Memorable Meals in Sevilla's Triana District
By Rick Steves
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| Sevilla's restaurants supply a feast for the eyes as well as the tastebuds! |
For your most memorable meal in Sevilla, cross the river and eat in Triana. The colorful Triana District — south of the river, between the San Telmo and Isabel II bridges — is filled with rustic and fun eateries.
Tapas: The riverside street, Calle Betis (Betis is the Roman name for the Guadalquivir River), is best for tapas bars. Before sitting down, walk to the Santa Ana church (midway between the bridges, two blocks off the river) where tables spill into the square in the shadow of the floodlit church spire. It feels like the whole neighborhood is out celebrating. On Plazuela Santa Ana, two restaurants feed the neighborhood: Taberna la Plazuela is self-service, doing simpler fare with enticing €12 tostones — giant, fancy Andalusian bruschetta (good for 3–4 people) and €2 montaditos (little sandwiches). Restaurante Bistec, with most of the square's tables, does grilled fish with gusto. They're enthusiastic about their cod cakes and calamari. Consider their indoor seating and the fun at the bar before sitting out on the square (€7 half-raciones, €13 full raciones, Thu–Tue 11:30–16:00 & 20:00–24:00, closed Wed, also closed Sun afternoons in winter, Plazuela de Santa Ana, tel. 954-274-759.)
For tapas in a rustic bull bar, head a block down the street where Bar Santa Ana, draped in bullfighting and Weeping Virgin memorabilia, is busy filling locals from a fun list of tapas like delicia de solomillo — tenderloin (long hours, typically closed one day per week — closed Sun during April Fair, facing the side of the church at Pureza 82, tel. 954-272-102).
Riverside Dinners: For a restaurant dinner (with properly attired waiters and full menus as opposed to tapas), consider these neighbors on Calle Betis, next to the San Telmo bridge. Río Grande is your candlelight-fancy option (€35 dinners, daily 13:00–16:00 & 20:00–24:00, air-con, paella and rice dishes are the house specialty, next to the San Telmo Bridge, tel. 954-273-956); its terrace is less expensive, more casual. El Faro de Triana is actually the old yellow bridge tower overlooking the Isabel II Bridge. While professional, it's less formal and quirkier than Río Grande. They offer inexpensive tapas, €15 à la carte dishes, and grand views over the river from the top floor (the views are better than the food). Choose from four dining zones: rooftop, outdoor terrace just below the rooftop (perhaps the best), riverside metal tables on the sidewalk, and the bar. There's no cover charge, but they don't serve tapas on the roof or riverside (open daily, bar—8:00–24:00, restaurant—13:00–17:00 & 20:15–24:00, tel. 954-336-192). La Taberna del Pescador is fancier and more expensive (€12 and up raciones on the river (Wed–Mon 12:00–16:00 & 20:00–24:00, closed Tue, 50 yards from Puente de Isabel II on Calle Betis, tel. 954-330-069).
Updated for 2010. For lots more information, check out our best-selling Rick Steves' Spain guidebook — or join us on one of our free-spirited tours in Spain.