Winter Activities in London
London dazzles year-round so consider visiting in winter, when airfares and hotel rates are generally cheaper and there are fewer tourists. Despite drearier weather and shorter days, London's museums, theaters, concert halls, and pubs offer a warm and cozy welcome.
London at Christmas is especially appealing, with its buildings dressed in their holiday best. Many holiday traditions have their roots in 19th-century Victorian Britain. Beginning in the 1840s, Queen Victoria's German husband Prince Albert popularized the decorating of Christmas trees and the sending of Christmas cards. And what could be more traditional than seeing the setting of Charles Dickens' A Christmas Carol come to life? God bless us, every one.
November to January
Pantomimes or "pantos" are a British holiday tradition. While they have nothing to do with silent mimes--and they don't mention Christmas--these campy fairy-tale plays entertain with outrageous costumes, sets, and dance numbers. Verbal participation is definitely encouraged and it doesn't take long to learn the lines. Adults will laugh at the more risqué jokes, while kids will giggle at the slapstick. Two London theaters that usually stage pantos are the Hackney Empire (northeast London, Tube: Bethnal Green, then 10 min on #106 or #254 bus, tel. 020/8985-2424, www.hackneyempire.co.uk) or the Old Vic (southeast of Waterloo Station, Tube: Waterloo, toll tel. 0870-060-6628, www.oldvictheatre.com). For a run-down of all theater events, see www.timeout.com or www.officiallondontheatre.co.uk. For more about pantos and their traditions, see www.its-behind-you.com.
Get some exercise at the outdoor ice rinks at Somerset House, Tower of London, Natural History Museum, Hampton Court Palace, and Kew Gardens, among others (£10-15/session, includes skates, generally mid-Nov-mid-Jan 10:00-22:00, can be smart to drop in ahead of time to make reservations).
The Hyde Park Winter Wonderland offers kitschy carnival fun with a Ferris wheel, carousel, and other rides, as well as an ice rink and vendors selling silly hats and plenty of food and drink (free entry, rides £2-10, late Nov-early Jan, southeast corner of park, Tube: Hyde Park Corner, www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com).
Stroll around and enjoy the elaborate light displays and store windows on major shopping streets from mid-November to early January, especially on Oxford Street, Bond Street, Regent Street, and Brompton Road. Post-holiday sales start December 26 for many stores, with the famous Harrods winter sale beginning a day or two later.
The Trafalgar Square Christmas tree is given to London every year from the people of Oslo, Norway, in appreciation for British help during World War II (lighting ceremony first Thu in Dec, stays up until Jan 6, www.london.gov.uk). Free carol concerts are also held beneath the tree in December.
The Geffrye Museum's 12 historic rooms are decorated for Christmas every year, highlighting holiday customs from the 17th century to today (free, www.geffrye-museum.org.uk).
Take in a seasonal concert at the grand, red-velvet-draped Royal Albert Hall; ask about "carols by candlelight" events (tickets as cheap as £12, Tube: South Kensington, box office tel. 020/7589-8212, www.royalalberthall.com).
Instead of visiting Santa Claus at the North Pole, British children see Father Christmas in his grotto. In London, the poshest Santas are at Harrods and Selfridges, and it may be worth reserving in advance to avoid long lines (late Nov-Christmas Eve, reservation fee about £2, photos-£10-15; Harrods, Tube: Knightsbridge, tel. 020/7730-1234; Selfridges, Tube: Bond Street or Marble Arch, toll tel. 0845-122-2522).
Nibble your way through Borough Market, where you'll find lots of seasonal and gourmet treats (Thu 11:00-17:00, Fri 12:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-16:00; closed Sun-Wed except open daily week before Christmas, closed Dec 25-26; south of London Bridge, where Southwark Street meets Borough High Street, Tube: London Bridge, tel. 020/7404-1002, www.boroughmarket.org.uk). While at the market, be sure and sample traditional favorites such as mulled wine, mince pie, Christmas cake, and Christmas pudding.
Another popular holiday food event is the German Cologne Market, on the South Bank between the London Eye and the Royal Festival Hall (late Nov-late Dec, daily 10:00-22:00, Tube: Waterloo, www.christmasmarkets.com).
Don't forget to pick up some Christmas crackers to give your holiday meals some extra bang. Not to be confused with something you eat, these are fun party favors containing a paper crown, a teeny gift, and a corny joke. Buy them at grocery or department stores, find a friend, and pull hard.
Christmas Day
Spending December 25 in London? While almost everything is closed, and there is no public transport, there are still a few options for getting out.
Popular church services are held both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day at Westminster Abbey, Westminster Cathedral, St. Paul's, and St. Martin-in-the-Fields, among others. Warning: These draw large crowds so ask in advance about when to arrive. (For example, you may need to wait in line several hours for the Abbey's 16:00 service on Christmas Eve.)
The Peter Pan Cup swim race, held in Hyde Park every Christmas morning since 1864, is named in honor of Peter Pan playwright J. M. Barrie, who presented the first cup. You must be a member of the local swimming club to compete, but spectators are welcome (9:00, south side of The Serpentine--a lake in the center of the park). Break the ice by asking a local where to find the nearby Peter Pan statue.
London Walks offers two guided walking tours on December 25, with appropriate themes such as "Christmas Morning 1660" and "Charles Dickens' A Christmas Carol" (£7, 11:00 & 14:00, meet at Trafalgar Square Christmas tree, tel. 020/7624-3978 or recorded info tel. 020/7624-9255, www.walks.com).
Watch the Queen's annual Christmas message on the BBC at 15:00. If you miss it, you can watch it online via Her Majesty's Royal YouTube channel (www.youtube.com).
If your visit extends through the New Year, here are two events to be aware of: New Year's Eve fireworks from the London Eye attract at least 400,000 revelers to Trafalgar Square and the nearby riverbank, with good viewing spots staked out hours in advance. Public transport is free after the festivities (generally 23:45-04:00). The next day, a parade featuring 10,000 performers snakes from Big Ben to Piccadilly Circus (free, grandstand seats-£16, 12:00-15:00, www.londonparade.co.uk).
Christmas Travel Strategies
• If arriving on Christmas Day, arrange transport from the airport in advance. Try Dot2Dot door-to-door shuttle vans (£19 one-way, Heathrow and Gatwick only, toll tel. 0845-368-2368, www.dot2.com).
• Pick a central location if staying over December 25. There is no public transit (Tube, train, or buses) at all on Christmas Day; and reduced services on Christmas Eve and Boxing Day (Dec 26). For specifics, see www.tfl.gov.uk. Taxis are scarce, so be prepared for a long wait (£4 holiday surcharge, toll tel. 0871-871-8710). Better yet, bundle up warmly and walk.
• To save money and avoid transportation difficulties, stay someplace with a kitchen (such as an apartment, hostel, or hotel room with kitchenette) so you can prepare some of your own meals. Don't forget to buy groceries before stores close on Christmas Eve.
• If you plan to eat out December 24-26 without reservations, go ethnic: Indian, Chinese, and Middle Eastern restaurants are usually open in Soho, Chinatown, along Edgware Road, or near the East End's Brick Lane.
Updated for 2009. For lots more information, check out our best-selling Rick Steves' London guidebook — or join us on one of our free-spirited London tours!