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On our last day, Jackie and I agreed to go to a small, charming, picturesque town — without any type of itinerary. With clothes on our backs and books in our bags, we rode the train to the last stop — Sintra. It was a destination we had been told would be criminal to miss, so we committed the entire day to it. We were feeling melancholy about our impending departure from one another (and for me, from Europe entirely), but it made our last hours together all the sweeter. Sintra immediately lived up to its reputation for beauty and charm. After walking not more than a few minutes, we saw on our left a stone wall, and on the right a breathtaking panorama. The town was built around a valley, and the valley had pretty structures amongst lush vegetation. Palm trees and a diverse array of statues, all by different artists, lined the road. The road ended in a hilly cobblestone-street neighborhood. Little winding streets were lined with shops selling touristy merchandise and restaurants boasting, "Real Portuguese Food" and "Hamburgers and Hotdogs."

We found ourselves a delightful little reading nook next to a pretty fountain and parked there for an hour or so, leaving reluctantly, slaves to our hunger. We retraced our steps, passing the train station to venture in the opposite direction we had initially walked. After some routine restaurant-choosing dysfunction, we sat down in the one restaurant in town that really did not want our business. After we had been seated in this particular restaurant, the waiter told us we could stay for 15 or 30 minutes. We respectfully scarfed our chow mein and cashew chicken.

After lunch, we returned to a spot we had scoped out on our way to lunch — shaded benches, pigeons, and a killer view. As usual, my book was not as captivating as my surroundings. Jackie and I grew restless quickly and headed home, eager for our night of food and fado — a genre of music we had heard much about.

No one could have prepared me for the romance that awaited me on our last night in Lisbon. Rick had alerted a restaurant-owner friend of his about our visit, and we were welcomed into his restaurant with open arms. We were ushered into an intimate corner and presented with bread, cheese, and tuna. Rick's friend insisted that everything on the menu was good, something we didn't doubt, but still probed him for specifics. Seafood rice was ordered, and it arrived just as the lights dimmed, and a blind fado singer and his guitarist took the "stage." In the dim red light, listening to the melancholy music, eating the freshest, most delicious seafood, Jackie and I agreed it was the most romantic date of our lives. Three performers and four servings later, after having pronounced ourselves stuffed, a frothy coffee-flavored dessert was ceremoniously served. Of course we obliged, just as we obliged when we were invited to his son's bar right above the restaurant. The son made us deliciously weak mojitos, and then argued confidently that music accompanied by lyrics was not, in fact, music. We exited the bar soon after our table was infiltrated by a frighteningly intense teenage boy with braces.

The streets were filled with young people with drinks and cell phones in hand. We worked our way through the crowd, striking up a few conversations here and there. We ducked into another bar so I could use the bathroom, and I am pleased to say it was there that I was finally mistaken for Portuguese. There isn't much of a story there, but it must be noted as a victory. The day having been one success after another, we were content to go home at a reasonable hour. We informed a couple of boys wishing to...get to know us better that we were going to walk home so, sadly, could not go dancing with them. They feigned astonishment, exclaiming, "Alone!? No, we will walk you." Without explaining to them that they could not act as our protectors, as they were what we needed protection from, we dashed off and hurried home. I was jealous that waking up the next morning meant the rest of Europe for Jackie and Home for me, but I left Lisbon content with my whirlwind of a trip. I knew no real goodbyes were necessary. Spain and Portugal haven't seen the last of me, and Europe hasn't even seen the beginning! I left confident knowing my friendship with Jackie will never fade, and neither will our drive for adventure. When we hugged goodbye in the airport, I couldn't help envisioning our next journey together...

— Zoe

About This Entry

You are reading "Sweet Sweet Sintra", an entry posted on 26 July 2009 by Jackie Steves.

22 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.


Comments  [ top ]

Zoe......what a great last entry....nice photos too...nice to hear you and Jackie will be friends for life....will miss your part of the blog....this entry was so descriptive as were all the others....maybe you can lead an RS tour another time....safe trip home

Posted by: Bill27 - Jul 26, 2009 11:33 AM
Thanks Zoe, it's been great fun traveling with you and Jackie thru your very interesting and descriptive blogs. Have a good trip home!

Posted by: Teri - Jul 26, 2009 12:00 PM
Zoe, your friendship and travel blogging with jackie have brought me pure reading pleasure itself. Keep writing and traveling. Larry from springfield.

Posted by: larry - Jul 26, 2009 1:08 PM
Zoe & Jackie, Thanks for a wonderfully descriptive "last Blog". It's been interesting following your travels in Spain and Portugal (areas I haven't seen yet). Travel is so much nicer in the Internet era! I'm sure this is somewhat of a "bittersweet" time for both of you. Memories of your shared adventures and the good times of your trip will always be with you (memories that can be refreshed from time-to-time with your photos). As you head back to the realities of daily life and Jackie heads for another travel adventure, best wishes and good luck to both of you in the future.

Posted by: Ken D - Jul 26, 2009 1:10 PM
Zoe !!! You are going to tell us the name of the book you posed with on the bench? Ask Jackie to if you are now out of the loop.

Posted by: b - Jul 26, 2009 1:53 PM
Zoe and Jackie, I just wanted to say that I have really enjoyed reading your blog. You both have a wonderful descriptive style and I look forward to reading about your adventures in the future.

Posted by: Nancy - Jul 26, 2009 2:21 PM
Zoe, you have a terrific gift for words, made all that more powerful by the way you share personal stories and emotions. Like so many I have been following this blog daily. Thank you so much for sharing your experiences in such a vivid and honest fashion. Many people say you can judge a person by the friends they keep; I've never met Jackie but she must be quite a lady to have such a great friend! Obrigado... Tim...

