In 2003 our Best of Eastern Europe tour was a big hit. All
12 of our scheduled tours sold out. Tour members and guides alike reported
a fabulous experience). The regions new affluence gives luster to
its heritage. And a fun-loving, well-educated new generation welcomes
travelers. The era of Communism has faded into the museums. And those
traveling here in 2004 will enjoy heady celebrations as much of what was
the dreary Warsaw Pact joins the European Union. Understandably, Eastern
Europe has become one of our most popular tours. Its easier
to capture in photos than in words. Here are some lessons and memories
I captured during my tour of this region in September, 2003.
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Prague,
the "Golden City of a Hundred Spires" - Prague, the
best-preserved big city in Eastern Europe, is the only major city
to have escaped the bombs of World War II.
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Rebuilding
Prague - Fifty years of Communism left cities like Prague rundown
and covered in grime. Today, as Eastern Europe looks West, cities
like Prague are cleaning up their industries, giving elegant facades
a face-lift, and replacing asphalt with charming cobbles and pedestrian
zones. If you haven't been to Prague since 1989, you won't recognize
it today.
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Prague's
central train station - The Communist era left Eastern Europe
with some decent public transportation, but ugly train stations
were erected, designed in the obligatory reds and grays of that
era. The low ceilings still make the individual feel like staying
in line.
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Prague's
Lennon Wall - Before the fall of Communism, Czech freedom-lovers
found inspiration at the graffiti-covered wall dedicated to John
Lennon — an icon of Western freedom in the 1980s. Authorities
whitewashed it countless times but the spirited graffiti kept coming
back. Even today...after 14 years of independence, Czechs treasure
their freedom and their Lennon Wall.
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Prague's
Jewish Museum - Hitler planned to convert several of Prague's
synagogues into the "Archive of the Extinct Jewish Race,"
showing off the artifacts the Nazis plundered from the Jewish communities
they destroyed. Well, Hitler's extinct and the Jewish race thrives.
And Prague's Jewish Museum, the most fascinating Jewish sight in
all of Europe, tells their story.
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Cesky
Krumlov - The delightful town of Cesky Krumlov, two hours south
of Prague, is the Rothenburg of Eastern Europe. While touristy,
it's still a treat to visit for its rare Baroque theater, colorful
castle, canoe trips, and cheap and characteristic restaurants.
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Budapest's
House of Terror - Throughout Eastern Europe, museums exposing
the ugliness of the Communist era are opening. Budapest's powerful
new House of Terror details the tactics of both the Nazi and Communist
secret police that terrorized Hungarians from 1940s until 1989.
A powerful theme: the human cost. The faces and videos of innocent
victims are followed by the faces of the perpetrators, many of whom
remain at large, living just down the street from the loved ones
of those they killed.
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Security
in Eastern Europe - Eastern Europe feels peaceful and stable.
The only security I encountered was at airports and at Jewish sights
such as this, Budapest's main synagogue.
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Capitalism
trumps Socialism - Eastern Yuppies are embracing capitalism
wholesale. The good-looking rich guys get the cute girls and then
ignore them to do business on their cell phones. The result: birthrates
are way down. Young couples throughout Eastern Europe are more interested
in buying cars and houses than paying for children.
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Catholicism
in Poland - For centuries Poland has been threatened by Orthodox
Russia and Protestant Germany. For most people here, to be Polish
is to be Catholic-it's ingrained in the national spirit. Many believe
that without Catholicism, the Polish nation couldn't have survived
the partitions that swept the country off the map for generations.
During the Communist era, the way to voice dissent was to be a good
Catholic. And today, the Catholic Church remains strong. Travelers
will see many pilgrim groups, hear all the latest on new saints,
and find churches alive with worshippers, not just tourists.
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Eastern
Europe goes better with a local guide - A bright and fun generation
of new young guides all across Eastern Europe are proud to share
their cities and cultures. Over the years we've found the very best
and are enthusiastic about connecting our groups with them over
the course of the tour. It's local guides like these that make your
visit especially meaningful.
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Got
Milk? Poland does - During communist rule, the government-wanting
to be sure workers could afford to eat out once in a while-subsidized
Bar Mleczny cafeterias. These dreary "milk bars" served
traditional Polish meals at impossible prices. They survive today-serving
up dinners for about 4 zloty (a dollar), providing a nostalgic taste
of an era that is otherwise fading into the history books.
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Krakow
Rocks - Poland's top tourist attraction promises to be "the
next Prague." Tourism has brought Krakow prosperity-great restaurants,
comfy hotels, and plenty of welcoming sights. And it's not yet a
tourist trap. A glass of wine and a salad with a serenade on Krakow's
floodlit main square caps one of the best days Europe has to offer.
For all the details, check out our Best
of Eastern Europe Tour in 18 Days!
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