Rick's Favorite Sleeps & Eats: Bavaria and Tirol
Sleeping in Füssen
(€1 = about $1.10, country code: 49, area code: 08362)
Prices listed are for one-night stays. Most places give about 10 percent off for two-night stays — always request this discount. Competition is fierce, and off-season prices are soft. High season is mid-June through September. Rooms are generally about 12 percent less in shoulder season and much cheaper in off-season.
While I prefer sleeping in Reutte (see below), convenient Füssen is just three miles from Ludwig's castles and offers a cobbled, riverside retreat. While it's very touristy, it has plenty of rooms. All recommended places are within a few blocks of the train station and the town center. Parking is easy at the station.
$$$ Hotel Kurcafé is deluxe, with 30 spacious rooms and all of the amenities. The standard rooms are comfortable, and the newer, bigger rooms have elegant touches and fun decor — like canopy drapes and cherubic frescoes over the bed (Sb-€82, standard Db-€99, bigger Db-€113-139 depending on size, Tb-€123, Qb-€139, 4-person suite-€159, €10 more for weekends and holidays, cheaper off-season, non-smoking rooms, elevator, parking-€5/day, on tiny traffic circle a block in front of station at Bahnhofstrasse 4, tel. 08362/930-180, fax 08362/930-1850, www.kurcafe.com, info@kurcafe.com, Schöll family).
$$$ Hotel Hirsch is a big, romantic, old tour-class hotel with 53 rooms on the main street in the center of town. Their standard rooms are fine, and their theme rooms are a fun splurge (Sb-€56-82, standard Db-€87–133, theme Db-€118-162, prices depend on room size and demand, cheaper Nov-March and during slow times, only the expensive theme rooms are non-smoking, family rooms, elevator, free parking, Kaiser-Maximilian Platz 7, tel. 08362/93980, fax 08362/939-877, www.hotelhirsch.de, info@hotelhirsch.de).
$$$ Hotel Sonne, in the heart of town, rents 32 mod, institutional, yet comfy rooms (Sb-€85, Db-€105, Tb-€129, cheaper Oct-mid-June, non-smoking rooms, elevator, free parking, kitty-corner from TI at Reichenstrasse 37, tel. 08362/9080, fax 08362/908-100, www.hotel-sonne.de, info@hotel-sonne.de).
$$ Altstadthotel zum Hechten offers all the modern comforts in a friendly, traditional shell right under Füssen Castle in the old-town pedestrian zone (35 rooms, S-€30, Sb-€45, D-€60, Db-€75–80, Tb-€100, Qb-€112, free parking, cheaper off-season and for longer stays, non-smoking rooms, fun mini-bowling alley in basement, nearby church bells ring hourly at night; from TI, walk down pedestrian street, take second right to Ritterstrasse 6, tel. 08362/91600, fax 08362/916-099, www.hotel-hechten.com, hotel.hechten@t-online.de, Pfeiffer and Tramp families).
$$ Suzanne's B&B is run by a plain-spoken, no-nonsense American woman who strikes some travelers as brusque. Suzanne runs a tight ship, offering lots of local travel advice, backyard-fresh eggs, local cheese, a children's yard, laundry (€20/load), and bright, woody, spacious rooms (Db-€80, Tb-€115, Qb-€145, Db suite-€100, Tb suite-€140, Qb suite-€160, attic special: €70 for 2, €100 for 3, €120 for 4; another room holds up to 6 — ask for details, no CC, non-smoking, exit station right and backtrack 2 blocks along tracks, cross tracks at Venetianerwinkel to #3, tel. 08362/38485, fax 08362/921-396, www.suzannes.de, svorbrugg@t-online.de). Her kid-friendly loft has very low ceilings (you'll crouch), a private bathroom (you'll crouch), and up to six beds.
$$ Hotel Bräustüberl has 16 decent rooms at fair rates attached to a gruff, musty, old beer hall–type place. Don't expect much service (S-€25, Sb-€47, D-€50, Db-€64-74, no CC, Rupprechtstrasse 5, a block from station, tel. 08362/7843, fax 08362/923-951, brauereigasthof-fuessen@t-online.de).
