Gimmelwald and the Berner Oberland
Frolic and hike high above the stress and clouds of the real world. Take a vacation from your busy vacation. Recharge your touristic batteries up here in the Alps, where distant avalanches, cowbells, the fluff of a down comforter, and the crunchy footsteps of happy hikers are the dominant sounds. If the weather's good (and your budget's healthy), ride a gondola from the traffic-free village of Gimmelwald to a hearty breakfast at Schilthorn's 10,000-foot revolving Piz Gloria restaurant. Linger among alpine whitecaps before riding, hiking, or parasailing down 5,000 feet to Mürren and home to Gimmelwald.
Your gateway to the rugged Berner Oberland is the grand old resort town of Interlaken. Near Interlaken is Switzerland's open-air folk museum, Ballenberg, where you can climb through traditional houses from every corner of this diverse country.
Ah, but the weather's fine and the Alps beckon. Head deep into the heart of the Alps and ride the gondola to the stop just this side of heaven-Gimmelwald.
Interlaken
When the 19th-century Romantics redefined mountains as something more than cold and troublesome obstacles, Interlaken became the original alpine resort. Ever since, tourists have flocked to the Alps because they're there. Interlaken's glory days are long gone, its elegant old hotels eclipsed by the new, more jet-setty alpine resorts. Today its shops are filled with chocolate bars, Swiss Army knives, and sunburned backpackers.
Gimmelwald
Saved from developers by its "avalanche zone" classification, Gimmelwald was (before tourism) one of the poorest places in Switzerland. Its traditional economy was stuck in the hay, and its farmers, unable to make it in their disadvantaged trade, survived only by Swiss government subsidies (and working the ski lifts in the winter). For some travelers, there's little to see in the village. Others enjoy a fascinating day sitting on a bench and learning why they say, "If heaven isn't what it's cracked up to be, send me back to Gimmelwald." Gimmelwald is my home base in the Berner Oberland (see "Sleeping in Gimmelwald," below).
Take a walk through the town. This place is for real. Most of the 130 residents have the same last name: von Allmen. They are tough and proud. Raising hay in this rugged terrain is labor-intensive. One family harvests enough to feed only 15 or 20 cows. But they'd have it no other way, and, unlike the absentee-landlord town of Mürren, Gimmelwald is locally owned. (When word got out that urban planners wished to develop Gimmelwald into a town of 1,000, locals pulled some strings to secure the town's bogus avalanche-zone building code.)
The huge sheer cliff face that dominates your mountain views from Gimmelwald (and Mürren) is the Schwarzmönch (Black Monk). The three peaks above (or behind) it are, left to right, the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau.
Do not confuse obscure Gimmelwald with touristy and commercialized Grindelwald, just over the Kleine Scheidegg ridge.
A Walk through Gimmelwald
Gimmelwald, while tiny with one zigzag street, gives a fine look at a traditional mountain Swiss community. Here's a quick walking tour:
Gondola Station: When the lift came in the 1960s, this village's back end became Gimmelwald's front door. This was, and still is, a farm village. Stepping off the gondola, you see a sweet little hut. Set on stilts to keep out mice, the hut was used for storing cheese (the rocks on the rooftop keep the shingles on through wild winter winds). Notice the yellow alpine "street sign" showing where you are, the altitude (4,470 feet), and how many hours (Std.) and minutes it takes to walk to nearby points. Behind the cheese hut stands the village schoolhouse. In Catholic-Swiss towns, the biggest building is the church. In Protestant towns, it's the school. Gimmelwald's biggest building is the school (2 teachers, 17 students, and a room that doubles as a chapel when the Protestant pastor makes his monthly visit). Don't let Gimmelwald's low-tech look fool you: in this school, each kid has his or her own website. In the opposite direction, just beyond the little playground, is Gimmelwald's Mountain Hostel.
Walk up the lane 50 yards, past the shower in the phone booth, to Gimmelwald's...
"Times Square": From this tiny intersection, we'll follow the town's main street (away from gondola station, where most yellow arrows are pointing). Most of the buildings used to house two families and are divided vertically right down the middle. The writing on the post office building is a folksy blessing: "Summer brings green, winter brings snow. The sun greets the day, the stars greet the night. This house will keep you warm. May God give us his blessings." The date indicates when it was built or rebuilt (1911).
