Tempelhoff Airport to Close

April 28 — Berlin's Tempelhof Airport, which figured prominently in the 1948-49 Berlin Airlift, will close in October. A public referendum to save the historic landmark won a majority of votes but turnout was too low to certify the election. Once the airport closes, it's unclear what will happen to Tempelhof's giant air terminal — the third-largest building in Europe — which is a designated historic site. Some have proposed turning it into a museum, with a park where cargo planes once roared down the runways.

Ryanair, American Bump Fees for Checked Bags

April 28 — It now costs $32 roundtrip to check a bag on Ryanair, and $16 to use a staffed Ryanair check-in desk (it's free to check-in online). And beginning May 12, American Airlines will charge domestic economy-class passengers $25 to check a second bag. The new charge does not apply to business- or first-class passengers, or international flights.

New Multimedia Tour of Berlin Wall

April 27 — There's not much left of the Berlin Wall, but a new multimedia tour called "Walk the Wall" helps visitors retrace its route. The multimedia guides can be rented at five kiosks throughout Berlin beginning May 1 ($9.50-$24 depending on length of rental). The GPS-enabled units direct visitors along the former path f the wall, with audio files and video clips at key sights: Checkpoint Charlie, the Brandenburg Gate, the Eastside Gallery, the Topography of Terror, and the Berlin Wall Memorial.

Stolen Art Shown at Castel Sant'Angelo

April 24 — An exhibit on now through the end of June at the Castel Sant'Angelo in Rome highlights stolen art recovered in recent years by the Italian art police. Among the pieces on display: the second-century marble head of Roman Empress Faustina, a letter by 19th-century poet Giacoma Leopardi, and a VanGogh drawing. The show also includes a section of counterfeit art.

Deciphering British Rail Fares

April 24 — Famously complicated British rail fares will soon be a bit easier to decipher. Passengers now are faced with a bewildering array of ticket choices, but a new system will consolidate them into three ticket types: Advance (discounted, advance-purchase tickets), Off-Peak (tickets with restrictions, bought up to time of travel), and Anytime (unrestricted tickets bought up to the time of travel).

Euro Breaks $1.60, Sets New Record

April 22 — The euro topped out at $1.6012 against the US dollar today as the US economy continues to falter and European bankers consider raising interest rates to combat inflation. The British pound also rose today to $1.99 against the dollar.

Air Travel Roundup

April 20 — United Airlines bumped its ticket prices up not once but twice last week in response to rising fuel costs. United's fuel surcharge went from $50 to $70. Southwest also raised its prices twice last week. This marks the 12th time airlines have raised prices or fuel surcharges this year. US Airways will charge passengers an extra $5 to sit in an aisle or window seat in the first few rows of the coach section. Also last week, an airline industry report found that 42 million airline passenger bags were lost in transit in 2007, a full 25 percent more than in 2006. While the vast majority of travelers and their bags reach their destination together, one in 2,000 passengers' bags were never found.

Belgian Rail Strike Set for April 30

April 22 — Two rail unions in Belgium plan to strike on April 30 in a bid for higher pay. The strike would affect not only Belgian trains, but also high-speed international trains including the Eurostar to Britian, the Thalys to France, and the ICE to Germany.

Tube Strike Set for April 28

April 18 — London's subway system, known as the Tube, may come to a halt on Monday, April 28, when operators plan to begin a 48-hour strike to protest pension cuts. A similar strike in September closed two-thirds of the Tube network. For up-to-date details on Tube schedules, check www.tfl.gov.uk.

Botanical Art Gallery Opens at London's Kew Gardens

April 17 — The Kew Gardens in London has opened a gallery of botanical art, showing works from its formidable collection of over 200,000 items. This is the first time many of the pieces have been on public display. The inaugural exhibit, on now through October, showcases the most significant botanical artists from the 1700s to today, and includes works from the 18th and 19th centuries as well as contemporary botanical art on loan from the collection of Dr. Shirley Sherwood.

Compensation Increases for Bumped Airline Passengers

April 16 — Beginning May 1, US airlines who bump passengers onto later flights will be required to shell out more for your inconvenience. If you're bumped to a flight that arrives at your original domestic destination more than two hours after your original arrival time, you'll be compensated for the full price of the fare, up to $800. (The limit is $400 if you make it there within two hours). Airlines have a four-hour window to get bumped passengers to international destinations. The previous compensation limits, of $400 and $200, had been unchanged since 1978.

Goya Exhibit Opens at Madrid's Prado

April 15 — The Prado art museum in Madrid is hosting an exhibit of 200 Goya works with the theme "Goya in Times of War." The exhibit of 90-some paintings and more than 100 etchings and drawings focuses on a period at the turn of the 18th century marked by the French revolution, invasion by Napoleon, and Spain's war of independence.

Holocaust Train on Display in Berlin

April 15 — A train filled with photos of children deported by the Nazis during the Holocaust, along with their letters and drawings, is on display in Berlin this week. It's one of the last stops on the commemorative train's journey across Germany, ending May 8 at Auschwitz in Poland where many of the children were killed. Germany's state-run rail company, Deutsche Bahn, has been criticized for its refusal to let the train stop at Berlin's main station, the Hauptbahnhof. Instead the train will be located at the Ostbahnhof for its ten-day Berlin stay.

21 Percent Jump in Eurostar Ridership

April 14 — Two million passengers took the Eurostar between London, Paris, and Brussels from January to February, 2008 — a jump of 21 percent over 2007 ridership during the same three months. Eurostar reported that half the new customers were drawn to the train because of the convenience of its new north London terminus at St. Pancras, with the others defected from ferry or air service, which can be more expensive and take more time.

Oslo Christens Opera House

April 12 — King Harald of Norway opened the new state Opera House in Oslo at a gala attended by German Chancellor Angela Merkel and Denmark's Queen Margrethe. The $835 million marble building juts into the Oslo fjord across from the main train station. Daily guided tours of the opera house including the back stage are $20 per person (more information at www.operaen.no).

British Airways to Delay Terminal 5 Transfer

April 11 — British Airways will wait until June to move more flights to the troubled new Terminal 5 at London's Heathrow Airport. BA had planned to move 120 flights to the new building from other Heathrow terminals on April 30. But significant opening glitches at Terminal 5, including a baggage system that waylaid more than 20,000 pieces of luggage and led to the cancellation of 700 flights, convinced BA to delay the move. The change will affect Air France-KLM and other airlines, who had planned to move into space BA will eventually vacate in Terminal 4.

Speed Limits Set on Autobahn

April 10 — The famously free-wheeling German autobahn is slowing down a bit, as Germany's northern state of Brennan this week imposed speed limits on the freeway. The 75-mile-per-hour speed limit applies only to a 40-mile stretch of the road. Carmakers have fought against imposing autobahn speed limits, while environmental groups are pushing the limits as a way to cut greenhouse gases.

New Constitution Adopted in Kosovo

April 9 — The parliament in Kosovo has adopted a new constitution for the country, which broke away from Serbia two months ago. Supporters hope the constitution will help Kosovo establish a legitimate government and end nearly 20 years of administration by the United Nations. So far about 40 countries, including the US, have recognized Kosovo as an independent nation; however Russia and Serbia continue to protest, as do ethnic Serbs who live within Kosovo.

Medici Tapestries on Display at Pitti Palace

April 8 — Newly restored tapestries are the focus of a new exhibition at the Pitti Palace in Florence, Italy running now through September 28. The display traces the influence of the Medicis on the tapestry industry in Florence. Cosimo Medici founded Florence's first tapestry factory in 1545. Over a thousand tapestries survive, and many are still displayed in Florence's public buildings. The Uffizi Gallery has begun a project to restore the fragile and deteriorating tapestries.

Mobile Phones Approved in European Airspace

April 7 — The European Union has approved new rules that will allow mobile phone users to make calls while onboard aircraft flying over Europe. Mobile phone users would be allowed to make phone calls once the plane reaches an altitude of 9,000 feet. Before they can begin offering the service, airlines will have to install new equipment that creates a circle of coverage around the plane, routing calls through satellites to mobile-phone towers on the ground. The pilot would be able to turn off the coverage if necessary. Air France could begin offering the service within a month.

Terminal 5 Baggage Woes Continue

April 5 — The new Terminal 5 at London's Heathrow Airport, intended to smooth travel for British Airways passengers, has instead resulted in hundreds of cancelled flights and thousands of mishandled bags. In the terminal's first few days of operation, at least 300 flights were cancelled and passengers were limited to carry-on bags only, while about 28,000 checked bags were delayed. The problems were the result of glitches with the terminal's new automated baggage-handling system.

Northwest Airlines Raises Prices; Aloha and ATA Shut Down

April 5 — Citing rising fuel costs, Northwest Airlines has raised prices on international flights, is cutting back its domestic schedule, and has instituted a hiring freeze. Northwest's fuel surcharge for European destinations is now between $115 and $155. Also this week, Aloha Airlines ceased operations after a month in bankruptcy protection, ATA Airlines suddenly cancelled operations as it filed for bankruptcy, and Minnesota-based Champion Air announced it will go out of business on May 31.

But Do They Offer Hot-Stone Massage?

April 5 — Baltimore-Washington International Airport will soon be the test site for a new approach in security screening. The Transportation Security Administration is trying out a more-relaxing security screening environment, complete with softly glowing lights, soothing mood music, and posted biographies of friendly employees. Officials hope that by helping most passengers to relax, suspicious passengers will be easier to identify. Also being tested is a new machine that uses radio waves to scan passengers beneath their clothes for hidden weapons.

Vestali Back On Patrol at St. Mark's

April 4 — Agents of Venice's "Urban Decorum" office will be back on patrol this spring and summer at St. Mark's Square. Tourists will be asked to refrain from sitting on the pavement, eating sandwiches on the square, or going without shirts. The seven female "guardians of decorum" have been nicknamed "Vestali," a reference to ancient Rome's Vestal Virgins — caretakers for an important temple. Venice is also limiting the sale of fast food in the piazza to cut down on trash.

Efforts Underway to Straighten Venice Bell Tower

March 27 — A project to install a metal belt beneath the foundations of the bell tower on St. Mark's Square in Venice began this week, in an effort to stop the tower from leaning. The 324-foot tall bell tower was built in 1912. The tower is leaning about seven centimeters to one side, likely because of a failing foundation. The base of the tower will be wrapped in scaffolding for up to two years.

Tropical Butterflies Land In London

March 26 — The Natural History Museum in London this spring and summer will host a special exhibit of tropical butterflies and moths. The giant maze and butterfly house, filled with native plants and flowers, are located on the museum's east lawn and open daily from April 5 to August 17 from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Entrance to the museum is free; entrance to the butterfly exhibit is $10 for adults, $7 for children, and $28 for families.

Open Skies Means More Options When Flying to Europe

March 26 — The new Open Skies agreement between the US and the European Union goes into effect March 30, making it possible for more airlines to fly to more cities on both continents. Industry-watchers are split on whether the new routes will result in cheaper airfares as airlines deal with high fuel prices and a flagging economy. Some of the new flights, such as those offered by OpenSkies (a new branch of British Airways), will cater to business and first-class travelers, with only a small number of economy seats.

New routes include: Aer Lingus — Orlando and Washington, D.C. to Dublin; OpenSkies — New York to Brussels and Paris; Continental — Newark and Houston to London's Heathrow; Delta — Atlanta and New York's JFK to Heathrow, JFK to Lyon, France, and Salt Lake City and JFK to Paris; Lufthansa — Seattle to Frankfurt; Northwest — Detroit, Minneapolis and Seattle to Heathrow; Air France — Los Angeles to Heathrow; US Airways — Philadelphia to Heathrow; United — Denver to Heathrow.

Trajan's Column To Be Lit Up

March 24 — Plans are underway in Rome to use beams of light to replicate the bright colors that once decorated Trajan's Column. The military conquests depicted on the now-white marble column were originally brightly painted, as were many Roman statues and triumphal arches. The illumination of Trajan's Column is planned to begin on weekends in 2009 and will coincide with new lights throughout the Roman Forum.