$ Gasthof Krone, a rare bit of pre-glitz Füssen in the pedestrian zone, has dumpy halls and stairs and big time-warp rooms at good prices (S-€28, D/Ds-€52, extra bed-€29, €3 more per person for 1-night stays, reception in restaurant, from TI head down pedestrian street, take first left to Schrannengasse 17, tel. 08362/7824, fax 08362/37505, www.krone-fuessen.de).
$ Haus Peters is comfy, smoke-free, and friendly. But Frau Peters takes reservations only a short time in advance and shuts down in May, July, and when she's out of town (4 rooms, Ds/Db-€50, Tb-€60, no CC, Augustenstrasse 5 1/2, tel. 08362/7171).
$ Wilhelm and Elisabeth Röck, a sweet old couple, rent out two rooms in their home a block from the TI (D-€51, Db-€52, no CC, non-smoking, Augsburgerstrasse 7, tel. 08362/6353, just enough English spoken).
$ Füssen Youth Hostel, a fine, German-run place, welcomes travelers under 27 (€15-dorm beds in 2- to 6-bed rooms, D-€36, €3 more for non-members, includes breakfast and sheets, non-smoking, laundry-€3.50/load, dinner-€5, office open 7:00–12:00 & 17:00–23:00, from station backtrack 10 min along tracks, Mariahilferstrasse 5, tel. 08362/7754, fax 08362/2770, jhfuessen@djh-bayern.de).
Sleeping in Hohenschwangau, near Neuschwanstein Castle
(€1 = about $1.10, country code: 49, area code: 08362)
Inexpensive farmhouse Zimmer (B&Bs) abound in the Bavarian countryside around Neuschwanstein, offering drivers a decent value. Look for Zimmer Frei signs ("room free," or vacancy). The going rate is about €50-65 for a double, including breakfast.
$$ Beim "Landhannes" is a hundred-year-old working dairy farm run by Johann and Traudl Mayr. They rent six creaky, well-antlered rooms and keep flowers on the balconies, big bells in the halls, and cows in the yard (Sb-€30, Ds-€50, Db-€60, 10 percent discount for 2 nights, no CC, poorly signed in the village of Horn on the Füssen side of Schwangau, look for the farm 100 yards in front of Hotel Kleiner König, Am Lechrain 22, tel. 08362/8349, fax 08362/819-646, www.landhannes.de, mayr@landhannes.de).
$$ Sonnenhof is a big, woody, old house with four spacious, traditionally decorated rooms and a cheery garden. It's a 15-minute walk through the fields to the castles (S-€20, D-€45, Db-€55, no CC, at Pension Schwansee on the Füssen–Neuschwanstein road, follow the small lane 100 yards to Sonnenweg 11, tel. 08362/8420, Frau Görlich SE).
$$ Alpenhotel Meier is a small, family-run hotel with 15 rooms in a bucolic setting within walking distance of the castles, just beyond the lower parking lot (Sb-€46, Db-€77, plus €1.20 tourist tax per person, 5 percent discount with cash and this book, non-smoking rooms, all rooms have porches or balconies, family rooms, sauna, easy parking, just before tennis courts at Schwangauerstrasse 37, tel. 08362/81152, fax 08362/987-028, www.alpenhotel-allgaeu.de, alpenhotelmeier@web.de, Frau Meier SE).
Eating in Füssen
Füssen's old town and main pedestrian drag are lined with a variety of eateries. Three good places cluster on Ritterstrasse, just under the castle, off the top of the main street:
Ritterstuben offers reasonable and delicious fish, salads, veggie plates, and a fun kids' menu (Tue–Sun 11:30–14:30 & 17:30–23:00, closed Mon, Ritterstrasse 4, tel. 08362/7759). Demure, English-speaking Gabi serves while her husband cooks.
Zum Hechten Restaurant serves hearty, traditional Bavarian fare and specializes in pike (Hecht) pulled from the Lech River (€8–12 meals, Thu–Tue 11:30–14:30 & 17:30–21:00, closed Wed, Ritterstrasse 6).