"Main Street": Walk up the road. Notice the announcement board: one side for tourist news, the other for local news. Cross the street and peek into the big new barn, dated 1995. This is part of the "Sleep in Straw" association, which rents out barn spots to travelers when the cows are in the high country. To the left of the door is a cow scratcher. Swiss cows have legal rights (e.g., in the winter, they must be taken out for exercise at least 3 times a week). This big barn is built in a modern style. Traditionally, barns were small (like those on the hillside high above) and closer to the hay. But with trucks and paved roads, hay can be moved easier and farther, and farms need more cows to be viable. Still, even a well-run big farm hopes just to break even. The industry survives only with government subsidies. Go just beyond the next barn and look to your right.
Water Fountain/Trough: This is the site of the town's historic water supply. Local kids love to bathe in this when the cows aren't drinking from it. From here, detour left down a lane about 50 yards (along a wooden fence and past pea-patch gardens) to the next trough and the oldest building in town, "Husmättli," from 1658. Study the log-cabin construction. Many are built without nails.
Back on the paved road, continue uphill. Gimmelwald has a strict building code. For instance, shutters can only be natural, green, or white. Notice the cute cheese hut on the right (with stones on the shingles and alpine cheese for sale). It's full of strong cheese — up to three years old. On the left (at B&B sign) is the home of Olle and Maria, the village schoolteachers. Gimmelwald heats with wood and, since the wood needs to age a couple of years to burn well, it's stacked everywhere. Fifty yards farther along is the...
Alpenrose: At the old schoolhouse, notice the big ceremonial cowbells hanging under the uphill eave. These swing from the necks of cows during the alpine procession from the town to the high Alps (mid-June) and back down (around Sept 20). At the end of town, notice the dramatic Sefinen Valley. The road switches back at the...
Gimmelwald Fire Station: Check out the notices up above on the fire station building. Every Swiss male does a year in the military, then a few days a year in the reserves until about age 40. The 2004 Swiss Army calendar tells the reserves when and where to go. The Schiessübungen poster details the shooting exercises required this year. Keeping with the William Tell heritage, each Swiss man does shooting practice annually for the military (or spends 3 days in jail).
High Road: Follow the high road to Hotel Mittaghorn. The resort of Mürren hovers in the distance. And high on the left, notice the hay field with terraces. These are from WWII days, when Switzerland, wanting self-sufficiency, required all farmers to grow potatoes. From Hotel Mittaghorn, you can return to Gimmelwald's "Times Square" via the stepped path.
Gimmelwald After Dark — Evening fun in Gimmelwald is found at the hostel (offering a pool table, Internet access, lots of young Alp-aholics, and a good chance to share information on the surrounding mountains) or at Pension Gimmelwald's terrace restaurant next door. Walter's bar (in Hotel Mittaghorn) is a local farmers' hangout. When they've made their hay, they come here to play. Although they look like what some people would call hicks, they speak some English and can be fun to get to know. Sit outside (benches just below the rails, 100 yards down the lane from Walter's) and watch the sun tuck the mountaintops into bed as the moon rises over the Jungfrau. If this isn't your idea of nightlife, stay in Interlaken.
Alpine Excursions
There are days of possible hikes from Gimmelwald. Many are a fun combination of trails, mountain trains, and gondola rides. Don't mind the fences (although wires can be solar-powered electric); a hiker has the right-of-way in Switzerland. However, as late as June, snow can curtail your hiking plans (the Männlichen lift doesn't even open until the first week in June). Before setting out on any hike, get advice from a knowledgeable local to confirm that it is safe, accessible, and doable before dark. Clouds can roll in anytime, but skies are usually clearest in the morning. That means you need rain gear and sunscreen, regardless of the current weather. Don't forget a big water bottle and some munchies. Refer to maps (within this chapter) as you read about the following hikes.
The Schilthorn: Hikes, Lifts, and a 10,000-Foot Breakfast — The Schilthornbahn carries skiers, hikers, and sightseers effortlessly to the 10,000-foot summit of the Schilthorn, where the Piz Gloria station awaits with a solar-powered revolving restaurant, shop, and panorama terrace. Linger on top. Piz Gloria has a free "touristorama" film room with a multi-screen slide show and explosive highlights from the James Bond thriller that featured the Schilthorn (On Her Majesty's Secret Service; if it's not running, press the "007" button on the column in the middle of the room).
Watch hang gliders set up, psych up, and take off, flying 30 minutes with the birds to distant Interlaken. Walk along the ridge out back. This is a great place for a photo of the "mountain-climber you." For another cheap thrill, ask the gondola attendant to crank down the window (easiest on the Mürren-Birg section). Then stick your head out the window...and you're hang gliding.
