Sleeping in London
I favor accommodations (and restaurants) handy to your sightseeing activities. Rather than list hotels scattered throughout London, I've chosen several favorite neighborhoods and recommended the best accommodations values for each.
I look for places that are friendly; clean; a good value; located in a central, safe, quiet neighborhood; and not mentioned in other guidebooks (therefore, filled mostly with English travelers). I'm more impressed by a handy location and a fun-loving philosophy than hair dryers and shoeshine machines.
London is expensive. Cheaper rooms are relatively dumpy. Don't expect £90 cheeriness in a £60 room. For £70 ($110), you'll get a double with breakfast in a safe, cramped, and dreary place with minimal service and the bathroom down the hall. For £90 ($145), you'll get a basic, clean, reasonably cheery double in a usually cramped, cracked-plaster building with a private bath, or a soulless but comfortable room without breakfast in a huge Motel 6–type place. My London splurges, at £100–150 ($160–240), are spacious, thoughtfully appointed places you'd be happy to entertain or make love in. Off-season, it's possible to save money by arriving late without a reservation and looking around. Competition softens prices, especially for multi-night stays. Hearty English or generous buffet breakfasts are included unless otherwise noted, and TVs are standard in rooms.
Hotels and B&Bs
I've described my recommended hotels and B&Bs using a Sleep Code (see below). Prices listed are for one-night stays in peak season and assume you're booking directly and not through a TI. Prices may be soft for off-season and longer stays. Some fancy £120 rooms rent for a third off if you arrive late on a slow day and ask for a deal. "Twin" means two single beds, and "double" means one double bed. If you'll take either one, let them know, or you might be needlessly turned away. Most hotels offer family deals, which means that parents with young children can easily get a room with an extra child's bed or a discount for larger rooms. Call to negotiate the price. Teenage kids are generally charged as adults. Kids under five sleep almost free.
Most places listed have three floors of rooms and steep stairs. Elevators are rare except in the larger hotels. If you're concerned about stairs, call and ask about ground-floor rooms or pay for a hotel with a lift (elevator). In this big city, street noise is a fact of life. If concerned, request a room on the back side.
Many places now offer non-smoking rooms (listed in descriptions). Breakfast rooms are nearly always smoke-free.
Rooms have sinks. Any room without a bathroom has access to a free bath or shower on the corridor. Rooms with private plumbing are called "en suite"; rooms that lack private plumbing are "standard." As more rooms go en suite, the hallway bathroom is shared with fewer standard rooms. If money's tight, request standard rooms.
Calling London
To phone London, you'll need to know Britain's country code: 44. To call from the United States or Canada, dial 011-44-20 (includes London's area code without its initial zero) plus the local number. If making the call from another European country, dial 00-44-20-local number. If calling from within Britain but outside London, dial 020-local number. To call a London phone number from within London, drop the area code (020) and dial only the local number.
Making Reservations
Reserve your London room as soon as you can commit to a date. It's possible to visit London any time of year without reservations, but given the high stakes, erratic accommodations values, and the quality of the gems we've listed, I recommend booking ahead.
A few national holidays jam things up (especially "bank holiday" Mondays) and merit reservations long in advance. Mark these dates in red on your travel calendar: New Year's Day, Good Friday through Easter Monday, the first and last Monday in May, the last Monday in August, Christmas, and December 26 (Boxing Day). Just like at home, Monday holidays are preceded by busy weekends, so book the entire weekend in advance.
You can book a room by phone, email, or fax. I've taken great pains to list telephone numbers with long-distance instructions (see "Telephones" in the Introduction). Email is preferred when possible. To fax, use the fax form in the appendix (or find it online at www.ricksteves.com/reservation). A two-night stay in August would be "2 nights, 16/8/05 to 18/8/05" (Europeans write the date day/month/year, and hotel jargon uses your day of departure).
Some places will trust you and hold a room until 16:00 without a deposit, although most places will ask you for a credit card number. The pricier ones sometimes have expensive cancellation policies (you might lose, say, a deposit if you cancel within 2 weeks of your reserved stay, or you might be billed for the entire visit if you leave early); ask about their policies before you book. If your credit card is the deposit, you can pay with your card or cash when you arrive. Honor (or cancel by phone) your reservations. If you don't show up, you'll be billed for one night. Reconfirm your reservations a couple days in advance for safety. Also, don't just assume you can extend. Consider carefully — and well in advance — how long you'll stay.
