Eating in Avignon
Skip the overpriced places on place de l'Horloge (Les Domaines and La Civette near the carousel are the least of evils here) and find a more intimate location for your dinner. Avignon has many delightful squares filled with tables ready to seat you.
Near the Church of St. Pierre
This church has enclosed squares on both sides, offering outdoor yet intimate ambience.
L'Epicerie is charmingly located and popular, with the highest-quality cuisine around St. Pierre church, including a good selection of à la carte items (€20 main dishes, closed Sun, cozy interior good in bad weather, 10 place St. Pierre, tel. 04 90 82 74 22).
Pass under the arch by L'Epicerie restaurant and enter enchanting place des Châtaignes, filled with the tables of four restaurants: Crêperie du Cloître (big salad and main-course crêpe for about €13, closed Sun–Mon); Restaurant la Goulette (Tunisian specialties, tagine or couscous-€17, closed Mon); Restaurant Nem tucked in the corner of the square (Vietnamese, family-run, menus from €10); and Pause Gourmande (lunch only, plats du jour-€7, always a veggie choice).
Crillon Square (Place Crillon)
This large, open square just off the river provides more atmosphere than quality. Several cafés offer inexpensive bistro fare with menus from €14, plats from €12, and many tables to choose from. Restaurant les Artistes is one of several (daily, 21 place Crillon, tel. 04 90 82 23 54).
Elsewhere in Avignon
Bistro des Arts, with a colorful interior and pleasant (but sometimes slow) service, is a good choice for Provençal dishes (24 rue des Lices, tel. 04 90 85 67 21).
La Crêperie du Figuier has good crêpes and salads that won't break the bank (dinner crêpe or salad for €11, closed Sun, 3 rue du Figuier, tel. 04 90 82 60 67).
At La Piedoie, a few blocks northeast of the TI, owner-chef Thierry Piedoie serves fine traditional and Provençal dishes in an intimate, elegant setting (€36 menu,interior seating only, 26 rue des Trois Faucons, tel. 04 90 86 51 53).
Le Caveau du Théâtre is the antithesis of its neighbor, La Piedoie, with wild posters decorating a carefree interior. Wine and good-value dishes are the specialties (€13 plats, €18 menus, fun ambience for free, closed Sun, 16 rue des Trois Faucons, tel. 04 90 82 60 91).
L'Empreinte is good for North African cuisine in a trendy location (copious couscous for €11–16, take-out and veggie options available, daily, 33 rue des Teinturiers, tel. 04 32 76 31 84).
Hôtel la Mirande is the ultimate Avignon splurge. Reserve ahead here for understated elegance and Avignon's top cuisine (€28 lunch menu, €50 dinner menu, €85 tasting menu, closed Tue-Wed, behind Palace of the Popes, 4 place de la Mirande, tel. 04 90 86 93 93, fax 04 90 86 26 85).