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Hi From Rick: On a Dresden High

Rick Steves' Europe plants 80,000 trees
Dresden's Frauenkirche has gloriously risen from its ashes.

Dear Traveler,

I'm standing in the courtyard of Dresden's royal palace, squinting up into the morning mist. At exactly 11:15, forty Meissen porcelain bells begin a sweet three-minute melody, and I can see each of them vibrate as they ring. I am mesmerized by this little royal trick.

Then I wonder why I'm so thrilled. Several groups of sturdy Russian tourists who crowd the same square don't seem to be that impressed. Then I realize I'm on a Dresden high. In an eastern German town I've known for just a few years, I've been enjoying new insights and great new sights — newly restored and newly open to the public.

The highlight of my visit was the newly restored Frauenkirche. Dresden's 310-foot-tall Church of Our Lady was destroyed during the massive bombings one night in 1945. With a huge international effort, the heart and soul of the city was put together like a massive jigsaw puzzle — using as much of the original stone as possible. Today it's open once again. The interior is stunning: pastel to heighten the festive nature of the worship, curvy balconies to enhance the feeling of community, and with seven equal doors — to welcome all equally and send worshippers out symbolically to all corners to share their enthusiasm for their faith.

My Dresden visit started rocky. Riding the express train into town, I figured it would just stop at the main station. The train pulled into Dresden Neustadt — the New City of Dresden. Okay. Most of the passengers got out. So did I. The train took off. I walked and walked with my bag, really sweating, in a confused fog. I must have walked twenty minutes as my denial that I had gotten off on the wrong station slowly faded. After circling the big block and pretty embarrassed at my mistake, I pondered cutting my losses and just taking a taxi to my hotel. But another train was leaving in minutes for what must be the central station. I hopped on. Five minutes later we arrived. I hopped out at Dresden Mitte. The train took off and I stepped outside the station again, and it slowly sunk in: I made the same mistake…again. Another train came in a few minutes. I got on it and finally made it to my intended station: Dresden Hauptbahnhof — a block from my hotel. As I tell travelers in lectures: "Many towns have more than one train station."

One of my best skills — extremely helpful in my line of work — is the ability to make mistakes...with gusto. After a day in Dresden, my frustrating start was a distant memory. And I had a new appreciation of a city that just 60 years ago lay in smoldering rubble, just 20 years ago was in a USSR-imposed economic hole, and today seems to have caught up with Western Germany.

In contrast to the masses of Americans I saw last week in Berlin and Rothenburg, I saw barely one during my entire Dresden visit. But guess what: our 12-day Berlin, Prague & Vienna tour spends an unforgettable day in Dresden. Like all our tours, this one benefits from all my personal research and enthusiasm — with no chance of getting off at the wrong station.

To learn more about the places that our tours explore in this robust corner of Europe — and our great guides who add so much to the experience — check out this month's Tour News. You'll also learn about our gorgeous, hot-off-the-press, 84-page 2008 Tours catalog. Get one to grace your coffee table…and lead you to new travel highs.

Happy travels,

Rick