The early-bird and afternoon-special gondola tickets (60 SF round-trip, before 9:00 or after 15:30) take you from Gimmelwald to the Schilthorn and back at a discount (normal rate-80 SF, or 94 SF from the Stechelberg car park; parking-2 SF/2 hrs, 6 SF/day). These same discounted fares are available all day long in the shoulder season (roughly May and Oct). Ask the Schilthorn station for a gondola souvenir decal (Schilthornbahn station in Stechelberg tel. 033-856-2141). For breakfast at 10,000 feet, there's no à la carte — only a fixed meal for 15 SF (rolls and hot chocolate or coffee) or 22.50 SF (add egg, ham, and Champagne; breakfast served 8:00-11:00). If you're going for breakfast before 9:00, consider an early-bird-plus-breakfast combo-ticket to save a few francs (73 SF round-trip from Gimmelwald, 84 SF from Stechelberg). Ask for more hot drinks if necessary. If you're not revolving, ask them to turn it on.
Lifts go twice hourly, and the ride (including 2 transfers) to the Schilthorn takes 30 minutes. Watch the altitude meter in the gondola. (The Gimmelwald-Schilthorn hike is free if you don't mind a 5,000-foot altitude gain.) You can ride up to the Schilthorn and hike down, but it's tough (weather can change; wear good shoes). Youth hostelers scream down the ice fields on plastic-bag sleds from the Schilthorn mountaintop. (English-speaking doctor in Lauterbrunnen.)
Just below Birg is Schilthornhütte. Drop in for soup, cocoa, or a coffee schnapps. You can spend the night in the hut's crude loft (dorm bed with breakfast-35 SF, 20 SF more for dinner, open July-Sept Fri-Sun, Dec-April daily, tel. 033-855-5053, schilthornhuette@muerren.ch).
Hard-core hikers could enjoy the hike from Birg to Gimmelwald (from Schilthorn summit, ride cable car halfway down, get off at Birg, and hike down from there; buy the round-trip excursion early-bird fare — which is cheaper than the Gimmelwald-Schilthorn-Birg ticket — and decide at Birg if you want to hike or ride down). The most interesting trail from Birg to Gimmelwald is the high one via Grauseeli Lake and Wasenegg Ridge to Brünli, then down to Spielbodenalp and the Sprutz waterfall. Warning: this trail is quite steep and slippery in places and can take four to six hours. Locals take their kindergartners on this hike, but it can seem dangerous to Americans unused to alpine hikes. Do not attempt this hike in snow — which you might find at this altitude even in the peak of summer. From the Birg lift, hike toward the Schilthorn, taking your first left down to the little, newly-made Grauseeli Lake. From the lake, a gravelly trail leads down rough switchbacks (including a stretch where the path narrows and you can hang onto a guide cable against the cliff face) until it levels out. When you see a rock painted with arrows pointing to "Mürren" and "Rotstockhütte," follow the path to Rotstockhütte, traversing the cow-grazed mountainside. Follow Wasenegg Ridge left and down along the barbed-wire fence to Brünli. (For maximum thrills, stay on the ridge and climb all the way to the knobby little summit, where you'll enjoy an incredible 360-degree view and a chance to sign your name on the register stored in the little wooden box.) A steep trail winds directly down from Brünli toward Gimmelwald and soon hits a bigger, easy trail. The trail bends right (just before the popular restaurant/mountain hut at Spielbodenalp), leading to Sprutz. Walk under the Sprutz waterfall, then follow a steep, wooded trail that will deposit you in a meadow of flowers at the top side of Gimmelwald.
North Face Trail from Mürren — For a pleasant two-hour hike (4 miles, from 6,385 feet to 5,375 feet), ride the Allmendhubel funicular up from Mürren (7.40 SF, cheaper than Schilthorn, good restaurant at top). From there, follow the well-promoted and well-described route circling around to Mürren (or cut off near the end down to Gimmelwald). You'll enjoy great views, flowery meadows, mountain huts, and a dozen information boards along the way describing the climbing history of the great peaks around you.
The Männlichen-Kleine Scheidegg Hike — This is my favorite easy alpine hike. It's entertaining all the way, with glorious Jungfrau, Eiger, and Mönch views. That's the Young Maiden being protected from the Ogre by the Monk. (Note that trails may be snowbound into June; ask about conditions at the lift stations or local TI. If the Männlichen lift is closed, take the train straight from Lauterbrunnen to Kleine Scheidegg.)
