Santorini (Thira)
Note: This information is from 2004. Some prices and other time-sensitive material may have changed. You may want to consult a more recent guidebook, such as Lonely Planet: Greece (8th edition, March 2008).
This spectacular volcanic island is a top tourist destination for most
island hoppers. Even with the hordes of tourist in the high season, Santorini
(known locally as Thira) is still a stunning spot. Fira is the major town
and tourist draw. Oia is a nice small-town alternative.
Arrival on Santorini
By Boat: Other than cruise ships, most boats arrive at Athinios port, four kilometers south of Fira, the island's main town. Room-finding services, travel agents, and cafés are located at the port. Be sure to shop around if you are looking for a room; many agents represent only certain hotels, and can be rather pushy — especially in the off-season. Plenty of hotels and pensions also send minivans to the dock to try to get renters. Buses for Fira are parked here at all hours, ready to take travelers into town. The switchback road to/from this port is jam-packed in high season, so give yourself enough time to make your next boat when you depart the island.
By Air: Santorini is well-connected to Athens by plane (5/day via Olympic Airways, tel. 0286/22493 and 0286/22793). The airport, located near Monolithos, seven kilometers from Fira, is just a short bus ride from Fira or Oia.
Getting Around Santorini
By Bus: Buses run from early in the morning into the night all over the island, to beaches, sights, and the port.
By Tour: Many day trips are available through Kamari Tours, who have monopolized this market. They offer a good value, though, and a great opportunity to see a lot in a short time. Book at any travel agent, or at their office, just downhill from the Fira bus station. All tours are given in both English and German. Tours depart from Fira, but can pick you up in Oia as well.
Here is a sampling of tours: Half-day tour of Akrotiri and a local wine-tasting (€12.50, doesn't include Akrotiri admission, departs 11:15, returns 14:45); all-day tour of Akrotiri, Faros, Perissa and its black sand beach, Prophet Elias monastery, and wine-tasting (€15.25, doesn't include Akrotiri admission or lunch, departs 10:15, returns 17:00); all-day tour of Akrotiri, Nea Kameni crater, volcano crater, hot springs, Thirassia, and Oia (€20.50, doesn't include Akrotiri admission or lunch, departs 10:00, returns after sunset).
Beaches: Santorini has two, very unique, black sand beaches; Perissa and Kamari. Both can be easily reached by bus.
Fira
This touristy town can get overrun, but it does offer great views of the crater and the water. Fira is worth a visit, but if you plan to stay on Santorini for a few nights, consider Oia rather than Fira.
Arrival in Fira: The bus drops you at the town's bus station. This is where all buses depart from Fira. From here, walk uphill to Theotokopoulou Square. Don't linger long, unless you have business to do with one of the many travel agents, pharmacies, or banks (you'll pass a National Bank of Greece with an ATM). Head west to the crater's edge. The view is tremendous. A couple of streets, running parallel to the water, are lined with restaurants, jewelry stores, and plenty of craft and souvenir shops.
Bus Station: The schedule is posted on a large placard at the bus station. Prices range from €0.65-1 for trips all over the island (Oia, Akrotiri, Monothios/airport, and beaches at Kamari and Perissa).
Cable Cars: Cable cars run to and from the boat docks below Fira. Unless you are trying to get back to your cruise ship, there is no real reason to go down. But if you just like cable cars, they're handy (€2.35, students-€1.20, 2/hrly from 6:40-22:00).
Sights in Fira
Megaro Gyzi: The town museum has a mixed bag of exhibits. Most interesting are the old photos of the island before and after the big earthquake of 1956, and of the volcano in action (€1.50, students-€0.75, Monday-Saturday 10:30-13:30, 17:00-20:00, Sunday 10:30-16:30).
Archeological Museum: This museum, near the bus station, opened in late 1998 and features Minoan frescoes found on the island.
Sunset: Consider splurging for a coffee or cocktail here in one of the cliffside restaurants.