Infooday is a clever and modern self-service eatery that sells its hot meals and salad bar by weight and offers English newspapers (filling salad-€3, meals-€5, Mon–Fri 10:30–18:30, Sat 10:30–14:30, closed Sun, Ritterstrasse 6).
Hotel Kurcafé's fine restaurant, right on Füssen's main traffic circle, has good and reasonable weekly specials, plus a tempting bakery (daily 11:30-14:30 & 17:30-22:00, choose between a traditional dining room and a pastel "winter garden," live Bavarian zither music most Fri-Sat during dinner, tel. 08362/930-180).
Sleeping in and near Reutte
(€1 = about $1.10, country code: 43, area code: 05672)
Reutte is a mellow Füssen with fewer crowds and easygoing locals with a contagious love of life. Come here for a good dose of Austrian ambience and lower prices. Those with a car should home-base here; those without should consider it. (To call Reutte from Germany, dial 00-43-5672, then the local number.) You'll drive across the border without stopping. Reutte is popular with Austrians and Germans, who come here year after year for one- or two-week vacations. The hotels are big, elegant, and full of comfy, carved furnishings and creative ways to spend lots of time in one spot. They take great pride in their restaurants, and the owners send their children away to hotel management schools. All include a great breakfast, but few accept credit cards. Most places give about a 5 percent discount for stays of two nights or longer.
$$$ Moserhof Hotel is a plush Tirolean splurge with 30 new-feeling rooms and polished service and facilities, including an elegant dining room (Sb-€47, Db-€84, extra bed-€35, these special prices only if you reserve ahead and ask for Rick Steves rates, almost all rooms have balconies, free parking, elevator, Internet access-€3/hr; from downtown Reutte, follow signs to village Breitenwang, it's just after church at Planseestrasse 44, tel. 05672/62020, fax 05672/620-2040, www.hotel-moserhof.at, info@hotel-moserhof.at, Hosp family).
$$ Hotel Goldener Hirsch, located in the center of Reutte just two blocks from the station, is a grand old hotel renovated with Tirolean Jugendstil flair. It boasts 56 rooms and one lonely set of antlers (Sb-€56, Db-€80, Tb-€110, Qb-€124–131, 2-night discounts, family rooms, elevator, quality food in their restaurant, tel. 05672/62508, fax 05672/625-087, www.goldener-hirsch.at, info@goldener-hirsch.at, Monika, Helmut, and daughters Vanessa and Nina all SE).
$ The homey Jugendgästehaus Graben hostel has two to six beds per room and includes breakfast and sheets. Frau Reyman and her son Rudy keep the place traditional, clean, and friendly, and serve a great €6.50 dinner for guests only. This is a super value. If you've never hostelled and are curious (and have a car or don't mind a bus ride), try it. They accept non-members of any age (dorm bed-€19, Db-€45, no CC, non-smoking rooms, Internet access, laundry service, no curfew, less than 2 miles from Reutte, bus connection to Neuschwanstein via Reutte; from downtown Reutte, cross bridge and follow main road left along river, or take the bus — 1 bus/hr until 19:30, ask for Graben stop, no buses Sun; Graben 1, tel. 05672/626-440, fax 05672/626-444, www.hoefen.at, jgh-hoefen@tirol.com).
Sleeping in Ehenbichl, near Reutte
The next two listings are a few kilometers upriver from Reutte in the village of Ehenbichl, under the Ehrenberg ruins. From central Reutte, go south on Obermarkt and turn right on Reuttenerstrasse, following signs to Ehenbichl.
$$ Hotel Maximilian is a great value. It includes free bicycles, table tennis, a children's playroom, and the friendly service of the Koch family. Daughter Gabi speaks flawless English. The Kochs host many special events, and their hotel has lots of wonderful extras such as a sauna, a masseuse, and a beauty salon (Sb-€35–40, Db-€70–80, family deals, fast Internet access, laundry service-€7/load even for non-guests, good restaurant, tel. 05672/62585, fax 05672/625-8554, www.maxihotel.com, maxhotel@netway.at). They rent cars to guests only (1 VW Golf, 1 VW van, book in advance).
