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Sleeping in Paris

I've focused most of my recommendations on three safe, handy, and colorful neighborhoods: the village-like rue Cler (near the Eiffel Tower ), artsy and trendy Marais (near place de la Bastille), and lively and Latin yet classy Luxembourg (on the Left Bank ). I've also included a review of good budget hotels for several other areas.

For each neighborhood, I list good hotels, helpful hints, and a selection of restaurants. Before choosing a hotel, read the descriptions of the three neighborhoods closely. Each offers different pros and cons, and your neighborhood is as important as your hotel for the success of your trip. Less expensive and less central accommodations are also listed in various chapters: Versailles , Chartres , Day Trips ( Fontainebleau , Giverny, Auvers-sur-Oise, and Disneyland Paris), and Shopping (place de Bercy). For accommodations near the two major airports, see Transportation Connections..

Reserve ahead for Paris — the sooner the better. Conventions clog Paris in September (worst), October, May, and June (very tough). Holidays are busy. In 2005, be ready for unusually big crowds during these holiday periods: Easter week (March 21-29), Ascension weekend (May 5–8), Bastille Day (July 14), Assumption (Aug 15), All Saints' Day weekend (Oct 28–Nov 1), Armistice Day weekend (Nov 11-13), and the winter holidays (Dec 20-Jan 5). In late July and August, when Paris is quiet, some hotels offer lower rates. But August is also a time when paying extra for a place with air-conditioning can be money well spent. If you're considering a 3-4 star hotel, check their website for occasional promotional rates (usually in the dead of winter and in summer). For tips on reserving hotels, see "Making Reservations," below.

A comfortable hotel in Paris costs less than a comparable hotel in London , Amsterdam , Rome , or in most major U.S. cities. It's a good hotel city. Still, reserve as far as possible in advance for the best values. I like places that are clean, small, central, traditional, friendly, and a good value. Most places I list have at least four of these six virtues.

In this book, the price for a double room will normally range from about €50 (very simple, toilet and shower down the hall) to €250 (grand lobbies, maximum plumbing, and the works), with most clustering around €85–125.

Hotels

The French have a simple hotel rating system depending on amenities (zero through four stars, indicated in this book by * through ****). One star is simple, two has most of the comforts, and three is generally just a two-star with a fancier lobby and more elaborately designed rooms. Four stars offer more luxury than you have time to appreciate. Two- and three-star hotels are required to have an English-speaking staff, though virtually all hotels we recommend have someone who speaks English.

Generally the number of stars does not reflect room size or guarantee quality. Some two-star hotels are better than many three-star hotels. One- and two-star hotels are inexpensive, but some three-star (and even a few four-star hotels) offer good value, justifying the extra cost. Unclassified hotels (no stars) can be bargains or depressing dumps. Look before you leap and lay before you pay (upon departure).

Old, characteristic, budget Parisian hotels have always been cramped. Retrofitted with toilets, private showers, and elevators (as most are today), they are even more cramped. Recommended hotels have an elevator unless otherwise noted.

Most hotels have lots of doubles and a few singles, triples, and quads. Traveling alone can be expensive as singles (except for the rare closet-type rooms that fit only one twin bed) are simply doubles used by one person — so they cost about the same as a double. Room prices vary within each hotel depending on size, and whether the room has a bath or shower and twin beds or a double bed (tubs and twins cost more than showers and double beds). A triple and a double are often the same room, with a double bed and a sliver-sized single, and quad rooms usually have two double beds. Hotels cannot legally allow more in the room than what's shown on their price list. Modern hotels generally have a few family-friendly rooms that open to each other (chambres communiquantes).

Receptionists often don't mention the cheaper rooms (they assume you want a private bathroom or a bigger room). Study the price list on the website or posted at the desk. Here are the types of rooms and beds:

You can save as much as €20–25 by finding the rare room without a private shower or toilet. A room with a bathtub costs €5–10 more than a room with a shower and is generally larger. Hotels often have more rooms with tubs than showers and are inclined to give you a room with a tub (which the French prefer).

A double bed is €5–10 cheaper than twins, though rooms with twin beds tend to be larger and French double beds are smaller than American double beds. Some hotels have queen-size beds (a bed that's 63 inches wide — most doubles are 55). To see if a hotel has queen-size beds, ask, "Avez-vous un lit de cent-soixante?," (ah-vay-voo uh lee duh sahn-swah-sahnt). Some hotels push two twins together under king-size sheets and blankets.

If you prefer a double bed (instead of twins) and a shower (instead of a tub), you need to ask for it — and you'll save up to €30 at more expensive hotels. If you'll take either twins or a double, ask generically for unechambre pour deux (room for two) to avoid being needlessly turned away.

You'll almost always have the option of breakfast at your hotel, which is pleasant and convenient, but it's more than the price of breakfast at the corner café, with less ambience (though you get more coffee at your hotel). Some hotels offer only the classic continental breakfast for about €6–9, but others offer buffet breakfasts for about €8–14 (cereal, yogurt, fruit, cheese, croissants, juice, and hard-boiled eggs) — which I usually spring for. While hotels hope you'll buy their breakfast, it's optional unless otherwise noted.

French hotels must charge a daily room tax (taxe du séjour) that is normally added to the bill (about €1 per person per day). While some hotels include it in the price list, most add it to your bill.

Rooms are safe. Still, keep cameras and money out of sight. Towels aren't routinely replaced every day; drip-dry and conserve. If that French Lincoln-log pillow isn't your idea of comfort, American-style pillows (and extra blankets) are sometimes in the closet or available on request. To get a pillow, ask for "Un oreiller, s'il vous plaît" (un oh-ray-yay, see voo play). If you're planning to visit Paris in the summer, the extra expense of an air-conditioned room can be money well spent. When using the air-conditioner, remember that 20 degrees Celsius = 68 degrees Fahrenheit (also see thermometer diagram in appendix).

Get advice from your hotel for safe parking (consider long-term parking at either airport — Orly is closer — and a taxi in). Garages are plentiful (€20-25/day, with special rates through some hotels). Meters are free in August.

Your hotelier can direct you to the nearest Internet café (café internet, kah-fay an-ter-net) and self-service launderette (laverie automatique, lah-vay-ree oh-to-mah-teek).

Hostels

Parisian hostels charge about €26 per bed. Some require a hostel membership. Get a hostel card before you go if you need one. Travelers of any age are welcome if they don't mind dorm-style accommodations and meeting other travelers. Travelers without a hostel card can generally spend the night for a small, extra "one-night membership" fee at those places requiring membership. Cheap meals are sometimes available, and kitchen facilities are usually provided for do-it-yourselfers.

Apartments

It's easy, though not necessarily cheaper, to rent a furnished apartment in Paris. Consider this option if you're either traveling with a family or staying two weeks or longer. For listings, see the end of this chapter.

Country Code

To phone France, you'll need to know its country code: 33. To call France from the United States or Canada, dial 011 - 33 - local number (without the initial 0). If calling France from another European country, dial 00 - 33 - local number (without the initial 0).

Making Reservations

Reserve ahead for Paris, the sooner the better. To reserve from home, email, fax, or call the hotel. Email is preferred. Phone and fax costs are reasonable. To fax, use the form in the appendix or print a copy from www.ricksteves.com/reservation. Most hotels listed are accustomed to English-only speakers.

If you're not sure how long you'll stay, guess long (it's hard to add days at the last minute), but then cancel once you know the real length of your stay — some hotels require seven days notice.