If the weather's good, descend from Gimmelwald bright and early to Stechelberg. From here, get to the Lauterbrunnen train station by post bus (3.80 SF, bus is synchronized to depart with the arrival of each lift) or by car (parking at the large multistoried pay lot behind the Lauterbrunnen station-2 SF/2 hrs, 9 SF/day). At Lauterbrunnen, buy a train ticket to Männlichen (28 SF one-way). Sit on the right side of the train for great waterfall views on your way up to Wengen. In Wengen, walk across town (buy a picnic but don't waste time here if it's sunny) and catch the Männlichen lift (departing every 15 min, beginning the first week of June) to the top of the ridge high above you.
From the Wengen-Männlichen lift station, turn left and hike uphill 20 minutes north to the little peak (Männlichen Gipfel) for that king- or queen-of-the-mountain feeling. Then take an easy hour's walk — facing spectacular alpine panorama views — to Kleine Scheidegg for a picnic or restaurant lunch. To start the hike, leave the Wengen-Männlichen lift station to the right. Walk past the second Männlichen lift station (this one leads to Grindelwald, the touristy town in the valley to your left). Ahead of you in the distance, left to right, are the north faces of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau; in the foreground is the Tschuggen peak, and just behind it, the Lauberhorn. This hike will take you around the left (east) side of this ridge. Simply follow the signs for Kleine (Kl.) Scheidegg, and you'll be there in about an hour — a little more for gawkers, picnickers, and photographers. You might have to tiptoe through streams of melted snow — or some small snow banks, even well into the summer — but the path is well-marked, well-maintained, and mostly level all the way to Kleine Scheidegg.
About 35 minutes into the hike, you'll reach a bunch of benches and a shelter with incredible unobstructed views of all three peaks — the perfect picnic spot. Fifteen minutes later on the left, you'll see the first sign of civilization: Restaurant Grindelwaldblick, offering a handy terrace lunch stop with tasty, hearty, and reasonable food (daily, closed Dec and May, see "Sleeping and Eating in Kleine Scheidegg," below). After 10 more minutes, you'll be at the Kleine Scheidegg train station, with plenty of other lunch options (including Bahnhof Buffet, see "Sleeping and Eating in Kleine Scheidegg," below).
From Kleine Scheidegg, you can catch the train to "the top of Europe" (see "Jungfraujoch," below). Or head downhill, riding the train or hiking (30 gorgeous min to Wengernalp station; 90 more steep min from there into the town of Wengen). The alpine views might be accompanied by the valley-filling mellow sound of Alp horns and distant avalanches.
If the weather turns bad or you run out of steam, catch the train early at the little Wengernalp station along the way. After Wengernalp, the trail to Wengen is steep and, while not dangerous, requires a good set of knees. Wengen is a good shopping town. (For accommodations, see "Sleeping in Wengen," below.) The boring final descent from Wengen to Lauterbrunnen is knee-killer steep-catch the train.
Jungfraujoch — The literal high point of any trip to the Swiss Alps is a train ride through the Eiger to the Jungfraujoch. At 11,300 feet, it's Europe's highest train station. The ride from Kleine Scheidegg takes about an hour (sit on right side for better views), including two five-minute stops at stations actually halfway up the notorious North Face of the Eiger. You have time to look out windows and marvel at how people could climb the Eiger and how the Swiss built this train more than a hundred years ago. The second half of the ride takes you through a tunnel inside the Eiger (some newer trains run multilingual videos about the history of the train).
Once you reach the top, study the Jungfraujoch chart to see your options (many of them are weather-dependent). There's a restaurant, history exhibit, ice palace (a cavern with a gallery of ice statues), and a continuous 20-minute video. A tunnel leads outside, where you can ski (30 SF for gear and lift ticket), sled (free loaner discs with deposit), ride in a dog sled (6 SF, mornings only), or hike 45 minutes across the ice to Mönchsjochhütte (a mountain hut with a small restaurant). An elevator leads to the Sphinx observatory for the highest viewing point from which you can see Aletsch Glacier — Europe's longest, at nearly 11 miles — stretch to the south. Remember that your body isn't used to such high altitudes. Signs posted at the top remind you to take it easy.