World's Most Expensive City: London

March 18 — A study of prices, rents, and salaries by the Swiss bank USB found that London is now the most expensive of the world's major cities. When rent is not considered, Oslo and Copenhagen are more expensive than London. The report found that the rising value of the euro has pushed up cost-of-living expenses in cities where the euro is the primary currency. For example Dublin has jumped from 13th place to fourth. Meanwhile the cost of living in New York has fallen along with the dollar, putting it in 18th place. London is now 26 percent more expensive than New York.

Airline News Roundup

March 18 — Ryanair is offering another round of "free flights" but travelers are warned to look out for hidden costs, such as travel insurance ($12), priority boarding ($6), checked baggage ($42 for two bags), food and drink on the plane ($10 and up), and fees for using your credit card to purchase the ticket. Air France will buy the struggling Italian airline Alitalia for $215 million. The takeover is expected to be complete by 2010. United Airlines and Continental Airlines on Friday raised some round-trip fares by up to $50 in response to high fuel costs. United's fare hike is in addition to its move earlier this month to boost domestic fuel surcharges by $10, bumping the surcharge to $50 on some round-trip flights.

New Terminal Opens at Heathrow

March 14 — Heathrow Airport's new Terminal 5 begins accepting flights and passengers on Thursday, March 27. Construction of the $9 billion terminal at London's extremely busy airport began in 2002. Terminal 5 will eventually accommodate 60 aircraft with 96 self-service check-in kiosks and 54 standard check-in desks, along with a new parking garage. Officials hope the new terminal, which will be used mainly by British Airways for international flights, will simplify and speed up check-in.

Euro Sets Record at $1.55

March 12 — The euro rose to about $1.55 against the US dollar today, an all-time record high. Its 1.5 percent daily gain was the European currency's biggest in over two years.

More Delays for Rome's Third Subway Line

March 7 — Exploratory digging for Rome's long-awaited third subway line has turned up everything but the kitchen sink: ninth-century pots and pans, a sixth-century copper factory, even a Renaissance palace. Plans call for the $4.6 billion USD third subway line to open in 2011, but it could be derailed as the historical discoveries stack up. While the subway itself would run in a tunnel 100 feet below the surface, its stairwells and air ducts would pass through shallower earth, likely disturbing archaeological evidence. A Roman government official will decide whether the historical relics can be moved, destroyed, or somehow displayed within the new subway system.

House of Augustus Opens in Rome

March 7 — Four recently restored and beautifully frescoed rooms in the former home of Emperor Augustus at Palatine Hill in Rome will open to the public this weekend. A guided tour of the house is included in the new Colosseum-Roman Forum-Palatine Hill combo-ticket, but entry to the rooms is limited to five people at a time.

Fuel Surcharges Go Up at Several Airlines

March 10 — Citing the rising cost of jet fuel, British Airlines has increased its fuel surcharge to £128 ($256 USD) for long-haul flights of nine hours or more. Lufthansa is increasing its fuel surcharge to €17 ($26) for flights within Germany and Europe, but so far has left its international surcharge unchanged at €77 ($118). United Airlines and Delta Air Lines increased their domestic fuel surcharges last week by up to $10 round-trip, bringing their total fuel surcharges to about $50 round-trip on some flights.

Colosseum Exhibits Roman Conquests

March 5 — A special exhibit on now through September at the Colosseum in Rome highlights the military triumphs of the Roman empire. The display of 100 statues, bronzes, bas-reliefs, and marble slabs includes representations of epic battles, conquered cities, captured prisoners, and looted treasure, shown alongside busts and portraits of heroic leaders such as Octavian and Caesar.

Germany Disrupted by Series of Strikes

March 5 — Many domestic flights are grounded and some international flights are delayed in Germany, where thousands of workers are striking for better pay. Frankfurt airport has cancelled 80 flights and Lufthansa airline at least 150. Bus and train drivers, school teachers, and other government employees represented by the Verdi public employees union walked off the job yesterday. In Berlin, striking transport workers have caused disruptions to the city's subway, bus, and tram systems. The national train drivers' union is also considering a strike that could affect Deutsche Bahn service on Monday.

Free Entry Ends at Roman Forum

March 5 — Visitors to the Roman Forum in Rome, Italy will pay an entry fee beginning Monday, March 10. The €11 ($16 USD) combo-ticket includes the nearby Colosseum and Palatine Hill. Officials say charging for entrance to the Roman Forum will help improve security. Proceeds will be used for further restoration projects.

Venice Considers Entry Toll

February 28 — Officials in Venice are considering charging tourists a per-person entry toll to help raise funds for needed repairs and maintenance of the lagoon city. About 20 million people visit Venice annually. The "Ecopass" requirement would apply only to those without hotel reservations.

Dollar Falls to Record Low Against Euro

February 27 — The euro is trading at over $1.50 against the dollar, a record low for the US currency that is increasing the cost of travel to Europe. The dollar has fallen 12 percent against the euro in the last year alone.

US Airways Jumps on Baggage Fee Bandwagon

February 26 — Passengers checking more than one bag on US Airways will be charged $25 for the second bag beginning May 5. The third through ninth bag continue to cost $80 apiece. United Airlines announced a similar move earlier this month. The new policy continues to allow carry-on bags and one free checked bag per passenger. The fee does not apply to preferred frequent fliers and those flying first class.

Air Travelers Could Benefit from Transatlantic Price War

February 26 — The Open Skies agreement will open up more markets to European and American airlines on March 30, ending decades-old limits on transatlantic flights. But will deregulation of the US-to-Europe routes result in a price war? Air France, Delta, Northwest, Continental, and Lufthansa are among the airlines who will begin flying new transatlantic routes in April, and a few discount start-up airlines are offering new flights from New York to the United Kingdom. As a result, some industry watchers are predicting cheaper transatlantic economy and business-class fares.

Rail Touts Its Carbon-Friendly Side

February 26 — A 30 percent increase in business travelers on Eurostar, the high-speed train between London and Paris, is being attributed to concerns about global warming. Speaking to a European business conference, Eurostar chief executive Richard Brow said worries about climate change are prompting businesses to seek more environmentally-friendly means of transportation. A record 8.26 million travelers used Eurostar in 2007, a 5.1 percent increase over 2006. According to Eurostar, traveling round-trip from London to Paris via Eurostar results in carbon dioxide emissions of 10.9 kilograms of per passenger, while traveling by air results in emissions of 122 kg per passenger.

Website Predicts International Airfares

February 21 — The website Farecast.com now offers airfare predictions for more than 87 European markets, including London's Heathrow and Gatwick airports, Rome, Paris, Amsterdam, Madrid, and Frankfurt. According to the website, airfares to popular European destinations this summer are trending 11 percent higher than in 2007. Its prediction of average fares from major U.S. cities to popular European destinations include Los Angeles to Paris, $1,150; New York's JFK to Frankfurt, $1,030; Chicago O'Hare to London Heathrow, $823; Dallas Ft. Worth to Amsterdam, $1,022; and Denver to Rome, $1,286. Farecast says its predictions are 74.5 percent accurate.

Delta to Add More International Flights

February 20 — Delta Airlines will expand its international flights this summer, with one extra weekly New York-Paris flight, along with an extra weekly flight from Atlanta to Venice, Italy; New York to Malaga, Spain; and New York to Cape Town, South Africa. A second flight will be added five times a week from Atlanta to Sao Paulo, Brazil. Delta is also adding service between New York and Lyon, France.

Irish Air Traffic Controllers May Strike

February 20 — Air traffic controllers in Ireland are threatening a one-day strike on Thursday, February 28 to protest overtime and hiring practices. If the strike happens, it could cancel about 450 flights, and would affect flights that pass across Irish airspace while traveling between the US and Europe. Unannounced work actions by the controllers have already disrupted some flights at Ireland's three airports over the past few weeks. Talks between the air traffic controllers' union and the government aviation authority are expected to begin on Monday.

Madrid-Barcelona Bullet Train Begins Service

February 20 — The high-speed AVE train between Madrid and Barcelona is finally up and running, cutting travel time between the two Spanish cities to a little over two and half hours. Planning for the train began nearly 20 years ago, but was delayed by construction issues. The train travels as fast as 186 miles per hour, with a round-trip ticket priced at €180.

Riots in Denmark; Suspects Held in Cartoonist Murder Plot

February 18 — Eight nights of rioting in Denmark have led to more than two dozen arrests amid vandalism to government buildings, schools, and cars. The rioters were mostly young immigrants. The unrest follows the re-publication of controversial political cartoons depicting the Prophet Muhammad with a bomb, and coincides with a new stop-and-search policy which allows Danish police to search people for weapons without cause. Also in Denmark, three people were arrested for allegedly plotting to murder the cartoonist who drew the satirical cartoon.

Mummies to Visit Italy's Iceman

February 19 — More than 70 mummies from Egypt, Asia, and South America will be on display from March through October, 2008 at the South Tirol Museum of Archeology in Bolzano, Italy, home to "Ötzi the Ice Man." Ötzi's 5,000-year-old body was found frozen in a glacier in 1991. "Mummies, the Dream of Eternal Life" will include mummies from the present day back to the very beginning of human existence.

Archeologists Disagree on Palatine Cave

February 15 — An underground grotto found in Rome may not be the Romulus Grotto after all. Archaeologists in November announced that the cave, discovered inside Palatine Hill, was likely the "Lupercale," a mythical place where the a she-wolf nursed Rome's founding brothers Romulus and Remus and where later Romans gathered to worship. Now a dissenting scientist says the grotto is simply a private monument to water nymphs.

Airlines To Refund Fuel Surcharges

February 15 — British Airways and Virgin Atlantic will refund nearly $200 million in fuel surcharges to airline passengers. The refund of £20 per roundtrip journey (about $39) is available to the 2.5 million US passengers who took long-haul flights with either of the two carriers between August 2004 and March 2006. US passengers can apply for the refund online at www.airpassengerrefund.com or by calling 1-877-625-9432.

Florence Considers Tram Line

February 14 — The people of Florence will vote this Sunday on whether or not to build a tram line through the city center. City officials have proposed the tram line as a way to reduce traffic and air pollution, but critics say it could actually damage the city's historic buildings and monuments. The tram line would run near the Baptistry and Duomo.

Berlin Plans Giant Ferris Wheel

February 14 — Berlin has announced it will build a giant Ferris wheel similar to the London Eye. The wheel will be over 600 feet tall — Europe's largest — and will cost over $166 million to build. Its 35 gondolas will carry 1,500 people at a time on a 35-minute ride.

Venice Pigeon-Feed Sellers Go to Court

February 11 — Venice's pigeon-feed vendors have gone to court to fight the city's new law banning them from St. Mark's Square. City officials are seeking an out-of-court settlement, offering to compensate the vendors for the value of their businesses. Venice has already banned people from feeding pigeons everywhere else in town, on the grounds that the pigeons are a health hazard and also pose a risk to historical monuments.

Parisian Air Traffic Controllers Strike

February 11 — Travelers are experiencing delays at Paris' Roissy/Charles de Gaulle airport and flight cancellations at Orly airport near Paris as the result of an air traffic controllers strike there. The French air traffic controllers' union says up to half of flights to and from those airports could be delayed or cancelled today and Friday; with about a third of all flights expected to be affected on Tuesday and Wednesday. The controllers are protesting a proposal to centralize all air traffic control at one airport.

EU, US Seek to Tighten Travel

February 11 — The 13 million Americans who travel to Europe each year will be fingerprinted at the European border if a proposal before the European Union is accepted by its parliament. The fingerprinting would start within a year. The proposal would also add satellite surveillance of European borders, and would add systems to limit travelers from overstaying their visas. The measures are targeted at reducing illegal immigration, EU officials say.