Victoria Station Neighborhood, Belgravia
The streets behind Victoria Station teem with budget B&Bs. It's a safe, surprisingly tidy, and decent area without a hint of the trashy, touristy glitz of the streets in front of the station. Here in Belgravia, your neighbors include Andrew Lloyd Webber and Margaret Thatcher (her policeman stands outside 73 Chester Square). Decent eateries abound.
All the recommended hotels are within a five-minute walk of the Victoria Tube, bus, and train stations. On hot summer nights, request a quiet back room. Nearby is a garage (£15-per-day with a hotel voucher), a launderette (daily 8:00–20:30, self-service or full service, past Warwick Square at 3 Westmoreland Terrace, tel. 020/7821-8692), and a little dance club (Club D'Jan, music from 23:30, £8 includes drink, Thu–Sat, 63 Wilton Road).
$$$ Lime Tree Hotel, enthusiastically run by David and Marilyn Davies and their daughter Charlotte, comes with 30 spacious and thoughtfully decorated rooms and a fun-loving breakfast room (Sb-£65-80, Db-£100–125, Tb-£140-160, family room-£150-175, possible discount with cash, all rooms non-smoking, quiet garden, David deals in slow times and is creative at helping travelers in a bind, 135 Ebury Street, tel. 020/7730-8191, fax 020/7730-7865, www.limetreehotel.co.uk, info@limetreehotel.co.uk).
$$$ Quality Hotel Eccleston is big, modern (but with tired carpets), well-located, and a good bet for no-nonsense comfort (Db-£130, check for various Web specials, drop-ins can ask for "saver prices" on slow days, breakfast extra or bargained in, non-smoking floor, elevator, 82 Eccleston Square, tel. 020/7834-8042, fax 020/7630-8942, enquiries@hotels-westminster.com).
$$ Winchester Hotel is family-run and perhaps the best value, with 18 fine rooms and a caring management (Db-£85, Tb-£110, Qb-£140, no CC, no groups, no infants, 17 Belgrave Road, tel. 020/7828-2972, fax 020/7828-5191, www.winchester-hotel.net, winchesterhotel17@hotmail.com, commanded by Jimmy with his able first mates: Juanita, Ian, and Paul). The Winchester also rents apartments — with kitchenettes, sitting rooms, and beds on the quiet back side — around the corner (£125–230).
$$ James House and Cartref House are two nearly identical, well-run, smoke-free, 10-room places on either side of Ebury Street (S-£52, Sb-£62, D-£70, Db-£85, T-£90, Tb-£110, family bunk-bed Qb-£135, 5 percent discount with cash, all rooms with fans, no smoking, James House at 108 Ebury Street, tel. 020/7730-7338; Cartref House at 129 Ebury Street, tel. 020/7730-6176, fax for both: 020/7730-7338, www.jamesandcartref.co.uk, info@jamesandcartref.co.uk, run by Derek and Sharon).
$$ Elizabeth Hotel is a stately old place overlooking Eccleston Square, with fine public spaces and 40 well-worn but spacious and decent rooms (D-£75, small Db-£92, big Db-£102, Tb-£115, Qb-£125, Quint/b-£130, 37 Eccleston Square, tel. 020/7828-6812, fax 020/7828-6814, www.elizabethhotel.com, info@elizabethhotel.com). Be careful not to confuse this hotel with the nearby Elizabeth House. This one is big and comfy, the other small and dumpy.
$$ Holiday Inn Express fills an old building with 52 fresh, modern, and efficient rooms (Db-£105, family rooms, up to 2 kids free, some discounts for booking online, non-smoking floor, elevator, Tube: Pimlico, 106 Belgrave Road, tel. 020/7630-8888 or 0800-897-121, fax 020/7828-0441, www.hiexpressvictoria.co.uk, info@hiexpressvictoria.co.uk).
$$ Harcourt House rents 10 newly-refurbished, neo-Victorian, smoke-free rooms (Sb-£60, Db-£80, 50 Ebury Street, tel. 020/7730-2722, www.harcourthousehotel.co.uk, harcourthouse@talk21.com, run by helpful David and Glesni Wood and cute dog Suki).
$$ Morgan House rents 11 good rooms and is entertainingly run, with lots of travel tips and friendly chat — especially about the local rich and famous — by Rachel Joplin (S-£46, D-£66, Db-£86, T-£86, family suites-£110-–122 for 3–4 people, 120 Ebury Street, tel. 020/7730-2384, fax 020/7730-8442, www.morganhouse.co.uk, morganhouse@btclick.com).
$$ Collin House Hotel, clean, simple, and efficiently-run, offers 12 basic rooms with woody, modern furnishings (Sb-£55, D-£68, Db-£82, T-£95, non-smoking rooms, 104 Ebury St, tel. & fax 020/7730-8031, www.collinhouse.co.uk, booking@collinhouse.co.uk, absentee owner).
