Sleeping in Sorrento
$$$ Grand Hotel Ambasciatori is a sumptuous four-star hotel with 100 rooms, a cliffside setting, a sprawling garden, and a pool. This is Humphrey Bogart-land, with plush public spaces, a relaxing stay-a-while ambience, and a free elevator to its "private beach" — actually a sundeck built out over the water, shared with Hotel Loreley (viewless Db-€230, best value — seaview Db-€310, closed Jan–March, air-con, some balconies, parking, Via Califano 18, tel. 081-878-2025, fax 081-807-1021, www.manniellohotels.it, ambasciatori@manniellohotels.it).
$$ Hotel La Meridiana Sorrento, a fine three-star place with everything but character, offers business-class public spaces and 45 modern rooms (Sb-€124, Db-€140, Tb-€190, required Aug half-pension at Db-€208 and Tb-€289, prices soft when slow, €10 extra for air-con, big rooftop terrace with grand views, next door to public Lemon Grove Garden, Via Rota 1, tel. 081-807-3535, fax 081-807-3484, www.lameridianasorrento.com, info@lameridianasorrento.com).
$$ Hotel Loreley — likely closed sometime in 2007 for a major renovation — is a rambling, spacious, colorful, old Sorrentine villa that feels like a sanatorium. Of its 27 rooms, 19 have seaview balconies, but the unpredictable management can't guarantee you'll get a view room. The noisy streetside rooms lack views but are air-conditioned, which helps drown out the traffic noise. A €3 elevator takes you to the hotel's "beach," a sundeck built out over the water and shared with Hotel Ambasciatori (non-view Db-€90, seaview Db-€95, required Aug half-pension at Db-€125 but the dinner's decent, prices good through 2007 with this book, some free parking, Via Califano 2, tel. 081-807-3187, fax 081-532-9001, email info@sorrentohotelmignon.com but make it clear you're booking for Loreley). The attached restaurant has a terrace with a panoramic view of the sea.
$ Pensione Mara is a dirty-ashtray, moldy-bathroom kind of place, with five, simple ground-floor rooms in a dull building with a good location (Db-€45, Tb-€65, Qb-€85, add €5 in July-Sept, these prices promised through 2007 with this book, cash only, no breakfast, from Via Capasso, turn right at Hotel La Meridiana to Via Rota 5; tel. & fax 081-878-3665, Adelle speaks a little English).
In the Town Center
$$$ Hotel Antiche Mura is a 50-room, four-star place — sophisticated, elegant, and plush, with all the amenities you could need in a hotel. Just a block off the main square, it's cheaper and quieter than others hotels nearby because it faces a ravine (high-windowed Db-€140, Db-€180, balcony Db-€250, Michele promises 15 percent off in 2007 with this book, about a third less Nov-March, a block inland from Piazza Tasso at Via Fuorimura 7, tel. 081-807-3523, fax 081-807-1323, www.hotelantichemura.com, info@hotelantichemura.com).
$$ Hotel del Corso, a funky, Old World, three-star hotel, is central, family-run, and comfortable, with 26 spacious rooms. But the staff can be curt (Db-€120, Tb-€160, Qb-€180, ask for €10/day Rick Steves discount and for room off busy street when you book, bottom-floor rooms are like new, air-con, rooftop sun terrace, near Piazza Tasso at Corso Italia 134, tel. 081-807-1016, tel. & fax 081-807-3157, www.hoteldelcorso.com, info@hoteldelcorso.com).
$$ Casa Astarita B&B is a shining gem in the middle of town, with a crazy-quilt tiled entryway. You'll find six bright, tranquil, air-conditioned rooms (three with little balconies) and a fully stocked communal fridge and sideboard for help-yourself breakfasts (Db-€90-100, Tb-€115, prices promised with this book in 2007, double-paned windows, elevator, Internet in rustic-yet-elegant common room, just past Ristorante Parrucchiano as you're coming from the station on Corso Italia at #67, tel. 081-877-4906, fax 081-807-1146, www.casastarita.com, info@casastarita.com). While there's no reception, it's easy to arrange a check-in meeting with Annamaria or Rita.
