant criticism would not be allowed.

Miguel de Cervantes died April 23, 1616 (the exact same day as Shakespeare). Now April 23 is the International Day of the Book. On this day Spaniards buy one book and sometimes a rose to give as a gift to someone else. I thought that was such a nice literacy-promoting alternative to all our commercial "Hallmark holidays" in the States.

A Muslim wall was erected in Madrid in the ninth century to separate Christians from Muslims. People would climb over that wall "like cats" to visit whatever friends and family they had on the other side. Today there is a corollary to that name. Someone who was born in Madrid and comes from many generations who have all lived in Madrid is called a "cat." Federico proudly told me that he himself is a “cat.”

The name of this city is a hybrid of names that different invaders gave to the area at different points in history. In the second century B.C., the Romans named it "Matrice," referring to rivers that run through it. Six centuries later, Muslims renamed it "Mayrit," referencing the area's water resources as a "womb" or a "giver of life."

A name that means "giver of life" is definitely fitting for Madrid. I think I like Madrid better than Barcelona. It is so lively here. The streets are more bustling, with a tourist-local mix. The cafés are more crowded at all hours, and the city breathes, using its huge Retiro Park for lungs. Even some of the squares like Plaza Santa Ana are populated — with trees.

Throughout our tour we dodged many construction projects. The people of Spain call their mayor "Pharaoh" because he has planned so many projects to improve the city in hopes of winning the bid to host the Summer Olympics of 2016.

Zoe and I waited at a restaurant for 40 minutes for their next batch of steaming seafood paella to come out. Terribly oily and absolutely delicious. The waiter of course overcharged us three euros for our wine, but we caught him!

— Jackie

About This Entry

You are reading "The City Run Not by A King, but by a "Pharoah"", an entry posted on 11 July 2009 by Jackie Steves.

16 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.


Comments  [ top ]

Your experience with Federico illustrates the passion of a good guide: Sharing a rationale for royalty in the 21st century, inspiring you to read Don Quixote. I can see my friend lovingly leading two teenagers with the same energy as a group of 25 adults, shining a light on a less shallow alternative to Hallmark holidays. His agenda: to take these two lovely Hallmark card girls and wrinkle them with the weight of the world…to rough up their edges and broaden their perspective. Federico burst onto the scene in my circle of tour guides like he bursts into opera arias with the drop of a hat at our tour alum parties in Seattle. Thank you Federico!

Posted by: Rick (Jackie's Dad) - Jul 10, 2009 11:14 AM
I get to Europe about every other year, and this is my year to sit home and live vicariously through your blog! Although I've never been to the Iberian peninsula, your wonderful writing and imagery has taken me there this summer. It's on my list for next year! Thank you so much for including us in your adventures and keep those pictures coming! Happy travels, Karin

Posted by: Karin - Jul 10, 2009 11:23 AM
You are teaching me so much! I find myself doing an internet search on the places you mention so I can learn even more. Thank you.

Posted by: Betty - Jul 10, 2009 3:38 PM
I'm learning about other cultures and peeeooople, too.

Posted by: Betty Mango - Jul 11, 2009 2:07 PM
Jackie......when I am overcharged in a restaurant I cut the tip in half......that gets the point across.....

Posted by: Bill27 - Jul 11, 2009 2:18 PM
Jackie is lucky to have a dad who cares. We can all learn from her odyssey and replies to her diary from those who follow her adventures. Careful not to slip on cobblestones when wearing flip-flops. Hostels in southern Europe are ok if you like young drinkers. Chicken is sometimes undercooked everywhere. Boys will be boys. Girls just like to have fun. It's not worth getting heat stroke for a tan. Big city Spaniards are not quite as friendly to Americans as we might wish. Benefit from good guides who inspire travel and always try to amuse your muse. Some ooh and ah over Sagrada Familia. Others wonder, what's the point? Check your fire exit from Hotel Europa and all hotels. Consider a purse with uncuttable straps and guard it like your money depended upon it.If you run with the bulls at Pamplona, avoid the one named Cappucchino. Consider consulting tripadvisor.com before eating anywhere. Sancho Panza is everyman's wife. When you get the bill anyplace, including Pike Street Market, smile but verify. Our own monarchs are also very costly and also live in a house that doesn't belong to them called the White House.

