Eating in Sorrento
Downtown Splurges
In a town proud to have no McDonald's, consider eating well for a few extra bucks. Both of these places are worthwhile splurges in the old center.
Ristorante il Buco, once the cellar of an old monastery, is now a small dressy restaurant serving delightfully presented, top-quality food under a grand, rustic arch. The dashing team of cooks build their sophisticated dishes in a state-of-the-art kitchen, while a plasma-screen TV shows all the action to diners. They showcase good wine (especially from Campania) and offer snappy service. The owner, Peppe, designs his menu around whatever's fresh, and travels in the winter to assemble a wine list sure to offer connoisseurs something new and memorable. He enjoys explaining each of the many courses of his €75 tasting menù (€16 pastas, €22 secondi, always a good vegetarian selection, dinners run about €50 plus wine, Thu–Tue 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–23:00, closed Wed and Jan, just off Piazza Sant'Antonino; facing the basilica, go under the grand arch on the left and immediately enter the restaurant at II Rampa Marina Piccola 5; tel. 081-878-2354). Reservations are generally necessary to sit inside under their elegant vault. For outside dining, I'd go elsewhere.
L'Antica Trattoria serves more traditional cuisine from an inviting menu in a romantico candlelit ambience. It has intimate nooks ideal for small groups. Aldo and sons will take good care of you in a place busy with enthusiastic eaters and professional but contagiously fun waiters (€12 pastas, €25 secondi; menùs for €29, €35, and €40; always vegetarian options). Its wine list is more predictable, featuring well-known wines from the region. Walk around the labyrinthine interior before you select a place to sit (daily 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–23:30, closed Mon Nov–Feb, air-con, shaded verdant terrace, non-smoking sections, reservations smart, Via Padre R. Giuliani 33, tel. 081-807-1082).
Eating Well and Cheaply Downtown
Pizzeria Giardiniello is a family show, offering good food, friendly smiles, and a peaceful, tropical garden setting (€5 pizzas and pastas, daily 12:00–24:00, Via Accademia 7, tel. 081-878-4616). Like an old sailor checking the lines, Franco makes sure you're well-fed. Franco's son, Luigi, runs a wine-and-tapas bar downstairs (nightly 18:00 until past midnight).
Pizzeria Aurora, located on Piazza Tasso, makes 50 different kinds of prizewinning pizzas and calzones (€6–10). Sit inside to watch the pizzaiolo create your dinner, or outside for optimum people-watching (daily 12:00–16:00 & 18:30–24:00, east of taxi stand at Piazza Tasso 10-11, tel. 081-878-1248).
Ristorante Pizzeria da Gigino, lively and small, makes huge, tasty, Naples-style pizzas in their wood-burning oven (Wed–Mon 12:00–15:00 & 18:30–24:00, closed Tue but daily July–Aug; just off Piazza Sant'Antonino, take first road to the left of Sant'Antonino as you face him, pass under archway and take first left to Via degli Archi 15; tel. 081-878-1927).
Sant'Antonino's nearby offers friendly service, red-checkered tablecloths, an outdoor patio spotted with lemon trees, an open kitchen, decent prices, and edible food (€7 pastas and pizzas, daily 12:00–16:00 & 19:00–24:00, closed Wed Dec–March, just off Piazza Sant'Antonino on Santa Maria delle Grazie 6, tel. 081-877-1200).
Pizzeria da Franco seems to be the local favorite for basic, casual pizza in a fun, untouristy atmosphere. There's nothing fancy about this place — just hot sandwiches and great pizzas served on waxed paper in a square tin. It's filled with a youthful crowd that doesn't mind the plastic cups (€6 pizzas, daily 11:30-24:00, just across from Lemon Grove Garden on busy Corso Italia at #265, tel. 081-877-2066).
Picnics: You'll find many markets and take-out pizzerias in the old town. If you fancy a picnic dinner on your balcony, on the hotel terrace, or in the Lemon Grove Garden, get a pizza to go at Pizzeria da Franco (listed above) or at the Standa supermarket (Mon–Sat 8:30–13:20 & 16:30–20:25, closed Sun, Corso Italia 223).
Gelato: A few doors downhill from L'Antica Trattoria, Davide Gelato has many repeat customers (so many flavors, so little time). Walk the most enticing chorus line in Italy before ordering. Sample Profumi di Sorrento (an explosive sorbet of mixed local fruits) and lemon mousse (mid-June–mid-Sept daily 9:30–24:00, otherwise closed Mon, 2 blocks off Corso Italia at Via Padre R. Giuliani 39).
Dinner with Sea Views
For a decent dinner con vista, the following places come with great view terraces.
Ristorante Delfino gets their seafood right off the fishermen's boats at Marina Grande, and serves it up in big portions to hungry locals in a quiet and bright pier restaurant. It's lovingly run by effervescent Luisa, her brothers Andrea and Roberto, and her husband Antonio. They take good care of their guests, play Dean Martin, and give travelers who carry this book a little glass of limoncello to cap the experience (daily 11:30–15:30 & 18:30–23:00, closed Nov–Easter; at Marina Grande, facing the water, go all the way to the left and follow signs; tel. 081-878-2038). If you're here for lunch, there's a great sundeck and lounge chairs.
Trattoria da Emilia, on the tranquil Marina Grande waterfront, is inexpensive and good for straightforward, typical-Sorrentine home-cooking, including maccheroni, gnocchi di mamma, and fresh fish (daily 12:00-15:00 & 19:30–22:30, no reservations, indoor and outdoor seating, cash only, tel. 081-807-2720).
The Foreigners' Club Restaurant is a place where the English Patient could recuperate. It has the best sea views in town (under breezy palms), live music nightly at 21:00 (April-Oct, no cover), and passable meals. It's a good spot for dessert or an after-dinner limoncello (March–Oct daily, bar opens at 9:30, snacks served 11:30–15:30, dinner 19:00–23:00, closed in winter, Via L. De Maio 35, tel. 081-877-3263).
Hotel Restaurant La Tonnarella takes pride in its kitchen and service. While its dining hall is elegant, its incredible view terrace is where you'll want to be on balmy evenings. This is a good bet for those staying on Via Capo, since it's 100 yards from those recommended hotels (€8 pastas, €15 secondi, fine antipasto misto buffet and good wine list, open daily, Via Capo 31, tel. 081-878-1153). On the opposite side of town, Hotel Loreley's restaurant is a decent cliffside, view-terrace bet.