Where We Were on 9/11
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| Americans in Florence embarrass Rick with applause on September 20th. They were grateful for our website encouraging them to 'travel on.' |
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| Guiseppe and Patricia handle reservations during the post-9/11 confusion at their mom-and-pop Vernazza pensione with a portable phone, and occasional dipey-wipes. |
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| Like this Polish child enjoying the wonders of his first cotton candy, we will continue to eat up travel. |
Shortly after the terrorist attacks of Sept. 11, 2001, ricksteves.com became a gathering place for travelers to share their experiences and seek advice. As a 10th anniversary look back, here is our fall 2001 Travel News "Hi from Rick", followed by letters and emails we received from travelers who were in Europe at that time:
Why Not Travel Now?
By Rick Steves, Sept. 2001
What's our take on travel these days? September 11 was a watershed event giving America a new, more complicated reality. We're dealing with the passions of Islamic fundamentalists, the accessibility of lethal technology to make our media-saturated society sit up and listen, and the fact that our latest enemy resides not in any one country but in the minds of religious extremists scattered all over the planet. This problem is likely here to stay. And given the wealth and power of the United States, we're involved. The question each of us needs to answer is: how will I let this affect my approach to life and our world?
I suppose, after September 11, there will be a few more Americans whose big travel adventure will be down to the bingo parlor. But it's never been more clear to me that if our world is a fascinating book, people who don't travel never turn a page.
September 11 has given many of us a new thirst for understanding. And through travel — connecting with Europeans who have their own take on things — we can better put things together. While media saturation creates vicarious traumatization, real travel gives us a broader perspective and a deeper understanding.
At Europe Through the Back Door we see travel as an expression of freedom. Recent events have energized us to stay focused on our mission. That mission has been the same for 25 years and it's more in tune with our times now than ever: Let's travel smartly, safely, and affordably, in a way that broadens our understanding of this planet and our place in it.
There are many ways to look at risks. Last year 40,000 Americans died in car wrecks. Eight-thousand died in swimming pools. Of the more than ten-million Americans who traveled to Europe this year, not one died because of terrorists. And when it comes to security, Europeans — who have lived with terrorism for as long as I've been traveling — are the masters.
We must distinguish between danger and fear. Our mission is not to reason with folks unnerved by headlines. We're here to help those determined not to let these events close down their world travel on.
My love of life, commitment to peace, and faith in the goodness of humankind comes, in part, from a lifetime of great travels. My calling has always been to help make travel accessible, meaningful, and affordable. Traveling our way — through the back door — has always been safer and more rewarding than through the front door. It's more fun too.
Travelers' Experiences in Europe, September 2001
As I read about how some people are considering changing their plans because of the recent events, I can definitely relate.
My husband and I are graduate students and had plans to take a big trip to Europe in September before having jobs that tie us down. Our flight was scheduled to leave September 13 from Vancouver, B.C. to Frankfurt.
Of course after seeing the events unfold on 9/11 we felt numb about the whole idea of travel. My little sister was at the WTC running away from the rubble as the first tower collapsed, but she was lucky enough to come away with only scrapes and bruises.
Despite all this, it never even occurred to my family that we should not continue to go on this trip. It was what we had to do to not let the terrorist win.
We arrived at the airport 5 hours early on the 13th and sat with disbelief that our flight was still scheduled to depart. Only 45 flights out of 900 made it out that day — most of which were flights diverted to Canada after the airports shut down. Our flight was probably the first regularly scheduled flight to leave North America following the attack.
While you might have reservations and even fears, don't let them prevent you from your travel plans. As others have pointed out, Europe is a very safe place and you need to trust the US government when they say it is safe to fly. We are now back from our trip and have no regrets about our decision. It was very touching to see how the world embraced America and also very interesting to hear other perspectives on the situation. Overall, I would do it again in a heartbeat.
— Stephanie in Seattle, WA, 10/3/01
I am 22 years old, currently in England, and have been traveling for nearly six weeks on my own. I won't be arriving back in the states for another two months and as such this week has been very difficult as I have friends who live in New York and D.C. who cannot be contacted or accounted for.
But the people here have been so supportive. Just in stopping an elderly couple on the Prince of Wales Pier in Dover to take a picture of me, I began a heartwarming conversation on how they wished me luck and safe travels. Later in a cafe the owner let me have the newspaper I had been reading on the events unfolding and told me that she just wanted to let me know that, "We're behind you and support you."
