Using Your Rail Pass
 |
| Never hesitate to ask questions and confirm assumptions while you're on the road. |
Equip yourself with good information
This section discusses almost everything you need to know to use your railpass wisely. But be sure to read all the printed information that accompanies your pass. Do not remove the railpass cover (with official restrictions). Rick's new 90-minute Travel Skills program (DVD free with railpass purchase) gives you an advance look at European trains and stations.
Validating your pass
Never write anything on your pass before it's been validated. You must get your pass validated in Europe before you use it. All passes must be validated within six months of the issue date (usually the day you bought it). For example, if May 24 is stamped on your Eurailpass as the issue date, you must validate (start) the pass by November 23.
Validate your pass at any station: It's easy. At any European train station (or some travel agencies), present your railpass and passport to a railway official at a ticket window. The ticket agent (not you) will write in your passport number, and the first and last dates of your travel period, and stamp the validation box on the far right. For example, a two-month validity period starting May 15 will end at midnight on July 14. You may want to write these dates European style (15.05.08– 14.07.08) on a slip of paper to show the ticket agent. All trips and bonuses must be started and finished within the valid life of your pass. If you have a group pass (i.e., a Saverpass or Twin Pass), all group members must be present when the pass is validated.
You may validate your country pass before arriving in that country, or en route. Let's say you're in Munich with a French railpass, you're heading to Paris, and you want the French portion of your route to be covered by your French railpass. At the Munich train station, buy a ticket to the French border and have the agent validate your French pass at the same time. Note: You may be charged $5 to $30 (in local currency) to have your pass validated on the train. Approach the conductor; don't let him "catch" you with an unvalidated pass (he'll assume you're trying to cheat).
Using Your Pass
 |
| Before you hop on that first train in Europe, have an official at the station validate your railpass. |
Unless you're taking a train that requires a reservation (see below), just hop on the train with your validated pass and find a seat. With a consecutive-day pass (available for Eurail Global, BritRail, or Swiss passes), nobody counts how many days you travel during the validated period. If you have flexipass, fill in the travel date before the conductor reaches you. After the train starts, the conductor will head down the train, asking for tickets and passes, and checking that they are dated correctly. Simply show the conductor your pass. He or she may ask to see your passport too.
Using a flexipass: On your flexipass, you'll see a string of blank boxes, one for each travel day available to you. You can take as many trips as you like within each travel day. Before boarding the train (or bus or boat covered 100% by your pass), fill in that day's date in ink in one of the blank boxes on your pass. A railpass day normally runs from midnight to midnight, a standard calendar day.
7 p.m. rule: A direct overnight train uses up only one flexipass travel day (not two) if you board after 7 p.m. In that case, you just write the next day's date on your flexipass. You'll identify an overnight train in schedules both by the timing and generally by notation that it has sleepers and couchettes available. If your route requires connecting trains, you use fewer travel days by starting with an overnight train and making connections on the day of arrival. If you're starting in a small town where the night train doesn't stop, you'll use a different day of your flexipass (or buy a separate ticket) to connect to the night train departure city (for instance, Interlaken-Speiz $10 or Füssen-Munich $30). Some smaller countries or regions don't offer qualifying night trains (and the rule does not apply with Swiss, Czech, Central Scotland, nor London Plus passes). If the very first use of your flexipass is for an overnight ride, you still write the next day's date as the date of travel, but your pass will be validated starting with the actual date you board. All rides must be started and completed within the validity period of the pass and the 7 p.m. rule does not apply to consecutive-day passes. An overnight boat ride also uses just one travel day, but you get to choose whether to count the date of departure or the date of arrival.
Train Reservations
Railpasses cover 95% of all state-run trains in Europe, but don't cover reservation fees. For many trains (local, regional, interregional, most EuroCity and InterCity trains, or Germany's speedy ICE), reservations are not necessary and not worth the trouble and expense unless you're traveling during a busy holiday period. Reservations are required for any train marked with an "R" in the schedule (e.g., high speed trains such as France's TGV, Swiss scenic trains, long rides in Spain, Italy, and Norway), and for couchettes and sleepers (see "Sleeping on Trains," below). Internet schedules use the term "Reservation Compulsory" (while "Please Reserve" means it's optional).