Meanwhile, the US government is asking the EU to provide more personal data on airline passengers, including those flying over but not landing in the US. It is also asking the EU to put armed air marshals on transatlantic flights, and has proposed requiring US visas for European visitors.

This spring the US plans to implement a permit system requiring Europeans to apply online for permission to enter the country before they can buy an airline ticket. The US already requires that fingerprints and photos of foreigners entering the country.

London's Camden Market Burns

February 10 — Two famous tourist attractions — London's Camden Market and its popular Hawley Arms pub — were damaged in a huge blaze there on February 9. More than 100 firefighters battled the fire, which apparently started in a market stall before spreading to nearby shops and apartments on Camden High Street. Visitors to the Camden area will find some roads, Underground, and train lines closed.

Delayed in 2007? You Probably Had Company

February 6 — More than one-quarter of all US domestic flights were delayed in 2007, the second-worst record since 2000. If you don't count cancellations, 2007 was actually the worst year on record for flight delays. In December alone more than one-third of all flights were either cancelled or arrived late. Analysts say the problem will only get worse, as airlines try to cut costs by using smaller planes with more booked seats.

Pack Light or Pay

February 4 — Taking a domestic United Airlines flight? Think twice before checking more than one bag — United has announced it will begin charging passengers $25 one-way for the second checked bag (even more for additional checked luggage). Travelers who belong to certain United frequent-flier programs are exempt, as are passengers with an international flight in their itinerary. United is presenting the second-bag fee as a way to keep ticket prices low. The company says second-bag fees and cost-savings from people bringing less luggage could total $100 million annually in new revenue. That's a lot of extra socks.

Should He Stay or Should He Go: Florence's David

February 4 — The Italian city of Florence is studying tourist congestion in its center, as its cultural chief continues to suggest moving Michelangelo's David to a site outside the city. His proposal would move the David from the Accademia museum (where it has been displayed since 1873) to the under-construction Maggio Fiorentino festival theater on the city's outskirts. But museum officials warn that the David is too fragile to move. A 2004 restoration found significant weakness and deterioration to the statue, which is now protected by a moving barrier of air.

Del Piombo on Exhibit in Rome

January 31 — The Palazzo Venezia in Rome is hosting an exhibit of paintings by Renaissance artist Sebstiano Del Piombo. The exhibit runs through May 18 and will then move to the Gemaldegalerie in Berlin, Germany from June 28 to September 28. A contemporary of Michelangelo and Raphael, Del Piombo is best known for his life-sized portraits such as Family of Saints (on loan from New York's Metropolitan Museum) and Portrait of Dorotea (on loan from Berlin). Missing from the exhibit is Del Piombo's Raising of Lazarus, which was deemed too fragile to move from London's National Gallery.

YHA to Close Some UK Hostels, Update Others

January 29 — The Youth Hostel Association has announced it will close 35 hotels in England and Wales but will modernize and renovate another 37 properties. Twelve of the updated hostels will reopen to the public this summer, including a hostel near London's St. Pancras station. The YHA will also open three brand-new hostels in 2009, with locations in central London, Eastbourne, and Sussex. Altogether the YHA manages a network of 200-some hostels.

Historic Ships Get Lottery Funds

January 25 — The famous Victorian tea clipper Cutty Sark and the 16th-century warship Mary Rose will benefit from £31 million in United Kingdom lottery funds. The Cutty Sark, damaged by fire last year while under restoration at a Greenwich dry dock, will receive £10 million. Another £21 million will go toward building a museum in Portsmouth around the Mary Rose, Henry VII's flagship.

Death Train Exhibit Open in Berlin

January 25 — A new exhibit at the Deutsch Bahn station at Potsdamer Platz in Berlin examines the role that the German state railway company played in the Holocaust. Deutsch Bahn's predecessor, Reichsbahn, transported over three million people to Nazi death camps, and was paid for each passenger over age four. Most of those transported later died in the camps. The exhibit, "Special Trains to Death," includes documents and letters, photographs of deported children, and statements from Holocaust survivors. After Berlin the exhibit will travel to train stations in Frankfurt, Munich, Halle, and Muenster.

EU Proposes Fingerprinting Visitors

January 25 — The top justice official for the European Union is proposing that all visitors to the EU be fingerprinted in an effort to secure borders and prevent illegal immigration, and could also require that they register online before visiting. Both measures are similar to steps being taken in the US, where most visitors from Europe are now fingerprinted and a proposal to require an electronic visa was announced recently by the US Homeland Security Department. The EU is also under pressure from the US to collect more data on airline passengers flying into member nations.

Ryanair Charges More for Baggage

January 24 — Ryanair is raising its fees to check baggage or to check in at the airport. Checking a bag online now costs £6 (nearly $12) for the first bag and £12 for each additional bag; checking a bag at the airport now costs £12 per bag. The discount airline has increased the cost of checking in at the airport to £3, up from £2. (Online check-in remains free). Ryanair continues to allow travelers only one piece of carry-on luggage.

Rising Sea Levels Threaten Giant's Causeway

January 22 — The National Trust — the government agency responsible for Great Britain's historic sites — is warning that rising sea levels could threaten the Giant's Causeway and other important coastal sites in Northern Ireland. According to a new report, the causeway, a geological marvel born in an ancient volcanic eruption, could be partly underwater by 2020.

Locals Only on New Venice Waterbus; Line #82 Renamed #2

January 21 — A new vaporetto line in Venice is intended only for residents subscribed to a CartaVenezia pass. The #3 line (blue) is intended to give locals a faster way to get around the city without jostling with tourists for space on the popular crowded waterbus routes. It links Piazzale Roma to San Marco every 20 minutes, making all stops in between.

The #82 vaporetto line — most frequently used by tourists — is being renamed simply the "#2" line (red) and will see some changes in stops and timetables. The #1 line (white) continues unchanged except for adding daily stops at the Rialto Market.

Pound Down Against Euro; Up Against Dollar

January 15 — The British pound has fallen to a new all-time low again the euro (£1 = €1.33). Meanwhile the pound remains strong against the dollar (£1 = $1.95). Both the Bank of England and the US Federal Reserve are poised to cut interest rates next month in separate efforts to boost retail spending and bolster flagging economies.

More Passengers Take Eurostar

January 13 — An estimated 8.26 million people used the high-speed Eurostar train service between London and Paris last year, an increase of sixteen percent over 2006. Eurostar attributes the increase in train passengers to airport congestion, flight delays, and its move to the more-convenient St. Pancras station in London.

Air Travel Update

January 10 — British Airways has announced it will start a new airline this summer. The airline, called OpenSkies, will fly from New York directly to Brussels or Paris. If successful the airline could expand to serve Boston, Washington, DC, and Philadelphia; and European destinations such as Madrid, Milan, Amsterdam, and Frankfurt.

A new report shows US planes are becoming more crowded than ever, carrying four percent more passengers than the year before. They're also running late more often: Over a quarter of planes don't arrive on time. Meanwhile, many domestic airlines are planning to further cut capacity in 2008, cramming more passengers onto less planes to cut costs.

Venice Is Not For the Birds

January 10 — Venice's city council has voted to ban birdseed vendors from St. Mark's Square, where they have historically sold pigeon food to tourists. It's already against the law to feed pigeons elsewhere in the city. The pigeons (and their poop) are blamed for destroying historical monuments and buildings, putting public health at risk, and general messiness.

Even Virtual Roads Lead to Rome

January 8 — A new exhibit at the Baths of Diocletian Museum in Rome allows you to take a virtual tour of the ancient Roman street known as Via Flaminia, built in the third century. Much like the popular online game "Second Life," museum visitors create avatars and then walk along the reconstructed street, exploring monuments and villas and meeting political figures such as Emperor Augustus along the way. Users can also switch to a virtual tour of Rome as it appears today.

UK Allows More Carry-Ons

January 7 — Airline passengers are now allowed to bring two pieces of carry-on luggage with them aboard flights from the UK's Heathrow, Manchester, Glasgow, and Edinburgh airports. But the one-carry-on restriction remains in force at Gatwick, Bristol, Liverpool, and several other UK airports. To make things even more confusing, some airlines, including Easyjet, are maintaining the one-bag rule, while others, such as Virgin Atlantic, are allowing two carry-ons...for first class passengers only. Travelers to the UK are encouraged to check individual airline and airport websites for specifics.

Smoking Ban Approved in Turkey

January 4 — Following the trend throughout Europe, the Turkish parliament has approved a ban on smoking in all enclosed public places. The law, which goes into effect in 18 months, bans smoking in restaurants, cafés, and nightclubs. It also applies to passenger train cars, outdoor stadiums, and taxis. Turkey has already made smoking illegal at schools, government offices, and hospitals, although enforcement has been spotty. About 40 percent of Turkish people smoke.

Chairlift Accident Results in One Death

January 3 — A German man died and several people were injured in a ski chairlift accident near Grindelwald, Switzerland. Several chairs carrying skiers crashed to the ground when a cable separated from the guide wheel atop a 46-foot-tall support tower during windy conditions. Another 75 people were evacuated from the chairlift, located on the Kleine-Scheidegg pass.

British Airports Avert Strikes

January 3 — British airport workers and management have reached an agreement on pensions, averting strikes planned for January 7, 14, and 17. The strikes would have affected Heathrow, Gatwick, Edinburgh, Stansted, Glasgow, Aberdeen, and Southampton airports.

Milan Charges Cars for Polluting

January 2 — Milan, Italy has become that country's first city to charge a pollution tax to vehicles entering the city center. The Milan Ecopass tax varies by vehicle type depending on how much pollution it emits and ranges from €2 to €10 a day. Drivers neglecting to pay the tax can be fined €80.

Lithium Batteries Restricted in Checked Bags

January 2 — Beginning January 1, US airline passengers are no longer allowed to pack loose lithium batteries in their checked luggage. You are allowed to carry two spare rechargeable lithium batteries in your carry-on, but the batteries must be in a plastic zip-lock bag or in their original packaging. Lithium batteries already installed in cameras, laptops, or MP3 players are not affected by the new rule, which is intended to decrease the risk of fire from overheated lithium batteries.

Best and Worst of European Airports

December 28 — Three European airports are named on the World Airport Awards list of the top 10 airports in the world for 2007: Munich at number 4, Zurich at number 6, Amsterdam at number 7 and Madrid Barajas at number 10. As for Europe's worst airports, unofficial surveys consistently name London's Heathrow airport, with Paris' Charles de Gaulle a close runner-up. Both are cited for delayed flights, long security and check-in lines, general congestion, and lack of amenities. Also noted for its congestion and poor customer service: Rome's Leonardo da Vinci airport.

Hungarian and German Rail Strike Updates

December 20 — A strike by rail workers in Hungary ended Tuesday after failing to stop legislation to privatize health insurance. In Germany, train drivers plan to strike beginning January 7 in a dispute over wages. A similar strike there last month caused disruptions to commuter and regional train service.

Smoking Ban Extends to French Cafés

December 20 — Beginning January 1, the French ban on smoking in public places will be extended to cafés, bars, restaurants, hotels, nightclubs. The ban is already in effect in school, offices, and hospitals. Smoking will still be allowed in outdoor seating areas. Some question whether the ban will spell the end of France's café society.

Frankfurt Airport to Add Runway and Third Terminal

December 20 — The international airport in Frankfurt, Germany will add a fourth runway and a third terminal by 2011. Frankfurt is Europe's third busiest airport — the two busiest are Heathrow in London and Charles de Gaulle in Paris.

Strike Report: Hungarian and German Rail; Virgin Atlantic Air

December 20 — A strike by rail workers in Hungary ended Tuesday after failing to stop legislation to privatize health insurance. In Germany, train drivers plan to strike beginning January 7 in a dispute over wages. A similar strike there last month caused disruptions to commuter and regional train service. And the union representing Virgin Atlantic cabin crews plans to strike January 9-10 and January 16-17, also in a disagreement over wages.

