Paris: Grand & Intimate: Travel Details
This is a quick and handy source for details on the sights, hotels, tour guides and restaurants featured in the "Paris Grand & Intimate" show. For much more (and updates), see this year's edition of Rick Steves' Paris guidebook.
Museum of Jewish History and Art
This fascinating museum is located in a beautifully restored Marais mansion and tells the story of Judaism throughout Europe, from the Roman destruction of Jerusalem to the theft of famous artworks during World War II (€7, not covered by Museum Pass, Mon–Fri 11:00–18:00, Sun 10:00–18:00, closed Sat).
The Louvre
Europe's oldest, biggest, greatest, and second-most-crowded museum (after the Vatican). Housed in a U-shaped, 16th-century palace (accentuated by a 20th-century glass pyramid), the Louvre is Paris' top museum and one of its key landmarks. It's home to Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and hall after hall of Greek and Roman masterpieces, medieval jewels, Michelangelo statues, and paintings by the greatest artists from the Renaissance to the Romantics (€8.50, €6 after 18:00 on Wed and Fri, free on first Sun of month, covered by Museum Pass, Wed–Mon 9:00–18:00, closed Tue. Most wings open Wed and Fri until 21:45. Galleries start closing 30 minutes early. The last entry is 45 minutes before closing. Tel. 01 40 20 51 51, recorded info tel. 01 40 20 53 17, www.louvre.fr).
St. Sulpice
For pipe-organ enthusiasts, this is one of Europe's great musical treats. The Grand Orgue at St. Sulpice Church has a rich history, with a succession of 12 world-class organists (including Charles-Marie Widor and Marcel Dupré) going back 300 years. Widor started the tradition of opening the loft to visitors after the 10:30 service on Sundays. Daniel Roth continues to welcome guests in three languages while playing five keyboards at once. (See www.danielrothsaintsulpice.org for his exact dates and concert plans.) The 10:30 Sunday Mass is followed by a high-powered 25-minute recital at about 11:35. Then, just after noon, the small, unmarked door is opened (left of entry as you face the rear). Visitors scamper like sixteenth notes up spiral stairs, past the 19th-century Stairmasters that five men once pumped to fill the bellows, into a world of 7,000 pipes. Here, they watch the master play during the next Mass. You'll generally have 30 minutes to kill (there's a plush lounge) before the organ plays; visitors can leave at any time. If late or rushed, show up around 12:30 and wait at the little door. As someone leaves, you can slip in, climb up, and catch the rest of the performance (church open daily 7:30–19:30).