Walking along the coast of England and seeing all of their flags at half-staff is yet another reminder of the compassion of these people.
I admit confusion as to what to do next, but am planning on continuing my travels. Thank you for posting information on your site, it is the only information I have found for those traveling overseas at this devastating time.
— Aislinn in Blackstone, England, 9/13/01
In remembrance of Tuesday's victims, Dublin closed down completely last Friday, everything was locked up and American flags flown alongside Irish tri-colors, all at half-mast.
One of our Tour Members went to pray in Portrush and had a little girl show her the way to the Catholic church and then kneel down and pray with her. Just today in Kilkenny, an elderly woman approached me after hearing my accent, took both my hands, began crying, told me how sorry she was for all of us.
People here seem to know that this is an immense human tragedy, rather than just an American one. Everyone has been very kind and supportive without exception in Ireland and Northern Ireland.
— Darbi, Tour Guide in Ireland, 9/18/01
I was in Paris when the attacks happened. At first we were scared of what this would mean for Americans who were overseas. Then realized that we were safer there than at home.
We flew to Dublin the next day. In Dublin we saw an outpouring of love for our country by these people. The Irish have experienced terrorism so many times and there were many Irish lost in the attacks in the USA. I was so impressed that on the day the world remembered those lost (Fri. Sept. 14th), the Irish closed the entire country. Schools, shopping areas, restaurants and all other things were closed that day. I was amazed that another country had this much respect for us.
I encourage anyone to travel. If we do not we are letting them win by putting that terror in us. In my opinion, Europe loves us more than ever.
— Christi in Spartanburg, SC, 9/30/01
Four of us were in Stade, Germany on 9/11, looking up his family history at the Staatsarchiv building when one of the young librarians came to us, and in her limited English and my limited German, tried to explain what had happened. It wasn't until we returned to the hotel later that afternoon and saw the horrific pictures on TV that we fully understood what she was trying to tell us.
We, too, received much support and sympathy from the German people and were impressed by their flags at half-staff. We saw flower and candle memorials in town squares as well as in front of cathedrals. We resolved to not let the tragedy take away the enjoyment we had been getting out of this long-planned trip to Germany.
We met a school teacher with her class while walking the walls of Rothenburg who told us her class was going to have a candlelight march that evening in their home town to raise money for victims.
We were able to participate in the Oktoberfest in Munich Sept. 23 and shared a table with 4 young Americans from Chicago who had come over a few days before to celebrate one couple's anniversary. They, too, had decided not to let the terrorist activity dissuade them from pursuing their travel dreams.
As Rick noticed in his recent Italian visit, the crowds at Oktoberfest were also considerably smaller than expected. But we were only there the first weekend and I hope things picked up after that.
Again...the people we met were wonderful, kind and sympathetic, and we are so glad we continued our trip across Germany.
— Don and Mary in Lincoln City, OR, 10/4/01
This is a honeymoon to remember.
September 11th, Florence, Italy: My wife was sleeping as I was flipping the TV to CNN to see what was happening in the world. I watched that second plane crash into the WTC tower. I woke my wife and we proceeded to the internet cafe across the street to check in with our loved ones. We were astonished and horrified as well as everyone else around the world. The Italians and tourists from other countries shared our pain and expressed their sympathies.
Two days later, in Siena, we joined a candle light vigil that left Il Campo and wandered the streets of Siena with a hundred Italians and tourists alike. We suffered nothing but kindness and heartfelt good wishes throughout the rest of our trip.
When it was time to come home, exactly one week after the attack, we had a minor delay from Rome to our layover in Amsterdam.In Amsterdam, everyone went through two security checkpoints and had to show their passports, boarding passes, and answer a number of questions to a security guard at the ate before they were allowed on the plane. We were back in Seattle a few hours late but safe and sound.
Here are a few points to ponder:
1) The Europeans have been dealing with terrorism for the past 20 years or more. They know how security works. My parents traveled around Europe in the late 70s and they still remember the submachine gun toting soldiers at the airports.
2) The terrorists are targeting Americans specifically. Their beef is with us. Aside from military bases and Embassies, it is difficult to isolate Americans as targets in Europe.
To put it simply, I think it may be safer in Europe than here at home.
Those of you that are hedging on whether to go or not should go and enjoy yourselves. Show those extremists that we will not be cowed and let our European friends know that America is not beaten and will never give in to cowards.