Airline Expansions Announced

December 17 — Discount airlines EasyJet and Ryanair are announcing major expansions. EasyJet will acquire GB Airways and expand its number of flights operating from England's Manchester and Liverpool airports in the coming year. And Ryanair has announced plans to double its fleet of planes and add 50 new routes by 2012, adding service to France, Germany, Italy, and Romania.

Pompeii Frescoes on Display in Rome

December 19 — "Pompeii Red," a special exhibit of restored frescoes from Pompeii and Herculaneum, has opened at the National Museum in Rome. Many of the frescoes have been in storage at Naples' Archeological Museum for years. Some of the frescoes were discovered years ago; others are more recent discoveries including an entire room from a Pompeii home. The exhibit ends March 20.

Strike Affects Hungarian Rail

December 16 — More than half of trains in Hungary aren't running today as rail workers there began an unlimited strike. Joining in the strike are thousands of teachers and health workers and some bus drivers, and a limited strike is planned at Budapest's Ferihegy Airport. The workers are protesting a government plan to privatize the country's health system and cut some pensions.

Leonardo's Drawings at Milan's Sforza Castle

December 12 — The 12th-century Sforza Castle in Milan, Italy is hosting a special exhibit of Leonardo da Vinci's anatomical drawings. The exhibit includes Leonardo's many sketches of the human form, animals — especially horses — and several editions of his Treatise on Painting. The castle is also home to a fascinating Museum of Ancient Art.

Italian Trucks Rolling Again

December 12 — A three-day strike by Italian truck drivers ended today, after causing food and gas shortages across the country. The strike also disrupted traffic as truckers used their big rigs to block access to major roads, ports, and border crossings. The truckers are protesting high fuel prices.

Augustus Rooms to Open in March

December 12 — Visitors to Rome, Italy this spring will be able to visit four newly restored rooms in a house from the era of Emperor Augustus. The rooms, with colorful frescoes, were discovered near Augustus' palace on Palatine Hill in the 1970s, but until now have been closed to the public. Admission to the Augustus Rooms will be included in the same ticket that covers entry to the Roman Forum, Colosseum, and Palatine Hill.

JFK Airport: No (More) Flights for You

December 11 — A federal plan to cut the number of flights landing and taking off at JFK Airport near New York is intended to reduce delays and missed connections at the increasingly busy airport. The move could mean fewer flights available at JFK, and could shift more flights to La Guardia and Newark Liberty airports.

Airlines Try In-Flight Internet Access

December 10 — JetBlue Airways next week will begin testing its free e-mail and instant messaging service for passengers. American Airlines, Alaska Airlines, and Virgin America intend to begin offering pay Internet access (about $10/flight) beginning in 2008. European airlines including Air France, BMI, and Ryanair are also testing in-flight Internet services. Some of the services work with passengers' own laptops or cell phones, while others use seat-back computer screens.

Mold Could Damage Cave Paintings

December 9 — Scientists are scrambling to figure out why mold is spreading in caves holding the France's 15,000-year-old Lascaux paintings. Possible culprits range from global warming to a faulty climate-control system. The cave will be closed for several months while the paintings are treated with a fungicide. The public has not been allowed entry to the cave since 1963 (tourists can instead visit a replica opened in 1983).

More Strikes in France

December 7 — Several unions representing French rail workers plan a 36-hour strike to begin at 8 p.m. on December 11, and could be joined on December 12 by bus and metro workers. Similar strikes last month brought public transportation in Paris to a standstill. Negotiations are continuing between the unions and the government, which wants to reform the retirement system.

You Too Can Be a Dancing Queen

December 6 — The new ABBA museum in Stockholm, Sweden, expected to open in June 2009, will include a studio where Abba fans can record themselves belting out hits from the '70s disco band. The three-story museum will display musical instruments and clothing donated by ABBA's four members, and will also include a dance floor.

ETA Attacks Lead to Madrid Demonstrations

December 5 — Thousands of people demonstrated in Madrid, Spain on Tuesday, protesting the deaths of two police officers there. The policemen died after being shot by suspected members of the Basque separatist group, ETA, while on a mission in a French village. ETA supports the formation of an independent Basque nation encompassing parts of north Spain and southwest France.

No Tunnel at Stonehenge

December 6 — A tunnel that would have rerouted a highway to pass beneath the monument at Stonehenge has been shelved by the British government. Officials balked at the tunnel's $1.13 billion cost, but the decision concerns those who fear the site will continue to deteriorate if something isn't done about the traffic. Traffic problems at Stonehenge, and improving the visitors center there, have been the subject of debate for nearly a decade.

Chalk Sketch is Michelangelo's

December 6 — A sketch found in the offices at St. Peter's Basilica in Rome is probably one of Michelangelo's last. The sketch will be unveiled on December 10. The chalk sketch of the dome of the basilica was created in 1563, the year before Michelangelo died. A note from stonecutter supervisor is written on the back, describing problems with transporting the stone.

Tourists Revolt in Macau, China

December 5 — About 100 tourists staged a revolt in Macau today, angry that they weren't allowed back on the bus after an over-long visit to a swanky shopping district. Riot police responded and four tourists were held for questioning. The tourists, from mainland China, said that their tour guides were refusing to take them to historical sights, instead forcing them to shop. Unfortunately for the Chinese, there are no Rick Steves tours outside of Europe.

German Rail Workers Agree to Deal

December 4 — The union representing train drivers in Germany has reached an agreement with the rail operator Deutsche Bahn, ending a dispute over pay that led to several strikes and disrupted travel here last month. The agreement won't be finalized until January but is expected to be approved by union members.

Berlin's Tempelhof Airport to Close in '08, Tegel to Follow in 2011

December 4 — Berlin's historic Tempelhof Airport will close to passengers in 2008 following a ruling by Germany's superior court. Several small airlines which use Tempelhof had protested the closure, which is planned as part of expansion at Berlin's Schönefeld airport. Schönefeld is expected to become the city's new hub by 2011, when Berlin's Tegel Airport is slated to close.

Greek Airline Faces Shutdown

December 3 — The Greek government is considering shutting down struggling Olympic Airlines, the country's national carrier, amid allegations of illegal financial subsidies. Based in Athens, Olympic flies to 35 domestic airports and 39 airports throughout the world.

Heathrow's Terminal 5 to Help Alleviate Crowding

December 2 — The new Terminal 5 at London's Heathrow Airport, opening March 27, is intended to alleviate congestion at one of the world's busiest airports. It is expected to serve 30 million passengers a year, with 60 flight gates and 29 security scanners. Inside the two-level terminal are a number of upscale stores and restaurants. The new terminal was designed by British architect Richard Rogers, who also designed the Pompidou Center in Paris. Opening of Terminal 5 coincides with an "open skies" agreement that will allow more airlines to fly between the US and Europe.

City to Mountain Funicular Opens in Innsbruck

December 1 — The new Nordkettenbahn funicular is up and running in Innsbruck, Austria, taking people from the city center to the peak of Hafelekar Mountain in about 25 minutes. The ultra-modern funicular (called the Hungerburgbahn) leaves directly from downtown, then links to a gondola that leads up the mountains — linking the city center to the mountain ski area. For details see www.nordpark.com.

Swedes to Build Huge Moose

November 29 — A wooden moose so big that its feet will be in two different counties (Vasterbotten and Norbotten) is about to go up in northern Sweden, about 540 miles north of Stockholm. The moose, about 150 feet tall and 155 feet long, is being built at a cost of $9.4 million in hopes of drawing tourists to the area. It will hold a restaurant, theater, and, of course, a gift shop.

Rome Taxi Strike Continues

November 29 — A two-day taxi strike in Rome has tied up traffic throughout the capital city. Taxi drivers blocked traffic in central piazzas and refused to pick up travelers at Leonardo da Vinci airport and train stations. Drivers are protesting a city plan to issue more taxi licenses. Nationwide strikes by rail workers and bus drivers may follow on Friday.

Truckload of Beer Missing in Ireland

November 29 — Somewhere in Ireland, a really big party is going on. Police in Dublin are looking for a thief who stole 450 full beer kegs from the landmark Guinness brewery on Wednesday. The thief drove off with a truck loaded with 180 kegs of Guinness stout, 180 kegs of Budweiser, and 90 kegs of Carlsberg, together valued at over $230,000.

San Spirito Church Reopens in Florence

November 29 — The 15th-century San Spirito Church in Florence, Italy has reopened after a two-year closure. The church, designed by Brunelleschi, holds several important pieces of art, including a crucifix by Michelangelo and a Madonna by Filippino Lippi. The church was closed by vandalism and will now be staffed by 24-hour guards.

Riots in Paris Suburbs; Tourist Zones Unaffected

November 27 — Two nights of riots in suburbs outside Paris, France have injured nearly 80 police officers, as rampaging youth looted shops, fired guns at police, and set fire to cars, a library, and a police station. The riots started in Villiers-le-Bel, north of Paris, following the deaths of two teenagers whose motorcycle collided with a police car. Tourist zones within central Paris have not been affected by the unrest.

Third Airport Planned for Rome

November 27 — A third commercial airport is being planned near Rome, Italy in the suburb of Viterbo, about 62 miles north of the capital city. Rome's Leonardo da Vinci airport, in Fiumicino, is nearing capacity, and the nearby Ciampino airport has become increasingly popular among discount airlines. No date was given for when the Viterbo airport might open.

French Trains Back on Track

November 23 — Train service is nearly back to normal in France, following a strike which lasted for nine long days. Nearly all Metro trains are running, as are most high-speed trains from Paris, and about three-quarters of regional trains and buses. The union representing rail workers has agreed to talks with the French government but is threatening it could resume the strike in mid-December.

The rail strike was worsened on Wednesday when saboteurs attacked the high-speed rail system, damaging several lines. French teachers, hospital staff, postal workers, and utility workers held a 24-hour strike on Tuesday to protest poor pay; and university students continue to demonstrate.

More Money Needed For Cutty Sark

November 21 — Planned restoration of the historic tea clipper Cutty Sark, in dry dock in Greenwich, England, may not continue without an infusion of funds, officials said today. About one-quarter of the £25 million restoration project was complete six months ago when a fire severely damaged the 138-year-old ship. An extra £9 million is needed to repair the fire damage and complete the restoration. Before the fire, plans had called for the ship to be open to the public by November 2009; now that date has been pushed back to 2010. Investigators have not said what caused the fire.

Airlines Lose More Baggage

November 20 — The argument for carrying on your luggage was bolstered by a recent report, which found that one in 138 checked bags was lost by U.S. airlines during the first nine months of 2007 (compared to one in 155 bags in 2006). Almost all bags eventually find their owners, but that doesn't always make up for the headache of arriving at your destination without your clothes and toothbrush.

Archaeologists Find Romulus' Grotto

November 20 — Archaeologists have announced the discovery of an ancient, underground grotto linked to Rome's mythical founder, Romulus. According to legend, Romulus and his twin brother Remus were nursed by a she-wolf in a cave, which later was turned into a shrine by the Emperor Augustus. The vaulted grotto, discovered inside Palatine Hill, is adorned with mosaics and an image of a wolf. Archaeologists believe this may be the grotto described in antiquity as the "Lupercale," a place of worship. The discovery comes as Rome plans to reopen portions of Augustus' palace this spring.

France Transportation Strike Continues

November 19 — It's day six for a transportation strike in Paris, but there are some positive signs. More buses and trains are running today than at the beginning of the strike, and the rail unions have agreed to meet with negotiators on Wednesday. About 20 percent of Paris Metro trains, 30 percent of suburban trains, and 40 percent of buses are operating. Less than half of the 700 high-speed TGV trains are running (three-quarters of the Thalys trains to Belgium but only one-third of trains to Germany and Switzerland). A separate strike is planned Tuesday by government employees at hospitals, schools, post offices, and utilities.