A two-night stay in August would be "2 nights, 16/8/05 to 18/8/05" — Europeans write the date day/month/year, and European hotel jargon uses your day of departure.

If you email or fax a reservation request and receive a response with rates and stating that rooms are available, this is not a confirmation. You must confirm that the rates are fine and that indeed you want the room. One night's deposit is generally required. A credit card will usually be accepted as a deposit, though you may need to send a signed traveler's check or a bank draft in the local currency. Don't give your credit-card number as a deposit unless you're absolutely sure you want to stay at the hotel on the dates you requested and are clear that they have a room available. If you don't show up, you'll be billed for one night, and even if you cancel, you may not receive your entire deposit back.

Reconfirm your reservation a few days in advance for safety. Be sure to honor (or cancel) your reservation.

Rue Cler Orientation

Rue Cler, lined with open-air produce stands six days a week, is a safe, tidy, village-like pedestrian street. It's so French that when I step out of my hotel in the morning, I feel like I must have been a poodle in a previous life. How such coziness lodged itself between the high-powered government district and the wealthy Eiffel Tower and Invalides areas, I'll never know. This is a neighborhood of wide, tree-lined boulevards, stately apartment buildings, and lots of Americans. The American Church, American Library, American University, and many of my readers call this area home.

Become a local at a rue Cler café for breakfast or join the afternoon crowd for une bière pression (a draft beer). On rue Cler, you can eat and browse your way through a street full of pastry shops, delis, cheese shops, and colorful outdoor produce stalls. Afternoon boules (lawn bowling) on the Esplanade des Invalides is a relaxing spectator sport (look for the dirt area to the upper right as you face Les Invalides). The manicured gardens behind the golden dome of Les Invalides are free, peaceful, and filled with flowers (at southwest corner of grounds, close at about 19:00). Take an evening stroll above the river through the parkway between pont de l'Alma and pont des Invalides.

For an after-dinner cruise on the Seine, it's a 15-minute walk to the river and the Bateaux-Mouches. For a post-dinner cruise on foot, saunter into Champ de Mars park to admire the glowing Eiffel Tower.

Cross the Champ de Mars park to mix it up with bargain-hunters at the twice-weekly open-air market, Marché Boulevard de Grenelle, under the Métro a few blocks southwest of Champ de Mars park (Wed and Sun until 12:30, between Mo: Dupleix and Mo: La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle). The Epicerie de la Tour grocery is open until midnight (197 rue de Grenelle). Rue St. Dominique is the area's boutique-browsing street. Cyber World Café is at 20 rue de l'Exposition (open daily 12:00-22:00, Sun until 20:00, tel. 01 53 59 96 54).

Your neighborhood TI is at the Eiffel Tower (May–Sept daily 11:00–18:42, closed Oct–April, all-Paris TI tel. 08 36 68 31 12). There's a post office at the end of rue Cler on avenue de la Motte-Picquet, and a handy SNCF train office at 78 rue St. Dominique (Mon–Fri 9:00–19:00, Sat 10:00–12:30 & 14:00–18:00, closed Sun).

The American Church and Franco-American Center is the community center for Americans living in Paris and should be one of your first stops if you're planning to stay awhile (reception open Mon–Sat 9:00–22:00, Sun 9:00–19:30, 65 quai d'Orsay, tel. 01 40 62 05 00). Pick up a copy of the Paris Voice for a monthly review of Paris entertainment, and France-U.S.A. Contacts for info rmation on housing and employment through the community of 30,000 Americans living in Paris. The interdenominational services at 11:00 on Sunday, the coffee hour after church, and the free Sunday concerts (Sept–May 18:00, not every week) are a great way to make some friends and get a taste of émigré life in Paris.

Key Métro stops are Ecole Militaire, La Tour -Maubourg, and Invalides. The RER-C line runs from the Pont de l'Alma and Invalides stations, serving Versailles to the west; Auvers-sur-Oise to the north; and the Orsay Museum, Latin Quarter (St. Michel stop), and Austerlitz train station to the east.

Smart travelers take advantage of these helpful bus routes: Line #69 runs along rue St. Dominique and serves Les Invalides, Orsay, Louvre, Marais, and Père Lachaise Cemetery. Line #63 runs along the river (the quai d'Orsay), serving the Latin Quarter along boulevard St. Germain to the east, and Trocadéro and the Marmottan Museum to the west. Line #92 runs along avenue Bosquet north to the Champs-Elysées and Arc de Triomphe (far better than the Métro) and south to the Montparnasse Tower. Line #87 runs on avenue de la Bourdonnais and serves St. Sulpice, Luxembourg Garden, and the Sèvres-Babylone shopping area (also more convenient than Métro for these destinations). Line #28 runs on boulevard de la Tour -Maubourg and serves Gare St. Lazare.

In the Rue Cler Neighborhood

(7th arrondissement, Mo: Ecole Militaire or La Tour -Maubourg)

Rue Cler is the glue that holds this handsome neighborhood together. From here you can walk to the Eiffel Tower, Napoleon's Tomb, the Seine River, and the Orsay and Rodin Museums. Hotels here are relatively spacious and a good value, considering the elegance of the neighborhood and the higher prices of the more cramped hotels in other central areas.

Many of my readers stay in this neighborhood. If you want to disappear into Paris, choose a hotel away from the rue Cler, or in the other neighborhoods I list. And if nightlife matters, sleep elsewhere. The first five hotels listed below are within Camembert-smelling distance of rue Cler; the others are within a 5- to 10-minute stroll.

The Heart of Rue Cler

$$$ Hôtel Relais Bosquet*** is modern, spacious, and a bit upscale, with snazzy, air-conditioned rooms, electric darkness blinds, and big beds. Gerard and his staff are politely formal and friendly (standard Db-€150, spacious Db-€170, Sb- €20 less, ask about occasional promotional rates, extra bed-€20, parking-€14, 19 rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 47 05 25 45, fax 01 45 55 08 24, www.relaisbosquet.com, hotel@relaisbosquet.com).

$$$ Hôtel la Motte Picquet***, at the end of rue Cler, is an elaborately decorated, plush place with 18 adorable and spendy rooms. Most face a busy street but the twins are on the quieter side (Sb-€115–125, standard Db-€130, bigger Db with air-con-€165, 30 avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 47 05 09 57, fax 01 47 05 74 36, www.paris-hotel-mottepicquet.com, book@hotel-mottepicquet.com).

$$ Hôtel Beaugency***, on a quieter street a short block off rue Cler,has30small, cookie-cutter rooms, a helpful staff, and a lobby you can stretch out in (Sb-€106, Db-€125, Tb-€145, air-con, 21 rue Duvivier, tel. 01 47 05 01 63, fax 01 45 51 04 96, www.hotel-beaugency.com, info s@hotel-beaugency.com).

Warning: The next two hotels listed here are busy with my readers (reserve long in advance).

$ GrandHôtel Lévêque** is ideally located, with a helpful staff (Christophe and female Pascale SE), a singing maid, and a Starship Enterprise elevator. The simple but well-designed rooms have all the comforts, including air-conditioning and ceiling fans (S-€57, Db-€87–93-110, Tb-€125 for 2 adults and 1 child only, breakfast-€8, first breakfast free for readers of this book, 29 rue Cler, tel. 01 47 05 49 15, fax 01 45 50 49 36, www.hotel-leveque.com, info @hotel-leveque.com).

