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This morning we took the train to Sintra, a town just 15 miles north of Lisbon. It used to be the perfect getaway for Lisbon's aristocracy and royalty. Now their palaces have been turned into museums and their gardens into public parks for tourists to enjoy.

Up until today we have followed a rather busy itinerary, seeing a few sights a day. Today I told Zoe, “Let's do today Zoe-style and just explore the town aimlessly.” So that was the nature of our visit to Sintra, and in the end we were very glad for it.

We wandered away from the train station, up the delightfully green hillside, in the direction of the castle. Most of the buildings are centuries-old mansions so rustic they meld with nature, seeming to belong perfectly. A few little areas of touristy cafés and shops interrupt this harmony, but even these little businesses were charming.

Zoe and I took turns doing silly poses with the sculptures that stood at intervals along the path winding up to the palaces. We couldn't stop taking pictures of the hillside and the water — really the epitome of picturesque. Every once in a while we came upon groups of little children following each other in a line like little ducklings, all wearing the same color hat, either blue or red or yellow. They must have been summer day camps for Portuguese young children — very cute.

We didn't go inside any of the palaces or the castle. Instead, we meandered up random alleyways and came upon a little peaceful refuge with a fountain at the center decorated with Moorish tiling. The trickling water and cool shade called us to rest and read our books for a bit.

— Jackie

About This Entry

You are reading "A Zoe-Style Visit to the Postcard-Perfect Town of Sintra", an entry posted on 27 July 2009 by Jackie Steves.

8 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.


Comments  [ top ]

Thinking about Jackie and Zoe going to Sintra and not even entering a palace or castle grates against my tour guide sensitivities. But then I considered the other extreme: going there and seeing all the palaces and castles without any “Zoe-style” wandering and wondering. This would be missing just as much. It’s easy to have a checklist of sights. Where the traveller distinguishes his or her experience is taking that time to be poetic and observe the glint in the old tiles, the cool and rhythm of the lonely fountain, the happiness of a school group holding hands two-by-two on an adventure away from the classroom, and the way the buildings meld with nature. No museum or palace turnstile can spoon-feed you those delights. It’s up to you. Hooray for Zoe.

Posted by: Rick (Jackie's Dad) - Jul 27, 2009 11:37 AM
Ms. Jacqueline Steves, My crime partner, confidant, and companion in travel, traveling with you was an honor, and a dream come true. You played the role of a mother, a sister, and a best friend to me on this trip. Waking next to you every morning was comforting because I trust you so completely, but exciting because I feel empowered to do anything when I am with you. The world needs more people like you. I will never forget this trip, only pray for more to come! And, Rick, your "hoorays" mean the world to me. I cannot thank you enough. Keep fighting the good fight!

Posted by: zoe S - Jul 27, 2009 12:02 PM
Jackie, really enjoyed reading your blogs. You are your fathers daughter with the same insights and delights that he has. I was in Spain and Portugal 25 years ago and you made it come alive for me again. Thanks!

Posted by: Donna - Jul 27, 2009 12:28 PM
Jackie, thanks so much for sharing your trip and Zoe with us. I hope you continue your blog during your stint of assistant tour guide. Sometimes a person needs a Zoe Day as you can get museumed and churched out. Keep writing. Your have faithful readers.

Posted by: Audrey in Keizer, OR - Jul 27, 2009 12:41 PM
Aimless is the antithesis of guided tours. Can't say anybody should be completely aimless because you could wind up someplace you really don't want to be. And of course aimless sort of rules out some highly qualified guides and formal tours. But in a perfect world I would find the right guide who speaks several languages and pay that guide to take me on an aimless tour -keeping in mind my personal general interests. Concierge tourism!! Too small a market perhaps - but my idea of heaven.

Posted by: bill kester - Jul 27, 2009 2:35 PM
Thanks for sharing these posts....truly been a pleasure!

Posted by: Peter from Tampa - Jul 27, 2009 8:07 PM
Jackie, thanks so much for putting yourself "out there" so we could travel with you and Zoe. It really has been a blast reading your blogs. Given all the daily hits you generate for the R. Steeves website, I think the boss should give you the summer off (with pay), to travel around Europe on your own, in return for a daily blog! Maybe you could round up your partner in crime as well! Cheers from Canada

Posted by: Tim - Jul 28, 2009 5:22 AM
BRAVO! THANKS! Next?

Posted by: Steven - Jul 28, 2009 8:34 AM

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