Memorable Meals in Sevilla's Triana District
By Rick Steves
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| Sevilla's restaurants supply a feast for the eyes as well as the tastebuds! |
For your most memorable meal in Sevilla, cross the river and eat in Triana. The colorful Triana District — south of the river, between the San Telmo and Isabel II bridges — is filled with rustic and fun eateries.
Tapas: The riverside street, Calle Betis (Betis is the Roman name for the Guadalquivir River), is best for tapas bars. Before sitting down, walk to the Santa Ana church (midway between the bridges, two blocks off the river) where tables spill into the square in the shadow of the floodlit church spire. It feels like the whole neighborhood is out celebrating. On Plazuela Santa Ana, two restaurants feed the neighborhood: Taberna la Plazuela is self-service, doing simpler fare with enticing €12 tostones — giant, fancy Andalusian bruschetta (good for 3–4 people) and €2 montaditos (little sandwiches). Restaurante Bistec, with most of the square's tables, does grilled fish with enthusiasm. I liked taquitos de merluza (hake fish), but for a mix of fish, ask for frito variado (both open daily 11:30–16:00 & 20:00–24:00, Plazuela de Santa Ana, tel. 954-274-759.)
For tapas in a rustic bull bar, head a block down the street where Bar Santa Ana, draped in bullfighting and Weeping Virgin memorabilia, is busy filling locals from a fun list of tapas like delicia de solomillo — tenderloin (long hours, closed Sun, Pureza 82, tel. 954-272-102).
Riverside Dinners: For a restaurant dinner (with properly attired waiters and full menus as opposed to tapas), consider these neighbors on Calle Betis, next to the San Telmo bridge. Río Grande is your candlelight-fancy option (€35 dinners, daily 13:00–16:00 & 20:00–24:00, tel. 954-273-956); its terrace is less expensive, more casual, and a better value.
At the Isabel II bridge, in the yellow bridge tower, El Faro de Triana offers inexpensive tapas, a €10 fixed-price lunch, €15 à la carte dinners, and the best views over the river from the top floor (Tue-Sun 12:00–24:00, closed Mon, tel. 954-336-192). Nearby, with tablecloths on it riverside tables, La Taberna del Pescador is fancier and more expensive (€12 and up raciones on the river (Wed–Mon 12:00–16:00 & 20:00–23:00, closed Tue, 50 yards from Puente de Isabel II on Calle Betis, tel. 954-330-069).
Updated for 2008. For lots more information, check out our best-selling Rick Steves' Spain guidebook — or join us on one of our free-spirited tours in Spain.