$ Hôtel du Champ de Mars**, with charming pastel rooms and helpful English-speaking owners Françoise and Stephane, is a homier rue Cler option. This plush little hotel has a Provence-style, small-town feel from top to bottom. Rooms are small, but comfortable and an excellent value. Single rooms can work as tiny doubles (Sb-€70, Db-€76–85, Tb-€98, 30 yards off rue Cler at 7 rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 45 51 52 30, fax 01 45 51 64 36, www.hotel-du-champ-de-mars.com, stg@club-internet.fr).

Near Rue Cler, close to Ecole Militaire Métro

The following listings are a 5- to 10-minute walk from rue Cler, near Métro stop Ecole Militaire or RER stop Pont de l'Alma.

$$$ Hôtel le Tour ville**** is the most classy and expensive of my rue Cler listings. This four-star place is surprisingly intimate, from its designer lobby and vaulted breakfast area to its pretty but small pastel rooms (small standard Db-€165, superior Db-€215, Db with private terrace-€240, junior suite for 3–4 people-€310-330, air-con, 16 avenue de Tour ville, tel. 01 47 05 62 62, fax 01 47 05 43 90, www.hoteltourville.com, hotel@tourville.com).

$$$ Hôtel de la Bourdonnais*** is a très Parisian place, mixing Old World elegance with professional service, comfortable public spaces, and mostly spacious, traditionally decorated rooms (avoid the few petite rooms, Sb-€125, Db-€155, Tb-€175, Qb-€195, 5-person suite-€210, air-con, Internet access, 111 avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 45 42, fax 01 45 55 75 54, www.hotellabourdonnais.fr, otbourd@club-internet.fr).

$$ Hôtel Prince**, across avenue Bosquet from the Ecole Militaire Métro stop, has good-enough rooms, air-conditioning, and reasonable rates (Sb-€73, Db-€87-113, Tb-€120, 66 avenue Bosquet, tel. 01 47 05 40 90, fax 01 47 53 06 62, www.hotel-paris-prince.com).

$ Eber-Mars Hôtel**, on a busy street with oak-paneled public spaces, is a good midrange value with larger-than-average rooms and a beam-me-up-Jacques coffin-sized elevator (standard Db-€80, large Db-€95-115, Tb-€140, Qb-€160, pricey €10 breakfast, 117 avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 42 30, fax 01 47 05 45 91, www.hotelebermars.com, reservation@hotelebermars.com).

$ Hôtel Royal Phare** is a simple yet solid value facing the busy Ecole Militaire Métro stop with a "we try harder" staff. The 34 rooms are unimaginative but pink-pastel-comfortable; those on the courtyard are quietest (Sb-€68, Db-€72-82, Tb-€105, 40 avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 47 05 57 30, fax 01 45 51 64 41, www.hotel-royalphare-paris.com, royalphare-hotel@wanadoo.fr).

$ Hôtel de Turenne**, is a basic, well-located place with the cheapest air-conditioned rooms I found. While the rooms could use some work, the price is right. There are five truly single rooms and several connecting rooms good for families (Sb-€63, Db-€72–85, Tb-€100, extra bed-€10, 20 avenue de Tour ville, tel. 01 47 05 99 92, fax 01 45 56 06 04, hotel.turenne.paris7@wanadoo.fr).

Near Rue Cler, closer to Rue St. Dominique (and the Seine)

$$ Hôtel Londres Eiffel*** is my closest listing to the Eiffel Tower and Champ de Mars park. It offers immaculate, warmly decorated rooms, cozy public spaces, Internet access, and air-conditioning. The helpful staff takes good care of their guests. It's less convenient to the Métro (10-min walk); handy bus #69 and the RER stop Pont de l'Alma are better options (Sb-€99-105, Db-€110-145, deluxe Db-€175, Tb-€165-195, extra bed-€20, 1 rue Augerau, tel. 01 45 51 63 02, fax 01 47 05 28 96, www.londres-eiffel.com, info @londres-eiffel.com).

$$ Hôtel de la Tulipe*** is a unique place three blocks from rue Cler toward the river, with friendly Bernhard behind the desk. The smallish but artistically decorated rooms — each one different — come with little, stylish bathrooms and surround a seductive wood-beamed lounge and a peaceful, leafy courtyard (Db-€110-140, Tb-€180, 2-room suite-€250, no elevator, no air-con, 33 rue Malar, tel. 01 45 51 67 21, fax 01 47 53 96 37, www.paris-hotel-tulipe.com). [note: keep all hyphens in web address]

$ Hôtel de l'Alma** is a basic place but well-located on "restaurant row," with cheery rooms, small bathrooms, a petite courtyard, and reasonable rates through 2005 with this book (Sb-€80, Db-€90, includes breakfast, 32 rue de l'Exposition, tel. 01 47 05 45 70, fax 01 45 51 84 47, www.alma-paris-hotel.com, Carine SE).

Near Métro: La Tour -Maubourg

The next three listings are within two blocks of the intersection of avenue de la Motte-Picquet and boulevard de la Tour-Maubourg.

$$$ Hôtel les Jardins Eiffel***, on a quiet street, feels like a modern motel, but earns its three stars with professional service, its own parking garage, a spacious lobby, and 80 comfortable (if unimaginative), air-conditioned rooms — some with private balconies (ask for a room avec petit balcon). Even better: Readers of this book get free buffet breakfasts (Sb-€100-136, Db-€115–€165, extra bed-€25-35 or free for a child, parking-€20/day, Internet access, 8 rue Amélie, tel. 01 47 05 46 21, fax 01 45 55 28 08, www.hoteljardinseiffel.com, paris@hoteljardinseiffel.com).

$$ Hôtel Muguet**, a peaceful, stylish, and immaculate refuge, gives you three-star comfort for a two-star price. This delightful place offers 48 tasteful, air-conditioned rooms, a greenhouse lounge, and a small garden courtyard. The hands-on owner, Catherine, gives her guests a restful and secure home in Paris (Sb-€90, Db-€100-108, Tb-€140, 11 rue Chevert, tel. 01 47 05 05 93, fax 01 45 50 25 37, www.hotelmuguet.com, muguet@wanadoo.fr).

$ Hôtel de l'Empereur** lacks intimacy but is roomy and a fair value. Its 38 pleasant rooms come with real wood furniture, and all the comforts except air-conditioning. Streetside rooms have views but some noise; fifth-floor rooms have small balconies and Napoleonic views (Sb-€70–80, Db-€80-100, Tb-€120, Qb-€140, 2 rue Chevert, tel. 01 45 55 88 02, fax 01 45 51 88 54, www.hotelempereur.com, contact@hotelempereur.com).

The Other Side Of Champs de Mars Park

To stay in a peaceful neighborhood with many qualities of the rue Cler area (in the 7th arrondissement), cross Champs de Mars park and enter the 15th arrondissement. While it's a 10- to 15-minute walk to rue Cler, you get more space for your money and fewer fellow Americans.

$$ Hôtel Ares*** is handsome and situated on a quiet street a block toward the river from avenue de le Motte-Picquet. It has a classy lobby with elbow room, and pastel-soft rooms you can stretch out in (Sb-€115, Db-€135, Tb-€170, Qb-€200, between avenue de Suffren and boulevard de Grenelle — not to be confused with rue de Grenelle that crosses rue Cler, from the Métro follow rue d'Ouessant one block and turn right, 7 rue du Général de Larminat, Mo: La Motte-Picquet-Grenelle, tel. 01 47 34 74 04, fax 01 47 34 48 56, www.paris-hotel-ares.com, aresotel@easynet.fr).

