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By my first night in Tehran, it was already clear that Iran was an intriguing and complex paradox: playful Revolutionary Guards, four-lane highways intersecting with no traffic lights, “Death to America” murals, and big, warm, welcoming smiles.

Tehran, a youthful and noisy capital city, is the modern heart of this country. It's a smoggy, mile-high metropolis. With a teeming population of 14 million in the metropolitan area, its apartment blocks stretch far into the surrounding mountains.

I stepped out onto the 15th-floor balcony of my fancy hotel room to hear the hum of the city. I enjoyed the view of a vast, twinkling city at twilight. Fresh snow capped the mountains above the ritzy high-rise condos of North Tehran.

As I looked straight down, I noticed the hotel's entryway buzzing with activity, as it was hosting a conference on Islamic unity. The circular driveway was lined by the flags of 30 nations. Huge collections of flags seemed to be common in Iran — perhaps because it provided a handy opportunity to exclude the Stars and Stripes. (The only American flags I saw during the trip were the ones featured in hateful political murals.)

A van with an X-ray security checkpoint was permanently parked outside the entrance, carefully examining the bags of each visitor. It was interesting to see that Iran, a country we feel we need to protect ourselves from, had its own security headaches.

Back in my room, I nursed a tall glass of pomegranate juice. My lips were puckered from munching lemony pistachios from an elegantly woven tray — the best I've ever tasted (and I am a pistachio connoisseur). I cruised the channels on my TV: CNN, BBC, and — rather than shopping channels — lots of programming designed to set the mood for prayer. One channel showed a mesmerizing river with water washing lovingly over shiny rocks. Another featured the sun setting on Mecca, with live coverage of the pilgrim action at the Kaaba. I was a long way from home...and ready to explore.

About This Entry

You are reading "Tehran: Iran's Mile High Metropolis", an entry posted on 26 February 2010 by Rick Steves.

5 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.


Comments  [ top ]

Would it be too much to ask that Rick get to the point? Or are these blogs a bit like a cliff-hanger movie serial in the 1950's? Or The Young and the Restless in 2010? Or, as an astute respondent said a few weeks ago, please don't bore us with what you have already said.

Posted by: b - Feb 26, 2010 2:40 PM
As I said previously, these entries are simply repeats of what he has written in the Travel as a Political Act book and his other writings on Iran. If you haven't bought the book, Rick is determined that you will read it anyway.

Posted by: louisa - Feb 26, 2010 4:17 PM
I think he is setting the mood - much like a movie. I also think that this trip to Iran was such a special trip for Rick because after all the traveling he has done it is hard for him to find something incredibly exciting and new and exotic and whamo! he found it. It's like he's 20 years old again. I've traveled a lot too and I find that it's harder and harder to be impressed (which is a sad thing.) But when you find something great, you can, in the words of Madonna, feel "like a virgin" all over again.

Posted by: Jeff - Feb 26, 2010 6:07 PM
I think it's pretty clear that this blog is an offshoot from his book, so I don't know why people are surprised about this. IMO, this is the politics section since everyone complained so loudly about his posts being full of his opinions under his normal blog. Here he can post, oh, his political musings without everyone getting heir panties in a bunch. I enjoy this one because it's nice to read other peoples thoughts and feelings, and to attempt to understand other political view points. And I agree with Jeff. The best part of any story is setting the mood.

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