Seat reservations, which cost from $5 to $35, can be made as early as two months in advance (three for Thalys and other international routes from France, four to six for Eurostar), or up to a few hours in advance. All trains that require reservations also limit the number of seats available to passholders. It is wise to reserve at least several days ahead (or as soon as you're ready to commit to a date and time) for night trains, weekends and holidays, high season, routes with infrequent service, any train you cannot afford to miss, or if you need several seats together. For instance, TGV fast trains in France and direct Paris-Italy day and night trains are popular routes that can sell out weeks ahead. See Plan Your Trip for a list of holidays in Europe.
Print our full reservation fee list PDF for handy reference and much more detail.
You can get reservations in Europe at train stations or at travel agencies there. But if you're ready to book ahead (and if you've already purchased your railpass), call Rail Europe at 800/438-7245 (from Canada, you can call Rail Europe at 800/361-7245). A printed ticket will be shipped to you. Reservations made in the U.S. cost a little more. Most reservations are not changeable or refundable. If you need many reservations, compare prices from Euraide (sells European rates, two weeks for delivery, higher handling fee, see www.euraide.de/ricksteves). Pay before boarding for any required fees, or the conductor will charge more en route. ETBD does not make reservations.
Sleeping
on Trains
 |
| For about $32 extra, you can reserve an overnight couchette bunk. You'll have roommates, but also a conductor/cop who keeps out the riff-raff. |
Taking long train trips at night makes sense. Every night spent riding the rails gives you an extra day to sightsee, saves you the cost of a hotel, and allows you to arrive early before the cheaper hotels fill up. The scenery missed is usually insignificant when you consider the time you gain — a day to bike in Holland, hike in the Alps, or sunbathe on an Italian beach.
Major stations may have shower facilities where you can freshen up after your morning arrival. You can try to sleep in you seat, or rent a couchette (berth) or sleeper (more private compartment). Whether you have a ticket or a railpass, you must pay extra for a couchette or sleeper.
Seat sleeping: If you're in an open-style car (with airline-type seats) or in a crowded compartment, you'll sit up miserably all night. If you're in an uncrowded compartment, you may be able to pull out the seats to make a bed. Expect frequent interruptions. Wear your moneybelt and clip your bags to the luggage rack for security. When they offer seats, many overnight trains require a seat reservation ($5).
Couchette: One of Europe's great bargains is the $32 couchette (pronounced koo-SHET). It's a bed in a usually lockable compartment with two triple bunks (with a blanket, pillow, clean linen, and up to five compartment mates). Some routes have co-ed compartments; others are single gender. As you board, you'll give the attendant your couchette voucher, railpass or ticket, and passport. He deals with conductors, thieves, and customs officials on your behalf as you sleep uninterrupted in relative safety.
Book your couchette in advance, either through a European travel agent or at train stations. Night trains often fill up, but if space is available, unreserved couchettes or sleepers can be rented on the train from train attendants. Some routes offer roomier 4-person couchettes for about $50 per bunk (may require a 1st class ticket or pass on routes through France.)
Sleeper: A sleeper offers more privacy and comfort than a couchette. You'll pay from $40 to $150 on top of your ticket price for a berth in a still-crowded one-, two-, or three-bed sleeper with a tiny sink. A few overnight trains (Edinburgh sleeper, Spanish international "hotel trains") offer only more expensive sleepers ($70+) and no couchettes (see www.euraide.de/ricksteves for passholder sleeper fares for many routes).
Train
Stations
 |
| Don't worry, even thought the clock says 4:42, the sign at Track 4 says the train will leave 20 minutes late today. Note that it will stop at three different stations in Berlin. Make sure you know which station is your destination! |
Whether you choose to travel with a railpass or tickets, you'll spend a lot of time in train stations. They can be one of the independent traveler's most helpful friends. Take advantage of the assistance they can offer.
