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Eastern Europe Explored

By Rick Steves

In 2003 our “Best of Eastern Europe” tour was a big hit. All 12 of our scheduled tours sold out. Tour members and guides alike reported a fabulous experience). The region’s new affluence gives luster to its heritage. And a fun-loving, well-educated new generation welcomes travelers. The era of Communism has faded into the museums. And those traveling here in 2004 will enjoy heady celebrations as much of what was the dreary Warsaw Pact joins the European Union. Understandably, Eastern Europe has become one of our most popular tours. It’s easier to capture in photos than in words. Here are some lessons and memories I captured during my tour of this region in September, 2003.

Prague at nightPrague, the "Golden City of a Hundred Spires" - Prague, the best-preserved big city in Eastern Europe, is the only major city to have escaped the bombs of World War II.

Local shows points at the on-going construction in PragueRebuilding Prague - Fifty years of Communism left cities like Prague rundown and covered in grime. Today, as Eastern Europe looks West, cities like Prague are cleaning up their industries, giving elegant facades a face-lift, and replacing asphalt with charming cobbles and pedestrian zones. If you haven't been to Prague since 1989, you won't recognize it today.

Inside Prague's central train stationPrague's central train station - The Communist era left Eastern Europe with some decent public transportation, but ugly train stations were erected, designed in the obligatory reds and grays of that era. The low ceilings still make the individual feel like staying in line.

Local youth standing in front of Prague's Lennon Wall gives the peace signPrague's Lennon Wall - Before the fall of Communism, Czech freedom-lovers found inspiration at the graffiti-covered wall dedicated to John Lennon — an icon of Western freedom in the 1980s. Authorities whitewashed it countless times but the spirited graffiti kept coming back. Even today...after 14 years of independence, Czechs treasure their freedom and their Lennon Wall.

Inside Prague's Jewish MuseumPrague's Jewish Museum - Hitler planned to convert several of Prague's synagogues into the "Archive of the Extinct Jewish Race," showing off the artifacts the Nazis plundered from the Jewish communities they destroyed. Well, Hitler's extinct and the Jewish race thrives. And Prague's Jewish Museum, the most fascinating Jewish sight in all of Europe, tells their story.

Cesky KrumlovCesky Krumlov - The delightful town of Cesky Krumlov, two hours south of Prague, is the Rothenburg of Eastern Europe. While touristy, it's still a treat to visit for its rare Baroque theater, colorful castle, canoe trips, and cheap and characteristic restaurants.

Inside Budapest's House of TerrorBudapest's House of Terror - Throughout Eastern Europe, museums exposing the ugliness of the Communist era are opening. Budapest's powerful new House of Terror details the tactics of both the Nazi and Communist secret police that terrorized Hungarians from 1940s until 1989. A powerful theme: the human cost. The faces and videos of innocent victims are followed by the faces of the perpetrators, many of whom remain at large, living just down the street from the loved ones of those they killed.

Visitors enter through metal detectorsSecurity in Eastern Europe - Eastern Europe feels peaceful and stable. The only security I encountered was at airports and at Jewish sights such as this, Budapest's main synagogue.

Locals share a park bench and enjoy the sunshineCapitalism trumps Socialism - Eastern Yuppies are embracing capitalism wholesale. The good-looking rich guys get the cute girls and then ignore them to do business on their cell phones. The result: birthrates are way down. Young couples throughout Eastern Europe are more interested in buying cars and houses than paying for children.

A religious ceremony brings Poles togetherCatholicism in Poland - For centuries Poland has been threatened by Orthodox Russia and Protestant Germany. For most people here, to be Polish is to be Catholic-it's ingrained in the national spirit. Many believe that without Catholicism, the Polish nation couldn't have survived the partitions that swept the country off the map for generations. During the Communist era, the way to voice dissent was to be a good Catholic. And today, the Catholic Church remains strong. Travelers will see many pilgrim groups, hear all the latest on new saints, and find churches alive with worshippers, not just tourists.

A local guide points the way to KrakowEastern Europe goes better with a local guide - A bright and fun generation of new young guides all across Eastern Europe are proud to share their cities and cultures. Over the years we've found the very best and are enthusiastic about connecting our groups with them over the course of the tour. It's local guides like these that make your visit especially meaningful.

One of Poland's 'milk bars'Got Milk? Poland does - During communist rule, the government-wanting to be sure workers could afford to eat out once in a while-subsidized Bar Mleczny cafeterias. These dreary "milk bars" served traditional Polish meals at impossible prices. They survive today-serving up dinners for about 4 zloty (a dollar), providing a nostalgic taste of an era that is otherwise fading into the history books.

Krakow's main square at nightKrakow Rocks - Poland's top tourist attraction promises to be "the next Prague." Tourism has brought Krakow prosperity-great restaurants, comfy hotels, and plenty of welcoming sights. And it's not yet a tourist trap. A glass of wine and a salad with a serenade on Krakow's floodlit main square caps one of the best days Europe has to offer.

For all the details, check out our Best of Eastern Europe Tour in 18 Days!