If we had the money and vacation time available, we'd go with you.
— Mark in Redmond, WA, 9/24/01
On September 11th, my wife and I were on the last day of a 3 week tour of Eastern Europe, in which we had visited Belarus, Poland, Slovakia and Hungary. We had just arrived in Vienna from Budapest, and were in the process of getting ready to fly home the next morning, when we received word of the terrorist attacks from our innkeeper, Frau Budai.
Like many other travelers in Europe at the time, our next several days were spent in an effort to get more information, and to eventually find our way home. It wasn't until a week later, on the 19th, that we finally arrived back in Seattle.
Being away from home during the terrorist attacks and their aftermath was at the very least disconcerting. However, the support and empathy we received from nearly every person we encountered is what I will remember most about our extra week in Europe.
Everywhere we went, locals went out of their way to assist us once they learned we were American. Several strangers stopped us in the street to offer condolences. One man helped me decipher an Austrian phone book as I was searching for the address of the Lufthansa office. Others helped us locate a place where we could watch English-language CNN. Frau Budai did not charge us for our additional nights at her pension, insisting that we instead donate some of that money to the Red Cross. When we finally did depart, her son even gave us a ride to the airport!
It's comforting to finally be back home, safe and sound. But it is even more comforting to know that people across the globe have been willing to help us in our time of need. We consider all of them our friends, and thank them for their kindness.
— Dave in Kirkland, WA, 10/1/01
Having just returned from 4 weeks in Spain, before and after the attack, I would like to say theEuropeans we encountered were absolutely incredible in their expressions of sympathy and solidarity with the USA. We want to express our thanks for the kindness and consideration shown us as Americans by all the people of Europe we encountered during our trip.
Unfortunately, we cut our trip in half due to the amount of time we were spending with CNN trying to keep up on the news. Our thoughts were continually returning to what was happening at home and it made no sense to continue vacationing when we could not keep our minds on the vacation.
We look forward to taking up our trip exactly where we left off. Until then it is more comfortable being at home awaiting the uncertainty of the situation.
— Raymond in Edmonds, WA, 9/28/01
I've been in Turkey with a tour group since September 29. We were sad to discover that only 13 of our fellow travel mates appeared for the ever-informative and rich experiences that have been unfolding. We have been received always with graciousness and condolences for the recent attack on the USA. For once, we are the recipients of others' concern.
I feel grateful for having the opportunity to learn and understand the beginnings of our civilization, but more importantly, the Islam religion. As has been emphasized over and over, Islam is a religion of peace and does not sanctify killing or suicide.
I think that we Americans need to acquire a broader understanding of our world so that we are able to delineate the differences, or discover, more likely, our commonalities whatever our race and religion. I will hate to see our trip end. It has been most enjoyable and I treasure each new experience—and my new carpet, as well.
— Jan in Seattle, WA, 9/27/01
I agree with Rick. DO NOT BE AFRAID TO TRAVEL. I had been in London just 2 weeks when Sept.11th hit. I found incredible support from the people here. I knew virtually no one at the time.
Upon hearing I immediately headed for the first pub with a TV. Everyone was so consoling and comforting. I sat there literally crying in my beer, as I watched the TV.
I was staying at a hostel, and 2 days later a note went up offering a free room to an American! I stayed with the family for 1 week, though they said they were very sorry to see me go. I felt a week was long enough to impose. We really had fun together, and I plan on getting back together with them shortly.
Yes, it was difficult being on foreign soil as your country was being bombed (as I put it). But what could I have done back in California? And my friends are supportive of my trip. I find Europeans united w/ us Americans, and to this day people are still so comforting, wherever they are from. Travel is a good way to get your mind off the past, and focus on the future.
— Charles in Santa Rosa, CA, 9/27/01
My husband and I just returned from three wonderful weeks in Italy. We have been planning this 25th anniversary dream trip for a long time. We were scheduled to leave four days after the attack, and we thought we may not be able to go. But when the airports started opening up and our flight was still scheduled, we thought, are we going to let these barbarians ruin our personal lives? Hell, no!!
We are not a nation that crouches in fear. Our nation was started by some very brave immigrants who left their homelands to start over again in a strange country. That took a tremendous amount of courage. They wanted a nation with a Freedom from Fear. We are their descendants. Yes, we get complacent and spoiled with our wonderful lives and opportunities, but when we are awakened our strength prevails!
