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In the midst of our relative affluence, Americans seem to operate with a mindset of scarcity — focusing on what we don't have or what we might loose. Meanwhile, Salvadorans I met, with so little, embrace life with a mindset of abundance — thankful for the simple things they do have.

My educational tour group dropped in on Beatriz and her daughter Veronica, who live in a shack on El Salvador's minimum wage. The place was as clean and inviting as a tin-roofed shack with a dirt floor can be. Beatriz sat us down and told of raising a family through a Civil War:

"The war moved into the capital, and our little house happened to sit between the police headquarters and the guerillas. At night I hid with my children under the bed as bullets flew. For ten years, the war put us in never-ending fear. Mothers feared the forced recruitment of our sons. Finally, we arranged a peace. But the peace accords didn't benefit us poor people." She explained how this "peace" is no more than an acknowledgement of the futility of a continued struggle. To this day people are unhappy. In some regions, there is even talk about taking up arms again. Beatriz said, "If war started again, I think some of us would die from the stress."

About her life, she said, "My house becomes a lake in the rainy season. Still, we are thankful to have this place. Our land was very cheap. We bought it from a man receiving death threats. He fled to America. While we make $144 a month in the city, the minimum in the country is much less — only $70 a month. Nearly half the families in our country are living on $1 a day per person. To survive, you need a home that is already in your family. You have one light bulb, corn, and beans. That is about all. Living on minimum wage is more difficult now than before the war. Before, electricity cost about $1 a month. Water was provided. Today electricity costs $19 and water $14 — that's about one-quarter of my monthly wage. My mother has a tumor in her head. There is no help possible. I have no money."

Beatriz's 22-year-old daughter, Veronica, was as strikingly beautiful as one of the Latina stars so hot on the popular scene. Veronica dreamed of going to the US, but the "coyote" (as the guy who ferries refugees across Mexico and into the US is called) would charge $6,000, and she would probably be raped before reaching the US border as a kind of "extra fee."

As a chicken with a bald neck pecked at my shoe, I surveyed the ingenious mix of mud, battered lumber, and corrugated tin that made up this house. It occurred to me that poverty erodes ethnic distinctions. There's something boring and uniform about desperation.

Beatriz and Veronica prepared for us their basic meal: a corn tortilla. As I ate a thick corn cake hot off the griddle, it felt like I was taking communion. In that tortilla were tales of peasants who bundled their tortillas into a bandana and ran through the night as American helicopters swept across their skies.

For me, munching on that tortilla provided a sense of solidarity — wimpy...but still solidarity. I was what locals jokingly call a "round-trip revolutionary" (someone from a stable and wealthy country who cares enough to come down here...but only with a return plane ticket in hand). Still, having had the opportunity to sit and talk with Beatriz and Veronica, even a round-trip revolutionary flies home with an indelible understanding of the human reality of that much-quoted statistic, "Half of humanity is trying to live on $2 a day."

About This Entry

You are reading "Under a Corrugated Tin Roof with Beatriz", an entry posted on 02 October 2009 by Rick Steves.

3 replies to this entry. Add your comment below.


Comments  [ top ]

One can't help noticing the difference between this blog and your regular travel blog. While you tackle important issues here, folks just don't respond. On the other blog, over 30 people have responded to the challenge of the name for the new series, are having fun doing it, and are secretly (or not so secretly) glad that that is a non-political issue. Like it or not, travel tips and fun are what people look for on your blogs.

Posted by: louisa - Oct 05, 2009 10:05 AM
Rick, I LOVE this new blog. Please don't stop being thoughtful and speaking your heart. If someone has another opinion, they can certainly begin their own travel blog.

Posted by: Sonya - Oct 05, 2009 1:52 PM
Rick, I am a huge fan that has watched your shows and visited the web sites for years. You have the right to post your opinions and I respect that. I hope that you don't become to utopian as I have quit watching much thats on TV now because I just could not seperate the actors/musicians from the radicalism they espouse and their art. Central and South America have been truly deprived of good leaders over the years and the economy's there show it. The repression will continue with Chavez,Ortega,Castro and others still in charge there. Now that's a crusade for a round trip revolutionary. Still a huge fan and keep on traveling Regards, Bruce in Fla.

Posted by: Bruce in Florida - Oct 18, 2009 11:59 AM

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