Early Snow Kick-Starts Alpine Ski Season

November 19 — Last ski season was all about record low snowfall; this year Alpine ski resorts are rejoicing and opening early following unprecedented levels of snowfall this month. Some places have received more snow this November than they have since the 1950s. Major storms last week dumped more than three feet of snow in parts of the alps and ski resorts are now open in Austria, Switzerland, France, and Italy.

Travelodge Expands in Spain

November 19 — The Travelodge chain plans to bring 100 budget hotels to Spain by the year 2020, starting in Barcelona, Madrid, and Valencia. The company is also expanding in the United Kingdom, where it has plans to add 40 new hotels over the same time period, focusing on the London area, Wales, and Scotland.

Jules Verne Restaurant to Re-Open at Eiffel Tower

November 18 — The made-over Jules Verne Restaurant, on the second level of the Eiffel Tower in Paris, reopens to the public on November 22. The upscale — and spendy — restaurant is being overseen by famous French chef Alain Ducasse.

Naples Bans Outdoor Smoking

November 18 — Indoor smoking in public places (restaurants, offices, government buildings) is already banned in Naples, Italy; now the city is banning smoking outdoors — in public parks and at cultural events — if children or pregnant women are present. Fines for violators range from $40 to $730.

London: Tutkanhamen on Display; Transport Museum Reopens

November 14 — A new exhibit, "Tutankhamun and the Golden Age of the Pharaohs," is now open at London's O2 Centre. Ticket prices are steep: £20 for adults (£15 on weekdays). King Tut's famous golden mask is not part of the exhibit, but visitors will see many other artifacts such as a gilded coffin, a decorative wooden chest, model boats, carved funerary figures, and a ceremonial shield.

The refurbished London Transport Museum reopens November 22 after a two-year renovation. The museum traces the social history of transportation, from the 1820s, when the London got its first buses, through the construction and expansion of the Metropolitan railway (now known as the Tube), and explores ways we might get around 50-some years in the future.

German Train Drivers Strike

November 14 — German freight train drivers walk off the job at noon today and will be joined by commuter and long-distance passenger train drivers tomorrow. The strike is expected to last for three days. Deutsche Bahn has said it will try to keep about 75 percent of long-distance passenger trains operating and about half of regional trains, with cancellations heaviest in eastern Germany. The rail company is bringing in buses to replace cancelled commuter trains. In Berlin, about a quarter of local trains are expected to run; in Munich about a third. Deutsche Bahn is posting information on its website.

France Grinds to a Halt

November 14 — Transport and utility workers in France have said the strike there will last at least through Thursday as they try to pressure the government into maintaining retirement benefits. Travelers to France are finding it difficult to link between main airports and train stations — buses, regional trains, and commuter trains are all affected. The London-Paris Eurostar, however, is running on schedule. Rail companies are posting updates on their websites: Thalys, SNCF (in French only), Paris Metro/RER (in French only), and Eurostar.

France Braces for Strike

November 13 — Widespread disruptions in public transportation and other services will begin Tuesday evening in France, where a rail strike is set to start at 8 p.m. Bus and Metro workers will walk off the job Wednesday.

Only about 90 of France's 700 high-speed trains will continue to run, along with about one in 10 buses and commuter trains.

International Thalys trains from Paris to Brussels, Amsterdam, and Cologne will be affected. All Elipsos/Talgo night trains (overnight between Paris and Barcelona or Madrid and between Barcelona and Milan or Zurich) have been cancelled, as well as Artesia night trains and Artesia day trains between Paris and Italy. Cancellation dates vary by route within the period of November 13–16.

The strike coincides with the opening of London's St. Pancras station, the new terminus for the Eurostar, where cross-channel service from London to Paris is planned to begin on Wednesday. Eurostar says it plans to use British crews to keep the service running throughout the strike, but is offering some ticketed passengers a free day-of-travel change.

The strike is expected to last at least several days. University and postal workers have announced they will show support by striking on November 20 and court workers on November 29.

Wheel Starts Turning in Belfast

November 9 — A 196-foot-high Ferris wheel, similar to the London Eye, has opened in Belfast, Ireland. The Wheel of Belfast stands near the City Hall and is expected to draw large crowds of tourists throughout 2008. Fifteen-minute trips cost £6 ($12.60) per person.

Paris Metro and Bus Workers to Join Striking French Railworkers

November 8 — Travelers in Paris and throughout France this week can expect significant travel disruptions. Paris Metro and bus workers have announced they will join six French rail unions in a strike to protest government pension reforms. The strike is set to begin Tuesday evening and — like last month's strike — could last several days.

Websites Help Air Travelers Stretch Out

November 8 — Three websites can help air travelers find seats with more legroom. Seatguru.com covers nearly 50 airlines with charts that compare seat size in first class and economy sections, and identifies seats that may have less legroom or are undesirable due to their proximity to bathrooms or galleys. Airlinequality.com rates seats on more than 325 long-haul airlines. Flatseats.com compares the fold-down "beds" in first-class and business-class.

Restored St. Pancras Terminal Opens in London; Eurostar Service to Begin

November 6 — The Victorian-age St. Pancras Terminal in London has been formally reopened by Queen Elizabeth II after a $1.68 billion restoration. Eurostar service to Paris and Brussels from the terminal will begin this Thursday, November 14. The restored terminal, which was the world's largest enclosed space when it was completed in 1868, now holds an upscale shopping mall, restaurants, the world's longest champagne bar, and a soon-to-come luxury hotel. High-speed rail service from St. Pancras to Kent begins in 2010, and to Stratford in 2012.

More Flights from US West Coast to Europe

November 6 — Aer Lingus will begin offering four weekly flights from San Francisco to Dublin, Ireland next week, with daily service beginning in March. It will soon also offer flights to Dublin from Orlando and Washington, D.C. Lufthansa Airlines will begin non-stop flights in March between Seattle and Frankfurt, Germany. The new flights are some of the first to be offered through a new "Open Skies" agreement that opens up more American cities to international carriers.

Some International Trains Cancelled in Anticipation of French Rail Strike

November 6 — Several international train departures have already been cancelled in anticipation of the announced November 13 rail strike in France. Cancelled are all Elipsos/Talgo Night trains (overnight between Paris and Barcelona or Madrid and between Barcelona and Milan or Zurich) as well as Artesia Night and Artesia Day (Paris-Italy). Cancellation dates vary by route within the period of November 13–16.

British Airlines to End Carry-On Restrictions

November 2 — British Airlines has announced it will soon ease restrictions on carry-on items. The security restrictions, which limit passengers to one carry-on bag, have been blamed for increased delays at some of the world's busiest airports, including Britain's Heathrow. BA says it will relax the restrictions this year as it phases in new x-ray equipment.

Senate Report Says U.S. Government Overcharging for Passports

November 2 — A congressional investigation found that Americans are being overcharged for their passports, which now cost $97 (plus an extra $60 for expedited service and $15 for photos). The investigation looked at a $30 portion of the processing fee, earmarked for the cost of clerks who examine and accept passport applications at post offices, passport offices, libraries, and courthouses. It found that the actual processing cost was closer to $13 to $16. The report estimated the government overcharged travelers $113 million in 2002 alone. The report comes on top of record passport backlogs over the summer. More than 500,000 people waited more than three months for their passports, and countless travel plans were disrupted.

More Strikes Loom in France, Britain

October 31 — French transport and energy workers have announced they will strike across the country on November 13. French hospital workers, teachers, and other government workers are also planning strikes in late November. The strikes are in protest of French President Sarkozy's planned reforms to government salaries and pensions. Travel across France was disrupted for several days earlier this month due to a nationwide rail worker strike and an Air France strike. Because most railways aim to preserve "essential service" even during strikes, sporadic trains are likely to run on the main lines and the few remaining station personnel can tell you the expected schedule. 

In the United Kingdom, security, maintenance, firefighting, and administrative workers at seven airports — Heathrow, Gatwick, Stansted, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen, and Southhampton — are threatening to strike over cuts to retirement benefits for new workers. The strike could come during the busy holiday season.

Restored Florence Baptistery Doors Displayed in New York

October 30 — Several panels of the 15th-century Florence Baptistery doors — Ghiberti's Gates of Paradise panels — are on display at the Metropolitan Museum in New York through January. Having already traveled to Atlanta and Chicago, the doors will make a West Coast appearance at Seattle's Art Museum (Jan-April), before being returned to the Duomo Museum in Florence. This is the first and likely only time the panels will be displayed in the United States. The panels, commissioned in 1425 and considered an icon of Renaissance art, recently underwent nearly 25 years of restoration.

Air France Strike Disrupts Flights

October 29 — A five-day strike by Air France cabin crews is expected to end today, after causing major headaches for air travelers in France over the weekend. More than one-third of Saturday and Sunday's flights were cancelled — mostly long-distance flights out of Paris. Affected Air France passengers were given vouchers for flights on other airlines or train travel. Those who could not reschedule were allowed to postpone their flights or were reimbursed for the cost of their cancelled ticket.

SAS Grounds Q400 Turboprops

October 29 — Scandinavian Airlines has announced it will cease flying its 27 Bombardier Q400 turboprops due to safety concerns. Cancellations and disruptions are expected on flights between Scandinavian hubs and the United Kingdom, Germany, and Poland. Landing gear failures on two of the Canadian-made planes in September led to groundings and safety inspections; a third crash-landing this weekend in Denmark prompted SAS to pull the Q400s from its fleet permanently. No-one was injured in the three crashes. In the United States, Seattle's Horizon Air — a division of Alaska Airlines — says it will continue flying its Q400 turboprops.

Galleries Receive Major Donation

October 29 — The Tate Museum and National Gallery in London have received a donated art collection valued at over £100 million ($205 million USD). The paintings were left to the museums in the will of British art collector Simon Sainsbury. A special exhibit at the Tate in summer 2008 will show all 18 paintings, including works by Monet and Gaugin; then the pieces will be divided between the two museums.

Train Service Back to Normal in France

October 20 — Train service in France is back to normal after a two-day strike by transportation workers protesting proposed cuts to government pension plans. At the height of the strike, a few departures of the London-to-Paris Eurostar were cancelled as were hundreds of regional SNCF and high-speed TGV trains, buses and trams were affected in nearly 30 French cities, and fewer than one in 10 Metro trains ran in Paris.

Strikes Disrupt Travel in Germany, Greece

October 19 — A nine-hour strike by German rail workers seeking a pay increase affected commuters and travelers in Munich and Frankfurt on Thursday. In Greece, fuel truck drivers ended their two-day strike on Friday after blocking parts of that country's busiest highway. The truckers are protesting changes that would increase competition among truckers.

Trajan's Market Now Open in Rome

October 18 — After a two-and-a-half year closure, Trajan's Market in Rome has reopened to the public, as has the new Museum of the Imperial Forum. The new museum contains artifacts including a giant hand from the Colossus, a huge statue of Rome's first emperor. Computers in the museum show how the Forum was built and rebuilt from 46 B.C. to A.D. 113 as different emperors took power.

Five Held in Monet Vandalism

October 10 — Four men and a woman have been arrested after breaking into the Musee d'Orsay in Paris on Oct 13 and damaging a Monet painting. The group — apparently drunk — were caught on security cameras forcing open a door. One seems to have punched Monet's The Bridge at Argenteuil, leaving the 1874 painting with a four-inch long gash. This is the latest in a string of thefts and incidents of vandalism raising concerns about the security of French museums, including the theft of a Monet painting in August from the Nice Museum of Fine Arts.

ETA Suspected in Bilbao Bombing

October 9 — A bodyguard was injured today when a car bomb exploded in Bilbao, Spain in what may be a renewal of the violent movement for Basque independence. The Spanish government blamed the bombing on the Basque separatist group ETA, although ETA has not issued a statement. Twenty-three ETA political leaders were arrested last week. More than 800 people have died in the 40-year conflict. A period of peace ended in December when an ETA bomb went off at the Madrid airport, killing two.