Every station has a train information office eager (or, at least, able) to help you with your scheduling. I usually consult the timetables myself first and write down my plan, then confirm this with the information desk. Written communication is easiest and safest. Multi-lingual computer terminals are becoming common and can save you time.
The tourist information office is usually either in the station (in the case of major tourist centers) or nearby — pick up a map with sightseeing information and, if you need it, advice on where to find budget accommodations.
Most stations have ATMs offering great rates 24 hours a day and money exchange desks open longer hours than those on the street (but the rates aren't great). If you're in a jam, you can sometimes change money at ticket windows, too.
Bag storage is still available. Virtually every major station has storage lockers or a luggage-checking service where, for about $5 a day, you can leave your luggage. People traveling light can fit two rucksacks into one locker, cutting their storage costs in half. In some security-conscious train stations, lockers are no longer in use, and travelers must check their bags at a luggage-deposit desk — often after going through an airport-type security check. This service can cost up to $10 per bag.
Many cities have more than one train station. Paris has six, Brussels has three, and even Switzerland's little Interlaken has two. Be sure you know whether your train is leaving from Interlaken East or Interlaken West. A city's stations are generally connected by train, subway, or bus. When arriving in a city (especially on a milk-run train), you may stop at several suburban stations with signs indicating your destination's name with the name of the neighborhood (e.g., Madrid Vallecas or Roma Tiburtina). Don't jump out until you've reached the central station (Madrid Chamartin or Roma Termini). You can also avoid arrival frustrations by finding out if your train stops at a city's main station rather than a suburban one. For instance, a few trains from Rome to "Venice" leave you at Venice's suburban station (Venezia Mestre), where you'll have to catch another train to the main "Venezia S. Lucia" station. To avoid time-consuming back-tracking, ask for help and pay attention.
Rail strikes are a fact of life. Every European country experiences occasional rail strikes. But luckily, information is usually posted in advance in stations and local news media. Look for the word "sciopero" in Italian, "greve" in French, "Streik" in German, or "strike" in English. Sporadic trains lumber down the main lines during most strikes and the few remaining station personnel can tell you the expected schedule. While it is usually possible to get a refund for reservations affected by a strike, there is no refund for partially used railpasses.
Boarding and Riding the Train
 |
| This display maps out the locations of cars on major trains leaving the station. in this example, the third train includes a first-class car (yellow) going to Prague, a second-class car (green) to Prague, and two headed to Schwandorf. Dining cars (red) display the crossed knife and fork. |
Finding the right train is largely a matter of asking questions, letting people help you, and assuming things are logical. I always ask someone on the platform if the train is going where I think it is. (Point to the train or track and ask, "Roma?") Uniformed train personnel can answer any question you can communicate. Speak slowly, clearly, and with caveman simplicity. Be observant. If the loudspeaker comes on, watch the reaction of those around you to figure out if the announcement concerns you. If, after the babble, everyone dashes over to track 15, assume you should, too.
Scope out the train ahead of time. The configuration of many major trains is charted in little display cases on the platform next to where your train will arrive. As you wait, study the display to note where the first-class and sleeping cars are, whether there's a diner, and which cars are going where. Some train schedules will say, in the fine print, "Munich-bound cars in the front, Vienna-bound cars in the rear." Knowing which cars you're eligible for can be especially handy if you'll be competing with a mob for a seat. When expecting a real scramble, I stand on a bench at the far end of the track and study each car as the train rolls by, noting where the most empty places are. If there are several departures within an hour or so and the first train looks hopeless, I'll wait for the next.
Never assume the whole train is going where you are. Each car is labeled separately, because cars are usually added and dropped here and there all along the journey. I'll never forget one hot afternoon in the middle of Spain. My train stopped in the middle of nowhere. There was some mechanical rattling. Then the train pulled away leaving me all alone in my car... all alone in La Mancha. Ten minutes later another train came along, picked up my car, and I was on my way. To survive all of this juggling easily, check to be sure that the city on your car's nameplate is your destination. Confirm with the conductor when he or she comes by to check your ticket or pass.
