Rick Steves' Travel as a Political Act Blog - The Tyranny of the Majority, Part 1

The Tyranny of the Majority, Part 1

Once, while riding the bus from Munich out to Dachau, I learned a lesson about the tyranny of the majority. En route to the infamous concentration camp memorial, I sat next to an old German woman. I smiled at her weakly as if to say, “I don't hold your people's genocidal atrocities against you.” She glanced at me and sneered down at my camera. Suddenly, surprising me with her crusty but fluent English, she ripped into me. “You tourists come here not to learn, but to hate,” she seethed.

Pulling the loose skin down from a long-ago-strong upper arm, she showed me a two-sided scar. “When I was a girl, a bullet cut straight through my arm,” she said. “Another bullet killed my father. The war took many good people. My father ran a Grüss Gott shop.”

I was stunned by her rage. But I sensed desperation on her part to simply unload her story on one of the hordes of tourists who tramp daily through her hometown to ogle at an icon of the Holocaust.

I asked, “What do you mean, a Grüss Gott shop?” She explained that in Bavaria, shopkeepers greet customers with a “Grüss Gott” (“May God greet you”). During the Third Reich, it was safer to change to the Nazi greeting, “Sieg Heil.” It was a hard choice. Each shopkeeper had to make it. Everyone in Dachau knew which shops were Grüss Gott shops and which were Sieg Heil shops. Over time there were fewer and fewer Grüss Gott shops. Pausing, as if mustering the energy for one last sentence, she stood up and said, “My father's shop was a Grüss Gott shop to the end,” then stepped off the bus.

Conflicts between the majority and the minority persist in today's Europe. Consider Northern Ireland, were the population is divided between Protestants (supporters of British rule) and Catholics (who identify with the Irish). While the familiar Union Jack of the UK is the "official" flag of Northern Ireland, minority Catholics who'd like to see Ireland united see it as a symbol of oppression. Unfortunately, they no longer consider it their flag, and call it “the Butcher's Apron” instead.

For a lesson in the power of symbolism, visit a town where about two-thirds of the community is Protestant and one-third is Catholic. These towns can be decked out like a Union Jack fantasy...or nightmare, if you happen to be Catholic. The curbs are painted red, white, and blue. Houses fly huge British flags. Streets lead under trellises blotting out the sky with flapping Union Jacks. (Not too long ago, many towns like these even came with the remains of a burned-out Catholic church.) A Catholic walking down a street strewn with this British symbolism can only be quiet and accept it. To independence-minded Catholics, the Union Jack symbolizes not a united nation, but the tyranny of the majority. The result: There is no real flag of Northern Ireland.

Before traveling to Europe, I never really grasped the sadness of a society where a majority-rules mentality can, when taken to extremes, abuse a minority and bully it into silent submission.

About This Entry

You are reading "The Tyranny of the Majority, Part 1", an entry posted on 26 August 2009 by Rick Steves.

6 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.

Previous Entry, Immigrants, Treasure Your Heritage...and Melt, posted Aug 24 2009

Next Entry, The Tyranny of the Majority, Part 2, posted Aug 28 2009

Comments [ top ]

Reminds me of a certain administration that our country recently experienced. What was it? "If you'r not with us, you're against us." -GB Although I'm elated that chapter of our history is in the past, it disturbs me (but doesn't surprise me) that our society was so susceptible to fearful mindless mob mentality. It was very difficult to voice any opposition to our administrations policies under the culture of fear that was fostered under the previous regime. I was fortunate to have had the opportunity to visit Dachau. The lady is right, we come because we've heard the stories and seen the movies and we all hate the Nazi's. But on the way out, now that's where you can look into the faces of the hordes of visitors and know that most of them learned something. Whatever it was, I think anyone who visits a concentration camp learns something that they can take into the world and make it a better place. Thanks Rick to you and all your staff. Keep making a difference.

Posted by: David - Aug 26, 2009 5:56 PM

I believe the GWB quote applied to acts of terrorism. Is there a middle ground? David, are you a middle of the roader on terrorism? It seems the voices of opposition were loud and vehement the past several years. You may want to ask Joe Wurzelbacher about fearing to voice opposition to a political candidate, not an elected leader but just a candidate. Now ask corporate heads about fearing administrations today! Pray Jefferson's Tree of Liberty is not too thirsty yet. Each time I have been to Dachau I don't think people are coming with the intent to hate, although I do not know how anyone could actually know others hearts. I believe people come to not forget. I fail to see how one can feel much other than hate for the Nazis, do you admire the fact they gave their country National Health Care? The more you learn about them, the more their gift for pure evil shines. The bullet scarred woman on the bus was obviously not Nazi, and just as one can feel supreme empathy with Rolf Jung for his war experiences one can feel the same for the woman on the bus and countless other German citizens. I always find myself thinking about the older Germans I see enjoying life at the Viktualienmarkt and how many of them may have been Nazi members.

Posted by: KenK - Aug 26, 2009 7:55 PM

For those of us who oppose the Obama health plan and are willing to speak out about the leadership in the Democratic controlled congress claim we are NAZI'S.

Posted by: Jim - Aug 26, 2009 10:02 PM

Hi! I've been incommunicado for a while. Had a very long and very pleasant visit back to the States this summer. My only comment is that this forum is a perfect example of "Godwin's law" in action (google it). I've been around long enough to recall Reagan being called a Nazi, Clinton being called a Nazi, W being called a Nazi, and now Obama being called a Nazi. (see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYlZiWK2Iy8 ). To paraphrase Mark Twain: The news of Hitler's resurrection is greatly exaggerated. I'm fearful to stick my toe in the healthcare debate, but --as a long time resident of Austria-- I can say that this very conservative society seems to function well with universal health care. I even have a friend who has now had two separate battles with leukaemia and she says the Austrian system has served her well (anecdotal, I know). Generally, I feel that it is sad that our great nation does such a shoddy job of health care and that we pay too much for it. More anecdotes: I remember being shocked to learn that a middle class friend's wife (with "good" coverage) was "rationed" by her HMO to only one night in the hospital after an emergency c-section. Maybe I'm hopelessly old fashioned, but I was shocked. Whatever. The point is that studies (sites below) show that our current system isn't working. Can't we do better? The tone of the debate is what bothers me. In Western Europe, politicians on both the right and left can generally agree that universal coverage is a reason goal, yet here in the states we are reduced to "reductio ad Hitlerum." http://www.reuters.com/article/latestCrisis/idUSN07651650 http://www.who.int/whr/2000/media_centre/press_release/en/index.html Unrelated: Am sad to report that a large percentage of the grape crop immediately around Vienna was destroyed by a big hail storm in July. Bad news for wine lovers!

Posted by: Thomas, Vienna - Aug 27, 2009 3:52 AM

Thomas- thanks for the playing the "Godwin's Law" card. Sorry to hear about the grape crop. Austrian wines (and original analogies) are underrated. Tim

Posted by: Tim - Sep 06, 2009 7:40 AM

Haha. I woke up down today. You've chereed me up!

Posted by: Janess - Dec 06, 2012 7:59 AM