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Returning home from Iran to the US, I faced a barrage of questions — mainly, “Why did you go to Iran?” Some were skeptical of my motives, accusing me of just trying to make a buck. (As a businessman, I can assure you there was no risk of a profit in this venture.) Reading the comments readers shared on my blog — some of whom railed against me for “naively” acting as a Jane Fonda-type mouthpiece for an enemy that has allegedly bankrolled terrorists — was also thought-provoking. The whole experience made me want to hug people and scream at the same time. It was intensely human.

I didn't go to Iran as a businessman or as a politician. I went as what I am — a travel writer. I went for the same reasons I travel anywhere: to get out of my own culture and learn, to go to a scary place and find it's not so scary, and to bring distant places to people who've yet to go there. To me, understanding people and their lives is what travel is about, no matter where you go.

I have long held that travel can be a powerful force for peace. Travel promotes understanding at the expense of fear. And understanding bridges conflicts between nations. As Americans, we've endured the economic and human cost of war engulfing Iran's neighbor, Iraq. Seeing Iraq's cultural sites destroyed and its kind people being dragged through the ugliness of that war, I wished I'd been able to go to Baghdad before the war to preserve images of a peacetime Iraq. As our leaders' rhetoric ramped up the possibility of another war — with Iran — I didn't want to miss that chance again. It's human nature to not want to know the people on the receiving end of your “shock and awe” — but to dehumanize these people is wrong. I wanted to put a human face on “collateral damage.”

It's not easy finding a middle ground between “The Great Satan” and “The Axis of Evil.” Some positions (such as President Ahmadinejad denying the Holocaust) are just plain wrong. But I don't entirely agree with many in my own government, either. Yes, there are evil people in Iran. Yes, the rhetoric and policies of Iran's leaders can be objectionable. But there is so much more to Iran than the negative image drummed into us by our media and our government.

I left Iran struck more by what we have in common than by our differences. Most Iranians, like most Americans, simply want a good life and a safe homeland for their loved ones. Just like my country, Iran has one dominant ethnic group and religion that's struggling with issues of diversity and change — liberal versus conservative, modern versus traditional, secular versus religious. As in my own hometown, people of great faith are suspicious of people of no faith or a different faith. Both societies seek a defense against the onslaught of modern materialism that threatens their traditional “family values.” Both societies are suspicious of each other, and both are especially suspicious of each other's government.

When we travel — whether to the “Axis of Evil,” or just to a place where people yodel when they're happy, or fight bulls to impress the girls, or can't serve breakfast until today's croissants arrive — we enrich our lives and better understand our place on this planet. We undercut groups that sow fear, hatred, and mistrust. People-to-people connections help us learn that we can disagree and still coexist peacefully.

Granted, there's no easy solution, but surely getting to know Iranian culture is a step in the right direction. Hopefully, even the most skeptical will appreciate the humanity of 70 million Iranian people. Our political leaders sometimes make us forget that all of us on this small planet are equally precious children of God. Having been to Iran and meeting its people face to face, I feel this more strongly than ever.

About This Entry

You are reading "Reflecting on My Motives in Iran...and the Real Souvenir I Carried Home", an entry posted on 19 April 2010 by Rick Steves.

16 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.


Comments  [ top ]

Sowing fear, hatred and mistrust is not unique to Iranian zealots. The U.S. has its own share of crackpots, marginalized, uninformed - except by demagogues - and ready-to-boil-over "patriots." Timothy McVeigh said about the women and children he killed at Oklahoma City in 1995, that they were not unique and that their survivors were not the only ones who had ever lost spouses and children. In effect, he said, get over it. I think Americans have just as much to fear from the enemy within as from without.

Posted by: Bill Kester - Apr 19, 2010 2:46 PM
Rick.....I agree with your thoughts that knowing other people and their cultures is important, extremely important for all of us. Particularly when mistrust and tension exists, often through lack of knowledge and understanding. Your Iran trip helped me, and many others following what you learned about Iran and the Iranians.......when you stop and think for a moment we all live in a huge universe and share this unique and tiny blue marble together,.....we are all the same race.....the human race....peace in our lifetime....P.S. Love the security word today "gouda".....memories of a favourite country of mine.....

Posted by: Bill27 - Apr 19, 2010 4:51 PM
A majority of the time I disagree with Rick's views. But I respect his right to his own opinions and that he has the guts to allow others to comment. With that said, I understand Rick's point of view. I do not believe the "people" of Iran are evil. But to believe it's a safe place, is well stupid. Between American hikers being imprisoned and voters being attacked, I do no think it's the best time to visit Iran. In time I believe Iran will become a safe place and I'll jump at the chance to visit. But until then it is extremely unwise and irresponsible to promote a region that is so unstable( and I'm not referring to the people). Iran's president has made it abundantly clear how he feels towards the U.S. That alone should raise a warning flag. One tourist kidnapped is one to many.

