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When visiting eastern Turkey, you don't have a list of sights. It's a cultural scavenger hunt. Years ago, I was exploring with a tour group and we saw 300 kids in a stadium. We dropped in to see what was going on. They were thrusting their fists into the air, screaming in unison, "We are a secular nation! We are a secular nation!"

I asked my local guide, "What's going on? Don't they like God?"

She said, "Yes, we love God here in Turkey, but — with the rising tide of Islamic fundamentalism just over the border in Iran — we are very concerned about the fragile and precious separation of mosque and state in our country."

I was surprised to learn that their hard-won constitution actually requires that the military overthrow the government if it ever becomes a theocracy.

Turkey still is a secular nation. But lately, with each election, the line between mosque and state gets a little more blurred. Turkey, like so much of today's world, is in a tug-of-war between secular forces and right-wing fundamentalism. And, just as in other Islamic lands, Turkish fundamentalist groups use fear of perceived American meddling to win public support. With the ramped-up economic metabolism that comes with globalization, people whose time-honored ways are threatened cling to what makes their cultures and societies unique. They seek solace in their rituals, religion, and traditions.

About This Entry

You are reading "Defending the Separation of Mosque and State...for Now", an entry posted on 30 December 2009 by Rick Steves.

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Fear of perceived American meddling is quite common in Turkey. I remember being told by an intelligent Turkish lawyer that, indeed, America sends food to Turkey, but that all of the nourishment is removed before it is given to the Turks. Many Turks know only the history that has been written by Turks and little of the outside world, but they are in general a warm, kind, and loving people, and a visit there is most rewarding.

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