The first trip of the day to Jungfraujoch is discounted; ask for a Good Morning Ticket and return from the top by noon (Nov-April you can get Good Morning rates for first or second train and stay after noon; train runs all year; round-trip fares to Jungfraujoch: from Kleine Scheidegg-normally 102 SF, 65 SF for first trip of day — about 8:02; from Lauterbrunnen-150 SF, 113 SF for first trip — about 7:08, confirm times and prices, discounts for Eurail/Eurail Selectpass and Swiss railpass holders, get leaflet on lifts at a local TI or call 033-828-7233, www.jungfrau.ch). For a trilingual weather forecast, call 033-828-7931; if it's cloudy, skip the trip.
Hike from Schynige Platte to First — The best day I've had hiking in the Berner Oberland was when I made the demanding six-hour ridge walk high above Lake Brienz on one side, with all that Jungfrau beauty on the other. Start at Wilderswil train station (just above Interlaken) and catch the little train up to Schynige Platte (6,560 feet). Walk through the flower display garden and into the wild alpine yonder. The high point is Faulhorn (8,790 feet, with its famous mountaintop hotel). Hike to a small gondola called "First" (7,110 feet), then descend to Grindelwald and catch a train back to your starting point, Wilderswil. Or, if you have a regional train pass (or no car but endless money), return to Gimmelwald via Lauterbrunnen from Grindelwald over Kleine Scheidegg. For an abbreviated ridge walk, consider the Panoramaweg, a short loop from Schynige Platte to Daub Peak.
Mountain Biking — Mountain biking is popular and accepted (as long as you stay on the clearly marked mountain-bike paths). A popular ride is the round-trip "Mürren Loop" that runs from Mürren to Gimmelwald, down the Sefinen Valley to Stechelberg, Lauterbrunnen (by funicular, bike costs same as person-7.80 SF), Grütschalp, and back to Mürren. You can rent bikes in Mürren (Stäger Sport, 25 SF/4 hrs, 35 SF/day, daily 9:00-17:00, closed May and Nov, across from TI/Sportzentrum, tel. 033-855-2355, www.staegersport.ch) or in Lauterbrunnen (Imboden Bike, 25 SF/4 hrs, 35 SF/day, full-suspension — reserve ahead — 45 SF/half-day, 65 SF/full day, daily 8:00-18:30, tel. 033-855-2114).
You can also bike the Lauterbrunnen Valley from Lauterbrunnen to Interlaken. It's a gentle downhill ride via a peaceful bike path across the river from the road. Rent a bike at Lauterbrunnen (see above), bike to Interlaken, and return to Lauterbrunnen by train (to take bike on train, pay 3.30 SF extra from East station or 4.60 SF extra from West station). Or rent a bike at either Interlaken station, take the train to Lauterbrunnen, and ride back.
More Hikes near Gimmelwald — For a not-too-tough, three-hour walk (but there's a scary 20-minute stretch) with great Jungfrau views and some mountain farm action, ride the funicular from Mürren to Allmendhubel (6,344 feet) and walk to Marchegg, Saustal, and Grütschalp (a drop of about 1,500 feet), where you can catch the panorama train back to Mürren. An easier version is the lower Bergweg from Allmendhubel to Grütschalp via Winteregg. For an easy family stroll with grand views, walk from Mürren just above the train tracks to either Winteregg (40 min, restaurant, playground, train station) or Grütschalp (60 min, train station), then catch the panorama train back to Mürren. An easy, go-as-far-as-you-like trail from Gimmelwald is up the Sefinen Valley. Or you can wind from Gimmelwald down to Stechelberg (60 min).
You can get specifics at the Mürren TI. For a description of six diverse hikes on the west side of Lauterbrunnen, pick up the fine and free Mürren-Schilthorn Hikes brochure. This 3-D map of the Mürren mountainside makes a useful and attractive souvenir. For the other side of the valley, get the Wandern Jungfraubahnen brochure, also with a handy 3-D map of hiking trails (both brochures free, at stations, hotels, and TIs).
Rainy-Day Options
When it rains here, locals joke that they're washing the mountains. If clouds roll in, don't despair. They can roll out just as quickly, and there are plenty of good bad-weather options.
Cloudy-Day Lauterbrunnen Valley Walk — There are easy trails and pleasant walks along the floor of the Lauterbrunnen Valley. For a smell-the-cows-and-flowers lowland walk — ideal for a cloudy day, weary body, or tight budget — follow the riverside trail from Stechelberg's Schilthornbahn station for three miles to Lauterbrunnen's Staubbach Falls, near the town church (you can reverse the route, but it's a gradual uphill to Stechelberg). Detour to Trümmelbach Falls (below) en route. There's a fine, paved, car-free, riverside path all the way.