Lesser Values in the Rue Cler Area

Given this fine area, these are acceptable last choices.

$$$ Hôtel du Cadran***, while perfectly located, has a nice lobby but little charm in its tight and narrow rooms (Db-€152–170, air-con, 10 rue du Champ de Mars, tel. 01 40 62 67 00, fax 01 40 62 67 13, www.hotelducadran.com).

$$$ Hôtel Splendid*** is Art Deco modern, professional, and worth your while if you land one of its three suites with great Eiffel Tower views. Sixth-floor rooms have small terraces and sideways tower views, all rooms seem pricey and need sprucing up. Ask about their occasional promotional rates (Db-€134–165, Db with balcony and view-€180, Db suite-€200-230, 29 avenue de Tour ville, tel. 01 45 51 24 77, fax 01 44 18 94 60, www.hotels-exclusive.com/hotels/splendid, splendid@club-internet.fr).

$$$ Best Western Eiffel Park***, is a dead-quiet, concrete business hotel with all the comforts, a friendly staff, 36 pleasant if unexceptional rooms, and a nifty and spacious rooftop terrace (Db-€135-185, occasional promotional rates, 17 bis rue Amélie, tel. 01 45 55 10 01, fax 01 47 05 28, 68, www.eiffelpark.com, reservation@eiffelpark.com).

$$ Hôtel Amélie**, in a skinny building, is a midrange possibility with no lobby, no elevator, and shabby halls but decent rooms (Db-€95-105, 5 rue Amélie, tel. 01 45 51 74 75, fax 01 45 56 93 55, www.hotelamelie.com, hotelamelie@wanadoo.fr).

$ Hôtel Kensington** has miniscule rooms and little personality, but is a fair value (Sb-€55, Db-€70–86, 79 avenue de la Bourdonnais, tel. 01 47 05 74 00, fax 01 47 05 25 81, www.hotel-kensington.com, hk@hotel-kensington.com).

$ Hôtel de la Tour Eiffel** is a modest little place with fairly priced rooms, but cheap furnishings and foam mattresses (Sb-€70, Db-€85, Tb-€105, 17 rue de l'Exposition, tel. 01 47 05 14 75, fax 01 47 53 99 46, hte7@wanadoo.fr).

$ Hôtel de la Paix **, located away from the fray on a quiet street, is a reasonable value but is poorly managed and asks for full payment up front (Sb-€68, Db-€98-110, Tb-€120, good breakfast, 19 rue du Gros-Caillou, tel. 01 45 51 86 17, fax 01 45 55 93 28, hotel.de.la.paix@wanadoo.fr).

$ Hôtel le Pavillon** is quiet, with basic rooms, no elevator, and cramped halls in a charming location (Sb-€80, Db-€90, Tb, Qb, or Quint/b-€135, 54 rue St. Dominique, tel. 01 45 51 42 87, fax 01 45 51 32 79, PatrickPavillon@aol.com).

Marais Orientation

Those interested in a more Soho/Greenwich Village locale should make the Marais their Parisian home. Only 15 years ago, it was a forgotten Parisian backwater, but now the Marais is one of Paris' most popular residential, tourist, and shopping areas. This is jumbled, medieval Paris at its finest, where classy stone mansions sit alongside trendy bars, antique shops, and fashion-conscious boutiques. The streets are a fascinating parade of artists, students, tourists, immigrants, and babies in strollers munching baguettes. The Marais is also known as a hub of the Parisian gay and lesbian scene. This area is sans doubt livelier (and louder) than the rue Cler area.

In the Marais, you have these sights close at hand: Picasso Museum, Carnavalet Museum, Victor Hugo's House, Jewish Art and History Museum, and the Pompidou Center. You're also a manageable walk from Paris' two islands (Ile St. Louis and Ile de la Cité), home to Notre-Dame and the Sainte-Chapelle. The Opéra Bastille, Promenade Plantée park, place des Vosges (Paris' oldest square), Jewish Quarter (rue des Rosiers), and nightlife-packed rue de Lappe are also walkable.

The Marais has two good open-air markets: the sprawling Marché de la Bastille on place de la Bastille (Thu and Sun until 12:30) and the more intimate, very local Marché de la place d'Aligre (daily 9:00–12:00, cross place de la Bastille and walk about 10 blocks down rue du Faubourg St. Antoine, turn right at rue de Cotte to place d'Aligre, or easier, take Métro line 8 from Bastille toward Créteil-Préfecture to the Ledru-Rollin stop and walk a few blocks southeast from there). Two little grocery shops are open until 23:00 on rue St. Antoine (near intersection with rue Castex).

The nearest TIs are in the Louvre (Wed–Mon 10:00–19:00, closed Tue) and Gare de Lyon (Mon-Sat 8:00–20:00, all-Paris TI tel. 08 36 68 31 12). Most banks and other services are on the main drag, rue de Rivoli, which becomes rue St. Antoine. For your Parisian Sears, find the BHV next to the Hôtel de Ville. Marais post offices are on rue Castex and on the corner of rue Pavée and rue des Francs Bourgeois. A rare Internet café, @aron, is at 3 rue des Ecouffes (tel. 01 42 71 05 07). The Marais is home to the friendliest English language bookstore in Paris, Red Wheelbarrow Books tore , with two stores (main store at 22 rue St. Paul, daily 10:00-19:00, Sun open at 14:00; children's bookstore at 13 rue Charles V, open Wed-Sun 10:00-19:00, closed Mon-Tue). These kind folks sell most of my books.

Métro service to the Marais neighborhood is excellent, with direct service to the Louvre, Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, La Défense (all on line 1), rue Cler area (line 8 from Bastille stop) and four major train stations: Gare de Lyon, Gare du Nord, Gare de l'Est, and Gare d'Austerlitz. Key Métro stops in the Marais are, from east to west: Bastille, St. Paul, and Hôtel de Ville (Sully-Morland, Pont Marie, and Rambuteau stops are also handy).There are also several helpful bus routes: Line #69 on rue St. Antoine takes you to the Louvre, Orsay, and Rodin museums, plus Napoleon's Tomb, and ends at the Eiffel Tower. Line #86 runs down boulevard Henri IV, crossing Ile St. Louis and serving the Latin Quarter along boulevard St. Germain. Line #87 follows a similar route but extends to the Eiffel Tower and rue Cler neighborhood. Line #96 runs on rues Turenne and François Miron and serves the Louvre and boulevard St. Germain (near Luxembourg Garden), ending at the Gare Montparnasse. Line #65 gets you to the Gare d'Austerlitz, Gare de l'Est, and Gare du Nord train stations from place de la Bastille.

You'll find taxi stands on place de la Bastille, on the north side of rue St. Antoine (where it meets rue Castex), and on the south side of rue St. Antoine (in front of St. Paul church).