$ Cherry Court Hotel, run by the friendly and industrious Patel family, rents 12 small, basic, air-conditioned rooms in a central location (Sb-£45, Db-£54, Tb-£75, Qb-£90, Quint/b-£105, prices promised with this book through 2005, paying with credit card costs 5 percent extra, fruit-basket breakfast in room, non-smoking, free Internet access, peaceful garden patio, 23 Hugh Street, tel. 020/7828-2840, fax 020/7828-0393, www.cherrycourthotel.co.uk, bookings@cherrycourthotel.co.uk).
$ Georgian House Hotel has 50 once-grand, now basic rooms and a cheaper top floor that works well for backpackers (S-£30, tiny D on fourth floor-£45, Db-£72, top floor Db-£60, Tb-£90, Qb-£100, Internet access, 35 St. George's Drive, tel. 020/7834-1438, fax 020/7976-6085, www.georgianhousehotel.co.uk, reception@georgianhousehotel.co.uk).
Big, Cheap, Modern Hotels
These places — popular with budget tour groups — are well-run and offer elevators and all the modern comforts in a no-frills, practical package. The doubles for £65–105 are a great value for London. Mid-week prices are generally higher than weekend rates.
$$ Jurys Inn rents 200 compact, comfy rooms near King's Cross station (Db/Tb-£104, 2 adults and 2 kids — under age 12 — can share 1 room, breakfast extra, non-smoking floors, 60 Pentonville Road, Tube: Angel, tel. 020/7282-5500, fax 020/7282-5511, www.jurysdoyle.com).
$$ Premier Travel Inn London County Hall, literally down the hall from a $400-a-night Marriott Hotel, fills one end of London's massive former County Hall building. This place is wonderfully located near the base of the London Eye Ferris Wheel and across the Thames from Big Ben. Its 300 slick rooms come with all the necessary comforts (Db-£85 for 2 adults and up to 2 kids under age 15, couples can request a bigger family room — same price, breakfast extra, book in advance, no-show rooms are released at 16:00, elevator, some smoke-free and easy-access rooms, 500 yards from Westminster Tube stop and Waterloo Station, Belvedere Road, you can call central reservations at 0870-242-8000 or 0870-238-3300, you can fax 020/7902-1619 but you might not get a response, it's easiest to book online at www.premiertravelinn.co.uk).
$$ Premier Travel InnLondon Southwark, with 55 rooms, is near Shakespeare's Globe on the South Bank (Db for up to 2 adults and 2 kids-£76, Bankside, 34 Park Street, tel. 0870-990-6402, www.premiertravelinn.co.uk).
$$ Premier Lodge King's Cross, with 276 rooms, is just east of King's Cross station on York Way (Db-£83, non-smoking rooms available, breakfast extra, 24-hour reception, elevator, tel. 0870-990-6414, fax 0870-990-6415, central reservations 0870-201-0203, www.premiertravelinn.co.uk).
Other $$ Premier Travel Inns charging £70–85 per room include London Euston (big, blue, Lego-type building packed with families on vacation on handy but noisy street, 141 Euston Road, Tube: Euston, tel. 0870-238-3301), London Kensington (11 Knaresboro Place, Tube: Earl's Court or Gloucester Road, tel. 0870-238-3304), Tower Bridge (Tower Bridge Road, inconveniently located a 10-min walk from Tube stop, Tube: London Bridge, tel. 0870-238-3303), and London PutneyBridge (farther out, 3 Putney Bridge Approach, Tube: Putney Bridge, tel. 0870-238-3302). For any of these, call 0870-242-8000, fax 0870-241-9000, or best, book online at www.premiertravelinn.co.uk.
$$ Hotel Ibis London Euston, which feels a bit classier than a Premier Travel Inn, is located on a quiet street a block behind Euston Station (380 rooms, Db-£80, breakfast extra, no family rooms, non-smoking floor, 3 Cardington Street, tel. 020/7388-7777, fax 020/7388-0001, www.ibishotel.com, h0921@accor-hotels.com).
