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Istanbul

Rick Steves' Europe: Episode # 512

Where Europe comes face to face with Asia, we'll explore the fascinating, multilayered city of Istanbul. We'll lose our way in the Grand Bazaar and munch our way through the famously fragrant Spice Market. We'll follow the fall of the ancient capital of Byzantium and the rise of Islam at the city's ancient wall, and wander among the treasures of the Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace. To escape the city bustle, we'll cruise the churning waters of the Bosphorus, make friends over backgammon, and try a traditional Turkish bath.

Travel Details

Blue Mosque

This famous and gorgeous mosque is one of the world's finest. It was built in just seven years (1609–1616) by the architect Mehmet Aga, who also rebuilt Kaaba (the holiest shrine of Islam — the giant black cube at the center of the mosque in the holy city of Mecca). Locals call it the Sultan Ahmet Mosque for the ruler who financed it, but travelers know it as the Blue Mosque because of the rich color that dominates the interior (free, generally open daily one hour after sunrise until one hour before sunset, closed to visitors five times a day for prayer, in the Sultanahmet district).

Hagia Sophia

For centuries, it was known as Megalo Ekklesia, the "Great Church" of Constantinople. The Greeks called it Hagia Sophia, meaning "Divine Wisdom," an attribute of God. The Turkish version is Aya Sofya. But no matter what you call it, this place — first a church, then a mosque, and now a museum — is one of the most important and impressive structures on the planet. Emperor Justinian built Hagia Sophia between A.D. 532 and 537. For 900 years, it served as the seat of the Orthodox Patriarch of Constantinople — the "eastern Vatican." Replete with shimmering mosaics and fine marble, Hagia Sophia was the single greatest architectural achievement of the Byzantine Empire. When the Ottomans took Constantinople in 1453, Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror — impressed with the Great Church's beauty — converted it into an imperial mosque. Hagia Sophia remained Istanbul's most important mosque for five centuries. In the early days of the Turkish Republic (1930s), Hagia Sophia was converted again, this time into a museum. It retains unique elements of both the Byzantine and Ottoman empires and their respective religions, Orthodox Christianity and Islam. In short, Hagia Sophia epitomizes the greatest achievements of both East and West, rolled into one (open Tue–Sun, closed Mon; in the Sultanahmet district, tel. 0212/528-4500).

Spice Market

Built in the mid-17th century, this market hall was gradually taken over by merchants dealing in spices, herbs, medicinal plants, and pharmaceuticals. While it's quite a touristy scene today, most stalls still sell much of the same products, and the air is heavy with the aroma of exotic spices. Locals call it the Misir Carsisi (Egyptian Bazaar) because it was once funded by taxes paid by Egypt (open Mon–Sat, closed Sun, at the Old Town end of the Galata Bridge, near the Eminönü tram stop).

Topkapi Palace

The word Topkapi means "cannon door" — a reference to one of the gates on the old Byzantine wall along the Sea of Marmara. Originally known as the sultan's "New Palace," Topkapi was gradually enlarged over the centuries. Each reigning sultan contributed his own flourishes, according to the style of the era. So, unlike many European palaces, which were built all at once, Topkapi Palace was constructed gradually and organically over time. The result is a funhouse of architectural styles. Since no two buildings of the complex were built at the same time, they're all on different levels — as you pass through the doorways, you'll almost always step up or down. And yet, this hodgepodge is totally functional — each addition had its purpose, and was suited for its time. Taken together, the visual mess of Topkapi Palace adds to a unique sum that represents the sultan lifestyle. It's in the Sultanahmet district; the easiest approach is from the Sultanahmet tram stop (open Wed–Mon, closed Tue; tel. 0212/512-0480).

Updated for 2010.