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Amsterdam and Dutch Side Trips: Travel Details

This is a quick and handy source for details on the sights, hotels, tour guides and restaurants featured in the "Amsterdam and Dutch Side Trips" show. For much more (and updates), see this year's edition of Rick Steves' Amsterdam, Bruges & Brussels guidebook.

Our Lord in the Attic

While Amsterdam has long been known for its tolerant attitudes, 16th-century politics forced Dutch Catholics to worship discreetly. Near the train station in the Red Light District, you'll find a fascinating hidden Catholic church filling the attic of three 17th-century merchants' houses. Don't miss the silver collection and other exhibits of daily life from 300 years ago (€7, covered by I amsterdam Card, Mon–Sat 10:00–17:00, Sun and holidays 13:00–17:00, closed Jan 1 and April 29, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40, tel. 020/624-6604, www.museumamstelkring.nl).

Dutch Resistance Museum

This is an impressive look at how the Dutch resisted their Nazi occupiers from 1940 to 1945. You'll see propaganda movie clips, study forged ID cards under a magnifying glass, and read about ingenious and courageous efforts — big and small — to hide local Jews from the Germans and undermine the Nazi regime (€5, covered by I amsterdam Card, Tue–Fri 10:00–17:00, Sat–Mon 12:00–17:00, well-described in English, no flash photos, tram #9 from station, Plantage Kerklaan 61, tel. 020/620-2535, www.verzetsmuseum.org).

Rembrandt's House

A middle-aged Rembrandt lived here after his wife's death, as his popularity and wealth dwindled down to obscurity and bankruptcy (1639–1658). Tour the place this way: See the 10-minute introductory video (Dutch and English showings alternate); explore Rembrandt's reconstructed house (filled with exactly what his bankruptcy inventory of 1656 said he owned); imagine him at work in his reconstructed studio; marvel at his personal collection of exotic objects, many of which he included in paintings; ask the printer to explain the etching process (drawing in soft wax on a metal plate that's then dipped in acid, inked up, and printed); then, for the finale, enjoy several rooms of original, marvelous, and well-described Rembrandt etchings. I came away wanting to know more about the man and his art (€7.50, covered by I amsterdam Card, €13.50 combo-ticket includes Holland Experience, Sat-Thu 10:00–17:00, Fri 10:00-21:00, Jodenbreestraat 4, tel. 020/520-0400, www.rembrandthuis.nl).    

Van Gogh Museum

Near the Rijksmuseum, this remarkable museum features works by the troubled Dutch artist whose art seemed to mirror his life. During the first half of 2006, the museum hosts a special Rembrandt/Caravaggio exhibition (€10, covered by I amsterdam Card, audioguide-€4, daily 10:00–18:00, Fri until 22:00, Paulus Potterstraat 7, tel. 020/570-5200, www.vangoghmuseum.nl).

Haarlem's Frans Hals Museum

Haarlem is the hometown of Frans Hals, the foremost Dutch portrait painter of the 17th-century Golden Age. This refreshing museum, once an almshouse for old men back in 1610, displays many of his greatest paintings, done with his nearly Impressionistic style. You'll see group portraits and take-me-back paintings of old-time Haarlem (€7, Tue–Sat 11:00–17:00, Sun 12:00–17:00, closed Mon, Groot Heiligland 62, tel. 023/511-5775, www.franshalsmuseum.nl). Look for the 250-year-old dollhouse on display in a former chapel.

Alsmeer Flower Auction

Get a bird's-eye view of the huge Dutch flower industry. Wander on elevated walkways (through what's claimed to be the biggest commercial building on earth) over literally trainloads of freshly cut flowers. About half of all the flowers exported from Holland are auctioned off here in four huge auditoriums. Stop at one of the "listening posts" for on-the-spot information (€4.50, April-Sept Mon-Fri 7:00-11:00, Oct-March Mon-Fri 7:30–11:00, closed Sat–Sun year-round, the auction wilts after 9:30 and on Thu, gift shop, cafeteria, tel. 0297/392-185, www.aalsmeer.com).