Sleeping and Eating in Fira
Hotel Loucas offers 18 rooms, all with air-con, TV, and phone. Some have terraces or balconies with views of the crater (Sb-€53-71, Db-€71-95, Tb-€88-120 depending on season, includes breakfast and taxes, reserve a month ahead for high season, tel. 0286/22480, 0286/22680, and 0286/22880, fax 0286/24882, in winter: tel. 01/577-6232 and fax 01/494-5065). They will send someone to meet you at the bus station or taxi stand. You can get fine meals at the adjacent Aris restaurant.
Pelican Hotel, closer to the bus station without a crater view, has 18 rooms with all the comforts (Sb-€44-65, Db-€60-80, includes breakfast).
The International Youth Hostel is only for bare-bones budgeteers wanting to stay in Fira (€6 per person in 6- to 12-bed dorms, D-€23.50, T-€26.50, Q-€30 tel. (0286)22387, 23864].
Many fine restaurants line the main upper road. You will, however pay for the view. Consider walking downhill a bit for cheaper options, including many pizzerias.
Several trendy wine bars with terraces offer glasses of local wine for €0.85. This is a fine pre-dinner option for watching the sunset.
Nikolas, a small restaurant that offers big plates of Greek food, has reasonable prices (in narrow alley near Megaro Gyzi museum).
Oia
This town on the northwest end of the island is known for its spectacular sunset views. With its earth-tone buildings, art galleries, and boutiques, Oia (pronounced ee-uh) looks a lot like Sante Fe with water. It's quieter at night than Fira, so if you don't plan on going out on the town, consider slumbering here.
Arrival in Oia: From the bus station/parking lot, head left to the rim. When you come to a small square with benches, look at the water and head right to reach the center of town. The main street, lined with boutiques and galleries, runs parallel to the water. When you come upon the town hall/police station (small square), consider a gyro-to-go from Café Greco. If you follow this path all the way to the end you will be at the best viewpoints for sunsets. A steep and strenuous hike down to the beach is worth it if you're in shape. Bring more water and film than you think you'll need.
Sleeping in Oia
Oia offers some great alternatives to hotels. Consider staying in a traditional house on the crater's edge.
Zoe rents eight renovated houses for 2-6 people. Prices vary depending on the season (studio Db-€47-73, suite Db with patio-€82-126, Tb-€94-145, apartment for 2-6 with kitchen-€60-147 depending on number in party, Address-Oia 84702, Santorini, Tel./Fax 71 466.
The Lotza Restaurant has six traditional houses with beds for 2-4 people (one apartment sleeps seven), each with a patio and small kitchen (Db-€47-60, Qb-€74, in April-October, tel. & fax 0286/71198 and tel. 0286/71357). From November to March, prices drop nearly 50 percent and the phone number changes: tel. & fax 01/685-4327.
Hotel Lauda offers 15 traditional houses, all with views and most with kitchens. Compared to Zoe and Lotza (above), the rooms are cheaper but lack the charm (Db-€30-45, Qb-€74, prices vary depending on the season; from the town square, head left when facing the water to find this hotel, tel. 0286/71157 and 0286/71204 fax 0286/71274).
Inland you can find fine rooms for rent at several small pensions. Youth Hotel Oia, a spacious, clean privately run "hostel," is a great option for budget travelers (€4.50-8.80 per person in 4- to 12-bed rooms, includes breakfast on rooftop/terrace bar, from bus station follow signs to "Youth Hotel," tel. & fax 0286/71465).
Eating in Oia
The quaint Lotza Restaurant offers a fine assortment of meals for a reasonable price, considering the view (daily 9:00-24:00, located along the main path, just below small town square).
Petros Taverna, located the opposite direction of the town center from the town square, offers seating on both sides of the path: one side with view, one side without. This popular establishment has been run by the same family for 50 years. They serve up great seafood, and still make their own wines.
The bakery near the bus station has great, warm bread and pastries in the morning.
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