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At the humble waterfront town of Perast, on Montenegro's Bay of Kotor, young guys in swim trunks edged their boats near the dock, jockeying to motor tourists out to the island in the middle of the bay. According to legend, fishermen saw the Virgin Mary in the reef and began a ritual of dropping a stone on the spot every time they sailed by. Eventually the island we see today was created, and upon that island the people of the Bay of Kotor built a fine little church.

I hired a guy with a dinghy to ferry me out and was met by a young woman who gave me a tour. In the sacristy hung a piece of embroidery — a 25-year-long labor of love made by a local parishioner 200 years ago. It was as exquisite as possible, lovingly made with the finest materials available: silk and the woman's own hair. I could trace her laborious progress through the line of cherubs that ornamented the border. As the years went by, the hair of the angels (like the hair of their devout artist) turned from dark brown to white. Humble and anonymous as she was, she had faith that her work was worthwhile and would be appreciated — as it is, two centuries later, by a steady parade of travelers from distant lands.

I've been at my work for over 25 years now. I also have a faith that it (my work, if not my hair) will be appreciated. That's perhaps less humble than the woman was, but her work reassured me that we live on through our deeds. Her devotion to her creation (as well as her creator) is an inspiration to do both good and lasting work. While traveling, I'm often struck by how people give meaning to life by producing and contributing.

I didn't take a photograph of the embroidery. For some reason, I didn't even take notes. At the moment, I didn't realize I was experiencing the highlight of my day. The impression of the woman's tenderly created embroidery needed — like a good red wine — time to breathe. That was a lesson for me. I was already mentally on to the next thing. When the power of the impression opened up, it was rich and full-bodied...but I was long gone. If travel is going to have the impact on you that it should, you have to climb into those little dinghies and reach for those experiences — the best ones won't come to you. And you have to let them breathe.

Back in town, I had a bela kava ("white coffee," as a latte is called here) and watched kids coming home from school. Two older girls walked by happily spinning the same kind of batons my sisters spun when I was a tyke. And then a sweet younger girl walked by all alone — lost in thought, carrying a tattered violin case.

Even in a country without its own currency, in a land where humble is everything's middle name, parents can find an old violin and manage to give their little girls grace and culture. Letting that impression breathe, it made me happier than I imagined it would.

Traveling in war-torn former Yugoslavia, I see how little triumphs can be big ones. I see hardscrabble nations with big aspirations. And I see the value of history in understanding our travels, and the value of travel in understanding our history.

About This Entry

You are reading "Let the Experience Breathe", an entry posted on 17 July 2009 by Rick Steves.

3 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.


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Having traveled on RS tours into nearly "double digits", my partner, a friend and I went on the Eastern European jaunt this summer and found it among the most rewarding of all of our travel experiences. While visiting Hungary, our Hungarian guide shared with us about the toll on her compatriots during the Nazi and Communist periods. I naively asked her how they could tolerate the injustices of the rough-shod Communists on them as a majority in their own cities and villages. I asked why they, as a majority in their own land, could not do anything about it. And she stated so matter-of-factly, "Why, we lost the wars." It had never even occurred to me how fate could put one of the losing end of both WWII and Soviet domination. We, the can-do Americans, never even give it a passing notion of what it would be to be "dominated" by someone else, much less on our own soil. We are probably "dominated" more so by issues of our own making: personal and corporal debt; slothful attitudes towards education; greed when moving our heavy metal around consuming ancient fossil fuels...and the list goes on. We have created our own deadly sins. But to be at the mercy of someone else as a result of the foolishness or strategic errors of one's own leaders. Those first hand experiences are invaluable. I had a huge helping of humble pie that took a bit of a knick out of my sterling silver American armor. In a small way, I hope I have a broader perspective on the plight of the peoples of Central Europe.

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