In the Marais Neighborhood

(4th arrondissement)

The Marais runs from the Pompidou Center to the Bastille (a 15-min walk), with most hotels located a few blocks north of the main east–west drag, the rue de Rivoli/rue St. Antoine. It's about 15 minutes on foot from any hotel in this area to Notre-Dame, Ile St. Louis, and the Latin Quarter. Strolling home (day or night) from Notre-Dame along the Ile St. Louis is marvelous.

$$$ Hôtel des Chevaliers***, a pretty little boutique hotel one block northwest of place des Vosges, offers small, pleasant rooms with modern comforts, including air-conditioning. Eight of its 24 rooms are off the street and quiet — worth requesting (Sb-€125-135, Db-€140-150, 30 rue de Turenne, Mo: St. Paul, tel. 01 42 72 73 47, fax 01 42 72 54 10, info @hoteldeschevaliers.com).

$$ Hôtel Castex***, well-situated on a quiet street near the place de la Bastille, feels Spanish from the formal entry to the red-tiled floors and dark wood accents. A clever system of connecting rooms allows families total privacy between two rooms, each with its own bathroom. Rooms are narrow but tasteful and air-conditioned, and the elevator is big by Parisian standards. Your fourth night is free in August and from November through February — except around New Year's Eve (Sb-€95-115, Db-€120-140, Tb-€190-220, good €10 buffet breakfast is free through 2005 for readers of this book, just off place de la Bastille and rue St. Antoine, 5 rue Castex, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 42 72 31 52, fax 01 42 72 57 91, www.castexhotel.com, info @castexhotel.com).

$$ Hôtel Bastille Spéria***, a short block off the place de la Bastille, offers business-type service. The 42 well-configured rooms are modern and comfortable with big beds and air-conditioning. Walls are thin and the elevator operates at glacial speed but it's English-language-friendly, from the InternationalHerald Tribunes in the lobby to the history of the Bastille posted in the elevator (Sb-€100, Db-€125-140, child's bed-€20, excellent buffet breakfast-€12.50, 1 rue de la Bastille, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 42 72 04 01, fax 01 42 72 56 38, www.hotel-bastille-speria.com, info @hotel-bastille-speria.com).

$$ Hôtel St. Louis Marais** is a tiny, welcoming place, lost on a quiet residential street between the river and rue St. Antoine. The lobby is inviting and the 20 rooms are cozy but not air-conditioned (small Sb-€59, standard Sb-€91, small Db-€107, standard Db-€125, Tb-€140, no elevator but only three floors, ask about newer street-level annex rooms, bargain-priced parking-€12, 1 rue Charles V, Mo: Sully Morland, tel. 01 48 87 87 04, fax 01 48 87 33 26, www.saintlouismarais.com, slmarais@noos.fr).

$$ Hôtel de 7ème Art**, two blocks south of rue St. Antoine toward the river, is a relaxed, Hollywood-nostalgia place, run by hip, friendly, young people, with a full-service café-bar and Charlie Chaplin murals. Its 23 rooms lack imagination, but are comfortable and a fair value. The large rooms are American-spacious (small Db-€80, standard Db-€90–105, large Db-€115–140, extra bed-€20, 20 rue St. Paul, Mo: St. Paul, tel. 01 44 54 85 00, fax 01 42 77 69 10).

$ Grand Hôtel Jeanne d'Arc**, a well-tended hotel with thoughtfully appointed rooms, is ideally located for (and very popular with) connoisseurs of the Marais. Rooms on the street can be noisy until the bars close. Sixth-floor rooms have a view, and corner rooms are wonderfully bright in the City of Light, though no rooms are air-conditioned. Reserve this place way ahead (Sb-€57-70, Db-€80, larger twin Db-€95, Tb-€113, good Qb-€130, 3 rue de Jarente, Mo: St. Paul, tel. 01 48 87 62 11, fax 01 48 87 37 31, www.hoteljeannedarc.com, info rmation@hoteljeannedarc.com).

$ Hôtel Lyon-Mulhouse**, with half of its 40 pleasant rooms on a busy streetoff place de la Bastille, is a fair value. Its bigger, quieter rooms at the back are worth the extra euros (Sb-€65, Db-€70-75, twin Db-€85-90, Tb-€100, Qb-€120, no air-con, 8 boulevard Beaumarchais, Mo: Bastille, tel. 01 47 00 91 50, fax 01 47 00 06 31, hotelyonmulhouse@wanadoo.fr).

$ Hôtel Sévigné**, is a sharp little air-conditioned place with lavender halls, tidy, comfortable rooms at very fair prices, and an owner of few words (Sb-€64, Db-€74-86, Tb-€100, 2 rue Malher, Mo: St. Paul, tel. 01 42 72 76 17, fax 01 42 78 68 26, www.le-sevigne.com, contact@le-sevigne.com).

$ Hôtel Pointe Rivoli*, across from the St. Paul Métro stop, is a jumbled, treehouse of rooms in the thick of the Marais, with Paris' steepest stairs (no elevator) and modest rooms at reasonable rates (Sb-€70, Db-€80, Tb-€115, air-con promised for 2005 so rates may increase, 125 rue St. Antoine, Mo: St. Paul, tel. 01 42 72 14 23, fax 01 42 72 51 11, pointerivoli@libertysurf.fr).

Near the Pompidou Center

These hotels are farther west and closer to the Pompidou Center than to place de la Bastille. Métro stop Hôtel de Ville works well for all of these hotels, unless a closer stop is noted.

$$$ Hôtel Axial Beaubourg***, a block from Hôtel de Ville toward the Pompidou Center, has a minimalist lobby and 28 pricey but plush rooms, many with wood beams. If you cancel with less than seven days' notice, you'll lose your one-night deposit (standard Db-€165, big Db-€200, air-con, 11 rue du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 72 22, fax 02 42 72 03 53, www.axialbeaubourg.com, info s@axialbeaubourg.com).

$$$ Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais*** feels like a folk-museum, with its 20 sweet little rooms and a lobby cluttered with bits from an elegant 18th-century Marais house. Short antique collectors love this place (small back-side Db-€145, larger Db on the front–€160, air-con, Internet access, 12 rue Vieille du Temple, tel. 01 42 72 34 12, fax 01 42 72 34 63, www.carondebeaumarchais.com, hotel@carondebeaumarchais.com).

$$ Hôtel de la Bretonnerie***, three blocks from the Hôtel de Ville, makes a fine Marais home. It has an on-the-ball staff, a big, welcoming lobby, elegant decor, and tastefully-appointed rooms with an antique, open-beam warmth (perfectly good standard "classic" Db-€110, bigger "charming" Db-€145, Db suite-€180, Tb-€170, TB suite-€205, Qb suite-€245, between rue Vieille du Temple and rue des Archives at 22 rue Ste. Croix de la Bretonnerie, tel. 01 48 87 77 63, fax 01 42 77 26 78, www.bretonnerie.com, hotel@bretonnerie.com, Francoise SE).

$$ Hôtel de Vieux Marais** is tucked away on a quiet street two blocks east of the Pompidou Center and charges top euro in high season for its efficient rooms (Db-€115, €145 March-mid July, extra bed-€24, air-con, just off rue des Archives at 8 rue du Plâtre, Mo: Rambuteau or Hôtel de Ville, tel. 01 42 78 47 22, fax 01 42 78 34 32, www.vieuxmarais.com, hotel@vieuxmarais.com).

$$ Hôtel Beaubourg*** is a good three-star value on a quiet street in the shadow of the Pompidou Center. Its 28 rooms are wood-beam comfy and air-conditioned, and the inviting lounge is warm and pleasant (Db-€125-148, twins are considerably larger than doubles, includes breakfast, 11 rue Simon Le Franc, Mo: Rambuteau, tel. 01 42 74 34 24, fax 01 42 78 68 11, www.hotelbeaubourg.com, htlbeaubourg@hotellerie.net).

$$ Hôtel de Nice**, on the Marais' busy main drag, is a turquoise-and-rose, "Marie-Antoinette does tie-dye" place. Its narrow halls are littered with paintings and covered with carpets, and its 23 non-air-conditioned rooms are filled with thoughtful touches and include tight bathrooms. Twin rooms, which cost the same as doubles, are larger and on the street side — but have effective double-paned windows (Sb-€74, Db-€105, Tb-€128, Qb-€140, extra bed-€20, 42 bis rue de Rivoli, tel. 01 42 78 55 29, fax 01 42 78 36 07, www.hoteldenice.com, contact@hoteldenice.com).