"South Kensington," She Said, Loosening His Cummerbund
To live on a quiet street so classy it doesn't allow hotel signs, surrounded by trendy shops and colorful restaurants, call "South Ken" your London home. Shoppers like being a short walk from Harrods and the designer shops of King's Road and Chelsea. When I splurge, I splurge here. Sumner Place is just off Old Brompton Road, 200 yards from the handy South Kensington Tube station (on Circle Line, 2 stops from Victoria Station, direct Heathrow connection). There's a taxi rank in the median strip at the end of Harrington Road. The handy Wash & Dry launderette is on the corner of Queensberry Place and Harrington Road (daily 8:00–21:00, bring 20p and £1 coins).
$$$ Aster House, run by friendly and accommodating Simon and Leona Tan, has won the "best B&B in London" award twice in the last five years. It has a sumptuous lobby, lounge, and breakfast room. Its rooms are comfy and quiet, with TV, phone, and air-conditioning. Enjoy breakfast or just lounging in the whisper-elegant Orangery, a Victorian greenhouse (Sb-£90, Db-£130, bigger Db-£160, deluxe 4-poster Db-£175, entirely non-smoking, 3 Sumner Place, tel. 020/7581-5888, fax 020/7584-4925, www.asterhouse.com, asterhouse@btinternet.com). Simon and Leona offer free loaner mobile phones to their guests.
$$$ Five Sumner Place Hotel has received several "Best Small Hotel in London" awards. The 13 rooms in this 150-year-old building are tastefully decorated, and the breakfast room is a conservatory/greenhouse (Sb-£100, Db-£153, third bed-£22, ask for 20 percent Rick Steves discount; TV, phone, and fridge in room by request ; non-smoking rooms, elevator, 5 Sumner Place, tel. 020/7584-7586, fax 020/7823-9962, www.sumnerplace.com, reservations@sumnerplace.com, owners John and Barbara Palgan, helpful manager Tom Tyranowicz).
$$$ Sixteen Sumner Place, for well-heeled travelers, has over-the-top formality and class packed into its 42 rooms, plush lounges, and tranquil garden. It's in a labyrinthine building, with modern Italian decor throughout (Db-£170–220 — but soft, breakfast in your room, elevator, 16 Sumner Place, tel. 020/7589-5232, fax 020/7584-8615, U.S. tel. 800/553-6674, www.numbersixteenhotel.co.uk, reservations@numbersixteenhotel.co.uk).
$$$ The Claverley, two blocks from Harrods, is on a quiet street similar to Sumner Place. The 30 fancy, dark-wood-and-marble rooms come with all the comforts (S-£70, Sb-£80–110, Db-£120–190 depending on size, sofa-bed Tb-£190–215, ask for Rick Steves discount, plush lounge, non-smoking rooms, elevator, 13–14 Beaufort Gardens, Tube: Knightsbridge, tel. 020/7589-8541, fax 020/7584-3410, U.S. tel. 800/747-0398, www.claverleyhotel.co.uk, reservations@claverleyhotel.co.uk).
$$$ Jurys Kensington Hotel is big, stately, and impersonal, with a greedy pricing scheme (Sb/Db/Tb-£100–240 depending on "availability," ask for a deal, breakfast extra, piano lounge, non-smoking floor, elevator, Queen's Gate, tel. 020/7589-6300, fax 020/7581-1492, www.jurysdoyle.com, kensington@jurysdoyle.com).
Notting Hill Neighborhood
Residential Notting Hill has quick bus and Tube access to downtown, is on the A2 Airbus line from Heathrow, and, for London, is very "homely." It has a self-serve launderette on Moscow Road, an artsy theater, a late-hours supermarket, and lots of fun budget eateries.
$$$ Westland Hotel is comfortable, convenient, and hotelesque, with a fine lounge and spacious rooms. Rooms are recently refurbished and quite plush (Sb-£80–90, Db-£95–105, cavernous deluxe Db-£110–125, sprawling Tb-£120–140, gargantuan Qb-£135–160, Quint/b-£150–170, 10 percent discount with this book for first visit if claimed upon arrival; elevator, free garage with 6 spaces; between Notting Hill Gate and Queensway Tube stations; 154 Bayswater Road, tel. 020/7229-9191, fax 020/7727-1054, www.westlandhotel.co.uk, reservations@westlandhotel.co.uk).