$$ Il Palazzo Starace B&B offers seven peaceful, tidy, and rather dark rooms in a little alley off Corso Italia (opposite Hotel del Corso), one block from Piazza Tasso (Db-€90 June-Sept, otherwise €80, 10 percent off with cash and this book in 2007, includes small breakfast at a bar around the corner, no elevator but a luggage dumbwaiter, air-con, ring bell at Via Santa Maria della Pietà 9 then climb 3 floors, tel. 081-878-4031, fax 081-532-9344, www.palazzostarace.com, info@palazzostarace.com).
$$ Hotel Mignon Meublè rents 24 basic rooms in a central location a block off Corso Italia (Sb-€85, Db-€100, Tb-€130, air-con, double-paned windows on first floor, some balconies but no views; from station, turn left on Corso Italia and it's a 10-min walk to Via Sersale 9; tel. 081-807-3824, fax 081-877-4348, www.sorrentohotelmignon.com, info@sorrentohotelmignon.com, friendly and warm Anna).
$$ Hotel Nice rents 29 simple, cramped rooms with high ceilings 100 yards in front of the train station on the noisy main drag. Alfonso guarantees that you can have a quiet room — critical at this busy location — if you request it with your booking email (Db-€85, Tb-€100, Qb-€120, 10 percent discount with cash and this book in 2007, air-con, elevator, rooftop terrace, Corso Italia 257, tel. 081-878-1650, fax 081-878-3086, www.hotelnice.it, info@hotelnice.it).
$ Residenza Maresca is a humble two-building, 12-room sideline for the recommended Pizzeria Giardiniello, which serves food at the reception. Eight of the 12 large, modern rooms are at the end of Corso Italia (at #5). Witty owner Franco may struggle with his English and be tardy when he meets you for check-in, but the price can't be beat (Db-€60, cash only, air-con, mini-fridge, Via Accademia 7-9, tel. 081-878-4616, casamarescaresidence@libero.it).
$ Ostello le Sirene di Sorrento, a tiny hostel four blocks from the train station, offers 50 of the cheapest beds in town (€18 for a bunk in 8- to 10-bed dorms with bath, includes breakfast, cash only, membership not required, Internet in lobby, open year-round, Via degli Aranci 160, tel. & fax 081-877-1371, www.hostel.it, info@hostel.it).
With a View on Via Capo
These hotels are outside of town, near the cape (straight out Corso Italia, which turns into Via Capo; from the city center, it's a 15-minute walk, a €15 taxi ride, or a cheap bus ride). The bus situation is goofy because there are two competing companies. To get from the train station to Via Capo, you can catch a SITA bus (usually blue or green-and-white, any bus except those heading for Positano/Amalfi) or an orange or orange-and-blue Circumvesuviana bus (#A). Tickets for both (€1) are sold at the station newsstand and tobacco shops (€0.50 more if you buy from the driver). The orange buses run more frequently (3/hr). The first two hotels are my favorite Sorrento splurges, and the last two hotels are clearly the best budget bets. If you're in Sorrento to stay put and luxuriate, these accommodations are perfect (although I'd rather luxuriate in Positano). When you're returning to downtown Sorrento, catch any bus heading downhill from Hotel Belair.
$$$ Albergo Settimo Cielo, the aptly named "Seventh Heaven," offers all the views and lazy resort trappings you could want, run by a family that really hustles to provide a fine value. At this dressy cliffhanger, the reception is just off the road, and the elevator takes you down through four floors with 50 rooms — all with grand views, two-thirds with balconies (Sb-€115, Db-€135, Tb-€175, Qb-€205, 5 percent discount in 2007 if you mention this book when reserving and show it at reception desk, air-con June–Sept, free parking, inviting pool and sun terrace, Via Capo 27, tel. 081-878-1012, fax 081-807-3290, www.hotelsettimocielo.com, info@hotelsettimocielo.com). It's 300 steps above Marina Grande.