$ Grand Hôtel du Loiret** is centrally-located, spartan, and basic, though the rooms are better than you might think (S-€48, Sb-€65, Db-€64-84, Tb-€95, 8 rue des Mauvais Garçons, tel. 01 48 87 77 00, fax 01 48 04 96 56, hotelduloiret@hotmail.com).

Near the Marais on Ile St. Louis

The peaceful, residential character of this river-wrapped island, its brilliant location, and homemade ice cream have drawn Americans for decades, allowing hotels to charge dearly for their rooms. There are no budget values here, but the island's coziness and proximity to the Marais, Notre-Dame, and the Latin Quarter compensate for higher rates. All are on the island's main drag, the rue St. Louis-en-l'Ile, where I list several restaurants. Use Mo: Pont Marie or Sully-Morland.

$$$ Hôtel du Jeu de Paume****, located in a 17th-century tennis center, is the most expensive hotel I list in Paris. When you enter its magnificent lobby, you'll understand why. Greet Scoop, the hotel dog, then ride the glass elevator for a half-timbered-treehouse experience, and marvel at the cozy lounges. The 30 quite comfortable rooms are carefully designed and très tasteful, though small for the price (you're paying for the location and public spaces). Most face a small garden and all are pin-drop peaceful (Sb-€160, standard Db-€225, larger Db-€240–270, deluxe Db-€295, Db suite-€480, 54 rue St. Louis-en-l'Ile, tel. 01 43 26 14 18, fax 01 40 46 02 76, www.jeudepaumehotel.com).

The following two hotels are owned by the same person. For both, if you must cancel, do so a week in advance or pay fees:

$$$ Hôtel de Lutèce*** is the better, cozier value on the island, with a sit-a-while wood-paneled lobby, a fireplace, and warmly designed air-conditioned rooms. Twin rooms are larger and the same price as double rooms (Db-€162, Tb-€180, 65 rue St. Louis-en-l'Ile, tel. 01 43 26 23 52, fax 01 43 29 60 25, www.hotel-ile-saintlouis.com, lutece@)hotel-ile-saintlouis.com).

$$$ Hôtel des Deux Iles*** is brighter and more colorful with marginally smaller rooms (Db-€162, 59 rue St. Louis-en-l'Ile, tel. 01 43 26 13 35, fax 01 43 29 60 25, 2isles@hotel-ile-saintlouis.com).

Luxembourg Orientation

This neighborhood revolves around Paris' loveliest park, and adds quick access to the city's best shopping streets and grandest café hopping. Sleeping in the Luxembourg area is a true Left Bank experience. The Luxembourg Garden, boulevard St. Germain, Cluny Museum, and Latin Quarter are all within easy walking distance. Here you get the best of both worlds: youthful Left Bank energy and the classy trappings that surround the monumental Panthéon and St. Sulpice church.

Having the Luxembourg Garden at your back door allows strolls through meticulously cared-for flowers, a great kids' play area, and a purifying escape from city traffic. Place St. Sulpice offers an elegant, pedestrian-friendly square and some of Paris' best boutiques. Sleeping in the Luxembourg area also puts several movie theaters at your fingertips (at Odéon Métro stop) as well as lively cafés on the boulevard St. Germain, rue de Buci, place de la Sorbonne and place de la Contrescarpe, all of which buzz with action until late.

Admire the Panthéon and Sorbonne University from the outside, observe Daniel Roth play the magnificent organ at St. Sulpice church, and peek inside the beautiful St. Etienne-du-Mont church. The colorful street market at the south end of rue Mouffetard is a worthwhile 10-15 minute walk down from these hotels (Tue–Sat 8:00–12:00 & 15:30–19:00, Sun 8:00–12:00, 5 blocks south of place de la Contrescarpe, Mo: Place Monge). The nearest TI is at the Louvre. Handy Internet service is between the Luxembourg Garden and Panthéon at 17 rue Soufflot (XS Arena, always open). The Village Voice bookstore carries a full selection of English-language books (including mine) and is near St. Sulpice (6 rue Princesse, tel. 01 46 33 36 47).

Métro lines #10 and #4 serve this area. Key stops are Cluny La Sorbonne, Mabillon, Odéon and St. Sulpice. RER line B provides direct service to Charles de Gaulle airport and Gare du Nord trains from the Luxembourg station. Buses #63, #86, and #87 run eastbound through this area on boulevard St. Germain and westbound along rue des Ecoles, stopping on place St. Sulpice. Line #63 provides a direct connection to the rue Cler area, and the Orsay, Invalides, Rodin and Marmottan museums. Lines #86 and #87 run to the Marais.

While it takes only 15 minutes to walk from one end of this neighborhood to the other, I've located the hotels by the key monument they are close to (St. Sulpice Church, the Odeon Theater, and the Panthéon). No hotel is further than a 5-minute walk from the Luxembourg Garden.

Hotels in the Luxembourgh Neighborhood

(6th arrondissement)
Near St. Sulpice Church

These hotels are all within a block of St. Sulpice, and two blocks from the famous boulevard St. Germain. This is nirvana for boutique-minded shoppers. Métro stops St. Sulpice and Mabillon are equally close.

$$$ Hôtel Relais St. Sulpice***, on the small street just behind St. Sulpice church, feels like a cozy bar with a melt-in-your-chair lounge and 26 beautifully designed, air-conditioned rooms, most of which surround a leafy glass atrium. The dazzling breakfast room sits below the atrium near the sauna (Db-€170-180-195-210 depending upon size, most Db-€170-180, beefy buffet breakfast-€12, 3 rue Garancière, tel. 01 46 33 99 00, fax 01 46 33 00 10, www.relais-saint-sulpice.com, relaisstsulpice@wanadoo.fr).

$$$ Hôtel la Perle*** is a pricey pearl in the thick of the lively rue des Canettes a block off place St. Sulpice. At this snappy, modern hotel, glass doors slide onto the traffic-free street, and a fun lobby built around a central bar and atrium greets you. Rooms are plush, air-conditioned, and wood-beamed (standard Db-€173, bigger Db-€195, luxury Db-€235, 14 rue des Canettes, tel. 01 43 29 10 10, fax 01 43 34 51 04, www.hotellaperle.com, booking@hotellaperle.com).

$$ Hôtel Bonaparte** sits between boutiques, a few steps from place St. Sulpice, on the smart rue Bonaparte. While the 29 air-conditioned rooms don't live up to the handsome entry, they are homey, comfortable, and generally spacious with big bathrooms, molded ceilings, and clashing bedspreads (Sb-€92-138, Db-€120, big Db-€154, Tb-€158, 61 rue Bonaparte, tel. 01 43 26 97 37, fax 01 46 33 57 67).

$$ Hôtel le Récamier** feels like grandma's house, tucked in the corner of place St. Sulpice. Flowery wallpaper, dark halls, and spotless, just-what-you-need rooms (with no TV!) — some with views of the square — make this a good, if somewhat pricey Paris refuge. How such a low-key place escaped the trendy style of other hotels in this chic area, I'll never know (S-€97, Sb-€110, D-€104, Db-€124-144, Tb-€176, Qb-€218, includes breakfast, 3 bis place St. Sulpice, tel. 01 43 26 04 89, fax 01 46 33 27 73, email address? You need a computer first).