So, with Rick Steves' "Italy 2001" book in hand, we proudly boarded that plane. We had nearly three wonderful weeks touring Sorrento, Naples, Rome, Tuscany (Panzano in Chianti), Pisa and Venice. We felt safe on all forms of transportation...trains, planes, buses, subways, boats, rental car, and a gondola in Venice! People were very kind to us.
The President of Italy stated that these terrorists were moralistically 1900 years behind the rest of the world. Why should we let these backward people run our lives? That is just what they want. They are heartless cowards who prey on civilians because they know they are no challenge for our military.
So, please, don't let them ruin our travel industry. Get out there and do your ancestors proud!!
— Judy in Omaha, NE, 10/3/01
I just returned today from 2 weeks in Europe, and felt safe at all times in the air and on the ground. I was a little nervous about flying only 1 week after the horrible events of 9/11, but was put at ease by the heightened security at the airport. European airport security is even tighter (e.g. 2 x-rays and a hand search in Frankfurt). The long security lines are a small inconvenience compared to the peace of mind they provide.
I also felt extremely safe traveling within Europe, even at large public events like Oktoberfest. The terrorist acts mortified Europeans just as much as they did us. I only heard expressions of support and sympathy for the American people.
I actually felt less at risk in Europe than I do here at home. Is there ever a guarantee of safe travel? No, of course not. But based on my recent experience, I wouldn't hesitate to get on another flight and return to Europe tomorrow.
— Frank in Wilmington, DE, 10/3/01
Here in Seville, Spain where I study and work, I was amazed at getting so much support and compassion from Spaniards and other Europeans, most of whom I didn't know personally. Then I realized that they understood the brutal, barbaric blow we had received — the shocking pain, suffering, the fear — because they had collectively experienced attacks on their own civilians in every European country.
My hope is that we North Americans can build on this new level of understanding and truly work together with Europe to erradicate the multiple causes of terrorism. Although the streets of any world city can be dangerous we must take care to avoid becoming more isolated and fearfull but rather remain brave...keeping our spirits & heads high, rebuild, follow our dreams and work to make things better.
— Dan in Sevilla, Spain, 9/18/01
While vacationing in Paris with friends, I was minding my own business in 'La Serre' restaurant having the quintessential dinner, quietly, when Phillipe went into violent theatrics in describing the events in New York and Washington DC to a local regular customer. The entire room was hushed, and while I understood every word he said, somehow I didn't trust my comprehension of French anymore. I couldn't believe the story he was weaving, therefore my French must be faulty. Unfortunately, once back in my room I tuned into CNN, and found the horror to be true.
In the streets the next day I overheard a local tell an American, "We are all American today."
The implications of travel in Europe were widespread crack-down on security. Immediately after the attack, it took me exactly 15 hours to fly from Paris to Milan, and go from there to Varenna to begin my tour. Six tour members showed up in spite of everything.
— Karen, Tour Guide in Italy, 9/18/01
It is really amazing how much support there is here in Europe for the US and for Americans travelling over here. Everyone here is hoping that American tourists won't let the terrorists succeed by cancelling their travel plans.
In Rome, Paolo and Enrico at the Alimandi Hotel arranged for people stranded longer (due to flights not departing for the US) to stay longer in their hotel. They even checked the status of flights in the middle of the night to let people know what was going on the next morning.
Walking along the streets of Rome the day after the tragedy, an elderly Italian woman was passing us wearing an American flag on her sweater.
— Robin, Tour Guide in Italy, 9/19/01
The news came to me and my parents while touring the Roman country side. How challenging: local TV and I only know a little Italian.
Anyone considering traveling to Europe, please come, enjoy your visit. For days Italians have had nothing but the kindest comments. The US Embassy near Piazza Barbarini has flowers adorning the lawn.
It has been very difficult to be far from home following such a tragic event. But for those fearful of travel, be reassured. Europe is wonderful, the Italians are warm and loving as ever...and showing it!
America ideals will live on! No hate can stop that.
— K. in Rome, Italy, 9/17/01
On September 4, I met up with my sister and brother-in-law in Milan.
It was quite a surprise to us, while taking a small ferry from the lakeside town of Varenna to the neighboring town of Bellagio, that we would bump into Rick Steves himself. He was very gracious and signed my copy of his book on travelling in Italy, which I just happened to have handy, and indulged us by posing for a couple of snapshots. Looking at those pictures now seems like a peek back in history when we were all a bit carefree (or at least felt that way).
