Jackie Steves Blogs Europe - “Absurdly Gorgeous” Views, Ludicrous Sexism, and Ridiculously Oily Fish

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“Absurdly Gorgeous” Views, Ludicrous Sexism, and Ridiculously Oily Fish

This morning we went on another Lisbon Walker walking tour. This time, instead of downtown Baixa, it was “old town” Alfama. Tons of rather dry history was a bit difficult to stomach at such an early hour, but we did witness some views that were “absurdly gorgeous,” as Zoe accurately observed. I had to pinch myself while looking out over Lisbon's charming jumble of rooftops and winding alleyways, and the expansive, dazzling Tejo River.

Before we earned the rewarding views, we had to walk up tons of stairs. Alfama is located on a steep hillside, so I could hardly believe our guide when he said guys race bicycles from the castle at the very top down these steep stairs and narrow alleyways, ending down on the waterfront—all in under two minutes. Red Bull sponsors the “Lisbon Downtown Downhill Race” each year. If you don't believe me, check it out for yourself.

We invited a guy from our hostel named Max, from Brighton, England, to join us for an afternoon at the beach. (It's nice to bring a guy friend along because then we are subjected to a lot fewer brazen catcalls.) We rode the convenient train route west along the river to Cascais. The beach was crowded with Portuguese youth. Zoe and I waded into the water, but it was too cold for us to go much past our knees since this is where the river nearly reaches the Atlantic.

Max was great fun to talk to except when he was lost in thought nursing his own heartbreak over a recent breakup with his Brazilian girlfriend. We discussed gender relations. He seemed to think it was acceptable for guys to go out and be loud and drunk, but it was not OK for girls to do so. He expressed concern that more and more “ladies” (his term for females who behave like disgusting males) go out and party obnoxiously. Zoe and I sure gave him an earful in response to his sexist views. He seemed to digest our contention, but then he went on to talk about how British girls these days are degrading themselves so much that they have earned Britain the highest teenage pregnancy rate. He was so oblivious to what a sexist mentality he holds.

For dinner we went to a restaurant recommended to us by Rita (our guide from Monday) to finally try dried and salted codfish—the dish Portugal is most well-known for. It's called bacalhau and they purportedly cook it a million different ways, so the locals never get sick of it. The version Zoe and I tried was almost like fried fish and chips, with all the oil they cooked it in. It was topped with onions and homemade potato chips. I liked it more than Zoe, but from my first experience with it, I wouldn't say I absolutely love bacalhau.

— Jackie

About This Entry

You are reading "“Absurdly Gorgeous” Views, Ludicrous Sexism, and Ridiculously Oily Fish", an entry posted on 25 July 2009 by Jackie Steves.

6 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.

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Comments [ top ]

To me Lisbon’s Alfama — the Visagothic birthplace of the town and a last refuge of charming yet rough lanes — is almost sacred. It was one of my original “back doors” in my 1980 first edition of Europe Through the Back Door. Now the local fishermen have been replaced by immigrant workers needing cheap apartments and Red Bull sponsors bike races down the Alfama’s stepped lanes.

Posted by: Rick (Jackie's Dad) - Jul 24, 2009 11:22 AM

While it’s pretty salty as a main course, I’d say bacalhau is best as a cheap little fishcake bar snack. I’ve been in Norway this last week and learned that 800 years ago, Bergen’s raison d'être was as the place where fishermen from the far north would trade their cod (pickled in the dry arctic wind) to German merchants who’d then sell it to Europeans in need of a fish that wouldn’t spoil. Centuries later, in an odd cuisine twist, Norwegian cod is still the Portuguese staple.

Posted by: Rick (Jackie's Dad) - Jul 24, 2009 11:24 AM

On most of the planet, unfortunately, it is still very much a man's world. I say unfortunately because half the world's human resources are women and you would have to be a moron to dismiss any resource with energy, intelligence and insight. Behind my back, they kidded me in Germany when I suggested women would be well received as technical representatives for sophisticated organizations. Ditto, England and Italy. But only a few years later things have begun to change dramatically - in pharmaceuticals, in computer software and even in general manufacturing. But make no mistake, even in the U.S. there is plenty of sexism to be rooted out. Of course women must contribute. They cannot expect to take a year or more off and then be re-installed at a comparable level to a man who has been contributing mightily and learning during that same year - unless those same women are genuine geniuses or own the company. Women do the things described by Jackie because they feel they must "to fit in." They do not have to do that despite the blandishments of their male colleagues or customers. Maintain your standards and others will respect them. Lower them and you will regret it. Bill Kester

Posted by: bill kester - Jul 25, 2009 2:34 PM

Thanks ladies for the insight into travel, and the gorgeous photos. You have wonderful ability to draw us along with you in your adventures... I have written a few posts before I actually 'read' the posting guidelines, so all those questions, deem them 'rhetorical' or just ignore them! If I am allowed one however, I would ask that you clue us in on what you do to protect your valuables while off on tours or at the restaurants? The cameras and small items I understand, but what about your laptops, or are you somehow travelling without them? (Rick, maybe I missed this in your quidebooks, maybe on one of the posts on your site you could weigh=in?)

Posted by: Sam - Jul 25, 2009 9:12 PM

Jackie, you've helped this traveler put Lisbon up on his list of next must-see places. When before you described Barcelona and Madrid, seeing the Prado and Sagrada Familia church, through your eyes, with the same guides our tour used just months before, I was ready to book a flight back to spain. I now check your blog site every day-even before reading rick's. After many europe tours, led by both men and women, with a like balance of local guides, I've seen that the guide gender (like life gender) doesn't matter. Enthusiasum, knowledge, and honest care for each traveler being guided, matters. Skill dealing with locals, making sound decisions in sometimes mere seconds (safety issues/traffic/pedestrians for example) and to repeat, wanting to provide the best for client/travelers has nothing to do with gender. These same chacteristics translate and apply to all other aspects of work and life (remebering always how travel makes life better!) So your clear thoughts and real examples about gender behaviors, how to have fun, and make memories even with salt cod (!) and the people you meet, give a great start this reader's days. Thank you. Larry from springfield. earn travel choices

Posted by: larry - Jul 26, 2009 4:26 AM

Hi girls- I just stumbled onto this blog while daydreaming of my trip next summer to Portugal and read every entry at one sitting. Longtime Rick fan, brand-new JackieZoe fan. I am a high school Spanish teacher whose students are well versed in Rick Steves culture, not to mention shows and even "Postcards from Europe" as an end-of-year gift to departing seniors, hoping to inspire the travel bug. I love that you girls are doing this trip! I did a similar one for six weeks back in the day and still have good friends scattered across Europe from it. It's weird that people we ran into randomly back then are people we VACATION with now, with all our kids! (we do the "let's meet in Munich for Spring Break" group thing, it's great.) I can only hope that you join up with Dad and become a travel guru lady. Happy travels! P.S. the internal debates among your online blog followers is unintentionally hilarious. As soon as someone writes something negative, you've got several defenders immediately on your side! And it's also interesting to see your Dad's posts. Tell him I did a Harvard paper on him: the assignment was to explain the origin of one of your life passions (don't worry: the "passion" was immersion travel, not "Rick Steves" personally, although he seems like a great guy. :) )

Posted by: Jenny from Tennessee - Jul 26, 2009 9:35 AM