$$$ Vicarage Private Hotel, understandably popular, is family-run and elegantly British in a quiet, classy neighborhood. It has 17 rooms furnished with taste and quality, a TV lounge, and facilities on each floor. Mandy, Richard, and Krassi maintain a homey and caring atmosphere (S-£46, Sb-£75, D-£78, Db-£102, T-£95, Tb-£130, Q-£102, Qb-£140, no CC, 6-min walk from Notting Hill Gate and High Street Kensington Tube stations, near Kensington Palace at 10 Vicarage Gate, tel. 020/7229-4030, fax 020/7792-5989, www.londonvicaragehotel.com, reception@londonvicaragehotel.com).
$$ Abbey House Hotel, next door, is basic but its 16 rooms are bright, friendly, and sleepable (S-£45, D-£74, T-£90, Q-£100, Quint-£110, no CC, 11 Vicarage Gate, tel. 020/7727-2594, fax 020/7727-1873, www.abbeyhousekensington.com, abbeyhousedesk@btconnect.com, Rodrigo).
$ Norwegian YWCA(Norsk K.F.U.K.) is for women under 30 only (and men under 30 with Norwegian passports). Located on a quiet, stately street, it offers non-smoking rooms, a study, TV room, piano lounge, and an open-face Norwegian ambience. They have mostly quads, so those willing to share with strangers are most likely to get a bed (July–Aug: Ss-£32, shared double-£30/bed, shared triple-£25/bed, shared quad-£21/bed, includes breakfast and sack lunch; Sept–June: same prices also include dinner; 52 Holland Park, tel. 020/7727-9897, fax 020/7727-8718, www.kfuk.dial.pipex.com, kfuk.hjemmet@kfuk-kfum.no). With each visit, I wonder which is easier to get — a sex change or a Norwegian passport?
Near Kensington Gardens
Several big old hotels line the quiet Kensington Gardens, a block off the bustling Queensway shopping street near the Bayswater Tube station. Popular with young international travelers, Queensway is a multicultural festival of commerce and eateries (such as Mr. Wu's Chinese Restaurant and the Whiteleys Mall Food Court ). These hotels are very quiet for central London. One of several launderettes in the neighborhood is Brookford Wash & Dry, at Queensway and Bishop's Bridge Road (daily 7:00–19:30, service from 9:00–17:30, computerized pay point takes all coins).
$$$ Phoenix Hotel, a Best Western modernization of a 125-room hotel, offers American business-class comforts; spacious, plush public spaces; and big, fresh, modern-feeling rooms (Sb-£99, Db-£130, Tb-£165, Qb-£185, flaky "negotiable" pricing list, discount for online bookings, elevator, 1–8 Kensington Gardens Square, tel. 020/7229-2494, fax 020/7727-1419, U.S. tel. 800/528-1234, www.phoenixhotel.co.uk, info@phoenixhotel.co.uk).
$$ Garden CourtHotel rents 34 comfortable, smoke-free rooms. It's newly refurbished and has a garden (S-£40, Sb-£62, D-£64, Db-£92, T-£84, Tb-£114, Q-£94, Qb-£135, 5 percent discount with this book through 2005, elevator, 30 Kensington Gardens Square, tel. 020/7229-2553, fax 020/7727-2749, www.gardencourthotel.co.uk, info@gardencourthotel.co.uk).
$$ Kensington Gardens Hotel laces 16 decent rooms together in a tall, skinny place with lots of stairs and no lift (Ss-£45–50, Sb-£50–55, Db-£75, Tb-£95, 9 Kensington Gardens Square, tel. 020/7221-7790, fax 020/7792-8612, www.kensingtongardenshotel.co.uk, info@kensingtongardenshotel.co.uk, charming Rowshanak).
$$ Vancouver Studios offers 45 modern rooms with fully-equipped kitchenettes (utensils, stove, microwave, and fridge) rather than breakfast (small Sb-£65, small Db-£85, big Db-£95, Tb-£120, extra bed-£18, 10 percent discount with week-long stay or more, call to confirm a night or two before, lounge and garden, 30 Prince's Square, tel. 020/7243-1270, fax 020/7221-8678, www.vancouverstudios.co.uk, info@vancouverstudios.co.uk).
$ London House Budget Hotel is a threadbare, nose-ringed slumber mill renting 240 beds in 93 stark rooms (S-£43, Sb-£48, twin-£57, Db-£71, dorm bed-£16, prices flex downward with demand, includes continental breakfast, lots of school groups, 81 Kensington Gardens Square, tel. 020/7243-1810, fax 020/7243-1723, www.londonhousehotel.com, londonhousehotel@yahoo.co.uk).