Near the Odéon Theater

These hotels are between the Odéon Métro stop and Luxembourg Garden (5 blocks east of St. Sulpice) andmay have rooms when others don't. In addition to the Odéon Métro, the RER line B Luxembourg stop is a short walk away.

$$ Hôtel Michelet Odéon** sits shyly in a corner of place de l'Odéon, a block from the Luxembourg Garden. Most of the spacious, simple rooms have views and all have creaky floors (Db-€95-115, Tb-€135, Qb-€150, 6 place de l'Odéon, tel. 01 53 10 05 60, fax 01 46 34 55 35, www.hotelmicheletodeon.com, hotel@micheletodeon.com).

$$ Grand Hôtel des Balcons** has an inviting lobby and spick-and-span rooms with interesting colors and generous space. Some rooms have narrow balconies (Db-€100-120, big Db-€150, big Tb-€180, a block below the Odéon theater, 3 Casimir-Delavigne, tel. 01 46 34 78 50, fax 01 46 34 06 27, www.balcons.com, resa@balcons.com).

$$ Hôtel Delavigne*** has a warm lobby and appealing rooms (Db-€115-130, Tb-€130-145, tel. 01 43 29 31 50, fax 01 43 29 78 56, 1 rue Casimir-Delavigne, www.hoteldelavigne.com, resa@hoteldelavigne.com).

Near the Panthéon

Use Métro Cluny La Sorbonne or RER-B Luxembourg for the first five hotels listed . The first two wannabe-four-star hotels face the Panthéon's right transept and are owned by the same family (ask about their promotional rates, which may be available anytime, even during some summer weeks). The rates are high and the rooms aren't big, but the quality is tops.

$$$ Hôtel du Panthéon*** welcomes you with a wood-beamed cozy lobby and 32 country-French-cute rooms with air-conditioning and every possible comfort. Fifth-floor rooms have sliver balconies, but sixth-floor rooms have the best views (Sb/Db-€175-215-240, Tb-€200-225-244, price varies by season, highest price is for peak weeks, check website for specials, 19 place du Panthéon, tel. 01 43 54 32 95, fax 01 43 26 64 65, www.hoteldupantheon.com, hoteldupantheon@wanadoo.fr).

$$$ Hôtel des Grands Hommes*** was built to look good — and it does. The lobby is to be admired but not enjoyed, and the 31 rooms reflect an interior designer's dream. Rooms are generally tight but adorable, with great attention to detail and little expense spared. Fifth- and sixth-floor rooms have balconies; sixth-floor balconies, with grand views, are big enough to use. For more luxury, splurge for a suite (Sb/Db-€175-215-240, Db suite-€250-390, price varies by season and week, check website for deals, air-con, 17 place du Panthéon, tel. 01 46 34 19 60, fax 01 43 26 67 32, www.hoteldesgrandshommes.com, reservation@hoteldesgrandshommes.com).

$$ Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles*** is idyllic. A short alley leads to three buildings protecting a flower-filled garden courtyard, preserving a sense of tranquility that is rare in a city this size. Its 51 rooms are reasonably spacious and comfortable, many with large beds. This romantic place is deservedly popular, so call well in advance, though reservations are not accepted more than four months ahead (Db-€110–120, a few bigger rooms-€135, extra bed-€20, parking-€30, 75 rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Mo: Cardinal Lemoine, tel. 01 43 26 79 23, fax 01 43 25 28 15, www.hotel-grandes-ecoles.com, hotel.grandes.ecoles@wanadoo.fr, mellow Marie speaks some English, Maman does not).

$$ Hôtel des 3 Collèges** is a welcoming, well-run place with charm (Db-€90, bigger Db-€114-134, Tb-€150, 16 rue Cujas, tel. 01 43 54 67 30, fax 01 43 34 02 99, www.3colleges.com, hotel@3colleges.com).

$ Hôtel Cluny Sorbonne** issmartlymanaged, a good deal, and conveniently located across from the famous university, just below the Panthéon. Rooms are clean and comfortable with wood furnishings (standard Db-€85, big Db-€100, really big Db-€140, 8 rue Victor Cousin, tel. 01 43 54 66 66, fax 01 43 29 68 07, www.hotel-cluny.fr, cluny@club-internet.fr).

Budget Hotels in Paris

Below is a listing of hotels from about €80 and under. Remember to compare the least expensive listings in the three neighborhoods described above with these before booking.

At the Bottom of Rue Mouffetard

These places are away from the Seine and other tourists, in an appealing work-a-day area. They require a longer walk or Métro ride to sights but often have rooms when other places are booked up. The rue Mouffetard is the bohemian soul of this area, running south from its heart, place de la Contrescarpe, to rue de Bazeilles. Two thousand years ago it was the principal Roman road south to Italy. Today, this small, meandering street has a split personality. The lower half thrives in the daytime as a pedestrian shopping street. The upper half sleeps during the day but comes alive after dark, teeming with bars, restaurants, and nightlife. Use Métro stops Censier-Daubenton or Les Gobelins.

$ Port-Royal-Hôtel* has only one star but don't let that fool you. This 46-room place is polished bottom to top and has been well-run by the same proud family for 67 years. You could eat off the floors of its spotless, comfy rooms. Ask for a room away from the street (S-€39–51, D-€51, big hall showers-€2.50, Db-€75, Tb-€89, no CC, requires cash deposit, climb stairs from rue Pascal to busy boulevard de Port-Royal, 8 boulevard de Port-Royal, Mo: Les Gobelins, tel. 01 43 31 70 06, fax 01 43 31 33 67, www.portroyalhotel.fr.st).

$ Hôtel de l'Espérance** is a solid two-star value. It's quiet, pink, fluffy, and comfortable, with thoughtfully appointed rooms, complete with canopy beds and a flamboyant owner (Sb-€70, Db-€78–86, 15 rue Pascal, Mo: Censier-Daubenton, tel. 01 47 07 10 99, fax 01 43 37 56 19, hotel.esperance@wanadoo.fr).

$ Hôtel de France** is set on a busy street, with adequately comfortable rooms, fair prices, and a charming owner, Madame Margo. The best and quietest rooms are sur le cour (on the courtyard), though streetside rooms are okay (Sb-€66, Db-€76–85, 108 rue Monge, Mo: Censier Daubenton, tel. 01 47 07 19 04, fax 01 43 36 62 34, hotel.de.fce@wanadoo.fr).

Near the Panthéon

For information on the neighborhood, see the Luxembourg Orientation, above.