Acropolis Antiquities Begin Move to New Home

October 9 — Curators this weekend will begin the 10-month process to move more than 4,000 ancient artifacts and statues from the Acropolis in Greece into a new, modern museum at the base of the hill. Greek officials hope their efforts to safeguard the ancient works from the elements will increase pressure on London's British Museum to return a set of sculptures originally located in the Parthenon, now known as the Elgin marbles. The long-delayed Acropolis Museum is expected to open to the public in fall 2008.

Airlines to Provide Wi-Fi Access

October 8 — Several airlines are rolling out plans to make Wi-Fi Internet access available to air passengers while in flight. American Airlines will test its first Wi-Fi equipped plane in December and hopes to outfit all its 767s by 2008. Virgin Atlantic and Alaska Airlines are also working to equip their planes with Wi-Fi next year. Virgin Atlantic's Wi-Fi would be integrated into seat-back entertainment systems, so passengers wouldn't even need to bring their own computer to access the Internet. A recent survey found that nearly two-thirds of airline passengers want to be able to surf the Internet and check email while flying, and many said they would choose an airline based on whether or not Wi-Fi is available.

Arrests in Copenhagen Clash

October 7 — Nearly 440 people were held overnight in Copenhagen, Denmark following a riot protesting the closure of a Norrebro youth center. Several thousand protestors took part in the demonstration, which quickly escalated when some protestors began setting fires and climbing on police cars. After occupying the building since the 1970s, squatters were evicted from the youth center in March 2007. The contested building was later demolished.

Turkish Women Protest Constitutional Changes

October 2 — A new constitution in Turkey is drawing fire from more than 80 women's groups there, who say it will take away women's rights. The draft removes current constitutional language that calls for gender equality, replacing it with a statement that "women are a vulnerable group needing protecting." The new constitution is being written to replace the current version, which was adopted in 1980 after a military coup.

Contested Art Returns to Rome

October 2 — After years of wrangling, a small group of contested antiquities were returned to Rome today from the L.A.'s John Paul Getty Museum. These were the first of more about 40 art treasures, valued at $425 million, that the Getty has agreed to return to Rome. Most pieces will be sent to Rome this year, while a fifth-century B.C. statue of Aphrodite will be returned in 2010. No agreement has been reached on the most hotly disputed piece, a third-century B.C. bronze athlete.

Two Arrested in Suspected Embassy Plot

October 2 — Two men have been arrested on suspicion of trying to bomb the US embassy in Vienna. A 42-year-old Bosnian man was arrested Monday after his explosive-filled backpack set off metal detectors when he tried to enter the embassy. Police took a second Bosnian man into custody the following day. The backpack was said to contain nails, grenades, and Islamic literature.

Big Ben's Back

October 1 — After seven weeks of silence, Londoners can again set their watches to the familiar "bong" of Big Ben. The world-famous 13-ton bell in the Houses of Parliament clock tower tolled the noon hour today, after being out of commission for over a month due to maintenance. Big Ben turns 150 in 2009.

BBC Buys Lonely Planet

October 1 — BBC Worldwide, the commercial parent of BBC television, has bought a 75 percent stake in the prolific travel guide publisher, Lonely Planet. Lonely Planet founders Tony and Maureen Wheeler will keep a 25 percent stake in the company, which publishes more than 500 books, and also produces travel-related TV shows.

Amsterdam's Red Light District to Shrink

September 21 — In an effort to cut down on crime, the city of Amsterdam has announced a sweeping move to buy 18 buildings in its red light district, and convert them to retail shops and apartments. This will effectively shut down about 1/3 of the neighborhood's brothels. A longtime tourist attraction, Amsterdam's Wallen district has become a magnet for human trafficking and money laundering. According to mayor Job Cohen, Amsterdam has no intention of outlawing prostitution, only its "underlying criminality."   

Marbles in Living Color

September 19 — Visitors to the British Museum can now enjoy seeing what the Parthenon's Elgin Marbles looked like originally — in vivid color. The museum has added a permanent video presentation beside the celebrated Marbles, which recreates the complete Greek metope (including parts not in the museum) using computer graphics. Relying on tiny bits of pigment found on the actual sculptures, archaeologists have created a work that is all the more dramatic when seen in full color. To eyes used to seeing classical sculptures in their pure paleness, these representations might border on kitch. But that’s how the Greeks really made them.  

Dollar Hits Record Low

September 13 — The euro climbed in value to over $1.39 this week, setting a record against the U.S. dollar. This means that travelers this fall will be paying about 9% more for meals and hotels in Europe than last year (12% more than in fall 2005). Budget-minded travelers have three basic choices: (1) stay home and feel bad; (2) prepare to spend about 10% more in Europe than they planned; (3) use smart budget travel skills to shave 10% off of their per-day spending in Europe.

Taormina Cracks Down on Tacky Tourists

August 31 — Inspired by Venice's summer-long campaign to class-up St. Mark's Square, the Sicilian town of Taormina has announced a similar crack-down on tacky tourists. People wandering through historic sites while bare-chested, snacking or littering will now be fined from 25 to 500 euros. Taormina's deputy mayor complained that the city's symbol, a fountain of a female centaur, had been turned into "an open-air dining room" for people with snacks and drinks. The maximum fine will be reserved for what the mayor termed "full-scale visual vandalism.

Wildfires in Greece

August 28 — High temperatures, strong winds and arson have combined to create deadly wildfires across Greece this past week, killing more than 60 people. The southern and western Peloponnese has been especially hard hit, including areas surrounding Olympía, Kalamáta, Spárta and the Máni Peninsula. (Rick Steves' Sept. 1 and Sept. 3 "Athens and the Heart of Greece" tour departures are being rerouted away from these areas.) Although many fires are still burning, news reports indicate that towns and villages are no longer in immediate danger.

Spanish TV Cuts Out the Bull

August 24 — In the interest of reducing kids' exposure to violence, Spain's state-run TV network will no longer broadcast live bullfights. Although the sport can still be viewed on pay TV stations, many locals (not to mention travelers sitting in hotels and bars) will miss out on a strangely riveting form of television. Love it or hate it, it's the end of an era.

More Trains Go Smokeless

August 14 — Starting September 1, Europe’s railway smoking ban will extend to all trains in Germany, Austria, and Poland (although in Poland, smoking is still permitted on express, fast, and local trains). Smoking is currently banned aboard trains in Great Britain, Ireland, Benelux, France, Italy, Switzerland, Norway, and Sweden. Nostalgia-seekers can still find smoking cars on some trains in Spain (trips longer than 5 hours), Denmark, and Finland.

Big Ben Goes Silent

August 10 — Visitors to London during the next six weeks will miss that classic London moment: the chiming of Big Ben. For the first time since 1956, the towering clock will be silenced for a thorough mechanical refurbishing, in preparation for its 150th anniversary in 2009. But passers-by can still rely on Big Ben for the correct time — an electric back-up motor will keep the hands turning as always.

Monet and Other Paintings Stolen in Nice

August 6 — Masked thieves recently stole four paintings at the Musée des Beaux-Arts, the fine arts museum of Nice, France. A Monet painting, two works by Flemish artist Jan Brueghel and a painting by landscape painter Alfred Sisley were taken during the daylight robbery.

Easyjet Charging for Check-in Luggage

August 3 — Budget airline Easyjet, which previously allowed travelers one checked bag at no cost, now charges £2 per bag, with a weight limit of 20 kg (44 pounds) each. Carry-on luggage is still free.

Tweaks to Carry-On Rules

August 3 — The TSA has long required travelers to remove laptop computers from carry-on bags for inspection. Now other large electronic devices — such as "home size" DVD players, consoles for Xbox and PlayStation games and larger-size video cameras — must also be removed from carry-on bags for inspection by screeners. The good news is that travelers may now carry more than three ounces of breast milk aboard flights, provided it is declared at each security checkpoint.

Trains Can Sometimes Be the Better Option

July 31 — In an era of low-cost airfares, French Rail's new TGV bullet train service can be more convenient than flying, taking you quickly from town center to town center. Each year the TGV network snakes out further from Paris — now linking it with 20 French cities and 10 German cities. Zipping at up to 200 miles per hour, these trains cut the journey time by up to half compared to regular trains. And on November 14 the new Eurostar station will open at London's St. Pancras Station kicking off a new era in which the trip between London and Paris will be 20 minutes shorter — down to one hour and 51 minutes (plus 30 minutes for security check-in).

British Army Leaves Northern Ireland

July 31 — After reducing their presence in the region for the past 10 years, the British Army is ending its campaign — a strong symbol of how far Ireland has come in the peace process. Since May, Northern Ireland has been governed by a power-sharing agreement between Protestant loyalists and Catholic nationalists, rather than being ruled by London, as it was in the past.

Russians Travel in Increasing Numbers

July 31 — You'll see Russian tourists all over Europe these days — especially if you're staying in the places where filthy-rich travelers stay. Russian elites are not only buying up villas in choice parts of Europe, they're vacationing in greater numbers than ever too. While top destinations are Turkey and Finland, they're flocking to the French Riviera (where some mayors have moved to stop Russian purchases of land) and Russians actually spent more nights in Baden-Baden (the German spa town) than Americans did last year. What's with all the smarmy old men with the spiky-heeled babes? Europeans aren't asking questions...just banking the black money. Get used to seeing more Cyrillic than ever in your European travels.

Forest Fires Suffocate Greece

July 16 — More than 400 forest fires have broken out in Greece since June's record-breaking heat wave. The most recent, the Parnitha blaze outside the Greek capital of Athens, has burned more than 11,000 acres of protected forestland, closed a major highway, and caused evacuations. The forest had acted as a natural air conditioner for Athens and its burning has already caused temperatures and air pollution to rise in the city. There is some speculation the fire was set deliberately to clear land for development. The Greek government has pledged to replant the forest.

Paris Brings Bikes to the People

July 15 — This week Paris it rolled out the world's largest bike rental program, called Vélib. The name is a conjunction of the French words "vélo" (bike) and "liberté" (freedom). More than 10,000 bikes are stationed at 750 self-service locations throughout the city (doubling to 20,000 bikes by 2008). Paris' mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, has pledged to reduce car traffic in the capital city by 40 percent by 2020 and has already built 125 miles of additional bike paths.

Luxury Flight to Let You Light Up

July 12 — With nationwide smoking bans are going into effect all across Europe, Smokers' International Airways, SMINTair, www.smintair.com, is planning to launch all-smoking air service between Germany and Japan. More than 25 percent of Germans and 49 percent of Japanese men are smokers. The airline plans to charge upwards of $6000 for business-class seats on its two refurbished Boeing 747s, which will come with three lounges, a cocktail bar, and gourmet meals. It the idea takes off, the airline will start flying in December.

US Embassy Warns Travelers About Naples Garbage

July 10 — The US Embassy in Rome is warning Americans about possible health risks if they visit Naples, where a three-month-long garbage worker strike has left towering piles of waste on the city's streets. The garbage could attract disease-carrying rats. Also, desperate Naples residents have resorted to burning the garbage, with the bonfires giving off toxic fumes and smoke.

Paris Tries to Shed Rude Stereotype

July 9 — Today was the first-annual Paris Tourist Day, with officials there encouraging residents to be more polite, welcoming, and helpful to the 16 million tourists who visit every year. In a recent survey, Paris was listed third among the world's most attractive cities (Sydney was number one and London was number two). But in the friendliness category, Paris was near the bottom of the list (52nd out of 60 cities). The tourism board is trying to change that by distributing brochures to hotel staff, waiters and waitresses, taxi drivers, and other service workers, encouraging them to be kinder and more pleasant to visitors.

Colosseum Makes New List of Seven Wonders

July 7 — The Colosseum in Rome was included in a new list of the Seven Wonders of the World, named by a non-profit foundation after an international Internet voting campaign. The others are: the Great Wall of China, Peru's Machu Pichu, Brazil's Statue of Christ Redeemer, Jordan's Petra, Mexico's Chichen Itza, and India's Taj Mahal. Not making the list were England's Stonehenge and the Eiffel Tower in Paris. About 100 million people cast votes. The sole survivor from the original 2,000 year-old Greek list of world wonders, the great pyramid at Giza, was made exempt from the voting and continues to hold its classical "world wonder" status.

