Eating in Volterra
Ristorante Enoteca del Duca, with a locally respected chef, serves refined Tuscan cuisine. You can dine under a medieval arch, with walls lined with wine bottles, or on a nice little patio out back (food-sampler menu-€40, pastas-€8, secondi-€15, a good place for truffles, fine wine list, closed Tue, near City Hall at Via di Castello 2, tel. 0588-81510).
La Vecchia Lira is a classy self-serve eatery that's a hit with locals as a quick and cheap lunch spot by day, and a fancier fish restaurant at night (Fri–Wed 12:00–15:00 & 19:30–22:30, closed Thu, Via Matteotti 19, tel. 0588-86180).
Ombra della Sera serves the best pizza in town and more (Tue-Sun 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-22:00, closed Mon, Via Guarnacci 16, tel. 0588-85274).
Ristorante Il Sacco Fiorentino is a local favorite for traditional cuisine (Thu-Tue 12:00-14:45 & 19:00-21:45, closed Wed, Piazza XX Settembre 18, tel. 0588-88537).
For fresh sandwiches and wine, try friendly Enoteca Scali (daily 9:00–22:00, Via Guarnacci 3, tel. 0588-81170).
Picnics: You can assemble a picnic at the few alimentari around town (try Spar Market at Via Gramsci 12) and eat in the breezy Parco Archeologico.