$ Hôtel de Senlis** is a fair deal, hiding quietly below the Panthéon, with modest rooms, carpeted walls, and metal closets. Most rooms have beamed ceilings, and all rooms could use a decorator with taste (Sb-€69, Db-€74–88, Tb-€95, Qb-€110, 7 rue Malebranche, Mo: Cluny-La Sorbonne, tel. 01 43 29 93 10, fax 01 43 29 00 24, www.hoteldesenlis.fr, hoteldesenlis@wanadoo.fr).

$ Hôtel du Brésil**, one block from Luxembourg Garden, has little character and some smoky rooms but reasonable rates, making it an acceptable choice. New family rooms are planned for 2005 (Sb-€68, Db-€74–85, 10 rue le Goff, RER-B: Luxembourg, tel. 01 43 54 76 11, fax 01 46 33 45 78, www.hoteldubresil.fr, hoteldubresil@wanadoo.fr).

$ Hôtel des Médicis is as cheap, stripped-down, and basic as it gets, with a soiled linoleum charm, a happy owner, and a great location. Request Jim Morrison's old room, if you dare (S-€16, D-€31-35, 214 rue St. Jacques, Mo: Cluny La Sorbonne or RER-B Luxembourg, tel. 01 43 54 14 66, hotelmedicis@aol.com, Denis SE).

$ Hôtel Central*, wedged between two cafés, has a smoky, dingy reception, a steep, slippery stairway, so-so beds, and basic-but-cheery-if-somewhat-mildewed rooms. To an optimist, this hotel defines unpretentiousness; to a pessimist, it's a dive with a charming location. Either way, it's cheap. All rooms have showers, but toilets are down the hall (Ss-€32–37, Ds-€45-50, no CC, no elevator, 6 rue Descartes, Mo: Cardinal Lemoine, tel. 01 46 33 57 93, sweet Pilar NSE).

$ Y&H Hostel is easygoing and English-speaking, with Internet access, kitchen facilities, and basic but acceptable hostel conditions (beds in four-bed rooms-€23, beds in double rooms-€26, includes breakfast, sheets-€2.50, no CC, rooms closed 11:00–16:00 but reception stays open, 2:00 curfew, reservations require deposit, 80 rue Mouffetard, Mo: Place Monge, tel. 01 47 07 47 07, fax 01 47 07 22 24, www.youngandhappy.fr, smile@youngandhappy.fr).

In the Marais

For info rmation on the neighborhood, see the Marais Orientation, above.

$ MIJE Youth Hostels: The Maison Internationale de la Jeunesse et des Etudiants (MIJE) runs three classy old residences, clustered a few blocks south of rue St. Antoine. Each is well-maintained with simple, clean, single-sex, one- to four-bed rooms for travelers of any age. None has an elevator or double beds, each has Internet access, and all rooms have showers. You can stay seven days maximum and prices given are per person and favor single travelers (2 people can find a double in a very simple hotel for similar rates). You can pay more to have your own room, or pay less and room with as many as three others (Sb-€43, Db-€33, Tb-€30, Qb-€28, no CC, includes breakfast but not towels, which you can get from a machine for €9; required membership card-€2.50 extra/person; rooms locked 12:00–15:00 and at 1:00). The hostels are: MIJE Fourcy (€11 dinners available to anyone with a membership card, 6 rue de Fourcy, just south of rue de Rivoli), MIJE Fauconnier (11 rue du Fauconnier), and the best, MIJE Maubisson (12 rue des Barres). They all share the same contact info rmation (tel. 01 42 74 23 45, fax 01 40 27 81 64, www.mije.com) and Métro stop (St. Paul). Reservations are accepted, though you must arrive by noon or call the morning of arrival to confirm a later time.

Near Notre-Dame

$ Hôtel Esmeralda*, built in 1640, is a creaky, musty, no-level-surface, no-straight-lines kind of place with 19 faded rooms. Step into a time tunnel and experience the Paris of starving artists (D-€35, Db-€65-85, Tb-€110, Qb-€120, top floor rooms have Notre-Dame views at no added cost, 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre, Mo: St. Michel, tel. 01 43 54 19 20, fax 01 40 51 00 68).

Sleeping near Canal St. Martin

This is one of Paris' up-and-coming neighborhoods, just north of the Marais between place de la République and Canal St. Martin. The canal is the central feature of this unpretentious area, with pleasing walkways, arching footbridges and occasional boats plying its water. When the weather agrees, the entire neighborhood seems to descend on the canal in late afternoon, filling the cafés, parks, and benches. This neighborhood is convenient to the Gares du Nord and Est (about 15 min on foot) and to the terrific Buttes-Chaumont park. There are no tourist sights around (except the canal). This area is the least touristy of those I list and its hotels are cheaper. For nighttime fun, head over to rue Oberkampf and join the crowd. Use Métro République for these hotels.

$ Hôtel de la République**, a block toward the canal from the place de la R é publique, is a well-run, welcoming place run by gentle Miguel. Rooms are sufficiently comfortable, with good natural light, showers instead of baths, and small balconies on the 5th floor (Sb-€50-61, Db-€60-71, Tb-€70-81, included buffet breakfast with this book, near place de la République, 31 rue Albert Thomas, tel. 01 42 39 19 03, fax 01 42 39 22 66, www.republiquehotel.com).

$ Hôtel Ibis**, barely off the place de la R épublique toward the canal, is a good, if less personal value with air-conditioning and well-kept, white and bright rooms (Db-€79, Fri-Sun Db-€69, extra person-€10, 9 rue Léon Jouhaux, tel. 01 42 40 40 50, fax 01 42 40 11 12, h075@accor-hotels.com).

$ Budget Hôtel /Hostel Beauséjour, is part two-star hotel, part four-beds-per-room hostel (also called the "Absolute Paris"). It's in the thick of this lively area, facing the canal, and filled with younger travelers. The rooms are industrial-strength clean and adequately comfortable (€22 each in 4-bed room with private bathroom, Db-€75, Tb-€90, includes breakfast, 1 rue de la Fontaine du Roi, tel. 01 47 00 47 00, fax 01 47 00 47 02, www.absolute-paris.com).

For Longer Stays

Staying a week or longer? Consider the advantages that come with renting a furnished apartment. Complete with a small, equipped kitchen and living room, this option is great for families. Among the many English-speaking organizations ready to help, the following have proven most reliable. Their websites are generally excellent and essential to understanding your options.

Paris Appartements Services rents studios and one-bedroom apartments in the Opéra, Louvre, and Marais neighborhoods (2 rue d'Argout, tel. 01 40 28 01 28, fax 01 40 28 92 01, www.paris-appartements-services.fr).

BridgeStreet Paris (formerly known as Apalachee Bay) is British-owned and offers an extensive range of carefully selected, furnished apartments (21 rue de Madrid, tel. 01 42 94 13 13, fax 01 42 94 83 01, www.bridgestreet.com).

Locaflat offers accommodations ranging from studios to five-room apartments (63 avenue de la Motte-Picquet, tel. 01 43 06 78 79, fax 01 40 56 99 69, www.locaflat.com).

Lodgis has studios from €400 per week and €900 euros per month (16 rue de la Folie Méricourt, tel. 01 48 07 11 06, www.lodgis.com).

Capitale Partners has studios to five-bedroom apartments (23 rue de la Boétie, Mo: St. Philippe du Roule, tel. 01 42 68 35 60, fax 01 42 68 35 61, www.capitalepartners.com).

Paris Pied-à-Terre is another possibility. It's a small organization with fewer properties, though they have houses in other regions of France (http://www.parispiedaterre.com, wccc@wanadoo.fr).