Posted by: Bob - Apr 20, 2010 9:50 AM
I consider myself to be a moderately adventurous traveler and have relied on Rough Guides, online forums, and word of mouth since my first time I traveled in Europe and then moved on to other continents. I had heard of Rick's books and tv shows and thought them to be fine but for the less adventurous set. After receiving his overall Europe book for becoming a local PBS member, I still think this is the case but I realize the important work Rick is doing to expand the world and mind of the average American to become curious and interested in other cultures, rather than fearful or dismissive. I think that expanding his work to Iran is very important - it is only through travel that we understand one and other and the average American traveler is not going to want to see the Middle East like I would - on my own, without a tour guide, really trying to understand and see how others live day to day. Coming from our armed-to-the-teeth US society, I don't think that Iran poses much of a risk to an average tourist who just wants to buy souvenirs and eat Iranian food. It's important to note that Iran wants tourism, despite the fact that it is not completely open - I think this is a good sign. America has a capacity to move past stereotypes more easily than European nations, in my opinion, and one of the ways we have done that is to happily appropriate aspects of other cultures into our polyglot society. I think a lot of the vitriol we hear today will melt away in the coming decades. Some day Tehran will be full of chubby US tourists with fannypacks buying trinkets like they do now at the Brandenburg Gate and in Morroco. While I am disturbed by some of the unfortunate comments left by people on this blog, Rick seems to have a knack for speaking to people with limited world views, so I am glad they are here. I'm sure for a lot of them, just getting off a cruise ship and doing something on their own is a big step.

Posted by: lcp - Apr 20, 2010 10:54 AM
Thanks for sharing, Rick.

Posted by: Jeff - Apr 21, 2010 1:10 AM
Hey, I watched Ricks report on Iran one year after that I have been there myself. And I totally agree with most of his comments. Iran is one of the most interesting and most exiting countries in the world. People there are so friendly and so hospital. We were two, my boyfriend and me. I am female but mostly I did not wear a scarf. Because I have short hairs and wore quite wide cloth, most people believed I was a boy (the little brother or son of my boyfriend). We mostly stayed at peoples home and therefore had to confess this little detail. We only had interesting discussions following the truth. Also we travelled with a motorcycle, from the border from turkey, to the caspian sea, to teheran and esfahan. We never had any problems. I think Rick could have added some more opinions of people there and some more difficulties, but being aware that he had to be conform to the iranian government, I would say, good job.

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Posted by: nike air max - Jun 11, 2010 2:25 AM
Steve, I just finished your Travel As A Political Act. I feel compelled to thank you for putting into words so many of the things I have been wrestling with over the years and for providing so many ways to get involved with making a better world for all. I applaud your fairness and balance and most of all your guts for saying what you feel needs to be said, regardless of the corporate bottom line. Is there some way to make this book required reading for all? No wait, is there some way to make everyone want to read it? Thanks, Tom Iskiyan

Posted by: Tom Iskiyan - Jul 07, 2010 2:15 PM
Hi Agree with your perspective ... I traveled across Iran in 1990, on route from England to India, and found the people friendly and hospitable ... people are people everywhere; some good, some bad, some ... Simply, the masses of the world are manipulated by elements of Government and rich elites via the media, across the entire world to keep people in their correct place. EG: good citizens for the system. The world as we know it - are told it -is based on misconceptions, greed, power and lies. Everyone should travel and set the world free ...

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Posted by: nousbest - Nov 19, 2011 5:28 AM
hi rick.im an iranian girl.i dont knw u so much but i saw ur pics when u was in iran,today. they were so nice nd im glad when i see that some ppl in this world are like u. ur view about my country is interesting for me and i like to knw more nd more

Posted by: saba - Mar 05, 2012 3:19 AM
im 27 years old nd i hope to see u again in iran, but this time in my city...

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Posted by: jordan retro 7 - Aug 03, 2012 11:11 PM
Hey guys I'm an iranian boy born and live in iran I can assure you most of the iranians like american people not just americans every nationalities. we are humans too and we need each other to keep on living we are not the ones who hate you our government is and we hate our government we all want the peace and friendship because we need it because we need each other but we are living in a way that we hate and the only answer to our requests is bullet i hope and wish someday we can be free

Posted by: Ali - Sep 14, 2012 6:08 PM
I am an Iranian American from California. I watch your travel shows regularly and enjoy very much. I enjoyed your show of your travel to Iran when i watched it several weeks ago. However, I was very disappointed in your false statement of "majority of Iranians are Persian". The fact is that the Farsies (Persian) are minority and theirs leaders (inside or outside Iran) are highly dishonest, Ahmadinejad is a good example. Please correct your statement when you can. Thank you very much. Sincerely, mosen

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