Come September 11, we were ready for our flight home. Once we were in the air, the captain informed us with increasingly cryptic messages, of a problem in New York. It seemed to me at the time that he was using euphemisms for a plane crash somewhere in the New York area and that it might be SOP for a pilot in flight to speak that way. But, in short order, after flying for about one hour, the captain announced that all flights to the United States were being diverted elsewhere and that we would be returning to Venice's Marco Polo Airport.
Rumors had spread within the jet's cabin and many passengers attempted to use the plane's phones to call home. The flight back to Venice was fairly quiet; most people were lost in their own thoughts.
The captain informed us that we would have to dump a significant amount of fuel before landing and that we should not be alarmed at that sight outside our windows. I took a snapshot of the fuel spraying off the wing and being left to the winds above one of this world's most magnificent vistas — the Alps.
Once on the ground, we were given a police escort, for and aft, back to the terminal and were ushered into the VIP lounge. It was there that we all saw for the first time on television the enormity of the situation and the unthinkable tragedy that befell our country and our city. We might as well have been four blocks away instead of 4000 miles away, the effect was so intimate and overwhelming.
The following days were a string of fits and starts, with us finally getting on a flight to America on Friday, September 14. The last leg of the trip found us flying into Newark Airport around 1:30 am, Saturday morning. As we prepared for landing, out of each starboard window, I could see — window by window by window — the silhouette of the World Financial Center in front of the horrible space, now filled with light and smoke.
We were home, finally, but home would never, ever be the same.
God bless the FDNY, NYPD, the Port Authority PD, the EMS and all who made the ultimate sacrifice for their fellow man.
— Tim in New York, NY, 9/28/01
We were in Dinan, a small town in Brittany, France during the ttack, just Blaine and I and our little Skoda car rented from Hertz. We had been roaming the countryside for a few days. We came downstairs on Wednesday morning the 12th of Sept. to check out and head for Normandy when the lady at the hotel desk asked if we were American. When we said yes, she opened the morning paper to full page pictures of the disasters. Of course, it was all in French and the only words we understood from her description were New York, White House and Pentagon. So only through gestures and skimming the headlines for words similar to ours were we able to understand what had happened.
After taking in the enormity of it all, we shakily hit the road not really knowing what to expect from here on out. We were astounded by the width and breadth of the response from people when they discovered we were American. Their sympathy was sincere and touching. They went out of their way to assist us. Anywhere a French flag was flying, it was at half-mast and along side it was always a U.S. flag at half mast, whether at a City Hall, a Park, a cemetery or library. There were also floral offerings at any monument even remotely connected with the U.S. In one small town in Provence, called Grasse, there was a statue of an "Admiral de Grasse" who served in the U.S. war for Independence and around the base of his statue were many floral arrangements from the various civic and social organizations. These things were not displayed for the "tourists" but showed up in many out of the way places.
People in France, whether we realize it or not, feel very strong historical ties to us. Early on Friday the 14th, we stopped at a MacDonald's for our breakfast fix. (You can only eat so many croissants, or baguettes with butter and jelly, the only breakfast the French seem to require.) We noticed a flyer on the front door, and the young girl behind the counter, when she realized by our bad pronunciation of the menu, that we were American, proudly told us that there was to be 3 minutes of silence at noon, for the victims of the WTC attack. Not only in that town, but throughout all the European Union countries. The amazing thing to me was that it was not just a news item, but was actually being participated in even at a local fast food restaurant.
We were on our way to the D-Day landing beaches that afternoon, and discovered ourselves at the American cemetery at noon. There were several local officials presiding at a ceremony. They then played the Star Spangled Banner, then the three minutes of silence (about 150 people were present) and then Taps was played. Standing surrounded by over 5000 white crosses & stars of David, at a moment like that, was absolutely a memory we will never forget.
On Sunday morning we stopped in a huge old timbered cathedral. Sitting in the back of the church hearing the mass in French, I could make out some of the familiar prayers and liturgy. The only words we could really understand were Les Etats-Unis and Americain, so we knew he was talking about the tragedy in New York. Then as everyone stood, the immense organ burst out with "our" national anthem!! We had an unbelievable sense of belonging to a community much wider than that we typically think of.
— Dee Dee in Chesterfield, MO, 9/28/01