Eating in Orvieto
La Palomba features game meats, steak, and truffle specialties in a wood-paneled dining room (Thu–Tue 12:30–14:15 & 19:30–22:00, closed Wed, reservations smart, just off Piazza della Repubblica at Via Cipriano Manente 16, tel. 0763-343-395).
Antico Bucchero makes a nice splurge with its classy candlelit ambience and good food (€8 pastas, €10 secondi, daily 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–24:00, indoor/outdoor seating, a half-block south of Corso Cavour, between Torre del Moro and Piazza della Repubblica at Via de Cartari 4, tel. 0763-341-725).
L'Antica Trattoria dell'Orso offers well-prepared Umbrian cuisine paired with fine wines in a homey and peaceful atmosphere. Ciro and chef Gabriele will steer you toward the freshest seasonal plates (Wed–Sun 12:30–14:00 & 19:30–22:00, closed Mon–Tue, just off Piazza della Repubblica, Via della Misericordia 18/20, tel. 0763-341-642).
Osteria San Patrizio, near the funicular, presents memorable and creative versions of traditional Umbrian specialties. Owner/chef Ernesto says, "Cooking is easy — only buy the best ingredients and don't overcook it." While elegant, the atmosphere is relaxed and the service attentive (Tue–Sat 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–23:00, Sun 12:00–15:00, closed Mon, Corso Cavour 312, tel. 0763-341-245).
Trattoria la Grotta, pricey and classy, prides itself on serving only the freshest food and good wine. The décor is Signorelli mod and the ambience is quiet, with courteous service. Owner/chef Franco — who's been at it for 40 years — promises diners a free coffee, grappa, limoncello, or vin santo with this book in 2007 (closed Tue, Via Luca Signorelli 5, tel. 0763-341-348).
Trattoria d'Aronne, near the Piazza del Popolo, is bright and casual with indoor/outdoor seating and an ever-changing variety of moderately-priced Umbrian dishes and wood-fired pizzas. Rolanda will give you recommendations while her son and sister do the cooking. Ask to see the second-century B.C. Etruscan pozzo (well) near the kitchen (Fri-Wed 12:00-16:00 & 19:00-23:30, closed Thu, 10 percent discount with this book in 2007, Piazza Ranieri 1A-2, tel. 076-334-4456).
For dessert, try the deservedly popular gelateria Pasqualetti (daily 12:30–24:00, closed in winter, next to left transept of church, Piazza Duomo 14; another branch is at Corso Cavour 56, open until 20:30 during winter).
Enoteca Tozzi, to the left of the Duomo, serves up rustic panini — try the roast suckling pig (porchetta, por-KET-tah) if it's available (daily 8:30–21:00, 9:00–20:00 in winter, Piazza Duomo 13, tel. 0763-344-393).