Bulls Run in Pamplona

July 6 — The annual bull-running festival has kicked off in Pamplona, Spain. The first bull run took place on Saturday, with additional runs set for the following six days. In the runs, people race 870 yards down narrow streets alongside six bulls. More than a dozen people have died in the running since 1924, and PETA is protesting the event as cruel to the bulls.

No Expansion at London's Luton airport

July 6 — A major expansion of Luton Airport outside London, Britain has been shelved, with airport officials saying they can handle projected air traffic within its existing facilties. About 10 million people will fly through Luton this year. It is a major hub for budget airlines like easyJet and Ryanair.

Hamburg Immigration Museum Opens

July 5 — The new BallinStadt museum in Hamburg, Germany, focuses on the 5 million people who passed through during the last century as emigrants on their way to North and South America. Computer screens display complete passenger lists from 1890 forward, allowing visitors to find their emigrant's hometown and intended destination. BallinStadt is of particular interest to those of Jewish heritage: about half of Jewish-Americans have ancestors who passed through Hamburg.

Diplomats to Negotiate Passport Crisis

July 3 — Some 300 junior diplomats have a new assignment: helping to dig the State Department out from under the backlog of US passport applications. The employees were removed moved from posts in Washington, D.C. to two-month assignments in Louisiana and New Hampshire to process passport applications. Last month, the State Department called for volunteers from US embassies and consulates to return stateside to help clear the backlog of 3 million passport applications. The wait for a new passport is now averaging three months, causing problems for thousands of US travelers.

Heightened Security in Wake of Attempted UK Attacks

July 2 — Be prepared for tougher security measures at airports worldwide in the wake of the attempted bombings in the UK. Within the UK, measures include banning private vehicles from airport terminal pick up and drop off zones, more checkpoints and searches of private vehicles, and increased scrutiny of passenger IDs. Patrols have also been stepped up on rail and subway lines. Within the US, airport security has also been ramped up, with more inspections of large vehicles, vans, and trucks, and more air marshals onboard overseas flights.

Cell Calls Get Cheaper in Europe

July 1 — Mobile phone calls between country borders in Europe will get a lot cheaper this month, with the European Union setting the maximum cost of making a call at €0.49 per minute, and the maximum cost to receive a call at €0.29 per minute. The new rules on calls between 27 EU nations went into effect July 2, and will reduce roaming charges for some mobile phone callers by as much as 75 percent. Of course text messages are already cheap.

Passport Delays Continue

Wait times for new US passports have reached gridlock levels, sending lots of travelers into a panic. It seems the new law requiring passports for Yanks traveling to Canada, Mexico, and Central and South America has flooded the State Department with new applications, overwhelming its ability to process them. Now a three-month wait is common.

Worst Heatwave in Greek History

June 29 — Forest fires have killed two people in Greece, where the worst heatwave in the nation's history has resulted in at least 11 deaths and caused power outages in Athens. Over the nine-day heatwave, temperatures soared to 115 degrees in some areas. Romania also suffered 120-degree temperatures and reported 30 heat-related deaths.

Replica Viking Warship Sets Sail

June 28 — A team of 65 sailors, historians, and scientists are attempting to sail a replica Viking warship 1,000 miles across the North Sea from Roskilde, Denmark to Dublin, Ireland. They set sail on June 28 aboard the Sea Stallion, a 30-meter longship that was built using traditional Viking tools and building methods and was based on Viking ships excavated from the Roskilde fjord. The journey is being recorded by BBC television and can be followed online at www.bbc.co.uk/vikingship.

Yotel Opens at London's Gatwick Airport

June 28 — The new Japanese-style capsule Yotel at Gatwick Airport's South Terminal is now open, with a second Yotel opening at Heathrow's Terminal 4 later this year. Inspired by first-class airline cabins, each pod-like room includes a bed and bathroom, pull-down desk, foldaway chair, flat-screen TV, Wi-fi access, and 24-hour food and beverage service. Single rooms are about $50 for a four-hour stay and $100 for 10 hours.

Romans Try to Take Back the Night

June 25 — Residents of Rome, Italy are pressuring city officials to crack down on drunken, rowdy tourists and young Italians who they say are ruining that city's traditional nightlife. Residents say the passeggiata, the traditional, classy evening stroll where locals dress up and walk through the city, is turning into a loud, drunken Mardi Gras-like carnival that leaves its historic piazzas strewn with broken beer bottles. Angry residents in the Trastevere neighborhood last week hung white sheets from their windows in protest of the noise and bad behavior.

Nine EU Nations To Join Borderless Travel Zone

June 24 — Slovakia, Slovenia, Estonia, Hungary, Latvia, Lithuania, Malta, Poland and Czech Republic are scheduled to join the so-called Schengen zone Dec. 31, doing away with border checks. Freedom of movement within the EU is one of the biggest benefits of EU membership, and has major significance for these mostly ex-Communist nations.

Versailles' Hall of Mirrors Shines Again

June 25 — The Hall of Mirrors at Versailles near Paris, France has completely reopened to the public following a three-year restoration. The gallery, with its 357 mirrors and overhead paintings by Charles Le Brun, had remained partially open during the renovation. The $16 million project polished and repaired all the mirrors — two-thirds of which date back to the 17th century, put in a new floor, and cleaned the hall's gilding, sculptures, and paintings. The Treaty of Versailles that ended World War I was signed in the Hall of Mirrors in 1919.

Visitors Can See Restoration In Progress on Donatello's "David"

June 25 — Visitors to the Bargello museum in Florence over the next year can watch as restorers work at removing centuries of dirt from Donatello's "David." The 15th-century bronze nude is being restored for the first time in its nearly 600-year history. The statue will remain on display during the work, allowing visitors a unique glimpse into the world of art restoration.

Cousin of Anne Frank Donates Family Documents

June 25 — New documents donated to the Anne Frank House museum in Amsterdam, The Netherlands give insight into Anne's background and life before the Holocaust. The letters, photographs, and other documents were donated to the museum by Ann Frank's cousin Bernhard Elias, 82, on the 60th anniversary of the first publication of The Diary of Anne Frank.

Carbon Neutral Norway by 2050

June 22 — The Norwegian government has announced a plan to reduce the country's net greenhouse emissions to zero by 2050. It will ban oil-based heat in new buildings, increased reliance on biodegradable products, and more spending on energy efficiency and renewable energy sources. The country will also buy "carbon credits" that fund projects to reduce carbon dioxide emissions in developing countries.

Zoom Airlines Offers $199 Fares to London

June 21 — Zoom Airlines, a low-cost Canadian carrier, is offering cheap seats on daily flights from New York's John F. Kennedy International Airport to London's Gatwick Airport for a one-way fare of $199. A search of other airlines finds that the cheapest competing round-trip flight between New York and London in mid-July is $753, or about $377 each way. Zoom already offers a dozen daily flights between Ottawa, Canada and the UK.

Wild Weather: Heat in Southeast Europe, Torrential Rain in England

June 22 — More than 30 people died in southeastern Europe this week as it temperatures there soared into the 100s, topping out at 113 degrees on the island of Rhodes. The heat wave caused power outages in Greece and Albania, and 19 people died in Romania alone, where the country is also dealing with a drought. High temperatures also caused deaths and health problems in Serbia and Macedonia, and caused violent storms in Austria.

Meanwhile severe weather flooded homes and roads and disrupted rail services in England, stranding some travelers. Gale force winds and torrential rain caused power outages, delayed the opening of the Wimbledon tennis tournament, and interrupted a Glastonbury festival. Twice the average monthly rainfall has been measured in some places.

Newspaper to Be Printed In Welsh

June 20 — The first-ever daily newspaper in the Welsh language will begin printing March, with distribution throughout Wales and by mail to Welsh-speakers throughout the United Kingdom. Y Byd (The World) will cover Welsh, UK, and international news and will be based in Machnlleth. This is a concrete example of how the ethnic regions of Europe are flourishing even as the Continent continues to unify.

British Government Plans Coastal Trail

June 20 — Someday soon hikers will be able to walk the entire circumference of the island of Britain. Plans are afoot to ring the entire 9,040-mile coastline with a picturesque footpath. The coastal trail has already been started in Scotland, but the question of compensation for coastal property owners in England and Wales has delayed the trail there. The British are enthusiastic walkers with a long held belief that private property should not stop people from walking through. (Each year they celebrate a "mass trespass" when hikers go out and reclaim all their rights to ramble freely about their beautiful island.)

Small Camembert Producers Resist Change

June 20 – Once again it's a battle between perceived hygiene and gastronomic tradition. France's Camembert cheese has traditionally been made from unpasteurized milk, an ingredient that purists and small producers say is essential to the cheese's unique taste. But, citing health concerns, France's two largest dairy producers have stopped using raw milk to make Camembert, and are now petitioning the government to certify their new Camembert as "authentic." Of the more than 112,000 tons of Camembert produced in France last year, only about 12,000 tons were made with raw milk and received the coveted appellation d'origine contrôlée. Most of the Camembert exported to the United States is made with heat-treated milk.

In-Flight Phone Calls Okayed

June 19 – The last telephone-free environment on earth – the airplane – is no more. The European Aviation Safety Agency has approved new rules that will allow airline passengers to chat and text away while flying. AirFrance, BMI, and Ryanair will offer the service on AirBus planes, allowing passengers to send and receive phone calls and text and email messages. The system will also offer high-speed WiFi for laptop users. The cost is expected to be about $2.50 a minute for calls and 50 cents per text or email message.

London is World's Second-Most Expensive City

June 19 — An updated list of the world's most-expensive cities pegs Moscow, Russia at No. 1, with London, England running close behind at No. 2. London is up from No. 5 a year ago, as the British pound continues to rise against the dollar. Other European cities in the top 15: Copenhagen, Denmark (No. 5); Geneva, Switzerland (No. 6); Zurich, Switzerland (No. 9); Oslo, Norway (No. 10); Milan, Italy (No. 11); St. Petersburg, Russia (No. 12); and Paris, France (No. 13). New York City, USA is No. 15 and Dublin, Ireland is No. 16. The list by Mercer Human Resource Consulting is based on the cost of housing, transportation, food, clothing, household goods, and entertainment.

48-Hour Notice Proposed for European Visitors to US

June 17 — Congress is considering a measure that would require travelers to the US from some European countries to register their travel plans online at least 48 hours before departure. It would apply to people in 27 countries, mostly in Western Europe, who can currently travel to the US without a visa, along with people from several Central and Eastern Europe countries where the visa requirement is often waived. The proposal comes from the US Homeland Security Department.

World's Longest Land Tunnel Opens in Alps

June 15 — The 21-mile Loetschberg Tunnel under the Alps has opened in Switzerland. When the $3.5 billion tunnel becomes fully operational in December, it will cut the travel time between Germany and Italy through this mountain country by one-third. More than 40 passenger trains and 80 freight trains are expected to use the tunnel daily. A second, even-longer rail route, the Gotthard tunnel, is set to open in 2015. Both are intended to move freight from surface roads onto rail.

Paintings Roam Free in London

June 13 — London's National Gallery is taking its art to the streets, installing more than 30 full-scale reproductions of the world's greatest works outdoors in the city's West End. The masterpieces — complete with ornate frames — will be on display for the next 12 weeks. Sandro Botticelli's Venus and Mars is on the wall of a Sweaty Betty womens' wear shop in Kingly Court, Caravaggio's Head of Saint John the Baptist is outside a Soho sex shop, and George Stubb's Whistlejacket prances along a brick Covent Garden wall. The National Gallery hopes the reproductions will encourage visitors to come see the real thing. Audiotours and maps of the outdoor exhibit are available at www.thegrandtour.org.uk.

