Sleeping in Arles
Hotels are a great value here; many are air-conditioned, though few have elevators. The Calendal, Musée, Amphithéâtre, and Régence hotels offer exceptional value.
<$$$> Hôtel Calendal**, located between the Roman Arena and Classical Theater, is Provençal chic and does everything right. Its comfortable rooms — some with views overlooking the Arena — surround a large, palm-shaded courtyard. They even have my Provence video on DVD in the lobby. Enjoy the great buffet breakfast (€8), the salad-and-pasta-bar lunch buffet (€14), and the seductive ambience. Price ranges reflect room size (smallest Db-€47, standard Db-€72–85, Db with balcony-€90-100, air-con, free Internet in lobby, reserve ahead for parking-€10, 5 rue Porte de Laure, just above Arena, tel. 04 90 96 11 89, fax 04 90 96 05 84, www.lecalendal.com, contact@lecalendal.com).
<$$$> Hôtel d'Arlatan***, built over the site of a Roman basilica, is classy in every sense of the word. It has sumptuous public spaces, a tranquil terrace, a designer pool, a turtle pond, and antique-filled rooms, most with high, wood-beamed ceilings and stone walls. In the lobby of this 15th-century building, a glass floor looks down into Roman ruins (smallest Db-€90, standard Db-€105-120, bigger Db-€120-155, Db/Qb suites-€180–250, excellent buffet breakfast-€11, air-con, bathrobes, ice machines, elevator, parking-€11, 26 rue Sauvage, 1 block below place du Forum, tel. 04 90 93 56 66, fax 04 90 49 68 45, www.hotel-arlatan.fr, hotel-arlatan@wanadoo.fr, contact@hotel-arlatan.fr).
<$$> Hôtel du Musée**, a quiet, delightful manor-home hideaway, has 28 comfortable, air-conditioned rooms, a flowery two-tiered courtyard, and a snazzy art-gallery lounge. The rooms in the new section are worth the few extra euros and steps. Claude and English-speaking Laurence are gracious owners. The price ranges listed are for rooms in the old (lower rates) or new building (Sb-€43–50, Db-€55–65, Tb-€65-80, Qb-€85, buffet breakfast-€7, parking-€7, 11 rue du Grand Prieuré, follow signs to Réattu Museum, tel. 04 90 93 88 88, fax 04 90 49 98 15, www.hoteldumusee.com.fr, contact@hoteldumusee.com.fr).
<$$> Hôtel de l'Amphithéâtre**, a carefully decorated boutique hotel, is just steps from the Roman Arena. Public spaces are sharp, with a museum quality. The Belvedere room (€150) has the best view over Arles I've seen. Rooms in the older building (#5) are cheaper, but musty and basic (Db in old building-€49-59, Db in new building-€59-72, superior Db-€85, Tb-€97, Qb-€130, air-con, Internet in lobby, parking-€5, 5 rue Diderot, 1 block from Arena, tel. 04 90 96 10 30, fax 04 90 93 98 69, www.hotelamphitheatre.fr, contact@hotelamphitheatre.fr, helpful Fabrice and Denis).
<$$> Hôtel de la Muette**, with eager-to-please owners (Brigitte and Alain), is a good choice when the hotels listed above are full. Located in a quiet corner of Arles, this hotel is well-kept, with stone walls, wood beams, and air-conditioning (Db-€48-65, Tb-€65-70, Qb-€80, buffet breakfast-€8, no elevator, Internet in lobby, 15 rue de Suisses, tel. 04 90 96 15 39, fax 04 90 49 73 16, www.hotel-muette.com, hotel.muette@wanadoo.fr).
<$$> Maison d'Hôtes en Provence, run by engaging American Madeleine and her soft-spoken French husband Eric, combines an interesting B&B experience — four spacious and funky-but-comfy rooms — with optional Provençal cooking workshops. Foodies should check out their Web site for its affordable range of gourmet classes (Db-€65, extra person-€15, good family room, across from launderette at 11 rue Portagnel, tel. & fax 04 90 49 69 20, www.cuisineprovencale.com, actvedel@wanadoo.fr).
<$> Hôtel Régence**, one of the best deals in Arles, has a riverfront location, immaculate and comfortable rooms, good beds, safe parking, and easy access to the train station (Db-€40-50, Tb-€50-60, Qb-€60-67, excellent buffet breakfast-€5, choose river view or quieter courtyard rooms, most with shower instead of bathtub, air-con, no elevator but only 2 floors, Internet in lobby, 5 rue Marius Jouveau, from place Lamartine turn right immediately after passing between towers, tel. 04 90 96 39 85, fax 04 90 96 67 64, www.hotel-regence.com, contact@hotel-regence.com, the gentle Nouvions speak some English).
<$> Hôtel Acacias**, just off place Lamartine and inside the old city walls, is a modern, pastel paradise, with smallish, reasonably priced rooms with all the comforts (Sb or Db-€46–55, larger Db-€62-71, extra bed-€15, buffet breakfast-€6, air-con, elevator, 1 rue Marius Jouveau, tel. 04 90 96 37 88, fax 04 90 96 32 51, www.hotel-acacias.com, contact@hotel-acacias.com, Christophe and Sylvie).
<$> Hôtel le Cloître**, originally the cloister prevost's residence, has 30 light, airy, mostly big rooms with white stone walls and tile floors, but no air-conditioning and no elevator. First-floor rooms are larger, while some on the second floor have a view over the cloisters. Caring owners Jean-François and Agnes both speak English and have worked hard to restore this place — ask to see the photos (Ss or Ds-€40, Sb or Db-€47, bigger Db-€60-65, Tb-€65, Qb-€75, breakfast-€6, parking-€5, closed Nov-mid-March, 16 rue du Cloître, tel. 04 90 96 29 50, fax 04 90 96 02 88, www.hotelcloitre.com, hotel_cloitre@hotmail.com).
<$> Hôtel Voltaire* rents 12 small and spartan rooms with ceiling fans and nifty balconies overlooking a caffeine-stained square. A block below the Arena, it's perfect for starving artists. Smiling owner Mr. Ferran (fur-ran) loves the States (his dream is to travel there), and hopes you'll add to his postcard collection. He also serves daily lunch and dinner; (D-€28, Ds-€30, Db-€38, 1 place Voltaire, tel. 04 90 96 49 18, fax 04 90 96 45 49, levoltaire@aol.com).