Train and bus connections are easy. When your route requires changing trains, be ready to hop off upon arrival at the transfer point. An organized traveler can get through a small station in five minutes, but allow 10 – 15 minutes in larger city stations. The Deutsche Bahn's great schedule website shows practical connection times for most travelers (and sometimes even platform numbers), and allows you to request longer layovers. Train stations are also major bus stops, so connections from train to bus are generally no more difficult than crossing the street. Buses go from the stations to nearby towns that lack train service. Many buses, used by commuters, are scheduled to connect with the train and leave promptly. If there's an airport nearby, you'll find bus or rail shuttle services (usually well-marked) at the train station .
Non-smoking trains are the standard in Western Europe. While trains used to offer both smoking and non-smoking compartments, today's trend is smoke-free. Smoking is not allowed on trains in Great Britain, Ireland, Benelux, France, Italy, Switzerland, Austria, Germany, Norway, Sweden, or Poland. Smoking areas are still offered on some trains in Spain (only trains longer than 5 hours), Denmark, and Finland. In many countries, smoking is also restricted inside stations.
Pack a picnic. For the best dining value and variety, stock up at a local deli, bakery, or supermarket. For convenience, major stations offer mini-markets and sandwich shops. Food sold on the train costs more, with options ranging from a basic coffee and sandwich cart, to a more extensive bar car or sit-down dining car (noted in most schedules when available). Only a few trains offer a "complimentary" meal, in first class only (Eurostar to/from London, Thalys through Belgium, and some fast trains in Spain and Scandinavia), covered by a higher seat reservation fee.
Luggage and Safety Onboard
Many train travelers are ripped off while they sleep. Those sleeping for free in regular cars should exercise extreme caution. Women need to be particularly careful. Sleeping in an empty compartment in southern Europe is an open invitation to your own private Casanova. A couchette (berth in a compartment, reserve ahead for about $32 per person) is safer because the car attendant monitors who comes and goes.
Every car has plenty of room for luggage. I've never checked a bag. Simply carry it on and heave it up onto the racks above the seats. My mantra is "pack light pack light pack light." The only thing you should ever need to check would be a bicycle. Even a bike can often be carried on if it's broken down and boxed or if the train has dedicated bike racks. Not every train has a baggage car, so confirm your plans at the station's information office.
Luggage is never completely safe on trains. There is a thief on every train (union rules) planning to grab a bag. Don't be careless. Before leaving my luggage in a compartment, I establish a relationship with everyone there. I'm safe leaving it among mutual guards. Keep your valuables either in a money belt or at least securely attached to your body. For good measure, I clip and fasten my rucksack to the luggage rack. If one tug doesn't take the bag, a thief will usually leave it rather than ask, "Scusi, how is your luggage attached?" You'll hear stories of entire train cars being gassed and robbed in Italy and Spain. It happens — but I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
Use train time wisely. Train travelers, especially Eurailers, spend a lot of time on the train. This time can be dull and unproductive, or you can make a point to do whatever you can on the train to free up time off the train. It makes no sense to sit bored on the train and then, upon arrival, sit in the station for an hour reading your information and deciding where to go for hotels and what to do next.
Spend train time studying, reading, writing postcards or journal entries, eating, organizing, or cleaning. Talk to local people or other travelers. There is so much to be learned. Europeans are often less open and forward than Americans. (To meet more Europeans than Americans, sit in a smoking compartment.) You could sit across from a silent but fascinating and friendly European for an entire train ride, or you could break the ice by asking a question, quietly offering some candy or a cigarette (even if you don't smoke), or showing your Hometown, U.S.A. postcards. Use your phrase book as a 2-way translator. You can start the conversation flowing and the friendship growing.
This article is excerpted from Rick Steves' Europe Through the Back Door, available from our Travel Store.