Posted by: Tim - Jul 26, 2009 3:56 PM
Z-You have helped to give us a great travel blog to follow...as Rick always ends his shows with: "Keep on Traveling". BTW great photos!

Posted by: Rob - Jul 26, 2009 4:44 PM
Zoe, you are a superb writer! Excellent blog and a great adventure--thank you for sharing sooooo openly.

Posted by: crusty - Jul 26, 2009 5:33 PM
Zoe, we haven't heard the last from you! No, won't do for us. You are delightful, energetic, and charming. I just returned from a Colorado trip and reunion with my friend of 46 years (I think I may have mentioned this previously -- if so, sorry). You and Jackie have created memories not for yourselves but for us too. Next summer you and Jackie should be assistant tour guidles on one of Rick's tours and provide another blog for us. Thank you again for a great summer of reading and the best to you in U-Dub.

Posted by: Audrey in Keizer, OR - Jul 26, 2009 6:20 PM
All I can say is...wow. The journey you've had are the kind that permeates the bonds of friendship..forever. I have to admit, the final few sentences of your blog leaves a lump in my throat. Very poignant, and leaves me reminiscing Veracruz as a wide-eyed, open-hearted 22 year-old (my first journey to another country) traveling with my best friend (Happy Birthday, Nikhil!). May you have the best of everything, Zoe.

Posted by: Alfran - Jul 26, 2009 8:32 PM
Zoe, you are a great blogger and amazing writer. Please come back next year for more adventures with Jackie. I'll miss your posts but it sounds like you'll be back in the future.

Posted by: A - Jul 26, 2009 9:23 PM
Thanks for allowing us to share on your journey. I will miss your writing and adventures! Best of luck back at Washington!

Posted by: Jeremy B - Jul 26, 2009 10:07 PM
Zoe, thanks so much for the wonderful telling of the trip, both in words and photos. As you loll on the grafitti covered bench, I can't help but think you will have a wonderful life of travel and adventures... Even if they aren't with Jackie we hope you will include us thru your blogs... A lot of what you have shared with us over the last few weeks (my how fast they've past by!)has shown how easy it is to make friends in different cultures, and how to enjoy travel outside of tour groups. (No offense Rick, I know tours are special in their own way, but I think this independent travel style brings about new challenges.) Any chance of a wrap-up blog of the "BEST OF" from your entire trip? Best wishes and may the breeze always brighten your day... Sam

Posted by: Sam - Jul 27, 2009 6:04 AM
Thanks, Zoe---you were a joy to read--please continue writing!

Posted by: Leah - Jul 27, 2009 8:03 AM
Zoe, really enjoyed reading your blogs. They were filled with wonderful descriptions and emotion. I was in Lisbon and Spain 25 years ago and you made it come alive for me again. Thanks!

Posted by: Donna - Jul 27, 2009 12:23 PM
Zoe, Thank you so much for taking us on that magical journey to Spain and Portugal with you. Your imagery was so vivid that I could picture just how romantic that last night was for the two of you girls. I'm sure your bf back home is jealous! Anyway, it has been a real pleasure to read about your travels and to get to know you. One last question, though... how is it possible that your surroundings, as beautiful as they were, could have possibly been MORE captivating than a biography on Paul Newman??? Paul Newman, the greatest/hottest actor of all time??? Well, I guess like any great author, you have left me perplexed and pensive. Please explain that one to me when you get the chance. All the best.

Posted by: RudyTown - Jul 29, 2009 12:41 PM
Hello. There isn?t much better in this life than finding a way to spend a few hours in conversation with people you respect and love. You have to carve this time out of your life because you aren?t really living without it. Help me! Need information about: Bathroom cabinets knobs. I found only this - white mirrored bathroom cabinets. In modern times float glass; is used in the manufacture of mirrors, which is a flat ribbon of glass which is run out of a furnace and along the surface of a bath of molten tin. The benefits of a corner bathroom vanity. THX ;-), Russell from Antigua.

Posted by: Russell - Aug 11, 2009 11:53 PM
Hello. Three o'clock is always too late or too early for anything you want to do. Help me! Please help find sites for: Wall mount bathroom medicine cabinets. I found only this - recessed bathroom Cabinets. Having bathroom vanity cabinets helps me feel a connection to my ancestors in a way that simple photographs can not quantify. They work particularly well in night clubs, reflecting the many images of light in the club or room to create a feeling of a much bigger space. Best regards :mad:, Maeko from Japan.

Posted by: Maeko - Aug 12, 2009 10:41 AM
Good evening. When you go into court you are putting your fate into the hands of twelve people who weren't smart enough to get out of jury duty. I am from Uganda and too bad know English, please tell me right I wrote the following sentence: "A complete guide to bathroom mirrors." With respect :p, Gregg.

Posted by: Gregg - Aug 12, 2009 10:43 PM
Greeting. All God does is watch us and kill us when we get boring. We must never, ever be boring. Help me! Help to find sites on the: Us home products sells if you would like to buy this cabinet, please click view catalog below.. I found only this - [URL=http://zen-dojo-recklinghausen.de/Members/Cabinets]master bathroom Cabinets[/URL]. The bathroom is very small! About ft wide and ft long. Traditional looking cabinets can look great when paired up with other similarly themed items and a good design that really brings out the beauty in each of them. Thank you very much ;-). Lowell from Marino.

Posted by: Lowell - Aug 13, 2009 10:06 AM
Good morning. Nothing is impossible. Some things are just less likely than others. I am from Zambia and now teach English, tell me right I wrote the following sentence: "Stock has rather been textual in commodities." Regards 8) Amoke.

Posted by: Amoke - Sep 05, 2009 1:07 AM

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