$$$ Hotel Minerva is like a sun-worshipper's temple. Catch the elevator at Via Capo 32. Getting off on the fifth floor, you'll step into a spectacular terrace with outrageous Mediterranean views and a small, cliffhanging swimming pool and a cold-water Jacuzzi con vista complementing 60 large, tiled limoncello rooms (Db-€140, Tb-€155, Qb-€170, plus €10 for a balcony, these prices — discounted about €30 — are promised with this book through 2007 only if claimed at time of inquiry, no summer half-pension requirement, air-con, parking-€10/day, Via Capo 30-32, tel. 081-878-1011, fax 081-878-1949, www.minervasorrento.com, minerva@acampora.it).
$$$ Hotel La Tonnarella is a freshly renovated Sorrentine villa with several terraces, stylish tiles, a dreamy, chandeliered dining room, and disinterested owners. Eighteen of its 24 rooms have views of the sea (non-view Db-€150, seaview Db-€155, Db with view balcony-€160, Db with view terrace-€165, exotic view suite with terrace-€250, €22/person half-pension available in Aug, rooms near kitchen come with clanging pots and pans, air-con, free Internet access, small beach with elevator access, Via Capo 31, tel. 081-878-1153, fax 081-878-2169, www.latonnarella.it, info@latonnarella.it).
$$ Hotel Désirée, run by friendly Corinna and staff, is a simpler affair, with humbler vistas but no traffic noise. Half of the 22 slightly scruffy rooms have high, clifffacing views, balconies, or both (all same price). Most rooms have fans, and there's a fine rooftop sunning terrace, lovable cats, and no half-pension requirements (maximum prices: Sb-€60, small Db-€78, Db-€90, Tb-€108, Qb-€126, cash only, laundry-€8, rooms on bottom floor in better condition, shares driveway and free beach access with La Tonnarella, Via Capo 31, tel. & fax 081-878-1563, www.desireehotelsorrento.com). Corinna is hugely helpful with tips on exploring the peninsula.
$ The humble Pension Elios, run by Maria and daughter Gianna, offers 14 simple but spacious rooms — most with balconies and views — and a panoramic sun terrace (Db-€70, Tb-€80, family rooms, cheaper off-season but closed Nov-March, cash only, free parking, Via Capo 33, tel. 081-878-1812, a little English spoken).
Near the Port
$$$ Hotel il Faro, located at Marina Piccola but easily accessible from the town center by bus, is handy if you're planning to travel by hydrofoil to Naples or Capri. Its rooftop terrace, crammed with sunning lounge chairs, overlooks the ocean. Some of its neat and modern 50 rooms have balconies, many with views (Sb-€100, non-view Db-€130, seaview Db-€150, non-view Tb-€170, seaview Tb-€180, Gino promises a 15 percent discount with this book through 2007, air-con, tel. 081-878-1390, fax 081-807-3144, www.hotelilfaro.com, info@hotelilfaro.com). They also run the attached Ristorante Pizzeria Vela Bianca, offering a 10 percent discount to hotel guests.
Above the Town
$ Hotel il Nido is a big, modern, 27-room place sitting high above town, offering a great value for drivers who don't mind relying on the hotel's 10-minute-long shuttle service in and out of Sorrento. Aptly named Il Nido ("the nest"), it's run by the friendly Persico family and comes with a fine restaurant (Sb-€50, small Db-€60, Db-€80, Tb-€90, Qb-€100, €20 less without view, closed Dec-April; free parking, pick-up at train station, and hourly shuttle; Via Nastro Verde 62, tel. & fax 081-878-2766, www.ilnido.it, info@ilnido.it).