Other Neighborhoods
Near Covent Garden: $$$ Fielding House Hotel, located on a charming, quiet, pedestrian street just two blocks east of Covent Garden, offers 24 no-nonsense rooms, bright orange hallways, and lots of stairs (Db-£100–115, Db with sitting room-£130, no breakfast, no smoking, no kids under 13, 4 Broad Court, Bow Street, tel. 020/7836-8305, fax 020/7497-0064, www.the-fielding-hotel.co.uk).
Downtown near Baker Street: $$$ The 22 York Street B&B offers a less hotelesque alternative in the center, renting 18 stark, hardwood, comfortable rooms (Db-£100, Tb-£141, strictly smoke-free, social breakfast, inviting lounge; from Baker Street Tube station, walk 2 blocks down Baker Street and take a right, 22 York Street; tel. 020/7224-3990, fax 020/7224-1990, www.22yorkstreet.co.uk, michael@22yorkstreet.co.uk, energetically run by Liz and Michael).
Near Buckingham Palace: $$ Vandon House Hotel, run by the Central College in Iowa, is packed with students most of the year, but its 33 rooms are rented to travelers from late May through August at great prices. The rooms, while institutional, are comfy, and the location is excellent (S-£43, D-£68, Db-£84, Tb-£99, Qb-£118, only single beds, non-smoking, elevator, on a tiny road 2 blocks west of St. James Park Tube station, near east end of Petty France Street at 1 Vandon Street, tel. 020/7799-6780, fax 020/7799-1464, www.vandonhouse.com, info@vandonhouse.com).
Euston Station: The $$ Methodist International Centre, a modern, youthful, Christian residence, fills its lower floors with international students and its top floor with travelers. Rooms are modern and simple yet comfortable, with fine bathrooms, phones, and desks. The atmosphere is friendly, safe, clean, and controlled; it also has a spacious lounge and game room (Sb-£67, Db-£84, 2-course buffet dinner-£11, non-smoking rooms, elevator, on a quiet street a block west of Euston Station, 81–103 Euston Street — not Euston Road, Tube: Euston Station, tel. 020/7380-0001, fax 020/7387-5300, www.micentre.com, acc@micentre.com). In June, July, and August, when the students are gone, they also rent simple £38 singles.
Hostels
$ The St. Christopher's Inn hostel network offers £15-25 beds at six locations throughout London, including Southwark, Shepherd's Bush, Camden, and Greenwich. For details, see www.st-christophers.co.uk.
$ The City of London Youth Hostel , near St. Paul's, is clean, modern, friendly, and well-run. You'll pay £15 per bed in an 11-bed dorm, about £25 for a bed in their three- to eight-bed rooms, or £30 for a single room (£2 extra if you have no hostel card, 193 beds, cheap meals, open 24 hrs, Tube: St. Paul's, 36 Carter Lane, tel. 020/7236-4965, fax 020/7236-7681, www.yha.org.uk, city@yha.org.uk).
Near Gatwick and Heathrow Airports
Near Gatwick Airport: $ London Gatwick Airport Premier Travel Inn rents cheap rooms at the airport (Db-£55, tel. 0870-238-3305, www.premiertravelinn.co.uk). $ Gatwick Travelodge has budget rooms two miles from the airport (Db-£50, breakfast extra, Church Road, Lowfield Heath, Crawley, tel. 0870-191-1531, www.travelodge.co.uk).
$ Barn Cottage, a converted 16th-century barn, sits in the peaceful countryside, with a tennis court, small swimming pool, and a good pub within walking distance.Ithas two wood-beamed rooms, antique furniture, and a large garden that makes you forget Gatwick is 10 minutes away (S-£45, D-£60, no CC, can drive you to airport or train station for £8, Church Road, Leigh, Reigate, Surrey, tel. 01306/611-347, warmly run by Pat and Mike Comer).
$ Wayside Manor Farm is another rural alternative to a bland airport hotel. This four-bedroom countryside place is a 10-minute drive from Gatwick (Db-£65, Norwood Hill, near Charlwood, tel. 01293/862-692, www.wayside-manor.com, info@wayside-manor.com).
Near Heathrow Airport: It's so easy to get to Heathrow from central London, I see no reason to sleep there. But for budget beds near the airport, consider $ Heathrow Ibis (Db-£65, Db-£45 on Fri–Sun nights, breakfast extra, cheap shuttle bus to/from terminals except T-4, 112 Bath Road, tel. 020/8759-4888, fax 020/8564-7894, www.ibishotel.com, h0794@accor-hotels.com).