Rome Reborn in Virtual World

June 11 — Gazing at the ruined columns of a thousand-year-old Roman building, it's hard for a visitor to imagine what the city looked like in all its ancient glory. The "Rome Reborn" project has digitally recreated Rome at the peak of its power (320 A.D.). The program used laser scans and archaeological evidence to recreate nearly 7000 buildings within the city's 13-mile-long wall. The simulation's primary users will be scholars of ancient history, but plans are underway to make it available to the public on the Internet and in a theater near the Colosseum in Rome.

Venice Biennale Opens

June 10 — The 52nd annual Biennale has opened in Venice, Italy and runs through October. The world's oldest international art exhibit, first held in 1887, focuses on contemporary art with entries from 72 countries. For the first time, the Biennale includes separate pavilions devoted to African art and Roma, or gypsy, art. For exhibit details see www.labiennale.org/en/.

Vatican to Harness Solar Power

June 5 — A new solar panel roof will be built on the Paul VI auditorium at the Vatican in Rome, powering the building's heating, cooling, and lights. Pope Benedict XVI has criticized the world's "unbalanced use of energy," and solar panels are being discussed for other, non-historical buildings at the Vatican. Next up, electricity-generating treadmills for the people standing in line waiting to get in to the Vatican Museum (just kidding).

Basque Separatists Call Off Ceasefire

June 5 — The Basque separatist group ETA has called off its 15-month-old "permanent" ceasefire with the Spanish government and renewed its pledge to "defend the Basque country" by whatever means necessary. Peace talks broke down in December 2006 after a bombing at the Madrid Airport, although the ETA said it was not responsible for that attack. More than 800 people have died in ETA's 40-year-campaign to create an independent Basque country in northern Spain and southwest France.

Paper Tickets to Disappear

June 5 — The paper airline ticket is about to go extinct. Less than one-quarter of the world's airlines still issue paper tickets. An airline industry group, the International Air Transport Association, is giving the holdouts until May 31, 2008 to convert to electronic ticketing. Airlines can save up to $9 per ticket by issuing them electronically instead of on old-fashioned paper.

Paris Joins Cycling Cities

May 31 — Paris is rolling out the world's largest bike rental program, joining a growing list of European cities offering bikes to its citizens in an effort to reduce car traffic. The service, called Vélib, will station 10,000 bikes at 1,000 sites throughout the city this summer, doubling to 20,000 by year end. Similar programs are finding success in Brussels, Dublin, Vienna, and Lyon — where bicycle traffic has increased 30 percent, car trips are down 4 percent, and officials say 3,000 tons of carbon dioxide emissions have been saved. While the programs are enticing to tourists, in practice they don't work well for visitors (or are too complicated). This is just one of a multitude of ways Europe is creatively going green.

Cake's 175th Birthday

May 31 — Sachertorte, Austria's celebrated chocolate cake, turns 175 years old this year. The original Sachertorte was created for Prince Wensel Mettenich in 1832 by a 16-year-old chef's apprentice, Franz Sacher. The layered cake with apricot filling and dark icing is the trademark desert at Vienna's elegant Hotel Sacher café, but is available at just about any Austrian eatery.

Dutch City to Fingerprint Marijuana Buyers

May 30 — Marijuana buyers at coffee shops in the Dutch city of Maastricht this summer will be fingerprinted and will need to provide ID. The new rules are intended to prevent marijuana sales to children and to limit customers to five grams a day. After a ten-year track record of not arresting people for smoking marijuana, the consensus among drug policy makers in the Netherlands is that the crime is gone, there's been no substantial increase in consumption, and law enforcement is able to focus on problems related to hard drug abuse.

High-Speed Trains To Link Germany and Paris

May 25 — The new Alleo high-speed train line opens this month linking France, Germany, Switzerland, and Luxembourg. Running at nearly 200 miles per hour, the TGV Est will cut travel time from Frankfurt to Paris in half, to 3.5 hours from over six hours. A second-class Frankfurt-Paris ticket will cost $133. Rail officials envision the new line as the start of a European-wide high-speed train network that someday could link Barcelona to Budapest.

Dickens Theme Park Opens

May 25 — Dicken's World has opened in Chatham, Kent in England. The Dickens-themed park features a boat ride through Dickensian England, Ebenezer Scrooge's haunted house, and other scenes from Dickens' writings such as Newgate Prison and Dotheboys Hall. Park staff are dressed as Dickensian characters, including pick pockets and card sharks.

EU Considers Cuts in Mobile Phone Roaming Fees

May 23 — The cost of using a mobile phone in European Union countries could decrease later this year, as the EU considers cuts to roaming fees. Currently, for example, owners of a British mobile phone pay about €1.47 a minute for calls made while in Spain. Under the new rules, the cost of making a mobile call anywhere in the EU would be capped at €0.49, while receiving a call would cost €0.24 at most. Costs would fall even more in 2008 and 2009. If approved, the changes won't go into effect until August at the earliest — too late for many 2007 travelers — and won't cover text messages. In general, I recommend purchasing a new SIM card for your mobile phone when you cross European country borders. For details on using a mobile phone in Europe, read my tips at http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/tips/mobilephones.htm.

Fire Damages Historic Cutty Sark

May 22 — Already closed for restoration, the Cutty Sark clipper ship in Greenwich, England was heavily damaged by a fire on May 21. Police believe the fire may have been deliberately set aboard the famous 19th-century tea clipper, which was partially disassembled and in dry-dock. A temporary exhibit opened next to the ship this spring explaining the restoration work. For more information see www.cuttysark.org.uk.

Eurotunnel to Remain Open Despite Bankruptcy

May 21 — Investors in the Eurotunnel between England and France are up against a deadline to restructure the debt-ridden enterprise's finances, or see the tunnel go into bankruptcy. Regardless of the outcome, Eurotunnel operations will continue as normal and there should be no disruptions for travelers. Since opening in 1994, the tunnel has become a popular transportation alternative but has failed to meet revenue projections.

Reims: Soon 45 Minutes From Paris

May 11 — Beginning June 10, the new high-speed TGV will link Paris to Reims in 45 minutes. Rail Europe is offering a $29 special on tickets valid for travel June 10-August 26. Those traveling from London can combine the Eurostar with the TGV and be in Reims within 4.5 hours.

Look for "Decorum Patrols" in Venice This Summer

May 10 — Be on your best behavior when you visit St. Mark's Square in Venice this summer. Responding to increasing crowds and piles of litter, stewards there have been authorized to eject and even fine tourists who drop wrappers, eat outside a café, or sunbathe. Officials are trying to clean up the grand piazza that Napoleon called "the drawing room of Europe." Legal picnicking (and napping) are still allowed in a small park nearby, the Giardinetti Reali.

Il Postino Beach Shrinks

May 10 — The beach off a Sicilian island made famous by the Oscar-winning movie Il Postino is disappearing, a victim of too many visitors. What was once 30 feet of grey sand and white pebbles between the Mediterranean and a cliff is now less than 12 feet wide. While some of the erosion may have been caused by pleasure boat traffic, residents say many tourists take home bags of sand or pocketfuls of pebbles. Global warming may also be playing a role in the shrinking strip of sand.

First Woman Gondolier in Venice

May 10 — Breaking more than 1000 years of tradition, a Venetian court has allowed a woman to become a gondolier. Alexandra Hai can now paddle her gondola around Venice's canals, although she is limited to carrying guests of the Locanda Art Deco hotel. Hai's quest to become a gondolier has been bitterly opposed by the 425 all-male members of the gondoliers association, who traditionally pass on their jobs from father to son. Hai joins pioneering waitress Ljubica Gunj, who became the first female allowed to serve customers seated at tables on St. Mark's Square only eight years ago.

New Train Could Damage Barcelona Cathedral

May 9 — Concerns are being raised that the unfinished Cathedral of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, Spain could be damaged by trains passing through a new tunnel there. The cathedral, which as been under construction for 125 years and was the culminating work of architect Antoni Gaudí. The city's plan to bore a high-speed train tunnel within feet of the Sagrada Familia's foundations is drawing criticism from cathedral officials, who say vibrations could cause cracks in the church exterior or shake loose delicate mosaics.

Europe Braces For High Heat

April 26 — Following up on last summer's high heat, unseasonably warm spring weather is already being noted across many parts of Western Europe. High temperatures and dry conditions during the month of April have set records in France and Germany, where temperatures are running about 10 degrees above normal. The Netherlands, Britain, and Italy are also reporting a lack of rain. In Italy especially, talk is already turning to anticipated droughts and power shortages this summer because of lack of run-off from the Alps.

Eye Surgeon May Help Restore Scream

April 26 — An eye surgeon make be called in to remove tiny splinters of glass from the Edvard Munch paintings The Scream and Madonna, recovered last year after being stolen from the Munch Museum in Oslo, Norway. Tiny pieces of glass were embedded in the paintings when they were broken from their frames. Restoration will also include repairs to multiple scrapes and tears in the paintings — the result of improper storage and rough handling. Thieves just don't know how to care for fine art.

Kids Under 11 Ride Tube For Free

April 21 — Kids under age 11 can now travel for free on London's Tube when accompanied by an adult--all day, every day. While intended to help low-income families, the price cut is a great money-saver for families traveling to Britain. Up to four children under age 11 may accompany an adult with a valid ticket or Oyster card. London's buses and trams are also free to kids under age 16.

Venice Clock Tower Keeping Time Again

April 11 — Torre dell'Orologia, the famous clock tower on Piazza San Marco in Venice, is again in full working order. Dating from 1499, the tower was closed for a decade while the 3,000-piece clock mechanism completely dismantled and restored. Now travelers can again view the clock's interior workings, and take in city views from the top of the tower. Reservations are required and can be made online at www.museiciviciveneziani.it. (With all the other charms and viewpoints in Venice, it's probably only worth the trouble for clock-makers.)

Less-Expensive Trans-Atlantic Fares Predicted

April 11 — An agreement to open more trans-Atlantic air routes to more airline companies has some industry experts predicting cheaper air fares. The "open skies" deal, which will be signed April 30 but doesn't go into effect until 2008, makes it possible for European and US airlines to fly more routes between European and US cities. It also eliminates restrictions on which airlines can serve London's Heathrow Airport. Several low-cost carriers — including Ryanair, Virgin Atlantic, and Aer Lingus — have said they will begin offering service from the US to cities in Europe. Let's heat this baby up!

Nonstop Service to Spain

April 10 — Iberia Airlines launches nonstop service from Boston and Washington to Spain this spring, marking the only nonstop service to Spain from those gateways. On May 6, the new Boston-Madrid service will begin operating five days a week with an introductory fare of $549 plus tax. The Dulles-Madrid service, also five times weekly, will kick off June 2, priced at $699 plus tax.

High-speed Rail Links Lorraine to Paris

April 10 — The French National Railways and the Lorraine region in the north of France have inaugurated the first phase of a high-speed rail link. Starting June 10, the East European TGV will cover the first 300 kilometers of the line at a record speed of about 200 mph. The travel time from 10 major Lorraine cities to Paris will be cut in half, and connections will also open up the national TGV network that spans France's north, west and southwest. The new service is expected to boost traffic to the Lorraine region by 40 percent. This is part of the European-wide network of high-speed futuristic train lines that is lacing that 400 million person free-trade zone tighter and tighter together.

Munich Opens Jewish Cultural Complex

April 10 — Throughout Germany new museums and documentation centers are opening as the grandchildren of the people who brought us WWII and the Holocaust deal now with their relatively recent history in an honest and thoughtful way. The latest of these is the opening of Munich's Jewish Museum which marked the completion of the city's new Jewish Cultural Center complex. The museum shares the site on St. Jakobsplatz with the Jewish community's new main synagogue and community center, run by the Jewish community. The complex also includes a Jewish school and daycare center. Three long-term exhibitions on the main floor, titled "Voices," "Places," and "Times," illustrate Jewish history and culture in Munich. The second and third floors of the museum house rotating exhibits. For details, visit www.juedisches-museum-muenchen.de.

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