$$ Gasthof-Pension Waldrast, separating a forest and a meadow, is run by the farming Huter family and their huge, friendly dog, Bari. The place feels hauntingly quiet and has no restaurant, but it does offer 10 nice rooms with sitting areas and castle-view balconies (Sb-€30, Db-€51–55, Tb-€66, Qb-€88, 10 percent discount with this book and 2 nights, no CC, non-smoking, less than 1 mile from Reutte, just off main drag toward Innsbruck, past campground and under castle ruins on Ehrenbergstrasse, tel. & fax 05672/62443, www.waldrasttirol.com, info@waldrasttirol.com).
$ Pension Hohenrainer is a big, no-frills alternative to Hotel Maximilian — a quiet, good value with 12 modern rooms and some castle-view balconies (Sb-€23–28, Db-€41–50, cheaper for longer stays, free Internet access, follow signs up the road behind Hotel Maximilian into village of Ehenbichl, tel. 05672/62544 or 63262, fax 05672/62052, www.hohenrainer.at, hohenrainer@aon.at).
Sleeping in Pinswang
The village of Pinswang is closer to Füssen (and Ludwig's castles), but still in Austria.
$$ Gutshof zum Schluxen, run by helpful Hermann, gets the "remote old hotel in an idyllic setting" award. This family-friendly working farm offers modern rustic elegance draped in goose down and pastels, and a chance to pet a rabbit and feed the deer. Its picturesque meadow setting will turn you into a dandelion picker, and its proximity to Neuschwanstein will turn you into a hiker. King Ludwig II himself is said to have slept here (Sb-€41, Db-€82, extra person-€22, 10 percent discount for 4 nights or more, Internet access, self-service laundry, free pickup from Reutte and Füssen, good restaurant, fun bar, mountain bike rental, between Reutte and Füssen in village of Pinswang, tel. 05677/8903, fax 05677/890-323, www.schluxen.com, welcome@schluxen.com).
Private Homes in Breitenwang, near Reutte
The Reutte TI has a list of 50 private homes (Zimmer) that rent out generally good rooms with facilities down the hall, pleasant communal living rooms, and breakfast. Most charge €15 per person per night and speak little or no English. Reservations are nearly impossible for one- or two-night stays, but short stops are welcome if you just drop in and fill available gaps. Most Zimmer charge around €1.50 extra for heat in winter (worth it). The TI can always find you a room when you arrive.
Right next door to Reutte is the older and quieter village of Breitenwang. It has all the best Zimmer, the recommended Moserhof Hotel (above), and a bakery (a 20-min walk from Reutte train station — at post office roundabout, follow Planseestrasse past onion dome to pointy straight dome; unmarked Kaiser Lothar Strasse is first right past this church).
The following Zimmer (all reasonably priced, rated $) are comfortable and quiet, have few stairs, and are within two blocks of the Breitenwang church steeple: Helene Haissl (the best of the bunch, D-€30, 2-night discounts, no CC, children's loft room available, beautiful troll-filled garden, free bikes, laundry service, across from big Alpenhotel Ernberg at Planseestrasse 63, tel. 05672/67913); Walter and Emilie Hosp (3 rooms in a modern house, D-€40, D-€36 for 2 nights or more, extra person-€15, no CC, Kaiser Lothar Strasse 29, tel. 05672/65377); and Irene and Rudolf Volf (3 rooms closer to Reutte's main drag, D-€40, D-€30 for 2 nights, no CC, Kaiser Lothar Strasse 2, tel. 05672/65066).
Eating in Reutte
The hotels here take great pride in serving local cuisine at reasonable prices to their guests and the public. Rather than go to a cheap restaurant, try a hotel. Most offer €8-14 dinners from 18:00 to 21:00 and are closed one night a week. Reutte itself has plenty of inviting eateries — traditional, ethnic, fast food, grocery stores, and delis.
Excerpted from the 2004 edition of "Rick Steves' Germany, Austria & Switzerland" guidebook, available from our Travel Store.