Posted by: bill - Jul 11, 2009 3:01 PM
Madrid has a lot to offer. You can go to Museo del Prado, Museo Reina Victoria, Thyssem Bornemizza or exploring the Gran Vía Street. Don´t miss the Plaza Mayor of Madrid, there you can eat for less euros and have the chance to observe people working as statues or musicians. If you have time you can take the train to Toledo in Atocha Station or instead the bus in Mendez Alvaro Bus Station. Other towns very interesting to visit are Avila, Segovia, and Aranjuez. After been in Madrid, I felt in love with Andalucia, the Mediterranean is so beautiful. Don´t miss a Flamenco show.

Posted by: Danny Medina - Jul 11, 2009 6:57 PM
Jackie - could you please post a pointer to Zoe's blog also. Much enjoying your blog and keep at it ! My sis's husb. is from the Basque country ( only Indo-Basque couple I know of :-) ) - any plans to head that way ? Happy trails from sunny Calif. :-) -vikas

Posted by: vikas ( bay area, California) - Jul 11, 2009 8:30 PM
Excellent post. I enjoy and am learning from the posts by both of you more than ever. Thank you.

Posted by: Audrey in Keizer, OR - Jul 11, 2009 8:46 PM
Vikas, I'm not sure what you are asking. Zoe blogs right here with Jackie. Just check the name at the end of the blog.

Posted by: louisa - Jul 12, 2009 4:22 PM
Jackie, your guide frederico took our etbd group through the prado and reina museums in may. His style, true love of art, and knowledge brought the paintings of picasso and el greco to life. As with francesca, strolling rome's forum, or walking beside herr jung on vine-covered rhein river slopes, this traveler's experiences were muliply enriched by their passionate personal word portraits. Yes, going on one's own with rick's fine books, can be enlightening, yet a living, teaching and caring guide next to you brings travel truly alive. Larry from springfield,

Posted by: larry - Jul 13, 2009 3:11 AM
It's funny how this Rick guy is always the first one to post on these blogs. It's like he knows when they are going to be posted or knows the guy who runs this site. Maybe he knows the man in charge which is why he is always the first to post. :) Jackie, great insight as usual. However, I have to admit that I liked Barcelona better than Madrid. Madrid was probably my least fave city in Spain. I would give it another shot. It was busy but seemed to lack life, culture, identity. We actually used Rick's book and recommendations but it just lacked a little something other Spanish cities had. It appealed to me. Also, never knew that was the theme of Don Quixote. Did he mean that govt doesn't have a clue? :)

Posted by: Jeremy B - Jul 13, 2009 2:05 PM
Jackie, here is a cheap, good place to eat in Madrid where there seemed to be a lot of locals. - Fres Co. This is what I wrote about it in my journal "This is a very unique and cheap buffet place to eat where you can get pasta, some Spanish specialties, desserts, and a drink for 8 euros. It wasn’t the best food I have eaten but it was filling and a great experience. Almost everyone there was a local out for lunch."

Posted by: Jeremy B - Jul 13, 2009 2:13 PM
I grew up in the UK and became a "small r" republican - I though the monarchy was a expensive waste. Then I moved to the US and saw how much deference was accorded the President, who is, after all, a politician. I couldn't believe all the soft-ball questions at press conferences (this was the 70s, it's slightly better now, but I know that our last President would never have survived Parliamentary question time!) Now I'm a monarchist - I like the idea of having all the political power in Whitehall and Westminster and all the ceremonial power in Buckingham Palace.

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