If you're staying in Gimmelwald: Take the lift down to Stechelberg (5 min), then walk to Lauterbrunnen, detouring to Trümmelbach Falls shortly after Stechelberg (15 min to falls, another 45 min to Lauterbrunnen). To return to Gimmelwald from Lauterbrunnen, take the funicular up to Grütschalp (10 min), then either walk (90 min to Gimmelwald) or take the panorama train (15 min) to Mürren. From Mürren, it's a downhill walk (30 min) to Gimmelwald. (This loop trip can be reversed.)
Trümmelbach Falls — If all the waterfalls have you intrigued, sneak a behind-the-scenes look at the valley's most powerful one, Trümmelbach Falls (10 SF, July-Aug daily 8:30-18:00, June 9:00-17:30, Easter-May and Sept-mid-Nov daily 9:00-17:00, closed mid-Nov-Easter, on Lauterbrunnen-Stechelberg road, take postal bus from Lauterbrunnen TI or Stechelberg gondola station, tel. 033-855-3232). You'll ride an elevator up through the mountain and climb through several caves (wet, with lots of stairs, and — for some — claustrophobic) to see the melt from the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau grinding like God's band saw through the mountain at the rate of up to 20,000 liters a second (that's 5,200 gallons — nearly double the beer consumption at Oktoberfest). The upper area is the best; if your legs ache, skip the lower falls and ride down on the elevator.
Lauterbrunnen Folk Museum — The Heimatmuseum in Lauterbrunnen shows off the local folk culture (free if you're staying in the region, 2 SF if you're staying in Interlaken, 3 SF otherwise, mid-June-mid-Oct Tue, Thu, and Sat-Sun 14:00-17:00, closed off-season, just over bridge and below church at the far end of town, tel. 033-855-3586 or 033-855-1388).
Mürren Activities — This low-key alpine resort town offers a variety of rainy-day activities, from its shops to its slick Sportzentrum (sports center) with pools, steam baths, squash, and a fitness center (for details, see "Sleeping in Mürren," below). On Wednesday nights at 20:30 from June through August, Mürren's Sportzentrum hosts a lively free cultural night with alpenhorns, folk music, and local wine.
Interlaken Boat Trips — Consider taking a boat trip from Interlaken (see "Sights — Interlaken," above).
Swiss Open-Air Folk Museum at Ballenberg — Across Lake Brienz from Interlaken, the Swiss Open-Air Museum of Vernacular Architecture, Country Life, and Crafts in the Bernese Oberland is a rich collection of traditional and historic farmhouses from every region of the country. Each house is carefully furnished, and many feature traditional craftspeople at work. The sprawling 50-acre park, laid out roughly as a huge Swiss map, is a natural preserve providing a wonderful setting for this culture-on-a-lazy-Susan look at Switzerland.
The Thurgau house (#621) has an interesting wattle-and-daub (half-timbered construction) display, and house #331 has a fun bread museum. Visit the new chocolate shop. Use the 2-SF map/guide. The more expensive picture book is a better souvenir than guide (entry — 16 SF, half-price after 16:00, houses open May-Oct daily 10:00-17:00, park stays open later, craft demonstration schedules are listed just inside entry, tel. 033-952-1030, www.ballenberg.ch).
A reasonable outdoor cafeteria is inside the west entrance, and fresh bread, sausage, mountain cheese, and other goodies are on sale in several houses. Picnic tables and grills with free firewood are scattered throughout the park.
The little wooden village of Brienzwiler (near the east entrance) is a museum in itself, with a lovely little church.
To get from Interlaken to Ballenberg: Take the train from Interlaken to Brienz (hrly, 30 min, 7.20 SF one-way from West station). From Brienz, catch a bus to Ballenberg (10 min, 3 SF one-way) or hike (45 min, slightly uphill). If you have the time, consider coming back by boat (Brienz boat dock next to train station, one-way to Interlaken-16 SF). Trains also run occasionally from Interlaken to Brienzwiler, a 20-min uphill walk to the museum (every 2 hrs, 30 min, 9.20 SF one-way from West station). A "RailAway" combo-ticket, available at either Interlaken station, includes transportation to and from Ballenberg and your admission (32 SF from West, 30.40 SF from East, add 9.40 SF to return by boat instead).
For lots more information, check out our best-selling Rick Steves' Switzerland guidebook.